I first heard about the Camino while hiking the Pacific Crest Trail in 2010. One of the hikers I met had done the Camino and written a book about his experiences and as much as I loved the PCT, I wanted to do another long trail that was "different." After five months of hiking from Mexico to Canada, I wanted to take a year off and put 2012 on my calendar as the Year of the Camino.
I didn't learn about "The Way" coming out until late 2011 and, of course, I had to go out and see it. I can't say that it had anything to do with the hike I had already planned, but I was pretty sure that was going to be a surge of Americans walking the trail soon! And honestly, I didn't want to see a lot of Americans on the trail. I can see Americans from America. I don't have to go to Europe to see Americans, and other cultures and people fascinate me. =) But I figure most people take a few years to get their affairs in order, making the time and saving the money for a long hike, and I kind of doubted it would have much of an effect for 2012 hikers. I hoped not, at least!
I wound up starting from Le Puy to extend my hike (500 miles just wasn't long enough for me!) and those first 450 miles through France--nearly a month of walking--I met a total of two Americans. I didn't really expect "The Way" to have much of an effect on this section of trail since it wasn't even featured in the movie, and clearly--it didn't!
Then I walked into Saint Jean.....
Wow. Culture shock, right there! I saw more Americans in two minutes than I did in my entire month of walking to get there!
I decided to splurge for a hotel room and wound up going to the Hotel Continental since the first two options I checked out didn't work out, and as I was checking in, the desk clerk asked where I was from, and I told him, "États-Unis." (Gotta practice the French I learned in the past month!)
"American?" he said, though it wasn't really a question. "We've had a lot of Americans this year!"
"And you know why?" I told him, but that wasn't really a question either. "It's probably because of that darned movie that came out!"
And his eyes got wide, and he grew all excited, and he said, "Yes! They filmed right here in the lobby!"
Really? I did not know that.... I knew they filmed on the trail, but I never bothered to look up exactly where the shooting locations were.
"They did?" A genuine question--I was trying to think if I recognized the lobby from the movie, but it wasn't coming to me.
"Yes! Except it wasn't the lobby of a hotel. It was...." he struggled to think of the English word... "where Martin Sheen received his son's ashes. What do you call that in English?"
"A funeral home?"
"Yes!" he cried. "A funeral home! The lobby was used as the funeral home! They filmed here for four hours, but it shows up for about one minute in the film. So I've been told. I haven't actually seen the movie."
Which made me laugh.
"I had to hide behind this counter," he told me, tapping on the counter he was behind, "to work the buttons that would allow people in and out of the hotel, but I had to stay under the counter so I didn't show up in the film."
"And there's writing on the fireplace." He pointed to the fireplace behind me. "But the words inscribed on it mean [fill in the blank--I don't remember] which is something you'd never see in a funeral home, so I suggested to the film crew to try to avoid getting that in the film."
He went on about Martin Sheen filming a scene on the staircase behind him, but that scene, he was told by other guests, apparently didn't make it into the film.
"And they filmed the exterior of the hotel as well," he continued, "and a bunch of pilgrims who just got off at the trail station and were walking into town were...." he tried to think of an English word again. "It's akljdfwoh in French," he told me. "You know what I mean?"
I shook my head. I had no idea what he was trying to tell me. He pulled out one of two French-English dictionaries to look it up. "A guest left these behind," he told me as he was looking up the word in French.
"They were walk-ons!" he told me.
Walk-ons? What the heck are walk-ons? Is that anything like an extra?
"You mean extras?" I asked.
"These dictionaries are bad," he told me. "Other guests have told me that the translations in this dictionary are bad, so maybe."
He (eventually) took me to my room where I was finally able to take a shower and get cleaned up, and later I went back down to the lobby to take a few photos. I can't say that I remembered it from the movie, but I wanted to look it up again later. I took a couple of photos and the desk clerk saw me, knowing exactly what I was doing, and he hopped up.
"Wait a minute!" he told me as he started rearranging the furniture. "The chairs were set up like this during the filming," he said as he continued moving around the furniture. I felt kind of bad he was going through all this effort for a couple of silly photos.
He got things settled to show how they were set up during the movie and stood near the front door saying, "The camera was located here, shooting in your direction." He pantomimed like he was using an old time video camera that was hand-cranked. "And Martin Sheen was sitting right there, in that chair." He pointed to a chair behind me.
"Now you sit down and pretend like you're Martin Sheen, and I'll take a photo of you!"
I handed him my camera and sat where he told me to, and he took a couple of photos. I thanked him and chatted a bit more, and the desk clerk moved the furniture back to its original position and I left to explore Saint Jean.
Later, I did get on the Internet and found a couple of clips of the movie--trailers--where I could clearly see the staircase behind the desk and the scene where Martin Sheen walks out of his hotel and turns off walking in the wrong direction. Yep, that was definitely filmed in the lobby, although the exterior of the hotel was actually used as a hotel--not a funeral home like the inside was used for.
Anyhow.... the only reason I learned about all this, and the only reason I learned they even filmed at this hotel was because of my off-of-the-cuff observation that the reason he saw more Americans that year was probably because of the movie. =)
And for anyone who is looking for lodging in Saint Jean--the folks running the Hotel Continental were absolutely wonderful to me. And maybe you'll get a chance to sit in the very same chair that Martin Sheen used while filming "The Way." =)
-- Ryan