Easter 2025 on the Frances

[rappahannock_rev]

My first visit to the Camino was in 1977. My first full Frances was in 2012. My most recent visit was in October 2023. (And I did many in between....) I'm a Camino veteran, OK?! My heart lives on the Camino! That said, as an ordained clergyman I was never free to visit Spain for Holy Week.

Well, things have changed..... I'm now fully retired and -- with episcopal approval, of course -- I'm free to beg off from Easter services next year. I'd like finally to spend Holy Week on the Camino Frances. Not walking cross county, as before, or anything like that..... But rather, picking some Frances city or town and "squatting" for Holy Week -- touring the churches, attending the special services, watching the processions, relaxing, sipping wine on terraces, and thanking God for my many blessings! (It would very likely be my last visit to Spain....)

Where should I do that?? Your opinions are solicited....

 

[Bradypus]

The only Holy Week I have experienced in Spain was in Oviedo - so not on the Frances. I chose to start the Primitivo from there in Holy Week so I could have the chance to view the Sudarium in the cathedral in Oviedo. The penitentes processions were fascinating. Haven't experienced it myself but I hear that Leon is also very impressive.

Semana Santa - Página Oficial de Turismo de León

La Semana Santa de León es una de las más importantes de España, habiendo conseguido en el año 2002 la declaración de 'Fiesta de Interés Turístico

leon.es

 

[Tincatinker]

My most treasured memory of Semana Santa is set in Logrono. I was there for “Black Friday” in the Albergue parroquial Santiago El Real as the brethren gathered, robed and set out on their penitential journey. The processions were, of course, spectacular. The penitentes were, of course, dedicated and determined. And I got to chop 2 kilos of garlic to contribute to the sopa de ajo that was their “break fast” at about 6am as the sun rose on the Saturday morning. I ladled soup. Others dealt with bloodied shoulders and necks. Elisabet said I could stay another night as I hadn’t slept. I walked on in that comfortable state that a night without sleep occasionally brings.

I’ve experienced Semana Santa in Seville; Malaga and El Rocio. Logrono is where I would go back again.

 

[J Willhaus]

My first visit to the Camino was in 1977. My first full Frances was in 2012. My most recent visit was in October 2023. (And I did many in between....) I'm a Camino veteran, OK?! My heart lives on the Camino! That said, as an ordained clergyman I was never free to visit Spain for Holy Week.

Well, things have changed..... I'm now fully retired and -- with episcopal approval, of course -- I'm free to beg off from Easter services next year. I'd like finally to spend Holy Week on the Camino Frances. Not walking cross county, as before, or anything like that..... But rather, picking some Frances city or town and "squatting" for Holy Week -- touring the churches, attending the special services, watching the processions, relaxing, sipping wine on terraces, and thanking God for my many blessings! (It would very likely be my last visit to Spain....)

Where should I do that?? Your opinions are solicited....

Phil and I are considering Zamora or Santiago. Might see you there!

 

[KFH]

My most treasured memory of Semana Santa is set in Logrono. I was there for “Black Friday” in the Albergue parroquial Santiago El Real as the brethren gathered, robed and set out on their penitential journey. The processions were, of course, spectacular. The penitentes were, of course, dedicated and determined. And I got to chop 2 kilos of garlic to contribute to the sopa de ajo that was their “break fast” at about 6am as the sun rose on the Saturday morning. I ladled soup. Others dealt with bloodied shoulders and necks. Elisabet said I could stay another night as I hadn’t slept. I walked on in that comfortable state that a night without sleep occasionally brings.

I’ve experienced Semana Santa in Seville; Malaga and El Rocio. Logrono is where I would go back again.

Here's a nice roundup for Logrono:

SEMANA SANTA 2024 | web-hermandad

www.hermandadcofradiaslogrono.org

 

[mustang2actual]

We had a family visit to Seville during Holy Week. What a fantastic experience. Whatever you choose will be spectacular.

 

[davejsy]

First of all I hope it's not your last visit to Spain because it is obvious a large part of your heart resides there.

However, with it being the possibility of your last visit the stakes of advising are high.

Lots of places mentioned would be wonderful, but for a whole week - and with a nice terrace? I know you mention the Frances, but Oviedo would be my suggestion. You could easily stay a little out of town which immediately puts you in beautiful mountainous territory and I'm sure a suitable terrace could be found to sip your chosen Bierzo beverage on. You could amble up to the simply beautiful Mont Naranco taking in the two outstanding little churches on the way up (also there is an amazing restaurant on the way up with a TERRACE overlooking Oviedo). Leon is an hour away by train or bus (or 5 days via the El Salvador ) , and as a curve ball the outstanding Covadonga is also only an hour away by car. Oviedo is also a wonderful city to lose yourself in.

So maybe even an Oviedo/Leon split week would be leisurely and easy to do whilst ticking all your boxes for what will hopefully not be your last visit to Spain.

 

[Jarrad]

Wow! I have no helpful recommendations (Burgos? Santiago?), but congratulations on your retirement. Thank you so much for your life of service to others. What an incredible vocation. Thank you!

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Here's a nice roundup for Logrono:

SEMANA SANTA 2024 | web-hermandad

www.hermandadcofradiaslogrono.org

The Logrono site you pushed to me is AWESOME! Gracias!

 

[JerryStroebele]

Small town, but I lucked out in Carrion de los Condes on Good Friday, 2022. The procession was fabulous, the people happy. Buen Camino

 

[peregrina2000]

I know Sevilla is the “go to” place, but with that comes the crush of crowds. I like @J Willhaus’s suggestion of Zamora. With their more than 20 Romanesque churches, the cathedral, castle, modernist area, river walk, there would never be a dull moment.

I found this schedule for 2024, but my guess is that things are pretty much the same each year.

Itinerario Semana Santa Zamora: recorrido de todas las procesiones.

Itinerarios de todas las procesiones de Semana Santa en Zamora, con mapas interactivos, fotos y otros datos de interés. Conoce el recorrido de todas las Cofradías y Hermandades.

www.itinerariosemanasantazamora.com

I was in Zamora in October 2023, and I overheard a conversation at the front desk in the Parador that was putting people on the wait list for Semana Santa 2024. So it does fill up. But Zamora is, IMHO, a beautiful and very manageable city with lots of good places to stay in the historic center.

 

[Bogong]

My first visit to the Camino was in 1977. My first full Frances was in 2012. My most recent visit was in October 2023. (And I did many in between....) I'm a Camino veteran, OK?! My heart lives on the Camino! That said, as an ordained clergyman I was never free to visit Spain for Holy Week.

Well, things have changed..... I'm now fully retired and -- with episcopal approval, of course -- I'm free to beg off from Easter services next year. I'd like finally to spend Holy Week on the Camino Frances. Not walking cross county, as before, or anything like that..... But rather, picking some Frances city or town and "squatting" for Holy Week -- touring the churches, attending the special services, watching the processions, relaxing, sipping wine on terraces, and thanking God for my many blessings! (It would very likely be my last visit to Spain....)

Where should I do that?? Your opinions are solicited....

Here’s another suggestion. I finished my Camino before la Semana Santa. My

My first visit to the Camino was in 1977. My first full Frances was in 2012. My most recent visit was in October 2023. (And I did many in between....) I'm a Camino veteran, OK?! My heart lives on the Camino! That said, as an ordained clergyman I was never free to visit Spain for Holy Week.

Well, things have changed..... I'm now fully retired and -- with episcopal approval, of course -- I'm free to beg off from Easter services next year. I'd like finally to spend Holy Week on the Camino Frances. Not walking cross county, as before, or anything like that..... But rather, picking some Frances city or town and "squatting" for Holy Week -- touring the churches, attending the special services, watching the processions, relaxing, sipping wine on terraces, and thanking God for my many blessings! (It would very likely be my last visit to Spain....)

Where should I do that?? Your opinions are solicited....

Here’s another suggestion. I finished my Camino beforehand, picked up my wife and her sister in Santiago de Compostela and after short sojourns in Barcelona and Madrid we spent la Semana Santa in Toledo. It is the seat of the Catholic Church in Spain and was recommended to me by another traveller. Also many locals I met throughout Spain told me that Spain had two magical cities. Toledo was one and Santiago de Compostela the other.

De Colores

Bogong

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

Whatever destination you choose, beware of this fact. Public transport options for getting there and away may be difficult. Because many Spaniards are travelling then, both trains and buses fill up quickly. In April of this year, on my trip around Andalusia, I had problems getting tickets at the last minute. Take my advice and book your land transport as soon as you book your flights to Spain.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Logrono is looking better and better for me for next Easter.... I know that many pilgrims just blow thru it, but I stopped there and explored it in 2012, 2015 and 2019, and have fond memories of it. Outside the casco viejo it reminds me of the Mexico City I grew up in in the early 1960s....

Easily reached by bus from MAD Barajas.... Many beautiful and historic churches, charming city parks, great pinchos and excellent cheap wine.... What more could I ask for, eh?! ... Easy day-jaunts out to nearby towns like Viana and Navarette.... And all those Holy Week processions! Wow!

Only negative? When I passed thru w/o stopping last October I discovered to my dismay that Logrono had closed its memorable/quirky/smelly old bus station, and replaced it with a sterile soulless modern steel-and-glass construction farther out from el centro....

 

[Bradypus]

Only negative? When I passed thru w/o stopping last October I discovered to my dismay that Logrono had closed its memorable/quirky/smelly old bus station, and replaced it with a sterile soulless modern steel-and-glass construction farther out from el centro....

Sounds like a metaphor for the recent Camino Frances in general.... But I hope that you have a blessed Semana Santa wherever you end up! Pax et bonum.

 

[peregrina2000]

Logrono is looking better and better for me for next Easter....

Though I love Zamora and think that it would be less frenzied and less crowded than Sevilla, Logroño’s Semana Santa is probably an even less-touristed and less prettified affair than Zamora. I think that’s a great choice!

 

[henrythedog]

I’d strongly recommend Malaga. I’ve been twice for Semana Santa (also Madrid, Sevilla, Valladolid once each).

The centre of Sevilla is very difficult to access at Easter. Lots of reserved grandstands and little opportunity to get close to the processions - unless you do the research and intercept them individually outside the centre.

In Malaga it’s much more accessible and equipped with a map you can cut through the back-streets get up-close very easily. Very dramatic - especially the overnight processions. Some of the tronos (the processional floats) are made so as to just get round the street corners by inches.

You can research the events, services, timings and routes in advance (look at last years programme online) the days, times and routes never vary. The emergence from the templos - the headquarters of the hermandades where the tronos are stored and prepared, is excellent.

 

[SabsP]

Not at all on the CF but deep in Aragon.
The fabulous Ruta del Tambor in some small villages around Calanda. Calanda is the birthplace of Luis Buñuel and his autobiography made me travel to El Bajo Aragon many years ago.

The sounds of the drums are something I never experienced before. The procesions very solemn.

https://www.turismodearagon.com/ficha/ruta-del-tambor-y-del-bombo/

Ruta del Tambor y Bombo. Semana Santa del Bajo Aragón.

Los sonidos de los pueblos que integran la Ruta del Tambor y el Bombo son la voz de una comarca llena de valores y riquezas. Ven a vivir nuestra Tierra de Pasión.

rutadeltamborybombo.com

Ruta del tambor y el bombo - Wikipedia, la enciclopedia libre

es.wikipedia.org

Be prepared that sleep might be less deep than normal.

 

[J Willhaus]

We found an AirBNB in Logroño a couple of years ago. Reasonable price and reasonable walk to bus and train station and reasonable walk to the Camino and old town. I'm sure you can find something comfortable.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Still tempted by an event-focused Holy Week trip.... And contemplating the April 2025 calendar, I see that I could easily do Palm Sunday in Logrono, Maundy Thursday and Good Friday in Burgos, and Easter Sunday in Leon. Bussing between the towns should be easy and cheap.... But IF I decide to do that then I think that I'd be wise to book accommodations FAR ahead. (I've walked the Frances often enough to know where I'd like to stay....)