LIVE from the Camino Finally started from Irún

[David with new Kit!]

I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.

Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).

The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.

But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them

We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.

Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.

As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.

It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.

When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.

I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.

We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.

Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.

I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day

We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.

That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)

I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.

Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.

I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.

One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.

 

[Flory]

I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.

Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).

The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.

But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them

We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.

Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.

As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.

It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.

When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.

I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.

We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.

Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.

I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day

We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.

That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)

I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.

Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.

I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.

One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.

Beautiful camino. Walked to Santander in september 2021. Look for the route the flysch a beautiful detour. Buen camino.

 

[Sedona11]

I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.

Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).

The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.

But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them

We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.

Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.

As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.

It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.

When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.

I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.

We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.

Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.

I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day

We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.

That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)

I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.

Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.

I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.

One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.

Thank you for your posting, please continue your postings, we are heading there in September. Burn Camino

 

[Sagiberg]

I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.

Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).

The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.

But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them

We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.

Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.

As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.

It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.

When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.

I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.

We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.

Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.

I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day

We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.

That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)

I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.

Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.

I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.

One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.

I enjoyed reading. We also started today but took the lower way after a long hesitation. For us it was a good choice for a first day. We'll stay one day in San Sebastian and then continue. Buen Camino

 

[CanadianBarb]

Yes please keep posting! I start Sept 5 in Irun! Buen Camino!

 

[Former member 49149]

I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.

Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).

The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.

But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them

We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.

Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.

As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.

It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.

When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.

I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.

We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.

Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.

I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day

We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.

That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)

I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.

Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.

I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.

One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.

You are in a very popular area for Spanish people on holidays, so yes, be ready for higher costs...but that apart, have a great camino!

 

[dimdog]

Hi, I walked the Norte in June of this year, the scenery is stunning, one place i would highly recommend, & its towards the end, is staying at sobrado dos monxes, which is the working monastery,ni arrived there physically, emotionally & spirituality knackered as the temp was in the high 30's, the head Abbott (Lawrence) is one of the nicest people I've met, & the place is stunning.
It is more expensive than the Frances, & quieter, but that is part of the charm

Buen camino, hope you enjoy the Norte as much as I did

 

[Suz2022]

I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.

Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).

The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.

But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them

We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.

Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.

As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.

It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.

When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.

I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.

We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.

Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.

I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day

We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.

That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)

I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.

Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.

I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.

One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.

thanks! I'm starting exactly one week after you, and this is really helpful. I've been thinking about the weather and am reassured about my decision to emphasize hot-weather clothes. Buen Camino!

 

[David with new Kit!]

So, this morning we left San Sebastian at 0700hrs, mindful that we were at the wrong end of town now. It took us 1hr to get to the other end of town. We were hoping to get breakfast along the route but San Sebastian does not do early!!

But, where the Camino route leaves the beach and heads inland, immediately in front of you is a hotel with a public café. YES, we got breakfast, and you needed it for the climb out of town. Not overly strenuous, but you will break out in a sweat. Today was 29c and humid again. Take supplies with you as we only spotted a donativo a couple o kms outside Orio. Stop and have a cuppa because the descent into Orio was rather stoney and hard walking. Getting into Orio was like getting into Pasaje, you think you are at the bottom, but not yet.
When we finally got to the bottom the arrows point right and left. Take the left arrow and you will be in the main square. Most of the seats were pre-booked but we managed to get two seats in café Kolon txiki to the left. Have a good lunch, you will need it as after a nice walk along the other side of the estuary there is a tough climb. Good walking (concrete) but loooong.

We are in Pensión Agerre Agroturismo tonight, helpfully it's the first accommodation as you drop into Zarautz. Unhelpfully, again, it's at the wrong end of town for the morning. It's raining now and meant to be a bit stormy overnight.

Because we had a nice lunch in Orio we just had pintxos and beer for dinner tonight.

There are two options to Getaria tomorrow, we will take the coastal route.

Hasta mañana

 

[Wandalina]

Great tips thanks for the updates heading in September solo. Trying to control the nerves... as ive learnt from the past caminos 'what will be will be'

Never walked with poles before but will seriously consider now given your post. Usually pick up a nice walking stick in a forest but sure that cant always be guaranteed.
Buen Camino to you

 

[Sue Blue Mountains]

Great tips thanks for the updates heading in September solo. Trying to control the nerves... as ive learnt from the past caminos 'what will be will be'

Never walked with poles before but will seriously consider now given your post. Usually pick up a nice walking stick in a forest but sure that cant always be guaranteed.
Buen Camino to you

Walking with a nice stick from the forest is lovely but walking with 2 lightweight walking poles is really wonderful, especially when you’ve found your own rhythm. I can recommend them. Buen. Camino!

 

[Roisin Mullins]

Yes please keep posting! I start Sept 5 in Irun! Buen Camino!

Hi bfehlau, I arrive in Irun on Sept 4th and start walking on 5th. Our paths may cross. Buen Camino.

 

[lt56ny]

I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.

Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).

The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.

But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them

We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.

Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.

As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.

It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.

When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.

I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.

We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.

Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.

I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day

We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.

That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)

I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.

Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.

I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.

One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.

I always spend one night in Madrid/Barcelona or the city I fly into before a camino. I do this so I can get a SIM card from Vodafone and buy some cheap hiking poles in Decathlon or some other sporting goods store. The bicycle race will wizz by you soon. Also the tourists will be leaving in a week or two so prices should go down. Infrastructure is good on the Norte. I am sure even better than when I walked in. 2017. But it is not the CF. I always buy food the night before so I have plenty to eat when I am walking. I rest and eat when my body tells me not when the town allows me. There are so many wonderful places on the Norte to pull up a rock take off your pack and take out some food. Open some sardines, make a bocadillo, eat some, nuts and fruit. Take off your shoes and enjoy the views and the sounds of the ocean and birds.
You will save some money and have a view that money can't buy.

 

[David with new Kit!]

We got up at 0530hrs today to beat the sun. It was raining! So we put our gear on. By the time we got outside, it had stopped, so we reversed the process.

We walked along the prom beside the beach (too dark to go on the beach) until we got to the road where you need to decide which option to take. We took the simple coast route to Getaria (3 easy miles).

We managed to get a nice breakfast in Getaria. Just follow the arrows out of town and once you cross the road to climb out, you will spot a really nice café on the right. Stop for breakfast because you are in for a long climb out to join the other option.

A hard day, seems to be more ups than downs!! A lot of road walking but thankfully very little main road walking.

When you get to Zumaia stop and have a break, you will need it as you climb again soon.

There is a public toilet at the top of the next climb, but it's in a very popular car park and smelt grim. Best plan to not use it. After that, it goes downhill, you will be knackered by this point and as you get near the bottom you will be about to give up when you see a cafe, but it was closed today. The good news is there is a refrigerated vending machine outside. Get your drinks, get your boots off and your ruck sack, sit on the seats as the next stage is a bit of an uphill slog.

When you eventually get to Itziar (assuming you took that option) there is a very nice restaurant on the left, by the church just before you leave the village. Wonderful lunch, but not for those on a tight budget

The descent into Deba was hard, on a steep concrete road for a mile. When you get to Deba, follow the arrows until you get to the first Street.

It's a bit depressing when you realise the street you want is still three levels below.

Top tip - Look to your left and spot the elevator which will take you down two levels, then exit and walk into the second elevator to arrive at ground level, voila.

Our accommodation is 2 mins from the beach, been for a paddle.

The laundry was 8€+5€!!!!!! It's the only show in town, hence the prices.

Second top tip if you pay for your washing, do it before or after Deba.

 

[Suz2022]

The laundry was 8€+5€!!!!!! It's the only show in town, hence the prices.

ok - I'll do laundry by hand the whole way, then. If I'm going to spend stupid money on private rooms, I can't compound it with pricey laundry (at least until SdC, when I will go to that very chill laundromat)

 

[peregrina2000]

When you get to Zumaia stop and have a break, you will need it as you climb again soon.

Oh, I am so sorry I missed this - in Zumaia, you can take the alternative Ruta del Flysch (part of it is shown on Gronze) — an absolutely spectacular coastal route into Deba. It kills me that the camino doesn’t take you over to the coast more, and that you spend so much time alongside the national highway, but I understand that “true pilgrims” would have just put their nose to the grind and walked on the shortest route to Santiago.

If you are feeling like you want to have more coastal time, @David with new Kit!, have a look at the coastal alternatives that are frequently just a km or two away from the camino but actually on the coast. They are wonderful.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Oh, I am so sorry I missed this - in Zumaia, you can take the alternative Ruta del Flysch (part of it is shown on Gronze) — an absolutely spectacular coastal route into Deba. It kills me that the camino doesn’t take you over to the coast more, and that you spend so much time alongside the national highway, but I understand that “true pilgrims” would have just put their nose to the grind and walked on the shortest route to Santiago.

If you are feeling like you want to have more coastal time, @David with new Kit!, have a look at the coastal alternatives that are frequently just a km or two away from the camino but actually on the coast. They are wonderful.

Thanks @peregrina2000 we did take the alternate route and it did not disappoint. I have you're copy of coastal alternatives with me and have decide to take the longer route around Santander and have planned in an extra day to do so.

 

[David with new Kit!]

ok - I'll do laundry by hand the whole way, then. If I'm going to spend stupid money on private rooms, I can't compound it with pricey laundry (at least until SdC, when I will go to that very chill laundromat)

I agree, I walked out of the laundromat and my wife reminded me that the next stage is tough and if we arrive knackered in sweaty clothes with nothing to change into, we might regret not doing it. So, I went back in and bit the bullet. Also, it does not have a change machine inside. Fortunately my basic Spanish enabled me to ask a bartender to swap a note for coins

 

[CanadianBarb]

Hi bfehlau, I arrive in Irun on Sept 4th and start walking on 5th. Our paths may cross. Buen Camino.

Oh how exciting! I have a green Gregory pack 44 L with a Canadian flag sewn on the left side of the pack and a Camigas patch sewn on the right side. I will be using hiking poles. I am coming from Canada and am taking my pack as carry-on but hoping my poles in a cardboard tube will arrive as regular luggage. If not, I will need to get hiking poles in Irun before starting as I see it is quite a climb for the first day. I hope our paths cross - Buen Camino to you too!

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks @peregrina2000 we did take the alternate route and it did not disappoint. I have you're copy of coastal alternatives with me and have decide to take the longer route around Santander and have planned in an extra day to do so.

That’s great. I think you will love the route around Santander. If I ever walk it again, I will break it up and stay in Soto de la Marina in the Posada de la Morena. I have recommended that spot to several people based on @NualaOC’s experience there years ago, and it did not disappoint.

Loving your posts! Buen camino.

 

[David with new Kit!]

We left Deba at 0630hrs to beat the heat, it was a short walk over the river to enter the woods.

At this time of morning it's very dark and entering the woods, darker still. It's very steep and very tough. Hope you have a torch if starting early, or make sure your cell phone is charged.

There are plenty tripping hazards.

It was a very hard day, lots of ups and downs of course, but very steep and rough in places.

I hope you pack your food reserves as there is indeed nowhere for 16kms.

It rained, it drizzled, the sunshone through. Decisions decisions on waterproofs and what/when to wear.

We decided for the drizzle not to bother as the waterproofs were initially on and off all the time and it got hot when the drizzle stopped.

However, when it pelted down, all bets were off. Another hot sweaty day.

The descent into Markina was VERY steep, albeit on a concrete road. Every bit as challenging as Deba was.

We have arrived at our Casa Rural, and very nice it is too. Dinner is on the premises so we can properly rest up.

Another early start for Guernika tomorrow

 

[David with new Kit!]

We left Markina early again and made our way out of town. When we got to the roundabout the choice was to follow the yellow arrows along a narrow dark path along the stream or follow my (Dutch GPS route). We followed the Camino arrows along the river. But, it's dark and narrow, torch recommended if leaving in the dark.

We walked as far as the Bridgestone tyre factory and decided to leave the official route and follow the GPS alongside the road as it rejoined the Camino a bit further on.

Well, it's supposed to rejoin it but the route to rejoin is blocked off now. So, we had to continue on the road until it rejoined the Camino in the next village. Best to stick to the official route unless you like main roads.

No breakfast in Bolivar, all closed. We walked on to Munitibar, got to the main square, all still closed

But, my wife heard the sound of glasses and cups close by. If you look at the church in front of you, there is a small alley to the right of it. Go through and at least one of the two cafes will be open. A wonderful surprise.

I've been using the Dutch GPS routes and they do not always coincide with the official Camino. Also, after Munitibar the Camino has several options, so pay attention to your maps today.

There are two more café opportunities after Munitibar.

Although today, for us was 25kms, it was a lot easier (still hard though) than yesterday's 20kms and it was a tough, but enjoyable walk.

Top tip - If you are paying for laundry, then walk to the Eroski supermarket where it is 8€ wash and dry. There is a bar selling tapas (where we currently are) while your washing is done. The cherry on the cake is we can get our supplies from here for tomorrow.

All in one place, what luck!

 

[Suz2022]

We left Markina early again and made our way out of town. When we got to the roundabout the choice was to follow the yellow arrows along a narrow dark path along the stream or follow my (Dutch GPS route). We followed the Camino arrows along the river. But, it's dark and narrow, torch recommended if leaving in the dark.

We walked as far as the Bridgestone tyre factory and decided to leave the official route and follow the GPS alongside the road as it rejoined the Camino a bit further on.

Well, it's supposed to rejoin it but the route to rejoin is blocked off now. So, we had to continue on the road until it rejoined the Camino in the next village. Best to stick to the official route unless you like main roads.

No breakfast in Bolivar, all closed. We walked on to Munitibar, got to the main square, all still closed

But, my wife heard the sound of glasses and cups close by. If you look at the church in front of you, there is a small alley to the right of it. Go through and at least one of the two cafes will be open. A wonderful surprise.

I've been using the Dutch GPS routes and they do not always coincide with the official Camino. Also, after Munitibar the Camino has several options, so pay attention to your maps today.

There are two more café opportunities after Munitibar.

Although today, for us was 25kms, it was a lot easier (still hard though) than yesterday's 20kms and it was a tough, but enjoyable walk.

Top tip - If you are paying for laundry, then walk to the Eroski supermarket where it is 8€ wash and dry. There is a bar selling tapas (where we currently are) while your washing is done. The cherry on the cake is we can get our supplies from here for tomorrow.

All in one place, what luck!

I know you don't expect to post every day, but I'm soaking up all that you're sharing, since I'm flying Sunday to start on Tuesday, following in your well-described footsteps! Thanks for all this, and buen laundry!

 

[David with new Kit!]

Guernika to Lezama

We left early as planned, which was just as well as it was a 35c day.

Getting out of town is easy, walk to the first big roundabout and turn right. Keep going until you see the small church on the right. From there you can see the path that heads into the woods.

The first 100m fools you into thinking its gonna be an easy climb, well, think again.

It's dark in the woods with a steep climb and lots of tripping hazards. Those poles have paid for themselves many times over by now.

It's quite a long climb, but not as hard as previous days. Remember your supplies as there is nothing until Larrabetzu. Cross the bridge and look to your left, find the stairs and climb them to the main square to find that the bar is open which is where I am starting my blog.

BTW - I note in another thread there was a debate about zumo de naranja being a bit expensive. We have not paid above 2.5€ per glass, including this stop.

I'll finish it from my accommodation which is just outside Lezama.

The hardest part was exiting the forest onto the road leading to Larrabetzu and then from Larrabetzu to Lezama as it was very open and it hit 35c.

My wife was fine as she brought a very lightweight UV resistant umbrella for the sun.

Got to Lezama and a running competition was in progress, rather busy, but we found a bar at the far end.

We are now sitting outside our accommodation (1330hrs) Casa Rural Mandarían. It's a 1600hrs check in. It's strictly adhered to as it's closed!!

So much for my vision of a relaxing sit in the garden with a few cold ones.

Fortunately around 1430hrs the owner turned up and let us in.

It's 0.5km each way to town, with a hill in between.

We decided to order into the accommodation as it was the easy option.

It's now 1815hrs and a storm just broke and cooled things down a bit.

Bilbao tomorrow? Let's see.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Lezama - Portugalete - Pobeña

Last night we got dinner delivered as we considered that the town would be buzzing after the running competition with all tables pre-booked.

Glad we did as I had a large portion of wonderful BBQ ribs delivered along with some beers.

In the morning we stopped for breakfast in our Casa Rural Mandarían before starting out. Overall, it was quite an easy walk, but no services until Bilbao. After a breakfast, you will just need liquids for the walk, food not required.

As we have done Bilbao before, we decided instead to get the tube to Portugalete. If you have never been to Bilbao before, then make sure you take it as a rest day. It's a wonderful place, especially the old town. Although I have to admit, the Guggenheim left me confused when I visited it previously.

We did not stop in Portugalete either, we walked to La Arena, had a few beers and then walked along the beach carrying our shoes, with our rucksacks on. Must have been quite a sight, but it had been a long hard hot day and we were beyond caring by then. The cold water revived our tired feet wonderfully.

We did not stop in La Arena, we walked the beach to Pobeña, which is at the other end of the long beach.

We are staying in Casa Rural Magarri. Oh my goodness, best place so far. Large working shower with working doors, shower head that stays in place, and a shower rose too.

Got given a large complimentary bottle of water on arrival to put in our fridge.

We are chilling on the patio waiting on our laundry to finish before popping it in the dryer. Both which are included in the price

Wow, wow, wow.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Pobeña to Castro Urdiales

We bought a couple of pan aux chocolate para llevar from the restaurant last night for breakfast. We taped up our feet and set out on the Via Verde coastal route.

The views were wonderful with a nice breeze too. There is a short tunnel enroute, shored up with wooden Barton's and as we exited were were surrounded by about 12 goats, which seemed to be semi wild as there were no tags, string or bells on them, and they were all her black. The big Billy goat had an impressive set of horns, about 1m across.

We got to Onton where the route splits between the longer original route or the shorter coastal route. It's well marked in town.

If there is a cafe here, no-one found it. Outside town is a service station named "Easygas" it's well named as it only sells fuel. No refrescos of any kind.

But, the attendant told me of a cafe about 1 km further along the same road, on a curve. It was a long hot climb out of Onton with no cover, but eventually it drops down the other side to go under the autopista.

Just as it goes under, you will spot café Saltacaballo on the curve.

What a little oasis, menu del día, Zumo, breakfast beer!!

The views from the patio are superb as you can along the coast to where we started from. Also, I can see the service station in the distance, so the attendant was correct.

We arrived in town along the seafront and immediately found a bar for a couple of cold Coka Colas so that we didn't arrive at our accommodation sweating too much.

So, we checked in early today as we only had 17kms to cover and went straight to the laundromat as the C del N is not helping with my plan to do the laundry every second day.

Our accommodation tomorrow has no facilities, hence why having to do it today.

The good news is that every laundromat so far has had a bar beside it. I'm now sitting with a glass of Crianza waiting on it to end.

And, this bar has a small restaurant and I managed to reserve the last table for lunch.

We bumped into a couple from Argentina in café Saltacaballo and they had done the CF 3 times and this is their 2nd Del Norte.

We had a great conversation with them trying in English and me trying in Spanish.

With eating our main meal early, we hope to get to be early tonight as tomorrow is a 20+km day.

 

[Wandalina]

Sounds just perfect to me exactly why im hitting the road again. You've summed it up perfectly

I always spend one night in Madrid/Barcelona or the city I fly into before a camino. I do this so I can get a SIM card from Vodafone and buy some cheap hiking poles in Decathlon or some other sporting goods store. The bicycle race will wizz by you soon. Also the tourists will be leaving in a week or two so prices should go down. Infrastructure is good on the Norte. I am sure even better than when I walked in. 2017. But it is not the CF. I always buy food the night before so I have plenty to eat when I am walking. I rest and eat when my body tells me not when the town allows me. There are so many wonderful places on the Norte to pull up a rock take off your pack and take out some food. Open some sardines, make a bocadillo, eat some, nuts and fruit. Take off your shoes and enjoy the views and the sounds of the ocean and birds.
You will save some money and have a view that money can't buy.

 

[Wandalina]

Pobeña to Castro Urdiales

We bought a couple of pan aux chocolate para llevar from the restaurant last night for breakfast. We taped up our feet and set out on the Via Verde coastal route.

The views were wonderful with a nice breeze too. There is a short tunnel enroute, shored up with wooden Barton's and as we exited were were surrounded by about 12 goats, which seemed to be semi wild as there were no tags, string or bells on them, and they were all her black. The big Billy goat had an impressive set of horns, about 1m across.

We got to Onton where the route splits between the longer original route or the shorter coastal route. It's well marked in town.

If there is a cafe here, no-one found it. Outside town is a service station named "Easygas" it's well named as it only sells fuel. No refrescos of any kind.

But, the attendant told me of a cafe about 1 km further along the same road, on a curve. It was a long hot climb out of Onton with no cover, but eventually it drops down the other side to go under the autopista.

Just as it goes under, you will spot café Saltacaballo on the curve.

What a little oasis, menu del día, Zumo, breakfast beer!!

The views from the patio are superb as you can along the coast to where we started from. Also, I can see the service station in the distance, so the attendant was correct.

We arrived in town along the seafront and immediately found a bar for a couple of cold Coka Colas so that we didn't arrive at our accommodation sweating too much.

So, we checked in early today as we only had 17kms to cover and went straight to the laundromat as the C del N is not helping with my plan to do the laundry every second day.

Our accommodation tomorrow has no facilities, hence why having to do it today.

The good news is that every laundromat so far has had a bar beside it. I'm now sitting with a glass of Crianza waiting on it to end.

And, this bar has a small restaurant and I managed to reserve the last table for lunch.

We bumped into a couple from Argentina in café Saltacaballo and they had done the CF 3 times and this is their 2nd Del Norte.

We had a great conversation with them trying in English and me trying in Spanish.

With eating our main meal early, we hope to get to be early tonight as tomorrow is a 20+km day.

Loving your posts David some really useful tips. Love that your wife heard the clattering of cups and discovered a cafe for you to rest in sounds like a great adventure. Im even looking forward to the mid laundry sneaky wine break happy walking to you both

 

[David with new Kit!]

Castro Urdiales to Liendo

We had our usual pan aux chocolate before we left, but, there was no need. We passed 3 open cafes before 0700hrs on the way out. Who knew!

It's a great walk along the coast, great views.

At Islares you will get to a T junction where it says go left 100m to a Taberna for breakfast, which may or may not be open and may be more than 100m.

Or

Turn right following the Camino, past the church on your right and 50m further on is a left turn with a nice restaurant. Which was our choice.

Much better than "maybe" in 100m

Good walking, good scenery, lots of places to stop, no need to stock your rucksack with food (as we did).

Snacks, beer in café La Abuela Santa in Guriezo. You might think you have climbed for the day, but you have not. There is still a long steep climb to come shortly after the cafe, so best to sort yourself out here before the climb.

We got to Liendo and had another beer, but we are not stopping here, no rooms left. We carried on a couple of Kms past Liendo to Pasada de la Ventilla, which we had booked It's got a pool, but we had no costumes!

Fantastic place, very well set out. The only downside is they only do breakfast, not dinner. If you fancy a bit of luxury (with no dinner) give it a go (79€)

So, we took a taxi to Laredo to get something to eat, which was a failure, and I won't bore you with the details.

Let's see what tomorrow brings.

 

[dimdog]

Love reading your daily posts, I did the Norte, in June of this year, it was a stunning walk, great memories, please keep them coming.

 

[Wandalina]

Just wondering re accommodation in gernika where did people stay. There seems to be no albergue?

 

[David with new Kit!]

Just wondering re accommodation in gernika where did people stay. There seems to be no albergue?

I stayed at Hotel Boliña through Hotels.com. We are not choosing to stay in public or municipal albergues.

Our choice of accommodation is either private albergues, Casa Rurales, Pensiones or similar.

We are at a stage in life where we want a tiny bit more comfort on our Caminos.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Liendo - Laredo - Castillo Siete Villas

Decided to skip breakfast in the accommodation as it was at 0830hrs, too late for us.

We left at 0730hrs and got to the ferry point in time to catch the second ferry of the day - The first ferry leaves at 0900hrs so no point arriving earlier.

We opted to walk along Laredo's 5km beach instead of walking along the promenade.

At Sontoña walk off the ferry, straight up the first Street into a little square and have your breakfast there.

Walk out of Sotoña towards Berries, walking alongside the prison walls. You will eventually have the option of continuing left, inland, or taking the coastal option to the right.

We took the coastal option. Wow, it was hard, the shortclip here shows an example of what it's like. I hesitate to say it's dangerous, but it's definitely difficult. But, great views, and when you finally get around the headland, stunning views along a great beach to Noja.

Get down there, kick of your shoes and walk. It will take over an hour to get along the beach. We walked off the beach into the first (tourist) café and ordered paella de mariscos.

The Camino continues to the right once you leave the beach. So, ignore the (very nice) tourist trap (Café el Barco) and follow the Camino around the corner to find several other cafes.

We are staying in Castillo Siete Villas tonight in Hotel Los Torres. We were delighted to find that it was less than 4kms from Noja.

The Hotel is a wonderful find (80€) and my washing is being done for me while I rest up. There is not a laundry service per se, but our clean clothes ran out today, so our host agreed to assist us.

As we had a nice lunch in Noja, it might just be beer and pintxos tonight (don't know where yet)

Santander tomorrow for two days rest, then the coastal route, but we are doing it with an overnight stop. 31 Kms to Boo is too much for us in one day.

 

[Suz2022]

Since I'm planning to stay in Liendo next Tuesday, should I worry about finding dinner?

So, we took a taxi to Liendo to get something to eat, which was a failure, and I won't bore you with the details.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Since I'm planning to stay in Liendo next Tuesday, should I worry about finding dinner?

Hi @Suz2022
I mixed up my Liendo with my Laredo

Laredo was horrible because dinner is sooo late. We gave up.

But, in Liendo there is a nice restaurant on the way in, on the RHS before reaching the church, which does dinner, we stopped there for pintxos and beer. But I reckon without a reservation your chances of getting in are low.

Our experiences so far is that the locals generally reserve their seats.

Bar villa Mar is its name if you want to reserve.

There are meant to be two other restaurants in Liendo but they were not on our route.

Not a lot of options unfortunately, it's a small town.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Castillo Siete Villas to Santander

Last night we ate dinner in nearby Café Vicente and had a great time, lots of good choices.

We opted for breakfast in our accommodation once our host kindly offered to serve at 0730hrs instead of the more normal 0830hrs.

What a great breakfast around 7€ for us both. And, we were given cake in foil para llevar.

A great stop.

Our walk to Santander was all on the main road up to Galizano, where we rested our weary feet in one of the three bars (not on the road front).

We decided to take the longer costal route to Somo to break the monotony. We did not enjoying the road walk today. Perhaps the coastal route will be better......

The coastal route is very nice until it reaches the headland around Loredo.

If you use the Norte app it takes you along the beach to Somo. As our feet were taped up today, we declined that option.

If you use the Buen Camino ap it takes you inland through the pine forest. We chose this route.

It was a bad mistake for us as there were multiple paths crossing throughout the woods and "straight ahead" was not always clear. Also, there were no markers to help.

Towards the end, a kind Spanish runner cut short his walk and guided us through the rabbit warren to a proper road, from where we sorted ourselves out.

In Somo we stopped in a restaurant for lunch and to recover.

If we had continued on the road instead of the coastal route it would have been 1.5hrs (ish) . The coastal route took us 3 hrs.

Choices, eh!

It was easy to find the ferry and one was arriving as we got there, first luck of the day. Oh, remember a mask, it's mandatory on board still.

We are now in Santander in a very nice hotel for two nights. So far, our only planned rest day, but who knows....

We might not wander far today as we ache all over, especially our feet.

Good luck with your choices today.

 

[David with new Kit!]

That’s great. I think you will love the route around Santander. If I ever walk it again, I will break it up and stay in Soto de la Marina in the Posada de la Morena. I have recommended that spot to several people based on @NualaOC’s experience there years ago, and it did not disappoint.

Loving your posts! Buen camino.

Posada de la Morena is booked out a week ahead!!

The influence of your good notes no doubt

But we have still managed to get somewhere else in Soto de la Marina for Sunday night

 

[peregrina2000]

But we have still managed to get somewhere else in Soto de la Marina for Sunday night

Hope you will report back so that forum members will have good choices.

Just looking at google maps, it looks like there are two parts to this town. In the area right near the beach, I seeLa Palmera de la Playa, some apartamentos turísticos, and Villa Playa San Juan (seems to have a two night minimum).

About a km away, in what I’m guessing is the town itself, there are several more options. Not sure how pricey this all is, but I think it’s a good bet that pilgrims will be able to find something.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[DavidR]

discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That al

Liendo - Laredo - Castillo Siete Villas

Decided to skip breakfast in the accommodation as it was at 0830hrs, too late for us.

We left at 0730hrs and got to the ferry point in time to catch the second ferry of the day - The first ferry leaves at 0900hrs so no point arriving earlier.

We opted to walk along Laredo's 5km beach instead of walking along the promenade.

At Sontoña walk off the ferry, straight up the first Street into a little square and have your breakfast there.

Walk out of Sotoña towards Berries, walking alongside the prison walls. You will eventually have the option of continuing left, inland, or taking the coastal option to the right.

We took the coastal option. Wow, it was hard, the shortclip here shows an example of what it's like. I hesitate to say it's dangerous, but it's definitely difficult. But, great views, and when you finally get around the headland, stunning views along a great beach to Noja.

Get down there, kick of your shoes and walk. It will take over an hour to get along the beach. We walked off the beach into the first (tourist) café and ordered paella de mariscos.

The Camino continues to the right once you leave the beach. So, ignore the (very nice) tourist trap (Café el Barco) and follow the Camino around the corner to find several other cafes.

We are staying in Castillo Siete Villas tonight in Hotel Los Torres. We were delighted to find that it was less than 4kms from Noja.

The Hotel is a wonderful find (80€) and my washing is being done for me while I rest up. There is not a laundry service per se, but our clean clothes ran out today, so our host agreed to assist us.

As we had a nice lunch in Noja, it might just be beer and pintxos tonight (don't know where yet)

Santander tomorrow for two days rest, then the coastal route, but we are doing it with an overnight stop. 31 Kms to Boo is too much for us in one day.

Its been 4.5 years since I walked the Norte and I still remember that climb all too well :-/ Well done for persisting, and thanks for sharing your journey!

 

[David with new Kit!]

Santander stopover

A great down day in Santander, i won't bore you with the details, except.......

We visited the Cathedral to get our sello on day two. You do not get it from the main entrance, you need to go to the opposite side, up a short staircase.

The door at the top will be closed but push the bell and it will open for you. The opening hours are well posted.

Credenciales are also available there.

So, on to tomorrow (Sunday).

 

[David with new Kit!]

Santander to Soto de la Marina (Coastal Option) Sunday.

We left at 0700hrs from the ferry point and walked along the coast, past the Maritime museum, watching the early morning ferry.

WRONG - There are steps to the left just before you get to the museum, which we missed, so we decided to backtrack. If you get to the beach before noticing, you can walk along it and take the steps at the far end of it instead of backtracking.

Keep walking until you get to the very end of the prom and you will find two cafes off the roundabout for breakfast, we opted for Cafe Coronna. It's a good stop as the next set of stairs is close by. In fact, you will see them while sipping your coffee.

Walking the coast was fantastic, until we got to the lighthouse. An event had been held recently and the entrance was still gated off!!

We had a 20 min detour to get back on track.

When we finally got back to the lighthouse we wandered around in circles as the route appeared to be asking us to climb a four foot stone wall into brambles.

So, sweaty and frustrated we went to the inevitable bar for a beer and to regroup - And, there was a gap in the wall in the bar patio, leading directly to the route again . It would be better if the route showed this option.

So, wonderful views, any closer and you would be wet!

Hard walking on lots of loose stones, no cover, very hot.

We arrived at La Maruca and discovered the ice cream van. Then after a short walk we found Restaurant Las Olas for lunch. It was fully booked of course but the overflow on the upper terrace was cool and welcoming after a hot walk.

The food was good, very rich, large portions. Lower your sights if you eat in here. A lot of food, expensive for lunch.

On the last stretch of the route, just after Playa Cristal there is a sharp turn to the right, heading along the coast into town. Well, there should be, but it was closed with barbed wire with signs prohibiting entry.

A nuisance only, as the path ahead lead directly into town.

We arrived at our accommodation after a 10hr day, which included stops. On Strava we recorded 24.4kms to Soto de la Marina.

Our feet ache with all the stones on the path, our bones ache with all the little ups and downs. Today was 25c, not too hot, but there was no cover and no clouds so we are knackered on the first day back after resting in Santander.

I'm very glad that we decided to split the walk as my wife would have thrown me into the sea if she thought we were continuing to Boo.

Our accommodation, it's on Booking.com as a Hotel.

So, there is a campsite with a large restaurant block with accommodation. There are also wooden bungalows in the grounds. We have one of these. It's basic, but better than some Pensiónes we have stayed in. Register in the bar.

Large bedroom/kitchen, large bathroom with a shower that works

Hotel Costa San Juan De La Canal 42€ with breakfast at 4€. We might just do breakfast as there is no point leaving early in the dark when we are on the route for the scenery.

10 min walk to the beach, but we might no go there unless our feet approve.

We are pleased we added a day to do this route (more tomorrow) the views were superb, but boy it was hot, long and hard on the feet.

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm very glad that we decided to split the walk as my wife would have thrown me into the sea if she thought we were continuing to Boo.

Glad you have lived to tell the tale. Sounds like you have not only enjojyed the coast but have also conquered a few new obstacles!

was no cover and no clouds

But I’ll bet the scenery was estupendous in the sunlight! I had a gray cloudy day and was wishing for sun!

I am glad you found something reasonable — 42 € for two in a coastal town isn’t too bad. But I’m confused because you are staying in a campsite bungalow?

Rest your feet and thanks for the update!

 

[David with new Kit!]

Glad you have lived to tell the tale. Sounds like you have not only enjojyed the coast but have also conquered a few new obstacles!


But I’ll bet the scenery was estupendous in the sunlight! I had a gray cloudy day and was wishing for sun!

I am glad you found something reasonable — 42 € for two in a coastal town isn’t too bad. But I’m confused because you are staying in a campsite bungalow?

Rest your feet and thanks for the update!

This is what the call a campsite bungalow. In reality, it's a holiday chalet

 

[David with new Kit!]

Day 2 to Boo and then Santillana del Mar

Our accommodation was actually very pleasant and we got breakfast before 0800 hrs for 3€ each.

The walk out was pleasant and the pathway was good. Too good in fact as we had somehow gone off route early.

Taking the coastal route means checking my GPS route very often as there are a lot of opportunities to get it wrong.

I'm mostly using the Norte app, and the route is maybe 90% correct. But my biggest frustration with this app is that when you close your screen and then open it again, say 10 mins later, it mostly does not show your location. I needed to close the app and reopen it to force it to locate me. It doesn't sound much of a problem, but on this coastal option that means every 15 or so minutes and that proved a frustration in this heat.

When we got to Playa de Covachos the path dips a bit and then goes up a bit. The easy path to the left is someone's garden. So, take the rougher other option. It showed a path to the right 10 m up but we ignored it and followed the GPS route another 20m to the official route. But we bumped into a local who said that route was not used and we should backtrack to the other route. We checked it out and sure enough, it was overgrown with brambles.

When we got to Playa de la Arnia the route took us around the cafe but on the exit it tried to take us down a vertical drop, no path in sight. That is very dangerous as some people might be tempted to try. We walked up and around to get back to the path.

On to Playa de Cerrias where we found the path taped with danger tape. So, we walked through the town a short distance to rejoin, but found more danger tape. Lots of dead ends in this town, so frustration won out and we went straight up to the main road and walked around this part of the route and rejoined about 1km out of town.

A very beautiful 2nd day, of which I have added my favourite snap.

I would say that up to La Maruca there are a lot of people about if you got into difficulties. But after that, we met very few people, so maybe best to do this route in pairs as there are a lot of tripping opportunities.

We travelled 12.9kms to Boo today.

So, I'd say it's a 2 day walk to Boo and not a 1 day walk.

By the time we got to Boo, we were frustrated, knackered and hot, so we took the train to Mar.

We then sat in a bar with a few cañas, a tortilla and a large bocadillo con jamón y queso before setting off for Santillana del Mar.

So, the walk was long and hot, no cover from the sun, which topped out at 31c.

No open bars until we got to Santillana del Mar and we dropped into the first bar for vino tinto de verano and a large bottle of cold water. Our plan is to do this every time before registering at our accommodation so that we don't arrive on our knees.

It was 12.5kms to Santillana. So, a 25.4km day.

This is day 2 of my washing cycle and in the Santillana laundromat it was 7€ wash 5€ dry.

Our accommodation is Hospedería Santillana on the way out of town 63.90€, tourist town of course, could have been worse.

I did try getting into Albergue El Convento but they didn't reply to my emails and I couldn't get the phone number to work.

Oh well, let's see what tomorrow brings.

 

[Wandalina]

Day 2 to Boo and then Santillana del Mar

Our accommodation was actually very pleasant and we got breakfast before 0800 hrs for 3€ each.

The walk out was pleasant and the pathway was good. Too good in fact as we had somehow gone off route early.

Taking the coastal route means checking my GPS route very often as there are a lot of opportunities to get it wrong.

I'm mostly using the Norte app, and the route is maybe 90% correct. But my biggest frustration with this app is that when you close your screen and then open it again, say 10 mins later, it mostly does not show your location. I needed to close the app and reopen it to force it to locate me. It doesn't sound much of a problem, but on this coastal option that means every 15 or so minutes and that proved a frustration in this heat.

When we got to Playa de Covachos the path dips a bit and then goes up a bit. The easy path to the left is someone's garden. So, take the rougher other option. It showed a path to the right 10 m up but we ignored it and followed the GPS route another 20m to the official route. But we bumped into a local who said that route was not used and we should backtrack to the other route. We checked it out and sure enough, it was overgrown with brambles.

When we got to Playa de la Arnia the route took us around the cafe but on the exit it tried to take us down a vertical drop, no path in sight. That is very dangerous as some people might be tempted to try. We walked up and around to get back to the path.

On to Playa de Cerrias where we found the path taped with danger tape. So, we walked through the town a short distance to rejoin, but found more danger tape. Lots of dead ends in this town, so frustration won out and we went straight up to the main road and walked around this part of the route and rejoined about 1km out of town.

A very beautiful 2nd day, of which I have added my favourite snap.

I would say that up to La Maruca there are a lot of people about if you got into difficulties. But after that, we met very few people, so maybe best to do this route in pairs as there are a lot of tripping opportunities.

We travelled 12.9kms to Boo today.

So, I'd say it's a 2 day walk to Boo and not a 1 day walk.

By the time we got to Boo, we were frustrated, knackered and hot, so we took the train to Mar.

We then sat in a bar with a few cañas, a tortilla and a large bocadillo con jamón y queso before setting off for Santillana del Mar.

So, the walk was long and hot, no cover from the sun, which topped out at 31c.

No open bars until we got to Santillana del Mar and we dropped into the first bar for vino tinto de verano and a large bottle of cold water. Our plan is to do this every time before registering at our accommodation so that we don't arrive on our knees.

It was 12.5kms to Santillana. So, a 25.4km day.

This is day 2 of my washing cycle and in the Santillana laundromat it was 7€ wash 5€ dry.

Our accommodation is Hospedería Santillana on the way out of town 63.90€, tourist town of course, could have been worse.

I did try getting into Albergue El Convento but they didn't reply to my emails and I couldn't get the phone number to work.

Oh well, let's see what tomorrow brings.

Sounds like a tricky path to navigate dont think I'd risk it alone shame though

 

[David with new Kit!]

Santillana del Mar to Comillas

Left at 0700hrs and stopped at Caborredondo in café Los Sopeños for breakfast. Today was a good walk over quiet rural roads through several small villages. Several opportunities for coffee, beer etc . But, snacks are recommended as it's tiring in the sun and energy levels need replenished.

This stretch reminded us of the CF.

The last 100m into Comillas is the worst bit of road today. If your feet are already hurting, you won't appreciate the loose stones.

Our accommodation is a private albergue Albergue La Huella del Camino. It's more boutique than classic albergue. We sat in the square in a bar drinking cider as miraculously we arrived before the rigid 1400hrs check-in. 48€.

Got the washing done by hand and it's out in the sun.

We went to a nearby square for menu del día and very nice it was too. 18€.

It's 1700hrs and now back in the albergue, which is too far from the centre to go exploring. Not to mention that it is up a steep slope and our feet don't want another hill.

Blister and sore feet management today!!

22kms today.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Comillas to Unquera

Great start to the day, breakfast in the albergue.

The albergue itself is very nice, well run, very clean,great clothes washing facilities. Also, very full, all booked up.

As I say, we don't do albergues per se, but Efrén Gonzalez recommended it, so we wanted to try it. All in all it was a nice stop, recommended at 20€ each and 4€ each for breakfast.

Didn't sleep well, albergue life!!

We walked to San Vicente de la Barquera for breakfast and it was a nice scenic route by the coast, great medieval bridge leading into town.

All road/path walking of course, so our feet already ache this early in the day.

Bocadillo and tortilla for our second breakfast.

We did not find anywhere else until Serdio. Very hot at this point, still all road walking so far. Had chiperones a la plancha, for an early lunch, which I enjoyed very much, including the feta cheese stuffing. That is until I realised that the feta was actually squid guts!!

Washed down with a couple of glasses of vino tinto de verano it was very nice though

Another nice walk today, nice villages, nice views. Once you are walking alongside a railway line the end of the walk looms.

Another hot day, the stops were all very welcome. 26.6kms today.

Tomorrow we are meant to be walking to Llanes but with all the road walking taking its toll on us I have added an extra day to give us two short days to Llanes instead of one long one.

Tonight we are staying in Hotel Canal 65€.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Unquera to Pendueles via coastal route

Last night we were not very hungry so we had empeñadas in a cafe near supermarket Lupa and then a sundowner in the cafe on the corner just before the bridge.

I asked about para picar (bar snacks) and they had cacahuete (peanuts ) Strangely enough, it seemed a very popular choice.

We also discovered that breakfast was included in our hotel cost which makes it much more cost effective.

Anyway, Pendueles.

Once you get over the bridge into Bustio, it's a long climb out. Not especially hard, but it seems to go on forever.

It leads to Colombres and as we had a short day today we took the time to read about El Huello de las Indianas and why the large houses with the palm trees exist.

After that we had a slow walk to the coastal route - Loved the coastal route.

Lots of little bays where you could take the time to sit and listen/watch the waves crashing into the rocks.

Cueva de Cobiheru is on this route (a cave) which people recommended going in to but the entrance looked too much like a tripping hazards for me. (Too many years of doing risk assessments )

We got to Pendueles at 1300hrs and checked in. After our shower our host took our washing away for us (prearranged by email) as this was day two of our wash cycle.

We are in La Casa en el Camino and so far we are the only guests. It's a bit Marie Celeste as we are at one end of the house and the lady owner is at her end.

However, downstairs there is a cool salon with a fridge and the fridge is stocked with cold drinks at 2€ a can/bottle. For both of us tonight is 65.45€.

Breakfast is 6€ each, wonder what it will be, might be the most expensive tostada yet!

We went to bar #1 for lunch - closed. We went to bar #2 - full. Getting really hot walking about in our clean clothes to bar #3 - yeah, it was open and had a spare table inside. I was glad as there were only 3 bars in the village.

It was slightly over 14kms from Unquera to our accommodation in Pendueles via the coastal route. It's not a route to be hurried as it's very scenic. If you are on a tight schedule maybe consider the road option.

I attach one picture as an example.

Tomorrow we shall walk the remainder of this stage to Llanes.

 

[Suz2022]

Castillo Siete Villas to Santander

Last night we ate dinner in nearby Café Vicente and had a great time, lots of good choices.

We opted for breakfast in our accommodation once our host kindly offered to serve at 0730hrs instead of the more normal 0830hrs.

What a great breakfast around 7€ for us both. And, we were given cake in foil para llevar.

A great stop.

Our walk to Santander was all on the main road up to Galizano, where we rested our weary feet in one of the three bars (not on the road front).

We decided to take the longer costal route to Somo to break the monotony. We did not enjoying the road walk today. Perhaps the coastal route will be better......

The coastal route is very nice until it reaches the headland around Loredo.

If you use the Norte app it takes you along the beach to Somo. As our feet were taped up today, we declined that option.

If you use the Buen Camino ap it takes you inland through the pine forest. We chose this route.

It was a bad mistake for us as there were multiple paths crossing throughout the woods and "straight ahead" was not always clear. Also, there were no markers to help.

Towards the end, a kind Spanish runner cut short his walk and guided us through the rabbit warren to a proper road, from where we sorted ourselves out.

In Somo we stopped in a restaurant for lunch and to recover.

If we had continued on the road instead of the coastal route it would have been 1.5hrs (ish) . The coastal route took us 3 hrs.

Choices, eh!

It was easy to find the ferry and one was arriving as we got there, first luck of the day. Oh, remember a mask, it's mandatory on board still.

We are now in Santander in a very nice hotel for two nights. So far, our only planned rest day, but who knows....

We might not wander far today as we ache all over, especially our feet.

Good luck with your choices today.

I had a great half-day in Galizano today, including the amazing beach just east of the one the Camino leads to. Tomorrow, since I'm going to Santillana del Mar (for reasons), I'll take CA 141 based on your advice. I'll be early enough that I won't notice that it's generic. I'll also take a bus partway from Santander in order to spend time there and still reach my target hotel. I'm no purist!

 

[David with new Kit!]

I had a great half-day in Galizano today, including the amazing beach just east of the one the Camino leads to. Tomorrow, since I'm going to Santillana del Mar (for reasons), I'll take CA 141 based on your advice. I'll be early enough that I won't notice that it's generic. I'll also take a bus partway from Santander in order to spend time there and still reach my target hotel. I'm no purist!

I agree with your choice.
The only bit that really counts towards your Compostela is the last 100kms.

So, do your camino your way

 

[David with new Kit!]

Pendueles to Llanes

Long lie in today, 0730hrs breakfast and then set off through Pendueles to pick up the coastal route again. Except, we didn't.

There is cemetery a good bit out of town and we seemed to have missed the right turn and kept sailing on.

It was only when we saw the sign post for Bufones de Arenillas that we realised we were off track. Thankfully, only 1km.

So, path duly found again we set off to find the Bufones. There are two here.

The first one is unexciting and just looked like a hole in the ground. It must be said that unless it's high tide and a good swell on, that's all they are.

However, in contrast, the one a little bit beyond it was more exciting as it was fascinating to hear it "breath" with the waves.

We carried onto get my breakfast beer in Andrin. Café Esther is on the way out of town, but just off route and easy to miss. So, eyes open on the left after you pass the old church. If you are lucky there will be a white horse standing in the corner of the garden opposite the lane.

Make sure you have a rest here as very soon you have along twisty climb.

When you get to the top you can turn right to the mirador, but it was too busy today. Look down, wow, what a wonderful beach. Look left and see Llanes closer than you expected

When you start walking you have two choices of route. Down the road or walk across the road and walk alongside the hill. We went straight across and while the views above Llanes were superb, it was very hot with no cover. It was also a bit longer. Choices again...

On arriving in Llanes it was very busy, so we went to a bar to recuperate and were delighted to find our private albergue was a 2 min walk away, but not open for another half hour.

So, we are in yet another bar with tinto de verano and the menu del día (14€).

Much better than loitering outside the albergue.

Our 14km day turned out to be 17kms with our diversions and route choices.

We are now in Pilgrim only Albergue la Casona del Peregrino @ 65€ it seems well overpriced for a very basic double room. Don't get me wrong, it's basic, it's clean, the bathroom and shower are fine. But, I stayed in a very nice Casa Rural last night for the same price.

The same room is 10€ cheaper on Monday night. Incidentally, the weekend pricing and availability issues are not just here in Llanes. Tomorrow we have to go to Ribadesella to get a room as everything in-between seems snatched up or they want two nights out of you.

30kms to some of you might be a stroll in the park, but our comfort zone is 20-25kms.

We are still doing blister and sore feet management, so we are not looking forward to tomorrow's walk.

 

[Suz2022]

The same room is 10€ cheaper on Monday night. Incidentally, the weekend pricing and availability issues are not just here in Llanes. Tomorrow we have to go to Ribadesella to get a room as everything in-between seems snatched up or they want two nights out of you.

Even booking all my Camino lodgings before coming to Spain, I ran into similar availability and 2-night minimum requirements. So, I've ended up with a seesaw of long and short days.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Llanes to Ribadesella

Last night we did our usual trick of pan aux chocolate para llevar from a cake shop for breakfast as we were leaving at 0700hrs. Good call.

(Today, as we are having to walk further than intended we decided that we had to skip the coastal route as it would be too much for us today.)

We spotted our first open café just out of Llanes where you cross the rail track, it was too early to stop so we carried on. We didn't find another café open for another 10kms, in Naves, there were two together.

Breakfast beer, café y pintxos .

We took a wrong turning some where and came under the autovía into Piñeres instead of arriving alongside it. But the good news is we found a random bar on the other side, and it's open - yeah. No food though, boo. So no lunch yet ( 1305hrs ).

Next bar, hopefully.

In Cuerres we found no open bar but exiting the town we came upon a sign saying "Bar Anton 150m".

We initially thought 150m, yeah right, and kept walking. But a quick look at Google maps showed it open.

It's a bit more than a bar or cafe, it's a full on restaurant and it was booked solid. But, the owner asked if we were peregrinos. The answer of course was yes, as we stood expiring on his floor.

But, he was great, found us a table and looked after us well. Great meal and several vino tinto de verano set us up nicely for the rest of the walk.

The walk was nice today, but very hot again.

We are in Hotel Derli Sella. 100€ for a two star hotel. Believe me, we tried lots of options but this was the nearest accommodation from Llanes, and this is full.

Today is day two, so the clothes are in the lavandería 5€ wash 3€ dry, wow, great price.

We set a PB walking today of 32kms. Our feet are still refusing to speak nicely to us.

On the plus side, tomorrow is 6kms shorter due to today being longer.

Let's see what tomorrow brings.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Ribadesella to Colunga

We left late, around 0800hrs as we were tired after our long walk yesterday. Last night we bought supplies for breakfast in our room as the accommodation does not start breakfast until 0800hrs.

As usual, there was nowhere open en route so we had an early morning stop to drink orange juice and breakfast bars from our emergency stash.

However, we stopped in La Isla for coffee, and La Isla was very busy with weekenders. We had a very slow day due to swelling in front of shin of my beloved. Strangely, blisters and sore feet behaving themselves today. But yesterday is beginning to take its toll.

Today was a 21 km day with easy walking albeit under a hot sun.

We are now in Hotel Las Vegas (honestly) @ 65€ it's very nice with a good restaurant and bar downstairs, so we don't need to walk anywhere.

I attach a picture of my beloved with an ice pack on her shin.

Let's see what tomorrow brings

 

[peregrina2000]

I attach a picture of my beloved with an ice pack on her shin.

If that ice pack is because of shin splints, @David with new Kit!, let me humbly suggest that if your beloved is still at the point that the pain goes away overnight, stretching a lot in the morning, at breaks, and after walking, works wonders. Just Google stretches shin splints and you’ll find the standard routine. If it’s become chronic that may be more complicated but I don’t think the stretches could hurt. Buen camino!

 

[David with new Kit!]

If that ice pack is because of shin splints, @David with new Kit!, let me humbly suggest that if your beloved is still at the point that the pain goes away overnight, stretching a lot in the morning, at breaks, and after walking, works wonders. Just Google stretches shin splints and you’ll find the standard routine. If it’s become chronic that may be more complicated but I don’t think the stretches could hurt. Buen camino!

Thank you
Yes, still uncomfortable tonight and I had to make a decision about walking tomorrow. To help ensure we finish the Norte I have booked the bus to Villaviciosa tomorrow and then we will reassess the following stage, which is 30kms to Gijón so we will probably skip that too.

It will give her all day to try the stretches.

I was wondering how best to deal with possible shin splints. Thank you very much for the advice.

 

[Suz2022]

I attach a picture of my beloved with an ice pack on her shin.

Let's see what tomorrow brings

Your beloved is a trouper, and clearly knows the importance of self-medicating. I hope 2 days' bus rides does the trick for her; it worked wonders for me after my knees blew up on my day from Munitibar to Zamudio.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Your beloved is a trouper, and clearly knows the importance of self-medicating. I hope 2 days' bus rides does the trick for her; it worked wonders for me after my knees blew up on my day from Munitibar to Zamudio.

We are working hard on it. I'll report back once we have a resolution one way or another. Better than it was two days ago though

 

[Damien Reynolds]

But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them

Whoa! Maybe depends on where you purchased them? Or inflation? In April 2022 in Irun, like that's a few months ago, I paid 40€ for a pair (and I thought THAT was expensive!)

In SJPdP the previous October, it was 20€ for a pair!

I get the cheapest ones always, bummer on the price.

Glad they were worth it though!

 

[David with new Kit!]

Whoa! Maybe depends on where you purchased them? Or inflation? In April 2022 in Irun, like that's a few months ago, I paid 40€ for a pair (and I thought THAT was expensive!)

In SJPdP the previous October, it was 20€ for a pair!

I get the cheapest ones always, bummer on the price.

Glad they were worth it though!

On the Frances i paid around 25€ so it was a bit of a shock to me too. We visited several sports shops and that was the best on the day.

40€ would be super , if you can remember where, perhaps you can share with the forum where you got your poles, to try and avoid my price. (And the running around that we had to do)

We got ours at Intersport.

And yes, a very worthy purchase it turned out

 

[David with new Kit!]

Colunga to.........

So, the swelling has gone down but the foot will not extend fully due to some pain still in the shin. But definitely better than yesterday afternoon.

I think the ice helped with the swelling.

We booked bus tickets online and got to Villaviciosa where we were able to check into Albergue Congresso at 1300hrs.

I had booked a double room (bunk bed) but as there were two of us and I had added on towels, sheets etc. the lady on reception told me instead of staying in the Albergue it was the same price for a triple room in the Hotel with private bathroom - Yeah, of course, I accepted.

At the washing machine a German girl beat me to it, but, she paid for the washing and I paid for the drying. Win, win

It's fiesta time here tonight so most shops are closed.

Tomorrow will be another day of rest in Gijón so I need to sort out bus tickets again.

Gijón
We stayed in Hotel Avenida 55€ because it was close to the bus station. It turned out to be a nice 1* hotel. Leg much better today, more ice last night and the foot can extend forward much better. Getting bus to Avilés today for a look around for a few hours and then get our connection to Muros de Nalon (going direct proved too hard, it was easier booking a split journey)

Avilés
Biblioteca café a short way into town - Good stop for a breakfast before a connection. We got the earlier bus from Gijón as we realised our bus ticket was not tied to the booked time (don't know about using it on a later bus though)

Muros de Nalon
We are staying in a private apartment Ático Chic con Encanto 68€. Very nice, good communication with the owners too. It's got a washer, but no dryer. Can recommend it.

So, all in all we decided that we would use Correos to move our backpacks and start walking tomorrow to Soto de Luiña, except, this lovely apartment has no reception, so Correos can't collect.

I read in the forum and on the Correos website that as long as we can get the backpacks to a recognised pickup point all would be well.

So, feeling fired up with that knowledge I approached Albergue Camino de la Costa. The conversation did not go well. It seems that unless I'm staying there they can't help me.

It put me off trying elsewhere (nowhere else near here anyway)

So, I'm not prepared to risk the recovery of my beloved by carrying a backpack tomorrow so it's another bus day and another rest day in Soto de Luiña. I'm getting good at navigating Spanish bus websites

However, the following four days accommodation have been booked and they are all Correos collect points. Hopefully after tomorrow we shall be back walking, albeit with very light day packs.

There is a storm breaking at the moment so maybe I'm not too unhappy .

I shall hopefully have good news to report after Soto de Luiña.

 

[Suz2022]

On the Frances i paid around 25€ so it was a bit of a shock to me too. We visited several sports shops and that was the best on the day.

40€ would be super , if you can remember where, perhaps you can share with the forum where you got your poles, to try and avoid my price. (And the running around that we had to do)

We got ours at Intersport.

And yes, a very worthy purchase it turned out

I got a pair at Decathlon in Irún for €16,50 on Aug 30th. Still holding up quite well!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

I got a pair at Decathlon in Irún for €16,50 on Aug 30th. Still holding up quite well!

I love that store! Thing is, in Irun, isn't it on kinda the outskirts of town? Did you take a cab or walk, and how long did it take?

 

[Suz2022]

I love that store! Thing is, in Irun, isn't it on kinda the outskirts of town? Did you take a cab or walk, and how long did it take?

I walked. it was a good way to loosen up after my redeye into Madrid and connection to Hondarribia ( I also walked from Hondarribia to Irún, because it's so cool to walk from an airport!) It wasn't a pleasant walk to and from Decathlon, but life isn't always pleasant!

 

[Suz2022]

I walked. it was a good way to loosen up after my redeye into Madrid and connection to Hondarribia ( I also walked from Hondarribia to Irún, because it's so cool to walk from an airport!) It wasn't a pleasant walk to and from Decathlon, but life isn't always pleasant!

Oops. Don't know how long it took to do that walk, but it wasn't crazy...

 

[David with new Kit!]

I got a pair at Decathlon in Irún for €16,50 on Aug 30th. Still holding up quite well!

I was robbed !!!!!!

Still, it's a good pair, and I might take them home instead of donating like the last pair

 

[Wandalina]

I got a pair at Decathlon in Irún for €16,50 on Aug 30th. Still holding up quite well!

Was wondering had anyone been there planning on making a dash for it next Tuesday eve before i start. Is it difficult to get to?

 

[Wandalina]

Colunga to.........

So, the swelling has gone down but the foot will not extend fully due to some pain still in the shin. But definitely better than yesterday afternoon.

I think the ice helped with the swelling.

We booked bus tickets online and got to Villaviciosa where we were able to check into Albergue Congresso at 1300hrs.

I had booked a double room (bunk bed) but as there were two of us and I had added on towels, sheets etc. the lady on reception told me instead of staying in the Albergue it was the same price for a triple room in the Hotel with private bathroom - Yeah, of course, I accepted.

At the washing machine a German girl beat me to it, but, she paid for the washing and I paid for the drying. Win, win

It's fiesta time here tonight so most shops are closed.

Tomorrow will be another day of rest in Gijón so I need to sort out bus tickets again.

Gijón
We stayed in Hotel Avenida 55€ because it was close to the bus station. It turned out to be a nice 1* hotel. Leg much better today, more ice last night and the foot can extend forward much better. Getting bus to Avilés today for a look around for a few hours and then get our connection to Muros de Nalon (going direct proved too hard, it was easier booking a split journey)

Avilés
Biblioteca café a short way into town - Good stop for a breakfast before a connection. We got the earlier bus from Gijón as we realised our bus ticket was not tied to the booked time (don't know about using it on a later bus though)

Muros de Nalon
We are staying in a private apartment Ático Chic con Encanto 68€. Very nice, good communication with the owners too. It's got a washer, but no dryer. Can recommend it.

So, all in all we decided that we would use Correos to move our backpacks and start walking tomorrow to Soto de Luiña, except, this lovely apartment has no reception, so Correos can't collect.

I read in the forum and on the Correos website that as long as we can get the backpacks to a recognised pickup point all would be well.

So, feeling fired up with that knowledge I approached Albergue Camino de la Costa. The conversation did not go well. It seems that unless I'm staying there they can't help me.

It put me off trying elsewhere (nowhere else near here anyway)

So, I'm not prepared to risk the recovery of my beloved by carrying a backpack tomorrow so it's another bus day and another rest day in Soto de Luiña. I'm getting good at navigating Spanish bus websites

However, the following four days accommodation have been booked and they are all Correos collect points. Hopefully after tomorrow we shall be back walking, albeit with very light day packs.

There is a storm breaking at the moment so maybe I'm not too unhappy .

I shall hopefully have good news to report after Soto de Luiña.

Best of luck to you both getting back on the road. Hope your 'beloved' has had time to heal. Ps love that you call her that Happy walking

 

[DitaK]

Thank you @David with new Kit! for all these posts! Very good tips for my upcoming Camino del Norte in October. I’ve been reading this thread daily and it helps in planning too. Both of you, stay strong and safe, buen camino!

 

[David with new Kit!]

Soto de Luiña to Cadavedo

Last night we stayed in Hotel Las Apartamentos Hortona 49€. Very nice too. Washing facilities if needed.

It's a small town, it has a nice upmarket restaurant on the way in, but not what we wanted. There is a bar on the left a bit further on as you enter town, which seems to be the first watering hole, it's a bit small, inside only. But, hold on 150m and there is a larger bar in a square on your right, Bar ECU seems to be the name. Sells sandwiches, hamburgers, pintxos etc but not a meal as such. The burger is really nice though and seemed a popular choice.

There is a nice restaurant at the exit to town, which does menu del día. And, a lovely breakfast from 0730hrs.

So, Correos are now booked all the way to Santiago. I've never done this before, but needs must. It was very easy to do online.

BTW- in Gijón we went to the Correos office to get an "etiqueta de equipaje" (luggage tag). We now know that it is only used when you PAYG and put your money into it each stage. The electronic tag I needed is emailed to you after booking. You can ask your reception to have the confirmation tag printed out. But, if you can't do that you can write your details on the etiqueta instead. (That's the theory).

It's not easy attaching a paper tag to a rucksack but we had brought small ziplock freezer bags with us and they worked a treat, allowing string through the plastic to attach to the rucksack. If we had known, we would have brought proper see through tags with us. We have not found any enroute despite looking

Anyway, we are now in San Marino having a sandwich and coffee before setting off again. This is the halfway point of today.

Tip - If the cafe in San Marino is not serving menu del día, just have a drink and walk to Bellota where the restaurant at the end of town serves a lovely menu del día for 12€ - wow. The chiperones in ink were delicious.

No stops now until Cadavedo.

So, we had not had the expected confirmation from Correos that our rucksacks were collected and delivered. So, I dropped them an email and within minutes they confirmed all was good and apologized for the missing email confirmation. The rucksacks were at the accommodation when we arrived. All is well in my world.

When you get to Playa de Ballota you are only 50m from the stoney beach. But, go down and see the cliffs from the beach - lovely, don't miss it.

We walked 20.5kms today, but don't be fooled into thinking its going to be a short day. There are a lot of ups and downs, it's a great walk, but you have to work hard for it.

Our accommodation in Cadavedo tonight is Casa Ina 30€ for a twin bed room with private bathroom. What a little gem, which we found on the internet. The chap that runs it speaks no English, so have your request on Google translate if you have no Spanish.

Shin Splints
We are in a much better place today thanks to the advice which @peregrina2000 sent to me.

The three days rest was very necessary.
We started our walk today at the pace we expected to finish.
Ice pack every night, i bought ice from the supermarket and put into a zip lock freezer bag (need to buy some ice tonight)
Regular massage of the shin. The shin started to show signs of swelling several times today but we stopped each time and I massaged her shin. I was very impressed how quickly the swelling and discomfort went down each time.
Stretching exercises as often as possible.

Not out of the woods yet, but we got a day of walking completed. Hopefully all will be well in the morning.

 

[Wandalina]

Soto de Luiña to Cadavedo

Last night we stayed in Hotel Las Apartamentos Hortona 49€. Very nice too. Washing facilities if needed.

It's a small town, it has a nice upmarket restaurant on the way in, but not what we wanted. There is a bar on the left a bit further on as you enter town, which seems to be the first watering hole, it's a bit small, inside only. But, hold on 150m and there is a larger bar in a square on your right, Bar ECU seems to be the name. Sells sandwiches, hamburgers, pintxos etc but not a meal as such. The burger is really nice though and seemed a popular choice.

There is a nice restaurant at the exit to town, which does menu del día. And, a lovely breakfast from 0730hrs.

So, Correos are now booked all the way to Santiago. I've never done this before, but needs must. It was very easy to do online.

BTW- in Gijón we went to the Correos office to get an "etiqueta de equipaje" (luggage tag). We now know that it is only used when you PAYG and put your money into it each stage. The electronic tag I needed is emailed to you after booking. You can ask your reception to have the confirmation tag printed out. But, if you can't do that you can write your details on the etiqueta instead. (That's the theory).

It's not easy attaching a paper tag to a rucksack but we had brought small ziplock freezer bags with us and they worked a treat, allowing string through the plastic to attach to the rucksack. If we had known, we would have brought proper see through tags with us. We have not found any enroute despite looking

Anyway, we are now in San Marino having a sandwich and coffee before setting off again. This is the halfway point of today.

Tip - If the cafe in San Marino is not serving menu del día, just have a drink and walk to Bellota where the restaurant at the end of town serves a lovely menu del día for 12€ - wow. The chiperones in ink were delicious.

No stops now until Cadavedo.

So, we had not had the expected confirmation from Correos that our rucksacks were collected and delivered. So, I dropped them an email and within minutes they confirmed all was good and apologized for the missing email confirmation. The rucksacks were at the accommodation when we arrived. All is well in my world.

When you get to Playa de Ballota you are only 50m from the stoney beach. But, go down and see the cliffs from the beach - lovely, don't miss it.

We walked 20.5kms today, but don't be fooled into thinking its going to be a short day. There are a lot of ups and downs, it's a great walk, but you have to work hard for it.

Our accommodation in Cadavedo tonight is Casa Ina 30€ for a twin bed room with private bathroom. What a little gem, which we found on the internet. The chap that runs it speaks no English, so have your request on Google translate if you have no Spanish.

Shin Splints
We are in a much better place today thanks to the advice which @peregrina2000 sent to me.

The three days rest was very necessary.
We started our walk today at the pace we expected to finish.
Ice pack every night, i bought ice from the supermarket and put into a zip lock freezer bag (need to buy some ice tonight)
Regular massage of the shin. The shin started to show signs of swelling several times today but we stopped each time and I massaged her shin. I was very impressed how quickly the swelling and discomfort went down each time.
Stretching exercises as often as possible.

Not out of the woods yet, but we got a day of walking completed. Hopefully all will be well in the morning.

Great that you are back on the road. Sound like it's going well. Thanks for all the info on the bag transfer never really knew how it works. Handy if its ever necessary.. What a great service

 

[Suz2022]

I love that store! Thing is, in Irun, isn't it on kinda the outskirts of town? Did you take a cab or walk, and how long did it take?

I thought I replied, but don't see it here. I walked to the Irún Decathlon. Not the nicest walk, but it was safe, and a good way to keep loose (and stay awake) after my red-eye and connecting flight. I was staying at the Ibis on that side of town, so my timing isn't a good reference!

 

[Suz2022]

Was wondering had anyone been there planning on making a dash for it next Tuesday eve before i start. Is it difficult to get to?

It's not a pretty walk, but it's fairly easy; just use Buen Camino or Google Maps to guide you. Or, support a local and take a taxi there and walk back! (If you're staying at the Albergue, that might be a better choice). There may be bus options; I don't recall. Good luck!

 

[David with new Kit!]

Cadavedo to Luarca

Not a lot to do in Cadavedo so I went out to collect ice for the ice pack. I may or may not have also gone to the adjoining bar for a couple of cañas .

I also bought croissants for our breakfast.

We set off at 0755hrs and the walk was very enjoyable.

At Canero you will think you have missed the the cafe, but you have not. It is over the river and under the big road bridge. Just keep following the road.

Check your app here as depending on the route you are following you can short circuit the big loop in the road.

At Barcia a man came from his garden and gave us a big handful of peaches which he had plucked from his tree for us. A lovely man.

So, we crossed the river in Luarca to our accommodation, Hotel Rico 60€ in the main square. Had a drink in the square and realised we were paying tourist prices .

So, of course, we crossed the river again and found a lovely restaurant overlooking the harbour, eating seafood that was recently landed. Bliss @15€ for menú del día. (20€ in the square)

Laundry beckons as this is day two in our laundry cycle. Then a little walk, maybe some drinks and then down to practicalities, leg massage for my beloved, ice pack, book more accommodation, add it to Correos.

Luarca is a lovely seaside town, try to stop here if you can.

Only 17.3kms from Cadavedo today

 

[David with new Kit!]

Luarca to Navia

We left at 0700hrs this morning as we are still walking very slowly. (Breakfast in our room again)

When you leave town, if you are climbing stairs, go back it's the wrong way. It's the road climb you want.

If you are using the Norte app you will see that between Otur and Bao there is a red route alternative to cut out the loop around the hill.

DONT TAKE IT!! - We did, unfortunately. The underpass turns out to be a storm drain with difficult access, but as it was a marked route, we persevered. It's a long dark tunnel and at its end is a bramble thicket which I could see, people had tried. So, as it was an option in the app, we tried it.

Disaster!! We got maybe 30m along the path before we realised it was getting harder and narrower and the brambles were getting worse. So, we cut our losses and got back out the storm drain.

My beloved had to clean the deep scratches in my legs (I was in front) and apply a soothing cream (sudocrem, actually). I'm quite sure people have gone in there and never reappeared!!

The option should never have been available, it's dangerous.

It increased our day from 20kms to 24kms.

Anyway, otherwise it was a nice easy walk to Navia. We stopped in Villapedre at Restaurant Villapedre for our second breakfast and I ignored my usual breakfast beer and had liquor hierbas. Which is the yellow version of Spanish fire water to settle my nerves

When we arrived at Navia we continued with our top tip of having a drink to cool down before signing in. Well, being a Sunday nothing was open. But, the hotel is close to the bus station and it's actually got a very nice restaurant attached. Raciones and platos combinados

Good food at a reasonable price if you don't fancy menu del día.

Our accommodation tonight is Hotel Casona Naviega @ 60€. Very nice it is too.

Shower beckons, then find ice, make more bookings et.

Oh yes, Correos are so far doing a good job for us.

 

[Suz2022]

Soto de Luiña

It's a small town, it has a nice upmarket restaurant on the way in, but not what we wanted. There is a bar on the left a bit further on as you enter town, which seems to be the first watering hole, it's a bit small, inside only. But, hold on 150m and there is a larger bar in a square on your right, Bar ECU seems to be the name. Sells sandwiches, hamburgers, pintxos etc but not a meal as such. The burger is really nice though and seemed a popular choice.

There is a nice restaurant at the exit to town, which does menu del día. And, a lovely breakfast from 0730hrs.

I've started to mark your food recommendations into my guide, and was happy with a large chorizo bocadillo at Bar ECU (with un café americano). I also highly recommend Panaderia La Estrella, which is right underneath Bar ECU. Since I was feeling good after stocking up at Día, I had another coffee at Valle Las Luiñas on the way out of town. Too early to try their menu del día.

 

[David with new Kit!]

I've started to mark your food recommendations into my guide, and was happy with a large chorizo bocadillo at Bar ECU (with un café americano). I also highly recommend Panaderia La Estrella, which is right underneath Bar ECU. Since I was feeling good after stocking up at Día, I had another coffee at Valle Las Luiñas on the way out of town. Too early to try their menu del día.

Im pleased that my little tips are of use

 

[David with new Kit!]

Navia to Tapia

We left at 0730hrs and managed to get breakfast in town. Which was just as well as there was nowhere to stop until La Caridad. (10kms)

It was a straightforward walk today, the only long climb was out of Navia.

We are in Hotel de La Ruta tonight @ 40.50€, basic but very nice

There is no laundry in town for our day two wash but the Hotel has washed our clothes and they went on the line on the roof. Great service. The roof is a bit open and I was not allowed to go alone (sensible really). The owner showed me posts set in the roof floor for future wind panels where he hopes to floor it and give guests a sun area. Also, wonderful views of the bay. I wish him well.

We showered, had a couple of beers then went for something to eat. Then we bought ice for the nightly ice pack. During the day we have to stop regular to massage the leg, but otherwise we are still moving forward.

A 21.12kms day.

We had a late lunch down by the harbour in El Náutico del Tapia. What a meal, what a backdrop

We found out that the Hotel café opens at 0700hrs tomorrow morning. As we have a relatively short day to Ribadeo, we shall partake.

 

[peregrina2000]

Glad to see you are walking and there’s no mention of shin splints!

I highly recommend taking a cab out and back to see the Catedrales beach. If you can get there at low tide, it is wonderful.

In summer you have to reserve an entrance spot, but my guess is that you wouldn’t have to worry about that now. It’s easy to find the times of low and high tide on the Internet. Buen camino.

 

[Former member 49149]

I second that recommendation. Take your swimwear. One of the far caves on the right has two entrances, and plenty of depth for a swim!

 

[David with new Kit!]

Tapia to Ribadeo
So, the owner declined payment for our washing, instead asking that we have breakfast in the morning. As he opened at 0700hrs that was our plan anyway

We had a nice leisurely breakfast and set out on our walk. It's a really nice flat walk today. Part of it reminded us of a mini meseta .

Note - If you are using the Norte app you will no doubt want to take the coast route out of Tapia (it's not on the Buen Camino app).

So, we took the coastal route and followed the yellow arrows. It wasn't until too late that we realised that we should not have followed them and that we had wandered back to the inland route. No matter.

You would think that after 40yrs of marriage that we would be walking in blissful silence and paying attention. Not the case with us two!!

Continue along the route to the restaurant on the hill at the end of Playa de Penarronda for a second breakfast and you will be rewarded with the attached view. At 8.40€ for two coffees and one orange juice it's not the cheapest, but the view is nice.

Immediately after the stop the route takes a left turn but the Norte app shows a coastal route option straight ahead, which we took. It's easy walking, I recommend using the app for this as mostly it's not marked anywhere.

As you approach the bridge to Ribadeo you need to decide if you want to view the town (left lane) or the estuary (right lane).

Staying in Hospedaxe Carragal tonight @ 47€. Very nice, and pleased with our choice.

Our walk was 13.4kms today. It's short, as I had added in an extra day to shorten our average kms over the last 5 days due to managing shin splints. (All going well on that front).

We ate lunch in Restaurant Fumarel, predominantly sea food. But good choices all around. The Padrón peppers were awesome.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Ribadeo to Lourenza
Our accommodation had a basic breakfast, which we took, and as it's a long day we left at 0700hrs.

This morning was 11c and it was the first time I had worn two layers in this trip. Bbrrrrr.

We reached the restaurant in Vilela to find it closed. So, we are pleased we brought supplies and sat in the chairs and munched.

After you pass Aponte you have a nice climb, but it's a looooong 5km climb

Next stop is Villamartin Grande which has a cafe, Tentempé Peregrino, it has empeñadas and bocadillos, but not menu del día.

In San Xusto, Restaurant A Curva was meant to be open, but was closed. Bar A Curva next door was open, but no food.

A long stretch without a proper lunch.

27.7kms today and as we were walking super slow we were in good condition on arrival. Indeed, after checking into our accommodation Pension Alberge O Pedregal 54€ (it's very nice) we went straight out for a late lunch. Then we showered and then took advantage of the laundry facilities.

There is a lavadora @3.50€ and a secadora @3€ or you can hand wash and lay out in the sun.

Correos are still performing well.

Next task is to decide where in Santiago to stay for two nights as a treat

 

[David with new Kit!]

Lourenza to Abadin
We left just after 0700hrs and had breakfast in the same café as we had dinner last night.

The walk to Mondoñedo was nice as was the cathedral and we had a second breakfast in a cafe opposite.

From here there is an option to take the shorter harder route (c. 4kms shorter) or the regular route to Gontán.

We chose the regular route as we didn't want to put unnecessary stress on my beloveds leg.

You will spend a long time going up, even when you think it's done, it's not. Both routes are unsupported and this one is 15kms. If you find yourself struggling a bit, the Repsol service station a lot later in the walk has a cafe attached to it. It's also the point when you are nearly done with the climbing.

We descended into Gontán and although the first bar was inviting, it only served snacks so we continued on 1km more to Abadin.

Our accommodation is Pension Albergue Casa Goas @48€ for private accommodation with bathroom. It's also got a comedor where we enjoyed menu del día for 11€ each!!

They also open at 0600hrs for breakfast. What a great place

Today from Lourenza to Abadin was 25.7kms.

 

[Suz2022]

. If you find yourself struggling a bit, the Repsol service station a lot later in the walk has a cafe attached to it. It's also the point when you are nearly done with the climbing.

I just discovered Repsol for coffee today. In my case it was in Figueras, just before that (scary-to-me) bridge crossing into Ribadeo. The locals even use it as their panaderia.

 

[David with new Kit!]

I just discovered Repsol for coffee today. In my case it was in Figueras, just before that (scary-to-me) bridge crossing into Ribadeo. The locals even use it as their panaderia.

You will overtake me at this rate. We are of course in Vilalba tonight. I'll post later tonight.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Abadin to Vilalba
Breakfast in our accommodation was good at 7€ each. We left at 0740hrs and it was still dark, so the head torches came out as we were quickly on the dark back paths.

It's a nice easy flattish walk so far.

As you approach Martiñan you will see a sign to the left saying 'Bar'. I checked on Google maps and it showed open.

We found it ok, on a corner, and it looked closed. But, it was just the dark windows, it was open. Cross the road and open the door. Ahhh, it's been days since I had my breakfast beer .

Keep walking to Goiriz and as you approach the main road the Camino goes left. Look right and see a Gothic looking cemetery, look further up the road and see a cafe if you need it.

As you approach Vilalba you will encounter a roundabout and there is a restaurant if a rest stop is required before reaching your accommodation.

Now in our accommodation for tonight, a bit of pampering, as it's the Parador. Before anyone judges me too harshly, it's cheaper than some Pensiónes and Hotels we have stayed in so far!!

We had menu del día outside of the Parador (they no longer do the menu del peregrino). It was 11.50€, truly we are no longer in tourist land.

I'm in the lavandería as this is day two of my wash cycle. 7€ wash and dry

Changed over from the lavadora to the secadora, back to the Irish bar opposite to wait it's completion.

Now in the hotel bar with vino tinto de verano. Been to the supermarket for supplies as we have a long day tomorrow.

 

[Suz2022]

You will overtake me at this rate. We are of course in Vilalba tonight. I'll post later tonight.

If I catch up, I get to buy you and your "no longer suffering" wife a vinto tinto for all the great advice you've shared! I'm 2 days behind you. It'll be tough at this point, but hope springs eternal!

 

[David with new Kit!]

Vilalba to Parga
We left this morning at 0700hrs and found an open café for breakfast, coffee, zumo and tostadas @10€ for everything. The back lanes are dark, so a torch is recommended. You go straight into your first climb (and only climb of note), but it is straightforward, on to San Xoan de Alba.

Leaving San Xoan de Alba you pop out at the main road. In front of you is another gothic cemetery.

If you look to your right you will see Café Cascudo, which Google confirmed was open.

Back to the main road and turn right, or left behind the cafe to rejoin the Camino.

It's all flat, until a very small rise leading to Baamonde. The road walking is tedious now and our feet hurt. Walk down the main Street and at the bottom you will find two bars and a pharmacy.

Now sitting with a beer and some snacks (shoes are off) before setting off again.

The walking today is easy walking, but hard on the feet, as it's nearly all asphalt of some kind.

Various options from here and we are taking the shorter route out of town along the mind numbing road. Later, you need to decide which route you are taking to Sabrado dos Monxes.

We took the right hand route as with Parga Natura now being available it makes this route easier to get to Sabrado dos Monxes.

This is a wonderful place, very clean and very well run. Prices are good and lunch and/or dinner is available.

This map has been posted in another thread by @Globalroaming074 and it was he who gave me the tips to do this route.

It's a great option, so I have posted the map here again.

27kms today from Vilalba.

Looking forward to dinner tonight as I've read good reviews about the food here (as well as the accommodation).

 

[David with new Kit!]

If I catch up, I get to buy you and your "no longer suffering" wife a vinto tinto for all the great advice you've shared! I'm 2 days behind you. It'll be tough at this point, but hope springs eternal!

Haha, I'll hold you to it.

 

[Wandalina]

Loving the norte so far we were lucky to get two beautiful days walking from irun but the rain is down for the next few days

 

[Suz2022]

Loving the norte so far we were lucky to get two beautiful days walking from irun but the rain is down for the next few days

Showers and heavy rains off and on today in Galicia, but better than hot days!

 

[Wandalina]

Im coming from Ireland so the sun better come back

 

[David with new Kit!]

Parga to Sobrado dos Monxes
Last night was a communal vegetarian dinner, which was very nice. It's also probably the first time I have had a two course vegetarian dinner, ever.

I found out that breakfast was included in the price. Cereal, coffee, tea. Also, there was a breakfast bag each to either take away, or eat in the dining area. Very nice.

I should also mention that it's colder at night and in the mornings now. Last night, as we were in the outhouse, we wore our tomorrow clothes to bed.

I had my merino hat and gloves ready for the morning as it was only 7c, we also put on our third layer for the first time.

But, still dry, still dodging the rain. It rained while we were in the woods, it rained while we were in a bar, but not otherwise

We got to Taberna la Moda at 0930hrs, and the tortilla is reputed to be the best tortilla on this part of the Camino. But as it was early we would have to wait 20mins for it to be made, so we declined as it was still early in the walk.

It will be around 3.5hrs walking to your next pit stop in As cruces.

The first half of the walk to As Cruces was delightful, but the second half was road again.

The bar in As Cruces might look closed, but it's just the light on the windows. Cross over and try the door.

The walk to Sobrado had yet another long road section. Just before Sobrado there is a route choice (who knew?) Anyway, take the left fork it's nice and easy, downhill into town.

We are staying in Hotel San Marcus @ 68€ with a nice breakfast included.

We asked the host about a recommendation to eat lunch and we ended up in Restaurant As Casiñas with menu peregrino @ 10€ - wow. Leave the hotel turn left and pass the first bar, and then it's on the left down a little lane

This is the second day of my washing routine and it's 7€ wash and dry. The lavandería is just down from the hotel.

I'm sitting in the bar opposite observing from a distance (with the timer set, of course)

Oh bu##er, I put it through the washer twice!!!!

26.5kms today - Is it my imagination or is the walking getting easier since we decided to walk slower??

We hit Arzúa tomorrow and I'm not sure if I'm excited or not to be joining the Frances if it's as busy as it was last year........still....onwards and upwards (westward actually).

 

[David with new Kit!]

Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzúa

Breakfast was lovely, as expected. We left the hotel at 0730hrs and there were already pilgrims out and about.

If the little square and monastery are on your left you are going in the right direction. If either are on your right then you are heading back to Baamonde!

You enter a nice woody area very quickly, but just as quickly get to asphalt again. I reckon 90% of walking today is road walking. Remind me, did I mention the road!!!

On a more pleasing note, when you get to Sendelle, you will pass Santa Maria Iglesia. This has an old fresco in it of the last supper. There was a volunteer on duty today, so we got in, and got a sello too.

After a rather uninspiring walk we entered Arzúa and our accommodation was very early on. We are staying in Vilariño Moscoso @ 45€. We arrived a bit early but we're allowed in to drop of our stuff and to register.

We headed to Pulpería Parillada Europa to eat lunch. What a wonderful non tourist find. Pulpo for 11€, and the other prices followed suit. Even the house white wine was nice.

Pulpo - 11€
Padrón Peppers - 5€
Mixed salad - 5€
Costillas - 9€
Water - 2€
Bottle of white wine - 3.50€
Coffee - 2.40€

What a feast

A wander around, maybe a pilgrim mass tonight, and then early to bed.

 

[Suz2022]

Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzúa

Breakfast was lovely, as expected. We left the hotel at 0730hrs and there were already pilgrims out and about.

If the little square and monastery are on your left you are going in the right direction. If either are on your right then you are heading back to Baamonde!

You enter a nice woody area very quickly, but just as quickly get to asphalt again. I reckon 90% of walking today is road walking. Remind me, did I mention the road!!!

On a more pleasing note, when you get to Sendelle, you will pass Santa Maria Iglesia. This has an old fresco in it of the last supper. There was a volunteer on duty today, so we got in, and got a sello too.

After a rather uninspiring walk we entered Arzúa and our accommodation was very early on. We are staying in Vilariño Moscoso @ 45€. We arrived a bit early but we're allowed in to drop of our stuff and to register.

We headed to Pulpería Parillada Europa to eat lunch. What a wonderful non tourist find. Pulpo for 11€, and the other prices followed suit. Even the house white wine was nice.

Pulpo - 11€
Padrón Peppers - 5€
Mixed salad - 5€
Costillas - 9€
Water - 2€
Bottle of white wine - 3.50€
Coffee - 2.40€

What a feast

A wander around, maybe a pilgrim mass tonight, and then early to bed.

Hope you finished strong!

 

[David with new Kit!]

Hope you finished strong!

We did. Only 20 ahead in the queue for the Compostela when we arrived on Wednesday.

Got to the evening mass and saw the botofumiere in action.

Heading home today

You were two days behind, did you catch up a day or are you arriving today?

Either way, congratulations on your own Camino. Well done

 

[dimdog]

We did. Only 20 ahead in the queue for the Compostela when we arrived on Wednesday.

Got to the evening mass and saw the botofumiere in action.

Heading home today

You were two days behind, did you catch up a day or are you arriving today?

Either way, congratulations on your own Camino. Well done

Well done, thanks for all the updates, brought back great memories......have fun planning the next one

 

[David with new Kit!]

Well done, thanks for all the updates, brought back great memories......have fun planning the next one

Thank you - Much appreciated

 

[donalomahony]

Parga to Sobrado dos Monxes
Last night was a communal vegetarian dinner, which was very nice. It's also probably the first time I have had a two course vegetarian dinner, ever.

I found out that breakfast was included in the price. Cereal, coffee, tea. Also, there was a breakfast bag each to either take away, or eat in the dining area. Very nice.

I should also mention that it's colder at night and in the mornings now. Last night, as we were in the outhouse, we wore our tomorrow clothes to bed.

I had my merino hat and gloves ready for the morning as it was only 7c, we also put on our third layer for the first time.

But, still dry, still dodging the rain. It rained while we were in the woods, it rained while we were in a bar, but not otherwise

We got to Taberna la Moda at 0930hrs, and the tortilla is reputed to be the best tortilla on this part of the Camino. But as it was early we would have to wait 20mins for it to be made, so we declined as it was still early in the walk.

It will be around 3.5hrs walking to your next pit stop in As cruces.

The first half of the walk to As Cruces was delightful, but the second half was road again.

The bar in As Cruces might look closed, but it's just the light on the windows. Cross over and try the door.

The walk to Sobrado had yet another long road section. Just before Sobrado there is a route choice (who knew?) Anyway, take the left fork it's nice and easy, downhill into town.

We are staying in Hotel San Marcus @ 68€ with a nice breakfast included.

We asked the host about a recommendation to eat lunch and we ended up in Restaurant As Casiñas with menu peregrino @ 10€ - wow. Leave the hotel turn left and pass the first bar, and then it's on the left down a little lane

This is the second day of my washing routine and it's 7€ wash and dry. The lavandería is just down from the hotel.

I'm sitting in the bar opposite observing from a distance (with the timer set, of course)

Oh bu##er, I put it through the washer twice!!!!

26.5kms today - Is it my imagination or is the walking getting easier since we decided to walk slower??

We hit Arzúa tomorrow and I'm not sure if I'm excited or not to be joining the Frances if it's as busy as it was last year........still....onwards and upwards (westward actually).

Thanks David, checking in on you again, yes Parga is wonderful especially the, stew served as the second course.

 

[donalomahony]

We did. Only 20 ahead in the queue for the Compostela when we arrived on Wednesday.

Got to the evening mass and saw the botofumiere in action.

Heading home today

You were two days behind, did you catch up a day or are you arriving today?

Either way, congratulations on your own Camino. Well done

Well done! Thanks for taking the time to keep us updated...