LIVE from the Camino BP on the Ebro June 2021

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi everyone,

I may or may not begin to walk the Ebro from Deltebre next week!

I am currently investigating what I need to do to enter Spain according to the authorities. I am not a criminal!! I will comply to the rules.

I do have my credencial ready (that Ivar sent me one year ago when I thought I could still go in 2020). And I just recieved the guidebook that I ordered from Spain by mail! It is form 2006 (yikes), but I like to have something to browse through while I am walking.

If I can cross Spain legally, I plan to continue on the Olvidado and then the Invierno.

If I can go I should start from Deltebre on June 18th...

To be continued

/Bad Pilgrim

 

[C clearly]

I'm looking forward to your updates.

Take care about tripping if you are browsing through that guide book while walking!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I went on a shopping spree today! Still not fully equipped. And because of my work I have had no time to prepare physically. I am going for extended walks around where I live from now on, and then I hope I will be able to walk those first 20 kms from Deltebre to San Carles without injuries... On my other Caminos, I have had much more time to prepare. Oh well, we will see how it goes. People say the Ebro is flat, which I quite like. And I have no problems with asphalt; I quite enjoy it.

Yeah I plan to write a few words about this Camino if I ever get to the starting point. But other members have walked the Ebro in later years and there are already some accounts in this subforum.

The tricky part is the permits to enter Spain from where I live. I understand that 2 of them are required, of which I have to get one 48 hours before I enter Spain. All the centers that issue this particular 48-hour-permit are fully booked weeks ahead from now. But I managed to find a place where I don't have to book. My only hope is to drop by the day before my flight and get hold of the permit, otherwise I can't go...

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

I love the Ebro camino - it's so peaceful yet well signed. Have you looked at my web site? https://snicholl5.wixsite.com/home-site/santiago and Pilgrimage 5 was the Ebro. There's a Diary and a photo album which are down-loadable and may be helpful.

Buen camino, amigo!
Steve.

If I can go I should start from Deltebre on June 18th...

 

[lt56ny]

Gronze.com also has a little information. Maps of each stage with the names of towns and distances between towns. The star system of difficulty/scenery and an elevation map of each stage. If you open up the description of the camino there is also a little more useful information.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Gronze.com also has a little information. Maps of each stage with the names of towns and distances between towns. The star system of difficulty/scenery and an elevation map of each stage. If you open up the description of the camino there is also a little more useful information.

Yes,

It looks more up to date indeed, and I don't need to print it, which is good.

I have read conflicting accounts about how good the waymarking is on the Ebro; perhaps I don't need any of the guides to find my way...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I love the Ebro camino - it's so peaceful yet well signed. Have you looked at my web site? https://snicholl5.wixsite.com/home-site/santiago and Pilgrimage 5 was the Ebro. There's a Diary and a photo album which are down-loadable and may be helpful.

Buen camino, amigo!
Steve.

I am reading it right now, bit by bit... Those tunnels look scary, a few stages from Deltebre?! But I never travel without my flashlight (I am used to start walking before sunrise, especially in summer) so I will be prepared for darkness...

 

[peregrina2000]

I am reading it right now, bit by bit... Those tunnels look scary, a few stages from Deltebre?! But I never travel without my flashlight (I am used to start walking before sunrise, especially in summer) so I will be prepared for darkness...

Oh, those tunnels are so cool! I only had my phone flashlight and was fine. That is a beautiful part of the Ebro on the bike trail.

I left the Ebro in Zaragoza, or one stage later in Gallur to be more precise, to follow the Castellano-Aragonés, which is a beautiful camino. And it connects with your favorite, the Lana, outside Santo Domingo de Silos!

Are you planning to walk to Logroño?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Oh, those tunnels are so cool! I only had my phone flashlight and was fine. That is a beautiful part of the Ebro on the bike trail.

I left the Ebro in Zaragoza, or one stage later in Gallur to be more precise, to follow the Castellano-Aragonés, which is a beautiful camino. And it connects with your favorite, the Lana, outside Santo Domingo de Silos!

Are you planning to walk to Logroño?

Yes I want to finish in Logroño (where I have only been once, on my first Camino a long time ago). Then take a bus to Bilbao and walk the Olvidado. But let us not get ahead of things... My first goal is to get to Deltebre. With all the hustle and different permits, I would be surprised if I even got that far...

 

[VNwalking]

Wow, buen camino, BP!
I'm happy for you; even the possibility is light at the end of the tunnel.
(And I vaguely remember Alan saying in his posts that those real tunnels have motion-sensor lights?)

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

The best laid plans.......... But I will try. I already bought my plane ticket, and should arrive fairly early in Barcelona (12:45 pm). Today I will be looking up how to get as close as possible to Deltebre from Barcelona (bus? train? helicopter? army tank?) and book accomodation in Deltebre... if there is any.

 

[VNwalking]

The only thing we found was to take a train to Amposta and call the cab, whose number is posted there, to get to Riumar. Rome2Rio suggests that that’s also the case for getting to Deltebre. Looks like train or bus goes only to Amposta. I remember something about buses to Riumar in high season, though.

My blog says that the camino doesn’t actually enter Deltebre, so you will have to have someone point you in the right direction.

Edit...plus...

In that case, it might be better to take the train to L'Aldea-Amposta-Tortosa from where Hife (www.hife.es) has buses to Deltebre.

Amposta is a bit more far away from Riumar the L'Ampolla. However, there's no train station in Amposta itself. The train station serving Amposta is at L'Aldea and L'Aldea is something like a kilometer (or a km and a half) closer to Riumar than L'Ampolla.

There's taxi service available in both L'Ampolla and L'Aldea.

There are more trains from Barcelona to L'Aldea than from Barcelona to L'Ampolla.

The Regional Express fare from Barcelona to L'Ampolla is the same than from Barcelona to L'Aldea.

Comming from Barcelona, L'Aldea is more far away (7-8 minutes by train) than L'Ampolla.

A PM to Alan might yield specific information, but he walked from Deltebre in 2015, a while ago.
It sounds like you won't need a tank though, as there are taxis.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Ajá,

I should have known: that is from my own conversation I had with Laurie last year about how to get to Riumar/Deltebre from Barcelona. I just re-read it now. Well, I want to get started as soon as possible so I think I will start from Deltebre... the ocean can wait. I also need to shorten the first stage(s) when possible, since I have had so little time to get in shape...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Edit...plus...


A PM to Alan might yield specific information, but he walked from Deltebre in 2015, a while ago.
It sounds like you won't need a tank though, as there are taxis.

According to Hife, there is a bus from Barcelona Airport (El Prat?) to Deltebre at 3.15 pm on Thursday - too good to be true?! From what I gathered from previous E-bros, the taxi part was unavoidable.

 

[VNwalking]

According to Hife, there is a bus directly from Barcelona Airport (El Prat?) to Deltebre at 3.15 pm on Thursday - too good to be true?!

Oh ye of little faith...
(May it be so!)

 

[OzAnnie]

The best laid plans.......... But I will try. I already bought my plane ticket, …………………….,,,,……………………….

and book accomodation in Deltebre... if there is any.

I’m feeling so positive for you @Bad Pilgrim

I am looking forward to reading your pearls of wisdom from this trip to Spain & caminos planned.

(IMO). you actually are a very good pilgrim.

buen camino
Annie

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

So, I just booked for a covid-test-travel-permit. The day before I leave: it is good for 48 hours after the test. I hope it will be valid in the eyes of the authorities. The airline is threatening with a fine of 3000 euros (!!!) for anyone trying to enter Spain without the right papers.

I feel as if there is an obstacle course to run from here to Deltebre...

To be continued...

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, wow, I just noticed that you are talking about NEXT WEEK!!!!!!

So happy for you BP. Fingers crossed it works. That first day is a lot of asphalt. Actually, I remember a fair amount of asphalt in the early stages. But I also think I remember that you don’t mind the asphalt.

Starting at Deltebre instead of Riumar is not the end of the world. Riumar was a sad place when I was there, and I imagine the pandemic hasn’t done it any favors. Lots of vacant and charmless modern beach construction.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I am looking forward to reading your pearls of wisdom

You mean: my usual rambling, inconsistencies and misfortunes...? Add to this the ultimate destruction of English as a second language. Well I will make an effort to keep you all entertained...!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

OK: Last health form filled, last QR-code loaded, last boarding cards recieved, all camino items purchased... But who knows where I will end up tomorrow.

If I made it, I will let you know tomorrow evening...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I made it!! I am in Deltebre, in my luxurious hostal Casa Angela! I have been awake since 4 am (and I started the day by walking to my local airport in the morning) so I will sleep like a log tonight. There were a lot of changes with the bus to get to Deltebre, and a few thunderstorms to get through. l thought I would never arrive. But I can confirm that you can go by bus from Barcelona Airport to the Ayuntamiento in Deltebre, there is no need for taxi. Ticket was 24 euros.

I am not in shape to walk more than 20 kms to Sant Carles de la Ràpita tomorrow, but I will give it a try

But I am a city pilgrim and the asphalt will be my friend...

 

[SabsP]

I made it!! I am in Deltebre, in my luxurious hostal Casa Angela! I have been awake since 4 am (and I started the day by walking to my local airport in the morning) so I will sleep like a log tonight. There were a lot of changes with the bus to get to Deltebre, and a few thunderstorms to get through. l thought I would never arrive. But I can confirm that you can go by bus from Barcelona Airport to the Ayuntamiento in Deltebre, there is no need for taxi. Ticket was 24 euros.

I am not in shape to walk more than 20 kms to Sant Carles de la Ràpita tomorrow, but I will give it a try

But I am a city pilgrim and the asphalt will be my friend...

Aha! You made it. All the best and find some shade!

 

[OzAnnie]

Cooo’eeee. @Bad Pilgrim

that’s great news!

I can confirm that you can go by bus from Barcelona Airport to the Ayuntamiento in Deltebre, there is no need for taxi. Ticket was 24 euros.

Helpful info already - Thankyou.

I am not in shape to walk more than 20 kms to Sant Carles de la Ràpita tomorrow, but I will give it a try

I hope first night in spain helps you refresh and improves your confidence .. I think you’ll surprise yourself. .
Well done and buen camino.
Annie

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 1: Deltebre - Sant Carles de la Ràpita 23 kms?

All day in the rice paddies, next to a canal and flat flat flat. Lots of birds to look at, some with babies! No pink flamingos though, they reside mostly around Riumar, I think?

The Camino has changed since 2006 when the guidebook was written, but recent E-bros probably know already. Not all is on asphalt: someone must have made an effort to direct pilgrims to as much country road as possible. Waymarking was ok. Every turn is not marked, but I probably didn't follow the Camino all the time. Many straight lines and canals to follow, which is reflected in today's pictures.

There are cafés and restaurants in the artificial hamlet of Poblenou del Delta, about half way to Sant Carles. I needed this break, as I am not really in shape yet.

There was no shadow for the entire way (only exception see 2nd picture) so I already burnt my legs! On the 3rd picture you can see the effects of the heavy rainfall from yesterday. There will be thunderstorms tomorrow again, and I have to walk 28 kms to Tortosa!

Tonight I stay at the cheapest accomodation I could find in Sant Carles: Hotel Nou Rocamar, 35 euros. It is ok and right in the center, close to the harbor.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 2: Sant Carles de la Ràpita - Tortosa, 28 kms.

Cloudy, humid and hot today, and a very light rain all day long. It is still raining as I write this in the safe haven of Cafetería Virginia, a stone's throw away from Tortosa Parc which is my hotel for about 25 euros. Cheapest accomodation so far. I passed out for two hours in my bed: I was that tired from walking. There was little sunshine to speak of today, still I was hot and exhausted for the last kms. One of the worst slogs I have had to live through. I had breakfast at Amposta, somewhere before half way to Tortosa, but little did that help. My legs felt like two chopping blocks; my feet felt as if I had been out clog dancing all night.

I am looking forward to a short stage tomorrow: 17 kms. And after tomorrow comes the infamous tunnel stage, but I have my flashlight ready.

Today's pictures are all from the canal/the Ebro, because I have been following it all day. And the tower of
La Carrova that looked interesting. But I had no force to go and check it out. I know there are things to see in Tortosa as well... But right now I stay clutched to my café con leche inside the cafetería... No more clog dancing tonight...

 

[SabsP]

Cheers @Bad Pilgrim . See you are following the " gronze stages " but I guess there are not many other choices to stop?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Cheers @Bad Pilgrim . See you are following the " gronze stages " but I guess there are not many other choices to stop?

Yes, I dutifully follow gronze so far! Tomorrow I have to stay in Xerta, I don't see how I would carry on to Benifaillet since I am exhausted, or the station close to it. But accomodation is limited in Xerta. Anyone has a good idea where to stay in Xerta...?

 

[SabsP]

Yes, I dutifully follow gronze so far! Tomorrow I have to stay in Xerta, I don't see how I would carry on to Benifaillet since I am exhausted, or the station close to it. But accomodation is limited in Xerta. Anyone has a good idea where to stay in Xerta...?

Found Villa Retiro but with 223 € a night I guess a bit steep for us pilgrims...

Hotel Villa Retiro - Hotel Boutique y Restaurante con 1 Estrella Michelin

Hotel Boutique de 5 estrellas y restaurante con 1 Estrella Michelin en Xerta. Edificado en 1890 y habilitado como Hotel Villa Retiro desde 2006.

hotelvillaretiro.com

Jeez they know there prices around Xerta.
Cheapest I found while searching the internet is this one ...77 € for a single? Wow.

Casa Ceremines

www.casaceremines.cat

Of course this albergue style / for groups ( so it seems ) : Albergue Xerta although bookingdotcom says it is fully booked for tomorrow but there is no harm in calling the place.

Precios albergue | albergxerta.cat

» Precios albergue | L’alberg de la Via Verda a Xerta

www.albergxerta.cat

Good luck!

 

[marilyn van graan]

Thank you Steve for sharing your previous caminos with us - I think Catarina was so lucky to have you as a camino partner - I loved your photos and your beautiful poem at the end was something else - take care and I hope your health issues improve and that you can walk again on the glorious camino paths -XXX

I love the Ebro camino - it's so peaceful yet well signed. Have you looked at my web site? https://snicholl5.wixsite.com/home-site/santiago and Pilgrimage 5 was the Ebro. There's a Diary and a photo album which are down-loadable and may be helpful.

Buen camino, amigo!
Steve.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Found Villa Retiro but with 223 € a night I guess a bit steep for us pilgrims...

Hotel Villa Retiro - Hotel Boutique y Restaurante con 1 Estrella Michelin

Hotel Boutique de 5 estrellas y restaurante con 1 Estrella Michelin en Xerta. Edificado en 1890 y habilitado como Hotel Villa Retiro desde 2006.

hotelvillaretiro.com

Jeez they know there prices around Xerta.
Cheapest I found while searching the internet is this one ...77 € for a single? Wow.

Casa Ceremines

www.casaceremines.cat

Of course this albergue style / for groups ( so it seems ) : Albergue Xerta although bookingdotcom says it is fully booked for tomorrow but there is no harm in calling the place.

Precios albergue | albergxerta.cat

» Precios albergue | L’alberg de la Via Verda a Xerta

www.albergxerta.cat

Good luck!

I know, tomorrow is tricky. Who knows, I might have the strength to carry on to the station in Benifaillet. I won't know until I am in Xerta. And tomorrow is stormy weather again... Although they said there would be thunderstorms today as well but I didn't see much of them.

 

[SabsP]

I know, tomorrow is tricky. Who knows, I might have the strength to carry on to the station in Benifaillet. I won't know until I am in Xerta. And tomorrow is stormy weather again... Although they said there would be thunderstorms today as well but I didn't see much of them.

The station in Benifaillet looks stunning. I like how they combine the more luxurious guest house with the albergue part.

 

[NorthernLight]

Oooh!!!! A camino in progress to follow! Good luck and buen camino!

 

[dagreen]

The station at Benifallet does a nice dinner menu. The albergue rooms also have air conditioning. The walk from Benifallet to Gandesa can be quite challenging on a hot humid day in my opinion.

 

[peregrina2000]

I know, tomorrow is tricky. Who knows, I might have the strength to carry on to the station in Benifaillet. I won't know until I am in Xerta. And tomorrow is stormy weather again... Although they said there would be thunderstorms today as well but I didn't see much of them.

If you get to the station in Benifallet, even if they are full, they will pull out a tent for you if you’re a peregrino. It was a very comfortable night, so go for it!!!

 

[VNwalking]

Coming late to the party, and so glad to see you made it @Bad Pilgrim !

I am not in shape to walk more than 20 kms to Sant Carles de la Ràpita tomorrow, but I will give it a try

One of the worst slogs I have had to live through

I feel for you. Thank goodness for flat flat flat! No doubt by the time the hills come you'll be in shape, but for now...grf. May your covidtime legs be transformed into camino legs very soon!
Buen camino, amigo.
And thank you for sharing. This sure beats following a virtual camino.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 3: Tortosa to Xerta, 17 kms

This day will go down in (my) history as the most expensive day ever on a Camino: 77 euros for a room in Casa Cermines, in Xerta. The thing is that I called Benifallet three times with no answer. I can't keep doing that all day. I also could have asked at the private albergue in Xerta - I was right outside their door - but when I saw "Youth hostel" (in catalan, of course) embroidered above the entrance... Ooh no, not me, not today. I have managed to avoid the STSC (Screaming Teenagers' Summer Camp) so far; I will not fall into their trap again. And I can look forward to a much more convenient price in Gandesa tomorrow.

Today started with a thunderstorm. I found shelter at the last bus stop in the outskirts of Tortosa, just in time. First it hailed, then came the torrential rain. Some of the passing cars had their headlights on, that is how dark it got. I had to stand on a bench to avoid the water that came rushing down the street, while I fought to protect myself with my umbrella from the rain that blew sideways straight into the bus shelter. Luckily there were no more outbursts the rest of the day. But the skies were dark and I kept hearing thunder rolling all the way to Xerta. Once again I was walking next to the canal! I must say I long to see something else tomorrow, for example the ghostly tunnels in the mountains !

Today's pictures are from a flooded Camino (1 picture; don't ask how I got through there) and a bit of sightseeing in Xerta. Lastly a few pictures from the hotel: I think all albergues on the Caminos should look like this, right?? I will send these picture to the Xunta to give them something to work with...!

 

[SabsP]

Oh @Bad Pilgrim : what a day! That first pic reminds me of my second day on the Camino de Ebro ( I started from Zaragoza ). I'm glad you were able to find that busstop.

Sorry but I had to laugh with the description "STSC ". You certainly deserve that gorgeous hotel! I see that most rooms have a bathtub! Enjoy!

Have a nice evening!

 

[VNwalking]

I had to stand on a bench to avoid the water that came rushing down the street, while I fought to protect myself with my umbrella from the rain that blowed sideways straight into the bus shelter.

What an image. No Bad Pilgrim, you: putting up with what the camino throws at you with and elan! And humor in the telling.
Enjoy the quite justifiable comfort, BP!

If it's any comfort, a friend on the Via Tolosana got caught in the same kind of weather this afternoon, saying he was "soaked to the arteries."

I will send these picture to the Xunta to give them something to work with...!

Oh, yes. Excellent idea.

 

[palmah]

Day 3: Tortosa to Xerta, 17 kms

This day will go down in (my) history as the most expensive day ever on a Camino: 77 euros for a room in Casa Cermines, in Xerta. The thing is that I called Benifallet three times with no answer. I can't keep doing that all day. I also could have asked at the private albergue in Xerta - I was right outside their door - but when I saw "Youth hostel" (in catalan, of course) embroidered above the entrance... Ooh no, not me, not today. I have managed to avoid the STSC (Screaming Teenagers' Summer Camp) so far; I will not fall into their trap again. And I can look forward to a much more convenient price in Gandesa tomorrow.

Today started with a thunderstorm. I found shelter at the last bus stop in the outskirts of Tortosa, just in time. First it hailed, then came the torrential rain. Some of the passing cars had their headlights on, that is how dark it got. I had to stand on a bench to avoid the water that came rushing down the street, while I fought to protect myself with my umbrella from the rain that blew sideways straight into the bus shelter. Luckily there were no more outbursts the rest of the day. But the skies were dark and I kept hearing thunder rolling all the way to Xerta. Once again I was walking next to the canal! I must say I long to see something else tomorrow, for example the ghostly tunnels in the mountains !

Today's pictures are from a flooded Camino (1 picture; don't ask how I got through there) and a bit of sightseeing in Xerta. Lastly a few pictures from the hotel: I think all albergues on the Caminos should look like this, right?? I will send these picture to the Xunta to give them something to work with...!

Buen Camino!! I am enjoying your account and hoping for better weather and scenery for you!

 

[LesBrass]

@Bad Pilgrim ... if it makes you feel better this was the storm approaching us today as we pottered in the garden... it's our third storm in three days! Very unseasonal weather we're having here in SW France!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 4: Xerta - Gandesa, 26 kms

It is easy to walk from Casa Cermines to the old train station in Xerta. Next to the station it says "Vía Verde" and then you just start walking. I arrived pretty soon at the station-albergue in Benifallet, where a few groups of cyclists were preparing their excursions in the morning. The station looked nice, but isolated in the mountains. I didn't check if the restaurant/bar was open, I prefered to carry on. The tunnels highly amused me: some of them didn't have lights so I used my flashlight. All the while there were cyclists coming from both directions. But not many walkers. Nice views on both sides: of the river and of the mountains all around. Unfortunately, some tunnels were muddy from the rain the previous days, especially at the entrance and at the end where the sun doesn't dry out the mud. First picture below!

Fontcalda should have been signed better. Yes, you can see the buildings from above and I knew I was going there, but people who don't use the guidebook will be lured into yet another tunnel that lies straight ahead instead of turning right down the gorge. There is a pole with the direction and the distance to Foncalda and Gandesa here, but it wasn't placed right on the Camino.

The bar in Fontcalda was open! Only during summer said the guidebook, so in June I already knew there was a good chance. But the bar is not seen from the Camino. I found it only when I walked up a hundred meters to check out the church (monastery?). I didn't see any working fountain though. If you are walking Xerta - Gandesa in other seasons, with no bar open in Fontcalda, you have to bring something to eat from Xerta. And copious amounts of water.

Leaving Fontcalda was tricky. There are two ways indicated at the bottom of the gorge. One says Gandesa 11 kms (right), the other days Gandesa 9 kms (left). Of course I chose the shortest one. And a quick glance in my guidebook assured me this was the right way. But the steps amongst the rocks (see pictures below) ended abruptly in the river after a few hundred meters. A dead end? It took me a while to discover an overgrown trail and a faint arrow on a tree, which let me continue.

Then I began walking Up Up Up. That is why there are no more pictures of the trail from here: I only took the mandatory photo of the sculpture with the two feet, see below, and then I let my cell phone rest. I needed to concentrate on my walking. I could very well see the enchanting surroundings, the gorge and the mountain tops, that other pilgrims have described. But if I would have stopped to take pictures, I would never have had the strength to get this deplorable body cranked up and going again. And it kept getting steeper and steeper, now in the increasing heat. I thought my heart would snap a few times, but in the end I made it. Bring water, or perish!

Luckily the last kms are downhill (but with some ups and downs). Gandesa couldn't come too soon, and thanks to SabineP I found Hotel Piqué for 39 euros. Which is a steal any day of the week compared to the extravaganza in Casa Cermines in Xerta. Now I have to track down an equally managable price in Fabara... Stay tuned!

Edit: I found the number to Señora Teresa in Fabara in Laurie's notes from 2016. At first no luck; an hour later she answered! Holy hailstorm, I would be sleeping in a ditch if it wasn't for this Forum!

 

[NorthernLight]

Are those tunnels still active rail lines?

 

[peregrina2000]

BP, those are gorgeous pictures! I am so sorry you seem to have missed the Civil War Museum in Gandesa. It is one of my all-time camino favorites. Just a little local museum, with some videos and displays. What really got to me was the long long glass display case of many rows of big US belt buckles. These were all picked up in the field after the big battle of the Ebro, from the many Lincoln Brigade soldiers who fought and died here. So many young idealists, gone way too soon.

But on to Fábara! Just to say (which you probably already know if you’ve read my notes), you can get the key to the Roman mausoleum from a bar in town, then walk out the few kms and open it up yourself. Kind of spooky, but it was pretty cool. When I was in there, I remember a couple of young women from town were walking by and had never been inside, so I let them in!

 

[peregrina2000]

Are those tunnels still active rail lines?

No, it’s part of a Via Verde, a bike and walking path.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

No, it’s part of a Via Verde, a bike and walking path.

A train coming towards me in one of those tunnels ... With my usual bad luck, I wouldn't be surprised ...!

I saw so many buildings that looked like the Benifallet station along the way. Are they all abandoned train stations? But why so many of them in the middle of nowhere? Perhaps they were just abandoned houses. But they all looked the same to me.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

You can get the key to the Roman mausoleum from a bar in town, then walk out the few kms and open it up yourself. Kind of spooky, but it was pretty cool.

Had I known this, I hadn't needed to search so long for accomodation in Fabara ! A night in the mausoleum would beat even the haunted sportshall in Campillo de Altobuey !

 

[SabsP]

Had I known this, I hadn't needed to search so long for accomodation in Fabara ! A night in the mausoleum would beat even the haunted sportshall in Campillo de Altobuey !

Hope you found something affordable? On first sight I do not see much choice in Fabara....

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hope you found something affordable? On first sight I do not see much choice in Fabara....

Thanks, but I edited my post above adding I have found a place to stay in Fabara!

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

I'm enjoying every post on this Ebro forum, as it was my favourite!
Keep up the good work!
Buen caminos a todo.
Stephen

 

[VNwalking]

Stay tuned

I definitely will!
Beautiful photos, BP...and I'm enjoying your account very much.

By now you're well on your way to Fabara. I'm glad tou found somewhere to stay there.
Buen camino!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I saw "Youth hostel" (in catalan, of course) embroidered above the entrance... Ooh no, not me, not today. I have managed to avoid the STSC (Screaming Teenagers' Summer Camp) so far; I will not fall into their trap again.

BP, you are one of the lucky forum members walking a Camino at this time and your updates are interesting to read.
You have given me my first laugh of the morning with these words, and they are so very true with my own limited experiences.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 5: Gandesa - Fabara, 30 kms

I must have recovered from the hike in the mountains yesterday, because my feet felt just fine this morning. For the first twelve kms to Batea today, they would be in their natural habitat: an asphalted road. Aah! Asphalt! Feet, rejoice! And a man wished me Buen Camino, my first so far. We hade a brief conversation before I moved on. I took some pictures here and there: I very much liked the scenery today. The rolling countryside, the vineyards, the abandoned houses, and... the dinosaur farm...?? (Picture 2). I didn't spot any dinos though.

Batea was small, but beautiful. I read that some pilgrims have stayed the night there. I totally understand why: the square, the medieval streets, the interesting arches... There must be things to explore!

Unfortunately, SCI (Screaming Children International) occupied most of the spaces in town when I arrived. Not only the square, but also the narrow streets that lead up to the church. Together with their leaders, they prevented tourists, inhabitants and pilgrims alike from strolling freely. I was somewhat baffled. I wonder if they had asked permission from the Ayuntamiento, or if they just decided to set up camp where they thought was fine. The little ones had sieged the Plaza Mayor, while the teenagers effectively blocked every single medieval street with colored plastic cones. Their game seemed to consist of chasing each other between the cones, possibly with extra points to the one who yelled the most. This rant is not insignificant! It meant that I couldn't freely search for the Camino through Batea, which annoyed me. Luckily my guidebook advised me to just look for the road T-723 and take it from there, which I did.

After a few kms, at the cross (picture 7), the asphalt gave way to a dirt road that led me out in the countryside again. Beautiful but dry; not a single drop of water in sight until I crossed the river Algars. The river wasn't totally dry in spite of the summer heat. I wonder if it will still carry water in July, August...? I could hear all sorts of wildlife rustling in the bushes next to the riverbed, but had no luck in spotting anything.

Before the river, there was a crossroad with several Camino signs and GR indications all over the place. According to the guidebook, this is the border between Cataluña and Aragón. So this evening I am in my first town in Aragón: Fabara, 18 kms from Batea.

Señora Teresa picked me up by car at the school building, but her house is really just a few blocks away. 25 euros for a cool, cosy room in her tidy house. And she has a washing mashine, which makes her my new best friend. There is a construction worker of some sort also staying there, so there are two of us staying tonight.

Tomorrow: Caspe! Don't go anywhere.

 

[NorthernLight]

I think this camino is moving higher on my to do list.

SCI ... lovely

 

[SabsP]

SCI...maybe celebrating end of schoolyear?

Anyway...gorgeous pics! And in good hands with Señora Teresa.

 

[Suzanne S.]

@Bad Pilgrim ! I am delighted to have found this string. I have been building myself a route (as if no one else has ever done this) from Barcelona to Burgos, and like @peregrina2000 , I am considering taking the Ebro to Gallur...but your descriptions may make me change my starting point...

At this point, a 2022 Camino is a nice fantasy for me, but...I am following your progress. Thank you so much!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

@Bad Pilgrim ! I am delighted to have found this string. I have been building myself a route (as if no one else has ever done this) from Barcelona to Burgos, and like @peregrina2000 , I am considering taking the Ebro to Gallur...but your descriptions may make me change my starting point...

At this point, a 2022 Camino is a nice fantasy for me, but...I am following your progress. Thank you so much!

Hi Suzanne,

I am glad to hear about your plans for 2022! Please tell us more about your route-building! I guess it will be the Castellano-Aragonés then? I am no expert on that one, but it seems like it hooks up with the Camino de la Lana before Burgos. And the Lana is fantastic!!

 

[Suzanne S.]

Hi Suzanne,

I am glad to hear about your plans for 2022! Please tell us more about your route-building! I guess it will be the Castellano-Aragonés then? I am no expert on that one, but it seems like it hooks up with the Camino de la Lana before Burgos. And the Lana is fantastic!!

Yes, that is what is exactly what is currently on paper! I think I would stay on the Frances over the Meseta, because I love the Meseta, then head to the Invierno/Sanabres into Santiago. Haven't thought that part completely through, yet.

 

[VNwalking]

the dinosaur farm...?? (Picture 2). I didn't spot any dinos though.

Unfortunately, SCI (Screaming Children International) occupied most of the spaces in town when I arrived.

Don't go anywhere.

What, are you kidding? The suspense is gripping. Will SCI end up at the dino farm?
And what then??
Meanwhiley you have walked serenely on.
Buen camino, good pilgrim!

I think I would stay on the Frances over the Meseta, because I love the Meseta, then head to the Invierno/Sanabres into Santiago. Haven't thought that part completely through, yet.

This is a wonderful plan you have!
It's what I did off the Vasco in 2019, staying in small mid-stage places to minimize the culture shock of the crowds. Once on the Invierno it's back to quiet.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 6: Fabara - Caspe, 21 kms

Mr Construction Worker and I had a little chat yesterday. Finally someone to talk to! Mostly about Spanish history, since I told him where I started and about the towns I had walked through. He had stayed several months at Señora Teresa's place, so he has met a few pilgrims by now. But he had never heard about the Ruta del Ebro before he moved in, so the first pilgrims who arrived had taken him by surprise! He told me that the last couple had stayed eight days ago. They had said that they walked to Santiago de Compostela in order to... get protection from Covid. I rest my case.

I could hear the rain all night through, and it was still raining when I stepped outside in the morning. It has been raining, at least part of the day, every second day since I started walking.

The first kms from Fabara were muddy and I had to slow down. I knew it would take me all day to get to Caspe in this weather. But once the trail started to ascend there were more pebbles than mud to walk on, and the rain gradually subsided. But there would be a soft rain and dark skies all the way to Caspe, where the sun finally appeared.

I walked 21 kms whithout any place to get food or water. (I highly suspect they were more than 21 kms though.) I saw one car and one guy walking, otherwise I was all on my own. Guidebook says it is an arid stage, but as it was rainy that was not the case today. I took few pictures because my cellphone was stowed away in my backpack most of the time, to protect it from the rain. The best part was the Sierra de Caspe, where the Camino follows the ridge with clear views (ok, somewhat misty today) on both sides. After the descent from the ridge starts the arid landscape: boulders and rocks in all sizes and shapes on the right side, vineyards or fruit trees on the left side. This seemed to go on forever and ever, until I got closer to the highway and knew that Caspe was within reach.

About 6 kms before Caspe, I stumbled upon this huge memorial to the International Brigades (picture 4). The sculpture looked so cold and lonely on the hill, watching over the motorway and the fields in the wind and the rain. Someone had laid down a few flowers. The sculpture is from March 2018, so it seems that new memorials of the war still pop up here and there in the region.

In Caspe I marched directly towards the hostal-bar El Surtidor, since it was easy to find along the main street and I desperately needed a café con leche. About 26 euros. (The room, not the coffee.) I saw the indications to the Ermita Santa María and to the Torre de Salamanca, but I was too tired to go there... I guess the memorial of the Civil War will count as the cultural extravaganza of the day. Mr Construction Worker told me there would be a lot of historical thingies to see in Caspe, but... I need my siesta first...

 

[SabsP]

The historical thingies will still be there for some time .
And that other couple...say not more! No really I will say no more seeing talking about religion ends not well most of the times...
El Surtidor look nice enough! I do like the hostales that also have a bar . Means breakfast tomorrow morning!
Tomorrow wil be a long etapa, unless you will break up the stage and stop in Chiprana?
Either way : rest well!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

The histoirical thingies will still be there for some time .
And that other couple...say not more! No really I will say no more seeing talking about religion ends not well most of the times...
El Surtidor look nice enough! I do like the hostales that also have a bar . Means breakfast tomorrow morning!
Tomorrow wil be a long etapa, unless you will break up the stage and stop in Chiprana?
Either way : rest well!

I just phoned the Pension Mayor in Escatrón: 26 euros. (Hostal Embarcadero didn't answer.) So I will try to reach Escatrón... Nice to know that Chiprana comes in between: I will definitely have something to eat there! Every day I am thankful to find somewhere to stay as it is not easy in this area...

 

[peregrina2000]

So interesting that there is a tribute to the International Brigades built in 2018! That explains why I didn’t see it, since I passed by a couple of years earlier. And the last American member of the Brigades died in 2016, and I assume those from other countries are also now pretty much gone from this life, so it is interesting that they are building monuments now. I am not one to glorify war, but I do think the tribute that the (conservative Republican) U.S. Senator John McCain (RIP) wrote on the death of the last surviving member of the US brigade is a beautiful eulogy.

https://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/25/opinion/john-mccain-salute-to-a-communist.html

If you get to Escatrón tomorrow, go up to the new town and see if there are three women playing parhesi. They may need you as their fourth. I had a great time.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I am not one to glorify war, but I do think the tribute that the (conservative Republican) U.S. Senator John McCain (RIP) wrote on the death of the last surviving member of the US brigade is a beautiful eulogy.

I read glimpses of it: it is hidden behind a pay wall! Fascinating though.

The monument made me recall a story from my country. I actually thought about it for a while when I continued my walk. A young man fought in the Brigades and fell in love with a Spanish girl. They were 17-18 years old. Her family wouldn't let them marry, so he returned to our country. They kept exchanging letters though. For the rest of their lives. Even after having married other people and had their own families they wrote one letter a week to each other. Only in his late seventies did the man travel back to Spain to meet the woman. Before he died of old age... So there are those stories as well... It is pretty sad, I think...

If you get to Escatrón tomorrow, go up to the new town and see if there are three women playing parhesi. They may need you as their fourth. I had a great time.

I had to look that one up, never heard of it ! I hope it is not too complicated...!

 

[peregrina2000]

I read glimpses of it: it is hidden behind a pay wall! Fascinating though.

John McCain: Salute to a Communist

AN interesting obituary appeared in The New York Times recently, though the death of its subject last month was largely unnoticed beyond his family and friends.

That’s not surprising. Delmer Berg wasn’t a celebrity. He wasn’t someone with great wealth or influence. He had never held public office. He was a Californian. He worked as a farmhand and stonemason. He did some union organizing. He was vice president of his local N.A.A.C.P. chapter. He protested against the Vietnam War and nuclear weapons. He joined the United States Communist Party in 1943, and, according to The Times, he remained an “unreconstructed Communist” for the rest of his life. He was 100.

He was also the last known living veteran of the Abraham Lincoln Brigade.

Not many Americans younger than 70 know much about the Lincoln Brigade. It became the designation given to the nearly 3,000 mostly American volunteers who fought in the Spanish Civil War in 1937 and 1938. They fought on the Republican side, in defense of the democratically elected leftist government of Spain, and against the Nationalists, the military rebels led by Gen. Francisco Franco.

The Nationalists claimed their cause was anti-Communism and the restoration of the monarchy, and the Republicans professed to fight for the preservation of democracy. Fascists led the former, while Communists, both the cynical and naïve varieties, sought control of the latter. And into the Republican camp came idealistic freedom fighters from abroad.
The Lincoln Brigade was originally called a battalion, one of several volunteer units that were part of the International Brigades, the name given the tens of thousands of foreign volunteers who came from dozens of countries, and were organized and largely led by the Comintern, the international Communist organization controlled by the Soviets. Franco’s Nationalists were supported by Nazi Germany and Mussolini’s Italy.

Spain became the theater where the three most powerful ideologies of the 20th century — Communism, fascism and self-determination — began the war that would continue, in some form or another, for more than half the century until the advocates of liberty, and their champion, the United States, prevailed.

Not all the Americans who fought in the Lincoln Brigade were Communists. Many were, including Delmer Berg. Others, though, had just come to fight fascists and defend a democracy. Even many of the Communists, like Mr. Berg, believed they were freedom fighters first, sacrificing life and limb in a country they knew little about, for a people they had never met.

You might consider them romantics, fighting in a doomed cause for something greater than their self-interest. And even though men like Mr. Berg would identify with a cause, Communism, that inflicted far more misery than it ever alleviated — and rendered human dignity subservient to the state — I have always harbored admiration for their courage and sacrifice in Spain.

I have felt that way since I was boy of 12, reading Hemingway’s “For Whom the Bell Tolls” in my father’s study. It is my favorite novel, and its hero, Robert Jordan, the Midwestern teacher who fought and died in Spain, became my favorite literary hero. In the novel, Jordan had begun to see the cause as futile. He was cynical about its leadership, and distrustful of the Soviet cadres who tried to suborn it.

But in the final scene of the book, a wounded Jordan chooses to die to save the poor Spanish souls he fought beside and for. And Jordan’s cause wasn’t a clash of ideologies any longer, but a noble sacrifice for love.

“The world is a fine place and worth the fighting for,” Jordan thinks as he waits to die, “and I hate very much to leave it.” But he did leave it. Willingly.

Mr. Berg went to Spain when he was a very young man. He fought in some of the biggest and most consequential battles of the war. He sustained wounds. He watched friends die. He knew he had ransomed his life to a lost cause, for a people who were strangers to him, but to whom he felt an obligation, and he did not quit on them. Then he came home, started a cement and stonemasonry business and fought for the things he believed in for the rest of his long life.

I don’t believe in most of the things that Mr. Berg did, except this. I believe, as Donne wrote, “no man is an island, entire of itself.” He is “part of the main.” And I believe “any man’s death diminishes me, because I am involved in mankind.”

So was Mr. Berg. He didn’t need to know for whom the bell tolls. He knew it tolled for him. And I salute him. Rest in peace.

 

[peregrina2000]

I’m assuming you have the news about the new Escatrón albergue. Much better than the cement block, windowless cells Annie and I stayed in down by the river. Kind of spooky.

The albergue is new and no screaming teenagers to deal with.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/Álvaro-lazaga-walking-again.69861/#post-919824

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

You have no idea how much I am enjoying this forum - and all the happy memories it brings back. I think it was in Caspe that I saw all the storks, nesting on the ruined roof of a convent, and all facing the same way!! Some things you never forget!

 

[OzAnnie]

You have no idea how much I am enjoying this forum - and all the happy memories it brings back. I think it was in Caspe that I saw all the herons, nesting on the ruined roof of a convent, and all facing the same way!! Some things you never forget!
View attachment 103171

Hi Stephen
Lovely pic. I would have called them storks. Are they one and the same?

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Hi Stephen
Lovely pic. I would have called them storks. Are they one and the same?

Of course they're storks. My flipping memory!!!! S xx
Have corrected my original comment!

 

[Theatregal]

Ahhh, a great morning - a cup of tea and a catch up with your journey, wonderful photos and other's memories of this camino @Bad Pilgrim !! SCI Really enjoying what you write!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

You have no idea how much I am enjoying this forum - and all the happy memories it brings back. I think it was in Caspe that I saw all the herons, nesting on the ruined roof of a convent, and all facing the same way!! Some things you never forget!
View attachment 103171

Thanks,

I have been reading your account! And Alan and Laurie's contributions when I run out of accomodation! But it seems everything adventurous happens to others ,while I am just stomping around and sleeping away the day in the hostals...!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I’m assuming you have the news about the new Escatrón albergue. Much better than the cement block, windowless cells Annie and I stayed in down by the river. Kind of spooky.

The albergue is new and no screaming teenagers to deal with.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/Álvaro-lazaga-walking-again.69861/#post-919824

Oh no, too late... Already booked Pension Mayor in Escatrón. No brawling teenagers, but hordes of doves that have their nest right above my bed!! (Not inside the room though... That would have been rather awkward). Sounds as if they are fighting, mating and raising their kids at the same time. I hope they won't be doing that all night...

 

[NorthernLight]

Small hijack, because I can’t resist...

“For Whom the Bell Tolls” ...

This book was required reading in one of my high school English literature classes. It was about the most impactful novel I’d ever read. But I wish they’d used it to teach some European history as well.

Perhaps it should be on my e-reading list on my next camino.

Back to program...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 7: Caspe - Escatrón, 30 kms

I left Caspe at around 06:00 since it would be a long day. Some bars were already open. But I decided to wait until Chiprana (9 kms) to have breakfast. My hostal El Surtidor wouldn't open until 07:00: too late for a pilgrim who walks like a turtle and who needs to compete with the midday heat.

Waymarking in Aragón has been impeccable so far. But today I got to this split in the road. (First picture below.) I continued to the left for a while, according to the rule that, if nothing else is indicated, one should follow the road from which one came (in my case: continue on tarmac to left). But there were no arrows, and according to my GPS I was walking in the exact opposite direction to Chiprana. So I walked back to the point of confusion. I was really annoyed by now. Finally I went to the right, which was obviously wrong after all because there were no indications of anything thereafter. But with my GPS I could see I was heading directly to Chiprana, and the road was beautiful and easy walked. First a soft ascent to some kind of plateau, were I could see Chiprana in front of me. Had I not known better, I would have thought I was walking on a calzada romana?! Then down to a flowery country road. Only at the roundabout outside town did the arrows reappear. I think I just invented an alternative camino to Chiprana! Or was it the Camino? I don't understand anything of what happened there...

Chiprana is not in the Camino, but so close you might as well pay a visit. The café El Mirador is only a few hundred meters off Camino and there are probably more bars and places to buy food and stuff. From the roundabout the Camino descends on the road, with impressive views of the lake Maquinenza and of Chiprana itself from a distance. Gronze says that you go off road to the left at 300 mtrs from the roundabout, but this is not true. First you leave to the right, on a trail that goes near the lake. This detour is clearly made to offer an even better view of the lake and of Chiprana (see pictures below), instead of walking down the boring motorway. I say, Chiprana looks good from every angle and it is not even on the Camino...! Getting close to the clear-blue water was a treat in the hot, dry weather. I don't know if swimming is allowed, but as you can see in one of the pictures, you come all the way down to the shoreline.

Then a dry walk through a dusty countryside reminiscent of yesterday, merciless under the sun. But more variated; I really liked the landscape today. There is another lake close to the Camino, Balsa Salada, but I didn't check it out. This would be my longest stage so far and I wanted to arrive in Escatrón before it got too hot.

The last slog is next to the motorway (dirt road), and then a slog after the slog on a smaller road (tarmac) to enter Escatrón. Pensión Mayor is easy to find on Calle Mayor near the church. I obviously wanted an individual room, which I got for 26 euros. But with four beds?! The room is enormous (last picture) and the TV is the size of a movie screen. Is it a pensión or a Casa rural?! Anyway, I don't mind the luxury...!

Tomorrow an even longer challenge: to Quinto!

 

[palmah]

Day 7: Caspe - Escatrón, 30 kms

I left Caspe at around 06:00 since it would be a long day. Some bars were already open. But I decided to wait until Chiprana (9 kms) to have breakfast. My hostal El Surtidor wouldn't open until 07:00: too late for a pilgrim who walks like a turtle and who needs to compete with the midday heat.

Waymarking in Aragón has been impeccable so far. But today I got to this split in the road. (First picture below.) I continued to the left for a while, according to the rule that, if nothing else is indicated, one should follow the road from which one came (in my case: continue on tarmac to left). But there were no arrows, and according to my GPS I was walking in the exact opposite direction to Chiprana. So I walked back to the point of confusion. I was really annoyed by now. Finally I went to the right, which was obviously wrong after all because there were no indications of anything thereafter. But with my GPS I could see I was heading directly to Chiprana, and the road was beautiful and easy walked. First a soft ascent to some kind of plateau, were I could see Chiprana in front of me. Had I not known better, I would have thought I was walking on a calzada romana?! Then down to a flowery country road. Only at the roundabout outside town did the arrows reappear. I think I just invented an alternative camino to Chiprana! Or was it the Camino? I don't understand anything of what happened there...

Chiprana is not in the Camino, but so close you might as well pay a visit. The café El Mirador is only a few hundred meters off Camino and there are probably more bars and places to buy food and stuff. From the roundabout the Camino descends on the road, with impressive views of the lake Maquinenza and of Chiprana itself from a distance. Gronze says that you go off road to the left at 300 mtrs from the roundabout, but this is not true. First you leave to the right, on a trail that goes near the lake. This detour is clearly made to offer an even better view of the lake and of Chiprana (see pictures below), instead of walking down the boring motorway. I say, Chiprana looks good from every angle and it is not even on the Camino...! Getting close to the clear-blue water was a treat in the hot, dry weather. I don't know if swimming is allowed, but as you can see in one of the pictures, you come all the way down to the shoreline.

Then a dry walk through a dusty countryside reminiscent of yesterday, merciless under the sun. But more variated; I really liked the landscape today. There is another lake close to the Camino, Balsa Salada, but I didn't check it out. This would be my longest stage so far and I wanted to arrive in Escatrón before it got too hot.

The last slog is next to the motorway (dirt road), and then a slog after the slog on a smaller road (tarmac) to enter Escatrón. Pensión Mayor is easy to find on Calle Mayor near the church. I obviously wanted an individual room, which I got for 26 euros. But with four beds?! The room is enormous (last picture) and the TV is the size of a movie screen. Is it a pensión or a Casa rural?! Anyway, I don't mind the luxury...!

Tomorrow an even longer challenge: to Quinto!

What started as a frustrating day ended very well indeed. Sweet dreams!

 

[VNwalking]

Good morning, good peregrino!
What a day.

I don't understand anything of what happened there...

But you arrived in the end, which is all that matters. Sometimes understanding is impossible.

Looking at the map, I see that the Ebro where you are does some magnificent loop-de-loops. So this morning's exit will be something.

Buen camino, and thank you for sharing!
And may you be safe from the screaming teens.

 

[Theatregal]

The question is - which bed did you choose?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

The question is - which bed did you choose?

I went by the standards of any XIV century pilgrim. I chose the one next to the air conditioner!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 8: Escatrón - Quinto, 32 kms

Today was a day of confusing waymarking and dead ends. It did not start well. I left Escatrón in the darkness, albeit with a beautiful full moon going down behind the town. Soon after the monastery, the trail went uphill amongst the bushes. I lost the arrows a few times in the beginning but nothing serious. Guidebook talks of a lunar landscape in this area. It was a peculiar sight indeed, with small canyons, boulders and rocks all around. But too dark in the morning to take any good pictures.

I kept following the indications to Sástago and the yellow arrows: still they left me on the asphalt much further east than both Gronze and the guidebook show. If it is really only 8 kms between Escatrón and Sástago, I needed more than 2 hours to complete 4 of them. Not even Abuela is that slow. So something has changed here. Besides, another indication wanted me to walk the remaining 4 kms to Sástago... in the wrong direction and on the wrong side of the river. Ok, I know that the Camino toss and turn. But was there a bridge in this direction that would let me over the river to town, and if so, why didn't it show up on Google Maps?? I angrily marched in the opposite direction, to reach the point that both Gronze and Guidebook had indicated on the carretera. From there, there were arrows leading the way down to a bridge and into Sástago. Once again: no idea what is going on in the area.

Between Alborge and Alforque, the Camino follows the road parallell to the Ebro and offered the best view of the river today. It then leaves the road to follow a path in the shadow close to the river. After some hundred meters it turned into an overgrown trail next to a field, so I backtracked and followed the carretera instead. Between Alforque and Velilla del Ebro there should be a Camino that separates from the motorway: I did not see it so I ended up on more asphalt all the way to Velilla del Ebro. There was very little traffic on this road though. Instead of the lunar landscape in the morning, it was like a highway through Mars, with fields and rocks in reddish tones. Then there are arrows and poles that tell you to leave tarmac outside Velilla del Ebro to reach Gelsa on a country road. That way was overgrown as well, and dissolved in a field after only 50 mtrs. So more carretera it was. The asphalt itself was not the problem, but I suspect I added kms by not following the Camino. And I had already walked longer than expected in the morning.

I made three breaks which further slowed me down, but they were necessary. I had a break in Alborge, where there is a café next to the church that is also a shop where you can buy basic groceries. I stopped in the only café that was open in Velilla del Ebro (and it closes at 14:30), where I also went to check out the remains of a Roman town: Celsa. See the two pictures below that look... Roman. That's a calzada romana if I ever saw one...! I also stopped in the café in the tidy, middle-classy town of Gelsa, to regain forces for the final battle to reach Quinto. But when I left Gelsa it was already three o' clock in the afternoon and I felt I had next to no energy left. I crossed the railway as soon as I could to seek refuge in Hostal Plaza in Quinto, 26 euros. No sightseeing in Quinto, since I felt slightly ill after the effort of getting here. I need a good night's sleep...

I am doing a shorter stage tomorrow so I will stay in Fuentes de Ebro, 18 kms from here. Tag along!

 

[palmah]

I angrily marched in the opposite direction, to reach the point that both Gronze and Guidebook had indicated on the carretera.

"Serenity Now", abuela!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 9: Quinto - Fuentes de Ebro, 18 kms

So a short day it was. Aaall along the railway. I didn't know what to do of my camera (cell phone) since there was not much to see... I took a photo of the monotony (first picture) and of a dangerous railway crossing (second picture). Take note of the yellow arrow on the pillar that urges you to walk straight across the rails...! The third picture is when I am approaching Fuentes de Ebro, still fairly early before midday.

I first tried to get hold of Hostal San Miguel in Fuentes. It is added on the sheet that the author keeps online with updates from the guidebook. Well, the last update on the list was from 2017... San Miguel didn't answer and Google Maps deemed it "permanently closed". I caught a room in Hostal Texas instead: very centric. But long, dark and gloomy corridors, a bit outdated... 25 euros is ok, I think.

As I arrived early I have time to go on sightseeing in Fuentes de Ebro now. I feel much better today than yesterday; I think a short day served me well. There is even a laundromat in town!! My favorite kind of historical building! Oh, I guess I have time for them churches and monuments as well. I am just about to go for a walk now: let's see I can find anything of interest.

One hour later

Spacious and lovely plaza, right next to the hostal. The church also looked nice, with some glistening greenish parts you maybe can spot in the photo below (dome; tiles/roof). I wanted to check out the inside, but when I approached the door I could hear someone singing, or rather shouting, their lungs out in there. A concert? Well, I opened the door and stepped in. A dozen of people turned around and stared at me. I don't know what I interrupted, probably a wedding? I quickly closed the door and hurried away. I think I will do better with a visit to the laundromat...

Tomorrow is an awfully long stage, to Zaragoza, but I will give it a try. Stay tuned!

 

[VNwalking]

Holy ensaladilla rusa, a laundromat!!
You're making good progress, BP, so I hope you're able to get your daily quota of napolitanas to fuel all that real walking. We have it easier on this end, following along.
Gracias and buen camino! I'm really enjoying this vicarious journey.

 

[NorthernLight]

Historical laundromats and XIV Century air conditioners ... you are so lucky!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Holy ensaladilla rusa, a laundromat!!
You're making good progress, BP, so I hope you're able to get your daily quota of napolitanas to fuel all that real walking. We have it easier on this end, following along.
Gracias and buen camino! I'm really enjoying this vicarious journey.

I will need a trough of napolitanas if I am to reach Zaragoza tomorrow...!

 

[SabsP]

I will need a trough of napolitanas if I am to reach Zaragoza tomorrow...!

All the best! At least it is very flat!

 

[VNwalking]

I will need a trough of napolitanas if I am to reach Zaragoza tomorrow

A big take-away box?
Buen camino and may the day be kind to you!

 

[peregrina2000]

I crossed the railway as soon as I could to seek refuge in Hostal Plaza in Quinto, 26 euros.

Just hoping they have managed to extricate those two poor souls by now.

I got bitten by something either here or in the now-closed San Miguel, which was a basic nice place btw. I remember all that craziness with the river and the confusion, but no memory of how I resolved it.

I also remember getting lost between Quinto and Fuentes, which seems to be something you avoided. So give yourself a pat on the back.

It’s a long slog from Fuentes to Zaragoza, but I remember waking up with bite marks all over me, realizing that it was a weekend, and just high tailing it into Zaragoza non-stop.

I will spare you the ordeal with the hotel, the bugs, the laundromat (yes there is one in Zaragoza, too), and all the rest, but suffice it to say I had far less time than I had hoped to see Zaragoza. Beautiful place, even though the cathedral is not my cup of tea.

Really enjoying your posts, BP. I don’t have much time for the forum these days unfortunately, but your thread is one of my go-to must-reads!

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Thanks for posting @Bad Pilgrim , very enjoyable story and photos.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 10: Fuentes de Ebro - Zaragoza, 33 kms

I thought this would be the sloggiest day of them all. Not a bit! I started before six in the morning and arrived in Zaragoza at one o'clock, which is fast being me. It probably helped that I had to run from mosquitos for the first ten kms. (Just like yesterday, which I forgot to add in my entry.) This must be the downside of walking in summer, if it is constantly along a canal or a waterway... Also because it has been raining the last week (there was even rain in the afternoon yesterday), those flying monsters must have multiplied in numbers. And there I come by in the morning, like a two-legged buffet to feast on! I had to fight for my life all the way to El Burgo de Ebro.

Since today was Sunday morning, I knew that I would need to put extra effort in finding an open café. Especially as I had started walking so early. I had to go searching for a while in the streets of both El Burgo de Ebro and La Cartuja Baja, but I soon found them. I can hear the rattling of coffee cups miles away!

The storks and their nests were sprinkled along the whole stage today. Together with their babies they curiously watched me from above as I walked by. The first picture is the typical scenery of today: dirt road with stork nest. In the second picture I managed to catch five of them in the same photo. That's an entire community! At least they stay where they are, and don't come at me like those darned mosquitos. If there are few pictures from today's walk, it is because I couldn't stop or those monsters would come and eat me raw.

Guidebook is outdated: the walk next to the Ebro is longer now, which is correctly shown in Gronze. There are several kms along the river on a walking-and-bicycle-road which is apparently very popular with the Zaragoozers. Trees along the road provide some shadow, and on your left, between the trees and the bushes, you can see the city steadily getting nearer. There were walkers and cyclists all around me, and coming from both directions. I think most people walking were heading back to Zaragoza though, since we were approaching the midday heat. It got really hot as I entered the city and rang the bell at my Hostal Cataluña (26 euros on Booking). This means I have plenty of time to go for a walk in Zaragoza... when temperatures drop.

Later in the evening

Wow, I was not prepared for the beauty of Zaragoza! La Seo (the cathedral), the basílica... I didn't go inside, but I strolled on the Plaza and in the streets for a long time. I took some touristy pictures that you can see below. I wish I had time to see the Goya exposition next to the square! And what a surprise: next to the Seo is... the chapel of San Pascual Bailón, my homie and favorite saint from the town of Orito on the Camino de la Lana! (La cueva de San Pascual !) What on Earth is he doing here?? I must catch up on some Spanish history to solve this puzzle, so no more writing tonight... See you tomorrow in Alagón.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Just hoping they have managed to extricate those two poor souls by now.

I think they have removed them, I don't remember seeing them! And the door to the Pensión looked different. Or I am just not paying attention to details...

also remember getting lost between Quinto and Fuentes, which seems to be something you avoided.

Hm, I will go back to the maps tomorrow - I think I know what could have happened. For example, there is a detour to go near the river (+ 4 kms), could that be where you went?

 

[OzAnnie]

Day 10: Fuentes de Ebro - Zaragoza, 33 kms

Hola BP.
Enjoying your live thread immensely/ it’s the closest I’ll be to Spain this year. Great pics .

And there I come by in the morning, like a two-legged buffet to feast on! I had to fend for my life all the way to El Burgo de Ebro.

This made me laugh (sorry ) - but it made me think that the mosquitoes had ordered ‘Uber eats ‘ and you arrived with the meal.

The storks and their nests were sprinkled along the whole stage today. Together with their babies they curiously watched me from above as I walked by

Those cheeky storks! Every high place ! It must be a nightmare for line maintenance. I have so many photos of storks and nests and babies in nests but I continue to pull out my phone. Adorable.

You’ve really found your stride now I see.
‘Up and off early - isn’t that just the best time / seeing the glow of day breaking? ‘

Buen camino

 

[VNwalking]

This made me laugh (sorry ) - but it made me think that the mosquitoes had ordered ‘Uber eats ‘ and you arrived with the meal

Me too. Sorry, @Bad Pilgrim .

next to the Seo is... the chapel of San Pascual Bailón, my homie and favorite saint from the town of Orito on the Camino de la Lana! (La cueva de San Pascual !) What on Earth is he doing here??

I don't know, but as of 2012, this chapel was reported to be (almost) always open!

La capilla de la plaza de la Seo de Zaragoza que no cierra: 24 horas abierta

<a href="/tags/lugares/zaragoza.html" title="Zaragoza">Zaragoza</a> duerme. La mayoría de las luces de los edificios están apagadas, algunos semáforos cambian d

amp-heraldo-es.cdn.ampproject.org

Zaragoza looks beautiful! Onward tomorrow to Alagon?

 

[peregrina2000]

I’m on my phone and can’t open the pictures, but I will! I was also surprised at the beauty of Zaragoza’s central core. Don’t know why I was uninformed. Unfortunately I had to spend a lot of time in the laundromat and hunting down some spray for my gear.

By now you’ve already left Zaragoza, but I hope you didn’t have my bad luck. I couldn’t find arrows and opened what turned out to be old GPS tracks, done before the fancy new train station was built. As a result I was going up and down, over barriers to get on closed streets, turning what should have been a nice walk along the river into a nightmare. I’m assuming again that you were smarter found the walk from the cathedral.

Since I’ve been late to these posts just let me give a heads up for Gallur in case @sabine doesn’t chime in. She recommended El Colono for lunch and it was great.
Loving your posts, BP!!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 11: Zaragoza - Alagón, 27 kms

Today was below 30 degrees C so it turned out to be a perfect day for walking. In spite of this I stopped in so many small towns for a break: I thought I would never arrive in Alagón. There are only a few kms between them on this stage... Very tempting to grab a snack. The Camino mostly goes straight for the church and then back to the fields again, but in each little town I left the arrows for a while and went snooping on my own. One croissant here, one café con leche there... I would have arrived at least one hour earlier in Alagón if I hadn't stopped in every corner!

The only part that dragged was the nine kms in the morning when I left Zaragoza. The river walk in the city would never end... and then an uninteresting road to Monzalbarba that would never appear. The only thing that caught my attention was a group of youngsters who were out jogging together; they passed me several times on my way into Monzalbarba. Since they all had the same clothes I assumed it was the local football team. Monzalbarba Devils? Red Socks Zaragoza? But there were girls running together with the boys. I thought it very progressive to have a mixed soccer team. But after having seen a sign about a military base or something in Monzalbarba, and checked with Wikipedia, I rather think they were soldiers training together.

After the boring Monzalbarba, the Camino was great. More flowers and greenery than I have seen before (the irrigation canals were everywhere) and the final walk next to the river Jalón was wonderful.

Houses in this part of Spain are colorful: painted in light blue, deep red, or green.... not the blinding white as in the pueblos of Andalucía or Extremadura. The churches were interesting, and the highlight was, of course, the tower in Utebo that I could see from a long distance. See photos below. Most of the towns were tidy and well kept: probably by affluent people working in Zaragoza but living a more quiet life in the pueblos in the countryside.

I am staying at the Hostal Los Ángeles in Alagón. A bit pricey (39 euros) but strategically placed with ATM, cafés and a laundromat within walking distance. I might as well pay 39 euros today since I will probably be sleeping in a ditch tomorrow. I have phoned the albergue in Gallur, the Ayuntamiento in Gallur, the hostales listed in the guidebook in Gallur (but they probably ceased to exist ten years ago anyway. Stupid guidebook!) No answer. All I can do is to walk to Gallur tomorrow and see what happens...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

By now you’ve already left Zaragoza, but I hope you didn’t have my bad luck. I couldn’t find arrows and opened what turned out to be old GPS tracks, done before the fancy new train station was built. As a result I was going up and down, over barriers to get on closed streets, turning what should have been a nice walk along the river into a nightmare. I’m assuming again that you were smarter found the walk from the cathedral.

I remember Gronze or Guidebook saying something about a train station, yes. But I also knew the Camino would follow the river. So I walked back the same way I came the day before and continued along the river walk. There were arrows everywhere, and granite-like mojones with the shell regularly along the way. So they must have brushed up the waymarking in recent years.

Did you get rid of the bed bugs after Zaragoza??

 

[VNwalking]

All I can do is to walk to Gallur tomorrow and see what happens

Yeah, some hiccup there, apparantly. Jabbapappa was there a little while back and here's what he said:

There's some administrative mic-mac at the Albergue, as they need a certificate issued by people do not work on Sundays. See if something can be worked out.

The place is open, but they have not re-established their guest ID notification measures with the Guardia Civil post-reopening yet, so that you can eat or drink here, but not sleep.

I think that they actually were thinking about how to get 'round this for me, but there was a guy at the bar, we got talking, and he offered a place to sleep in the cabin of a lorry/truck ; then it turned out that my compañero José had made friends with others in that local group of friends that I had sort of got in with earlier in my own way, so that the already kind offer of a place to sleep became a cerveza party in a bar in town, a separate offer of a place to stay for José, and a grilled chorizo feast later. Very pleasant, and I slept most excellently. Cold shower, and it was fine,

So maybe they have that certification, maybe not. Anyway, ask around; it sounds like a town with heart.

And heas-up if you contemplate going a little farther on:

Mallén:
Albergue status : CERRADO.

He stayed in Ribaforada, but did not mention where, so I'm guessing the albergue's open there? It was a congenial place, he said .

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Yeah, some hiccup there, apparantly. Jabbapappa was there a little while back and here's what he said:



So maybe they have that certification, maybe not. Anyway, ask around; it sounds like a town with heart.

And heas-up if you contemplate going a little farther on:

He stayed in Ribaforada, but did not mention where, so I'm guessing the albergue's open there? It was a congenial place, he said .

Thanks... I am off to Gallur now. I am hoping for the best!

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Day 8: Escatrón - Quinto, 32 kms

I am doing a shorter stage tomorrow so I will stay in Fuentes de Ebro, 18 kms from here. Tag along!

So many happy memories brought back by your beautiful photos. I would be totally incapable of walking the distances you walked each day! 20 kms is my maximum, and I mean maximum!! Onward you go, Bad Pilgrim!!! Steve in England.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

MOSQUITOS: a plague in the life of a peregrino. I walked the Ebro in April and May 2015 and bought anti-mosquito spray from the local chemist. Sprayed on face and arms and anywhere the mossie might go, the spray lasts for about 7 hours. I've still go the can in my bureau - a bit out-of-sell-by now!!! Keep going, Bad Pilgrim. We're all with you in spirit!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 12: Alagón - Mallén, 32 kms

When I left Alagón at 05:45 I didn't know where I would spend the night. But I was pretty sure it wouldn't be Gallur. The only hostal was full according to Booking, and also when I called them to be certain. The albergue at the train station and the Ayuntamiento didn't answer.

Before Gallur, I walked through two small villages, too early to grab a coffee. Everything was closed. When I arrived at the third village, Luceni, I found the stylish bar Lisboa where I could finally have breakfast. Luceni looks like a nice place with all the facilities one might need for the day. There is a Día supermarket close to the Camino, and my mouth started watering... but I had no time to loose. I wanted to reach Gallur as soon as possible, to see what was up with the Ayuntamiento and the albergue that had apparently gone on strike.

On the way, I met this cute donkey that made funny faces to me. And a mysterious island that figures in Don Quijote, as explained by the information panel by the river. But all the while I was worrying about where to spend the night, so I found it difficult to relax.

In Gallur I knocked on the door of the Ayuntamiento. No answer. I walked up to the albergue and found it to be open. There were people at the terrace and in the bar, but not so many as to think they would be full. I was hopeful - but the owners told me they were waiting for a large group from Sevilla to fill up the place. Since the owners were new, they didn't want to take in an extra person; they didn't want no hustle with the Guardia Civil. I kind of understood them and wasn't too disappointed: I had a feeling this would happen.

I phoned the only hostal in Mallén, Hostal Pinocho, 10 more kms, but they were full as well. They had an individual room with a shared bathroom, but Abuela was sure that her construction workers wouldn't like to share it with someone else. Hmm, isn't that the point with a shared bathroom...? To share it? But I didn't insist; I was sure I could find something else.

10 more kms and I arrived in Mallén. The Camino between Gallur and Mallén is easy walked, alternating between gravel and tarmac. Alan wrote that it is pretty: absolutely. And the little bridge over the imperial canal was nice. But I have no pictures from this part as I didn't feel like stopping for photos. I was too stressed out about the albergue situation.

My throat was burning and I entered the first bar I saw. I sank down on a chair. I soon understood that there was no more accomodation in the vicinity. The albergue in Mallén is still closed, as confirmed by the villagers at the bar; Cortes two kms away looked empty on Google; Ribaforada was 13 kms away and the guidebook only lists the polideportivo (as of 2006). I was prepared to spend the night outdoors. Unless... I phoned Abuela in Hostal Pinocho again, to see if I could have that room without using the shower. It was ok!

The first woman who attended to me in the hostal hastily repeated that they were full. But Abuela soon emerged from the kitchen to explain the situation to her miserably uninformed daughter. And more: she told me that the construction workers wouldn't be back before 5 o'clock, so I could take a shower before this! You go, Abuela!! She also mentioned en passant that the reason the workers weren't keen on company was Covid. Ah, I should have thought of that: not sharing the bathroom with strangers made more sense to me now. Or are they being over-sensitive? I don't know.

There is not much to see in Mallén. According to the barman, the village is on the decline with many activities and businesses outsourced to neighboring towns, such as Gallur. The pandemic hasn't helped either. I for one is very grateful to be in a hostal here, instead of being chased by wolves all night long and eaten by boars in the wilderness. Luckily there was no problem finding a place to stay in Tudela, where I go tomorrow...

To be continued!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Keep going, Bad Pilgrim. We're all with you in spirit!

Thanks, it helped me pushing forward today as I desperately looked for accomodation. I told myself: if I don't find anything, it will at least be a funny story to share on the Forum !