LIVE from the Camino BP on the Ebro June 2021

[SabsP]

Thanks, it helped me pushing forward today as I desperately looked for accomodation. I told myself: if I don't find anything, it will at least be a funny story to share on the Forum !

So happy that Abuela took you in! What a day.

I personally don't think those construction workers are over-sensitive but Covid hit Spain so profoundly that it left its mark on many people.
Most probably they consider themselves as their own social bubble now.

Good luck tomorrow for Tudela. Gorgeous town!

 

[NorthernLight]

That poor donkey ... all ready to pose pretty and instead stuck with an ugly-mug-driver’s licence-style photo.

 

[peregrina2000]

I remember Gronze or Guidebook saying something about a train station, yes. But I also knew the Camino would follow the river. So I walked back the same way I came the day before and continued along the river walk. There were arrows everywhere, and granite-like mojones with the shell regularly along the way. So they must have brushed up the waymarking in recent years.

Did you get rid of the bed bugs after Zaragoza??

Yup. No more bugs after that. And I know you’re going on the Ebro after Gallur but I have to say the Castellano-Aragones is ESTUPENDO. So put it on your list!

 

[palmah]

Instead of BP you should be TP - Tough Pilgrim. An extra 20 km - wow......awesome. Hope your next stage is a breeze and accommodation aplenty at your next destination!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 13: Mallén - Tudela, 26 kms

Mallén is only a few kms from the region of Navarra, that I entered early this morning. The first town of today, Cortes, lies just at the border.

After Cortes... Wow. An endless, straight road next to the railway with pig farms scattered everywhere. Do pigs want to be let out in the morning as some dogs do; the ones that hear your footsteps and start howling? Because those piggies made some frightening noises when I walked by. Either they were signalling to me that they wanted to be let out, or someone was making jamón serrano in there. Well, at least half of the farms seemed to be up and running. The other half were in ruins with "Se vende" scribbled all over the crumbling walls. The scenery was depressing.

Halfway to Ribaforada the Camino was obstructed by a farm/factory and closed gates. I started to backtrack, but could see on Google Maps that whatever I did would result in a large detour. The Camino ought to continue on the other side of the property... So I pushed through the bushes to my left and walked next to the railroad to bypass the obstacle. After a few hundred meters I was back on the Camino again. I don't think anyone should walk as close to the train tracks as I did, so the Asociación must do something about this. Or are the gates normally open? I don't know.

Before Ribaforada there is a polígono industrial and the arrows take you for a zig-zaggy sightseeing amongst the factories. I was exasperated by the stupidity of it all. But I think this is another place where the Camino is obstructed in some way. Because it soon returned next to the railroad again, straight forward. It took me forever to reach Ribaforada.

After that, a much nicer walk following the imperial canal towards El Bocal, the weir that was constructed to regulate the canal. The village was created in the XVIII century and looks really nice... on Wikipedia. I couldn't see it for myself. Because at El Bocal I found the second closed gate for the day. I could spot the arrows continuing amongst the historic buildings, but the place only opens to public three days a week. Luckily there are arrows for the remaining four days as well: you can cross the bridge, and the Camino continues on the other side of the canal.

In Tudela I stay at the Posada San Marcial, 36 euros. Shared bathroom, but I seem to be the only one staying tonight so I will be sharing it with myself then. There is a proper kitchen, with a fridge to cool down my beverages, and a quiet terrace. I have a room in the attic, very cosy under the low roof, and views of the neighborhood. Tudela is nice, but... Zaragoza is the best, so far. Touristy pictures of Tudela coming up below!

 

[VNwalking]

Brava to Abuela!
I'm impressed. You're moving right along, already in Tudela. It sounds like getting there was a series of head-scratchers. JP, just ahead of you, didn't mention that at all, so who knows? Maybe wrong day, wrong time?

And it looks gorgeous, especially that amazing portico.
Turns out it's famous:

CATEDRAL TUDELA

Portada del Juicio de la catedral de Tudela - Cátedra de Patrimonio y Arte Navarro

www.unav.edu

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Brava to Abuela!
I'm impressed. You're moving right along, already in Tudela. It sounds like getting there was a series of head-scratchers. JP, just ahead of you, didn't mention that at all, so who knows? Maybe wrong day, wrong time?

And it looks gorgeous, especially that amazing portico.
Turns out it's famous:

CATEDRAL TUDELA

Portada del Juicio de la catedral de Tudela - Cátedra de Patrimonio y Arte Navarro

www.unav.edu

Wow, I have read the article about the portico now, and zoomed in on my pictures (I have two of the portico). Clearly the right side of the portico is dedicated to Hell; I didn't notice until now! Funny figures. I could follow the story of my life right there on the wall...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 14: Tudela - Alfaro, 24 kms

The mosquitos were out again this morning, hungrier than ever. I walked in the middle of the road (there was almost no traffic) to keep the distance to the vegetation and to the soggy ditches around me. Soon the railway would join me, just like yesterday.

At a sign "Sotos de Ebro", the arrows pointed away from the carretera. Guidebook says that one can also stay on the asphalt which shortens the stage a bit. Anyway, my intention was to walk next to the river. But as soon as I veered off and stepped onto the dirt road amongst the crops, the mosquitos multiplied in numbers. I walked about 50 mtrs, then I was chased back to the carretera. So it was just me and the railway for about 20 kms all the way to Castejón. I am sure I missed out on a ton of bucolic beauty back there, but I couldn't bear the thought of having to flee from mosquitos for several kms. Of course I could have bought something against insects in Tudela, but it didn't cross my mind...

I was really hungry when I reached Castejón. I found a bar where I could reload for the remaining five kms to Alfaro. Alfaro is "Storks' Paradise" as advertised at the entrance to town!

With new energy I reached Storkville in no time, at least two hours before my hostal would be ready for me. Sure, I know there is an albergue in town. But who can resist the luxury of Hotel HM Alfaro, 39 euros? Not me!

Well, this luxury wouldn't be granted to me before 2 o'clock so I decided to kill a few hours in the cafés in the town center. The storks had settled on the roof of the Colegiata, the cathedral-like church at the main square. I saw a sign "Mirador de las cigüeñas" and decided to see where it would lead me. I walked the stairs near the Colegiata, until I got almost at the same level and pretty near the nests on the roof: pictures abound below. I sat down in the shadow for a long time watching the storks circling the church towers, going in for landning, or taking off... It was like the Barajas airport up there. According to the information panel, this church has the world record with the largest number of storks concentrated to one building! There was also a Centro de interpretación across the square: I decided to go there in the afternoon.

So the second to last picture is from the Stork Museum: life cycle, habitat, migration routes, connection to the Ebro... I feel I am a stork expert now. The best thing was the cameras on the roof of the church. They film the nests in real time and at close range! Finally a good look at the babies! They have become pretty big by this time of year but they are just not yet ready to fly, the woman at the information desk explained to me. I bet this museum gets popular when the eggs hatch, and you can watch it on the screens...!

Tomorrow a pretty short stage again, to a large town: Calahorra! With or without storks!

I leave you with the last picture below: an enigmatic poem on the way up to the Mirador de las cigüeñas. An ode to the storks...?

Good Night!

 

[SabsP]

Yeah! Alfaro is a nice town. Although when I was there it was a Sunday and quieter than quiet.
Hope the hostal is clean and decent? Just read some recent revieuws and the opinions seem to vary. Anyway, when I stayed there it was very acceptable and staff was extremely helpful.

Really like the poem.

 

[NorthernLight]

Do they have a stork cam streaming on the internet?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Do they have a stork cam streaming on the internet?

Good question. For what I know, the cams are only connected to the museum/Centre. I could look it up right now... But I need to sleep ! Otherwise I will be watching the storks all night!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Yeah! Alfaro is a nice town. Although when I was there it was a Sunday and quieter than quiet.
Hope the hostal is clean and decent? Just read some recent revieuws and the opinions seem to vary. Anyway, when I stayed there it was very acceptable and staff was extremely helpful.

Really like the poem.

Hostal is ok! Very clean, and yes they are very helpful.

Yes the poem makes you think... I liked it!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 15: Alfaro - Calahorra, 27 kms

After about one km in the industrial suburbs of Alfaro, the Camino takes you out to the vinyards. Oh, I forgot to tell you that I am in the region of Rioja now. So there should be vineyards everywhere. Some of them were drenched in water: it looked more like the rice paddies from around Deltebre. Strangely, no mosquitos had emerged from the puddles.

Ever since I entered Rioja, people have been wishing me Buen Camino. A jogger who ran past me this morning asked me to remember him when I got to Santiago... I took a mental note of that.

After 12 kms I was in Rincón de Soto, where storks had seiged the church tower just like they had in Alfaro. Maybe these are the suburbs of Storkville.

The moment you leave Rincón de Soto, you can see Calahorra in the distance. Just 13 kms away... Flat country road amongst the vineyards and their irrigation canals. Everything looks greener now: there are flowers along the road, and the hills/mountains in the horizon look like there is actually something growing on them; not like the bare rocks of the south.

The Camino sneaks by the cathedral of Calahorra, strangely placed in the outskirts of town instead of in the center. The door was open... It was so cool in there. But also very somber: the place was badly lit for being a cathedral. My photos didn't turn out as I wanted.

Then I continued for a slog through town, uphill of course, to reach the hotel Ciudad de Calahorra, 46 euros. It got hotter and hotter for every step. There is a cheaper pensión option, but without air conditioner... I gonna need it now that temperatures are on the rise. Which worries me considering that the albergue is the only option tomorrow in Alcanadre. I haven't called the albergue for tomorrow yet, but with my usual luck I am sure they won't answer!

I went to the old town in Calahorra to see two more churches: Santiago (last picture below) and San Andrés. The church of Santiago fronts a beautiful square, I'll give it that. But it was even darker inside than in the cathedral. Impossible to take pictures, or even see the interior clearly. As for the church of San Andrés, I didn't even enter because it looked sooo depressing. Even the storks shun it!

Tomorrow is a really short stage of 20 kms to Alcanadre, and then a whammy of 36 to Logroño, according to the Guidebook. Gronze says 32 kms, which sounds better. I am closing in on the Camino Francés!

 

[VNwalking]

Wow. Storks storks storks.
It kinda makes up for the flat flat flat and mozzies mozzies mozzies. (The mozzies feed the frogs, who feed the storks, so that abundance makes total sense.)

Since I can't walk I find myself doing vicarious planning, wondering how you'll get to the Olvidado (Sorry...it is a pain to have a backseat driver... )

But in case it is useful, here are the options that immediately spring to mind:
1) Frances to Santo Domingo, then:
Santo Domingo-Haro (backwards on the VI)
Haro-Miranda de Ebro (GR99)
MdE-onwards via Frias, etc. (Viejo->Olvidado)

2) Frances to Santo Domingo, then:
Santo Domingo-Haro (backwards on the VI)
Haro-Pancorbo (Off piste road walking)
Pancorbo-Ona or Pazo de la Sal (ditto)
Ona or Pazo de la Sal-Quintanilla de Valdevielso (ditto)
QdV onwards on Viejo/Olvidado

3) Frances to Leon, Leon to La Robla (San Salvador), onwards via Olvidado

If you chose the Frances but it gets to you, there's a route from Fromista to Miranda de Ebro, onwards on the Viejo.
Or...
It's a straight shot from Carrion to Guardo via Saldana (roughly 53 kms altogether)
Or...
From Sahagun to Puente Almuhey via Almanza (roughly 46 kms altogether)

There are all sorts of possibilities from the meseta northwards:


Buen camino, BP however you go!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Currently in Alcanadre, no albergue or other accomodation. The people in the bar La Unión are telling me there is an albergue in the next pueblo: Arrúbal. But that is 13 kms from here. At least I am getting closer to Logroño...

 

[SabsP]

Currently in Alcanadre, no albergue or other accomodation. The people in the bar La Unión are telling me there is an albergue in the next pueblo: Arrúbal. But that is 13 kms from here. At least I am getting closer to Logroño...

Ah so sorry to hear! You might already have the link but here it is again.

Arrubal: Albergue municipal "SERVANDO ARGAIZ"

All the best!

 

[VNwalking]

I see la Casa Azul de Raymonm y la Asun
as a place to stay there?
In Alcanadre.

 

[SabsP]

I see la Casa Azul de Raymonm y la Asun
as a place to stay there?
In Alcanadre.
View attachment 103904

Seems to be fully booked. Saw it yesterday as a possible choice.

 

[VNwalking]

Maybe ask also if there is anything in Lodosa. It's backtracking a bit and on the other side of the river, but much closer. I don't see anything, but someone closer at hand might know better.

 

[SabsP]

Maybe ask also if there is anything in Lodosa. It's backtracking a bit and on the other side of the river, but much closer. I don't see anything, but someone closer at hand might know better.

Hostal Marzo in Lodosa.

Hostal Restaurante Marzo -Tu restaurante en Lodosa- | Lista de precios Hostal

hrmarzo.com

HOSTAL RESTAURANTE MARZO - Ayuntamiento de Lodosa

● Especialidad en verduras frescas y productos de la tierra. ● Tiene 14 habitaciones. ● Dirección: Calle Ancha 24 CP 31580 Lodosa (Navarra) ● Teléfono: 948 69 30 52 / 948 69 40 38 ● Fax: 948 69 40 38…

www.lodosa.es

 

[peregrina2000]

The storks had settled on the roof of the Colegiata, the cathedral-like church at the main square.

I have friends who live in a small town outside of Madrid and they have had huge stork problems. The nests weigh between 200 and 400 kilos. One had to be removed from the church tower because of the danger it posed.

I wonder if those metal stands that the nests are perched on in your pictures help with that, but I don’t see how it would.

Retiran un nido de cigüeña de un centro de salud por riesgo de caída - Zona Retiro -

Año tras año, la misma pareja de cigüeñas vuelve al mismo nido para criar y en su afán por conseguir el mejor lugar para sus cigoñinos coloca y coloca palos hasta alcanzar grandes nidos de 2 metros de diámetro y mucho peso, generalmente de 200 y 400 kilogramos, aunque en ocasiones pueden a...

zonaretiro.com

Loving your posts as always, BP!

 

[VNwalking]

Also:

Description: El albergue-hostal Villa Lodosa es propiedad de los hermanos Zubiri Castillo, Juan Pedro, Alberto, Mari y Eduardo. La familia (propietaria de Talleres Zubiri de Peralta) adquirió un chalé de 800 m2 , construido en 1991 y que está situado en el número 147

 

[NorthernLight]

I wonder if all those storks on nests presages a baby boom...

 

[AlanSykes]

Currently in Alcanadre, no albergue or other accomodation. The people in the bar La Unión are telling me there is an albergue in the next pueblo: Arrúbal. But that is 13 kms from here. At least I am getting closer to Logroño...

I am so sorry to hear the albergue in Alcanadre is closed. It is a 5* luxury one, and the kind alcaldesa came round in the evening and opened up the church for me. It`s not that exciting, but the hexagonal tower (complete with storks` nest, claro) was fun, and the interior included a glorious ?12th century Romanesque font from an earlier church on the site. Some claim it was near Alcanadre that Don Quixote and Sancho Panza first saw the Ebro, "y el verle fue de gran gusto a don Quijote, porque contempló y miró en él la amenidad de sus riberas, la claridad de sus aguas, el sosiego de su curso y la abundancia de sus líquidos cristales..."

There are all sorts of possibilities from the meseta northwards:

I headed north up the canal de Castilla, passing crayfish-mad Herrera de Pisuerga and joining the Olvidado at lovely (biscuit-scented) Aguilar del Campoo.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Ah so sorry to hear! You might already have the link but here it is again.

Drop your napolitanas and stop searching! I am inside the municipal albergue in Arrúbal now! Thanks SabineP: had I read your post before leaving Alcanadre, it would have reassured me... But I had no idea about the status of the albergue when I got to Arrúbal, so it was a pleasant surprise that it was open!

I see la Casa Azul de Raymonm y la Asun
as a place to stay there?
In Alcanadre.

The owners of the bar in Alcanadre told me about a Casa rural, that must be it? And I passed it on my way out of Alcanadre, I think. The people in the bar told me it was full. But yes, that could also be an option in Alcanadre.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Maybe ask also if there is anything in Lodosa. It's backtracking a bit and on the other side of the river, but much closer. I don't see anything, but someone closer at hand might know better.

I should have read this sooner as well. Lodosa looks nice on the map, with mouth-watering facilities for a hungry pilgrim. And yes, I was so close to Lodosa...! Well, I am in Arrúbar now so it all turned out well in the end.

But what a day! I'll tell ya all about it...

 

[SabsP]

Great you made it! Oof!
Too late now but I sent you a pm about that Casa Azul yesterday but seems you are perfectly settled in Arrubal now.
What a stellar place that albergue seems to be.

Well at least it will be a short day tomorrow into Logroño...

 

[AlanSykes]

Ooops, sorry, I see from my notes that the 5* albergue (arguably the best between the Mediterranean and Logroño, and only 5€) was at Arrúbal, not Alcanadre, as was the hexagonal church tower and the font.

 

[SabsP]

Ooops, sorry, I see from my notes that the 5* albergue (arguably the best between the Mediterranean and Logroño, and only 5€) was at Arrúbal, not Alcanadre, as was the hexagonal church tower and the font.

Obviously why it is mentioned in websites on architecture!

https://www.coar.es/arquitectura-rioja/

| Camino de Santiago. Guía definitiva: etapas, albergues, rutas

La Editorial Buen Camino trabaja en informar al futuro peregrino del Camino de Santiago mediante guías especializadas, apps y webs.

www.editorialbuencamino.com

You see where the money is in la Rioja!

 

[VNwalking]

Welll...that's a relief.
And all's well that ends well.
Better than Lodosa in the end, and I hope the food situation is just as satisfactory.
I'll read the tale in the morning.
Rest well, BP!
And buen camino tomorrow.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 16: Calahorra - Arrúbal, 33 kms

I thought the whammy would be tomorrow, not today! But when I got to Alcanadre after 20 kms, the people in the bar Unión told me the albergue wasn't open. (The bar has the keys to the albergue, according to a website I found.) There is a casa rural, but full. There was a group of Polish people in the bar who would attend a jazz festival of some sort... A festival in Alcanadre or in other places in the area I don't know. But I heavily suspected them of having seiged the casa rural.

I posted about the lack of accomodation in this thread, and got a plethora of options from fellow forum members... that I forgot to check. So I prepared myself to walk 13 kms further to Arrúbal. It was midday when I left Alcanadre and increasingly hot, so I armed myself with a café con leche in the bar; a sandwich, water bottles, soda... and sun lotion. I almost never put on sun lotion. It is messy, it takes time, it is boring... I tell you: when I put on sun lotion, things are about to go d o w n .

I started marching. Soon I was sure I was on the wrong track, because there are many junctions in the vineyards and the arrows disappeared. I didn't backtrack, but was happy as long as Google Maps reduced the distance between me and Arrúbal. At one point I chose a random road to my right, since I thought I was deviating too much from the Ebro. I huffed and puffed up a hill... And got a fantastic reward: a view of the Ebro and of the upcoming pueblos from above. The descent was brutal though. Pebbles so large that your shoes have no grip on them in the slopes. I can't see Abuela and friends marching down this road without heavy losses, but who am I to judge.

All the time the falcons circled around me; see the pictures with the peculiar cliffs where I presume they hang around. I was happy to have done a detour that gave me such nice views. When I reached the Ermita (white building in the pictures), I knew I was back on track. But when I checked with the Guidebook later... it was the Camino all the time?! This is a great mystery since I was walking whithout the arrows for at least an hour. I would like previous E-bros to take a look at my pictures (nr 5 - 9 below) to see if they recognize these spots. I do understand if this is the official Camino: these were the best views on the whole Ruta del Ebro if you ask me.

After the Ermita you walk next to the peculiar cliffs which look like they come from another planet (last picture). Then you can choose to cross the railroad to get closer to the Ebro. I thought I would get glimpses of the river and walk in the shadow for a while. But I couldn't see the river through the vegetation, and the foliage didn't provide much shadow.

It was a slog to get to Arrúbal, since I had planned to walk 20 kms, not 33! In the bar Las Palmeras I devoured one Coca-Cola after another. I couldn't believe my ears when the woman in charge said there was an albergue in town. I had to find the Mayor though to get hold of the keys. But before I found her, she found me. My hiking outfit had given me away. She swiftly showed me the albergue and handed me the keys.

The albergue is an annex to the little church at the end of town. Alan wrote (above) that it is a five-star-place, and it is certainly true. Although I haven't stayed in a municipal albergue in ages, so I have little to compare with. Only 5 euros!! A steal any day of the week! I can't remember the last time I spent so little on accomodation. Oh, that would be the sports hall in Campillo de Altobuey on the Camino de la Lana. And they have ghosts included. Let's see if Arrúbal can compete with that.

Tomorrow is a short stage to Logroño (if nothing unexpected happens). In Logroño I can go from Stork Watching to another one of my favorite sports: Pilgrim Watching! I wonder if there will be an assembly line of pilgrims moving in on the Camino Francés, or if they haven't reach pre-pandemic numbers yet.

No mega-municipal albergue with 100 plazas for me in Logroño, oh no. I found a little hostal for tomorrow, a stone's throw away from the bus station. Yes, the bus station! I have decided to postpone the Camino Olvidado to another year, and aim straight for Ponferrada and the Camino de Invierno. I guess one can go there by bus, or train. We'll see.

Last entry coming up tomorrow!

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, I have been reading that people were having problems on the Olvidado in terms of accommodation. I have no doubt you would have been fine, though, but I’m looking forward to reading about your Invierno. I hope you will keep on posting live! It’ll be interesting to see if you see changes from when you walked a few years ago.

Buen camino — are you going to make time for tapas in Logroño? I remember on my very first Camino Francés, we spent several hours on that street (Calle Laurel, maybe?). My walkikng buddy had a great idea. We first went to the famous place that has those mushrooms with little shrimp on top. And she then told the bartender — we came to this place becase we’ve read it has the best tapas in Logroño. And since we are only going to be here for one night we need some help. Because now we want to go to the second best place, what would you recommend? We did that three or four times and had some really good tapas. But since it was 21 years ago, I’m lucky I can remember the mushrooms with the little shrimp.

 

[VNwalking]

I have decided to postpone the Camino Olvidado to another year, and aim straight for Ponferrada and the Camino de Invierno. I guess one can go there by bus, or train. We'll see.

Train, train!!!
I did that a few years ago and it was a stupendous journey:
Logroño-Haro-MdEbro-Pancorbo-Burgos...then on towards Santiago. Wow, wow, wow. (Sit on the right side of the train for the Pancorbo part...you can wave to your ghost of Via de Bayona past...)

 

[NorthernLight]

Train, train!!!
I did that a few years ago and it was a stupendous journey:
Logroño-Haro-MdEbro-Pancorbo-Burgos...then on towards Santiago. Wow, wow, wow. (Sit on the right side of the train for the Pancorbo part...you can wave to your ghost of Via de Bayona past...)

The Logroño to Burgos bus would likely be simpler; am I detecting a hint that the train ride is visually stunning?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 17: Arrúbal- Logroño, 19 kms

I am not used to being alone in such a large, empty building as a municipal albergue. It was kind of spooky. I was waiting for the usual group of cyclists to burst into the dorm with their headlamps at 11:30, but nothing happened. I decided to sleep in (until 06:00 in the morning; a deadly sin) since I only had about 19 kms to walk today.

The Camino continues from the church where the albergue is located. There are only 4 easy kms to the next pueblo: Agoncillo (first picture). But no bars were open since it was early, and Sunday morning.

After Agoncillo there is conflicting waymarking. An arrow points under the bridge, while a modern sign (the "traffic sign"; blue background, the silhouette of a pilgrim...) urges you to turn to the right, next to the train tracks. I followed the modern sign, which was perhaps not a good idea. It took me for a stroll near the airport of Logroño, then back over the train tracks. I was walking into the small town of Recajo on the highway N-232 where the cars angrily honked at me to get out of the way. This irritated me since there were modern Camino signs everywhere along the road; I was not out of place. But when the signs wanted me to walk all the way into Logroño on this evergrowing highway for the remaining 8 kms, I had enough and jumped over to the smaller carretera de Zaragoza. There was almost no traffic on a Sunday morning.

I passed three massive bodegas on my way into Logroño. I had to take a picture of the first one (second picture). It looks like a spaceship has landed in the vineyards. Or is it a missing piece of Monte do Gozo?

I aimed for the suburb of Varea where I thought I would find the arrows again. They reappeared, and took me on a river walk, like in Zaragoza, all the way into Logroño. It is the Ruta del Ebro after all so I guess they want you to be glued to the river until the bitter end.

When I approached the bridge Puente de Piedra that comes from the Camino Francés, I spotted two pilgrims who were just crossing. I thought there would be more after them, but they were the only ones. They sneaked into an albergue (there is one in every corner here; how is that possible!?) while I continued along the Camino Francés for a while. I went to the church of Santiago and saw the pilgrims' fountain (picture nr 5). The church was open, but the inside didn't look much to me.

I haven't been to Logroño for twelve years, on my first Camino. But I hardly remember anything of what the city looks like. I think there are less pilgrims now though. Of course there are a lot of foreigners at the plaza in front of the cathedral, whom I presume are pilgrims who have slipped into something more comfortable in the afternoon. But there were much more of them last time I was here.

I stay in Pensión Travesia, 29 euros, in a street stuffed with people and tapas bars. The building and the stairs look like they have not been renovated since the Civil War, but the inside is super clean and modern.

I take the bus to Ponferrada at 2 am tonight (gasp) and arrive 8:30 in the morning. That gives me a whole day to rest in Ponferrada and to prepare for the Camino de Invierno. I don't think I will write about the Invierno every day though. I will probably do a summary afterwards, and focus on things that Laurie might want to change or add to the Invierno Forum guide.

It feels weird to have completed La Ruta del Ebro! I will make a summary of this one as well, for those who think about walking it in the future but don't have time to read through my day-to-day ramblings...! I will be back!

/BP

 

[SabsP]

Congratulations! It has been such a joy following you.
The daily distances you covered were impressive. I am sure I am not the only one here who admires your writing style and humour.

You stay at Calle Laurel! You lucky duck! You " must " go to Bar Angel next door and have a pintxo ( mushrooms ). Go!

Rest well! Enjoy the busride.

Looking forward to your updates.

Buen Camino!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Congratulations! It has been such a joy following you.
The daily distances you covered were impressive. I am sure I am not the only one here who admires your writing style and humour.

You stay at Calle Laurel! You lucky duck! You " must " go to Bar Angel next door and have a pintxo ( mushrooms ). Go!

Rest well! Enjoy the trainride.

Looking forward to your updates.

Buen Camino!

Yes it just dawned upon me that this is the calle Laurel that Laurie mentioned above, regarding her gastronomical exploits. It is just that... the streets were alive a few hours ago, now everything is shut down. It is Sunday afternoon! But yes, something must be open. I will give it a try.

 

[NorthernLight]

Congratulations on finishing the Ebro!

Good luck on the Invierno.

 

[SabsP]

Yes it just dawned upon me that this is the calle Laurel that Laurie mentioned above, regarding her gastronomical exploits. It is just that... the streets were alive a few hours ago, now everything is shut down. It is Sunday afternoon! But yes, something must be open. I will give it a try.

Other side : Bar Soriano ! Mushrooms also! .
Surely there will be places open.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks so much BP for sharing your Ruta del Ebro. It’s funny how different forum members have such different styles as they write live from the camino, and I have to say your combination of humor, and observation of the human condition around you make for very enjoyable reading.

Feel free to flood the forum with frequent posts from the Invierno. Even if there’s no new information, you now have a loyal fan club that loves to read about your experiences. So if it’s lonely out there after walking, you can always find companionship here.

I’m really interested to learn what is open (I am referring to places to sleep, so feel free to ignore the old fight about bar openings ). If luck stays with me, I may be back on the Invierno early this fall. Hard to know, but it’s a possibility.

 

[Suzanne S.]

Yes! What @peregrina2000 said! I will look forward to your updates and summaries as you choose to post them!

Thank you so much for these!!!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

The Logroño to Burgos bus would likely be simpler; am I detecting a hint that the train ride is visually stunning?

Stunning or not, I take the bus between 2 and 9 am... It will be dark outside so I won't see anything!

I have taken the night bus before, for example Mérida - Ponferrada, so I am used to travelling by night. My only concern is to find the right bus in a bus station in a city I don't know... Stressful...

 

[SabsP]

Stunning or not, I take the bus between 2 and 9 am... It will be dark outside so I won't see anything!

I have taken the night bus before, for example Mérida - Ponferrada, so I am used to travelling by night. My only concern is to find the right bus in a bus station in a city I don't know... Stressful...

Unless they invested in the busstation in Logroño it will still be a rather dirty place. Use the toilet at your pension before you head off.

 

[donalomahony]

Thank you for taking the time to update us...

 

[palmah]

Day 17: Arrúbal- Logroño, 19 kms

I am not used to being alone in such a large, empty building as a municipal albergue. It was kind of spooky. I was waiting for the usual group of cyclists to burst into the dorm with their headlamps at 11:30, but nothing happened. I decided to sleep in (until 06:00 in the morning; a deadly sin) since I only had about 19 kms to walk today.

The Camino continues from the church where the albergue is located. There are only 4 easy kms to the next pueblo: Agoncillo (first picture). But no bars were open since it was early, and Sunday morning.

After Agoncillo there is conflicting waymarking. An arrow points under the bridge, while a modern sign (the "traffic sign"; blue background, the silhouette of a pilgrim...) urges you to turn to the right, next to the train tracks. I followed the modern sign, which was perhaps not a good idea. It took me for a stroll near the airport of Logroño, then back over the train tracks. I was walking into the small town of Recajo on the highway N-232 where the cars angrily honked at me to get out of the way. This irritated me since there were modern Camino signs everywhere along the road; I was not out of place. But when the signs wanted me to walk all the way into Logroño on this evergrowing highway for the remaining 8 kms, I had enough and jumped over to the smaller carretera de Zaragoza. There was almost no traffic on a Sunday morning.

I passed three massive bodegas on my way into Logroño. I had to take a picture of the first one (second picture). It looks like a spaceship has landed in the vineyards. Or is it a missing piece of Monte do Gozo?

I aimed for the suburb of Varea where I thought I would find the arrows again. They reappeared, and took me on a river walk, like in Zaragoza, all the way into Logroño. It is the Ruta del Ebro after all so I guess they want you to be glued to the river until the bitter end.

When I approached the bridge Puente de Piedra that comes from the Camino Francés, I spotted two pilgrims who were just crossing. I thought there would be more after them, but they were the only ones. They sneaked into an albergue (there is one in every corner here; how is that possible!?) while I continued along the Camino Francés for a while. I went to the church of Santiago and saw the pilgrims' fountain (picture nr 5). The church was open, but the inside didn't look much to me.

I haven't been to Logroño for twelve years, on my first Camino. But I hardly remember anything of what the city looks like. I think there are less pilgrims now though. Of course there are a lot of foreigners at the plaza in front of the cathedral, whom I presume are pilgrims who have slipped into something more comfortable in the afternoon. But there were much more of them last time I was here.

I stay in Pensión Travesia, 29 euros, in a street stuffed with people and tapas bars. The building and the stairs look like they have not been renovated since the Civil War, but the inside is super clean and modern.

I take the bus to Ponferrada at 2 am tonight (gasp) and arrive 8:30 in the morning. That gives me a whole day to rest in Ponferrada and to prepare for the Camino de Invierno. I don't think I will write about the Invierno every day though. I will probably do a summary afterwards, and focus on things that Laurie might want to change or add to the Invierno Forum guide.

It feels weird to have completed La Ruta del Ebro! I will make a summary of this one as well, for those who think about walking it in the future but don't have time to read through my day-to-day ramblings...! I will be back!

/BP

Well done BP! I have been looking forward to your daily updates and I wish you a buen camino!
Palma

 

[VNwalking]

Congratulations, BP!
No pressure to post on the Invierno, but just so you know your fan club will be out here waiting for the least morsel. Especially those of us who are Invierno junkies.

The Logroño to Burgos bus would likely be simpler; am I detecting a hint that the train ride is visually stunning?

The train to Ponferrada wasn't complicated at all, and yes, it was pretty nice.
And no grungy bus station.

 

[Theatregal]

Thank you BP - it's been wonderful following along with you - your words and beautiful photos. Wishing you a Buen Invierno! I loved reading your posts the last time you walked it and look forward to anything you feel like sharing with us this time!! Be well!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Thanks to you all who have followed me,

It sure helped to know that whatever happened to me, it would fuel my entries here ! It made my daily misfortunes so much easier to endure!

I got safely to Ponferrada this morning. I am thinking about posting practical info each day, mostly concerning accomodation, to help people who are coming up behind. Short story: it's the polideportivo in Puente de DF tomorrow, everything else (cheap) is closed or completo. But I will move over to the Invierno Forum...

Thanks for reading!

BP

 

[VNwalking]

it's the polideportivo in Puente de DF tomorrow, everything else is closed or completo. But I will move over to the Invierno Forum...

Holey moley, that's massive.
You better go to the fab pastelleria opposite the castle and stock up on napolitanas.
Buen camino, BP!!!
I am envious.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Holey moley, that's massive.
You better go to the fab pastelleria opposite the castle and stock up on napolitanas.
Buen camino, BP!!!
I am envious.

You mean opposite the castle here in Ponferrada? I went there the first thing in the morning...! There is now an alarming shortage of napolitanas in the Bierzo region...

 

[peregrina2000]

it's the polideportivo in Puente de DF tomorrow, everything else (cheap) is closed or completo

Have you tried the new private albergue? The forum member who told me about it said it was open.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/private-albergue-in-puente-de-domingo-flórez.69814/

 

[VNwalking]

You mean opposite the castle here in Ponferrada?

Yup. The very place. Fortunately they will have made some more by tomorrow morning.,
For those out of the know...it is here:

LIEBANA ECOFFEE

Not to be missed.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Have you tried the new private albergue? The forum member who told me about it said it was open.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/private-albergue-in-puente-de-domingo-flórez.69814/

I will reply in new thread!

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Bad Pilgrim - thank you so much for letting me start each day with such happy memories. I ended my Ebro camino in Logrono.
Bless you, my friend, keep safe, and I hope to follow more of your caminos in the days/weeks ahead.
Buen camino!
Steve in England.

 

[eobennett4]

Hi everyone,

I may or may not begin to walk the Ebro from Deltebre next week!

I am currently investigating what I need to do to enter Spain according to the authorities. I am not a criminal!! I will comply to the rules.

I do have my credencial ready (that Ivar sent me one year ago when I thought I could still go in 2020). And I just recieved the guidebook that I ordered from Spain by mail! It is form 2006 (yikes), but I like to have something to browse through while I am walking.

If I can cross Spain legally, I plan to continue on the Olvidado and then the Invierno.

If I can go I should start from Deltebre on June 18th...

To be continued

/Bad Pilgrim

BP

Great thread! Glad I found it. Very helpful to me as I'm planning my first Camino and yours is the most current encounter that I can find.

I'm beginning CdeE April 20th-ish 2022 after a few acclimation days on the Costa Dorada. I am considering to skip the delta and start in Tortosa as that seems the easiest train ride from Barcelona. I was interested in Amposta as an ancient Port city but not sure if that is so? maybe the Delta is a "must see"? What are your thoughts?

I intend to walk towards Gallur. To visit the Gandesa museum and to pray at the Basilica de Pilar in Zaragoza. From Gallur thinking to cross the Castilliano-Argonbes ( Soriano) through Soria and on to Burgos. Yes. I can be quite introverted at times. I like the solitude. Plus there may be good Riojas and Tempernillos there? And from other threads I'm gathering this could be a very beautiful Camino.

On completing the Lana stretch from the monastery, I'm not sure what I'll do? Join the Frances or move on to Invierno? Time will tell.

Ultreia!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

BP

Great thread! Glad I found it. Very helpful to me as I'm planning my first Camino and yours is the most current encounter that I can find.

I'm beginning CdeE April 20th-ish 2022 after a few acclimation days on the Costa Dorada. I am considering to skip the delta and start in Tortosa as that seems the easiest train ride from Barcelona. I was interested in Amposta as an ancient Port city but not sure if that is so? maybe the Delta is a "must see"? What are your thoughts?

I intend to walk towards Gallur. To visit the Gandesa museum and to pray at the Basilica de Pilar in Zaragoza. From Gallur thinking to cross the Castilliano-Argonbes ( Soriano) through Soria and on to Burgos. Yes. I can be quite introverted at times. I like the solitude. Plus there may be good Riojas and Tempernillos there? And from other threads I'm gathering this could be a very beautiful Camino.

On completing the Lana stretch from the monastery, I'm not sure what I'll do? Join the Frances or move on to Invierno? Time will tell.

Ultreia!

Hello,

The Delta could be interesting for people who like birds: flamingos and yadda-yadda... From what I have heard of other pilgrims, there is not much more to see there. That's why I started in Deltebre. If you go to Deltrebre, I guess you could take a taxi to see the flamingos, or take a day to walk there and back. I think that would be about 25-30 kms from Deltebre to the delta, and back again.

Tortosa is actually the start of the Camino according to Mundicamino!

Amposta is not by the coast, but next to the Ebro: I don't know if that makes it a "port city". You have surely noticed in my posts that cultural exploits are not my forte... I hide in the nearest cafetería most of the day!

Then from Santo Domingo de Silos to Burgos? Wow! Any part of the Lana is beautiful. You will like it from there: Covarrubias, Mecerreyes... And before Peregrina@2000 chimes in, I would like you to consider an alternative even more remote than the Lana: the Camino de San Olav from Covarrubias to Burgos. (In the wrong direction, but it is doable in 2-3 days.)

I hope you end up on the Invierno one way or the other. It is a Camino that has a lot of advocates on this Forum. My plan is to be back there this Summer!

/BP

 

[VNwalking]

flamingos and yadda-yadda

Haha, Whatta ya mean, "yadda-yadda"? Bird lovers unite! (Are Napolitanas just crossants and yadda-yadda?)

And before Peregrina@2000 chimes in, I would like you to consider an alternative even more remote than the Lana: the Camino de San Olav from Covarrubias to Burgos. (In the wrong direction, but it is doable in 2-3 days.)

Having done this, I agree 1000%.

 

[eobennett4]

Hmm I like birds. I have never seen a flamingo in the wild.

Things seem to change rapidly as I plan. I just heard from a friend in Calafell. She has invited me to visit and stay for a couple of days. Wikiloc (a very new application for me) suggests I can walk straight from Calafell up to Lleida and across to Pina de Ebro to join the Cami. De Ebro. So, it looks like I may pass on the Delta this time.

San Olav sounds interesting! As you know, I plan to traverse in parallel with the Frances on the Cami Castellano-Argonnes. From St Domingo up to Burgos...is that the Olav? or Lana? I've found the "walkers Guide to San Olav" in the resources..helpful! I would be walking the way in reverse of the guide.

Thank you BP! Not so bad afterall!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hmm I like birds. I have never seen a flamingo in the wild.

Things seem to change rapidly as I plan. I just heard from a friend in Calafell. She has invited me to visit and stay for a couple of days. Wikiloc (a very new application for me) suggests I can walk straight from Calafell up to Lleida and across to Pina de Ebro to join the Cami. De Ebro. So, it looks like I may pass on the Delta this time.

San Olav sounds interesting! As you know, I plan to traverse in parallel with the Frances on the Cami Castellano-Argonnes. From St Domingo up to Burgos...is that the Olav? or Lana? I've found the "walkers Guide to San Olav" in the resources..helpful! I would be walking the way in reverse of the guide.

Thank you BP! Not so bad afterall!

From Covarrubias (after Santo Domingo de Silos) you can take either the regular Lana or the quaint San Olav to Burgos. In either case, you will meet few people! I had some trouble finding accomodation and food on the San Olav, but that is probably because I should have planned better...! And I think it is more comfortable to walk it in 3 days, not 2 as I did.

And the quirky Ermita de San Olav is a sight to behold! Who needs an ancient sanctuary when you can have a fusion between a recycling bin and a slate quarry?!

 

[eobennett4]

From Covarrubias (after Santo Domingo de Silos) you can take either the regular Lana or the quaint San Olav to Burgos. In either case, you will meet few people! I had some trouble finding accomodation and food on the San Olav, but that is probably because I should have planned better...! And I think it is more comfortable to walk it in 3 days, not 2 as I did.

And the quirky Ermita de San Olav is a sight to behold! Who needs an ancient sanctuary when you can have a fusion between a recycling bin and a slate quarry?!

I'm from Portland! "Weird" is what we do here! Is the Ermita hospitable?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I'm from Portland! "Weird" is what we do here! Is the Ermita hospitable?

They have opening hours here: http://www.capilladesanolav.com/es/c/?idsec=398

So it will be closed for early morning pilgrims. Covarrubias cherish their history and their Ermita very much, so I would like to think they are hospitable once they open !

 

[peregrina2000]

They have opening hours here: http://www.capilladesanolav.com/es/c/?idsec=398

I think this is the only website of a monument of any kind that I have ever seen that does not post a picture. At least not one that I could find. But it would be rude of me to suggest that a picture is likely to turn away more visitors than it will attract.