LIVE from the Camino Derrybiketours on the Camino de Madrid

[Derrybiketours]

Its been a strange few month's and I'm sure its been just as surreal for all. I've been off-line during this pandemic training for marathons and arrived in Madrid one week ago ahead of September's schedule to explore the city and support the ecomomy. I've asked estate agents to look out for accommodation on the Madrid route but they where determined to signpost me to availability of accommodation in Madrid so I've decided to go for it. I'm attending friends of the Camino Madrid tonight and Camino pack not as prepared but being my 5th Camino in almost 2 years I'm always prepared and open to every opportunity. My purpose on this occasion is too return to nature, experience a conversation with my being, offer gratitude to the higher level of intelligence, walk purposefully with hope and look out for prospective Si Vende for future Albergue and follow universal signs on the way. I'm open and grateful to anyone's recommendation of where would make for a new life in the Sun on the Camino Madrid?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Derrybiketours, I'd wondered where you'd gone! Wow, a potential permanent move to Spain is a very "big step"! I'm sure you will get many great suggestions.

 

[Derrybiketours]

@Derrybiketours, I'd wondered where you'd gone! Wow, a potential permanent move to Spain is a very "big step"! I'm sure you will get many great suggestions.

Thanks Chrissy, I'm not sure its a permanent move to Spain, it feels like I'm returning home. Like many the Camino has been a transformative experience. I've been preparing, setting up a Camino tour business called Camino Love Tours just following my passion and looking for a place to call home

 

[Camino Chrissy]

following my passion and looking for a place to call home

A place to "hang your hat"!

 

[Derrybiketours]

A place to "hang your hat"!

 

[KinkyOne]

Its been a strange few month's and I'm sure its been just as surreal for all. I've been off-line during this pandemic training for marathons and arrived in Madrid one week ago ahead of September's schedule to explore the city and support the ecomomy. I've asked estate agents to look out for accommodation on the Madrid route but they where determined to signpost me to availability of accommodation in Madrid so I've decided to go for it. I'm attending friends of the Camino Madrid tonight and Camino pack not as prepared but being my 5th Camino in almost 2 years I'm always prepared and open to every opportunity. My purpose on this occasion is too return to nature, experience a conversation with my being, offer gratitude to the higher level of intelligence, walk purposefully with hope and look out for prospective Si Vende for future Albergue and follow universal signs on the way. I'm open and grateful to anyone's recommendation of where would make for a new life in the Sun on the Camino Madrid?

Thinking of places on CdM that would need proper albergue few towns/villages comes to mind:
- Tres Cantos (pretty soulless town but although there is kind of municipal "albergue" this first natural stage from Madrid Centro would definitely deserve one),
- Colmenar Viejo (much prettier than TC and without albergue of any kind, just private options but would make for a nice break if you start in Madrid outskirts and skip TC),
- Navacerrada (also without albergue, very touristy place but a bit unusual spot to break the stage before the stage Cercedilla - Segovia),
- Segovia (you would definitely have some business here even if the accommodation is plentiful),
- Valdestillas (also without albergue but might be nice place to stay for someone planing whole next day walking to Valladolid through Puente Duero for example),
- Simancas (this place definitely deserves albergue but the problem might be that there are two just before (Puente Duero) and after (Ciguňuela) which would make quite different stages),
- Wamba (small, isolated, quiet, but with beautiful Visigothic church).

CdM has so many different options of setting the stages. You can even make very short days except the one over the Guadarrama Ridge. Well, I guess you'll see it for yourself pretty soon

Buen Camino!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

"Total Recall", Kinky! And I'm not talking talking about Arnold's movie!

 

[Albertagirl]

Others have pretty much covered the Camino de Madrid, which I walked as the first third of my pilgrimage last fall: Madrid to Frances to Invierno to Santiago. I stayed in The Hat in Madrid, and loved it, both for the accommodation and for the location, which made it easy for me to visit the Church of Santiago and St John the Baptist nearby to get my first sello and for the pilgrim blessing in the evening. To confirm the route for the morning and shorten the walk somewhat, I walked the beginning of the route from there to a nearby Metro stop, then crosswise back to the Hat for the night. The walk to Tres Cantos was a perfect distance for me. The supposed albergue in the basement of the Ayuntamiento, was closed, apparently permanently. I had previously booked a room in Hostal Tres Cantos, but had to revise my schedule and it was fully booked when I went through, so I stayed in VP Jardin Tres Cantos: expensive but satisfactory. If you are on a budget, it is worth booking a place in Tres Cantos in advance, and keeping to your schedule, if you can. I had a similar problem in La Granja, where I had chosen to take the alternate route and the very popular Albergue Camino de Lis was fully booked. I wouldn't go there again without a secure booking. Hotel Roma was adequate and inexpensive, but I was well away from the garden and palace area of La Granja and I went on directly to Segovia in the morning. I stayed in Duermavela Hostel in Segovia, perfect location, reasonable price. From there on, I had no problems with accommodation or meals on to Sahagun.
BUT Don't walk this route in the autumn if you have the least sensitivity to dust. Last fall was very dry when I walked the Madrid. From Segovia onward was, indeed, much like the Meseta, but very much drier. And the fields were full of farmers cultivating prior to planting. I walked through clouds of dust day after day, choking. I would also suggest, considering blogs which I have read from other walkers, don't walk this route in the winter or early spring unless you are willing to miss the walk through Fuenfria Pass and take the train from Cercedilla to Segovia, as some members of this forum have done when the pass was closed due to snow. This was a rewarding walk in many ways, but if I walk it again it will be in the late spring, when the snow has melted in Fuenfria Pass.

 

[Derrybiketours]

Thinking of places on CdM that would need proper albergue few towns/villages comes to mind

@kinkyThanks a million for this beautifully constructed considered response and I believe it answers my questions and more. Tres Cantos sounds like it could do with a little Marvin Gaye in its life, close enough to be computable Madrid for personal exploration and adequate enough distance for first days gentle walk for those who prefer to leave from the City. I had planned to depart at 7am but after visiting friends of Camino office yesterday evening I left behind my guidebook so it reopens this morning at 11am and it's just one of those lovely Camino signs closely followed by one of the many coincidences I receive all to be revealed or not. Maybe on this occasion I ought to attempt a live Forum Trip report

 

[Derrybiketours]

I stayed in The Hat in Madrid, and loved it, both for the accommodation and for the location, which made it easy for me to visit the Church of Santiago and St John the Baptist nearby to get my first sello and for the pilgrim blessing in the evening.

@Albertagirl Thanks a million for your kind response and I've stayed in 'the hat' on the last 4 occasions and agree its a little gem. On this occasion I decided on an Airbnb as for a little bit more you get a lot. The hat charge 20 euro per night (5% discount online). Marcos, Steve and some of the familiar faces that I knew have left and lost their jobs due to the unfortunate decline in demand due to the pandemic. They no longer offer an all you can eat buffet style breakfast but on the plus side if it can be considered as such everyone who stays at present has been allocated their own dorm in one of its 46 rooms.

 

[KinkyOne]

@kinkyThanks a million for this beautifully constructed considered response and I believe it answers my questions and more. Tres Cantos sounds like it could do with a little Marvin Gaye in its life, close enough to be computable Madrid for personal exploration and adequate enough distance for first days gentle walk for those who prefer to leave from the City. I had planned to depart at 7am but after visiting friends of Camino office yesterday evening I left behind my guidebook so it reopens this morning at 11am and it's just one of those lovely Camino signs closely followed by one of the many coincidences I receive all to be revealed or not. Maybe on this occasion I ought to attempt a live Forum Trip report

If you're a purist you'll walk the whole way. Maybe even start tomorrow for that reason. But I can tell you that you won't miss much by taking the cercanias at least to Fuencarral if not to Tres Cantos. The part from TC to Colmenar Viejo is the first one that really puts you on the Camino. Maybe that's why I walked it twice

 

[Derrybiketours]

I stayed in Duermavela Hostel in Segovia, perfect location, reasonable price. From there on, I had no problems with accommodation or meals on to Sahagun.
BUT Don't walk this route in the autumn if you have the least sensitivity to dust.

Thanks for the tip and I would have a sensitivity to dust but on this occasion I'm more sensitive to the mid forties heat that I expect to experience in my Late July walk but my trusty Tiley should offer some protection

 

[Derrybiketours]

If you're a purist you'll walk the whole way. Maybe even start tomorrow for that reason. But I can tell you that you won't miss much by taking the cercanias at least to Fuencarral if not to Tres Cantos. The part from TC to Colmenar Viejo is the first one that really puts you on the Camino. Maybe that's why I walked it twice

I'm not sure if on this occasion I'm walking this solely for an authentic personal camino experience as opposed to one eye (or foot) from others pov that might be less inclined to begin with a 25km first day. If given the choice I'd enjoy the challenge of attempting to walk as far as possible in one leg (not literally). My last walk into Santiago on October last year was a 70km saunter

 

[KinkyOne]

Keep us posted

Y buena suerte!

 

[Derrybiketours]

Keep us posted

Y buena suerte!

Cheers but being Irish I'm steeped in the stuff

 

[NualaOC]

Wishing you well in your endeavours, @Derrybiketours. This thread has brought on an extreme attack of nostalgia for the Camino de Madrid, and the Duermevela hostel in Segovia I'd strongly recommend staying there are making friends with the owners.
Good luck and Buen Camino!

 

[Derrybiketours]

Wishing you well in your endeavours, @Derrybiketours. This thread has brought on an extreme attack of nostalgia for the Camino de Madrid, and the Duermevela hostel in Segovia I'd strongly recommend staying there are making friends with the owners.
Good luck and Buen Camino!

Thanks for the encouragement @NualaOC and your the second considerate pilgrim to recommend this place so look forward to staying there and meeting up with the owner and I'll say you said hi and that we must remain good friends

 

[KinkyOne]

Cheers but being Irish I'm steeped in the stuff

So how was it today?

 

[Derrybiketours]

So how was it today?

I'm toying with the idea of doing a live update but I find a little resistance on my part as always try to remain in present and find joy in every single moment even the not so joyful ones. Today was an urban adventure trying to escape the city and unsuccessfully attempting to locate waymarkers and successfully getting lost in the urban sprawl and literally going around in circles. I will try to create a live feed when I learn how to and appreciate asking. I left later than expected, walked a shorter 11km distance than expected and took longer than expected. Good thing I don't have expectations and returned by subway to Madrid and spent evening nursing a sunburnt neck, shoulder fatigue but few pints of the black stuff at the James Joyce and good night's kip will have me good to go again tomorrow. To be honest I'm relieved to be free as spent weekend in local prison in social isolation living off salt biscuits for a misdemeanour I was falsely accused of and later aquitted aquitted. Its a long story

 

[Albertagirl]

I'm relieved to be free as spent weekend in local prison in social isolation living off salt biscuits for a misdemeanour I was falsely accused if and aquitted. Its a long story

Well, the Irish are great story tellers.

 

[Derrybiketours]

Here's some pics as they say a picture tells a story or 1,000 words whichever you prefer or is it a 1000 stories

 

[KinkyOne]

Wonderful start

 

[Derrybiketours]

....

 

[Derrybiketours]

.....

 

[Derrybiketours]

Paperwork exercise...advise to carry two passports...worth a fortune on eBay

 

[Derrybiketours]

Well, the Irish are great story tellers.

If only the walls could speak

 

[AZgirl]

I loved the Madrid! I walked in fall 2017, and I like to think it was almost like walking the Frances awhile ago. I used the Johnnie walker guide. I only met 7 pilgrims. There were plenty of adventures of trying to track down who had the key to the albergue, I was the only Pilgrim several times, slept in a gym, and the police station in tres cantos that had those awful hours of 11pm to 6 am.

There are some great churches. Medina del rioseco was well worth the tour to see I think 4 churches and the museum? (Only one in my tour even though my Spanish couldn't keep up it was great) I ended up taking a rest day there as I arrived on a Monday when all the churches were closed. I hope staying with the nuns is still an option, though there are lots of options here, the main street

Someone here on the board mentioned you can staying in a palace, so I was of course I was up for that.grajal de Campos. It was amazing, they left have run of the place! The albergue was on the lower level and above you could wander around the place. It was so wonderful. They were still doing construction, so the kitchen wasn't done, and what appeared to be a nice patio was off limits, as they were still working. It was another place I was the only one, and there was a nice bar around the corner.

It was a shock getting to sahagun and seeing the parade of pilgrims, but it did make me appreciate the community aspect of the Camino even more.

I would do it again in a heart beat.

I too had trouble leaving Madrid, I ended using the app wikiloc as you could follow the trail with your phones GPS without data.

I look forward to living vicariously through your updates!

Ash

 

[Derrybiketours]

I loved the Madrid! I walked in fall 2017

Thankyou for your wisdom and insight into potential places to stay. If by Fall you mean September I'm inclinned to favour the same approach as previously planned. Previously I've walked the France both times in September and Portuguese in November and being my first Summer pilgrimage I feel the need to prepare more. All will be revealed in my post to follow

 

[Derrybiketours]

A picture is worth a thousand words...and some observations of this route and story as to why I've had to cut it short to follow with the hope of continuing it in the fall. Let's just say I received my Damascus moment, answer to my question and reached Santiago sooner than expected.

 

[Derrybiketours]

....

 

[Derrybiketours]

...om my Camino I try to capture all what's good and not so good so if easily offended at witnessing animals in distress I would advise not to examine the last thumbnail in this sequence of 10 images

 

[Derrybiketours]

...soon after these images where taken my phone battery lost charge and the last task before losing power was too update my observations in my phone notepad....

 

[Derrybiketours]

Random Rambling Observations:

At the collegio bianco it begins to look more Camino like. The yellow arrows begin to appear some more arrow like than others

The graphitti on the walls look to be more of a locals interpretation of their community than positive Camino slogans seen on France Camino.

On exiting tunnels paths open up without clear direction of travel but if in doubt travel more trodden route. On the France I would do opposite.

On the trail I met no one today and apart from the local jogger I had the place to my self with the sound of birds flying overhead and cricket for company. The familiar white butterfly also made an appearance to let me know all is well in my world.

Soft underfoot with mixture of fine sand and particles of granite that make for satisfactory crunch and grip. The trail appears to be wider than the France and less trip hazards or trees to negotiate.

I've never witnessed so many birds of prey as I expect nature thrives on this trail as less pilgrims to disturb. A bird lovers paradise.

I met a local man, Jose walking in opposite direction and suggested he has never seen so many birds, 50 in air. I explained its the power of Santiago. He laughed.


The trial is obviously designed for both walkers and cyclists and up until now I've been on the wider cycle path. The narrow more up and down terrain suits me better.

This trail seems to be more open with wide open planes with views to the mountains in distance. Despite the warm weather and less shade theirs a cool breeze making for ideal walking conditions

It's common occurrence for baby rabbits to cross your trail. The mismatch of trails is maze like and could definitely be an issue for some finding themselves panicking and lost. If in doubt walk to highest point and locate closest property and walk in that direction. I would recommend traveling with 11/2 litre water as water fountains aren't as evident as France

The loose sand and breeze does make possibility of stone in shoe more common than experienced on France

The decision to take the narrow tree lined path as opposed to the wider open less sheltered one was misguided. I ended up lost, sonething that rarely happens me on any Camino especially so early on. As a back up I have maps app loaded on my phone that links to my GPS off-line and got me back on track. I expect if you try to wing it expect to get lost, hence carry enough water at beginning and expect to drink it warm at least in 45 degrees in July

There is a distinct lack of clear unambiguous regular interval yellow arrows and notice some concrete plinths where you would expect arrows are not utilised. One plinth had yellow arrow whited out.

End of ramblings and story to follow

 

[timr]

There are some great churches. Medina del rioseco was well worth the tour to see I think 4 churches and the museum? (Only one in my tour even though my Spanish couldn't keep up it was great) I ended up taking a rest day there as I arrived on a Monday when all the churches were closed. I hope staying with the nuns is still an option, though there are lots of options here, the main street

The 'wonderful nuns' have gone. I hope they are never to be forgotten.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/black-friday-on-cdm.51797/

 

[Camino Chrissy]

In your post #29 I seriously thought your trip was cut short for some reason. I can see now that you were speaking metaphorically...good news.

 

[Derrybiketours]

In your post #29 I seriously thought your trip was cut short for some reason. I can see now that you were speaking metaphorically...good news.

No In reality it has been, ill explain later as back in Madrid in recovery mode and I'm investigating further some of my findings regarding Si Vende opportunities.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

No In reality it has been, ill explain later as back in Madrid in recovery mode and I'm investigating further some of my findings regarding Si Vende opportunities.

I've been wondering what went wrong for you, Deery. I hope you do not have to return home before you intended.

 

[AZgirl]

Thankyou for your wisdom and insight into potential places to stay. If by Fall you mean September I'm inclinned to favour the same approach as previously planned. Previously I've walked the France both times in September and Portuguese in November and being my first Summer pilgrimage I feel the need to prepare more. All will be revealed in my post to follow

Yes I walked from about mid September on. Summer walking is no joke! I grew up in Arizona and so always was able to deal with heat. After being away for about a year and a half came back and was going to hike a local peak with a friend. It was may and not even 100, we only had been hiking about 15 mins I passed out and tumbled down. I was so scratched up form all the scraggly desert plants, even worse I had a big raw patch right on one of my cheeks. Of course people are wondering what happened, and my friend thought it was hilarious. I usually hike/walk by myself so it was really lucky I wasn't. Now that I think about it I haven't climbed it since. I've been back in Arizona for some years I have my tolerance back.

 

[AZgirl]

The 'wonderful nuns' have gone. I hope they are never to be forgotten.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/black-friday-on-cdm.51797/

That's too bad, there was some talk the nuns might be leaving or albergue closing,but I was holding out hope.

 

[Derrybiketours]

Yes I walked from about mid September on. Summer walking is no joke! I grew up in Arizona and so always was able to deal with heat. After being away for about a year and a half came back and was going to hike a local peak with a friend. It was may and not even 100, we only had been hiking about 15 mins I passed out and tumbled down. I was so scratched up form all the scraggly desert plants, even worse I had a big raw patch right on one of my cheeks. Of course people are wondering what happened, and my friend thought it was hilarious. I usually hike/walk by myself so it was really lucky I wasn't. Now that I think about it I haven't climbed it since. I've been back in Arizona for some years I have my tolerance back.

Wow, lucky indeed and I'm sure your friend wasnt to blame although in my experience unfortunate events tend to happen when distracted by others or as a result of others misguided actions and meaningful intentions. Good to hear you survived relatively unscathed and learned a valuable lesson. I learned a similar lesson and the importance of preparation and the necessity of season specific packing, Nature and the elements can be a unforgiving teacher

 

[jpflavin1]

Its been a strange few month's and I'm sure its been just as surreal for all. I've been off-line during this pandemic training for marathons and arrived in Madrid one week ago ahead of September's schedule to explore the city and support the ecomomy. I've asked estate agents to look out for accommodation on the Madrid route but they where determined to signpost me to availability of accommodation in Madrid so I've decided to go for it. I'm attending friends of the Camino Madrid tonight and Camino pack not as prepared but being my 5th Camino in almost 2 years I'm always prepared and open to every opportunity. My purpose on this occasion is too return to nature, experience a conversation with my being, offer gratitude to the higher level of intelligence, walk purposefully with hope and look out for prospective Si Vende for future Albergue and follow universal signs on the way. I'm open and grateful to anyone's recommendation of where would make for a new life in the Sun on the Camino Madrid?

Colmenar Viejo and Tres cantos could both use an Albergue. Both Pueblo's have everything else you need.

That said, I am not sure the Camino Madrid has enough traffic yet?

One of my favorites for a 2 week walk.

 

[jpflavin1]

Yes I walked from about mid September on. Summer walking is no joke! I grew up in Arizona and so always was able to deal with heat. After being away for about a year and a half came back and was going to hike a local peak with a friend. It was may and not even 100, we only had been hiking about 15 mins I passed out and tumbled down. I was so scratched up form all the scraggly desert plants, even worse I had a big raw patch right on one of my cheeks. Of course people are wondering what happened, and my friend thought it was hilarious. I usually hike/walk by myself so it was really lucky I wasn't. Now that I think about it I haven't climbed it since. I've been back in Arizona for some years I have my tolerance back.

Arizona, one of my favorite hikes each Spring is "Flat Iron". If I can still do that, I know I can still walk any Camino.