The problem is, there IS no other suitable building on the camino on that mountain path.
I stayed at Borda about a year after they had renovated their building. They didn’t open until mid-afternoon (I forget the exact time), so some friends and I stopped at Orisson for lunch.
After lunch the staff started clearing the restaurant and told us we can check in now (thinking we had reservations at Orisson). We innocently replied that we were going a bit further to Borda.
Well! The boss then came along, briskly removed plates and cups (we hadn’t yet finished our drinks) and told us in no uncertain terms to get a move on.
It was very misty and wet outside and we had to hang around in the cold drizzle at Borda (there was no shelter), for an hour, before he opened at the designated time.
We were then all herded into the backpack and boot room where we were given the rules of the place and of the camino. As a veteran pilgrim I found it all very patronizing, but realized it was a good introduction for the newbies, although we had had to go through it all already at the first gite in St Jean! I could see some of my friends were getting a bit impatient, being wet and cold from having to wait outside for an hour. I resigned myself to waiting for the shower after everyone else was done.
Later, talking with the owner we happened to mention our rude dismissal from Orisson. He raised his eyebrows but didn’t seem overly surprised. He wouldn’t go into any details, but he made it clear that he was not welcomed when he started renovating Borda and is still not welcome (except by us!).
Anyway, Borda is a fabulous place to stay, if very formal, but because of that I much prefer Orisson for its (open all day) bar, good convivial restaurant and joyful social scene (despite having been chased off by the owner one time).
Next time I’ll go via Valcarlos again – just as good as Orisson and Borda!
alberguederoncesvalles.com
