Best Unique and Comfortable Albergues on the Camino Francés with Communal Experiences

[trecile]

Depending on your pace - 31.

Actually, more than that if he includes all of the towns that he might want to stay in.
I use a spreadsheet on my phone for such things.

 

[stevepjq]

Haha - good point. Then you would need approximately 189!!

 

[jsalt]

Good albergue. Stayed there more than once. No curfew and has a pass code to get in. Cool hospitalero(s). Once when I stayed there I went out drinking and eating till 2:00 am with fellow pilgrims and the hospitalero let me sleep in a couple of more hours that morning and shower and have some of the breakfast they spread out before I left. Great having that little cubicle to sleep late in.

It is perfect for the pilgrim in the city. Able to experience the nightlife without having to be back by 10pm. And MOST pilgrims appreciate that they MUST be quiet when they tiptoe back in at 2am!

 

[SeñorJacques]

Actually, more than that if he includes all of the towns that he might want to stay in.
I use a spreadsheet on my phone for such things.

I've been using a custom Google Map to save these and all the other albergue suggestions I've collected over the course of planning my Camino - which I plan on downloading to my phone as I'm setting off so I can have an easy way of finding them while I'm walking. (Happy to share if anyone wants to DM me for the link.)

And big thanks to everyone who has contributed their favorites here (not to mention all the rest of the information on this forum). Your generosity and insights are truly invaluable.

 

[pasiño a pasiño]

Please don't forget "Albergue de Maribel Roncal" in CizurMenor.
Haven't met a more devoted woman like Maribel! Dedicated her life to the pilgrims.

 

[Richmond Gardner]

I want to get a notebook to enter all the albergue suggestions. I will try one page per town, beginning in Pamplona. Question: how many pages will I need?

I would just get whichever guide pamphlet your chose, and make a notes on the page for each town that favorites are in. I am sure that many of them will already be listed, so you can put a star next to it. That way you don't end up with extraneous material.

 

[Richmond Gardner]

OR... if you are using a smart phone, the Buen Camino app lists accommodations all along the way, and you could just make notes on your phone. One really nice feature of the app is that it has real time GPS, so you always know how to find the camino.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Indeed. Albergue Herbert Simon.Years ago.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/albergue-at-azofra.8241/

Albergue de Peregrinos Albergue parroquial Herbert Simon - Azofra (La Rioja)

Albergue inaugurado en el año 1992, a iniciativa de un grupo de antiguos peregrinos alemanes de Colonia, coordinados por Herbert Simon, que contagiaron con su e

www.ruralgia.com

Is it still open???

 

[Kathy F.]

There was a very well known Padré who ran that albergue , he served garlic soup. When I last stopped there he had just passed and the albergue was closed. I have been to the BAR next door quite a few times - they always seem to have attitude towards pilgrims who actually are almost their sole source of income? The last time I went there , all the staff were as miserable as hell itself , even the dogs next to the open fire were miserable. My walking companion and I continued to Ages , a far happier place with a choice of at least three albergues. I would not stop at Ortega again , even if there is a 6 inch nail going through my boot.

I very much understand. When I stayed the second time, although there had been some improvements, the overall atmosphere was . . . grim.

That second time, I had breakfast the next day at Ages. It was more crowded, noisier, busier. I understand why it would be more of a draw for pilgrims than San Juan.

Nevertheless, the Saint calls me back. If I ever chose to be a hospitalera, it would be there to try to offer some welcome, dignity and comfort to the pilgrims who stayed there.

BTW, there were LOTS of other albergues I enjoyed much more. I tried not to stay in the same places twice. This list is giving me lots of new ideas. But this list is also going to make those places very crowded in the coming months - good for the albergue, bad for me!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

I've been using a custom Google Map to save these and all the other albergue suggestions I've collected over the course of planning my Camino

I also do this and my list is both incomplete and public and may be seen at https://maps.app.goo.gl/mBxY8gXkCTuFSeZk8

It is charming, don't you think, how going off topic gives these threads much more interest and value.

BTW, @SabineP and others, I have sometimes taken the liberty of including the Forum name of people who recommended places. As this is a public list then if you prefer that your forum name is not used then pm me and I will edit the list.

Lately I have stopped using Forum names.

 

[trecile]

Please don't forget "Albergue de Maribel Roncal" in CizurMenor.
Haven't met a more devoted woman like Maribel! Dedicated her life to the pilgrims.

Yes, I had almost forgotten Maribel Roncal. I stayed there in 2017 because I walked during San Fermin, and Pamplona was a madhouse!

 

[alhartman]

IMO MMe Roncal is one of the 'legends of the Camino'. Along with Marcelino Lobato, the 'Fonfria Crepe Extortion Lady', Fr Jose Maria Alonso, Tomas Martinez, Jesus Jato, Eduardo Marino, Gordon Bell, and others that don't come to mind quickly anymore. And I always stop at Pequeno Potala in the Valcarce vallwy--perfect start to assault the oCebreiro hill (a relative easy 10km). Luis and Carlos speak every language and even cook a fantastic vegan/vegetarian meal.
Truth is, there are many favorites and they change with time. I just try to pick those with communal dinners and go along for the ride.

 

[RJM]

I want to get a notebook to enter all the albergue suggestions. I will try one page per town, beginning in Pamplona. Question: how many pages will I need?

Up to you. Besides, notebooks are cheap.

 

[Jodean]

I tried to reserve with Maribel for April and asked if they would be open this spring. Answer received yesterday, said they are closed.

 

[SabsP]

@Anniesantiago : as far as I can see the albergue is closed.

@Doughnut NZ : thank you for being so considerate for asking about the " tagging ". Perfectly ok for me.

 

[mspath]

It may be an "hospitalera full of heart" who make a place special.
Especially in winter.

November 2014 trudging from Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero was COLD, bleak and solitary.

With great relief I finally arrived at the simple adobe albergue Domenico Laffi and met the friendly hospitalera named Alicia "like Alice in Wonderland!" as she said.

Wonderland indeed! Alice who had just arrived herself would be resident hospitalera for the next two weeks but already had an open fire warming the downstairs common room (there was no other heat) and her lunch was cooking in the kitchen. One other soaked cold pilgrim, Carlos from Madrid, came in. Since it was Sunday and both bars and the village shop apparently closed Alice immediately set the table for three and graciously invited us both to share her meal.

Thus the delicious HOT rice, vegs and salad were stretched with his cheese and my biscuits/bananas. In the spirit of Wonderland we all drank several steaming mugs of HOT sugared tea. Alice enjoyed recounting her many camino memories. I sensed that wherever she might be it would quickly be her 'home'; across the years the camino had become her way of life....

Across the years this visit remains another unforgetable winter memory for me.

 

[Zordmot]

I guess every albergue would be my favourite right now, if only I could be on the camino again!

But to stay on topic: it would probably help to know which places you already stayed at and really liked, and/or which ones not so much and why.

This older thread might also be helpful:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/what-is-the-one-albergue-that-you-would-say-not-to-miss.10443/

Thanks!! Love this line: I guess every albergue would be my favourite right now, if only I could be on the camino again!

 

[MarkyD]

Hi everyone! I’m looking forward to my third Camino in April. I’m trying to intentionally not have this one be a replay of previous experiences but to totally be something new. To that end I’m planning on staying in different albergues as much as possible. I’m asking if you have one albergue or BnB or inn on the CF that you’d recommend and a brief explanation of why. My preference are albergues that are unique and comfortable of course and the staff helpful. Beyond that, I like those that offer some kind of interaction such as communal meals, sharing, rituals, blessings, etc. (Municipal albergues tend to be my least favorite) Thanks! Looking forward to your suggestions and stories!

Your post here will no doubt start an interesting thread.

From my 2018 CF, my top 3 would be:

1. Albergue Anfas- Estella (Lizarra), above all for the great hospitalario Koldo and his staff.

2. Albergue Verde - Hospital de Órbigo, for it's superb vegan food, yoga class an cute cats and dogs.

3. El Refugio - La Faba, on the ascent to O Cebreiro - which unfortunately had a serious fire recently. I hope they manage to restore it. It was a very humble place in a small mountain village.

I guess I could name several others, but these three were special to me at the time.
Now, on to finding out what others have written here. Buen Camino (and also Buen No-Camino)

 

[austinpilgrim]

Not an albergue, but Casa Waslala in Belorado is my favorite. It’s a pension catering to pilgrims, and Paul & Belmalyn are wonderful hosts.

 

[Scott Baerman]

Albergue La Finca in Población de Campos. Each bunk is like a tiny room. The upper bunks are accessed via mini staircases instead of ladders. There is an optional communal dinner, and they let you use the washing machine for free.

View attachment 116843View attachment 116844

I also stayed here in the fall of 2016, very much enjoyed the accommodations, the food was a bit more traditional (a dish made with rabbit)

 

[Zordmot]

Such a wonderful post and an opportunity to reminisce! No one has mentioned Beilari in St. Jean. Joseph and his family provide such a wonderful beginning with the communal dinner and the location is conveniently located across from the Pilgrims Office.
Along the route I'd have to say that the two donativos of Granon and Tosantos were my favourite if you're looking for an overall experience of communal dinners, pilgrim blessings with an opportunity to participate, and don't mind sleeping on mats. Similar to this but bunks in a dormitory style room is Santa Maria in Carrion. The singing nuns are lovely and the sound of their voices during the pilgrims mass in the church next door will always be memorable.
Needless to say, I could name more, but I agree with many of the favourites from the previous posts. Buen camino in April!

I share similar memories of the 3 albergues you so fondly speak of!

 

[urbanmamma]

Casa Morgade - 10k after Sarria- is not an albergue. But it's very lovely. And a good dinner.

Loved our night at Casa Morgada.

 

[RJM]

Referencing my compostellas and guidebooks had me remember a few more albergues that I liked enough to remember. This was all pre-pandemic. No telling how many still open or even if they still are how social distancing will effect the albergue capacity, meals and experience. I hope all new/prospective pilgrims realize this. The Camino has changed just like the rest of the world. Don't read old threads and expect it to be like that. Mind you, I hope I am wrong.

Maison Kaserna in St Jean. Communal dinner and breakfast set out the next morning. I also remember all of us at the table singing Ultreia together before we headed out. Was very nice.
The municipal in ValCarlos. Neat little town and nice albergue for those who choose to take the road less traveled.
Jesus y Maria Albergue in Pamplona. Big and crowded but a cool pilgrim's vibe to it.
Municipal albergue in Estella. Another big and crowded one with a vibe to it.
Santo Domingo de Calzada. Albergue Casa del Santo. Cool town and that's another big albergue that has a good vibe. Big common area and I remember pilgrims singing and playing guitar. Garden out back and chickens in coops.
Carrion de los Condes. Albergue Santa Maria run by the nuns. Lots of mentions about it on the forum. Communal dinner. Singing, guitar playing and a pilgrim's mass and blessing at night.
San Martin del Camino municipal. I remember staying there on a cold night in October. A lot of pilgrims there that night. Big communal meal and lots of wine. The hospitalero a really good guy. Kept the wood split and the fireplace going for us as we gathered around it trying to stay warm and drink more vino.
Astorga, Albergue San Javier. Big albergue. Good vibe. I remember there was an American priest walking the Camino there that night and I assisted him with mass he put on in a spare room in the albergue.
Vega de Valcarce, municipal albergue. Cold late October night. Snowstorm coming in and the next morning walk to O'Cebreiro was a winter wonderland of snow. The hospitalero at the municipal in Valcarce kept the wood split and the fireplace going for the few pilgrims that were there. Myself and 4-5 others.

 

[Lleslie]

A couple of my favourites not yet mentioned - Casa Magica, Villatuerta, very caring and kind when I arrived with a heavy cold (2014) giving me a bed next to a wall heater and turning it on for me. The dining room and food was of restaurant quality. Also enjoyed En el Camino in Boadilla del Camino - Eduardo was very welcoming, the garden and pool like an oasis in the Meseta. We had a six bed room just for the 3 of us.

 

[trecile]

A couple of my favourites not yet mentioned - Casa Magica, Villatuerta, very caring and kind when I arrived with a heavy cold (2014)

I also really enjoyed my stay a Casa Magica in 2017. However, the albergue has changed hands since then, so I can't speak to how the new ownership is running it, though the facilities should still be wonderful.

 

[joanneking]

In addition to the places that others have mentioned, I will add Albergue Luz, in Fromista. A very comfortable setting with the most exceptional hosts, Anita and Gabriel, who are living the spirit of the camino. They helped us deal with the bedbugs we arrived with, in the kindest, most compassionate way. We had a lovely conversation with them, about what and why they were creating their lovely, welcoming albergue.

 

[Tony Bobcat]

I'll be walking my first camino this year, so I don't have an albergue contribution. However, I am puzzled over the opinion that the municipals have the least communal interactions, since I am very much looking forward to sitting around, meeting folks. Why is that, and if not the munis, where?

Hi Puttster My first Camino (C F ) I stayed in Municipals, ineteracted with a lot of Pilgrims. Truely enjoyed it. My second Camino were al Private Albergues I found that the food was better but I didn’t meet as many.

 

[mai]

I want to get a notebook to enter all the albergue suggestions. I will try one page per town, beginning in Pamplona. Question: how many pages will I need?

The question is NOT "how many pages", but a 2nd notebook?
There are so many places and Albergues worth of staying on CF, even neighboring villages.
However, we need about 31 days to walk thru CF. If like to experience all, one may need to walk CF many times.... A mathematical question.

A good Albergue, one may stay again and again.
Albergue Leo in Villafranca del Bierzo,
First time, they treated me very delicious spaghetti for lunch in 2018.
2nd time, they treated me a free breakfast in 2019.
The host María told me if I stay the 3rd time, they will invite me to have dinner with them!

 

[Kerry R May]

Albergue La Finca in Población de Campos. Each bunk is like a tiny room. The upper bunks are accessed via mini staircases instead of ladders. There is an optional communal dinner, and they let you use the washing machine for free.

View attachment 116843View attachment 116844

 

[Leon RSA]

Hi everyone! I’m looking forward to my third Camino in April. I’m trying to intentionally not have this one be a replay of previous experiences but to totally be something new. To that end I’m planning on staying in different albergues as much as possible. I’m asking if you have one albergue or BnB or inn on the CF that you’d recommend and a brief explanation of why. My preference are albergues that are unique and comfortable of course and the staff helpful. Beyond that, I like those that offer some kind of interaction such as communal meals, sharing, rituals, blessings, etc. (Municipal albergues tend to be my least favorite) Thanks! Looking forward to your suggestions and stories!

I stayed in a hotel in Los Arcos called the Hostal Suetxe (https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/hostal-suetxe.html?aid=1365032&label=548293-top300) for two evenings, 31 July 2019 and 1 August 2019. Below is an extract from the book I wrote afterwards.​

Juan-Luis, the owner of the hotel is an extraordinary person. In his bar/dining room is a full-scale wood-carved Harley Davidson motorbike, he crafted himself. Not something that vaguely looks like it, but an exact wooden replica of the motorbike. On the wall is a copy of a newspaper article with photos of his full-scale wooden replica of Spanish hero Fernando Alonso's Ferrari F1 racing car.

Every time he sees me, he invites me to sit down with him and enjoy bocata; it is a sandwich with Spanish cured meat and cheese. Then we drink vino tinto from a bota bag (a wineskin made out of leather and used to carry wine). Absolutely a fantastic man. He has mastered the use of a Spanish-English App and that is how we conversed.

 

[Bill905]

Casa Morgade - 10k after Sarria- is not an albergue. But it's very lovely. And a good dinner.

Casa Morgade gets my vote too. An excellent rural setting with nice views, a few curio cabinets, an adequate bar for a cold radler or whatever, the meal was fantastic, fresh Tarta de Santiago, cafe muy caliente, and best of all ... wait for it ... no bunk beds in our room ... and look at the size of those beds!!!

 

[Jopoke]

Albergue de peregrinos Parroquial de Zabaldika: Run by nuns, communal dinner, retreat in the adjoining church.

Albergue de peregrinos Ultreia, Castrojeriz: Communal dinner with a huge old wine press at the table and dinner followed by a tour of tunnels for wine and safety.

Albergue refugio de peregrinos Los Templarios, Manjarín: Roughest place to stay on the Francés, communal lunch and dinner, canine companionship. See Renshaw and RJM above about roughness. Let's call it a medieval albergue and an experience.

Albergue Molino de Marzán: Just beyond Sarria at km 104.5, old mill and pond on sizable lot away from everything, tranquil, lodging in mill, modern outbuilding with kitchen/communal area, bring food or buy from a small selection there.

Albergue de peregrinos Parroquial de Zabaldika: Run by nuns, communal dinner, retreat in the adjoining church.
This stands out as one of my favourites. I found my faith again after staying here. The hosts and nuns where fabulous.

 

[Jopoke]

Albergue de peregrinos Parroquial de Zabaldika: Run by nuns, communal dinner, retreat in the adjoining church.

Albergue de peregrinos Ultreia, Castrojeriz: Communal dinner with a huge old wine press at the table and dinner followed by a tour of tunnels for wine and safety.

Albergue refugio de peregrinos Los Templarios, Manjarín: Roughest place to stay on the Francés, communal lunch and dinner, canine companionship. See Renshaw and RJM above about roughness. Let's call it a medieval albergue and an experience.

Albergue Molino de Marzán: Just beyond Sarria at km 104.5, old mill and pond on sizable lot away from everything, tranquil, lodging in mill, modern outbuilding with kitchen/communal area, bring food or buy from a small selection there.

Albergue de peregrinos Parroquial de Zabaldika: Run by nuns, communal dinner, retreat in the adjoining church.
This stands out as one of my favourites. I found my faith again after staying here. The hosts and nuns where fabulous.

Albergue de peregrinos Parroquial de Zabaldika: Run by nuns, communal dinner, retreat in the adjoining church.

Albergue de peregrinos Ultreia, Castrojeriz: Communal dinner with a huge old wine press at the table and dinner followed by a tour of tunnels for wine and safety.

Albergue refugio de peregrinos Los Templarios, Manjarín: Roughest place to stay on the Francés, communal lunch and dinner, canine companionship. See Renshaw and RJM above about roughness. Let's call it a medieval albergue and an experience.

Albergue Molino de Marzán: Just beyond Sarria at km 104.5, old mill and pond on sizable lot away from everything, tranquil, lodging in mill, modern outbuilding with kitchen/communal area, bring food or buy from a small selection there.

Albergue de peregrinos Parroquial de Zabaldika: Run by nuns, communal dinner, retreat in the adjoining church.

Hi everyone! I’m looking forward to my third Camino in April. I’m trying to intentionally not have this one be a replay of previous experiences but to totally be something new. To that end I’m planning on staying in different albergues as much as possible. I’m asking if you have one albergue or BnB or inn on the CF that you’d recommend and a brief explanation of why. My preference are albergues that are unique and comfortable of course and the staff helpful. Beyond that, I like those that offer some kind of interaction such as communal meals, sharing, rituals, blessings, etc. (Municipal albergues tend to be my least favorite) Thanks! Looking forward to your suggestions and stories!

 

[Zordmot]

I want to get a notebook to enter all the albergue suggestions. I will try one page per town, beginning in Pamplona. Question: how many pages will I need?

I would go with 40 knowing that most people do it in 30-35 stages

 

[Zordmot]

I want to get a notebook to enter all the albergue suggestions. I will try one page per town, beginning in Pamplona. Question: how many pages will I need?

I wrote all the suggestions and put them in order. I can send that to you in a pdf. Let me know

 

[Former member 99816]

Please do, Zord! Info like that can save a whole day of my life!

 

[Former member 99816]

Camino planner implies my note book would need 183 pages

"From Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela

List of 968 lodgings in 183 localities.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Camino planner implies my note book would need 183 pages

"From Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela

List of 968 lodgings in 183 localities.

Sounds like it will be quite a journey!

 

[VNwalking]

Zabaldika, as many have mentioned. Overflowing with caritas!

Casa Ibarola in Pamplona - private albergue with private pods.

El Jardin in Muruzabal - another beautifully done private albergue.

Grañon, iconic for a reason.

Liberanos Domine in Rabé, a private albergue with beautiful hospitality

On the Meseta, stars of the camino for me are
San Anton
San Nicolas
Both are traditional, old-school albergues that thrive on caritas rather than mod cons.

Santa Maria in Carrion. The singing nuns, a beautiful experiece. Separate rooms for men and women. But if the nuns are not there it's not the same place.

San Antonio de Padua in Villar de Mazariffe

La Faba - the Albergue next to the church as you enter the village.

And many others.
What more sticks in my mind are the very few bad experiences. I have to say that my one experience of San Juan de Ortega was the coldest, dankest, and least friendly experience of any on a camino. I wish someone with deep poclets, and a wealth of heart could return this place to the oasis of pilgrim hospitality it once was.

 

[Nick B]

Albergue de peregrino de la santa cruz - Sahagun
Gaucelmo Hostel - Rabanal
Municipal Albergue San Rogue - Molinaseca

The three I enjoyed the most predominantly due to the hospitality and ambience, had no issues with any of the accommodation on the CF as was only ever looking for a bed and shower. Even the Albergue in Astorga where the host was half shot at 2pm and I could only manage a cold shower. Ended up having a few laughs with the other Pilgrims when their communal meal turned into a disaster after the same host implied he was an excellent chef but turned out the opposite.

 

[Solitaire]

Hi everyone! I’m looking forward to my third Camino in April. I’m trying to intentionally not have this one be a replay of previous experiences but to totally be something new. To that end I’m planning on staying in different albergues as much as possible. I’m asking if you have one albergue or BnB or inn on the CF that you’d recommend and a brief explanation of why. My preference are albergues that are unique and comfortable of course and the staff helpful. Beyond that, I like those that offer some kind of interaction such as communal meals, sharing, rituals, blessings, etc. (Municipal albergues tend to be my least favorite) Thanks! Looking forward to your suggestions and stories!

I loved my first one in SJPP which was a gentle intro to dormitory sharing and breakfast and then the BIG Roncevalles albergue which was amazing to see so many people packed in and then getting hurried out while the stars were still shining the next morning. The really early birds fumbling in the dark, flashing lights into everyone's eyes and so forth. Thankfully from there on it became more relaxed but what a beginning to life on the Camino!

 

[trecile]

I loved my first one in SJPP which was a gentle intro to dormitory sharing and breakfast and then the BIG Roncevalles albergue which was amazing to see so many people packed in and then getting hurried out while the stars were still shining the next morning. The really early birds fumbling in the dark, flashing lights into everyone's eyes and so forth. Thankfully from there on it became more relaxed but what a beginning to life on the Camino!

That must have been in the old albergue, before the remodeling and opening of the current building.

Here's an old thread from 2011 talking about the then newly opened Albergue.

 

[Former member 104506]

A big positive shout out to my albergue tonight...Acá y Allá, Urdániz, Navarra. A new one for me. Outstanding!

 

[Jodean]

These were a few of my favorites from this past spring, April & May.
* Logrono, Winederful - great beds with curtains, etc. in a womens dorm with our own bathroom. Lovely breakfast buffet included in the price, (25€) which seemed a bit high at first, but considering they provided all linens and breakfast, it was ok.
* Hospital de Orbigo, Casa de Los Hidalgos - fantastic host, beds with curtains, plugs and lights, separate facilities for men and women, huge garden, lovely common room and a wonderful breakfast buffet for 5€.
* Fonfria, Reboleira - Just a nice set-up with super friendly staff, but the high point is their traditiona, Galacian, communal dinner in their traditional Galacian "hut". Delicious and unique. If you come in with wet boots, they have a drying pipe running the length of the boot racks.
* Ponferrada, Alberuge Guiana - they seemed to have thought about everything a pilgrim needs. Nice to be in a womens dorm with our own bathroom. Huge kitchen and nice common room. Snack and coffee machines available.
* Portomarin, Albergue Huellas Turistico - loved having a single bed in a room with just 3 other women. Friendly staff and a great kitchen and common room.
* Podrouzo, Albergue Mirador de Pedrouzo - they seemed to have thought of everything a pilgrim needs, had a pool, great kitchen and common room and seperate showers with plenty of space to put your things down to get dressed.

I like Albergue Karma in Sansol, but I think they might have closed? Single beds for 6€ and he made a delicious communal meal, served in his stone cellar for 8€.

 

[stevepjq]

Here is another thumbs up for Winderful in Logrono. One of the best on the Camino. I stayed there in April. Just a 5 minute walk to the tapas streets.

 

[MARSKA]

I echo what AlbertaGirl says above: the people who say Municipals are devoid of character are probably thinking of the Xunta-run municipals in Galicia, run by paid functionarios. Out in the great Camino pre-Galicia are many municipals staffed by an international troupe of dedicated volunteers, many of whom are great characters with years of hospitality experience and great tales to tell. There is SO much more to the camino than private pods and hotel-grade perks... it's these old-school (sometimes literally!) places where the Camino as we know it grew up and blossomed. Here is where you often can round up your friends and prepare a truly communal dinner; you wash your clothing in tub and hang it up in the sun; you meet and chat with people from every social strata, from every part of the world. Pilgrims out here take care of themselves and one another instead of paying someone to do it for them. (many parochial albergues have the same vibe, and similar volunteer staff.)
Stop at municipals or parochials in Estella, Najera, Tosantos, San Anton or San Esteban in Castrojeriz, San Nicolas de Puente Fitero, Granon, Calzadilla de la Cueza, Ages, Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, Sahagun, Calzada del Coto, Bercianos del Real Camino, Astorga, O Cebreiro ... and tons of scruffly old places on other caminos. The spirit of the Camino lives there.

Thats what I'm looking for!

 

[Jodean]

This year I would like to add Casa las Almas in Espinosa. German couple run this small albergue. 5 guests in single, comfy beds with linens & the best dinner & breakfast on the Camino so far. Unbelievably helpful too.

Borda gets high marks for comfort & food.

Rosalia in Castrojeriz for single beds, great dinner & breakfast & friendliness

Zabaldika for dinner & lovely atmosphere