Burgos - Leon

[Taglia]

I completed the first part of the Camino form SJPDP to Burgos and I am planning to continue next year. I heard comments that the Camino between Burgos and Leon is very flat and boring with not too much to see. My main problem is time, I cannot take many weeks of holidays and I prefer to spend the time to do other Caminos in nicer part of Spain or Portugal. Should I skip this part and start from Leon?

 

[SYates]

Many of us love that 'flat, boring part' to bits and wouldn't skip it if we would be paid for doing so ;-) Buen Camino, SY

 

[AJ]

If you can do it in spring, and take time to smell the roses...

 

[Marion-SantiagoInLove]

Beauty is in the eye of the viewer...
Boring often is "lack of stimuli" and/or "forced-bound-condemned! to be with myself" and/or "not-used-to-contemplative experiences" and/or ...
Opinions are projections of one's experience and reaction to it...

Ever single part of the Camino is nice and beautiful. Everyone reacts to an experience according to their personal history and inner life. Everyone is on the Camino, bu not everyone walks the same kind of "Camino".

Should you skip this part and start form Leon? Yes! No! What is it you seek on the Camino? And remember, the answers you'll get are opinions, and opinion, well... see above Chose according to your own inner wisdom, not according to other's!
Buen Camino, whether on that stretch or an other!

 

[Saint Mike II]

In Sept 2015 I rode my cycle across this brown land - hilly at times; flat at others. Boring never. In fact I will return in May 2017 to walk it - to enjoy the greenness of Spring. Buen Camino!

 

[DanielH]

I walked that stretch in September/October of this year and no way would I recommend someone skip it. It has a lot beauty and is far from "boring" in my opinion.

 

[Sue M]

I have driven across it and walked the rest. I would still like to walk from Burgos to Leon but I wouldn't consider doing it in the nottest part of the year because there is very little shade,

 

[HalfDomeOrBust]

Many of us love that 'flat, boring part' to bits and wouldn't skip it if we would be paid for doing so ;-) Buen Camino, SY

I'm with SY on this. I would not miss this section of the Camino. I break the Camino down to three sections. This one as important and exciting and "NICE" as the others!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I've always lived in forested areas and I did not think that I would like the meseta but I did. We walked in early June and it wasn't too hot for us. I suggest that you keep this section in mind and not discount it so soon. At any rate, if you don't like it you can bus ahead to Leon and continue toward Santiago from there.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I understand the time pressure, especially when a stretch is billed as 'not worth the walk' ...and I've read often in this forum about people skipping this section. I wondered the same thing about the step on the Norte between Bilbao and Portugalate...I walked it but wouldn't again. For me that is because it was often just walking in industrial areas, and even the pretty first part was a walk in a park...little of what drew me to the Camino. Others liked the park and didn't mind the industrial. When I do my next camino, I am adding on this stretch between Burgos and Leon because I wanted to do it the last time but ran out of time. That's because it has many churches, monasteries, and museums I want to see, and what sounds like an amazing albergue. You might consider what appeals the most to you: landscape, history, art, etc and look at a guide/photos to determine what this stretch offers to you in terms of what you want. You could also start out on it, and if it's not what you want, taxi back to Burgos then move on to Leon.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Another thought occurs to me about the reports of skipping this section. I've noticed they tend to follow a pattern: foot complaints/questions beginning in Pamplona, queries about where to buy different shoes or find a podiatrist between Villafranca and Sahagun, then bus/train schedules at Burgos to Leon or Astorga. The meseta may be a victim of walkers shoe choices as much as anything else.

 

[VNwalking]

I prefer to spend the time to do other Caminos in nicer part of Spain or Portugal.

Than do that, @Taglia. There's no sin in walking where you'll enjoy it more, if your intention is to have a nice walk.
But honestly? If you want contemplative time, it's the best part of the Camino. And in its own subtle way the meseta is drop-dead gorgeous. I wouldn't miss it for anything.

 

[momof34man]

I completed the first part of the Camino form SJPDP to Burgos and I am planning to continue next year. I heard comments that the Camino between Burgos and Leon is very flat and boring with not too much to see. My main problem is time, I cannot take many weeks of holidays and I prefer to spend the time to do other Caminos in nicer part of Spain or Portugal. Should I skip this part and start from Leon?

From Burgos to Leon was one of my favorite sections. If you are worried about it being boring and flat, then look at the "roads less traveled" for this section. You can walk near rivers if you would like. One of the first days out of Burgos was NOT flat. Those who have walked probably know what section I am talking about. 18% grade....it was NOT flat. You also miss out on some beautiful villages. One of my most memorable stays was in this section in a place called Puente Fitero. (I have an image I posted in this area on the forum.) We stayed at St. Nicholas, a converted church that only sleeps 12-15 people. Dinner is by candle light. There is a foot washing ceremony. We met a man named Miguel at the property who was the groundskeeper. He invited us to his village and he took my friends and I on a tractor ride. He showed us his wine cellar and his home. He also showed us an albergue that he started (It is now a municipal albergue.) If you ever get a chance to stay at St. Nicholas and meet a man named Miguel...strike up a conversation with him. I am sure he will invite you to his village as well. It was so much fun! There were several other villages that were lovely that I would have missed out on if I skipped it. One of my closest friendships was formed within this section of the camino.

 

[Annette london]

I completed the first part of the Camino form SJPDP to Burgos and I am planning to continue next year. I heard comments that the Camino between Burgos and Leon is very flat and boring with not too much to see. My main problem is time, I cannot take many weeks of holidays and I prefer to spend the time to do other Caminos in nicer part of Spain or Portugal. Should I skip this part and start from Leon?

The Meseta is our favourite part of the Camino
Beautiful scenery for miles
The daisies and poppies in June ---seen for miles are a joy to behold
The wheat in the fields swaying in the wind-- wonderful.
Personally I can never understand why folk find this section boring as its anything but!
Then again,everyone to their own I suppose.
Best wishes to you wherever you start from Annette

 

[markgrubb]

Another thought occurs to me about the reports of skipping this section. I've noticed they tend to follow a pattern: foot complaints/questions beginning in Pamplona, queries about where to buy different shoes or find a podiatrist between Villafranca and Sahagun, then bus/train schedules at Burgos to Leon or Astorga. The meseta may be a victim of walkers shoe choices as much as anything else.

Really? Is this not just stereotyping or can you back this up with real evidence?

For me the Meseta was rather disappointing. I walked it at the start of October and after many dry months it is probably at its least scenic. Miles and miles of wheat stubble fields with the odd sunflower field thrown in, mostly flat but not exclusively so. There is almost none of the old original Meseta and that was a big disappointment for me, instead a fairly modern sterile irrigated chemically treated agricultural land with little of its original self. I love nature and it is there though you just have to eek it out. I counted 30 or so species of birds, that is all and often in concentrated pockets, including 3 species of owl, 10+ sorts of butterflies but a paucity of insects. The few areas with water have concentrated nature. It will be no doubt different in spring with wild flowers and much greenness and be more attractive but is still a shadow of its former long lost diversity. Early morning and late day light would often bring lovely contrast of brown yellow and orange to the landscapes.

There are some nice stops on the Meseta, personally I liked Hontanas and Carrion de Los Condes with the welcoming nuns convent and the area by the river. There are some less inspiring places like Sahagun and Fromista. It is a time for appreciating the big blue skies, thinking and the open spaces. It is pretty easy walking as it is flat and nearly all on wide tracks. So personally there was interest and I made good friendships walking through these big spaces but it is not somewhere I would hurry back to.

So there you go, just one more opinion

 

[Stivandrer]

I started from Burgos and had a very good start up, because there is nothing apparently spectacular about the long straight Calzadas...
But it turned my attention inwards, to rummaging the deep vaults of stowed away thoughts and feelings, to find how I had convieniently stowed awy my experience with cancer, operation and convalescence.
- everything that I had stowed awy now came out and I experienced sadness, grief, and even anger at the long uneventful stretches and came out exhausted but refeshed in Burgos...I had been invited into contemplation..
I would not have missed this stretch for anything in the world ...

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Really? Is this not just stereotyping or can you back this up with real evidence?

I'm sorry if you took my statement as applying to everyone who chose or may choose to skip the meseta, or, it seems, to you in particular. I think a search of the forum over the last few months will turn up plenty of people who announce the need to skip Burgos to Leon for health reasons. More if you go back years, but I'm not interested in doing either--because I said that was one reason some skip, not the only reason some skip. You may have noticed I first said there is a part of the Norte I would not do again, and that no one can tell the OP if skipping is a good idea (clearly some would skip, clearly some wouldn't, just based on the responses). You probably noticed (or not) that I said the OP's best course of action would be to decide what is important in a walk--for you the birds, butterflies, nuns, churches, and fields were described as pleasant yet overall the land that held them was "disappointing" and you "would not hurry back". For others, they loved that section. And for some, they skipped it for health reasons. Try not to see the world so black and white.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

IMHO, if you skip "boring" parts, or the landscape "disappoints" you because of farming methods and the colors in the fields?? You've missed the whole point of the pilgrimage.
The pilgrim adjusts to the path, he doesn't feel bad because the path didn't meet his standards of interesting-ness. This is not a sight-seeing tour.
If you find yourself disliking "uninspiring" towns and dull colors, by all means skip this part and go someplace that better suits your attention span. I hear there's a Disneyland outside Paris.
Please go ahead, have a great time. Leave the Meseta for the people who can appreciate it.

 

[CaptBuddy]

Many of us love that 'flat, boring part' to bits and wouldn't skip it if we would be paid for doing so ;-) Buen Camino, SY

To each his own. I would not skip it. I love it. Will never forget it. Want to go back.

 

[trecile]

I wouldn't skip it either. To me it was just another part of the Camino, and it was nice to have some nice flat walking for a few days. It also made me more appreciative of the varied scenery afterwards.
To me the Camino isn't about any one place. It's hard to describe, it is just a wonderful journey, regardless of where you start or finish.

 

[davkel]

Well, I for one (actually two because I'll be with my partner) am walking this winter EXCLUSIVELY across the meseta.

WHY?

1. Well, my partner has not walked the meseta before and we only have a constricted time to walk.
2. If we're going to walk the Frances at the 'quiet' time we might as well really go for the full isolation.
3. As an Australian, the meseta is very similar in feel to parts of rural Victoria: the big sky, the rolling treeless landscape. My feeling is it can be a bit disorienting for people from places used to their landscape being filled with things to look at.

My experience on the meseta in summer was that it was the place that your camino acquaintances became friends, where the person you were on the camino formed and you became a pilgrim. All the people I know who pulled the pin on their camino, did so on the meseta.

It will be cold, it may be windy, but if the meseta can share something with us, it will be very rewarding.

BTW, we are hoping to do podcasts uploaded from the camino in January as we are travelling. If you're interested to listen to how we're going (we are uploading some preparatory episodes now) go to: http://walk-this-way.madewithopinion.com/

 

[Mel Landaluce]

In Sept 2015 I rode my cycle across this brown land - hilly at times; flat at others. Boring never. In fact I will return in May 2017 to walk it - to enjoy the greenness of Spring. Buen Camino!

My husband and I are actually doing this. We are starting around May 22ish and walking the Norte for our 20th anniversary. We have NO idea what to expect, except what we are reading and researching and of course the move. It would be awesome to run into someone that I may get to know in the next bit with what you have posted...we are so excited and any, I mean ANY suggestions for newbees would be most helpful!

 

[VNwalking]

My husband and I are actually doing this. We are starting around May 22ish and walking the Norte for our 20th anniversary. We have NO idea what to expect, except what we are reading and researching and of course the move. It would be awesome to run into someone that I may get to know in the next bit with what you have posted...we are so excited and any, I mean ANY suggestions for newbees would be most helpful!

Welcome, Mel! You can start by going here. But make sure you have some time on your hands, because there's a ton of information, wisdom, and useful stuff there! Buen Camino! (And you can forget the movie...it's fiction. The truth is other than that--and richer than that.)

 

[whariwharangi]

I completed the first part of the Camino form SJPDP to Burgos and I am planning to continue next year. I heard comments that the Camino between Burgos and Leon is very flat and boring with not too much to see. My main problem is time, I cannot take many weeks of holidays and I prefer to spend the time to do other Caminos in nicer part of Spain or Portugal. Should I skip this part and start from Leon?

If you want to avoid areas that are very flat and boring with not much to see, arguably, the entire camino falls into that category. Its just a walk through bucolic countryside.

It is unfortunate that the Meseta has been marred with ranks of wind turbines (Don Quijote would be cowed by the scale of the task) on every high ridgeline, but otherwise it is singularly different from all of the rest of the camino.

If you want dramatic scenery try Jasper National Park, Torres del Paine National Park, etcetera.

 

[markgrubb]

IMHO, if you skip "boring" parts, or the landscape "disappoints" you because of farming methods and the colors in the fields?? You've missed the whole point of the pilgrimage.
The pilgrim adjusts to the path, he doesn't feel bad because the path didn't meet his standards of interesting-ness. This is not a sight-seeing tour.
If you find yourself disliking "uninspiring" towns and dull colors, by all means skip this part and go someplace that better suits your attention span. I hear there's a Disneyland outside Paris.
Please go ahead, have a great time. Leave the Meseta for the people who can appreciate it.

The pilgrim certainly adjusts to the path, it doesn't stop him or her from having views, sometimes strong ones, on what he sees. I don't think you should meekly accept what you see on your journey and just say it is fine. I have a passionate interest in nature and the environment. Part of my spiritual journey has to do with reconciling modern living with the disconnect from the natural world and how we continue to live whilst respecting the environment. Places like the Meseta do arouse strong feelings in me and walking through it and thinking through the issues helps me. I'll value my time there because I met the most inspiring person one day and will treasure that memory.

 

[Terri B]

Hi, I walked in early autumn this year and enjoyed the Meseta, I loved the dawn light glowing gold on the hay bales stacked in the fields (like the attached photo). The lovely little villages along the way also make the section between these cities well worth the effort.

 

[november_moon]

I skipped that last couple days of the Meseta. I enjoyed the first few days, but after a few more days, I'd definitely had enough. And that was in Spring with wildflowers and green fields. I loved other parts - up to the Iron Cross, O Cebreiro, all through Galicia, etc. But the Meseta was seriously repetative.

If that makes me "less" of a pilgrim in anyone's eyes, so be it. Those people arent on my journey.

 

[Cynthia Knapp]

Many of us love that 'flat, boring part' to bits and wouldn't skip it if we would be paid for doing so ;-) Buen Camino, SY

I'm with you, SYate! I absolutely loved it!

 

[davkel]

I skipped that last couple days of the Meseta. I enjoyed the first few days, but after a few more days, I'd definitely had enough. And that was in Spring with wildflowers and green fields. I loved other parts - up to the Iron Cross, O Cebreiro, all through Galicia, etc. But the Meseta was seriously repetative.

If that makes me "less" of a pilgrim in anyone's eyes, so be it. Those people arent on my journey.

If you were going to miss any day, that last one into Leon would be it, I admit. I had been struggling with food poisoning picked up in Sahagun (never have a re-heated bocadillo that has some unseen prawn in it...), but I really regretted not taking a cab from Mansilla.

As for being 'less of a pilgrim'... I would consider anyone who thought that to be less of a pilgrim for thinking it...

 

[Taglia]

Thanks for all the advises. I am not really sure if I am a pilgrim, hiker, tourist or maybe a mix of all three.

Probably I will take this part of the Camino without planning too much, I will book a flight to Madrid and a return from Santiago 9/10 days later and take decisions when I am there based on mood, weather, physical condition, … .

 

[Guidersue]

I completed the first part of the Camino form SJPDP to Burgos and I am planning to continue next year. I heard comments that the Camino between Burgos and Leon is very flat and boring with not too much to see. My main problem is time, I cannot take many weeks of holidays and I prefer to spend the time to do other Caminos in nicer part of Spain or Portugal. Should I skip this part and start from Leon?

Thanks for all the advises. I am not really sure if I am a pilgrim, hiker, tourist or maybe a mix of all three.

Probably I will take this part of the Camino without planning too much, I will book a flight to Madrid and a return from Santiago 9/10 days later and take decisions when I am there based on mood, weather, physical condition, … .

I heard the meseta was long and boring as well, but I really enjoyed the walk. There were other parts that I wondered why I was walking - through forests, along highways, but in retrospect it's all an amazing experience.
If you find it's not working for you - get a taxi to the next town, take it as it comes. I was surprised at some of the experiences I enjoyed that I think I had prejudged.

 

[DurhamParish]

I completed the first part of the Camino form SJPDP to Burgos and I am planning to continue next year. I heard comments that the Camino between Burgos and Leon is very flat and boring with not too much to see. My main problem is time, I cannot take many weeks of holidays and I prefer to spend the time to do other Caminos in nicer part of Spain or Portugal. Should I skip this part and start from Leon?

I may get skewered by others on here, but I have to disagree somewhat. Although I DO ENJOY walking the Meseta, IF I were constrained by time I WOULD SKIP IT and walk from Leon (or if time is really tight, Astorga). You could do the Meseta another time, if the opportunity presented itself.

 

[HalfDomeOrBust]

I may get skewered by others on here, but I have to disagree somewhat. Although I DO ENJOY walking the Meseta, IF I were constrained by time I WOULD SKIP IT and walk from Leon (or if time is really tight, Astorga). You could do the Meseta another time, if the opportunity presented itself.

There will be no skewering on here Durham.... If we were constrained by time and only had one day for thy Camino we would pick our favorite and do that section missing the Meseta and the rest of the Camino altogether. Not everyone can get the time to do the complete Camino (whatever that is?)

 

[Kanga]

My favourite part of walking The Camino is walking a camino. Full stop.

 

[robert hailwood]

I completed the first part of the Camino form SJPDP to Burgos and I am planning to continue next year. I heard comments that the Camino between Burgos and Leon is very flat and boring with not too much to see. My main problem is time, I cannot take many weeks of holidays and I prefer to spend the time to do other Caminos in nicer part of Spain or Portugal. Should I skip this part and start from Leon?

Walking the less visually stimulating part that you describe has less distractions to your walking meditation and may allow your awareness to expand and reveal how precious is this earth that you are crossing and how precious you are too.

 

[HalfDomeOrBust]

My favourite part of walking The Camino is walking a camino. Full stop.

My first Camino I was able to do that---go the entire way. The subsequent ones I was not able to get away for the time it took. All of my Caminos were great in there own different ways, but that first one, well it was awesome.....

 

[CaminoDebrita]

Hi, I walked in early autumn this year and enjoyed the Meseta, I loved the dawn light glowing gold on the hay bales stacked in the fields (like the attached photo). The lovely little villages along the way also make the section between these cities well worth the effort.

Great photo, Terri B.

I personally love the meseta. I'm a solo walker, and it makes me feel very small and insignificant in the very grand, very beautiful scheme of the Camino de Santiago. I love the feeling of walking across a large landscape, as the sun moves from east to west.

And I love the look of cloud shadows moving across the earth.

I love the way a pilgrim looks way ahead of me, or way behind. And I love knowing who that pilgrim is, or recognizing his or her gait, rain gear, pack, what-have-you.

I love seeing a town appear in my view, and then considering what I may have to sustain my energy--whether that be a cafe con leche, a fresh orange juice, a pan de chocolate, or a beer (on a hot day, a beer).

 

[leicoppes]

Personal I would not skip the Meseta but I also would not skip a meter of the camino.It is just what makes the camino so beautiful.In 2013 I walked the CF and was a little afraid from the meseta,but it was great and surely not boring.

 

[Olivares]

I found the people along the Meseta were the most kind, generous, friendly, and the most genuinely protective of the Camino and the Pilgrims. Having walked the Meseta twice there is no way I would skip it. Seriously.

 

[Deleted member 12253]

Let's get real. I am walking the Camino. I walk the interesting bits. How do you know what's around the corner. Mesete not my favourite but I had the best ever Night Walk from carrion. Magic nigh , I still dream about that night, Moon , stars strange noises.

 

[alexwalker]

Many of us love that 'flat, boring part' to bits and wouldn't skip it if we would be paid for doing so ;-) Buen Camino, SY

Agree. Period.

 

[november_moon]

Thanks for all the advises. I am not really sure if I am a pilgrim, hiker, tourist or maybe a mix of all three.

You are what you are. Some people like the labels, but labels don't really matter. You are going on a pilgrimage, so IMHO, that makes you a pilgrim - whether you walk every step from SJPP to Santiago, walk part of the route, take a bus train or taxi sometimes - you are a pilgrim. Others have different criteria. Either way, you are going on your journey, and your journey will be unique. It doesn't matter how others categorize you. My husband and I walked side by side for 490km of the Camino Frances - we saw the same stuff, met the same people, slept in the same places, ate the same food, were together for almost 24 hours out of every day for weeks - but our journeys were different. Much of your journey will take place inside your own head, so in that regard, what you call yourself has some influence on your journey.

 

[Nanc]

One of the advantages of all the naysayers about the Meseta, is that my expectations were quite low.
So it was with true delight that I saw how UN-flat it was. There were always undulating slopes to climb. How, despite the later season of September, with all the straw and hay cut, the texture of the land was so varied. That, despite the reputation of a barren area, there were ALWAYS clusters of trees or bushes rimming fields, tan cut fields butting hillsides of green. Every non-flat non-boring mile was an inexpected surprise.
So keeping saying how blaugh it is , but then walk it, and the contrast of expectation to reality will all the more beautiful
Just one more humble opinion
Nanc

 

[VNwalking]

Those of you who skip the meseta make it all the quieter for those of us who love it.
By all means, do go ahead! Thank you.

 

[Mark Lee]

One of the advantages of all the naysayers about the Meseta, is that my expectations were quite low.
So it was with true delight that I saw how UN-flat it was. There were always undulating slopes to climb. How, despite the later season of September, with all the straw and hay cut, the texture of the land was so varied. That, despite the reputation of a barren area, there were ALWAYS clusters of trees or bushes rimming fields, tan cut fields butting hillsides of green. Every non-flat non-boring mile was an inexpected surprise.
So keeping saying how blaugh it is , but then walk it, and the contrast of expectation to reality will all the more beautiful
Just one more humble opinion
Nanc

Unfortunately so much is written about that section of the CF that is just so untrue. So much poetic license in its description. Making it something it's not for the sake of a good story or material for a blog.

 

[AJ]

IF I were constrained by time I WOULD SKIP IT and walk from Leon (or if time is really tight, Astorga). You could do the Meseta another time, if the opportunity presented itself.

So would I.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

From Burgos to Leon was one of my favorite sections. If you are worried about it being boring and flat, then look at the "roads less traveled" for this section. You can walk near rivers if you would like. One of the first days out of Burgos was NOT flat.

Yes indeed. I found the section from Burgos to Fromista inspiring. Flat and boring? Come on.

 

[MTtoCamino]

I found the entire stretch Sjpdp to the ocean incredible. The Meseta for me reminded me the most of home,the vast open spaces that make a person feel free. I think the walk across in winter will give a true sense of understanding of self reliance.

 

[eviemonkey]

I completed the first part of the Camino form SJPDP to Burgos and I am planning to continue next year. I heard comments that the Camino between Burgos and Leon is very flat and boring with not too much to see. My main problem is time, I cannot take many weeks of holidays and I prefer to spend the time to do other Caminos in nicer part of Spain or Portugal. Should I skip this part and start from Leon?

Hi, I thoroughly enjoyed the 'meseta' for the most part. The day's walk into Hontanas is a particular highlight of mine, whilst the climb outside Castrojeriz offers one of the most spectacular vistas on the entire walk. The sunrises and sunsets felt even more memorable on this stretch of the camino than everywhere else.

I wouldn't say it was boring, anything but. The camaraderie of my camino family felt really strong during this time. I think the bonds formed during the meseta sustained us until the end.

But hand on heart, in my opinion, if time is a primary consideration and you don't have a week available I would say the later walks beyond Leon have more to offer. The scenery is more varied, although not immediately and the walks into Villar de Mazarife and Astorga will give you a sense of what walking between Burgos to Leon was like. The towns and little villages after Leon were more interesting to me as well.

It comes down to personal preferences, I guess. Me personally, I'd always want to do a 'complete' Camino Frances, so I'd have to join the dots between Burgos and Leon for my own peace of mind. But again it is easy for me to say that as I wouldn't as much interest in other caminos elsewhere. If you are attracted by the idea of walking in other parts of Spain and Portugal, it becomes more difficult again when time is an issue.

 

[Stivandrer]

- " It’s a lang road that’s no goat a turnin."
(goat = got)

Translation:
Don’t lose heart in dark times, things can’t keep going in the same direction forever.

(http://www.bbcamerica.com/anglophenia/2014/09/scottish-sayings-will-get-through-life)