P.S. Roncesvalles
In the end we were 28 pilgrims (extraordinary for this time of the year!) in Roncesvalles, added nationality was: Italy – a peregrina that started at the door of her home in Parma (North of Italy and home of excellent ham). They had to open the second dorm, where beds are not side by side, but touching each other only in the food/head area, so I switch quietly dorms as my other bed was very close to a male pilgrim I had never seen before in my life ;-)
Important! Also this part of the albergue doesn't have any blankets at all! But they do sell sleeping bags at the office ...
Dinner: I nearly died of the shock! Not only was there more than enough soup, bread and pasta for everybody as a first course – there wasn't any trout for the second course!!! A very first one in all the years I have slept as a pilgrim in Roncesvalles. The choices for second course were merluza (hake) and San Jacobo (a kind of thin Cordon Bleu) with plenty of side dish / fries. What happened to trout, meatballs and tiny portions? Lol, as the lady in the pilgrims reception had told me the proprietor/tenant in both places (Posada/Sabina) has changed recently and things are looking up ;-) There is, at the moment, only one seating, so the order of the pilgrims day is mass, menu and then guided visit.
After the dinner one of the priests, there are only four now in Roncesvalles, came to the albergue to invite everybody interested to a guided tour of the church and surrounding buildings. Well worth the effort as you get to see and explained the cloister, one of the salas with a magnificent medieval tomb, the attic of the church and the church itself. We were nearly all Spanish speakers on that visit, apart of three Koreans. One spoke English very well, but the other two mainly – Korean. So we played a game of Chinese whispers. The priest explained everything in Spanish, I translated that into English for one Korean who in turn translated what I said into Korean for the other two. I am still wondering what they heard/understood at the end of this translation chain … After that one hour of nearly continuous translating, I treated myself to a large glass of vino tinto and then off to bed. As I wrote earlier, the albergue door doesn't close in winter, but the pilgrims were very considerate and nobody came back late or loudly. And, another Camino miracle, there wasn't a single snorer in the room!
Roncesvalles > Zubiri
Whilst there wasn't a snorer around, there was one eager pilgrim that put his alarm clock at 6 o'clock sharpish – sigh – doesn't get light until after 8 and nothing to be had food-wise until then either. At quarter past seven I was all packed up and got antsy legs, so I set off in the dark and was soon overtaken by two speedy pilgrims that used their torches to race towards Pamplona. I walked in the dark, slowly and carefully and enjoyed that it slowly became light.
Weather – Surprisingly there was no hoarse frost in the morning and the day was later even sunny and quite warm ~18C in the sun BUT that is very unusual for this time of the year, snow and frost is more usual!
Waymarking – As the waymarking is excellent on the CF, I will only comment on it when there really is something to say. So no news is good news, also when it comes to scallop shells and yellow arrows ;-)
Burguete – There were, when I passed by, two cafes/bars open, one at the very beginning of the village and one just before the church.
Espinal – The bar in the centre of the village was open.
Bizkarreta – The bar in the middle of the village was open as was the shop at the end of it.
Linzoain – Nothing open as far as I could see.
Alto de Erro – The mobile bar here has closed down for the season.
Zubiri
Albergue – The only albergue open in town was
Rio Arga Ibaia, just over the bridge and it is the very first building on the left. Spacious dorms, excellent showers, private rooms available, blankets, wifi, excellent kitchen, washer/dryer for an additional fee, terrace, fire place, breakfast (pretty good one!) included in the price of 15 Euro. No closing time, they show you where the key is hidden.
Eating – I had a look at the only open restaurant at the end of the town (by the fuel station) and wasn't too impressed, fellow pilgrims that had eaten there said it was ok-ish … The small but well assorted supermarket is just 3 min walk from the albergue, so I self-catered. In the same building as the supermarket is also a small bar that serves good pintxos.
Zubiri > Trinidad de Arre
Important! Nothing between the two places is open, take enough food and water!
Way: Decaying leaves, some steep descends and the moisture/fog from the river create some slippery bits, especially where the way has been partly washed away (roughly between Larrasoaña and Irotz).
Weather: A bit foggy, but lifting later, colder then the day before, ~8C.
Illarratz – No signs of life in The Abbey.
Larrasoaña – As I passed absolutely everything was closed and the whole town seemed to have fallen into hibernation. Same in other following villages.
I took the variant via
Zabaldika, whilst there are no services in the villages, the sisters of the small community there are very hospitable even when their albergue is closed and are happy to show you the church and let you use the toilet in their house.
Trinidad de Arre
Albergue – Pilgrims sleep in winter in a small flat on the first floor, presumably the former flat of the sacristan as it has a direct connection to the church choir. Limited heating, but blankets, somewhat equipped kitchen, showers, 3 small dorms with 2-4 beds – 8 Euro. All other offers you see advertised in the entrance (wifi, washer/dryer etc.) refer to the main albergue which is closed for the winter. A good place to stay if you want to experience how pilgrims where housed some ~15 years ago ;-) Make sure you know when the albergue closes for the night as signage in the house differs between 21:30 and 22:00. Also a brother 'counts his sheep' earlier in the hope to be able to close earlier, so if you plan to go out again, tell him when he comes around!
Eating/Shopping – Again, I self-catered, but there are plenty of bars on and near the Camino to Pamplona and the Marist brothers that run the albergue have a very helpful map that shows you where all things are …
Trinidad de Arre > Uterga (via Eunate)
Weather: Mainly foggy and coolish, ~8C
Way: It has to be said – the way marking to and out of Pamplona is excellent! As I know it already I speeded through, but if you don't visit at least the cathedral with its beautiful cloister!
Cizur Menor – Bars open, but albergues closed.
Zariquiegui – Everything closed.
Alto de Perdon – Quite an interesting view in heavy fog ;-) and the descend is its usual slippery, rocky avalanche of lose stones – be careful in wet weather!
Uterga
I stayed al albergue
Casa Baztan – very recommendable! The hospitalero receives you with a glass of water and a plate of olives. Good showers, blankets, wifi, washer (for a fee) but no dryer instead a heated clothes rack and a fire place. You can use the kitchen, but they also offer tasty pilgrim meals. Breakfast (and a good one!) included in the price of 10 Euro. If you, like me, prefer nice, quiet places – stay there! Also no closing time – as nothing really to do in the village ;-)
The owners plan to keep the albergue open all winter, even if that means staying open for very few pilgrims, so if you pass the village, say at least hello to the kind hospitalero and buy a coffee or so ;-)
Uterga > Puente la Reina
Weather: Less foggy and warming up with some sunshine, ~12C.
Way: The detour to Eunate (closed in winter!) is well marked and starts in the village of Muruzabal.
Muruzabal: Bar was open.
Obanos: Bars open.
Puente la Reina
The only open
albergue is the one of the
Padres Reparadores at the beginning of town. Excellent heating, blankets, wifi, good showers, washer/dryer for a fee, well equipped kitchen, no real closing time – the last pilgrim to bed pulls the door close ;-) Cost: 5 Euro.
Important! The albergue is very close to a busy road and thefts have happened in the past, so keep a very close eye on your belongings! But you do that anyway, don't you? ;-)
Eating/Shopping – Restaurant Tito, directly on the Camino on the right side does not only do an excellent menu, it also caters to vegetarian and/or gluten-free living pilgrims. A bit further, on the same side of the street is
La Tienda del Camino (or similar name) that is open 7 days a week and also offers a lot of vegetarian/gluten-free food options.
Puente la Reina > Estella
Mañeru – An open bar on the right, just before you start the climb up, and a shop in the centre.
Cirauqui – All was closed as I passed by.
Way – The descent onto the 'Roman' bridge gets every year worse, as does the climb at its end ;-( There is now an alternative path down to the bridge marked which makes things a bit easier …
Lorca – All closed as I passed.
Villatuerta - All closed as I passed.
Estella
Albergue – I stayed at the
municipal one at the beginning of town and was even allowed to stay a second night (one of the many advantages of making the pilgrimage in winter ;-) Blankets, good showers, washers/dryers for a fee, wifi, excellent kitchen, all for 6 Euro.
Pilgrim Numbers: They are now dropping down to 5-8 pilgrims a day as the week with two public holidays (6.12. Constitution and 8.12. Immaculate Conception of Mary) is over.
Eating – There is a Taller Gastronomico at the other side of the steep, old bridge which is rumoured to be excellent ;-) Unfortunately I was at the weekend in Estella when their menu prices (like everywhere!) go up and up! Nearby is Bar Alday whose pilgrims menu isn't inspiring, but does nice, local dishes 'by the plate' for very reasonable prices. Also the
Restaurant Katxetas does tasty and reasonably priced menus.
Estella > Los Arcos
Important! Nothing between Villamayor de Monjardin and Los Arcos (12km)!
Weather: A really warm day, again, this is highly unusual for December!
Ayegui – The wine (and water!) fountain of Irache is also working in winter.
Azqueta – No open bar, the albergue La Perla Negra opens on request.
Villamayor de Monjardin – The bar in the village, going up the stairs to the plaza, was open.
Los Arcos
Albergue – La Fuente/Casa de Austria is directly on the Camino and provides all the usual amenities like shower, well equipped kitchen, wifi, heating, fire place, washer/dryer (additional cost), blankets plus some nice outside sitting areas. Also an albergue dog called Mambo – give him an ear scratchie from me! Albergue, most likely, closed in January for renovation.
Eating/Shopping – I was there on a Sunday and no shops open at all plus only one open bar to find … The menu at 'Buen Camino' opposite the church was exceedingly – regular ;-)
Los Arcos > Viana
Weather: Another glorious, sunny day.
Sansol: All closed, only a tiny bar-shop seemed to be open, but that with limited offers.
Torres del Rio: The bar in the hostal at the entrance of the village was open and the albergue La Pata de la Oca looked pretty open to me. Also the little shop after that albergue was open.
Viana: The municipal albergue Andres Muñoz is open and will stay open the whole winter. The key is guarded by the local police (telephone number at door) and they will also show up shortly before opening time at 15:30. Good kitchen, shower, wifi and blankets. There are some washers/dryers but they looked a bit 'out of sell by date'.
Eating/shopping: Again, I self-catered but there are plenty of places open!
Viana > Logroño
Weather: Heavy fog and quite coolish and very humid.
A short stage, but the parocchial albergue of the
Santiago el Real Church is always a must-stop for me and that is from where I type this updates.
Albergue: Very simple, just bunk beds with blankets, showers and some clothes racks. Communal dinner, pilgrims prayer and breakfast – all on a donation base (which doesn't mean free ;-) Again, one of those albergues that gives you a good idea how the Camino was ~15 years ago!
Extra Note: Whilst many shops and bars that cater predominantly to pilgrims are closed during the winter you will find many vending machines alongside the
Camino Frances, often in converted garages that give at least some shelter ;-
.) Before I turn in for the night I tend to source which place is open for breakfast in the morning in case I AM kicked out at 8am. (Note that this doesn’t always work. The night shift tell you they open at 8am, but the morning shift are sometimes still in bed at 8am 
.)
