If you want to splurge:
Website Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros
www.chanceleiros.com
I am pretty sure I have stayed here, years ago. It has gotten a lot fancier! If I’m right about that, it was owned and run by a German/N.European woman (?). And if I’m right, I think I remember that there is not a direct view over the river, though it has stunning views. Can you tell us a bit more?
I have stayed in a number of very beautiful, though less expensive places, too.
With a view over the Douro —
Casal de Loivos (up in the hills over Pinhao,probably the best view of all) or
Casa de Canilhas (Mesao Frio — a modern home with pool, but what got me hooked were the balconies looking down over the river)
Two
pousadas, one in Mesao Frio, one in Alijó. SCANDAL — I just saw that the Mesao Frio pousada is permanently closed, it was so much more charming than the one in Alijó, though the pousadas are all very comfortable.
On the south side of the river, I stayed in Folgosa in
Quinta da Azenha, very close to an upscale restaurant,
DOC. Very good food, but I am not a foodie.
Near Regua, back to the north side of the river, I very much liked
Casa das Torres (its address puts it in the municipality of Mesao Frio, but it is closer to Peso da Regua actually). And there is an arrow right outside the gate — I think someone has told me it’s the Camino de Torres, but I am not 100% sure.
I have been lucky to spend four or five weekends in this area over the years, and always look for new places to stay. The entire valley is gorgeous. I’m sure if I dig my memory some more, I can come up with other places, but this is a good start for people looking to drive around the Douro. I have consistently been pleased with the places I’ve found on
this website. Lots of options all over the country, but I may be getting off-topic, sorry!