LIVE from the Camino Camino LEBANIEGO-VADINIENSE (S.Vicente B.)

[unadara]

Santillana-to Lebaniego/Vadiniese
I may not be posting every day so I'm going to enter my Stages now and add details with Photos later. All of this is based on advice received here and on Gronze, and I'm carrying the new Guide book pub by CSJ. Many Thanks.
Day 1 Sat 28th Santillana to Comillas
El Pico Santillana to La Magia Albergue Comillas, Coastal route if possible, lots of rain forecast.
Day 2 Sun 29th Comillas to S.Vicente B. Nomada Albergue.
Day 3 Mon 30th Stopping at Serdio. Hosteria El Corralucu. This may prove to be a mistake as Heavy rains may prevent my walking the River route-we'll see.
Day 4 Tues 1st Hoping for a Highlight River walk with a Dip at a Waterfall. One can hope. Albergue El Carabo- may book dinner as no kitchen facilities. (I can't eat Lentils/Bean stews so I might only get Salad/Bread).
Plan to get the packed lunch for the next day.
Day 5. Wed 2nd, Cicera. Albergue. Need to carry food-dinner/lunch. NS. May be Bar open.
Day 6. Thurs 3rd. Cabanes via River route. PA.
Day 7. Fri 4th. Ojedo. Hosteria Pena Sacra. Might change to Albergue Potes.
Day 8. Sat 5th (sightseeing day incl Mass) San Pelayo/Camaleno- La Vargona Albergue via Potes and the destination Monastery for Mass and.
Day 9. Sun 6th Espinama. Puente Deva (albergue Briz closed for holidays)
Day 10. Mon 7th Fuente De. Parador. Funicular and walks.
Day 11. Tues 8th. Boca de Huergano. Portilla closed for Holiday. ? Taxi from Portilla.
Day 12. Wed 9th. Riano. Hostal Tanis. Hope the weather is good for a Mt climb.
Day 13. Thurs 10th. Salas. Hotel Moto Rural- Vegalion.
Day 14. Fri 11th Cistierna- Albergue.
Day 15. Sat 12th. Gradefes- Albergue. (have Hotel La Alegria Booked though?)
Day 16. Sun 13th arrive at Mansilla or Puente Villarente. Stay at Pension Blanca Leon. Bus to Santander Mon 14th.

 

[davejsy]

Day 11. Tues 8th. Boca de Huergano. Portilla closed for Holiday. ? Taxi from Portilla

There are a couple of Casa Rurals you could try. You would need to book a taxi in advance if you need to.

It's a shame you can't carry on to Boca d H by foot but it would be a long day especially after the climb up from Funte de. In Boca you have Bar/hostel Cresente or the Hotel Tierra de la Reina ( I am there for 3 days from the 9th!) if you want a bit more comfort.

If walking from Portilla it will be on the road, but from Barniedo de la Reina there is a gravel track all the way to Boca de H now which will be much better.

BdH to Riaño is about 1.5 hrs by foot. Are you looking to climb Gilbo when you mention Mt climb?

Much is tarmac if going via Riaño, especially after as I understand and it's a main road albeit through beautiful contryside. It is possible to go via Prioro from BdH and it's a much quieter route, but you may not be comfortable with this (although it is marked as a Camino route).

 

[unadara]

Thanks so much, @davejsy
I've booked Casa Crescente in Boca. I doubt I'll be able to walk that far (we'll see) but yes Taxi would have to be booked.
Yes Gilbo! maybe, I've 2 very short days with intention of trying it in good weather. Some guides differ about alternatives, is Prioro the one you've mentioned before? I nearly went that way but decided to stay with Camino (proper)
Your posts are great and it would have been great to have company for a while. Maybe there'll be another pilgrim about. I'm treating myself to some comfort along the way but really like the basic accommodations also.
I'm a dog lover too. 14yr old English Springer.

 

[davejsy]

Yes I think I've probably mentioned Prioro way before.

I did have a thought you could have gone down to the hostel in Santa Marina de Valdeon which isn't far from Puerto Pandetrave that you come over. You could then walk to Riano from there without too much back-tracking.

Gilbo is beautiful, but requires care especially if the weather is not good. The main route up from the other end of the bridge is well marked though I think, although I've never been up from that route.



I'm there for a few days at the end of another trip, but will be in car as opposed to on foot! It is like my second home there! But if you are still around would be happy to say hello!

 

[davejsy]

Btw - it was snowing in the Picos overnight!

 

[Luka]

¡Buen Camino! I'll be following you, as this one has been put on my list recently too.

 

[unadara]

Day1.
Rain and downpour. Santillana coffee n Tostado stop then Rain until Cobreces. Where my Camino nearly ended. I slipped on a downhill and fell badly on my hip. Ok! Onto Playa de Luana when sun came out. All of this path is Road?!?
Comillas is amazing though. I walked through last time. About 25km total not all Camino.

 

[unadara]

Day 2. Not much to say except if you go by the Playa it’s longer. I also went up to White Geo marker before going back to the road for San Vicente dlB. Lots of road walking again.
I got a swim as it is a sunny Sunday. 16km total. In Nomada Albergue tonight. I think there are others starting on the Lebaniego also. I’m only going to Serdio tomorrow.

 

[unadara]

Day 4. Just to Serdio but managed to walk 17km plus. Weather sunny. I took the Original Camino route up via Hortigal as the Hospitalero recommended it. I stayed in Nomada Hostal. It’s very well run But! The mattresses are rubber, you must use their sleep bags and duvet and all 3 were horrible So I can’t recommend. You pay €20 and get Cereals, Toast , some sort of coffee. I didn’t get much sleep due to the awful mattress and sore hip.
Route! The 3km or so after Hortigal is busy enough road, I didn’t like it. CSJ guide says take shorter alternative and I imagine that’s what most people will do as they’ll be going to Fuente.? Bar Gloria Serdio is closed on Monday. So I walked on after leaving my bag at Hostal to Munorrodero. I was delighted to find a Menu here, lovely food, very good staff and I stayed a few hours. I then took road back to Serdio just less than 3km. I’ll walk those 3km again in the morning. And hopefully I’ll get to do the River path. I’ll have the 2 bars open in the morning to fuel up. The views are stunning already.

 

[unadara]

Day 5
Serdio to Cades-Abergue El Carabao
I could copy and paste @Anamya this day except for a few differences. Distance was over 20km up downetc. In my view Very difficult. Also very very stunningly beautiful. Sun all day.
As I have now finished I would say this River walk was Highlight 2 of the entire distance.

Day 6 10km to Bar-10km after. Forest path into Cicera was downhill and slippy from rain.
I am in Cicera. A day without views. The walk from Cades was in rain. However the Cliff part referred to by @Anamya reminded me of the Walk into Buiza. Yes it’s on road but I never thought it dangerous. And instead of a Wolf I met .beautiful parade of horses. As I stopped to take Coffee and shop in Quntanilla I dropped behind other pilgrims. Or so I thought. There were 12 others I believed were stopping at Cicera.
So how lucky was it to get the river walk done yesterday in sunshine.
(Do it if you can.)
You’ll be sick of the Senda the next day, all the way to Cicera-except for a short Forest path. I heard a pilgrim broke her leg on this part only yesterday.
I now think that if I had the views I wouldn’t have minded the road so much.
I met a Forum member in the Quintanilla bar. @Maggie5859
We could have talked forever but my weather /rain was closing in.
The Albergue in Cicera only opened one room for 8 pilgrims reserved.
Bar Otto was open and I ate an evening meal there. I also used the kitchen in the Albergue (well equipped) to make a fried sandwich and Desayuno. As the rain had stopped next day I looked around the village, it’s lovely.

Day 7.
Cicera to Cabanes. Distance up for discussion.
You leave Cicera and tackle what CSJ says is “reputedly” the hardest on the Lebaniego. It’s 7.5km uphill through a forest.
I’m going to say Highlight one of the Camino. Tough tough climb but fabulous. It’s NOT a forest path as described. Took 3hrs. The other pilgrims took approx same time. Many had stayed at Private rooms the night before. Most were going to Potes.
The recommended Rio route competes for highlight one so I’ll give it 1.5!
Why? Because it was not a Stream, rather a Raging torrent of Cascades/Falls, tremendous sound and I lingered a long time. Then the steep climb up to Private Albergue which was great. Dinner was kinda poor but location, welcome from staff, and drinks with the Views all compensated.

Day 8

Into Potes
Made an error down to Pendes. I was following new CSJ guide and it gives detailed junction directions. However I looked at the Visual arrow on the little drawn map… it goes down But actual path goes UP to the rest area with the Chestnut trees. I knew as I stood on a bridge by the Rio that I’d been here yesterday. Ah well 1km back up, very steep. Pendes then offered another new challenge, the Forest track has been re-surfaced. It’s poured Cement and very hard on the knees, also wasn’t sure it was right.
But I arrived at the Ermita, very soon stopped for a lovely Coffee.
Carried on on easy track to hotel Peña Sagre. Great place. They were so kind. Price €40 by reserva email.
And I’m in Potes.
Next day I went to Mass collected my Certificate. Climbed to a nearby Ermita. The lady in the Pilgrims office gave me detailed directions how to carry on to the Vadiniese.
And I will say about that path in my next post.

 

[unadara]

Worth all the Effort…

 

[unadara]

 

[Murdy]

We've been following your posts and are about to start from San Vicente ourselves today! I hope all has continued to progress well on your journey and look forward to further updates!

 

[unadara]

Camino Vadiniese.
Day 1.
I was only going to Albergue La Vargona so decided to take the off roads sighted as CSJ guide says it’s not a recommendation but a must for safety.
So memory here first one off to right a bit difficult to be sure but you go up and up then over a bit then down and down? Guide tells you the distances and you do get the views. Down to San Pelayo. I went back just now to read @Suzanas posts (hope that’s right). You go down at a junction into the village which is well off the main road, this is also where the Camino goes. The Albergue and Menu and Breakfast was great. However here I encountered very loud English speaking diners who in my view were offensively repeatedly asking for their orders in English, they got louder and I had to leave. I went to the Camping San Pelayo were I would recommend, lovely bar.
Next dsy
Day 2
San Pelayo to Espinama
I returned to the T junction and walked 1 km when I realised I was wrong. Ire read CSJ but couldn’t make head nor tail of it. So back to village to the River and there beside a very large building is an Arrow pointing to lovely River path. Sometimes in the morning it’s easy to go wrong. Now thanks to @Tincatinker ive got mapy.cz and I won’t miss the path again. I followed all the off road ways. On entering the National Parque the Camino stays beside the river not the red/white Ruta flashes. It was quite beautiful. Until you get to the path the CSJ says it gets muddy here!!! I went right over the bridge and finished on the road. There is an interesting Mirador here with new seating down the river. Only for walkers as there is no place to park and very welcome. Right beside a very loud waterfall.
In Espinama I stayed at Puente Deva Albergue was closed, however I heard from pilgrims it was open next night. I ate at Vicente restaurant, posh Sunday lunch. Yummy. That night I had a drink at Hostal Remona. It looks a very good place to stay.
Day 3
On to Fuente De where the Cable car was closed due to high winds.
The best laid plans of mice and men?
I had a good few hours wandering around, Forest bathing etc (have you heard of that-hah!)
The stay at Parador was excellent. Food was very good, not expensive.
The Hurricane was coming though and I was nervous.

 

[unadara]

No walking between Portilla De La Reina and Riano.
Resume from Riano to Moto VegaLion Hotel

 

[unadara]

Moto Vegalion Hotel 11th Oct
Cremenes to Cistierna
5 star day. Calzada Roman, Elsa river and Forest paths , all difficult but rewarding. Able to take a break at Bar/Restaurante just as you come off the Roman road. I changed my socks here as the path was wet. Everywhere has been wet. It is very difficult to make progress on these paths. I was determined to stay in the Albergue Cistierna . I met my 2nd group of pilgrims walking in by the Coal mines. They had just booked Hostal Moderno and I rang to try and book. Completo. One of the group was Irish so I thought I could have some conversation. Not to be. I cannot recommend the Albergue. I’m sorry. No hot water, just got Luke warm. Microwave in a terrible state. Nice blankets though. I was on my own €12.
It turned out Hostal Moderno was not serving dinner. A rest day.
I was happy enough. The Alimerka supermarket was open all day.

 

[unadara]

Cistierna to Gradefes
The day started well. I ate at the Albergue as I knew there were no services and also today 12th Oct is a holiday. I was glad I’d booked the Hotel in Gradefes (1km off Camino) as it seemed 7 pilgrims all men were going to Albergue and there would be nowhere to eat. The path is small road, lot of forest and then by side of water canals. 2 separate acts of kindness, lady in village Santibanez invited me into the Centro Sociale to have coffee and a rest. How kind. I’m the next village I stopped at a bench to take off my coat and a man came out of his house to give me a Yogurt and spoon. I was so happy. I was carrying plenty of food but loved these gestures. I saw 2 of the other pilgrims during the day. I was besieged by insects all day, not for the first time, between Potes and Espinama I had problems too. It’s farming country, there’s been lots of rain, but it kinda ruined my day. That and it was over 24km/flat though no climbing. I feel tired. The Monastery in Gradefes is beautiful and I visited before I went to the Hotel.

 

[unadara]

Cistierna to Gradefes
Highly recommend the Hotel Alegria just outside Gradefes. You get Dinner and a Coffee/cake breakfast (open 7.30am) for me €48 incl a glass of wine. You get house wine/water with dinner.

 

[unadara]

Gradefes to Puente de Villarente/Leon
Wow.
First 10km flew by lovely trees lit by sun rising. No desayuno at Hotel just Coffee/Cake. I arrived at San Miguel del Escalada just as the Official was arriving. I can imagine other Pilgrims would be long gone by. Beautiful. Then the day went a bit astray. CSJ advises to turn right if you want to go to the San Pedro de Olego Monastery. (Ruins)This route is not on mapy.cz
But you can see where you are.I thought it would be on the LE -213 road but it was cross country, very good track if a bit claggy/wet. But it got Hot. It reminded me of Meseta. The thought of the open bar (on Sundays) 5km away kept me going. I had plenty of water. No bar open! Just glad of shade and refilled 2 water bottles. Was not impressed by Ruins of Monastery. Probably my state of mind. I stopped at next Iglesia to rest and eat. Couldn’t eat much. So I missed reading the Guide book which says the next track is unsigned. I walked next 9km on minor road. One step at a time. At Cafe Frida Villafane I almost fell in the door and thought of Alec Guinness. The local Hombres were Very amused or bemused. 2 Cerveza con limon and Tortilla got me to El Delfin Verde and another drink and Pincho and Bus to Leon. Almost 30kms
I doubt many people take that last alternative route though there are signs, the sign is missing in San Miquel del Escalada due to Obras.

 

[unadara]

My bus today from Leon to Oviedo brought me on the San Salvador route. It’s beautiful to see it again. Especially The Mirador between Poladura and then Pajares village. Have to return.
The bus from Oviedo to Santander brings you along Camino de Norte. More images from yesterday.