With my hips, knees and ankles all to starting to succumb to the downstream consequences of several earlier decades of being morbidly obese, I have to think about other ways to accomplish future Caminos. I am still an "big" guy, but no longer obese. This year, I started from Madrid, but had to stop at Sarria due to the daily bone grinding pain and the aggravating effects of the constant rain and, generally, raw weather. It just accumulated to the point where it was no longer "fun." So, I pulled the plug t Sarria and took a bus into Santiago. Of course, as soon as I exited the estacion de autobuses there, the sun came out and stayed out for at least the next week.
I do not blame the weather. This was my fourth Camino. I know what I am doing, and I am well prepared, mentally and physically. Also, I am well used to rain and mud. In each of my previous Caminos, I experienced prodigious rain, mud and even snow into mid-May, especially at elevations above about 700 meters ASL. Besides, as the late Rev. Phil Wren always said..."the rain in Spain...falls mainly on....Galicia!" He was of course correct.
So, I am toying with the idea of bicycling the
Camino Frances in future, as it has the best infrastructure. Now, don't get me wrong, I HATE sharing the Camino with mountain bikes. I dislike this combination almost as much as I detest mud. For the most part, mountain bikers are an intrusion and an added danger to walking pilgrims.
But, read on...
I completely respect their right to do the Camino on a bicycle. But the absence of bells, whistles, or any advance warning of their approach, especially when approaching from behind, is just treacherous to walking pilgrims. What galls me is that I know there is a road-based alternative more suited to bicycles, and safer to walking pilgrims. Yet cyclists do not use it much of the time. I may seek to change that...
I have good reason for this aversion to mountain bikes on the Camino trails. On my first
Camino Frances in 2013, I very nearly lost my life when two speeding (downhill) mountain bikers on as day trip, forced me off the trail while I was walking up Alto de Perdon just beyond Pamplona. NOW, of course, there is a series of steel posts with a steel cable mounted at thigh height to prevent such a disaster. It's just my family motto..."A day late and a dollar short..."
But in 2013, only the quick thinking of the second cyclist, in dumping his bike in the weeds and grabbing my lower shoulder strap prevented me from leaping into space where the drop-off is near vertical for about 100 meters along the trail. I had partially stayed my fall with one of my Leki hiking poles. It literally bent into an archery bow shape, and sprang back to normal afterwards. But, it would not have held my full weight. The second, unanimous biker literally saved my life. Parenthetically, once I returned home a month or so later, I wrote Leki an e-mail explaining the story and praising the construction of even the ultra-lightweight poles I was using. Surprisingly, they sent me a free pair of poles as a thank you...what?! I thank them for helping to save my life, and THEY thank me for being thankful and appreciative...go figure...
Anyway, I have been checking into bicycle alternatives for accomplishing the
Camino Frances. Did you know that there are parallel, or near parallel secondary roads and regional highways (typically with nil traffic) that follow and crisscross the
Camino Frances from Roncesvalles all the way into Santiago? This explains how folks with skinny tire road bikes can do the Camino. I see them in Plaza Obradoiro all the time and wonder how they did that. I knew that they could not have schlepped the bikes up and down muddy trails in the country. So, they must have used the established, more or less parallel road route. I just need to find out exactly how that route runs, what the elevations are, services along the way, etc.
I plan to ask the skinny tire folks more about how they did this when I return to Santiago in July to work as a volunteer for a month. In the meantime, if anyone knows of a good book or guide that explains the road route alternative to support biking a Camino without having to inconvenience or endanger walking pilgrims, please share it.
My notion is to use a proper "city bike" (the European term), complete with fenders, lights and bell. I happen to have a very good one from my years living in Belgium. It might be slow going up hills, and I expect to have to walk it up many hillside roads, but it will be more comfortable than a mountain bike and certainly more comfortable than enduring that skinny road bike saddle for two or three weeks. DO NOT WORRY, I WILL NOT WEAR SPANDEX! This will save the eyesight of many a person along the way. I am definitely one of those people who should NEVER wear spandex, under any circumstances.
The notion of buying or renting a bike is also something I might consider. All suggestions and recommendations concerning the type of bicycle, how to obtain and maintain same, and specific gear I might need will be very gratefully accepted.
Also, as I typically stay in hostals or hotels, security for the bike should not be as much an issue, and I will not have to carry as much as I do now as a backpacking pilgrim.
I would prefer to be able to walk as I have in the past. But, depending on what my doctors tell me over the next few months, I may have to revert to "Plan B" for doing a Camino in future.
Any thoughts and suggestions are, of course, welcome. Thank you in advance.