caminka
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
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Day 19: le Puy-en-Velay - Landos 27,5km
This is a continuation of my 2024 camino in France. For the first part, see my reports on Via Gebenennsis)
Through the night and in the morning storms and strong showers were sailing to and fro above le Puy. Still, everyone was up and about by 6am and at breakfast by 6h30. It was so nice to see excited faces of those who were starting, or more expectant faces of those who already came here walking. Amongst them was a german guy who started in Berlin, bivouaced a lot, and walked south to le Puy to have more company.
Because of the rain, I started only after 7am when there was a lull. Still, I kept a close eye on the clouds and on the possible roofs, so I managed to duck into a handy garage when the next barrage of rain came. And then into a bus shelter.
The Regordane follows the suburbs of le Puy for a bit more than 2km then starts climbing. The grass was of course all wet. I had a reprieve from the rain for just enough that I could photograph le Puy's silhuette entwined in the mist, then the next storm came down.
When I reached the plateau the rain calmed a bit and the going was good, on gravel and asphalt roads almost due south.
After Tarreyres the route descends a stony lane to the former railway viaduct, crosses it then climbs up even steeper and more stony lane. I briefly considered staying on the gravel voie verte (bicycle lane) but dismissed the idea - my legs get a lot more and more quickly tired on flat surfaces.
After this big valley the Regordane traverses a high plateau covered in still green fields, meadows and pastures with far-reaching views, and sprinkled with small villages. Very beautiful. Reminiscent a bit of Spain in May.
Every village had a big fountain but none were drinkable. That is 27km without a water source that I have seen! The route is exposed so plan accordingly. But I got to use my water filter!
I started to feel the 'strolling' flatish gravel roads after about 20km and by the time I reached Landos everything hurt. I detoured to the lovely romanesque church first because I doubted I would budge much once I was in the room.
I am sleeping in gite d'etape la Bascule in the centre of the village on the main road. There is another hiker here, a woman, but we each have our own rooms. Which are up steep flight of stairs, or two, if you are on the second floor. Bed €22, dinner €17-20, breakfast €8, washing machine €4, towel €4. I think I payed extra €3 for being vegetarian (an omelette instead of chicken and more salad instead of sausage), I've seen this a few times posted on internet sites of gites d'etapes on the Stevenson.
I am getting hungry, perhaps I should head downstairs and see if I can get an early dinner.
... Dinner was still excellent.
![IMG_20240712_161414.jpg IMG_20240712_161414.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173146-7d58db22bf2a5fd9b8067f3a69a0bc8d.jpg)
This is a continuation of my 2024 camino in France. For the first part, see my reports on Via Gebenennsis)
Through the night and in the morning storms and strong showers were sailing to and fro above le Puy. Still, everyone was up and about by 6am and at breakfast by 6h30. It was so nice to see excited faces of those who were starting, or more expectant faces of those who already came here walking. Amongst them was a german guy who started in Berlin, bivouaced a lot, and walked south to le Puy to have more company.
Because of the rain, I started only after 7am when there was a lull. Still, I kept a close eye on the clouds and on the possible roofs, so I managed to duck into a handy garage when the next barrage of rain came. And then into a bus shelter.
The Regordane follows the suburbs of le Puy for a bit more than 2km then starts climbing. The grass was of course all wet. I had a reprieve from the rain for just enough that I could photograph le Puy's silhuette entwined in the mist, then the next storm came down.
When I reached the plateau the rain calmed a bit and the going was good, on gravel and asphalt roads almost due south.
After Tarreyres the route descends a stony lane to the former railway viaduct, crosses it then climbs up even steeper and more stony lane. I briefly considered staying on the gravel voie verte (bicycle lane) but dismissed the idea - my legs get a lot more and more quickly tired on flat surfaces.
After this big valley the Regordane traverses a high plateau covered in still green fields, meadows and pastures with far-reaching views, and sprinkled with small villages. Very beautiful. Reminiscent a bit of Spain in May.
Every village had a big fountain but none were drinkable. That is 27km without a water source that I have seen! The route is exposed so plan accordingly. But I got to use my water filter!
I started to feel the 'strolling' flatish gravel roads after about 20km and by the time I reached Landos everything hurt. I detoured to the lovely romanesque church first because I doubted I would budge much once I was in the room.
I am sleeping in gite d'etape la Bascule in the centre of the village on the main road. There is another hiker here, a woman, but we each have our own rooms. Which are up steep flight of stairs, or two, if you are on the second floor. Bed €22, dinner €17-20, breakfast €8, washing machine €4, towel €4. I think I payed extra €3 for being vegetarian (an omelette instead of chicken and more salad instead of sausage), I've seen this a few times posted on internet sites of gites d'etapes on the Stevenson.
I am getting hungry, perhaps I should head downstairs and see if I can get an early dinner.
... Dinner was still excellent.
![IMG_20240712_081525_1.jpg IMG_20240712_081525_1.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173137-063e26bc69fcc42ba0f2d288d30a4b14.jpg)
![IMG_20240712_085343.jpg IMG_20240712_085343.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173138-1df94c4b48a071be1d8bf2fa113c641c.jpg)
![IMG_20240712_091449_1.jpg IMG_20240712_091449_1.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173139-d88d3c5a834a333af7552848ecd2f896.jpg)
![IMG_20240712_101953.jpg IMG_20240712_101953.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173140-3e18f1c2f0625bf028aff3e40abb5f9a.jpg)
![IMG_20240712_104346.jpg IMG_20240712_104346.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173141-ecadcd5e8a4915131fc7f61ab153dee4.jpg)
![IMG_20240712_132748.jpg IMG_20240712_132748.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173142-560b3449354ae8449fee75dfcceb5871.jpg)
![IMG_20240712_140640.jpg IMG_20240712_140640.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173143-f1e1b6b322073062f5e8595d2caf0388.jpg)
![IMG_20240712_145144_1.jpg IMG_20240712_145144_1.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173144-eaacb68d987d9d842706759d85b30a69.jpg)
![IMG_20240712_151752.jpg IMG_20240712_151752.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173145-06c2d441fc34c296ec2e0166d4c478f8.jpg)
![IMG_20240712_161414.jpg IMG_20240712_161414.jpg](https://caminoforum-4df7.kxcdn.com/data/attachments/173/173146-7d58db22bf2a5fd9b8067f3a69a0bc8d.jpg)
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