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LIVE from the Camino Back on the trail from A Coruna

ficklefancyfree

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Next Camino Ingles Ferrol
Aloha everyone!

Back in April I (mostly) walked from Reading to Southampton. Now I’m finishing this Camino by starting from A Coruna.

I took an evening flight and got into Santiago at 9pm, took the €1 bus and found my hostel before 10:30. I had prebooked one night at the
Albergue la Estacion and I was sent a door code and a video of the hostel beforehand.

It was tipping it down. As I headed to the hostel in near darkness I realised I hadn’t packed my head torch. Ah well, I can always use my phone. I picked this hostel as I was going to get on a bus in the morning so it made sense. I got in fine, grabbed what I needed out of my pack and went to the room and flung my stuff on the upper bunk, then I saw it. Plug sockets…at this point I realised I hadn’t taken a Euro adapter. So far so good, no?

I plugged my phone and it’s measly 23% charge into a power pack. It kept going on and off, not good. When my battery got to 47% I gave up and unplugged it.

The next morning everyone had left by 7am. Blimey, I had planned a really easy itinerary so I wasn’t in the mood to rush off. Plus it was dark outside.

By 9am I was ready, made my way to the bus station and got a ticket for the next bus to A Coruna departing at 10am, arriving in A Coruna by 11am.

I then proceeded to do my errands, get cash out, check. Buy a euro adapter, check. Buy tabacco, hmm all shut today. Of course it’s All Saints Day, or I think Day of the Dead. A friend back home suggested I go to a cemetery and watch families arrive and place flowers on graves, hmm I thought not.

I was at the bus station and Google maps told me it was 40 minutes back the other way to reach the ‘start’, it was raining, I decided to just walk on.

I was planning to get to Portazgo but after consulting BBC weather, decided to plod on a bit more and stopped at O Burgo. ‘Gusty winds with thundery showers’ are being predicted for tomorrow. Got myself a private room at Hostal o Meson for €27. Had myself a late lunch and am now in bed at 7pm.

Oh sorry, I forgot to mention the walk! It was terrible! At one point the signs actually pointed me to walk across a flyover on the verge. I wondered to myself if a black waterproof is really the best choice of colour on a dull, wet, grey day?

All in all the walk was through town along a busy highway. Not scenic and not quiet and not dry! So not a great first day, but then again I have a private room with a bath and I just managed to download a film. I guess I’ll get an early night and see what fine weather I will get in the morning.

Also no pilgrims as of yet, very glad I have brought my kindle out with me this trip.

One plus is the abundance of yellows arrows again. Each one I see pushes me on a little further.
 
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Thanks for sharing your experience and best of luck! I had a question, did you get a pilgrim stamp sello for your credential in A Coruna? If so, where did you get it from? planning my walk from A Coruna in a few weeks and unsure where to get a stamp as the church opens quite late.
Many thanks
 
The Way: Through a Field of Stars
A great book to listen to while training for the Camino or to relive the experience!
Hi @charlottej I didn’t manage to get a stamp at A Coruna, the cafe I stopped at didn’t have one. I got one from the hostal I stayed at and at the church in O Burgo. I’m going to try for 2 a day but it’s harder on this route. Most cafes don’t have them. At least the ones I stopped at.
 
That’s interesting and really good to know! Thanks for getting back to me Buen Camino!
 
Day 2. O Burgo to Segrude. Approx 10km.

I woke at 8:30 thinking it was still early but no, it’s just dark outside. I went downstairs to have my morning smoke to lots of traffic and rain. Meh, what was I thinking?

After a coffee down stairs and a morning shower (private rooms are so great!), I headed off. The rain was horizontal! I sat down for another coffee as I contemplated why I was here and why was I under the impression this was a fun thing to do. As I watched the traffic and the rain I decided to buy an umbrella. There was a Chinese knick knack store opposite so I went in and bought myself a big umbrella, long enough to use as a walking stick. Off I popped.

The walk out of O Burgo is quite steep in places, I wouldn’t want to try it on a bike. Slowly, slowly I made it out and pretty soon I got away from main roads and onto quiet lanes. I even got a visit from Mr Sun himself.



The walk was pleasant, quiet and never too strenuous. There’s plenty of water fountains too, in case anyone is wondering. Each one giving you the distance till the next one, nice touch.

I started to hum La Vie en Rose in my head then out loud, then I attempted to whistle it. I don’t really know the song so I kept just going over the chorus again and again. You can judge my pace by the tempo of the song!

I came across some horses, chickens and had a close encounter with a donkey. It was tethered but started to follow me. Only for a second, he couldn’t get very far.



The day was sunny, rain here and there but nothing my new umbrella couldn’t handle. By midday, I sat down and had lunch in the sun. I started to remember why I enjoyed my first Camino.

With the rain and the sun I started to look for a rainbow, eventually I found it, I couldn’t stop smiling.



The day was turning out to be pretty great!
But I was getting desperate for a break and a coffee or a coke or something and soon I came across the only cafe on the way. I stopped and got the best coffee cake combo so far. You usually get a biscuit with your coffee in Spain. But this was a bakery and this was a slice of heaven!



I had to capture this scene, one side glorious and the other side full of menace.

View attachment IMG_2748.jpeg

Not long after I reached the albergue. Wonderful facility, very clean and very nice.

It’s a quiet route and a quiet time so I was the first to arrive but 3 Spanish ladies arrived soon after. There’s a cafe a little way down the road that closes at 11pm. I’ll head down for food early as I don’t have a head torch to come back in the dark.

So, I’m feeling a lot better than yesterday. I guess if you are planning to do a Camino when it’s colder and wetter, you just need to make sure the distances are manageable and that you can stop and hide from the rain as often as you need to. My distances are very small, so I’m in no rush to get anywhere.
 
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Buen Camino @ficklefancyfree! I am assuming your next stop is Bruma? Don't forget to stop at the Café Bar Casa Avelina in As Trevasas, and see the little San Roque church. It is supported by pilgrims. Avelina, the proprietress will give you the keys to see it if you ask. And she will ask you for change too! She is a real Camino mother and will treat you wonderfully!
 
Day 3: Sergude to Bruma approx 12km.

I awoke again to rain, lots of rain. The hostal kick out time was 8am but I didn’t leave, no one was around to kick me out so I just hung out in the communal area, reading.

By 9:30 I got a move on, Mr Sun had come out again, it was going to be another lovely day, or so I hoped.



I stopped at the same bar and had a quick coffee and soon got on my way. A little road walking today then quickly in and out of the forest.




It was pretty nice, so nice I hadn’t realised that it was all UP HILL!

I was really slow going, stopping every few paces to turn around and look behind me. I like to think I was savouring the moment but I was most definitely giving my calves a rest.

The rain was here again, pretty constant but light with not much wind, the umbrella came in handy. The rain and the gradient took it out of me. It was 11:30 and I had barely walked 6km.

With the rain stopping I found myself a stick and started to use the stick in one hand and the umbrella in the other. What magic I discovered! I was pushing myself up that hill with barely a pause, my calves were ok. If you blinked you would have missed me on the flats, this was extraordinary! I made a mental note to purchase these for my next trip. They really work, and makes me feel as if I’m actually walking with a purpose not just ambling along.

I got to Casa Avelina around 1pm, ordered myself a bocadillo and a coke. It’s a wonderful bar, the owner welcomed me with words I didn’t understand but with a lot of love. She gave me tissues to wipe the sweat from my face, a stool to rest my weary feet and even hung my jacket up for me. What a treasure. The sandwich was huge, so she wrapped half of it up for me. She even brought out a crepe for no reason whatsoever. I didn’t want to leave but I still had 3km to go.

As I left it was much chillier so I put my stuff down to get my down jacket out. Judging by the collection of sticks, it wasn’t just me who needed a little propulsion up that hill!



I decided to leave mine as well and just take the umbrella. I got to Bruma not long after, as albergues go it’s ok. But nothing to shout home about. Hot water, communal showers, no changing space. That was a bit difficult but I managed.

Hanging out for a bit before I head down to the restaurant for food. I have the feeling that I will get kicked out early from here and am wondering how I will stretch 10km out so that I do not arrive and have to wait for the albergue to open.
 
Day 4: Bruma to O Outeiro approx 10km.

Decided to let the morning bustle pass me by today. By the time I swing out of bed it was 8:30, most people had left a final few were in the common area packing.

One toilet wasn’t an issue seeing I was the last man standing. I packed slowly, the cafe down the road opened at 9am and I had another short, short day.

This morning I woke to, can you guess? Sunshine!



How novel it was, forecast said gusty winds and rain but so far not a peep in sight. I went for coffee, you can definitely tell the route from Ferrol is more popular as a few groups passed by. All Spanish it seemed at first glance.



I stopped at every cafe going, it was pleasant enough of a walk. I treated myself to some music and karaoke’d my way up the street, making sure I was out of earshot of any passers by.

I reached Outeiro almost unexpectedly, a sign pointed it was just 100m up the road. So I’m here, washed and waiting for a reasonable time to order a pizza and get it delivered.

I arrived at 12:30 but happily the hospitalerio was just arriving. He let me in out of the rain and I waited until it was time to check in.

Weather wise, it was a bit windy with one short burst of heavy rain and gusty winds. Other than that it was fairly bright if a bit blowy.




The walk itself was through forests for part of the way. A tiny bit muddy but nothing that you couldn’t circumnavigate. 2 more days until I reach Santiago! The next couple of days are going to be a bit longer at approx 15km but should be good after having such a nice slow first few days.
 
NEW pocket guide just released
Before the Camino: Your Pocket Guide to Prepare Your Body and Mind for the Camino
Hey @charlottej you might want to double check this but I think there is a tourist office near to the church where you can get a stamp at A Coruna
 
So refreshing to catch up with you again, chica! Are you going to book ahead in Siguiero? I will be interested to see if you find the best albergue... You are a pure tonic, and thanks for your injection of light.
 
Hi @Kirkie no booking ahead for me this time. I’m determined to not let the heebie jeebies get me. There seems to be a few hostels around and I have my ‘emergency’ cash available if I need to splurge on a private room. Also guessing that quite a few people might blast on to SDC. Only 4 other people in Outeiro tonight. This has been a super quiet Camino.

Hmmm the best Albergue, now I’m curious. I was intending to head to Albergue Miras seeing as it right on the Camino. However Casa Avelina plugged Segue o Camino to me and I think I might be swayed. Spread the cash and all that. I’ll probably end up at the restaurant under Albergue Miras anyway.

So did I get it?!!!
 
NEW pocket guide just released
Before the Camino: Your Pocket Guide to Prepare Your Body and Mind for the Camino
The best is rhe one you choose.
Ours was a room with maybe eight or nine bunks, and we were the two of us and one other pilgrim. I will tell you which when the time is right. I mean it, what you choose will be what is meant for you.
 

I can recommend restaurante El Cortes in Sigueiro.

Restaurante El Cortés – Lugar de encuentro en donde disfrutar y divertirse picoteando

www.restaurantecortes.es
 
Kirkie said:
The best is rhe one you choose.
Ours was a room with maybe eight or nine bunks, and we were the two of us and one other pilgrim. I will tell you which when the time is right. I mean it, what you choose will be what is meant for you.
Click to expand...
well played my lovely!
 
Train on the 4-day Catalina Camino
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 30 to April 2
Day 5: O Outeiro to Sigueiro approx 15km

Last night I ordered a pizza AND a burger with fries. The pizza came in 3 sizes, I figured the small would be, you know small. I also thought the burger would be less than filling, so I decided to order both. Well, what a mistaker to maker. The ‘small’ pizza was in fact huge, could have fed 2. It’s a regular pizza back in the UK, had to be a 12 inch, my eyes were watering at the sight of it.



The burger, pretty meaty too, now I had way too much food and no one at the albergue to share it with.

I ate most of the burger, some of the chips and couple slices of pizza, the rest went into the fridge for late night snack or breakfast, maybe lunch if I can figure a way to carry it.

There ended up being 4 other people in the albergue that night, all men, all very keep to themselves. This whole Camino has been like that for me. I can’t quite tell if I enjoy it or not. I don’t mind it but I do miss the evening conversation over dinner. However I’m pleased to recommend to you folks back home and afar some gems I’ve come across on Netflix. American Underdog and Nyad. Both are watchable and heartwarming. If it were not for the fact that I was sitting at a kitchen table in an albergue I would been snorting and bawling over the last scene of Nyad. Tremendous story.

Anyway, to the walk today. Apart from the rain, it was rather nice. The path was very forestry today, the rain was mostly constant but light enough and only one serious downpour.

View attachment IMG_2820.jpeg
View attachment IMG_2823.jpeg


I noted that the route took you next to the AP-9. I wasn’t sure if you were walking on a path next to it or on the verge, in any case I decided that walking next to a motorway wasn’t going to be any fun.

I went off piste at Baioxa and took a longer way so that I wouldn’t be next to the motorway. For the most part it was lovely. The long stretch of road is uppy downy and I needed to criss cross a bit to be seen by cars but it was fairly quiet.



It was after 2 when I reached Sigueiro. I decided to stay at Segue O Camino. One because it’s the first one you come to, second I was cold now. A bed costs €18 and includes breakfast in the morning. There is also tea, real coffee and fruit for your pleasure.

I hadn’t had any lunch at this point so after my shower I went off to hunt for food.

Thank you for the recommendation @SabsP but El Cortes was shut today. I went to the Miras and had a 4 course meal. Yes I said 4, it cost €22 and I figured it was right to treat myself.



Dang it! I hit my picture limit! You will just have to imagine the dessert.

Last day tomorrow! 16km to SDC, my flight leaves at 19:30. Must remember to get a stamp from the McDonalds on the way there! Must remember to check in!
 
ficklefancyfree said:
I decided that walking next to a motorway wasn’t going to be any fun.

I went off piste at Baioxa and took a longer way so that I wouldn’t be next to the motorway.
Click to expand...
Very good call, wish I had! (Mind you, I don’t use a map, app or guidebook so a little problematic because I didn’t know it was coming, but still)
I’ve enjoyed your thread, thanks for posting and enjoy the walk in tomorrow!
 
Hi
Thanks for all your feed back.
A friend and I are travelling from Reading to Southampton at the moment and looking at pushing on to SdC next year.
An overall view of “tips” and ”recommended” accommodations , cafes and restaurants once you’ve finished would be gratefully received! Also, any tips on your trip along the St James’ Way to Southampton.
Have a great finale!
 
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Hello!

I only really have 2 stand outs from that trip. The crazy mahoosive stamp at the Church of St James in Bramley and asking for the dole at the Hospital of St Cross in Winchester.

There’s also a haunted pub in Winchester, I didn’t sense anything but my companion did.

I will come up with some thoughts after I finish this trip! Let me know if you guys are sorted for accommodation. I Airbnb’d in a room each night and it worked out really well apart from Winchester.
 
Glad you got all sorted. This was the place I would have suggested...but you got what was meant for you! have a great final day...
https://www.alberguescaminosantiago.../albergue-camino-real-sigueiro-camino-ingles/
Click to expand...
 
Day 6: Sigueiro to SDC approx 16km.

Well it’s over, again. I’m a bit saddened by the journey ending but then journeys end and begin all the time.

As I walked into SDC I was feeling a little at a loss, it’s strange to not celebrate the ending when the last memory you have of this place was hugging and laughing with those that you walked in with.

I have missed people on this Camino, I thought I was doing ok but I felt it walking into SDC alone and seeing the other people in pairs or groups and not solo.

Anyway, the day began dry and bright. I was in the company of 3 Frenchmen last night at the hostel. One of them spoke English and was in the mood to chat so I had my first conversation in a few days! It was nice, and made me realise I can handle solitude but I don’t necessarily like it. These guys were super polite, tip toeing and whispering, this was even before the lights went out!

In the morning they were already up and mostly packed by 8:30, I heard not a thing! I decided to get up also so that I didn’t make it harder for them to leave. Good job I did too, as it was a 16km day and I walk slow! I wanted to get into SDC by around 13:30 to give me 2 hours to get my compostela and some food.

I left around 9:30 and the walk out of Sigueiro was a bit grim, along the high road and I was worried it was going to be like this all the way but I was soon put at rest. What a wonderful last day! The sun was out, I was popping in and out of the forest and fields. I even caught a glimpse of a rainbow.

View attachment IMG_2855.jpeg
View attachment IMG_2856.jpeg
View attachment IMG_2863.jpeg


I was trying to do the math in my head. Flight is at 19:30, leave SDC at 15:30, get into SDC at 13:30. The math wasn’t quite working. I had to be flying to make that work. I started again, something wasn’t quite right..ah I had given myself 4 hours to get to the airport and not 3. Finally the brain kicked in, I wanted to be in SDC by 14:30, to hopefully get some food and do my bits before catching the airport bus around 16:30. This would give me an hour to get to the airport and I’d still be there 2 hours before take off.

It took me till about 11am to figure this out! In that time I had hoofed it and managed to walk over 7kms! I relaxed a bit and started to enjoy my last day. Rain came and rain went. Luckily I had reached Poligono when the heavy downpour started. I stopped in for a coffee and tortilla. It was past midday and I was hungry.

Next stop was the McDonalds! I ordered a Sunday and got my sello!



After this point the walking was just a means to get to the destination, nothing spectacular.

At precisely 14:36 I was in front of the cathedral



I went to the pilgrims office and got my compostela and distance certificate and another 3 passports to boot! I declined a card board tube but instead did this:



The bottom edge is a little schmooshed but works pretty well I think. It’s wrapped inside an airport toiletry bag thingy.

I left my bag at the left luggage and went to visit the cathedral. I always wonder why the main entrance seems to be permanently closed. I remember in the film they touched a statue on the way in. Alas maybe this will never happen. I can say what changed this time is that I got to hug on the statue in the high altar. Yes, this time we were allowed to embrace St James. I touched him on the shoulder, seemed more proper that way.

It was now coming up to 4, no time for food but I wasn’t much hungry anyway. Time to grab my stuff. So this is where people leave their walking poles! I’ll remember this the next time I fly into SDC at the start of another Camino!



As I collected my bag I tried unsuccessfully to give away my umbrella. I left it as an offering along with the walking poles.

So I’m now sat on my Ryanair flight back to Stansted. It was a great walk, I learned a little more about myself, got to breathe some fresh air, see a couple of rainbows and gave my outdoor kit a good soaking!

Until we meet again!
Fi
 
NEW pocket guide just released
Before the Camino: Your Pocket Guide to Prepare Your Body and Mind for the Camino
Final thoughts.

Personally I found the trail to be really scenic, very green and very foresty.

Water fountains are abundant and only at most 7km apart. A 500ml bottle would do you unless you drink lots in which case I would say no more than 1ltr.

I found it hilly, walking poles would be a good thing to have. I discovered using a mish mash of an umbrella and stick from the forest and I’m converted!

Off season you will appreciate a hard shell rain jacket and not a light packable one. I was happy I brought a long a pair of liner gloves too.

You can’t cook unless you bring your own pot. All the municipal albergues were great along this route, however, next time I will pony up in Bruma and go for the private one. I have a thing about having more than one toilet per sex. No-one likes holding and queueing for that first thing in the morning.

I was warm in all the albergues, heating was on and abundant, but I always travel with a silk liner and sleeping bag.

There was less English spoken on this route both from the locals and pilgrims. Not many pilgrims and so a very quiet walk.

When it rains, and it will rain, go hunting for rainbows! Makes it all worth it. Give yourself enough time to duck out of the rain when it happens. I believe that is what saved me this trip. The rain wasn’t terrible as I didn’t have to plod through it every day.

I’ve already planned my stages from Ferrol, just waiting for more annual leave
 
Ficklefancyfree, thanks for posting. Taking notes for 2025...

...as for the west entrance to the Cathedral at the Plaza de Obradorio, the Portico de Gloria (the statue you remember), and all the rest, that area is only accessible if you purchase the correct tour from the museum (night tour worked for me). You still can't touch, but you can see. It's been off limits since the renovation was completed.
 
I stopped at a cafe in Neda and their stamp was broken, I asked the employee to handwrite the name of the business and address on my credential and it was accepted as a stamp.
 
Get a Spanish mobil number + data while on the Camino
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Thanks for that! I guess third time will really be the charm!
 
Make time for the night tour...worth it. And the rooftop tour, if heights and you get along.
 

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