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LIVE from the Camino First meal in Spain

I’ve spoken about my eating habits and I try to stick with it. My lunch today is a good example. But, situations present themselves where a deviation is appropriate. Today is Saturday, the beautiful church of San Saturnino is less than 100 paces away. As I approached, a lovely lady appeared, I asked “A que hora is Misa?” She said tomorrow at 11:00. Seeing my disappointment, she offered me a pear in consolation. I will eat the pear in her honor.
Buen Camino
 

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What’s the availability of accommodation like on the Frances at the moment? I’m starting in Sjdp on 22 September. Are many places closed?
 
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Peter1 said:
What’s the availability of accommodation like on the Frances at the moment? I’m starting in Sjdp on 22 September. Are many places closed?
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It’s not that many are closed it’s the restricted number of beds. Yesterday at Ventosa the dorm room I was in had five beds available but only two could be used. Also, when you do find a bed, it likely to be outside a scheduled stage and more expensive.
A few pilgrims have booked through a travel company all the way into SDC following a set number of stages. What’s happened is they find they either aren’t fit enough, or get injured trying to make the room. I’ve been booking ahead about every three days.
Buen Camino.
 
I am in Najera tonight and hope to meet Reb tomorrow. She will not be at the Peaceable Kingdom when I pass through Moratinos.
I’ve noticed, and in a way, that Forum members recognize my name emblazoned on my pack “@ARN” and they either seek me out, or stumble upon me for dinner, a rest stop or … well because. Our exchanges may be about: distance and route difficulty, treating blisters (I have one), locations to stay, can I take a taxi or bus and still be a true pilgrim.
My response remains the same, this is your Camino. If it requires a pack with more than is recommended, a stop that’s unexpected or a transport not intended, that is your Camino.
Buen Camino pilgrims
Arn
 

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Hi Arn,
My husband Phil is ahead of you in Hontanas and has not had any trouble finding a bed. He has not been making reservations ahead, but may call ahead if he sees limited beds on the Gronze website in any of the towns coming up where he wants to stay. He will be the hospitalero Sept 16-30 in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos at the donativo albergue and then finish walking to Santiago when he's done. Sorry to hear about your blister.
Janet
 
Arn said:
It surfaced during the thunderstorm trek up the Alto de Perdon. I stopped and changed out my socks but it wasn’t enough. Drat!
Click to expand...
Bummer! Drain it like Davebugg suggests, but do not thread it. Afterward, cover it to protect it for a couple of days. I personally like compeed or even duct tape, others dislike it, but I've only had hotspots I've used it on.
 
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Blisters are not necessary but they happen. Hope to meet Phil.
 
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Buen Camino Peregrino Arn ! I will start from SJPDP on Sept 17th.
 
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Arn said:
Not sure if I remember correctly but have they always charged to enter the Cathedral in Calzada?
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Yes as I recall
 
The number of pilgrims appear to be growing. Water is plentiful. I suggest to add Aqua-erius to your water. Spanish Gatorade. Replenishes your electrolytes. Also, I’ve seen some remarkable modes of moving gear beyond the taxis. One French couple is pulling a wheeled travois. A photographer is pushing about 30kg of equipment. And, a young Spanish girl is walking from Barcelona with her dog. She had two but one developed a pad injury.
And, in keeping with the food train that started this thread; I passed a candy store in Sto Domingo de la Calzada. Life is good.
Lastly, I’m still retracing my 2008 Camino. The next few stages into Burgos get interesting.
 

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Had my first Menu del Peregrino tonight. Why, because the options listed exactly what I wanted, including a fantastic garlic soup as a starter. Ham and eggs, Flan and a 1/2 bottle of vinotinto. 11€.
 

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Arn said:
Garlic soup has super benefits, I still didn’t eat the fries, nor the pan.
Basically, only eat one meal a day and I am not hungry till dinner.
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Amazing, Arn, you are so disciplined. I eat a lot of garlic at home and use it in many ways. I just need a day before I go out in public after ingesting it. Not sure I could bypass the Spanish pan though...more important than their fries to me.
 
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Arn said:
Had my first Menu del Peregrino tonight. Why, because the options listed exactly what I wanted, including a fantastic garlic soup as a starter. Ham and eggs, Flan and a 1/2 bottle of vinotinto. 11€.
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Arn,
That garlic soup looks great and the price of 11€ for 3 good courses and wine seems reasonable.
 
mspath said:
Arn,
That garlic soup looks great and the price of 11€ for 3 good courses and wine seems reasonable.
Click to expand...
It sure did look great. I thought his menu sounded more "gourmet" than most Pilgrim or Del dia meals offered on the Frances. I still enjoyed them all as nothing beats having a hot meal on the Camino, no matter what is being served...well most anything.
 
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Arn said:
I make it at home, especially during Lent. I like a lot of garlic.
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I use a lot of garlic at home, mostly in Italian pastas and Thai stir fry cooking. I also often make garlic dip so hot it burns your mouth and throat. It produces a very strong flavor and a love/hate reaction going down my throat...garlic is healthy.
 
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Arn said:
Garlic soup has super benefits,
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Absolutely.
Arn said:
I still didn’t eat the fries, nor the pan.
Click to expand...
Generally, I only eat these when I'm hiking or on my occasional "cheat days". Fewer of these than I once wanted.
Arn said:
Basically, only eat one meal a day and I am not hungry till dinner.
Click to expand...
Usually the same ; except if my current food regimen fails to provide.

But then, my cravings usually tell me what I need extra and beyond.
 
Just a thought as I start out this morning. Since SJPDD where you meet other pilgrims, possibly for the first time, the grouping and the culling begins. At following points, whether a bar for tea, a cerveza at noon, or your stop for the day, you begin to search out familiar faces, trade stories and ask for some missing. Why are they missing? An injury, change in projected stop, walking faster or slower. And, then it happens, after your long day you stop, clean up, in my case take a nap and wait for dinner time. The Dinner time bell is like a moth to a flame. A group begins to form and it contains many you haven’t seen in days. The two German students, the young Danish girl who wondered earlier if being alone was a good thing, the American nurse that seems to appear out of nowhere when someone is injured, another German businessman who says he’s escaping the rat race flanked by a Danish businessman contemplating starting his third construction company. The Malay student has a job offer in Sweden and two locals from this village are wondering how that happened. So, this morning with my tea I bid Buen Camino to the Spanish gentleman walking to SDC in company with his dog. A new circle of friends and I’m reminded how much I miss my best friend, and service dog Raider.
 

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So I check in to a really well resurrected casa quaint on the outside and well appointed on the inside. Bunks and comfort station minimalist in design, space the consideration. As I checked in, over the owners shoulder, I spied a bottle of Bockwurst. Do I or don’t I?
I did, they were the worst wurst I’ve had in a long time. Ate one, donated the rest to the common larder. Three Germans just arrived. They bought two bottles.
 

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VNwalking said:
Haha, Arn. To you, maybe.
Find the complementary pilgrim and both of you get double helpings. I'll take your pan y ensallada, you can have my carne y vino. But hands off my postre!
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Initially I thought you had written derrière then I realised that was the wrong language.
 
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Doughnut NZ said:
Initially I thought you had written derrière then I realised that was the wrong language.
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You bet your... . Yeah. It was indeed.

Arn said:
On desserts I can be flexible!
Click to expand...
Perhaps alternating days?

Buen camino, Arn - I assume you are in Burgos tonight? There will be no shortage of options, if that's the case. Personally, I'd be heading for pizza at Pizzería La Competencia. But you are in morcillaland, and there is lots of choice.
Happy eating!
 
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Going to the clinic for foot issues.The Pilgrim office made the appointment for me. I’ll let you know how it comes out. That said, cancelled my reservation at Cafe Ojeda due to time conflict.
 
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Arn said:
Well, a miscommunication on my part, the clinic only does PT. So, off to buy more Compeed, cotton pads and tape. Here one more day and I’m optimistic.
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Me thinks you possibly have a painful blister. If so, far better than any other internal foot problem.
Maybe you won't miss out on Cafe Ojeda after all.
 
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Thank you all, but, humbly I ask you let me know of anyone I can pray for as I walk the Way. I try to gather their names and, when I’m at an appropriate spot say a Rosary. Today it’s the Cathedral to Our Lady in Burgos.
May the Holy Spirit touch us all.
 

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Please add a friend's three year old granddaughter with leukemia; dealing with it since December 2019. Her name is Amelia. Her dad died of an accidental overdose in 9/20. Thank you, Arn.
 
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Arn said:
OK, today is #2 in Burgos a city with fond memories. Left foot is at 80% and I will do a test run to Tardajos tomorrow 11km, if I don’t meander off the CF as I wind through the city.
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Arn,
Perhaps you might do a test walk instead of a run.

Now to more serious ideas.

As you head out towards Tardajos consider stopping at the comfy La Fabrica at least for a coffee.

When walking November 2014 soon after leaving Burgos it began to drizzle then really pour. Totally soaked and cold I stopped at La Fabrica an old flour mill then recently repurposed to be an albergue/hostal. It was a GREAT find.

Each heated albergue dorm room held 4 pilgrims with fresh linens on the bunks and a sleek toilet/shower adjacent; regular tourist accommodation was also available.

The busy ground floor bar/dining room was popular with locals as well as visiting hunters and the food was copious, tasty and good value. All in all it was a pleasant stop before starting up the Meseta.
http://www.alberguelafabrica.com/
 
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I stopped at La Fabrica in 2014. It was great! Yes, a great Meseta beginning. Muchas Gracias!
 
Please hold my friend Lis in your heart and prayers. She has breast cancer and is having a rough time of it. And I will keep you and your feet in my prayers.
 
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Thank you so much for your kindness Arn. I deeply appreciate it.
This morning here in Sydney our family woke up to the sad news that one of our extended family, Bob, passed away during the night after suffering with cancer. It was a particularly aggressive one and it’s only been two months since he was diagnosed.
He was a much-loved husband, brother, father and grandfather. He and Sue, his wife, were great adventurers and lovers of the outdoors - in recent years they would head off in their caravan touring Australia’s outback and have life ‘on the wallaby’ for months at a time. He was an active member of their local church and his faith has given him much comfort during the difficult time since his diagnosis.
If you could say a prayer for Bob our family would be so grateful -
With our thanks -
Jenny and family
 
Jenny,
Tonight’s Rosary is for Bob and his family.
God Bless, Protect and Keep them in His Grace.
 
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Arn said:
Jenny,
Tonight’s Rosary is for Bob and his family.
God Bless, Protect and Keep them in His Grace.
Click to expand...
Thank you so very much Arn - your kindness means more than words can say. We all - and most especially Sue - take a great deal of comfort in knowing that the Rosary you say tonight is for Bob and our family.
‘Sending you best wishes and our deep gratitude.
Jenny
 
I did not go to Cafe Ojeda. No reservation available when I could go. So I sucked it up and ate at the restaurant located in my hotel. Rice Reyes Catolicos. There was a price fix meal, so as is my want, I tried to change it with minor success. After I convinced them I didn’t want salad and bread, but did want a Sapphire and tonic as a starter, more than one glass of vino (I ended up drinking a bottle) and a Johnnie Walker Black night cap. Then I just ate what they put in front of me.
 

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Arn, my wife and I are devotees to the pilgrim's meal, selecting this for dinner almost every night. Has the pandemic impacted the pegegrino meal or menu del dia in any way? For example, is inside dining still available in most places, maybe just spreading out the tables a bit? Gracias ! Bob
 
I’ve noticed little change in meal setting. Folks congregate as usual. Masks come off as soon as a party gathers and is seated. Staff always wear masks. Most of my Caminos I enjoyed both the menu del Dua snd Peregrino. With my lifestyle change, low carb high fat, it’s a challenge to get restaurants not to bring bread and fries. That said, I’ve been very successful getting a plato that contains choriso, jamon and quesa.
 
@Arn I'm in Burgos tomorrow for two days rest, any recommendations for where to dine in a nice restaurant for morcilla?
 
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Arn said:
Then I just ate what they put in front of me.
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Could not eat that menu.

Basically just the cod, as whitefish seems not to bother me, else nothing. And a piece of cod isn't worth €19, especially not when it's just half of the entrée.

Though it's good that you clearly have a healthier budget than I do, so that you can evade these imperfections and compromises more easily.

Honestly, I'd easily prefer cheap supermercado food to the contents of that menu.
 
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Arn said:
I like chocolate best!
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Fantastic yes -- but where you can get it properly made, i.e. only in some village places in Catalonia for the locals only, Flán Català is better than anything.

I first had it in the early 1970s in, well, some village places in Catalonia ; then had forgotten it ; but was delightfully reminded during the 2019 stage of my current Camino.

Elements I suppose of Proust's madeleine ... (and BTW the madeleines in Illiers-Combray are in fact fantastic, as I discovered walking through on my 1994).

Annoyingly, the only restaurant I came across this year that made it, had sold out 'til the next Monday ...
 
The cod was very good. This is an upscale restaurant and I expected it to be pricey. To organize this Camino to be as hassle free as possible and not break my piggy bank, I took on every sailing certification course I could from March to two weeks before my departure. I taught 18 classes up and down the East Coast, Georgia to Maine. My kids support the fact that I am spending their inheritance. I get the money. They get the property. So, feed me when I’m hungry, and serve cerveza or vinotinto when I’m dry.
 
Oh, for those interested. Sunday Mass at the cathedral is celebrated in a private chapel at 09:00. As you look at the Cathedral main entrance where tickets are purchased, to your left side of the cathedral are stairs leading to the Entrada. Today Mass was celebrated in this impressive chapel. At the very top is Santiago Mata Moros.
Bless you all.
 

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David with new Kit! said:
@Arn I'm in Burgos tomorrow for two days rest, any recommendations for where to dine in a nice restaurant for morcilla?
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In Burgos tonight and Monday. I'm no gourmet but the meals I've had at the Bonfin on Cathedral Square included good morcilla. 'Course the real reason to sit there is the view of the square! Touristy.

Staying again at Hostal riMboMbin, halfway between the cathedral and the Plaza Mayor. Recommended for those tired of albergues.
 
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Another skipper here. Have trained sailing wannabies in the past, as well as skippering with tourists, looking for the Northern Lighs, sports fishing and whales up here in Arctic Norway.

Have a good Camino and good food/drinks along the way. Have a toast (I prefer icy beers/Red wine/anything that contains alcohol) for me one day. I'll be back! Soon!
 
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Arn said:
My Spanish is sophomoric but I can still order... un plato de salchicha de jamon y quesa.
The cerveza speaks for itself.
In Hontanas, passed through last time 2014, happy I stopped.
Click to expand...
Wow, Arn! It looks delicious!

Who needs pan? . I sure wouldn’t!

Cheers from Oz -

Jenny
 
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Arn said:
My Spanish is sophomoric but I can still order... un plato de salchicha de jamon y quesa.
The cerveza speaks for itself.
In Hontanas, passed through last time 2014, happy I stopped.
Click to expand...
Arn,
As you progress across the Meseta soon you will be at Castrojeriz which
always was a favorite stop of mine. Check out the friendly bar scene at La Taberna. Both it and the nearby El Meson in the past had good food.
Buen camino!
 
mspath said:
Arn,
As you progress across the Meseta soon you will be at Castrojeriz which
always was a favorite stop of mine. Check out the friendly bar scene at La Taberna. Both it and the nearby El Meson in the past had good food.
Buen camino!
Click to expand...
I will be staying at Alb Rosalia. Will check it out thank you! Though, as hard as it may be to believe, I do turn in early.
 
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Arn said:
I will be staying at Alb Rosalia. Will check it out thank you! Though, as hard as it may be to believe, I do turn in early.
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I believe it. See more re La Taberna here.
 
Just arrived at Hotel Norte y Londres - Shower and rest in progress and then a little wander
 
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@Arn Cafe Ojeda shut on a Monday, found out when we arrived

We took @rappahannock_rev advice and sat at Bonfin and people watched, at least, until the rain started.

We then discovered a wonderful tapas bar 30secs from our hotel, La Favorita Burgos. Great atmosphere, large selection of tapas, quality meal available if tapas not enough. Arrive from 1800hrs if you want to guarantee a seat. Dinner from 2000hrs.

Going to Restaurant Rincon de Espana tomorrow for lunch with Camino friends.

Looking forward to the cuchinillo.
 
David, it appears Cafe Ojeda is being uncooperative when I, or friends, try to eat there this Camino.
 
You do know that the Rincon has gone upscale since the film The Way was shot there? The bar serves a good gintonic!
 
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rappahannock_rev said:
You do know that the Rincon has gone upscale since the film The Way was shot there? The bar serves a good gintonic!
Click to expand...
We enjoyed lunch very much, but they were in a hurry to move us out to free up the table. For what we paid, I thought we had bought the table. Didn't do the gin, but we had a bottle of very nice Rueda wine
 
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Cindi and I arrived in Madrid this morning and sailed through the health check station with QR codes in hand. We took the Renfe train to Puerta del Sol and had a nice meal of calamari, padrones peppers and morcilla. Delicious! With ice cold beer and white wine. Steady rain all today, but we’re happy to finally be back on the ground again.

Bob
 
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