Dining the Camino Inglés

[Hal]

Food, Food, Food. Yum. Yum. Yum.

I chose the Ingles route rather than Sarria for my first Camino in Spain because I wanted to take advantage of less crowds in tours and the chance to meet the same walkers, if I am able to hang out with any on the odd walk, on a smaller scale by taking a road (relatively) less travelled to Santiago through what seems like a very beautiful Galicia.

I have an intolerance to the proteins in cooked egg yolk and do very poorly with lactose. I can do bread in a pinch, but bloat terribly and more that a large roll in a day will give me a rash on my arm. So Camino Frances staples such as bocadilla with potato tortilla and garlic bread soup is out of the question, and girl refuses to snack on apples and proteins bars, tinned fish and boiled egg whites alone...

I'm looking forward to dining on Galicia's finest! Fish, stew, fruit, vegetables, meat - everything the region has to offer! Some of those beach side fish restaurants before Pontedeume looked a bit touristy but who cares with pilchards that appealing to the eye and with the Mediterranean in the distance?

What were your favourite Hal-friendly hostals, bars, cafes, restaurants, petrol stations, fast food joints, hell, entire towns where the food was memorable enough to post to Hal about?

God bless, and I look forward to your culinary reminisces.

p.s. I love food.

 

[naplesdon]

I walked the Ingles last year from Ferrol. You have chosen the route less traveled and it is wonderful as was the food. For a gourmand there are some wonderful restaurants and places to eat but parsing the ingredients would get you tongue tied. I followed bit and pieces of Johnnie Walker's guide and was not unhappy.

 

[peregrina2000]

I walked the Ingles last year from Ferrol. You have chosen the route less traveled and it is wonderful as was the food. For a gourmand there are some wonderful restaurants and places to eat but parsing the ingredients would get you tongue tied. I followed bit and pieces of Johnnie Walker's guide and was not unhappy.

So, inquiring minds are wondering -- do you have the names or any info for any of those great places? If my body is still holding together in July, I may try to squeeze in a walk on the Inglés. I walked from Ferrol about 10 years ago, and would love to see how it's changed. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I ate on the Ingles, not dined! I must have missed the gourmet places. Everything I had was good, but standard. Most places are one-bar villages. The beachfront places were all closed, so maybe they had something.

 

[IngridF]

I dined in Ferrol and Santiago.
..the rest of the time I ate.

 

[mylifeonvacation]

I can't think of a better place to start off with fabulous dining than in Ferrol at O Camiño de Inglés. The menu appears to change frequently, and is presented on a chalkboard that they prop by your table when ordering. You didn't mention a budget, so while not cheap, excellent quality and very friendly service are found. It's located just a couple of blocks from the start of the Camino, so I visited the day before we actually started the walk.

You will find pulpo (octopus) on the menus everywhere. Pulpo a la gallega is most common (octopus with potatoes drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with paprika). Right across the estuary (ria) from Ferrol is a town called Mugardos that is known for a dish called pulpo a la mugardesa, which is octopus and potatoes in a red pepper sauce. You don't have to go to Mugardos, just be on the lookout for this dish on menus throughout the camino and try it if you enjoy pulpo!

In Cabanas I had a great order of churros con chocolate at a place called "Churreria Las Vegas", just a down the block from Hotel Sarga. Not sure if all wheat products bothers you, but for those not sensitive, churros are a wonderful treat, especially if you have them fresh out of the fryer. Right over the bridge in Pontedeume there are many cafe bars, and even a culinary school right off the camino. I know a chef who works there, so if I find any additional information I will make an update.

There are plenty of restaurants in Mino, although the day I stopped through here I only had tortilla and jamón for lunch. Tortillas are off of your list, OP, due to the eggs (tortilla is just potatoes, eggs and olive oil - sometimes onion), but do look for jamón ibérico for a real Spanish treat!

Betanzos - now this is the town to eat! There are SO many great restaurants, many are easily found just down the alleys from the main square. No use for the OP, but Betanazos is known for their unique style of tortilla - it's "poco hecho", which means "rare". When you cut into it, the egg runs all over the plate. It's delicious, but if eggs are not your thing, stick with regular tortilla. If it is your thing, then grab some of that excellent gallego bread and start sopping it up! Mesón O Pote is one of the best places in town and we had an excellent lunch there. We ate quite simply (tortilla, caldo gallego, bread, and my husband had raxo, I believe), but I noted tables nearby enjoying some mighty fine looking shellfish. If you are interested in this tortilla, here's a video of how they make it at Mesón O Pote:

Of course, Santiago has an array of wonderful restaurants, including several with Michelin stars. I had a marvelous time visiting A Horta do Obradoiro, but there are just so many great spots. Google away for the type of thing you are looking for.

In general, things to look for that are specialties of Galicia:
Shellfish - mussels, clams, razor clams, cockels, scallops (bay and sea) ... if you like shellfish, Galicia is the place for you! I wrote up a blog post about a fantastic shellfish meal at a place over on the coast near Vigo (so nowhere near the Ingles), but it illustrates how great the shellfish can be. Here's another list of shellfish in Galicia.
Fish - Fish in general is excellent in Galicia. Pan roasted or oven baked, fresh fish is wonderful in these parts. My personal favorite is whatever kind of fish "a la gallega", which is fish simmered with potatoes and onions, drizzled with a fried garlic paprika sauce. Merluza = hake, rape = monkfish, rodaballo = turbot, San Martino = John Dory
Empanada - Sometimes translated as "Gallego Pie", the empanadas are excellent all around. Get a piece in the morning and take it with you for a snack later. (Photo of one in the blog post above). A bread product, still.
Croquetas - Croquettes of jamon, pollo, or whatever kind of fish are all favorites throughout Spain. Look for croquetas 'caseras' (homemade). (edit: Sorry, OP, but I just re-read your original post and see that lactose isn't for you either - so these are out, as the creamy inside is made with milk.)
Bread - I know OP can't eat much, but the bread in Galicia is all phenomenal. It's brown and hearty, and excellent quality in even the most humble places.
Cocido - Winter is cocido time, a hearty meal of various cuts of pork, potatoes, greens, and chickpeas. If you see this on a menu on a weekend, get it!
Cheese - Galicia is also known for some nice, mild, cheeses. San Simon da Costa is my favorite (smokey and mild). Tetilla is extremely common, as is Arzua. Often served for dessert with membrillo (quince paste).
Raxo & Zorza - Pork marinated in paprika, garlic, oregano, and parsley, then pan fried and served with potatoes. Raxo is generally cubed and Zorza more chopped. Very flavorful and perhaps a bit spicy.
Vaca Vella - You may see large hunks of beef in restaurant windows, which may be aged beef. I didn't eat this heavy while on camino, but I do plan to get my hands on some of these great steaks when we next visit Galicia! Here's an interesting article discussing: http://www.theguardian.com/global/2015/oct/11/raising-the-steaks-meet-the-elderly-spanish-cows-destined-for-dinner-plates

Enjoy, y BUEN PROVECHO en tu BUEN CAMINO!!

 

[Harington]

So, inquiring minds are wondering -- do you have the names or any info for any of those great places? If my body is still holding together in July, I may try to squeeze in a walk on the Inglés. I walked from Ferrol about 10 years ago, and would love to see how it's changed. Buen camino, Laurie

I fear that the major change is crowds (relative crowds - not like Sarria onwards), but it did mean full albergues (mid-September). Fabulous walk, though.

 

[Hal]

I can't think of a better place to start off with fabulous dining than in Ferrol at O Camiño de Inglés. The menu appears to change frequently, and is presented on a chalkboard that they prop by your table when ordering. You didn't mention a budget, so while not cheap, excellent quality and very friendly service are found. It's located just a couple of blocks from the start of the Camino, so I visited the day before we actually started the walk.

Nothing like fueling up for the day to come!

You will find pulpo (octopus) on the menus everywhere. Pulpo a la gallega is most common (octopus with potatoes drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with paprika). Right across the estuary (ria) from Ferrol is a town called Mugardos that is known for a dish called pulpo a la mugardesa, which is octopus and potatoes in a red pepper sauce. You don't have to go to Mugardos, just be on the lookout for this dish on menus throughout the camino and try it if you enjoy pulpo!

I adore octopus. In Australia, the most common kind is deep-fried baby octopus. The combination with potato sounds intriguing.

In Cabanas I had a great order of churros con chocolate at a place called "Churreria Las Vegas", just a down the block from Hotel Sarga. Not sure if all wheat products bothers you, but for those not sensitive, churros are a wonderful treat, especially if you have them fresh out of the fryer.

Oh God, that sounds divine.

Right over the bridge in Pontedeume there are many cafe bars, and even a culinary school right off the camino. I know a chef who works there, so if I find any additional information I will make an update.

Cheers!

Betanzos

- now this is the town to eat!

I *love* shellfish and fish. Beef and pork, too. Some of the Galician stews I Googled are mouthwatering.

I can do small amounts of yoghurt and soft fresh goat cheese and fresh white cheeses (and weirdly, the processed kind on McDonalds burgers) reasonably well, but I've never been able to digest full-cream milk and ripe cheddar and the like produced by our British friends even in childhood. As for breads, I was the only kid in the playground who ate the crusty stuff studded with grains and as dark as possible.

But enough about me! Galicia seems to be a gourmand's paradise. It all seems very fresh and unpretentious and local.

Enjoy, y BUEN PROVECHO en tu BUEN CAMINO!!

 

[naplesdon]

So, inquiring minds are wondering -- do you have the names or any info for any of those great places? If my body is still holding together in July, I may try to squeeze in a walk on the Inglés. I walked from Ferrol about 10 years ago, and would love to see how it's changed. Buen camino, Laurie

I walked from Ferrol to Santiago in August 2015. Shared the Camino with some pilgrims on a few days but no bed race, other nights like the muni in Mino, a block from the beach, I was solo. Mylifeonvacation summed up the dining very well. I found some great places to eat in Ferrol, Pontedeume and Betanzos, sorry I did not make notes. One memorable meal was in a very popular place near the main square of Betanzos where I had a marinated mussel dish.
Regarding your body being prepared, it is a fairly easy walk but there are 3 surprisingly difficult climbs. Ultreia!

 

[Al the optimist]

Try the Siguero Hostal. Great food. Almost all who were walking at the same time as me in September last year ended up eating at the same place by coincidence. We had a good time. Staff very friendly, good English spoken, and a good choice of menu. I can't remember but I think 10 euros. A lovely garden spot next to the river.

 

[Pelegrin]

Mylifeonvacation has given more information that I could but I would add something else:
My fovourite dish in Galician Restaurants is Zamburiñas a la plancha (grilled). Zamburiñas are very similar to vieiras but much smaller. I ate it in Restaurant O Parrulo Carretera de Catabois (Ferrol).
The key of tortilla de Betanzos is that it has more eggs than usual. And the eggs are high quality (very yellow ).

 

[mylifeonvacation]

My fovourite dish in Galician Restaurants is Zamburiñas a la plancha (grilled). Zamburiñas are very similar to vieiras but much smaller.

Ah, zamburiñas! The first time I was in Galicia walking the Ingles I did not know about these, but on my second trip, I did! Will have to post a pic (or two), but if you like scallops and see these on the menu, get them!

Edit: posted a pic of the zamburiñas!!

I also saw this today online, a list of 15 foods to try before you leave Galicia (I, personally, will pass on the lamprey eel, but the rest are or look wonderful!):
http://megustagalicia.noticiasgalicia.com/2016/03/09/15-comidas-tienes-probar-irte-galicia/

 

[peregrina2000]

Ah, zamburiñas! The first time I was in Galicia walking the Ingles I did not know about these, but on my second trip, I did! Will have to post a pic (or two), but if you like scallops and see these on the menu, get them!

I also saw this today online, a list of 15 foods to try before you leave Galicia (I, personally, will pass on the lamprey eel, but the rest are or look wonderful!):
http://megustagalicia.noticiasgalicia.com/2016/03/09/15-comidas-tienes-probar-irte-galicia/

I'll agree on the lamprey. It's very popular in Portugal, when in season, and I have tried it enough times to know I will not try it again. Have to say the same about callos, are you a fan?

 

[mylifeonvacation]

It's lamprey season in Galicia right now, I keep seeing stuff from restaurants I follow. There's one version where they stuff it with what looks like hard boiled eggs and then slice it that looks ok, but otherwise, can't say I'm interested. Callos I received as a free tapa one afternoon in Abegondo. I enjoyed the chickpeas and dipping bread into the sauce, but left the tripe behind.

 

[Bradypus]

I'll agree on the lamprey. It's very popular in Portugal, when in season, and I have tried it enough times to know I will not try it again.

Tried lamprey with rice on the Camino Portugues last month, sharing a table with a Dutch couple. Dark brown lumps looking very like sausage in a soupy mix of rice and an almost black sauce made using the blood. Quite salty. It was OK but not something I'd ask for again. My Dutch friends felt the same. The restaurant owner admitted that although it is traditional it is not a great favourite for most Portuguese either

 

[miguel_gp]

I've eaten in Restaurante Meson Pulpeira (Street View) just off the main central square in Betanzos a few times. Always been very good, for a steak and/or mariscos. Quite a small place and downstairs is more like a bar but there is also an upstairs dining room.