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LIVE from the Camino Caminha to SDC

TravellingMan22

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Portuguese/Frances 2020/Norte 2021
So I thought I would give this ‘live from the Camino’ lark a go. I don’t normally record much and it is only relatively recently I have even started taking photos. It may not interest many! I am not from the ‘religious / spiritual’ world, ‘the Camino provides’ mantra, I am not looking to learn any lessons, or for it to be a catalyst to change my life… I am just looking to enjoy a walk and reflect I guess (I am quite a deep thinker especially when I walk). But let see what emerges! There will definitely be some practical tips based on the last few mins (more to come on that).

So some preamble.

I have done 3 Caminos before, the Portuguese (starting at Porto and turning into the Central), the Frances, and the Norte. The first two were in the summer of 2020 and the third was in the summer of 2021.

So back in June 2020 when Covid was in full swing, I think we were in lockdown in UK. I was furloughed from work and spent my time walking close to home. Portugal was trying to encourage folks to visit and up popped an airline with a flight and off I flew to Porto. No real plan, just be nice to get my hair cut, and have a few glasses of wine. I didn’t know it then but I would never return to work, and have only returned to the UK a few times as I have lived nomadically for the last four years. Just before that I had divorced, sold my house, the children had grown up so opportunity knocked!

I worked in travel my whole life and was good at it, and am quite open and outgoing. So being nomadic comes easy to me and the Camino environment came very easy to me too. Very similar but the hostels were nicer and calmer, the people largely quieter and more respectful. Walking too. I have never owned a car and average 18k steps a day.

I had been to Porto a lot of times and love it but got a bit restless so I vaguely remember someone mentioning a Camino from Porto. A quick google and some downloads and I was on my way next morning.

I was planning to do the coastal route from Porto to SDC. Borders between EU countries were closed and were due to reopen but Portugal and Spain delayed their opening by a week. So I walked slowly, spent 2 or 3 nights in some places, and ultimately decided to go inland and join the central to do more walking and less hanging around.

Now, I am walking from Caminha to Santiago. Why? Well about a month ago I had no caminos planned. My (on-off - it’s complex) partner and I booked three weeks in Coruna on vacation. When we were looking at our journey back I was itching to do a Camino so decided to walk the Ingles from Ferrol and fly back from SDC. Camino fever struck and finally decided to walk the VDLP in October. Been itching to do this for years but every time it got close I did something else. So that’s two Caminos. A couple of weeks back my partner got the chance to do something special next week. It scuppered our flight plans to Coruna so we needed to change things and I decided to go a few days earlier to walk to Santiago. It had to be the coastal as that was my initial direction a years back and as I am trying to be less nomadic and more ‘fixed’ from pretty much now it feels like a closing of a chapter!


More to follow shortly!

Attachment.png
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
So I planned this Camino about 7 days ago. I like to book a bed ahead so literally booked 7 nights hostel accommodation in a matter of mins. To make it work I need to start tomorrow 20 Aug and be in SDC on 27th. Shouldn’t be too tricky. I may need to play around with plan still as I have a few short days and a few long days! Not quite balanced. I am still in the ‘free cancellation’ mode for my hostels and will be meeting a few folks tonight who will be able to offer some thoughts.

It’s all a bit of a rush. I was in Mason, Ohio 48 hours ago at a very remote bus stop! Flew home to UK, spent a day in UK, and flew to Lisbon yesterday afternoon. I am currently on the Rede Expresso bus from Lisbon Sete Rios to Caminha. It nearly all went wrong! The bus drivers scanner wouldn’t accept my ticket. He wasn’t budging and I had to run to ticket office to get it sorted! Please note that. Apparently the QR code you get when you book is a receipt and not a ticket! I just had a message from the hostel to invite me to a pilgrims dinner tonight so really looking forward to that and picking some brains. Judging by the attached photo everyone is incredibly attractive and they only drink water even tho a glass of wine is only €1. Not sure I will fit in!
 
So I thought I would give this ‘live from the Camino’ lark a go. I don’t normally record much and it is only relatively recently I have even started taking photos. It may not interest many! I am not from the ‘religious / spiritual’ world, ‘the Camino provides’ mantra, I am not looking to learn any lessons, or for it to be a catalyst to change my life… I am just looking to enjoy a walk and reflect I guess (I am quite a deep thinker especially when I walk). But let see what emerges! There will definitely be some practical tips based on the last few mins (more to come on that).

So some preamble.

I have done 3 Caminos before, the Portuguese (starting at Porto and turning into the Central), the Frances, and the Norte. The first two were in the summer of 2020 and the third was in the summer of 2021.

So back in June 2020 when Covid was in full swing, I think we were in lockdown in UK. I was furloughed from work and spent my time walking close to home. Portugal was trying to encourage folks to visit and up popped an airline with a flight and off I flew to Porto. No real plan, just be nice to get my hair cut, and have a few glasses of wine. I didn’t know it then but I would never return to work, and have only returned to the UK a few times as I have lived nomadically for the last four years. Just before that I had divorced, sold my house, the children had grown up so opportunity knocked!

I worked in travel my whole life and was good at it, and am quite open and outgoing. So being nomadic comes easy to me and the Camino environment came very easy to me too. Very similar but the hostels were nicer and calmer, the people largely quieter and more respectful. Walking too. I have never owned a car and average 18k steps a day.

I had been to Porto a lot of times and love it but got a bit restless so I vaguely remember someone mentioning a Camino from Porto. A quick google and some downloads and I was on my way next morning.

I was planning to do the coastal route from Porto to SDC. Borders between EU countries were closed and were due to reopen but Portugal and Spain delayed their opening by a week. So I walked slowly, spent 2 or 3 nights in some places, and ultimately decided to go inland and join the central to do more walking and less hanging around.

Now, I am walking from Caminha to Santiago. Why? Well about a month ago I had no caminos planned. My (on-off - it’s complex) partner and I booked three weeks in Coruna on vacation. When we were looking at our journey back I was itching to do a Camino so decided to walk the Ingles from Ferrol and fly back from SDC. Camino fever struck and finally decided to walk the VDLP in October. Been itching to do this for years but every time it got close I did something else. So that’s two Caminos. A couple of weeks back my partner got the chance to do something special next week. It scuppered our flight plans to Coruna so we needed to change things and I decided to go a few days earlier to walk to Santiago. It had to be the coastal as that was my initial direction a years back and as I am trying to be less nomadic and more ‘fixed’ from pretty much now it feels like a closing of a chapter!


More to follow shortly!

View attachment 176515
Bom Caminho!
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
On the bus to Caminha! It’s a pleasant but unremarkable journey. The buses are nice as was the bus station and rede expressos are pretty impressive, and the buses and the staff look very professional. A lovely shade of blue covers the buses, the ticket office, the departure board and even the very smart bus drivers! There is a very good ‘Lidl’ by the bus station with all manner of crossants, breads etc. I got a stock in but no vino!!

National cultures alway fascinate me. It’s very quiet. A week ago today I was on a Greyhound bus from Detroit to Cincinnati. It’s was very entertaining (mainly for the right reasons) with the bus driver fancying himself as a stand up comedian. And the passengers… well everyone spoke to me and everyone else. I really enjoyed it. Not here though. I always miss the folks when I return from USA. So polite, open, friendly and helpful. Everyone always seems so suprised when I say this… especially Americans!

I am really looking forward to the pilgrim dinner tonight. It’s pasta btw - who knew! I guess everyone else will have been walking from Porto or Lisbon so I better know my place and not walk in full of ‘first day’ energy. I have a boat booked at 0730. It’s the first one. I am walking about 20km tomorrow. I am a very slow walker but able to keep going. I am not fit, I can hardly run or cycle but walking is ok. I like to walk alone and catch up with folks either lunchtime or in the evening though I am not wedded to meeting folks. It’s a nice bonus but not an essential. I have a real love of Germany and half of the people I meet seem to be from Germany, and half of those seem to be from Berlin. They get about the Berliners!

I want a good diet on this Camino and minimal booze. I have already eaten too much! I want to lose weight and I need to avoid the temptation of €1 a glass vino.

I try to travel light as due to various injuries have quite poor upper body strength. A few pairs of shorts and t shirts. I don’t really go for rainwear or blister packs, but I have too many phones and cables and a power pack the size of California.

The forecast looks good at moment. I am not one for the cold and wet! 25 degrees please.
 
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So I planned this Camino about 7 days ago. I like to book a bed ahead so literally booked 7 nights hostel accommodation in a matter of mins. To make it work I need to start tomorrow 20 Aug and be in SDC on 27th. Shouldn’t be too tricky. I may need to play around with plan still as I have a few short days and a few long days! Not quite balanced. I am still in the ‘free cancellation’ mode for my hostels and will be meeting a few folks tonight who will be able to offer some thoughts.

It’s all a bit of a rush. I was in Mason, Ohio 48 hours ago at a very remote bus stop! Flew home to UK, spent a day in UK, and flew to Lisbon yesterday afternoon. I am currently on the Rede Expresso bus from Lisbon Sete Rios to Caminha. It nearly all went wrong! The bus drivers scanner wouldn’t accept my ticket. He wasn’t budging and I had to run to ticket office to get it sorted! Please note that. Apparently the QR code you get when you book is a receipt and not a ticket! I just had a message from the hostel to invite me to a pilgrims dinner tonight so really looking forward to that and picking some brains. Judging by the attached photo everyone is incredibly attractive and they only drink water even tho a glass of wine is only €1. Not sure I will fit in!
I hope your crew tonight is welcoming and fun! Buen Camino!
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Day 1 - Caminha to O Serrallo

Kms: 22.5. Steps: 32k in just over 5 hours.

Ah the good life. A truly fantastic day bathed in sunshine. About 10 folks left Caminha on the first ferry at 0730 - €6 bookable online. 9 walkers and 1 cyclist. It takes 1 hr 15 mins. No, not really it takes 15 mins (if that) but you have to set your watches an hour forward as you enter Spain. Lots of laughter on board, about nothing specific just a lot happy people looking forward to an exceptional day. Quite a lot of people mainly young and nearly all European.

I walked for a while with a couple and had a great chat. We walked slightly above my normal pace and I felt it as we split. It was hot but when next to coast had a nice breeze, but for the majority of the walk, although close to the coast, you didn’t get the breeze. Some forests and road walking too. I only stopped once for a coffee and managed to spill a full cup for the second time in a week.

Other than that it was pretty straightforward. It was nice to be on camino again, after a break of 3 years (apart from a 1 day walk on the first stage of the VDLP last year).

Looking forward, I had a couple of 35km days planned but have changed my plans to do short days and arrive in Santiago a day later and leave for Coruna almost straight away. I am mindful that planning to do the VDLP in October and could do with some long days, but sure I will be fine.

I am not used to getting to my hostel as early as 1400 as I like walking into late afternoon/ early evening, but it’s a nice place and it’s nice and warm so I won’t be complaining.
 
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Another beautiful day walking from Oia to Sabaris. The first 1/3 to 1/2 is along a main road but I found the spectacular views of the coast more than compensated. Then you go inland and walk through a forest and through small towns. Lovely weather for walking, warm enough but not as warm as yesterday. I loved the early morning mist over the ocean. I love the sea but especially when it’s misty as it shows a mystique and a power that ‘picture postcard’ blue skies don’t quite convey.

I am only walking 20km a day which I am not used too. I am enjoying it though. It certainly takes the pressure off. My big concern was what to do with getting to the albergue so early. Well it’s easy today. Whilst walking through Baiona, it felt so alive so after checking into hostel I have come back here. Most places are closed 1600-2000 but I have found a place serving lovely Galician Vino Tinto at €2.50 a throw. Must remember my albergue shuts at 2300!

I was pleased with levels of fitness. It felt quite easy for the most part. I think the first day of a Camino always feels a bit like ‘new boy at school’ but today, my second day, felt very comfortable and familiar. I have a few foot issues, longstanding, but doubt it will be a factor here.

Had a few chats on way. A very dapper youngish man came through looking smart in a lovely pair of shorts and immaculate Ralph Lauren white shirt. I love fashion and clothes. I complimented him on how good he looked, and was told there is an Italian lady walking who looks incredible and dressed as if going to the Opera. I will keep a look out. Talking of looks, seen lots of cyclists, not necessarily camino’ers. It occurred to me that cyclists all look so fit, tanned and good looking whilst the walkers are a varied bunch! Always in awe of cyclists. I used to cycle 25 miles round trip to work and if killed me! Walking so much easier.

There seems to be a lot more females walking than males. Mostly the men seem to be with women, and most of the women seem to be with women. Cyclists seem to be male dominated.

It has been fantastic so far and I have replannned the last few days so that I can do the Espiritual Variant.
 
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Third day in. What a fantastic day it was too. Around 24.4 kms ( 35k steps), in 6 hrs. Just north of Baiona to Vigo.

Overdid the vino last night. I had walked back into Baiona as couldn’t resist the multitude of attractive bars. Woke up a little groggy this morning but was off and running quite quickly. It had rained overnight which I was initially disappointed with, but it proved to be the catalyst for a great day.

There was plenty of road and tarmac walking but plenty of forest walking too. The misty sky and drizzle made walking through forest quite mystical and magical. Couldn’t have asked for anything more.

I didn’t have breakfast and walked for 15km without stopping. I went in a cafe when it was drizzling, but when I emerged 30 mins later it was blue skies.

The approach into Vigo was lovely. In a park with a river to the right. I eventually passed then Celta Vigo Football ground. There are a big deal here and I was quite chuffed that they are on the Camino route. I have zero interest in churches but lots of interest in football grounds, they have a home match for tonight and I have a ticket and will be joining the worshippers for a 1900 kick off. Plenty of bars for pre match around too.

As I walked into Vigo the bars were packed less than two hours since the sun came out. Very vibrant! It’s a busy day here. Many of the football fans are already in the bars. Going to be a busy night!’
 
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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
24 Aug. Day 4. Vigo to Arcade

Approx 25km / 35k steps

Had a great evening in Vigo last night along (day 3) with 30k folks watching their team win. It was quite an atmosphere and the party continued late into the evening.

So onwards and upwards. Really pleased re my ability to walk and how my feet are. Walked 33km yesterday of which 25km was Camiño (the other 8 was to and from the football ground). I walk a lot at home (average 18k steps a day so that seems to be paying off).

Despite 3 great days in a row, I wasn’t really feeling it this morning. Not really sure why. The walk out of Vigo was ok as urban walks go, and though as I went uphill the views were good, it was a bit grey and gloomy so maybe that was the issue. And it got a lot worse as it really rained about 11am and I walked on and got soaked for a couple of hours. Got to Redondela and dived into a cafe to dry out. Had some nice food in there. When I went to pay it wouldn’t accept my debit card. It said ‘gambling sites’ are blocked! First time for everything! Was just a normal bar. I always carry two cards, some cash and a spare phone so no problem. Emerged fromthe bar to blue skies and my spirit was hugely lifted and had a lovely walk to Arcade. There was a huge queue outside the Xunta Albergue in Rodendela as I passed. Relatively quiet night at the albergue in Arcade. Just dinner and a few drinks. Lots of faces I have started to recognise and nods become brief chats and then longer chats. Continues to be younger Europeans in groups with a strong female bias.
 
25 Aug. Day 5 Arcade to Comborro

26km / 37k steps

So I have decided to take the ‘variante espiritual’ and it only took a few mins to replan and book the boat from Vilanova to Padron on 27th.

Again it is a lovely walk. Eventually a hot day but cool enough until I got to Pontevedra. I am not too keen on stopping as I actually find it easier to carry on walking but got a late breakfast there. The trail feels quite busy but not too busy. I always stay in dorms and have managed to get rooms easily enough each night through booking . com.

Shortly after Pontevedra I take a left turn onto the ‘espiritual’. It immediately feels different. Much quieter. I guess up to now I have done the big ticket’ caminos - the Frances, the Norte and the Portuguese Costal/Central. All of a sudden this feels more authentic and I realise why many folks here talk of the smaller caminos.

I walked to Comborro, which is one of the nicest places I have been on Camino. It couldn’t have gone any better. After a quick shower I had headed into town and there are lots of lovely bars and restaurants. A chap from the hostel will join me later. My bar has Estrella Galicia and Radler on tap. There is a festival on and I am currently listening to a sound check for a Queen memorial band that are headlining tonight. Apparently they are not on until 2300 which I need to double check it sounds very late. Hope it is earlier as I have 33km to do tomorrow with an early climb. The sound check sounds great so this is unmissable!
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.

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