Cruz de Ferro Decorum

[BillV]

After about a month on the Camino, I reached the Cruz de Ferro on May 31. I spent some time reflecting on forgiveness (granting and asking for it) and remembering friends and loved ones who have passed. I then placed my stone. Perhaps my expectations were unrealistic; however, I’d envisioned a mostly somber, reverential experience. The reality consisted of people clambering all over the accumulated stones, messages, and ashes placed by other pilgrims and riding bicycles upon these items. Please consider what the materials at the base of the Cruz de Ferro represent to your fellow pilgrims and tread upon them respectfully.

 

[Grousedoctor]

I was most fortunate to experience the peacefulness of Cruz de Ferro by arriving there just before sunrise (one advantage of overnighting in Foncebadon instead of Rabanal). The short walk up to the Cruz alone in the early morning air reinforced how special moments like this on the Camino can be. With no more than a couple other pilgrims there with me, the sacredness of this spot wasn’t tarnished by buses full of tourists or clueless hikers. Buen Camino.

 

[Tincatinker]

Ashes. Ashes? Has this modern myth become so embedded that people think it’s a Sepulcher?

@BillV I’m sorry that you got to witness the circus that visits the Cruz Ferro virtually everyday that the sun rises. Early or late in the day may offer tranquility

 

[Kathor1]

buses full of tourists or clueless hikers

Ashes. Ashes?

For the record: There is no indication whatsoever that pilgrims brought stones from home and left them at the Cruz de Ferro in earlier centuries.

There is written documentation that local travellers, especially seasonal workers who travelled for work from their homes in Galicia to the fields of Castilla y Leon stopped there to pray for a safe return home and threw a stone on the pile (19th and 20th century). This is why some Spanish pilgrims know of a tradition of picking up a stone and throwing it over their shoulder, with their backs turned to the heap of stones.

IOW, not everybody is familiar with a modern narrative that you are familiar with because you watched the movie and read it in your guidebook or on blogs on the internet.

It is the first time that I read that people leave ashes, i.e. human remains there - or at least believe that this is done.

I do understand how meaningful the Cruz de Ferro narrative and experience can be but there is an increasing tendency to assign a sacralisation to this heap of stones that many others are simply not aware of.

In my humble opinion, it would be better if there were only plain stones there and nothing else. It would certainly decrease the interest in climbing around there and looking at what others have left.

 

[Bradypus]

In my humble opinion, it would be better if there were only plain stones there and nothing else.

On my first Camino I read about the custom of throwing a stone on the pile in Elias Valiña's guidebook. Valiña suggests it originated as a boundary marker between the Maragateria and Bierzo. Nothing there about bringing a stone from home or the stone itself having personal mystical significance. I remember it as being a far simpler monument with only stones and not the huge accretion of tat which marks it today. Interesting how so much symbolic meaning has been attributed to the place in so little time.

 

[Tincatinker]

Newer Members, and those who missed it first time around, might enjoy this thread https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/is-this-true.26343/#post-210386
an interesting discussion on the origins of the Cruz Ferro mythologies and an example of this forum in good form

 

[Jodean]

At least 3 tour buses pulled up while I was there about 2 weeks ago. The place was overflowing with people. Nothing about the place felt reverent or mystical. It was a place for a photo op.

 

[David Tallan]

I know many won't agree with this, but I think that any sacredness in a place is not really in the place itself but in how we see and treat it. The meaning is in us. If a modern pilgrim invests a place with sacredness, it isn't any less sacred because pilgrims centuries ago didn't so invest it.

On the other hand, because the sacredness isn't inherent in the place, we can't necessarily say that people are profaning it if it is not sacred to them.

Common courtesy is to be respectful in a place we recognize that others regard as sacred (e.g. in houses of worship). But clearly not everyone recognizes the Cruz de Ferro as such a place.

 

[FourSeasons]

There are many favorite stops along The Way that are touristy/circus like now more then ever before and I’m sorry you had to experience this in what, in my opinion, should be a peaceful place for all.

I was fortunate to experience the tranquility of Cruz de Ferro on my first in 2013 and again on my third in 2019. Perhaps one day you will return and know to visit near sunrise or evening. May I suggest staying in Foncebadon, a short walk the next morning.

Sept 2013

August 2019

 

[henrythedog]

Newer Members, and those who missed it first time around, might enjoy this thread https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/is-this-true.26343/#post-210386
an interesting discussion on the origins of the Cruz Ferro mythologies and an example of this forum in good form

A splendid old thread and a reminder of valued contributors and moderators past and present.

I’ve passed the Cruz five or six times, mostly when the road-menders shovels have recycled the contributions to improve the local infrastructure. The first time, more memorably when through the mist and driving snow the cross itself was barely visible.

I do hope nobody actually believes their contribution will remain there in perpetuity; the cross would have disappeared long ago if that were the case. The mortal remains of the dear departed along with mineral samples from every country may well be infilling a pothole on the nearest RN in a few years time.

 

[pastorsharon]

We were at Cruz de Ferro earlier this week. We did place stones that we brought from home -- after we sat for nearly half an hour watching, listening, praying. For me, the sacredness of Cruz de Ferro is not the stone but the fact that it is being placed at the foot of the Cross.

 

[Raymond Aquilina]

I was most fortunate to experience the peacefulness of Cruz de Ferro by arriving there just before sunrise (one advantage of overnighting in Foncebadon instead of Rabanal). The short walk up to the Cruz alone in the early morning air reinforced how special moments like this on the Camino can be. With no more than a couple other pilgrims there with me, the sacredness of this spot wasn’t tarnished by buses full of tourists or clueless hikers. Buen Camino.

View attachment 148375

I had this same fortune to arrive at Cruz de Ferro just before sunrise. I spent about 15min alonein front of this cross with my headtorch on and then watched sunrise and the first pilgrims arriving. I consider this as one of the best experiences of my life.

 

[KCJ]

After about a month on the Camino, I reached the Cruz de Ferro on May 31. I spent some time reflecting on forgiveness (granting and asking for it) and remembering friends and loved ones who have passed. I then placed my stone. Perhaps my expectations were unrealistic; however, I’d envisioned a mostly somber, reverential experience. The reality consisted of people clambering all over the accumulated stones, messages, and ashes placed by other pilgrims and riding bicycles upon these items. Please consider what the materials at the base of the Cruz de Ferro represent to your fellow pilgrims and tread upon them respectfully.

This is why I did not leave my stone.
There are 2 more places after that, for me, felt more sacred.

 

[dbeatriceb]

I know many won't agree with this, but I think that any sacredness in a place is not really in the place itself but in how we see and treat it. The meaning is in us. If a modern pilgrim invests a place with sacredness, it isn't any less sacred because pilgrims centuries ago didn't so invest it.

On the other hand, because the sacredness isn't inherent in the place, we can't necessarily say that people are profaning it if it is not sacred to them.

Common courtesy is to be respectful in a place we recognize that others regard as sacred (e.g. in houses of worship). But clearly not everyone recognizes the Cruz de Ferro as such a place.

I agree with you and also find it is futile to lament the lack of courtesy that often seems to be the norm these days.

 

[malingerer]

A splendid old thread and a reminder of valued contributors and moderators past and present.

I’ve passed the Cruz five or six times, mostly when the road-menders shovels have recycled the contributions to improve the local infrastructure. The first time, more memorably when through the mist and driving snow the cross itself was barely visible.

I do hope nobody actually believes their contribution will remain there in perpetuity; the cross would have disappeared long ago if that were the case. The mortal remains of the dear departed along with mineral samples from every country may well be infilling a pothole on the nearest RN in a few years time.

I love it! I tried explaining this to fellow pilgies years ago and was met with disbelief, hostility and accusations of heresy! I , of course, have my own little spot, quite unseen , where I hang me own relics, symbols and luck charms

Samarkand.

 

[Helen Robinson]

For the record: There is no indication whatsoever that pilgrims brought stones from home and left them at the Cruz de Ferro in earlier centuries.

There is written documentation that local travellers, especially seasonal workers who travelled for work from their homes in Galicia to the fields of Castilla y Leon stopped there to pray for a safe return home and threw a stone on the pile (19th and 20th century). This is why some Spanish pilgrims know of a tradition of picking up a stone and throwing it over their shoulder, with their backs turned to the heap of stones.

IOW, not everybody is familiar with a modern narrative that you are familiar with because you watched the movie and read it in your guidebook or on blogs on the internet.

It is the first time that I read that people leave ashes, i.e. human remains there - or at least believe that this is done.

I do understand how meaningful the Cruz de Ferro narrative and experience can be but there is an increasing tendency to assign a sacralisation to this heap of stones that many others are simply not aware of.

In my humble opinion, it would be better if there were only plain stones there and nothing else. It would certainly decrease the interest in climbing around there and looking at what others have left.

I had read that the cairn predates the Romans and probably Christianity.

Being there pre dawn was a highlight of my camino

 

[Kathor1]

I had read that the cairn predates the Romans and probably Christianity.

I have no doubts whatsoever that you read that.

 

[pjacobi]

It is the first time that I read that people leave ashes, i.e. human remains there - or at least believe that this is done.

I'm not surprised. People dump human remains all over Disney World!


-Paul

 

[gloria lowe]

My thought is leave no trace. Just as I would want it in my home country. Only take pictures and leave with memories.

 

[WayWalker]

After about a month on the Camino, I reached the Cruz de Ferro on May 31. I spent some time reflecting on forgiveness (granting and asking for it) and remembering friends and loved ones who have passed. I then placed my stone. Perhaps my expectations were unrealistic; however, I’d envisioned a mostly somber, reverential experience. The reality consisted of people clambering all over the accumulated stones, messages, and ashes placed by other pilgrims and riding bicycles upon these items. Please consider what the materials at the base of the Cruz de Ferro represent to your fellow pilgrims and tread upon them respectfully.

I personally found other places to be more thought provoking and spiritual for me. The Cruz was interesting but did not speak to me in ways other places did. I've never been a follow the crowd type so may well have done this to myself!

 

[Saint Mike II]

After about a month on the Camino, I reached the Cruz de Ferro on May 31. I spent some time reflecting on forgiveness (granting and asking for it) and remembering friends and loved ones who have passed. I then placed my stone. Perhaps my expectations were unrealistic; however, I’d envisioned a mostly somber, reverential experience. The reality consisted of people clambering all over the accumulated stones, messages, and ashes placed by other pilgrims and riding bicycles upon these items. Please consider what the materials at the base of the Cruz de Ferro represent to your fellow pilgrims and tread upon them respectfully.

Hola, you are not alone ! I have made the the Cruz twice, in 2015 & 2017. In 2015 I had time to place my two stones and reflect on where I was and what my actions meant. When I returned in 2017 I had the misfortune to follow a group of twenty or more tourists from a country I will not name but they have descended on Europe like locusts. Anyway, they just barged in on true pilgrims who were placing their stones, taking appropriate photos and absorbing the moment. Then to top it off, I climbed to the top to place my stone only to discover female underwear, a half empty wine bottle and general litter. No not pilgrim notes but used tissues. I was so disappointed, I left without even taking a photo.

 

[jpatharris]

After about a month on the Camino, I reached the Cruz de Ferro on May 31. I spent some time reflecting on forgiveness (granting and asking for it) and remembering friends and loved ones who have passed. I then placed my stone. Perhaps my expectations were unrealistic; however, I’d envisioned a mostly somber, reverential experience. The reality consisted of people clambering all over the accumulated stones, messages, and ashes placed by other pilgrims and riding bicycles upon these items. Please consider what the materials at the base of the Cruz de Ferro represent to your fellow pilgrims and tread upon them respectfully.

Mid-November 2022

 

[Sanchoxote]

This is why I did not leave my stone.
There are 2 more places after that, for me, felt more sacred.

Care to share where?

 

[Camino Joe 2021]

View attachment 148535
Mid-November 2022

Your comments, notwithstanding the tissue issue, I had a very similar experience with tourists and disrespectful visitors during my 2022 Camino.

I too, was shocked and mortified until I realized that while I considered this a sacred place, not everyone does. I didn't agree with their actions, but I did not judge them. It's not the way I wanted to act on my Camino or in everyday life. They have one way and I have another. That's OK for both of us.

It remains my greatest lesson learned about life and it's reflection - the Camino.

 

[tpmchugh]

After about a month on the Camino, I reached the Cruz de Ferro on May 31. I spent some time reflecting on forgiveness (granting and asking for it) and remembering friends and loved ones who have passed. I then placed my stone. Perhaps my expectations were unrealistic; however, I’d envisioned a mostly somber, reverential experience. The reality consisted of people clambering all over the accumulated stones, messages, and ashes placed by other pilgrims and riding bicycles upon these items. Please consider what the materials at the base of the Cruz de Ferro represent to your fellow pilgrims and tread upon them respectfully.

I could have written this myself. I found my moment disrupted by an almost football crowd experience by cyclists being extremely loud and standing on the mound waving their bikes in the air. Same cyclist knocked me over on the path down from the cruz going at breakneck speed on a path with the road just a matter of feet away. never even stopped to check on me. One friend described the whole atmosphere as a Disney land experience. On another time, there was no-one else there so it was a very peaceful reflective stop on the journey

 

[markie6]

As with comedy, arrival at Cruz de fero ... timing is everything

 

[Richard Smith]

When we got there it was busy. We waited for a quiet time.
I placed a stone and felt significance.
I made two vows, one has been done. More to follow???

 

[Pathfinder075]

It is the first time that I read that people leave ashes, i.e. human remains there - or at least believe that this is done.

Saw someone doing this on my second Camino. Wondered what they were doing when they produced a metal urn (which must have been reasonably heavy) from their rucksack. Then proceeded to spread the contents on the rock pile. Then some prayers, sign of the cross and moved on. We exchanged nods.

Each to their own. Maybe that person had done many past caminos and had requested to be spread there.

 

[Old Kiwi]

I had read about the custom of carrying a stone from home to place at the cross and decided I would do so on my first Camino. I am not religious but do believe in positive thinking. What I had, was more of a dilemma than a problem. I had stayed at Foncebadon the night before and left there in the dark with my stone in my hand and gave deep thought to my dilemma on the way up to the cross. On arrival I placed my stone and then went over to the shelter and sat on a seat and talked to the Great Spirit for some time. I was overcome with emotion and cried for a few minutes. I then carried on and never gave any more thought to my dilemma. By the time I got back home to New Zealand I found that my dilemma had resolved itself and I was able to get on happily with my life.. Whether it had anything to do with the cross or if it was the Great Spirit taking pity on me, I do not know but I was very grateful. I do not know when this custom started but I get enjoyment out of following a ritual that has going on for a long time as it makes me feel grounded in doing something that people have been doing for years. Since then I have placed stones because it has now become my custom and I will continue to do so.

 

[pjacobi]

I read of one Peregrina that reported she was carrying 2Kg of rocks to the Crux. There's always someone that will over-do it!


-Paul

 

[C clearly]

I read of one Peregrina that reported she was carrying 2Kg of rocks to the Crux. There's always someone that will over-do it!

That seems like creating a problem/burden just for the sake of leaving it behind!