LIVE from the Camino @Denmanmurphy on the Torres

[Denmanmurphy]

We started in Salamanca a week ago and thought we’d add an overview of our experiences so far to this thread.
Firstly we have to acknowledge the invaluable caminotorres.com website and the WikiLocs navigation… brilliant, thank you so much Luis Quintales. Also to whoever put/painted the old and new arrows along the way - Muchas Gracias!!
And also all of the insights in this thread and on the Camino Torres Facebook group have been so helpful. It’s very hot and dry out here and there is hardly any water flowing in the rivers/stream - so no precarious water crossings so far!!

Day 1 - La Rad
Appreciate of this option off the Camino, (pre-booked) great staff at hotel, gas station shop (Servo for us Australians!) has everything you need for supplies next day, even baked fresh bread at 7 in the morning. Got lucky with flamenco music concert set up outside that night … starting at 10.30pm of course!! Bar open early for breakfast.

Day 2 - Robliza de Cojos
WhatsApp-ed Cristina the day before to let her know we are coming. Texted when we arrived - she was fantastic. Basic albergue, everything you need, blankets .. big backyard. Great store “Arcophorum” (not on the map) run by very helpful woman - was open in the late afternoon. Bar at municipal swimming pool was able to make us a meal - After our swim!

Day 3 - San Munoz
WhatsApp-ed Amalia the day before to let her know we are coming. Beers at Bar Chan on arrival in village - run by the lovely Fernando. Organised to have evening meal there later. Prudencia (Amalias sister) met us at Albergue - great kitchen set-up, bedroom to ourselves, Ukrainian family still living there but were away for a few days. Later Prudencia took us for a tour of the town - inside the church, around plaza and down to the river where there is a huge community garden (supplied us with salad for the next day!) Introduced us to everybody - Pilgrims still a novelty on this route!

Day 4 - Alba de Yetes
WhatsApp-ed Aurora the day before to let her know we are coming. Albergue is lovely and Aurora takes great care and attention of us pilgrims. Invites us to play Pétanque at 6.30pm!! Bar Nilo in town open for a drink but again all the action is at the municipal swimming pool! Dinner available and bocadillo organised for next day.


Day 5/6 - Ciudad Rodrigo
Too early for services in Boccarra. Well supplied from bar last night. Stayed at Hostal Parque Florida (great breakfast!) just outside wall - close to Physio and Centro de Salud (both provided excellent much needed medical intervention -?we’re blaming recently finishing the Primitivo!!). Spent 2 nights here to recuperate… well worth it, beautiful city and a lot to explore.

Day 7 - Gallegos de Arganan
Hard to leave Ciudad Rodrigo - although shortish walk to Gallegos. Went to Ayuntamiento to get key - a few phone calls and we were on our way. Building still mid-renovation so a bit of a building site. Albergue downstairs very basic, new beds and blankets though and plenty of space. Shop down road for all supplies.
Off to the municipal swimming pool again for dinner !!

Day 8 - Aldea del Obispo
Had WhatsApp-ed Felipe night before. Late start - another short day due to not being able to get accommodation in Almeida (it’s their Fiesta weekend!!) . Cafe Bar Arroyo open for a coffee and the owner insisted on giving us a sello… best one yet!
Stopped by a finca 3km out of Aldea and elderly couple invited us over and we left with 2 melons… weighing approx 2kg each.!!!! Felipe found us having our arrival beer at the bar and escorted us to the magnificent Albergue. Sheets, towels, blankets and an incredible kitchen! All for 10€. There is a local worker currently living here too - although he’s away this weekend. Dinner in tonight. Great little supermercado past Manalo Bar near edge of town.

 

[DTCamino]

We started in Salamanca a week ago and thought we’d add an overview of our experiences so far to this thread.
Firstly we have to acknowledge the invaluable caminotorres.com website and the WikiLocs navigation… brilliant, thank you so much Luis Quintales. Also to whoever put/painted the old and new arrows along the way - Muchas Gracias!!
And also all of the insights in this thread and on the Camino Torres Facebook group have been so helpful. It’s very hot and dry out here and there is hardly any water flowing in the rivers/stream - so no precarious water crossings so far!!

Day 1 - La Rad
Appreciate of this option off the Camino, (pre-booked) great staff at hotel, gas station shop (Servo for us Australians!) has everything you need for supplies next day, even baked fresh bread at 7 in the morning. Got lucky with flamenco music concert set up outside that night … starting at 10.30pm of course!! Bar open early for breakfast.

Day 2 - Robliza de Cojos
WhatsApp-ed Cristina the day before to let her know we are coming. Texted when we arrived - she was fantastic. Basic albergue, everything you need, blankets .. big backyard. Great store “Arcophorum” (not on the map) run by very helpful woman - was open in the late afternoon. Bar at municipal swimming pool was able to make us a meal - After our swim!

Day 3 - San Munoz
WhatsApp-ed Amalia the day before to let her know we are coming. Beers at Bar Chan on arrival in village - run by the lovely Fernando. Organised to have evening meal there later. Prudencia (Amalias sister) met us at Albergue - great kitchen set-up, bedroom to ourselves, Ukrainian family still living there but were away for a few days. Later Prudencia took us for a tour of the town - inside the church, around plaza and down to the river where there is a huge community garden (supplied us with salad for the next day!) Introduced us to everybody - Pilgrims still a novelty on this route!

Day 4 - Alba de Yetes
WhatsApp-ed Aurora the day before to let her know we are coming. Albergue is lovely and Aurora takes great care and attention of us pilgrims. Invites us to play Pétanque at 6.30pm!! Bar Nilo in town open for a drink but again all the action is at the municipal swimming pool! Dinner available and bocadillo organised for next day.


Day 5/6 - Ciudad Rodrigo
Too early for services in Boccarra. Well supplied from bar last night. Stayed at Hostal Parque Florida (great breakfast!) just outside wall - close to Physio and Centro de Salud (both provided excellent much needed medical intervention -?we’re blaming recently finishing the Primitivo!!). Spent 2 nights here to recuperate… well worth it, beautiful city and a lot to explore.

Day 7 - Gallegos de Arganan
Hard to leave Ciudad Rodrigo - although shortish walk to Gallegos. Went to Ayuntamiento to get key - a few phone calls and we were on our way. Building still mid-renovation so a bit of a building site. Albergue downstairs very basic, new beds and blankets though and plenty of space. Shop down road for all supplies.
Off to the municipal swimming pool again for dinner !!

Day 8 - Aldea del Obispo
Had WhatsApp-ed Felipe night before. Late start - another short day due to not being able to get accommodation in Almeida (it’s their Fiesta weekend!!) . Cafe Bar Arroyo open for a coffee and the owner insisted on giving us a sello… best one yet!
Stopped by a finca 3km out of Aldea and elderly couple invited us over and we left with 2 melons… weighing approx 2kg each.!!!! Felipe found us having our arrival beer at the bar and escorted us to the magnificent Albergue. Sheets, towels, blankets and an incredible kitchen! All for 10€. There is a local worker currently living here too - although he’s away this weekend. Dinner in tonight. Great little supermercado past Manalo Bar near edge of town.

What has the path been like so far; is there a lot of concrete road walking or mostly dirt paths ??

Muchas gracias y Buen Camino!

 

[Denmanmurphy]

Minimal road walking, rough tracks at times, gravels roads a real mix. Very very very quiet!!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Lovely report. I walked in early September 2022 and had great weather, no watercrossings (spring accounts talk about the potential of a LOT of water!).

What has the path been like so far; is there a lot of concrete road walking or mostly dirt paths ?

The Torres has very little asphalt until you reach Trancoso, and then it starts in earnest. Lots of road walking till Braga. But all on very untraveled roads. And if you get on the Geira in Braga, the asphalt decreases once again and it is pretty spectacular.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Wow @Denmanmurphy what a great review. I’ll be following your footsteps in just over a week so this info is perrrrrrfect.
I’ll be heading to Braga then crossing to the Geira.
What are your plans from there ?

 

[David Tallan]

Thanks for sharing! I'll be walking the same route at the beginning of November, so I'll be every interested in your current reports. Unfortunately, I don't think I can count on the weather being equally dry.

 

[Gailerart]

We started in Salamanca a week ago and thought we’d add an overview of our experiences so far to this thread.
Firstly we have to acknowledge the invaluable caminotorres.com website and the WikiLocs navigation… brilliant, thank you so much Luis Quintales. Also to whoever put/painted the old and new arrows along the way - Muchas Gracias!!
And also all of the insights in this thread and on the Camino Torres Facebook group have been so helpful. It’s very hot and dry out here and there is hardly any water flowing in the rivers/stream - so no precarious water crossings so far!!

Day 1 - La Rad
Appreciate of this option off the Camino, (pre-booked) great staff at hotel, gas station shop (Servo for us Australians!) has everything you need for supplies next day, even baked fresh bread at 7 in the morning. Got lucky with flamenco music concert set up outside that night … starting at 10.30pm of course!! Bar open early for breakfast.

Day 2 - Robliza de Cojos
WhatsApp-ed Cristina the day before to let her know we are coming. Texted when we arrived - she was fantastic. Basic albergue, everything you need, blankets .. big backyard. Great store “Arcophorum” (not on the map) run by very helpful woman - was open in the late afternoon. Bar at municipal swimming pool was able to make us a meal - After our swim!

Day 3 - San Munoz
WhatsApp-ed Amalia the day before to let her know we are coming. Beers at Bar Chan on arrival in village - run by the lovely Fernando. Organised to have evening meal there later. Prudencia (Amalias sister) met us at Albergue - great kitchen set-up, bedroom to ourselves, Ukrainian family still living there but were away for a few days. Later Prudencia took us for a tour of the town - inside the church, around plaza and down to the river where there is a huge community garden (supplied us with salad for the next day!) Introduced us to everybody - Pilgrims still a novelty on this route!

Day 4 - Alba de Yetes
WhatsApp-ed Aurora the day before to let her know we are coming. Albergue is lovely and Aurora takes great care and attention of us pilgrims. Invites us to play Pétanque at 6.30pm!! Bar Nilo in town open for a drink but again all the action is at the municipal swimming pool! Dinner available and bocadillo organised for next day.


Day 5/6 - Ciudad Rodrigo
Too early for services in Boccarra. Well supplied from bar last night. Stayed at Hostal Parque Florida (great breakfast!) just outside wall - close to Physio and Centro de Salud (both provided excellent much needed medical intervention -?we’re blaming recently finishing the Primitivo!!). Spent 2 nights here to recuperate… well worth it, beautiful city and a lot to explore.

Day 7 - Gallegos de Arganan
Hard to leave Ciudad Rodrigo - although shortish walk to Gallegos. Went to Ayuntamiento to get key - a few phone calls and we were on our way. Building still mid-renovation so a bit of a building site. Albergue downstairs very basic, new beds and blankets though and plenty of space. Shop down road for all supplies.
Off to the municipal swimming pool again for dinner !!

Day 8 - Aldea del Obispo
Had WhatsApp-ed Felipe night before. Late start - another short day due to not being able to get accommodation in Almeida (it’s their Fiesta weekend!!) . Cafe Bar Arroyo open for a coffee and the owner insisted on giving us a sello… best one yet!
Stopped by a finca 3km out of Aldea and elderly couple invited us over and we left with 2 melons… weighing approx 2kg each.!!!! Felipe found us having our arrival beer at the bar and escorted us to the magnificent Albergue. Sheets, towels, blankets and an incredible kitchen! All for 10€. There is a local worker currently living here too - although he’s away this weekend. Dinner in tonight. Great little supermercado past Manalo Bar near edge of town.

We started in Salamanca a week ago and thought we’d add an overview of our experiences so far to this thread.
Firstly we have to acknowledge the invaluable caminotorres.com website and the WikiLocs navigation… brilliant, thank you so much Luis Quintales. Also to whoever put/painted the old and new arrows along the way - Muchas Gracias!!
And also all of the insights in this thread and on the Camino Torres Facebook group have been so helpful. It’s very hot and dry out here and there is hardly any water flowing in the rivers/stream - so no precarious water crossings so far!!

Day 1 - La Rad
Appreciate of this option off the Camino, (pre-booked) great staff at hotel, gas station shop (Servo for us Australians!) has everything you need for supplies next day, even baked fresh bread at 7 in the morning. Got lucky with flamenco music concert set up outside that night … starting at 10.30pm of course!! Bar open early for breakfast.

Day 2 - Robliza de Cojos
WhatsApp-ed Cristina the day before to let her know we are coming. Texted when we arrived - she was fantastic. Basic albergue, everything you need, blankets .. big backyard. Great store “Arcophorum” (not on the map) run by very helpful woman - was open in the late afternoon. Bar at municipal swimming pool was able to make us a meal - After our swim!

Day 3 - San Munoz
WhatsApp-ed Amalia the day before to let her know we are coming. Beers at Bar Chan on arrival in village - run by the lovely Fernando. Organised to have evening meal there later. Prudencia (Amalias sister) met us at Albergue - great kitchen set-up, bedroom to ourselves, Ukrainian family still living there but were away for a few days. Later Prudencia took us for a tour of the town - inside the church, around plaza and down to the river where there is a huge community garden (supplied us with salad for the next day!) Introduced us to everybody - Pilgrims still a novelty on this route!

Day 4 - Alba de Yetes
WhatsApp-ed Aurora the day before to let her know we are coming. Albergue is lovely and Aurora takes great care and attention of us pilgrims. Invites us to play Pétanque at 6.30pm!! Bar Nilo in town open for a drink but again all the action is at the municipal swimming pool! Dinner available and bocadillo organised for next day.


Day 5/6 - Ciudad Rodrigo
Too early for services in Boccarra. Well supplied from bar last night. Stayed at Hostal Parque Florida (great breakfast!) just outside wall - close to Physio and Centro de Salud (both provided excellent much needed medical intervention -?we’re blaming recently finishing the Primitivo!!). Spent 2 nights here to recuperate… well worth it, beautiful city and a lot to explore.

Day 7 - Gallegos de Arganan
Hard to leave Ciudad Rodrigo - although shortish walk to Gallegos. Went to Ayuntamiento to get key - a few phone calls and we were on our way. Building still mid-renovation so a bit of a building site. Albergue downstairs very basic, new beds and blankets though and plenty of space. Shop down road for all supplies.
Off to the municipal swimming pool again for dinner !!

Day 8 - Aldea del Obispo
Had WhatsApp-ed Felipe night before. Late start - another short day due to not being able to get accommodation in Almeida (it’s their Fiesta weekend!!) . Cafe Bar Arroyo open for a coffee and the owner insisted on giving us a sello… best one yet!
Stopped by a finca 3km out of Aldea and elderly couple invited us over and we left with 2 melons… weighing approx 2kg each.!!!! Felipe found us having our arrival beer at the bar and escorted us to the magnificent Albergue. Sheets, towels, blankets and an incredible kitchen! All for 10€. There is a local worker currently living here too - although he’s away this weekend. Dinner in tonight. Great little supermercado past Manalo Bar near edge of town.

Hi DenmanMurphy
Please keep up the weekly reports. I'm trying to choose a route or routes for 2026 and the Torres looks like it could be the one. Hadn't heard of this route before but always wondered why Guimaraes and Amarante had brass scallops on the footpath, after visiting these wonderful towns last year after completing the Primitivo with my wife. This year I completed the Invierno, the Finisterre-Muxia, the San Salvador and Primitivo as a combo, so no stranger to hard and solitary hiking (I'm an Aussie too)
Looking forward to your posts

 

[chinalil]

What a wonderful post! Brought back many memories for me! Don’t forget to overnight in the fire stations otw! I had a ball! They just need to b contacted at least one day b4 hand. Buen Camino

 

[AlanSykes]

I don't think I can count on the weather being equally dry.

The first time I walked the Torres, in late November 2017, not a drop of rain fell on me between Salamanca and Peso da Régua. At Peso I detoured onto the Caminho Portugués del Interior, and crossed the border into Spain in something very like a blizzard.

 

[Denmanmurphy]

What a wonderful post! Brought back many memories for me! Don’t forget to overnight in the fire stations otw! I had a ball! They just need to b contacted at least one day b4 hand. Buen Camino

Staying at Fire Station tonight - Got lucky because no accommodation available in Pinhel - got great help when I phoned the tourist office yesterday… and they suggested Bombeiros.

 

[Denmanmurphy]

Thanks everyone for your interest/reply’s… I’ll do another report at the end of this week.

 

[peregrina2000]

Staying at Fire Station tonight - Got lucky because no accommodation available in Pinhel - got great help when I phoned the tourist office yesterday… and they suggested Bombeiros.

So glad you are finding places with the Bombeiros. I didn’t know they were still welcoming pilgrims. In Pinhel I stayed at a very nice little B&B on the main square, Casa da Praça. Just adding this for those who may be interested in alternatives to the Bombeiros. And right across the square is a very good restaurant!

Bom caminho!

 

[Denmanmurphy]

Continuing on the Torres - getting used to …. relying on WikiLocs, .. long distances between services, staying in private accommodation… But miss the albergue world!!

Day 9 - Almieda
Late start - only doing 12 km. Crossing into Portugal today - Lovely stop at Cafe a Forja in Vale de Mula. Almeida on last day of it’s month long historical festival - so town was full of markets, pageantry and exhibitions. Beautiful walled city worth spending time here to explore. Stayed in a basic hotel on edge of town - on Camino.

Day 10 - Pinhel
23km day - walked to Vale Verde and tried our luck at the grocery store to get a drink - thought it was closed but owner came out and insisted on making us a coffee for his own kitchen. On to O Pereiro where the famous Dona Maria Julieta looked after us in her cafe. Feeling very spoilt today. To top it all off we couldn’t get accommodation in Pinhel so on the advice of the tourist information Centre stayed at the Bombieros.

Day 11 - Trancoso
Left early - 31km day. First stop Cafe Zita in Valbom. No other services for rest of the day. We always carry the obligatory can of tuna, bread, fruit, nuts, chocolate! Passed through some very quiet villages - went off track and ended up climbing a few fences to get back on route. Long climb up to town toward the the castle. Stayed in private accommodation right in centre. Many businesses closed for a rest after busy tourist season?? Ate at Mercearia do Fardinho in main square who are keen supporters of the Camino. Contacted Albergue in Biera Valente to ask about staying in 2 days time.

Day 12 - Sernancelhe
27km - Out early expecting to get a coffee somewhere along the way - Nothing open or available in the next 3 villages, a good reminder to not rely on anything being open on this Camino!! Pine forests dominated today - with the occasional chestnut trees! Sernancelhe was very quiet - few cafes and restaurants open. Can recommend Tasquina Do Mario. Private accommodation up near the castle.

Day 13 - Beira Valente
23km day. First 4km to Vila da Ponte for breakfast on River Tavora before a big climb up towards “A Nossa Senhora das Neccesidades” . Moved through many quiet villages - all merging together. Shop at the big Intermarche supermarket on edge of Moimenta da Breira for food to cook tonight. Albergue is absolutely fantastic - towels, blankets, great kitchen, beautiful location. Make sure you ask about how to get the keys!!

Day 14 - Lamego
First really cold morning! Surrounded apple orchards - picking seasoning in full flight. Rest stop at Granje Nova for coffee at Cafe Central for authentic Portuguese experience! Even charged my unreliable phone for me. Medieval bridge and tower at Ucanha also worth a stop - it’s a slow 27km today! Plenty of uphill in the last 2 hours - and delightful bridge into the old city with a quick stop at a traditional barber for a beard trim.. ( not me!) Happened to be last weekend of Lanego’s 3 week festival so we were lucky to find ourselves in the right place at the right time. The town was buzzing! Found the best Caldo Verde too.

Day 15 - Peso da Regua
Short 12km day to break up this stage. Out amongst the grapevines - lots of picking going on. Passed through a few villages and Sande - nothing open(?) - crossover with Portuguese Central Camino…. Didn’t see anyone, in fact haven’t seen another pilgrim the whole time. The metropolis of Peso da Regua was a long slow downhill. It’s a river cruise / campervan stop-over so the place was heaving with tourists!

 

[peregrina2000]

@Denmanmurphy,
I took the liberty of merging your two threads. We have such little current information on the Torres, and it is so much easier for us to follow along if you have your whole live Camino on one thread. Hope that’s ok with you, this is great info!

Your thread brings back so many memories — did you climb up to the top of the hill to the church in Lamego? I remember the main drag that goes to the bottom of the hill was just lined with stores selling lots of local pastries!

Albergue is absolutely fantastic - towels, blankets, great kitchen, beautiful location. Make sure you ask about how to get the keys!!

I had a totally hysterical phone call with the poor man on the other end trying to explain to me where to find the keys. There was one important word that I just couldn’t figure out (my Portuguese is pretty basic, and even worse on the phone). I confess that last year a distraught pilgrim who couldn’t understand the person on the other end whatsapped me, and since I was sure of the person’s bona fides, I did reveal the secret hiding place. Do you speak good enough Portuguese to understand the directions of how to find the key?

 

[Denmanmurphy]

@Denmanmurphy,
I took the liberty of merging your two threads. We have such little current information on the Torres, and it is so much easier for us to follow along if you have your whole live Camino on one thread. Hope that’s ok with you, this is great info!

Your thread brings back so many memories — did you climb up to the top of the hill to the church in Lamego? I remember the main drag that goes to the bottom of the hill was just lined with stores selling lots of local pastries!



I had a totally hysterical phone call with the poor man on the other end trying to explain to me where to find the keys. There was one important word that I just couldn’t figure out (my Portuguese is pretty basic, and even worse on the phone). I confess that last year a distraught pilgrim who couldn’t understand the person on the other end whatsapped me, and since I was sure of the person’s bona fides, I did reveal the secret hiding place. Do you speak good enough Portuguese to understand the directions of how to find the key?

Sounds like the phone call we had too - although i managed to understand the word bench!! Our Portuguese is terrible - the Portuguese people are very forgiving!
No problem about merging threads - whatever us most helpful to others.
Didn’t get to go up to church in Lamego - it was all blocked off with a stage … and getting prepared for the pilgrimage to the top that was happening the next day.

 

[peregrina2000]

although i managed to understand the word bench!

OMG, the hiding place has changed. Though I don’t want to reveal state secrets, the word I couldn’t figure out was buraco.

 

[peregrina2000]

Didn’t get to go up to church in Lamego - it was all blocked off with a stage

Hope you at least managed to sample some of those pastries along the street. If not, don’t worry, you’ve got plenty more opportunities. The town of Amarante sticks out in my mind as having a sweet tooth above the already very high Portuguese average!

 

[David Tallan]

OMG, the hiding place has changed. Though I don’t want to reveal state secrets, the word I couldn’t figure out was buraco.

Well, my Portuguese extends about as far as obrigado and carimbo. When I get there in November, hopefully one of you can share the hiding place with my by Forum DM or WhatsApp.