Favorite stops/albergues on the Norte?

[NadineK]

Hello past and future (and current?) el Norte pilgrims! I leave in 2 weeks for my second Camino (last summer was the Frances, this summer is Norte/Primitivo). I've moved from 'this Camino feels so far away and I don't think it will ever get here' to 'I only have two weeks- how did that happen??- excited/panic mode'.

My question is about albergues/places to stay along the Norte. If you could recommend one (maybe two) of your very favorite places (towns/villages/cities) to stay or favorite albergue experiences, which would they be? I'd like to leave a lot of my experience on the Norte open and unplanned (though I only have 31 days to walk which is not as much as I would like), and some of my favorite experiences on the Frances were when I would stumble on a beautiful place and decide to spend the night. That being said, my favorite albergue experience was the Ermita de San Nicolas, a place that had been recommended to me before my trip and that I took care to plan my days around.

So I would love to have a heads-up about a few special places along the Norte, if any come to mind.

Thank you!

Nadine

 

[mikevasey]

Hi Nadine hope you a have a beautiful Camino, here are some of the places that stick out to me but it has been 3 years since I was on the Norte ( last year Primtivo)and I keep reading of really good places opening, but here anyway is my list; Albergue San Martin in Orio, friendly welcome with a big open area which has views of the mountains + they do meals which I recommend. The Albergue in Guemes, donativo, communal meals, built with the intention of benefiting pilgrims. Casa Belen, 8km before Ribadesella in Cuerres, more than any other place this is where I would go again, 8 places. Pola de Seiro, the municipal albergue, modern utility one, but it has a good feel to it. On the Primitivo there is Albergue San Juan de Villapanda about 30km from Oviedo, very friendly, on a hill overlooking the plain which Grado is on, we were treated to an electrical storm over the area. No bars or shops nearby but the hospitalero left stocks in the Fridge+ cooking facilities and he did cook as well, very relaxing place. Ca Pacita (In Doriga, don't blink you will miss it) about 4 km before Cornellana, not in online guides, 5 beds. The dorm room is in a hut in the garden, its better than it sounds. Attached to an excellent bar/cafe, historical places around it to see. Bodeneya it has had changes recently, good reports still coming in, excellent donativo albergue.
Castro about 5km after Grandas de Salime, good location, places to visit nearby, very friendly, good meal in the evening.
Could say Albergue Fereirra about 26km after Lugo but I didn't arrive until 9pm so didn't really get a good enough taste of it but liked by other pilgrims who had been there all day. When you join back up with the Frances at Melide if you are not walking on then the very 1st Albergue you come to is San Anton, new, opened last year good rooms not to big or small, garden out the back. Very friendly welcome.

Buen Camino

 

[jpflavin1]

Hello past and future (and current?) el Norte pilgrims! I leave in 2 weeks for my second Camino (last summer was the Frances, this summer is Norte/Primitivo). I've moved from 'this Camino feels so far away and I don't think it will ever get here' to 'I only have two weeks- how did that happen??- excited/panic mode'.

My question is about albergues/places to stay along the Norte. If you could recommend one (maybe two) of your very favorite places (towns/villages/cities) to stay or favorite albergue experiences, which would they be? I'd like to leave a lot of my experience on the Norte open and unplanned (though I only have 31 days to walk which is not as much as I would like), and some of my favorite experiences on the Frances were when I would stumble on a beautiful place and decide to spend the night. That being said, my favorite albergue experience was the Ermita de San Nicolas, a place that had been recommended to me before my trip and that I took care to plan my days around.

So I would love to have a heads-up about a few special places along the Norte, if any come to mind.

Thank you!

Nadine

Nadine:

Guemes with Father Ernesto, Albergue Santa Cruz in Santa Cruz de Bezana (with Nieves), Pendueles (sp.) another nice donativo Albergue, Casa Belen a wonderful albergue on the Norte. It is run by a German couple but not in guide books near Cuerres. Hotels I liked. Hotel Marino in El Rellayo, beautiful ocean views. Hotel Carlos I, in Villaviciosa.

This is a wonderful Camino and 31 days should be plenty of time to walk. Start slowly and ease yourself into the walk. The first third is the toughest part. The last third is much easier and you can walk longer days.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[NadineK]

Highly Nadine hope you a have a beautiful Camino, here are some of the places that stick out to me but it has been 3 years since I was on the Norte ( last year Primtivo)and I keep reading of really good places opening, but here anyway is my list; Albergue San Martin in Orio, friendly welcome with a big open area which has views of the mountains + they do meals which I recommend. The Albergue in Guemes, donativo, communal meals, built with the intention of benefiting pilgrims. Casa Belen, 8km before Ribadesella in Cuerres, more than any other place this is where I would go again, 8 places. Pola de Seiro, the municipal albergue, modern utility one, but it has a good feel to it. On the Primitivo there is Albergue San Juan de Villapanda about 30km from Oviedo, very friendly, on a hill overlooking the plain which Grado is on, we were treated to an electrical storm over the area. No bars or shops nearby but the hospitalero left stocks in the Fridge+ cooking facilities and he did cook as well, very relaxing place. Ca Pacita (In Doriga, don't blink you will miss it) about 4 km before Cornellana, not in online guides, 5 beds. The dorm room is in a hut in the garden, its better than it sounds. Attached to an excellent bar/cafe, historical places around it to see. Bodeneya it has had changes recently, good reports still coming in, excellent donativo albergue.
Castro about 5km after Grandas de Salime, good location, places to visit nearby, very friendly, good meal in the evening.
Could say Albergue Fereirra about 26km after Lugo but I didn't arrive until 9pm so didn't really get a good enough taste of it but liked by other pilgrims who had been there all day. When you join back up with the Frances at Melide if you are not walking on then the very 1st Albergue you come to is San Anton, new, opened last year good rooms not to big or small, garden out the back. Very friendly welcome.

Buen Camino

Thank you so much for this! These recommendations went above and beyond anything I was hoping for- I'm definitely making notes of these and hope to hit some (if not all) of them (and hoping I can stumble on a few other gems as well).

Thanks again!

 

[NadineK]

Nadine:

Guemes with Father Ernesto, Albergue Santa Cruz in Santa Cruz de Bezana (with Nieves), Pendueles (sp.) another nice donativo Albergue, Casa Belen a wonderful albergue on the Norte. It is run by a German couple but not in guide books near Cuerres. Hotels I liked. Hotel Marino in El Rellayo, beautiful ocean views. Hotel Carlos I, in Villaviciosa.

This is a wonderful Camino and 31 days should be plenty of time to walk. Start slowly and ease yourself into the walk. The first third is the toughest part. The last third is much easier and you can walk longer days.

Ultreya,
Joe

Hi Joe, thank you so much for these recommendations, I appreciate them so much! And thank you also for your encouragement with my time-frame of 31 days... I walked the Frances in 31, and knew that I could have lengthened several of my days fairly easily, so I'm hoping that 31 on the Norte is do-able as well.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Since Sta-Irene, 20 km from Santiago, will be a place you walk by I would recommend the private albergue in Sta-Irene. Looks like a doll's house, with a bed all made up and a real towel. A great place for your last might en route.

 

[jpflavin1]

Hi Joe, thank you so much for these recommendations, I appreciate them so much! And thank you also for your encouragement with my time-frame of 31 days... I walked the Frances in 31, and knew that I could have lengthened several of my days fairly easily, so I'm hoping that 31 on the Norte is do-able as well.

Nadine:

I walked from San Sebastian in 29 days last year. This is a great walk along the ocean. Talk to the Hospitalero in Pendueles. There is a great detour off the e-9 with some nice ocean scenery. The e-9 intersects the Norte in many places.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[NadineK]

Since Sta-Irene, 20 km from Santiago, will be a place you walk by I would recommend the private albergue in Sta-Irene. Looks like a doll's house, with a bed all made up and a real towel. A great place for your last might en route.

Thank you for this recommendation, I just might try to stay here! I remember that on the Camino Frances last year, I had trouble finding a place to stay around this section. I walked past Arzua, but had to continue much further than I wanted in order to find a place with a free bed... I ended up staying somewhere about 17km from Santiago, and even though it was late afternoon I was tempted to just keep going. But this recommendation is great, I've noted it in my guidebook!

 

[NadineK]

Nadine:

I walked from San Sebastian in 29 days last year. This is a great walk along the ocean. Talk to the Hospitalero in Pendueles. There is a great detour off the e-9 with some nice ocean scenery. The e-9 intersects the Norte in many places.

Ultreya,
Joe

Great, I've read that many hospitaleros will give recommendations on the route, so I will have to make sure to ask. The more beautiful ocean scenery, the better!

And as long as my legs/feet/body hold up, I think my 31 day time-frame will be do-able. I plan to start off slow(ish), and then work in some longer days later in the walk. Or not- I'm trying to leave this Camino 'open' to whatever comes my way. I joke that I might find a village near the sea and hunker down for awhile to lounge and write and take photographs... so maybe I won't even make it to Santiago!

 

[jpflavin1]

Thank you for this recommendation, I just might try to stay here! I remember that on the Camino Frances last year, I had trouble finding a place to stay around this section. I walked past Arzua, but had to continue much further than I wanted in order to find a place with a free bed... I ended up staying somewhere about 17km from Santiago, and even though it was late afternoon I was tempted to just keep going. But this recommendation is great, I've noted it in my guidebook!

Nadine:

Salcedo has a nice albergue right next to a quirky bar. This is between Arzua and St. Irene only 26 km's from Santiago.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Kiko]

Am currently in the albuergue Kanpaia here in Getaria and would highly recommend it.
It was certainly worth the extra few kms walking from Zarautz and both the albergue and the town are very nice.

 

[Kiko]

Ps can also add the private albergue Idarbide 5kms up from Deba.
Fantastic views and greeted with a glass of sidra...perfect

 

[jpflavin1]

Great, I've read that many hospitaleros will give recommendations on the route, so I will have to make sure to ask. The more beautiful ocean scenery, the better!

And as long as my legs/feet/body hold up, I think my 31 day time-frame will be do-able. I plan to start off slow(ish), and then work in some longer days later in the walk. Or not- I'm trying to leave this Camino 'open' to whatever comes my way. I joke that I might find a village near the sea and hunker down for awhile to lounge and write and take photographs... so maybe I won't even make it to Santiago!

There is a beautifully located Albergue on the ocean in Tapia de Casariego.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[shefollowsshells]

Am currently in the albuergue Kanpaia here in Getaria and would highly recommend it.
It was certainly worth the extra few kms walking from Zarautz and both the albergue and the town are very nice.

Kiko,
I think Getaria was my single favorite town on the Camino! I did not know there was an auberge there. Is it actually on the Camino.
The road path out of Zarautz was closed when I walked and I had to go up the stairs and over the cliff (great walk) so I actually had to back track to
get to Getaria.
I would love to know if this auberge was on the Camino or did you have to seek it out!
Thank you!
Neve

 

[Kiko]

Neve
It's high up above the town but Getaria itself is not actually on the Camino. Unless you walk along the coast road from Zarautz instead of up and over.

 

[Kiko]

And to amend my post from above about the Idarbide hostel I have to say that they are a little money-grabbing
My friend paid 25 euros for bed and dinner and then an extra 5 for a pretty meagre breakfast. However, what really took the biscuit (as we say in English!) was that they wanted to charge him an extra euro when he asked for another slice of toast!! And we are talking g about the crappiest Spanish sliced bread here, worth a few cents.
A little sad.

Since then however I can report two more great places to stay.
The monestary at Zennarutz is a must. Simple accomadation and dinner but all by donativo and situated in a fantastically-positioned medieval monastery!

And now tonight in the private albergue in Eskaril...seems very nice here so far

 

[ReidarJ]

I read with much delight, thank you all for posting here.

I walk from Irún to San Sebastian tomorrow, any recommendations for where to stay in or near San Sebastian?

Mucho gracias
Reidar

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I read with much delight, thank you all for posting here.

I walk from Irún to San Sebastian tomorrow, any recommendations for where to stay in or near San Sebastian?

Mucho gracias
Reidar

The albergue at the end of town, Ondareta or La Sirena, I think they use both names. It's e albergue juvenil.

 

[Kanga]

@ReidarJ we stopped at Paisajes San Juan, instead of walking on - we did not leave Irun until about 3pm. Glad we did because it is a lovely place, great albergue, along a path that goes off to the left as you enter town.

 

[ReidarJ]

The albergue at the end of town, Ondareta or La Sirena, I think they use both names. It's e albergue juvenil.

Thank you, I am staying at Albergue Juvenil right now. I just love this place. It is so much better than Albergue de Peregrinos where I stayed last night, sleeping on a matress on the floor with 20 other pilgrims...

I want to walk right under 30km tomorrow as well, I am super happy for any sugestions on albergues within that distance that was a good experience.

Buen Camino

 

[ReidarJ]

@ReidarJ we stopped at Paisajes San Juan, instead of walking on - we did not leave Irun until about 3pm. Glad we did because it is a lovely place, great albergue, along a path that goes off to the left as you enter town.

I will remember that if I walk this Camino again. Muchas Gracias.

Buen Camino

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Thank you, I am staying at Albergue Juvenil right now. I just love this place. It is so much better than Albergue de Peregrinos where I stayed last night, sleeping on a matress on the floor with 20 other pilgrims...

I want to walk right under 30km tomorrow as well, I am super happy for any sugestions on albergues within that distance that was a good experience.

Buen Camino

Funny you should ask, last night instead of reading a novel before going to bed I read Cicerone (which I did not have on my Norte camino) and looked at how I could do it differently, with different stops. So this is all fresh in my mind!

I walked from San Sebastian to Zarautz and stayed at the Zarautz Hostel, on the top floors of the gas station when you walk into town. Never had I seen such a beautiful albergue, with little boxes on the wall with individual plugs and light and recharge cell phones etc. It has a great big terrace but a super small place to dry your clothes (and they don't like to see them on the terrace, whereas they don't mind wetsuits and boards ;0( )

But if you walk all the way to Zarautz you miss the albergue in Orio which is said to be excellent. In Zarautz, if you are a foodie, you can eat at Karlos Arguinano's restaurants by the beach. He's a well know chef that has a TV show. But he is not expensive, he believes in quality food, well prepared for all.

If you stayed in Orio you could then walk to the Albergue Santa Klara the following day instead of walking to Deba, and the next day walk past Deba to break up a very difficult day by staying at the albergue that is perhaps 5-8 km out of town. In Markina I highly recommend the albergue on the other side of the road, Intxauspe. It's a lovely home where the bird coop has been convered into a dorm. It has a beautiful front yard with lounging chairs and a communal dinner. If you prefer they also offer a pension.

BTW, if anyone has suggestions for where to stay between Markina and Gernika I am all ears. There's the monastery but I hear it has rats and those are not my favourite types of roommates... I am looking for something that would then have me walk by Gernika and find a bed past it, although, if you have not been stay there and visit the Peace Museum and the townhall. But do secure a bed before getting there, at the Juvi, or else .... you may end up staying in hotels or pensiones.

EDIT: I remember there is a casa rural as you arrive in Munitibar after that tretchous walk down from the monastery, but can't find anything on line. Anyone remember it?


Oh how I envy you!

 

[Marc S.]

Some om my favorites have been mentioned by other already, but I would also like to recommend the Albergue Convento San Jose in Zumaia (halfway Zarautz and Deba). No meals provided, but it is a really quiet monastery kind of place, with small rooms and a beautiful courtyard / garden.

 

[ReidarJ]

You are my heroes, I love your feedback.

I also make notes on my blog after each day, http://hikingnotes.blogspot.com/

Buen Camino

 

[Kelly Catlow]

Nadine:

Salcedo has a nice albergue right next to a quirky bar. This is between Arzua and St. Irene only 26 km's from Santiago.

Ultreya,
Joe

Do you know the name of it Joe? Would it be called Boni with 20 beds for around 12 Euro?
Or Alborada or Pousada Salceda? Do you remember?

 

[tjz]

Do you know the name of it Joe? Would it be called Boni with 20 beds for around 12 Euro?
Or Alborada or Pousada Salceda? Do you remember?

https://www.albergueturisticosalceda.com/

If it's this one, I can very highly recommend it. The food and hospitality were unbelievable!

Buen Camino!

Tom

 

[Kelly Catlow]

Brilliant- thank you!!

 

[jpflavin1]

Do you know the name of it Joe? Would it be called Boni with 20 beds for around 12 Euro?
Or Alborada or Pousada Salceda? Do you remember?

I stayed at Boni. Located next door to bar.