Coastal route Porto to Santiago

[sharon w]

Has anyone walked the coastal route between Porto and Santiago? Is it well signposted? Are there albergues?
Sharon

 

[JohnnieWalker]

HI - I haven't walked this route but I'd like to know more myself. A few months ago on the central route from Porto to Santiago I met a group of young people who had previously walked along the coast - they described it as incredibly beautiful with lots of beach and sea side walking. Apparently this route (one of several in Portugal) is not waymarked and there are no albergues - John Brierely in his guide makes a passing point that in fact it is quite the reverse because the increasing popularity of the coastal towns and villages for tourists is pushing up the cost of accommodation. There isn't much information available on this route:

http://www.caminhoportugues.org/index2.htm

Brierely says the following:

"In many respects this is the easiest route to follow as it basically hugs the coast to rejoin the main routes in Valenca. It is virtually impossible to get lost and perhaps for this reason it was a popular route in medieval times..."

He goes on to describe very briefly 6 stages:

Porto - Maia 15kms

Maia - Vila do Conde 18kms

Vila do Conde - Esposende 19kms

Esponsende - Viana do Castelo 24kms

Viana - Caminha 23kms

Caminha - Valenca 27kms

Approximately 126 kms or 6 days walking"

The Tourist Office in Porto is very helpful and speak English - they have linear maps and information on accommodation on 5 routes through Portugal - the central route being the one with pilgrim accommodation. The list includes the coastal route. You can e mail them:

E mail tourismo.central@cm-porto.pt

Website http://www.portoturismo.pt

Or PM me and I'll send it to you.

I think it would be a great adventure to do this route - if you decide to let us know how you get on please!

Regards

John

 

[Peter Robins]

http://pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk/routes ... ugues.html
I do know people who simply walked along the beach (best out of season, presumably - tho against that most of the hotels only open during the season). The group in Viana seems to be reasonably active but they seem to be working on the assumption that their route will link with a route from Rates on the Barcelos route rather than on any route along the coast. I did come across a walk description which implied that this link was either marked or being marked; perhaps the Viana group can tell you what the current status is.

On the Galician side, there were press reports last year that the coast route would be made an official route in 2010, but I wouldn't hold my breath. I believe there is marking of some sorts, but rather patchy - these things soon fade away if they're not regularly maintained.

 

[Canuck]

Here's what I've already discussed with Anniesantiago in a PM:

My wife and I walked the coast from Porto during the period may-June 2005. We were enticed into this particular version of the Camino Portuguese by the Tourist Office in Vila Do Conde, stressing the view on the ocean, the beaches, the fishing villages, etc.
Indeed, we experienced all of the things promised but in a very uncomfortable 40C weather, at the time when the whole of Portugal was on fire (remember the very extensive forest fires Europe experienced during that summer). It was so hot, someday we couldn't walk for more that two or three hours. Needless to say we didn't see much rain, except for one day in Galicia (We would have been surprised otherwise).

There was a total absence of pilgrims' facilities, although we could always find a cosy little pensao, a nice affordable hostal or count on the ever present Portuguese hospitality.

But what made this adventure most difficult was the fact that all of the way is on pavement, on sometimes busy highways, with very inconsiderate drivers.

In essence, this time on the Camino was not easy but as always, an experience to cherish and remember, after showing a tad of open mind.

I wouldn't recommend it to a first timer...

Jean-Marc

 

[sharon w]

Thanks for the info. We are going to start our camino in Lisbon and then were hoping to walk the coastal route after Porto as we thought we'd be able to walk along the beach for part of this walk. As yet we are still undecided and as we will not start our camino till September we have time to work out a good route. We were also thinking of not taking sleeping bags this time and will maybe just rely on sleeping bag liners. Any ideas on this?
This is a wonderful site to access information. When we walked our first camino (Frances) in 2007, we did not know this site existed. So thanks,Ivar.
Sharon

 

[Canuck]

Sharon,

Indeed, just a liner is fine unless you plan on sleeping outside. Lisbon-Porto you'll be in hostal or pensao. For the rest, it will be a combination of commercial accommodations and albergues or fire halls (the bomberos will always look after you), where you can find blankets if required.
Have a good one.
Cheers
Jean-Marc
N-B. In restaurants, only order ''half plate'' (this is customary in Portugal) as it is often more than you can eat.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Sharon, Joe took a lightweight fleece sleeping bag liner and was very comfortable in November on the Portugues. It only cost him about $35.