Crossing the Pyrenees from Oloron St. Marie, Bedous or Canfranc Estacion: Tips for Starting the Camino Aragones

[WanderlustingLawyer]

For anyone looking to walk the Camino Aragones, which meets up with the Camino Frances at Puente La Reina, I highly recommend starting in Oloron St. Marie or Bedous France and actually crossing the Pyrenees and entering Spain by at Somport. It's remote, stunning scenery, and the Pyrenees crossing is more challenging than the one at Roncesvalles. In this video, I provide detailed instructions for getting to Canfranc Estacion from Barcelona/Madrid, and then continuing on to Bedous and Oloron St. Marie.

 

[naplesdon]

Thanks, that is very nice video presentation. I did something similar a few years ago, I took the train from Biarritz to Pau and then connected to the train to Oloron. I got there early enough in the day to have and afternoon to explore both towns. The 12th c. cathedral has a very nice vibe about it. I also stayed at the monastery in Sarrance and was feted by the monks who live there.
I would caution anyone who chooses this route to have some Camino experience, it is definitely not one I would suggest for your first time out. I was there in the late spring and I was the only pilgrim on the route between Oloron and Eunate, except for a group of French cyclist I stayed with in Arres.
I regretted not going to San Juan de la Pena, but was fortunate enough to do that years later by car.
PS, you mentioned a dog attack, I had a similar situation with some Alsatians who were guarding their flock of sheep as I was walking along the abandoned train track out of Oloron, thank God I had my pole to repel them.

 

[WanderlustingLawyer]

Thanks for providing your insight! I too would not recommend this as a first Camino, especially for inexperienced hikers. I saw a few pilgrims, but not tons. I am so so so mad at myself for missing the experience in Sarrance - guess I have to get back! My poles also saved me from the dog - along with my screams, which finally brought the owner running.

 

[Paul Davidson]

For anyone looking to walk the Camino Aragones, which meets up with the Camino Frances at Puente La Reina, I highly recommend starting in Oloron St. Marie or Bedous France and actually crossing the Pyrenees and entering Spain by at Somport. It's remote, stunning scenery, and the Pyrenees crossing is more challenging than the one at Roncesvalles. In this video, I provide detailed instructions for getting to Canfranc Estacion from Barcelona/Madrid, and then continuing on to Bedous and Oloron St. Marie.

Must be one of the most beautiful starts to a Camino.

 

[Alan Pearce]

I flew from Paris to Pau, and started my Camino Aragoeese by walking from Pau to Lescar. The next day was a long walk to Oloron, followed by a shorter day the next day to Sarrance where I stayed in the monastery. The next day was a REALLY long walk from Sarrance to Somport I was so tired that night that I could not drink my share of a bottle of wine that we had with dinner.

Be brave. Life is joyous.

Alan

 

[Albertagirl]

I walked from Oloron Ste Marie to Puenta la Reina, then on to Santiago, in the fall of 2016, on my second camino walk. I flew from Calgary to CDG in Paris, bus to Orly, plane to Pau, bus into town then train to Oloron Ste Marie. I had some adventures along the way and met a few other pilgrims at various albergues, in particular, at the wonderful albergue at Arres. I visited San Juan de la Pena by bus from Jaca, and it continues to be my favourite site in all of my pilgrimages. I shall go back one day.

 

[Laurie Bryan Larson]

The new albergue in Canfranc village--4 km from Canfranc Estacion, is a wonderful place to stay! Honored to have served as a hospitalero there this past Oct.

 

[lbeckhusen]

Great news as I am scheduled to volunteer at the new Albergue in Canfranc mid-September! Afterwards I plan to bus to Oloron St Marie and start the Camino Aragones!

 

[Albertagirl]

Great news as I am scheduled to volunteer at the new Albergue in Canfranc mid-September! Afterwards I plan to bus to Oloron St Marie and start the Camino Aragones!

If you start at Oloron Ste Marie, you will be on the Camino d'Arles until you climb up to Somport Pass. That's fine, if that's how you want to do it.

 

[Old Hillwalker]

In Early September I flew from Boston into Paris and took the train onto Pau. Stayed in a wonderful Pilgrim supporting B&B in Pau. I then walked to LaCommande and stayed at the tiny 4 bed Hostel there. The next morning I walked to Oloron Ste Marie. Then the next day up the valley to Somport Pass and thence onto the Camino Aragon. Lovely trip until I got to the crowds in Puente la Reina.

Funny, but not so much, was that in France people wouldn't use English with me until they found out that I was a Yankee, then suddenly they discovered they could speak some English. Some grudges are buried not to deeply in this world.

 

[peregrino_tom]

I was so tired that night that I could not drink my share of a bottle of wine that we had with dinner.

This is veritably the definition of complete exhaustion

 

[el guapo 123]

For anyone looking to walk the Camino Aragones, which meets up with the Camino Frances at Puente La Reina, I highly recommend starting in Oloron St. Marie or Bedous France and actually crossing the Pyrenees and entering Spain by at Somport. It's remote, stunning scenery, and the Pyrenees crossing is more challenging than the one at Roncesvalles. In this video, I provide detailed instructions for getting to Canfranc Estacion from Barcelona/Madrid, and then continuing on to Bedous and Oloron St. Marie.

Found that really interesting and video presentation so much better. Agree about crossing the Pyrenees. Next June I plan to take the Valcarlos route which in 3 Caminos. I’ve never taken. Then bus to Pamplona and shared ride BlaBlaCar to Jaca. Bus to Canfranc Estacion and walk from there to Punta La Reina. Who knows I make Finisterre for the first time. Keep the videos coming.

 

[peregrino_tom]

Just chipping in as I'm totally in love with this part of the world and can't resist it..
Basically after leaving Oloron you are following the river Aspe up-stream. As you proceed, the mountains grow on either side, and then you are walking up and up the valley, eventually reaching Somport.
I'd just add that if you are fit, familiar with mountain hiking and walking July to mid-September and, have time to be adventurous, there's some amazing hiking to be had on either side of the valley. On the right side you can head up to the high plateau - type Cirque de Lescun into yr browser's image search. From there you can go up onto the ridge and follow GR11 and HRP to Somport, via the wonderful mountain refuge at Lac d'Arlet.
On the left side you can head off at Etsaut along the famous Chemin de la Mature, cut in to the rock face, on the GR10. This eventually takes you to the equally wonderful refuge at Ayous, from where it's less than 3 hrs easy walking across to Somport. Both routes go over 2000m which is why it's best to wait until July to be sure the snow has melted from the paths.

 

[Albertagirl]

My personal view of the relative difficulty in walking over the Pyrenees on the Frances and on the Aragones is different from that of the OP. I walked the Frances for my first camino, from SJPdP to Santiago, at the age of 67, over the Pyrenees with a night at Orisson. The next year I walked the Aragones from Oloron Ste Marie to Santiago, joining the Frances at Puenta la Reina. The OP's comment that the walk up to Somport was more difficult than that to Roncesvalles on the Napoleon does not agree with my experience. I walked from SJpdP to Orissson, then on the next day to Roncesvalles, and found the two days' walk strenuous and challenging, with a short, steep uphill walk on the first day and a longer day with a slippery downhill on the second. From Borce I walked over the col de Somport to the albergue just past the col, in one day, and found that day easier than either day on the Frances: not so steep uphill as the first, nor ending with a steep downhill before I arrived at my accommodation on the second day. My comment may well be a misunderstanding of the comparison, but I would not want pilgrims to avoid the Aragones on the grounds that the walk up to Somport was more difficult that the walk from SJPdP on the Napoleon to Roncesvalles.

 

[sharon w]

We restarted our Chemin d’Arles at Toulouse. Even though the walk wasn’t the best out of Toulouse, the rest of the Chemin was wonderful. We were the only ones in the Gite that night who had walked out of Toulouse. Many take the train to the edge of the city.
Toulouse is very easy to get to, transport wise.

 

[Flog]

My personal view of the relative difficulty in walking over the Pyrenees on the Frances and on the Aragones is different from that of the OP.

I would not want pilgrims to avoid the Aragones on the grounds that the walk up to Somport was more difficult that the walk from SJPdP on the Napoleon to Roncesvalles

Our mood, our energy, the other pilgrims we encounter, the weather etc..
We each experience and reflect on the same path differently, and each have our own opinion, but should yours be the definitive one?

 

[Former member 99290]

It’s not important … but I often read on forum posts and elsewhere that the Aragones joins the Frances in Puenta la Reina. I’ve walked the Aragones twice and the path joined the Frances in Obanos. Puenta la Reina is 2-3 kms further west. Unless I went the wrong way … twice! I only add this because if pilgrims are coming from the Aragones, they have the option to stay in Obanos or walk on to PlaR.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

It’s not important … but I often read on forum posts and elsewhere that the Aragones joins the Frances in Puenta la Reina. I’ve walked the Aragones twice and the path joined the Frances in Obanos.

From Santa María de Eunate there are two ways to go forward on the Francés. One goes to Obanos and the other to Puente la Reina via the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Arnotegui. There is a thread on this.

 

[Pilgrim9]

My personal view of the relative difficulty in walking over the Pyrenees on the Frances and on the Aragones is different from that of the OP. I walked the Frances for my first camino, from SJPdP to Santiago, at the age of 67, over the Pyrenees with a night at Orisson. The next year I walked the Aragones from Oloron Ste Marie to Santiago, joining the Frances at Puenta la Reina. The OP's comment that the walk up to Somport was more difficult than that to Roncesvalles on the Napoleon does not agree with my experience. I walked from SJpdP to Orissson, then on the next day to Roncesvalles, and found the two days' walk strenuous and challenging, with a short, steep uphill walk on the first day and a longer day with a slippery downhill on the second. From Borce I walked over the col de Somport to the albergue just past the col, in one day, and found that day easier than either day on the Frances: not so steep uphill as the first, nor ending with a steep downhill before I arrived at my accommodation on the second day. My comment may well be a misunderstanding of the comparison, but I would not want pilgrims to avoid the Aragones on the grounds that the walk up to Somport was more difficult that the walk from SJPdP on the Napoleon to Roncesvalles.

Thank you for your contribution to the dialogue, Albertagirl. I enjoy and try to learn from the interplay of various opinions and information sources, especially in this case as I am still researching the Aragones.

I had tentatively put this route aside as being too challenging but having now read your comments, I have re-instated it as a candidate for my next pilgrimage.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I love this route and am SO GLAD to hear about the new Albergue.
The place we stayed was the pits.

 

[Albertagirl]

Our mood, our energy, the other pilgrims we encounter, the weather etc..
We each experience and reflect on the same path differently, and each have our own opinion, but should yours be the definitive one?

I look forward to hearing your experiences and opinions on these and on other pilgrim routes which you have walked. This is how we can assist one another in deciding on and preparing our own walks.

 

[Flog]

I look forward to hearing your experiences and opinions on these and on other pilgrim routes which you have walked. This is how we can assist one another in deciding on and preparing our own walks.

Indeed.. I have walked both these routes, more than once.
And I do like to offer opinion and advice... when it's asked for.

 

[Former member 99290]

From Santa María de Eunate there are two ways to go forward on the Francés. One goes to Obanos and the other to Puente la Reina via the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Arnotegui. There is a thread on this.

Oh thank you. That explains it.

I’m just going to have to walk the Aragones again

 

[Flog]

The new albergue in Canfranc village--4 km from Canfranc Estacion, is a wonderful place to stay! Honored to have served as a hospitalero there this past Oct.

For me too Laurie.. and glutton for punishment that I am, I'll be back there again later this year!

 

[J Willhaus]

Great news as I am scheduled to volunteer at the new Albergue in Canfranc mid-September! Afterwards I plan to bus to Oloron St Marie and start the Camino Aragones!

Phil and I will be there July 16 to July 31 as hospitaleros voluntarios!

 

[WanderlustingLawyer]

Must be one of the most beautiful starts to a Camino.

It is truly a beautiful route.

 

[WanderlustingLawyer]

My personal view of the relative difficulty in walking over the Pyrenees on the Frances and on the Aragones is different from that of the OP. I walked the Frances for my first camino, from SJPdP to Santiago, at the age of 67, over the Pyrenees with a night at Orisson. The next year I walked the Aragones from Oloron Ste Marie to Santiago, joining the Frances at Puenta la Reina. The OP's comment that the walk up to Somport was more difficult than that to Roncesvalles on the Napoleon does not agree with my experience. I walked from SJpdP to Orissson, then on the next day to Roncesvalles, and found the two days' walk strenuous and challenging, with a short, steep uphill walk on the first day and a longer day with a slippery downhill on the second. From Borce I walked over the col de Somport to the albergue just past the col, in one day, and found that day easier than either day on the Frances: not so steep uphill as the first, nor ending with a steep downhill before I arrived at my accommodation on the second day. My comment may well be a misunderstanding of the comparison, but I would not want pilgrims to avoid the Aragones on the grounds that the walk up to Somport was more difficult that the walk from SJPdP on the Napoleon to Roncesvalles.

Thanks for the alternative perspective! My day did indeed end with steep downhill, but that's probably because I went all the way to Villanua; it was any extremely long day. I still believe this day would be very tough for new pilgrims, unless quite experienced in hiking, but I definitely don't want to discourage anyone from the challenge. Cheers!

 

[Katriina]

Thanks, that is very nice video presentation. I did something similar a few years ago, I took the train from Biarritz to Pau and then connected to the train to Oloron. I got there early enough in the day to have and afternoon to explore both towns. The 12th c. cathedral has a very nice vibe about it. I also stayed at the monastery in Sarrance and was feted by the monks who live there.
I would caution anyone who chooses this route to have some Camino experience, it is definitely not one I would suggest for your first time out. I was there in the late spring and I was the only pilgrim on the route between Oloron and Eunate, except for a group of French cyclist I stayed with in Arres.
I regretted not going to San Juan de la Pena, but was fortunate enough to do that years later by car.
PS, you mentioned a dog attack, I had a similar situation with some Alsatians who were guarding their flock of sheep as I was walking along the abandoned train track out of Oloron, thank God I had my pole to repel them.

My plan is to do Camino Aragones this year, july/august, and I am wondering where to start: Oloron or Somport. I have heard that the walk over Pyrenees is quite hard if you start in Oloron. I have done three Caminos so far,the fourth one will be Camino Primitivo in june, my second Primitivo. Is Camino Aragones harder and more difficult?

 

[WanderlustingLawyer]

My plan is to do Camino Aragones this year, july/august, and I am wondering where to start: Oloron or Somport. I have heard that the walk over Pyrenees is quite hard if you start in Oloron. I have done three Caminos so far,the fourth one will be Camino Primitivo in june, my second Primitivo. Is Camino Aragones harder and more difficult?

Hi! I haven't walked the Primitivo so I can't say for sure which is "harder." How much time do you have, and will you be walking alone or with a companion. The route from Oloron to Somport is absolutely stunning and I highly recommend it, especially if you can space it out more than I did. It's pretty solitary though, and personally, I wish I'd done it with someone else. Here is a video I made describing the hike over the Pyranees from France into Somport and onward. Let me know if you have any questions!

 

[J Willhaus]

My plan is to do Camino Aragones this year, july/august, and I am wondering where to start: Oloron or Somport. I have heard that the walk over Pyrenees is quite hard if you start in Oloron. I have done three Caminos so far,the fourth one will be Camino Primitivo in june, my second Primitivo. Is Camino Aragones harder and more difficult?

Maybe we will see you! Be sure to stop at Canfranc Pueblo at the albergue. If not to stay over, to get a drink, use the bathroom or say "hi". We'll be there July 15-31 as hospitaleros.

 

[Katriina]

Maybe we will see you! Be sure to stop at Canfranc Pueblo at the albergue. If not to stay over, to get a drink, use the bathroom or say "hi". We'll be there July 15-31 as hospitaleros.

Well, see you in July!

 

[Albertagirl]

I walked the Aragones as my second camino, in 2016, after walking the Frances the previous year. I was 68 at the time. There were some challenges in the Oloron Ste Marie to Somport section, mostly the result of a major storm which occurred the evening when I arrived. It put out the electricity and shut down everything. I already knew from tourist information that the Vallee d'Aspe was very wet. The walk up from Borce was no problem, certainly less steep than the walk to Orisson. I stayed at the albergue at the top. I would not want to have missed the walk up. Buen camino.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Is Camino Aragones harder and more difficult?

I found it quite easy for Santa Cilia on. That was the only part I walked though. I read many warnings about bringing food and water with you. I didn't find any problem with that but I walked in cooler and overcast conditions. If you decide to do a detour and walk to visit San Juan de la Peña (and you absolutely should do that somehow) things will be more difficult.

 

[Katriina]

Hi! I haven't walked the Primitivo so I can't say for sure which is "harder." How much time do you have, and will you be walking alone or with a companion. The route from Oloron to Somport is absolutely stunning and I highly recommend it, especially if you can space it out more than I did. It's pretty solitary though, and personally, I wish I'd done it with someone else. Here is a video I made describing the hike over the Pyranees from France into Somport and onward. Let me know if you have any questions!

I have plenty of time and I do want to walk all the way to Santiago. Primitivo is quite hard, very beautiful thougt, and absolutely my favourite so far. I am going to walk alone, as always.
I am going to see the video soon, thanks for that!

 

[Flog]

My plan is to do Camino Aragones this year, july/august, and I am wondering where to start: Oloron or Somport. I have heard that the walk over Pyrenees is quite hard if you start in Oloron. I have done three Caminos so far,the fourth one will be Camino Primitivo in june, my second Primitivo. Is Camino Aragones harder and more difficult?

You shouldn't find the Aragoñes difficult in comparison to the primitivo, but you will find far fewer pilgrims and fewer options for eating and sleeping. With three caminos behind you, I'm sure you'll more than manage it..

 

[Anna Cameron]

My personal view of the relative difficulty in walking over the Pyrenees on the Frances and on the Aragones is different from that of the OP. I walked the Frances for my first camino, from SJPdP to Santiago, at the age of 67, over the Pyrenees with a night at Orisson. The next year I walked the Aragones from Oloron Ste Marie to Santiago, joining the Frances at Puenta la Reina. The OP's comment that the walk up to Somport was more difficult than that to Roncesvalles on the Napoleon does not agree with my experience. I walked from SJpdP to Orissson, then on the next day to Roncesvalles, and found the two days' walk strenuous and challenging, with a short, steep uphill walk on the first day and a longer day with a slippery downhill on the second. From Borce I walked over the col de Somport to the albergue just past the col, in one day, and found that day easier than either day on the Frances: not so steep uphill as the first, nor ending with a steep downhill before I arrived at my accommodation on the second day. My comment may well be a misunderstanding of the comparison, but I would not want pilgrims to avoid the Aragones on the grounds that the walk up to Somport was more difficult that the walk from SJPdP on the Napoleon to Roncesvalles.

I am very glad to read this, Albertagirl, because I am nearly sure now that I will be walking the Chemin d'Arles in May, as my second Camino. If all goes to plan, I will celebrate my 69th birthday around the time I am approaching the Col de Somport- and it would be nice if it is less demanding than was the Route Napoleon over the Pyrenees. That was a hard slog for me!

 

[Former member 99290]

Thé Arles / Aragones is wonderful. Bon chemin and buen camino

 

[Anna Cameron]

Thé Arles / Aragones is wonderful. Bon chemin and buen camino

Merci and gracias - again! It's beginning to feel quite real now!

 

[Anna Cameron]

I walked the Aragones as my second camino, in 2016, after walking the Frances the previous year. I was 68 at the time. There were some challenges in the Oloron Ste Marie to Somport section, mostly the result of a major storm which occurred the evening when I arrived. It put out the electricity and shut down everything. I already knew from tourist information that the Vallee d'Aspe was very wet. The walk up from Borce was no problem, certainly less steep than the walk to Orisson. I stayed at the albergue at the top. I would not want to have missed the walk up. Buen camino.

By the way, is there any list of accommodations for this portion of the Chemin d'Arles and Aragones, similar to the list given at Pilgrim Office in St Jean PdP for CF? I ask because of your mention of "the albergue at the top" at Somport? I am aware of MiamMiam Dodo but wondering if there is a basic list of auberges/albergues?

 

[dick bird]

For those who like to watch videos, this is the Chemin D'Arles from Toulouse. The GR route is easy to follow, the people were kind (and those that could spoke English unprompted). Highly recommended.

 

[naplesdon]

I found it quite easy for Santa Cilia on. That was the only part I walked though. I read many warnings about bringing food and water with you. I didn't find any problem with that but I walked in cooler and overcast conditions. If you decide to do a detour and walk to visit San Juan de la Peña (and you absolutely should do that somehow) things will be more difficult.

I didn't think about bringing lots of cash with me after Jaca. There were no ATM's so I had to abort about halfway and take a bus to Pamplona

 

[dick bird]

By the way, is there any list of accommodations for this portion of the Chemin d'Arles and Aragones, similar to the list given at Pilgrim Office in St Jean PdP for CF? I ask because of your mention of "the albergue at the top" at Somport? I am aware of MiamMiam Dodo but wondering if there is a basic list of auberges/albergues?

There is a very helpful pilgrim office in Toulouse, if that is where you start from. They provided us with just such a list. Or you can write to them, they would probably email the list.

 

[naplesdon]

For those who like to watch videos, this is the Chemin D'Arles from Toulouse. The GR route is easy to follow, the people were kind (and those that could spoke English unprompted). Highly recommended.

Dick,
Fabulous video. I walked Le Puy to Toulouse then jumped on a bus to Burgos to finish the Camino in 2019. I did Oloron Ste. Marie to Santiago a few years earlier and your photos give me goose flesh. Thanks!

 

[Anna Cameron]

There is a very helpful pilgrim office in Toulouse, if that is where you start from. They provided us with just such a list. Or you can write to them, they would probably email the list.

Merci bien! I think I'm decided now!

 

[Former member 99290]

Hi Anna. Gronze is usually a good starting point At the end of Arles, it continues with Aragones.

Arles - Saint-Gilles (Gard) | Camino de Arles | Gronze.com

A priori el comienzo no puede ser más facilón: distancia corta, perfil plano,… aunque todo puede truncarse si aprieta el sol o ruge, como en la canción del Último de la Fila, el Mistral. De oca en oca, de la iglesia de Saint-Trophime de Arles alcanzaremos la también románica abadía de...

www.gronze.com

 

[Albertagirl]

The Confraternity of Saint James publishes an English guideboook to the Chemin d'Arles. I purchased a copy of the second section: ii Toulouse to Puente la Reina to help me along the way. It is currently listed on their website. As a guidebook, it was not updated very frequently, but rather pilgrims who passed through reported changes. These reports were inserted in copies of the guide when I bought mine.

 

[Anna Cameron]

Hi Anna. Gronze is usually a good starting point At the end of Arles, it continues with Aragones.

Arles - Saint-Gilles (Gard) | Camino de Arles | Gronze.com

A priori el comienzo no puede ser más facilón: distancia corta, perfil plano,… aunque todo puede truncarse si aprieta el sol o ruge, como en la canción del Último de la Fila, el Mistral. De oca en oca, de la iglesia de Saint-Trophime de Arles alcanzaremos la también románica abadía de...

www.gronze.com

Thank you! I will check out Gronze. Getting close for you two, now, isn't it?

 

[Former member 99290]

Thank you! I will check out Gronze. Getting close for you two, now, isn't it?

Yes, we fly from Sydney on 21 March for two months away. In between visiting family and friends we plan to walk the Chemin du Piemont and later Camino Baztan.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I didn't think about bringing lots of cash with me after Jaca. There were no ATM's so I had to abort about halfway and take a bus to Pamplona

Come to think about it I don't remember using an ATM on the Aragonese. I had some euros in my pocket in Huesca and I used an ATM there. I must have taken out 300€, my usual. It was four days to the Aragonese and then five days to Puente la Reina.

I just now tried ATM in Sangüesa in Google Maps and it showed a few locations.

 

[naplesdon]

Come to think about it I don't remember using an ATM on the Aragonese. I had some euros in my pocket in Huesca and I used an ATM there. I must have taken out 300€, my usual. It was four days to the Aragonese and then five days to Puente la Reina.

I just now tried ATM in Sangüesa in Google Maps and it showed a few locations.

I believe you are correct but I ran out of cash 2 stages before there. I could have bailed out of the bus but I had already paid the full fare to Pamplona; and yes, as we passed through Sanguesa I say a bank. My bad!

 

[Vacajoe]

It’s a good point to note that many of the things that pilgrims simply accept as fact on the CF or CP are not easily available on the CA: banks, ATMs, water, bathrooms, morning cafe, lunch, private rooms, etc. While you will find all of these in Canfranc, Jaca, and Sanguesa, you need to plan accordingly for the smaller villages you’ll be passing through. Some simply host an albergue and food, while others have zero commercial establishments.

 

[Albertagirl]

When I walked the Aragones, the bigges problem was water. In a couple of places there was a water fixture along the camino route which had recently been attached to a hose or pipe which went away from the camino and offered no access to pilgrims. Both were clearly originally designed as pilgrim fountains. I supposed that the major changes which the construction of the Yesa reservoir in the valley had brought about had made this change necessary to supply local residents with water. In my opinion, it is necessary for pilgrims to carry lots of water and to fill up whenever safe water is available.

 

[Linda Fantillo]

I am very glad to read this, Albertagirl, because I am nearly sure now that I will be walking the Chemin d'Arles in May, as my second Camino. If all goes to plan, I will celebrate my 69th birthday around the time I am approaching the Col de Somport- and it would be nice if it is less demanding than was the Route Napoleon over the Pyrenees. That was a hard slog for me!

Hi Anna, I will be doing this route also. Plan to start walking from Oloron St. Marie on the 18th of May. I am 71 and have a few Caminos behind me. When are you planning for?

 

[Anna Cameron]

Hi Anna, I will be doing this route also. Plan to start walking from Oloron St. Marie on the 18th of May. I am 71 and have a few Caminos behind me. When are you planning for?

Hi Linda, it's great to hear about your plans, too. I am a bit unsure about exact dates because of a special family event in Toulon at beginning of May, and even a little undecided about the starting point (Arles vs points further along the route...?) But, your query is a good stimulus- I need to decide this soon. I'm waiting for delivery of the MMDD guide to help clarify my planning. If you know this route already, that would help, too - do you want to keep in touch via pm on this Forum?

 

[JabbaPapa]

The OP's comment that the walk up to Somport was more difficult than that to Roncesvalles on the Napoleon does not agree with my experience.

In pure hiking terms, I'd agree -- getting over the pass itself is pretty simple, and it's a rather shorter hike from the bottom of it to the other side than SJPP > Roncesvalles.

What I did find more difficult was the monotony of much of the walk to reach the pass, enclosed as you are in such a narrow passage between claustrophobic mountain barriers on either side. (Of course, there are some wonderful places along the Way.)

Otherwise, for the Somport, I'd advise a start from Lourdes rather than from Oloron.

If you start at Oloron Ste Marie, you will be on the Camino d'Arles until you climb up to Somport Pass. That's fine, if that's how you want to do it.

IIRC the French GR waymarking ends, and the Spanish begins (yellow arrows !!) somewhat before the pass itself. And hmmmm, Oloron-Sainte-Marie > Puente la Reina has "official" names and so on, but technically it's still a variant route of the French Way. Spanish Camino maps in the 1990s showed the Ways to Santiago via both Roncesvalles and the Somport as the "Camino Francés".

Somewhat similarly, the stretch between Zaragoza and Logroño is simultaneously part of the Camí Catalàn, the Via del Ebro, the Camino Ignaciano, and of course, both the Camino de Santiago and the Via Romea -- and which of those it is for an individual pilgrim depends mostly on that pilgrim's own intents and purposes.

It’s not important … but I often read on forum posts and elsewhere that the Aragones joins the Frances in Puenta la Reina. I’ve walked the Aragones twice and the path joined the Frances in Obanos. Puenta la Reina is 2-3 kms further west. Unless I went the wrong way … twice! I only add this because if pilgrims are coming from the Aragones, they have the option to stay in Obanos or walk on to PlaR.

There are two options for joining the Francès -- the most obvious one takes you to Obanos, but a variant does take you straight to Puente.

I didn't think about bringing lots of cash with me after Jaca. There were no ATM's so I had to abort about halfway and take a bus to Pamplona

There's bound to be one in Sangüesa -- and IIRC a few of the Albergues & restaurants etc. on the Way accept cards. (? Not really certain, as I was rather penniless on those days) But yeah, definitely carry a bit more food & cash than usual !!

 

[Flog]

For anyone looking to walk the Camino Aragones, which meets up with the Camino Frances at Puente La Reina, I highly recommend starting in Oloron St. Marie or Bedous France.

I'm looking back over these Aragoñes threads in anticipation of my next one! I've already walked the Aragoñes twice before from Somport.

This time, I'm hoping to walk the few days from Oloron St. Marie up and over the pass to take up my next hospi stint in Canfranc in mid October. I want to do as you have, take the bus from Canfranc Estacion to Bedous and the train from there to Oloron to begin walking. I have the train schedules but I can't find a schedule online for the bus? Is it a daily service? I should have paid more attention last time I was up in Canfranc Estacion!!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I want to do as you have, take the bus from Canfranc Estacion to Bedous and the train from there to Oloron to begin walking.

You can't get to Bedous from Canfranc without a 40km drive from Astun to Bedous according to rome2rio.

Canfranc to Oloron-Sainte-Marie - 2 ways to travel via train, and car

The cheapest way to get from Canfranc to Oloron-Sainte-Marie costs only $9, and the quickest way takes just 57 mins. Find the travel option that best suits you.

www.rome2rio.com

 

[Flog]

Yes, I see that too, thanks..
But in her video, @WanderlustingLawyer makes a clear reference to taking a bus from Estacion to Bedous. I'm sure I could get a taxi but would only do as a last resort...

 

[lbeckhusen]

I will be volunteer Hospitalero in Canfranc beginning September 15 after which I also plan to travel to Oloron St Marie and walk to Puente La Reina

 

[Flog]

I will be volunteer Hospitalero in Canfranc beginning September 15 after which I also plan to travel to Oloron St Marie and walk

Ah, looks like you will be about 10 days ahead of me! My plan is to head to Oloron around the 10th..

 

[lbeckhusen]

Ah, looks like you will be about 10 days ahead of me! My plan is to head to Oloron around the 10th..

I’m not sure how I will get from con Frank to Orion Saint Marie but I’m pretty sure the locals will tell me when I’m there

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Try https://transports.nouvelle-aquitaine.fr/

I found this on a webpage that linked to a couple of its pdf schedules for Somport-Canfranc-Bedous-Oloron but the end dates for the schedules were June 4 and July 1. In French. Here is that webpage:

Horaires Bedous - Canfranc - Citram Pyrénées

Attention TRAVAUX OCTOBRE / NOVEMBRE 2022 Fiche horaires dimanche 23 octobre 2022 : cliquez ici Fiche horaires du 24/10 au 10/11/2022 : cliquez ici A partir du 25/09/2022, la ligne Bedous-Canfranc devient la ligne 550 (nouveau numéro). Horaires ligne 550 : cliquez ici Merci de faire signe au...

www.citrampyrenees.fr

 

[Scott Sweeney]

For anyone looking to walk the Camino Aragones, which meets up with the Camino Frances at Puente La Reina, I highly recommend starting in Oloron St. Marie or Bedous France and actually crossing the Pyrenees and entering Spain by at Somport. It's remote, stunning scenery, and the Pyrenees crossing is more challenging than the one at Roncesvalles. In this video, I provide detailed instructions for getting to Canfranc Estacion from Barcelona/Madrid, and then continuing on to Bedous and Oloron St. Marie.

We started our Camino Argones from Paris to Aix-en-Provence, and then on to Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume ( Sanctuary of Mary Magdalene and not a official start to the Argones. ) and walked to Oloron, Lescar and then over the mountains to Jaca. We did spend a night at ConFrance Estacion and did get to see the light show at the train station. We did get to San Juan de la Pena by bus and walked back to Jaca. We got to Saint Mary of Eunate the last day of that season. When we met up with the CF we walked back to SJPP. It was this route that told me I couldn't cross the Pyrenees two times in one Camino. By far one of our favorite Caminos.

Sounds like you had a good time.

 

[Flog]

Try https://transports.nouvelle-aquitaine.fr/

I found this on a webpage that linked to a couple of its pdf schedules for Somport-Canfranc-Bedous-Oloron but the end dates for the schedules were June 4 and July 1. In French. Here is that webpage:

Horaires Bedous - Canfranc - Citram Pyrénées

Attention TRAVAUX OCTOBRE / NOVEMBRE 2022 Fiche horaires dimanche 23 octobre 2022 : cliquez ici Fiche horaires du 24/10 au 10/11/2022 : cliquez ici A partir du 25/09/2022, la ligne Bedous-Canfranc devient la ligne 550 (nouveau numéro). Horaires ligne 550 : cliquez ici Merci de faire signe au...

www.citrampyrenees.fr

That's really helpful thanks, I couldn't find that! Even if the schedule is reduced later in the year, there clearly are buses between the two towns! Leaving from Zaragoza early morning, I should be able to get to Oloron by the late afternoon, one less thing to worry about!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

That's really helpful thanks, I couldn't find that! Even if the schedule is reduced later in the year, there clearly are buses between the two towns!

I was headed to this thread anyway, before seeing your post, to add that possibly the service is only provided during ski season and Wanderlust had the luck to be be in the area during that time. Perhaps you should contact
https://transports.nouvelle-aquitaine.fr/ so you will have the opportunity to seek other transportation if that is the case.

 

[Flog]

Yes, now that I have the website, perhaps I can find a French speaker to look into it for me! I'm confident I'll figure something, thanks again!

 

[Vacajoe]

Hey Flog! (And Laurin!). There was definitely a bus running from Estacion to Oloron in November 2021 (pre-ski season). We found that the tourist office in Estacion had all the answers to all the questions and one person even spoke English! Their #: +34 974 37 31 41


EDIT: I should add that I was told the bus route is designed to replace the non functioning sections of the Canfranc-Pau train route. So it leaves Canfranc and will stop in Bedous IF the train is running to there, otherwise it will terminate in Oloron.

 

[Flog]

Either option good to know! Thanks!!
Yeah, I remember they were very helpful at the tourist place!

 

[Linda Fantillo]

I recently walked from Oloron St.Marie to Canfrac Stn. And then on to the Aragones. Write if you have any questions.

 

[Flog]

I recently walked from Oloron St.Marie to Canfrac Stn. And then on to the Aragones. Write if you have any questions.

Thank you!

 

[lbeckhusen]

Hey Flog! (And Laurin!). There was definitely a bus running from Estacion to Oloron in November 2021 (pre-ski season). We found that the tourist office in Estacion had all the answers to all the questions and one person even spoke English! Their #: +34 974 37 31 41


EDIT: I should add that I was told the bus route is designed to replace the non functioning sections of the Canfranc-Pau train route. So it leaves Canfranc and will stop in Bedous IF the train is running to there, otherwise it will terminate in Oloron.

Thanks as always Vacajoe

 

[Patrick Holmes]

The new albergue in Canfranc village--4 km from Canfranc Estacion, is a wonderful place to stay! Honored to have served as a hospitalero there this past Oct.

hi..the new albergue in Canfrance village..is it the private or public one you recommend...hope to do Aragones camino route next year..thanks

 

[J Willhaus]

hi..the new albergue in Canfrance village..is it the private or public one you recommend...hope to do Aragones camino route next year..thanks

The new albergue is a municipal. There is also a private albergue in the community.

 

[WalkingInGers]

Any thoughts about walking from Oloron Sainte Marie through the Somport in mid April?

 

[Vacajoe]

There’s another thread discussing this presently (see the one about hiking the Pyrenees), but in short, you will most likely have to contend with snow at the Somport Pass, both covering the trail and possibly as a storm. Hard to forecast anymore than that until the actual day you’d be crossing, but it’s a higher elevation than the Napoleon Route on the CF and routinely closes during storms.

However, there is daily bus service across the border there (when it’s not closed due to snow), so you’ll have options. Plus it may be an early Spring or a light snow year. All you can really do is have alternative plans in place for traversing the Pass.

 

[WalkingInGers]

That is exactly what I was thinking…starting out in southwest France, near Toulouse and go well..southwest…and the worse of worse, to hike from Oloron Ste Marie to Saint Jean and from there to Roncevalles.

 

[Vacajoe]

Always good to have a Plan B!

 

[WalkingInGers]

Always good to have a Plan B!

I forgot to thank you for your message.

 

[AnneMarie1]

It’s not important … but I often read on forum posts and elsewhere that the Aragones joins the Frances in Puenta la Reina. I’ve walked the Aragones twice and the path joined the Frances in Obanos. Puenta la Reina is 2-3 kms further west. Unless I went the wrong way … twice! I only add this because if pilgrims are coming from the Aragones, they have the option to stay in Obanos or walk on to PlaR.

Somehow the French route became synonymous with the route that goes through Roncesvalles, but when I was looking into the Camino the first time, over 2 decades ago, all the guidebooks, etc. said there are two passes over the Pyrenees -- two forks of this route, which join that Puente la Reina. But the Aragonese route is just as French as the one that leads through Roncesvalles. They both come from France, after all. In the Middle Ages, the Somport pass had more pilgrim traffic than the other one.

 

[Vacajoe]

Absolutely! In recognition of that, they are “rebranding” the Camino Aragonés as the “Camino Frances through Aragon” to inform pilgrims that it stretches from France to SdC just like the one from SJPdP. What IS different is that this route has open beds and uncrowded trails unlike the other Camino Frances.

 

[Former member 104756]

It is a wonderful path of itself but, for us, made more so due to the relative solitude. Few pilgrims but enough for welcome encounters during the day and camaraderie in the evenings. The Aragones Way deserves more patronage. But, don’t all come at once

 

[Vacajoe]

The Aragones Way

Don’t you mean the Camino Frances de Aragon? . I understand the renaming, but it will be hard to get used to using the new title

 

[Former member 104756]

Don’t you mean the Camino Frances de Aragon? . I understand the renaming, but it will be hard to get used to using the new title

Noted. Though we walked from Arles to join the Frances so I sometimes call it the Arles Way. And when we started in Canfranc, we called it thé Camino Aragones or Aragones Way. A rose by any other name …

 

[WalkingInGers]

I am starting out on the Arles way this morning..and I am excited. Weather is extremely cloudy and 6C, much nicer during the week..at least no need to use rain trousers today.

 

[Former member 104756]

I am starting out on the Arles way this morning..and I am excited. Weather is extremely cloudy and 6C, much nicer during the week..at least no need to use rain trousers today.

Bon chemin!

 

[Vacajoe]

It seems that the snow has passed and now it’s just very cold! Stay warm and I hope you stop by Pueblo for a warm drink or perhaps even an overnight stay.

 

[Anna Cameron]

I am starting out on the Arles way this morning..and I am excited. Weather is extremely cloudy and 6C, much nicer during the week..at least no need to use rain trousers today.

Bon Chemin! I started walking from Arles in May 2022 but the unprecedented heat wave stopped me earlier than planned. Rain and snow were certainly NOT my problem last year! But I hope to resume next year, starting closer to the crossing at Somport and continuing on to the Aragonès.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

In recognition of that, they are “rebranding” the Camino Aragonés as the “Camino Frances through Aragon” to inform pilgrims that it stretches from France to SdC just like the one from SJPdP.

Gronze has rebranded already as seen here where you can choose between two French Ways:

Camino Francés | Gronze.com

El Camino Francés es el Camino de Santiago en el que confluyen la mayoría de las vías medievales de peregrinación europeas, siendo por tanto el camino de mayor relevancia histórica y el más seguido por los peregrinos. Su punto de inicio, hoy en día, tanto puede considerarse Roncesvalles como...

www.gronze.com

 

[WalkingInGers]

I had my first feel of what it is on a Camino today. I left L’Isle Jourdain after having had my credential stamped at the Tourist Office located near the lake there. As I was leaving the office, two chaps showed up asking for stamps on their credentials as well. In Montferran-Saves, met 8 pilgrims who were pleasantly eating and they asked me to join them. I suspect that I will meet these happy people tomorrow on the new leg from Gimont to Montegut (outside Auch). I am extremely glad to have trained for the hiking although it was not enough. 24 KM and I am out. It was a hard day and a bit discouraging especially with the heavy backpack And the MUD.

 

[Vacajoe]

Slow down. Walk shorter distances. Empty out a bit from the pack. The world programs us to push harder, faster, farther. The Camino whispers to us to…just…slow…down. The Camino has been here for a thousand years. It’ll be there tomorrow and the next day and the next day. If you push too hard, you can injure yourself and then the Camino will be there, but you won’t be.

 

[NewlifeDn]

I flew from Paris to Pau, and started my Camino Aragoeese by walking from Pau to Lescar. The next day was a long walk to Oloron, followed by a shorter day the next day to Sarrance where I stayed in the monastery. The next day was a REALLY long walk from Sarrance to Somport I was so tired that night that I could not drink my share of a bottle of wine that we had with dinner.

Be brave. Life is joyous.

Alan

Alan, thanks for the insight; I plan pretty much the same thing this year 2023, although not sure about that last slog to Somport I myself learn from the first camino in 2016 (Lausanne - Le Puy - Camino Frances) that if I push too hard I suffer…tendonitis, twice! So my plan is then to walk the camino Aragones, followed by the camino Baztanes up to Bayonne (so zigzagging out and then back into France) and then the camino del Norte, from the french side via St. Jean-de-Luz, and slowly at my pace with a relatively small rucksack but wishing those who wish to walk faster…Buen Camino! Bon chemin!

David

 

[RachelNZ]

My personal view of the relative difficulty in walking over the Pyrenees on the Frances and on the Aragones is different from that of the OP. I walked the Frances for my first camino, from SJPdP to Santiago, at the age of 67, over the Pyrenees with a night at Orisson. The next year I walked the Aragones from Oloron Ste Marie to Santiago, joining the Frances at Puenta la Reina. The OP's comment that the walk up to Somport was more difficult than that to Roncesvalles on the Napoleon does not agree with my experience. I walked from SJpdP to Orissson, then on the next day to Roncesvalles, and found the two days' walk strenuous and challenging, with a short, steep uphill walk on the first day and a longer day with a slippery downhill on the second. From Borce I walked over the col de Somport to the albergue just past the col, in one day, and found that day easier than either day on the Frances: not so steep uphill as the first, nor ending with a steep downhill before I arrived at my accommodation on the second day. My comment may well be a misunderstanding of the comparison, but I would not want pilgrims to avoid the Aragones on the grounds that the walk up to Somport was more difficult that the walk from SJPdP on the Napoleon to Roncesvalles.

Hi Alberta girl! I also was hesitant after hearing the OP's impressions of the pass route as harder than the first day of The Frances route. I also, like you, stopped at Orrisson for the night and then walked to Roncesvalles the next day. I found it challenging but doable. I am considering the Aragon way and starting at Oloron and over the Somport pass for my next Camino. Meeting up with the french way again in Puente La Reina. Please tell me, what albergue did you stay in on your first night over the Somport? How long was your walk from Orolon? and what town was this first stop at? Many thanks! Rachel

 

[J Willhaus]

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/stage-1-somport-to-canfranc-pueblo-12km.79723/

Here is the description of the first stage after you cross the border.

 

[Albertagirl]

Hi Alberta girl! I also was hesitant after hearing the OP's impressions of the pass route as harder than the first day of The Frances route. I also, like you, stopped at Orrisson for the night and then walked to Roncesvalles the next day. I found it challenging but doable. I am considering the Aragon way and starting at Oloron and over the Somport pass for my next Camino. Meeting up with the french way again in Puente La Reina. Please tell me, what albergue did you stay in on your first night over the Somport? How long was your walk from Orolon? and what town was this first stop at? Many thanks! Rachel

Rachel
I shall let other more complete replies respond to your questions. I am in Spain right now and am finding it challenging to reply using the app and with no reference material for the Aragones. Buen camino, whatever you decide.

 

[Vacajoe]

From Oloron to Somport, you are on the last section of the Camino Arles. There are three recommended stages;

Oloron - Sarrance (21km)
Sarrance - Borce (23km)
Borce - Somport (17km)

You are headed up a valley this entire time, so those distances are tougher than they look. After Somport, I recommend the following stages (all headed downhill to Jaca):

Somport - Canfranc Pueblo
CP - Jaca
Jaca - Santa Cilia
SC - Arres
Arres - Ruesta
Ruesta - Sanguesa
Sanguesa - Lumbier
Lumbier - Monreal
Monreal - Tiebas
Tiebas - Puente la Reina

Consult Gronze.com for up-to-date albergue openings and stage distances.

 

[RachelNZ]

From Oloron to Somport, you are on the last section of the Camino Arles. There are three recommended stages;

Oloron - Sarrance (21km)
Sarrance - Borce (23km)
Borce - Somport (17km)

You are headed up a valley this entire time, so those distances are tougher than they look. After Somport, I recommend the following stages (all headed downhill to Jaca):

Somport - Canfranc Pueblo
CP - Jaca
Jaca - Santa Cilia
SC - Arres
Arres - Ruesta
Ruesta - Sanguesa
Sanguesa - Lumbier
Lumbier - Monreal
Monreal - Tiebas
Tiebas - Puente la Reina

Consult Gronze.com for up-to-date albergue openings and stage distances.

This is great thanks!

 

[UnniElisabeth]

I walked the Aragones as my second camino, in 2016, after walking the Frances the previous year. I was 68 at the time. There were some challenges in the Oloron Ste Marie to Somport section, mostly the result of a major storm which occurred the evening when I arrived. It put out the electricity and shut down everything. I already knew from tourist information that the Vallee d'Aspe was very wet. The walk up from Borce was no problem, certainly less steep than the walk to Orisson. I stayed at the albergue at the top. I would not want to have missed the walk up. Buen camino.

Thank you for the post, I'm also in my sixties and have not yet decided where to start on the Camino Aragones . The climp up to Somport from Bronce is my worry. I have walked the CF twice and both times stoped at Orisson.

 

[Vacajoe]

It can be muddy and tiring. Hard to say what works for you exactly, but all types of pilgrims do it. If you take your time and spend all day walking slowly, it likely isn’t a problem.

 

[Flog]

The climp up to Somport from Bronce is my worry. I have walked the CF twice and both times stoped at Orisson.

If you can start out a few km further uphill at Urdos instead of Borce, you will have an easier day of it. It's a slow steady climb if it's dry, but can be treacherous in a few places if it's been raining, so take your time. If you make it up to Somport by around 3pm and are tired/cold/wet, you could always catch the bus down into Canfranc and then take the early bus back up to the pass in the morning to continue where you left off. So there are a few options..

 

[UnniElisabeth]

It can be muddy and tiring. Hard to say what works for you exactly, but all types of pilgrims do it. If you take your time and spend all day walking slowly, it likely isn’t a problem.

Thank you, I plan to start i Oloron Sainte-Marie, and would very much like to walk up the Pyrenees.