LIVE from the Camino Counting pilgrims on the Via Augusta (Nov. 2024)

[Umwandert]

I have to admit, the title is probably a little too optimistic. It is highly unlikely to meet any pilgrims at all in Andalusia in December. On my last three winter caminos in Andalusia (Via Serrana, Camino Estrecho, Camino de Fray Leopoldo) I came across a grand total of one (!) pilgrim. I will probably rather count cows, dogs or telegraph poles.

I have two non-contiguous weeks available for Caminos in November/December and am dedicating myself first to the Via Augusta, which I have also had my eye on in previous years. I expect long flat stretches without the slightest incline, a rather monotonous landscape, but interesting places and towns. As far as I know, there are no albergues, so I have booked hotels and private accommodation.

I start on Monday from Seville heading south. I'm walking this route in reverse because I'd like to have the stage along the Atlantic as the highlight at the end. As I'm totally out of shape, I've opted for a particularly lazy option. I will hike three of the six stages with a day pack and take the train to my accommodation in Seville or Jerez in the evening.

I am happy to post my experiences here and look forward to suggestions and information from the forum experts. After all, the Via Augusta has a sub-forum here and appears more frequently in the comments than my first three Andalusian Caminos.

 

[WalkingInGers]

I have to admit, the title is probably a little too optimistic. It is highly unlikely to meet any pilgrims at all in Andalusia in December. On my last three winter caminos in Andalusia (Via Serrana, Camino Estrecho, Camino de Fray Leopoldo) I came across a grand total of one (!) pilgrim. I will probably rather count cows, dogs or telegraph poles.

I have two non-contiguous weeks available for Caminos in November/December and am dedicating myself first to the Via Augusta, which I have also had my eye on in previous years. I expect long flat stretches without the slightest incline, a rather monotonous landscape, but interesting places and towns. As far as I know, there are no albergues, so I have booked hotels and private accommodation.

I start on Monday from Seville heading south. I'm walking this route in reverse because I'd like to have the stage along the Atlantic as the highlight at the end. As I'm totally out of shape, I've opted for a particularly lazy option. I will hike three of the six stages with a day pack and take the train to my accommodation in Seville or Jerez in the evening.

I am happy to post my experiences here and look forward to suggestions and information from the forum experts. After all, the Via Augusta has a sub-forum here and appears more frequently in the comments than my first three Andalusian Caminos.

I look forward to reading your posts as I will be starting the ESTRECHO in March and starting out on the AUGUSTA in April 2025

 

[Blister Bill]

Walked it in early Apr 22. No other pilgrims, not even a boot print ! Not hilly, I found it well marked except in the towns. The loop out of (into) Cadiz was not particularly exciting. The views (for you) coming down into Santa Maria are great. An option could be to grab the boat from there to Cadiz.

 

[Peter Brandon]

I will be following your posts with interest as my wife and I intend to walk from Cadiz to CDS, beginning in September next year, I noted that the first sections as far as Jerez de la Frontera can be accessed by train so we intend to stay in Cadiz and walk these sections for the first few days returning to our hostel each evening. The section that concerns me is from Los Cabezas to Utrera which is about 34 km. I am hoping to break it up using a bus (or taxi) if possible, and treturning to where we fish the following morning. Cheers and Buen Camino, Peter

 

[Paul-CH]

The section that concerns me is from Los Cabezas to Utrera which is about 34 km

In 2025 you have still time enough to get some training as this part has only about 260 m of incline/decline. in 2023 I walked from Cadiz to Sevilla in seven days. 29.0km 29k.6m 29.2km 29.9km 32.5km 25.0km 17.5km

 

[Joseph Carmona]

I have to admit, the title is probably a little too optimistic. It is highly unlikely to meet any pilgrims at all in Andalusia in December. On my last three winter caminos in Andalusia (Via Serrana, Camino Estrecho, Camino de Fray Leopoldo) I came across a grand total of one (!) pilgrim. I will probably rather count cows, dogs or telegraph poles.

I have two non-contiguous weeks available for Caminos in November/December and am dedicating myself first to the Via Augusta, which I have also had my eye on in previous years. I expect long flat stretches without the slightest incline, a rather monotonous landscape, but interesting places and towns. As far as I know, there are no albergues, so I have booked hotels and private accommodation.

I start on Monday from Seville heading south. I'm walking this route in reverse because I'd like to have the stage along the Atlantic as the highlight at the end. As I'm totally out of shape, I've opted for a particularly lazy option. I will hike three of the six stages with a day pack and take the train to my accommodation in Seville or Jerez in the evening.

I am happy to post my experiences here and look forward to suggestions and information from the forum experts. After all, the Via Augusta has a sub-forum here and appears more frequently in the comments than my first three Andalusian Caminos.

Will be happy to hear your experiences, I am planning on walking from Tarifa next year & was thinking the Camino Estrecho then the Camino Augusta to Sevilla or the Estrecho to Algeciras then the Via Serrana to Sevilla, how did you find the Via Serrana?

 

[Joseph Carmona]

I look forward to reading your posts as I will be starting the ESTRECHO in March and starting out on the AUGUSTA in April 2025

I will be starting the Estrecho from Tarifa in March weighing up whether to head west or go north on the Via Serrana from La Linea near Gibraltar

 

[Umwandert]

Thanks for the messages. I am happy to reply.

The loop out of (into) Cadiz was not particularly exciting. The views (for you) coming down into Santa Maria are great. An option could be to grab the boat from there to Cadiz.

@Blister Bill: That's pity. I was really looking forward to that.

I noted that the first sections as far as Jerez de la Frontera can be accessed by train so we intend to stay in Cadiz and walk these sections for the first few days returning to our hostel each evening. The section that concerns me is from Los Cabezas to Utrera which is about 34 km. I am hoping to break it up using a bus (or taxi) if possible, and treturning to where we fish the following morning.

@Peter Brandon: I plan to use the train for this part of the camino (my last two days) as well. I will stay in Jerez and commute back from Puerto Real and Cadiz. I will walk Utrera-Las Cabezas tomorrow and look for possible places where you can take public transport.

Will be happy to hear your experiences, I am planning on walking from Tarifa next year & was thinking the Camino Estrecho then the Camino Augusta to Sevilla or the Estrecho to Algeciras then the Via Serrana to Sevilla, how did you find the Via Serrana?

@Joseph Carmona: I loved the Via Serrana, although it was a very challenging camino, mostly due to bad weather. I wrote about it in great detail here.

 

[Umwandert]

Day 1: Sevilla - Utrera (normally 35 km, shortened to 26 km by me)



Aller Anfang ist schwer (All beginnings are hard), as we say. At around 9am I'm at the cathedral, which is still closed, and get a stamp from the nearby tourist information centre. Then I make my way to the metro. There are two alternatives for this stage, either via Alcala de Guadaira (officially 36 kilometres) or via Dos Hermanas (35 kilometres). Both are too long for me for a first stage, especially as I'm out of shape. This stage is also the final stage of the Via Serrana, which I walked two years ago (via Alcala). At 41 kilometres, it was my longest Camino day ever.

So I shorten the stage by taking the metro and chose the other alternative via Dos Hermanas.

It takes me 30 minutes to get from the centre of Seville to the southern terminus at Olivar de Quintos. From there, it's only 1 km to a large roundabout with a metal statue with two riders on a horse, which the Camino passes. And then I'm on my way!

By the way, I use the tracks of the Asociación Gaditana Jacobea ‘Vía Augusta’. They also have tracks for the Camino Estrecho and the Via Serrana.

Today's first stage is divided into three similar sections:

(1) Urban hiking on pavements (at the beginning there is a bridleway next to it) and through the less than edifying outskirts of Dos Hermanas. The town itself is nothing remarkable. But the square in front of the church, where I stopped for lunch in a café, is quite pretty. This first part is 100 per cent asphalt.

(2) Straight as a die for 8 kilometres next to the railway line heading south. It starts to rain here and I have to put on my rain poncho, but fortunately it soon passes. Nevertheless, there are a lot of large puddles to avoid on the dirt track.

(3) Another 9 kilometres along a natural path, where there are finally a few trees and a bit of a Camino feeling for the first time. The path leads along olive groves and fields. The railway line runs further east and is out of sight. Here I encounter the first animals and have a little scare with a yapping little white dog just before Utrera.

I reach Utrera from a less attractive side, a few neglected-looking farms and ugly industrial buildings. At 16:30, after just over 26 kilometres, I'm at Utrera station, just in time to see a train to Sevilla Santa Justa pull away. Fortunately, the Cercanias run every 20-30 minutes or so.

Number of pilgrims met on the way: zero (nobody else was walking on the way either)
Number of trains passing by: 10
Number of animals on the loose: 14, four dogs (three of them relaxed) and ten rabbits



Best moment: My lunch break in the centre of Dos Hermanas (picture above). Some local senior citizens had gathered in the square in front of the church and the atmosphere was almost like a Sunday afternoon. They must have been magnetised by a loudspeaker playing Julio Iglesias' cuddly ballads from the 70s. What kind of music would work in my city? Marlene Dietrich or Hildegarde Neff perhaps?

Preview: Tomorrow 32km without any services from Utrera to Las Cabezas de San Juan. Then with my full bag pack. Luckily the forecast is for clouds but no rain. I'm excited and looking forward to tomorrow!

Stay tuned.

 

[WalkingInGers]

No birds and pigs?