Declining numbers recorded on the Via de la Plata

[C clearly]

Going without food when arriving at the wrong time in the small villages.

Ah, yes. Fond memories! I am old and like some comfort too, but don't mind if the universe laughs at them occasionally. My Easter Sunday dinner in Alija del Infantado (on the way to Astorga) was memorable. Even the gas station had run low on supplies. I started with house wine (awful) with some kind of crispy snack. As I recall, it was followed by honey-barbeque-flavoured peanuts (even worse) and a Magnum ice cream bar (it is hard to spoil a Magnum bar).

Do you recall where Easter fell whilst you were walking that year,

Walking into Salamanca on a sunny Palm Sunday was fabulous - arriving at the cathedral just in time to join the procession arriving there. At least at that time (2017), the albergue didn't take reservations so it was possible for those who arrived early enough.

 

[J.Patrick]

Thank you all for your thoughts. I’ve never been more inclined to do the VDLP than I am now after hearing of your experiences. Grateful here.

 

[Rita Flower]

Many news articles recently commenting on the record number of Compostelas issued in 2024. By contrast an article from a Zamora website today notes that while pilgrim numbers on other routes have grown significantly in recent years numbers walking the Via de la Plata in particular have declined over the past decade. Some comment from a local Amigos group about a lack of investment and promotion from local authorities. I found myself in two minds while reading the piece. Better infrastructure could make the Via de la Plata an easier and more comfortable route to walk. But would that change its special character?

El Camino de Santiago de la Vía de la Plata cae un 10% en una década y la mayor parte de los peregrinos no pasa por Zamora

Los datos de 2024 son inferiores a los de 2015 en un contexto de gran crecimiento en la llegada de peregrinos a la ciudad santa

enfoquezamora.com

It seems to me that there is a myth that the VDLP is a very hard Camino - so many people said this to me when I was walking the Francés this year. I used to call it ‘the old people’s Camino’ because it is relatively flat so much of the time. Compared to Le Puy to Conques and even the Francés I found VDLP relatively easy.
However it is quite a solitary Camino and perhaps not to everyone’s taste. I also notice that the Norte (a physically hard Camino) and Portugese Coastal have become very popular - I think people from non-coastal locations love the idea of a long walk along the coast.
Perhaps in these days of instant gratification the Via seems less attractive.

 

[Moniq]

I'll be walking the VDLP, starting in Sevilla, at the end of March. This will be my third Camino (2nd route). I'm a bit anxious at the challenges of the lack of infrastructure support and the solitary nature of the Camino. Unlike so many here (on the forums in general), I don't view the significant lack of pilgrims as a great benefit of this route. I recently watched the youtube vlogs of an older gentleman who walked the VDLP and he commented on how he and others would purposely slow down or speed up to avoid catching up to each other; presumably because catching up and saying hello to each other was a situation to be avoided at all costs? I found that sad. While I don't like or want a conga line of pilgrims, 5 pilgrims purposely avoiding each other on 27 kilometer stages isn't the environment I hope to find either. In any case, I chose this route as a physical and spiritual challenge foremost, yet hope to meet interesting friendly folks along the way. But, I'll adapt to whatever I find.

I saw that video as well and had the same thoughts. I will also start somewhere between half and end of coming March. If I see you I will definitely say hi

 

[PaulMCP]

Now I want to walk the Via de la Plata again...
Sevilla - Cáceres seems like a nice 2 weeks walk

I’m doing Seville-Caceres in late Sept - can’t wait!

 

[TravellingMan22]

Never done that but please describe it if you do.

Will do for sure?

 

[TravellingMan22]

Hi, walked April 22 from Cadiz to Astorga and then Sanabres to SdC and on to finisterre/muxia. I really enjoyed it. In hindsight I would have gone Astorga to Leon then San Salvador/ primitivo. Have a blog on track my tour if of help. No other pilgrims. Jerez de la Frontera was a highlight for me. I'd read some very negative reports before I went but found it a very enjoyable 6 days and a great precursor to the vdp.

This sounds great . Thank you. Yes any blog or references will be fab!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

There really is no issue with food or water you just might carry a few more snacks on some days.

Ok, wait. Water is important. On the Frances, Norte, Portuguese, etc. I usually carry 1 liter of water as there are often opportunities for that nice chlorinated tap water available. On the VDLP I carry more water. Not insane amounts, like 2 -3 liters (depending on the stage of course).

 

[Lindsay53]

Ah, yes. Fond memories! I am old and like some comfort too, but don't mind if the universe laughs at them occasionally. My Easter Sunday dinner in Alija del Infantado (on the way to Astorga) was memorable. Even the gas station had run low on supplies. I started with house wine (awful) with some kind of crispy snack. As I recall, it was followed by honey-barbeque-flavoured peanuts (even worse) and a Magnum ice cream bar (it is hard to spoil a Magnum bar).
View attachment 183705 View attachment 183706

I remember the walk through the pouring rain from the albergue to that petrol station in Alija de Infantado to get supplies for my dinner - microvave hamburgers. The Camino provides, but in strange ways sometimes.

 

[Texas Walker]

It could be that the numbers are dropping because of albergues having closed on important stages. Like the alberge at the embalse de Alcántara. I walked the VdlP in 2013/2014 and loved it. I have looked into it again recently, but I got very reluctant when I saw how long some stages have gotten (combined with being more than 10 years older now, that is).

I remember the longest stages back then were 'only' 27/28 kms. Seems like there are quite a bit more challenges now. So I am afraid the problem won't be that it will ever get (too) popular, but more the other way around. Lack of pilgrims could lead to more albergue closures. A lot of the villages and towns on the VdlP are very similar to the Francés: isolated, losing population and facilities. And the number of pilgrims on the VdlP is not high enough to keep businesses up.

It is true that some guidebooks set stages. And some people think that those stages are necessary to "do it right." It is also true that working carefully with the maps and guidebooks and Gronze can make most of the hideously long stages turn into shorter stage, but more days. I had the same thought about the Norte, though, where the guidebooks also have some very long stages listed. And sometimes it is necessary to accept a shorter stage before the long one in order that the long one be less long--it all depends on how the reorganization of the plan works out.
YMMV

 

[bakedbeans]

I'll be walking the VDLP, starting in Sevilla, at the end of March. This will be my third Camino (2nd route). I'm a bit anxious at the challenges of the lack of infrastructure support and the solitary nature of the Camino. Unlike so many here (on the forums in general), I don't view the significant lack of pilgrims as a great benefit of this route. I recently watched the youtube vlogs of an older gentleman who walked the VDLP and he commented on how he and others would purposely slow down or speed up to avoid catching up to each other; presumably because catching up and saying hello to each other was a situation to be avoided at all costs? I found that sad. While I don't like or want a conga line of pilgrims, 5 pilgrims purposely avoiding each other on 27 kilometer stages isn't the environment I hope to find either. In any case, I chose this route as a physical and spiritual challenge foremost, yet hope to meet interesting friendly folks along the way. But, I'll adapt to whatever I find.

Maybe the VDLP isn't the best option for you then and there's nothing wrong with that. It is different to the Frances and tends to attract those that want what it provides. The people on it might not be the most sociable.

I did it September of 2020 when Covid was still a thing. From Seville to Santiago I met 8 other pilgrims in total. 2 of whom could speak English (which is all I speak). One of those English speakers I met once, the other I think a couple of times.

 

[Texas Walker]

That’s also easy to work around. Walk from Tábara to Santa Croya (22), and the next day to Villar de Farfón or Rionegro de Puente.

But maybe you are trying to plan non-albergue stages?

We hit Santa Croya de Tera on a Sunday. The tienda was not open. No restaurants were open. One bar was open, but the only food it had was chips. On the good side, the church tour was great. Just So You Know.

 

[walkabouts]

I suspect some pilgrims hesitate on walking this route because a good few think stages are too long... with poor support. I would maintain that, with good pre-planning, it is quite easy to break the VdlP into very manageable stages (only one day put us above a walk of 30 km). This is a very 'doable' Spring/Autumn pilgrimage, with so much to offer those that are looking for a 'road less travelled'. Buen Camino.

Agree completely, it can be done with similar walking days as CF apart from the 34 km stage. You need to be a bit flexible and even stray off the "line" so that you break the days up. Dont be tied to having to walk the "stages", it is not necessary at all. We planned for an average 18-22 km per day and took short days, sometimes only 10 km. You need to allow time to experience this camino. It is not a race to get there in a certain number of days. Enjoy the history, the vastness of Extremadura, the solitude and all that it brings. If you are on a tight time frame, choose another camino, otherwise you might be disappointed.

We sidestepped to Almendralejo so as not to have a 30 km day. Great town and we really enjoyed the hospitality and spontaneous interaction with the locals in a bar while we waited for the laundromat to finish. Grimaldo and Riolobos were memorable places to stop as well, somewhere different that many people bypass. The other long day going from Carcoboso through the ruins at Caparra can be shortened by walking to the Repsol hostel El Avion and then follow the via Verde, the old train track, and even head directly to Hervas. The camino track is not an absolute and if you are prepared to look at other options to make it work for you, then the services and places to stay are there for you.

The "recorded" numbers may be down as people may not have bothered for yet another compostela by the time they attempt this one. It was our favourite camino to date, and we would do it again in preference to CF a second time.

 

[walkabouts]

Hi Kev&Kath, I am planning to walk the VdlP at the end of March but have more than one stage over 30km in my plan to date, so I would be quite interested in knowing what stages you did and whether you stayed in albergues, hotels or somewhere else? Buen Camino

Happy to share our plan with you if you send me a message. There is a good thread about a virtual camino done during covid which we found very helpful. Everyone who had walked it came up with suggestions and options to make this a less daunting camino. But it certainly is easy to plan for an average 18-22 km days and short days thrown in for fun.

 

[peregrina2000]

On the good side, the church tour was great. Just So You Know.

Don't miss the tour of the church, and especially don't miss the oldest known statue of Santiago Peregrino, which stands outside at the door.

 

[bjorgts]

I was thinking Seville to SDC but a result of this thread am now thinking Cadiz as a starting point. I will go through previous threads but if anyone has any immediate thoughts of whether this adds a lot to the experience….. thank you,

I have walked Cadiz - Sevilla twice. This is a link to a short text and my photo video. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/via-augusta-cadiz-sevilla-a-video.47751/
May be I can give you more information if you have more spesific questions.

 

[jungleboy]

Here the response from Gronze.

For now we do not plan to modify the stages of the Vía de la Plata. They are a way of presenting the information, each pilgrim makes the stages he/she wants.

I must say I don't love this response. It's not just a way of presenting information, it's a suggestion for how to do your stages (e.g. there are other camino guides that present their information without stages, so it's not essential to do it that way, but if you do, these are the stages you are suggesting).

In practice, we know that many pilgrims follow Gronze stages quite closely. If there's no accommodation at the end of this stage any more, then it is not a practical stage as presented and in my view they should rethink it.

 

[Paul-CH]

If there's no accommodation at the end of this stage any more, then it is not a practical stage as presented and in my view they should rethink it

Well, I didn't expect such an answer, but the GRONZE website clearly states that the pilgrims' hostel is closed. Since we don't know if and when the situation will change again, I understand Gronze's reaction.
Every pilgrim is responsible for their own daily planning and as long as the information is correct, you can and must adapt your planning to the circumstances.
Someone who cannot/will not walk the 33km from Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral must know how to help themselves. Otherwise, there are easier pilgrimage routes with more cabs.

 

[Simon B]

This has been a most helpful set of posts. I plan to walk from Seville to Santiago starting on 13 Feb. I attach my ongoing draft of my plans - not finished yet and subject to daily revision. My main source of information is Gerald Kelly's Walking Guide which I have used before. I started my first attempt in Feb 2020 and had to go home early due to Covid. I am very much looking forward to this attempt - I am 73 with some health issues, but don't we all!!! Fingers [and toes] crossed.

Simon

 

[Paul-CH]

I attach my ongoing draft of my plans - not finished yet and subject to daily revision.

My first impression of you plan is good. Looks similar to what I did at March 2023 and reported at my blog.

 

[Ferga]

I haven't completely finalized stages yet as still in the planning phase, but currently have
Aljucén - Aldea del Cano @ 36km
Cáceres - Reservoir of Alcántara @ 33.5km but not sure if the albergue at the reservoir is still open
Tábara - Calzadilla de Tera @ 34.3km
Other than those three, my longest stage is 28km. Thanks

Definitely was not open last Spring and I was told (in Caceres and in Casar) no plans to re-open

 

[peregrina2000]

I attach my ongoing draft of my plans -

Looks like a great plan. I’ll throw out the suggestion that on the day you walk to Oliva de Plasencia, go by the Arco de Cáparra on the way in. If you do that, you will retrace your steps and go by it again on the way from Oliva in the morning. But at that time, everything at the Arch will be closed (except for the arch itself, of course!). So if you have an interest in visiting the site and the small museum, you won’t be able to do that unless you hang around for a few hours.

This map from may years ago (thank you @isabelle304) is a good schematic for how to take that alternative. What is means, though, is that it’s probably too long of a day from Galisteo to Oliva, so you would need to probably add a day, with shorter stages like Grimaldo - Carcaboso - Oliva or something like that. And that may make it a deal-breaker for you, but for those who are going to take shorter days, this is a very good option, imho.

 

[ParisOslo]

This has been a most helpful set of posts. I plan to walk from Seville to Santiago starting on 13 Feb. I attach my ongoing draft of my plans - not finished yet and subject to daily revision. My main source of information is Gerald Kelly's Walking Guide which I have used before. I started my first attempt in Feb 2020 and had to go home early due to Covid. I am very much looking forward to this attempt - I am 73 with some health issues, but don't we all!!! Fingers [and toes] crossed.

Simon

I would suggest to ask for the local taxi number every time you leave and hotel or albergue. This way if you are tired or if something happens you contact them and they will bring you to your next accommodation.

Knowing that food sometimes are not available everywhere bring a can or 2 of sardines at the bottom of your bag. Always happy to know they are there just in case.

Enjoy your trip

 

[jflorez]

Maybe the VDLP isn't the best option for you then and there's nothing wrong with that.

I may not have expressed it clearly, but, I'm not walking this or any other route for the social nature of it versus another, or the abundance or challenge in the scarcity of facilities/conveniences, or the landscape or the historical architecture of the route - though I do look forward to all of these. I'm walking to Santiago to venerate the remains of St. James in the Cathedral foremost. I would love to make connections with others doing the same because I feel it adds to and enriches the pilgrimage. However, if I find no other pilgrims with which to connect and find fellowship with, or just a few, or many along the way, I'll adapt just fine. And, you're absolutely right, it may not be the "best option" for me. On the other hand, I may find that it absolutely was. There is but one way to find out.

 

[mikeatspokes]

Definitely was not open last Spring and I was told (in Caceres and in Casar) no plans to re-open

Thanks, I have now revised my plans, and will aim to stop in Casar de Caceres, then the 33km to Canaveral

 

[jflorez]

Thanks, I have now revised my plans, and will aim to stop in Casar de Caceres, then the 33km to Canaveral

That's my plan: Stop in Casar and then do the 33km to Cañaveral. The elevation profile between the two show a loss of about 125 meters over the first 21 kilometers and a gain of just 100 over the remaining 12, so despite the distance, it doesn't appear to be excessively challenging.

 

[C clearly]

I recently watched the youtube vlogs of an older gentleman who walked the VDLP and he commented on how he and others would purposely slow down or speed up to avoid catching up to each other; presumably because catching up and saying hello to each other was a situation to be avoided at all costs?

Your presumption seems to be an exaggeration that isn't really fair.

I think I understand the situation that the vlogger commented on. On a route like the VDLP which attracts more solitary or independent walkers, when two walkers do come upon each other, it is a more significant event that on the Francés. I would think about my approach (one has lots of thinking time while walking and approaching a distant figure ahead on the wide open spaces) and I'd be very sensitive to their potential reaction as well as my own mood. I would studiously avoid imposing on their company, and I hope they would be similarly sensitive to me. I would be open to how the conversation develops, but I would expect to chat pleasantly for a moment or two or three, but then to continue our ways. This might be different if it is a person who I have met before and either liked or disliked. If the former, we might well have a longer conversation, but if the latter, then yes I might avoid them. That would be an unusual situation and would be the same on any camino.

This is quite different from the idea that "catching up and saying hello to each other was a situation to be avoided at all costs."

 

[TravellingMan22]

I have walked Cadiz - Sevilla twice. This is a link to a short text and my photo video. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/via-augusta-cadiz-sevilla-a-video.47751/
May be I can give you more information if you have more spesific questions.

Ah thank you very much. Very useful and will take a look. And thank you to those who are sending their plans. Will take a look.

I need to adjust my ‘turn up and walk’ approach! Pretty relaxed about the physical aspect of the hike, just need to work out the bed situation and make sure I have enough water.

My longest hike was the Norte which I think was around 29 days, and was beautiful, so a hike of 40 days or so will be interesting! Slight concern will get a little bit bored (same old, same old) but hopefully not. I always do lots of music playlists and will add a Ali of podcasts this time!

 

[ParisOslo]

Ah thank you very much. Very useful and will take a look. And thank you to those who are sending their plans. Will take a look.

I need to adjust my ‘turn up and walk’ approach! Pretty relaxed about the physical aspect of the hike, just need to work out the bed situation and make sure I have enough water.

My longest hike was the Norte which I think was around 29 days, and was beautiful, so a hike of 40 days or so will be interesting! Slight concern will get a little bit bored (same old, same old) but hopefully not. I always do lots of music playlists and will add a Ali of podcasts this time!

Perhaps for change and to discover something different try walking without music for the first 40 days…

You might well make a discovery about you!

 

[jflorez]

Your presumption seems to be an exaggeration that isn't really fair.

I think I understand the situation that the vlogger commented on. On a route like the VDLP which attracts more solitary or independent walkers, when two walkers do come upon each other, it is a more significant event that on the Francés. I would think about my approach (one has lots of thinking time while walking and approaching a distant figure ahead on the wide open spaces) and I'd be very sensitive to their potential reaction as well as my own mood. I would studiously avoid imposing on their company, and I hope they would be similarly sensitive to me. I would be open to how the conversation develops, but I would expect to chat pleasantly for a moment or two or three, but then to continue our ways. This might be different if it is a person who I have met before and either liked or disliked. If the former, we might well have a longer conversation, but if the latter, then yes I might avoid them. That would be an unusual situation and would be the same on any camino.

This is quite different from the idea that "catching up and saying hello to each other was a situation to be avoided at all costs."

I understand your point on the typical VDLP pilgrim, and the contrasting points of this Camino versus the Frances. I could only evaluate the situation based on what I saw in the video, however, and what the vlogger said of it. And, to clarify, by "catching up" I meant advancing upon, and overtaking, another at a faster pace; not "catching up" in order to socialize. I'm nowhere near that extroverted.

A short "Buen Camino" or "Hola", and maybe an "hace mucho calor/frio, no?" or whatever the situational context may allow in the moment, is what you [might] expect from me when I overtake someone, especially someone unfamiliar. This is what I meant by "saying hello". Additionally, over the many years, I've learned not to expect any response, or even acknowledgment after offering a short greeting. Though I find it strange when it happens, I'm fine with that, too.

My point was, and remains, I'm not going to stop and pause or reduce my pace to avoid contact with [an]other pilgrim(s), as this vlogger did, and confirmed by commentary.