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Astorga Roman/Asturian festival

David

A stranger in a very strange land
Time of past OR future Camino
First one in 2005 from Moissac, France.
Hi all ... by pure luck I passed through Astorga with friends one year at the end of July, to find myself in the middle of the most wonderful and strange festival.
During the last weekend of July each year they celebrate the epic clash between the Romans and the Celts that ended with Roman control but a contract of mutual peace. It is outstanding. Seems like half the population dress up either as Romans or Asturan Celts for the whole event ... so you can go to a cafe, and if you don't know it is on, be surprised to be served by a young woman dressed perfectly as a Roman or pop into a shop to be served by an Asturan warrior, complete with battle axe. Down at the park they build a village, half Asturan Celt roundhouses, half Roman 'villas' and hang out there. There is food and alcohol (at night an awful lot of food and alcohol and fiesty barbarians), battle re-enactments, parades, Roman games with gladiator fights - it is truly worth being there.

I had to stop at El Burgo Ranero last year as my old knee trauma finally became too much but am already getting it ready for '25 and shall go back there (it has a tiny train station) to start on my way again .. and plan to be in Astorga for the festival (look at me, who doesn't plan 😂 ) ...

but- the reason I am posting this is because if you want to stay for the festival rooms run out quickly and quite a time before the whole town can be fully booked up.
I just booked three nights, Fri-Mon, Imprenta Musical Hotel, so that I can really enjoy it this time - but noticed on Booking.com that some hotels are already fully booked, even now! - so if you will be passing through last weekend in July and think you may want to do a stopover to immerse then do book a room well ahead
Starts Thursday but the three nights Fri to Sun, leave Monday works very well - 25th-28th July. (the Friday is a local holiday).

It is amazing - short videos of it!



Buen Camino! - Maybe I will see you there (offering hangover cures, not first aid I think ;))
 
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I love the Spanish festivals. IMO the Spanish really know how to celebrate. The coolest thing for me is that the celebrations often seem to be associated with a "Patron Saint" for a particular locale, and I encounter them randomly on occasion (I know its not random, it is tradition of course, I just don't know ahead of time).

It is so fun, walking into some destination, and noticing the locals wearing their outfits and their smiles.

Sometimes I begin to figure out something is going on when prices for lodging go up. The fireworks heard while walking are also a hint.

I don't know why, but when I am in a Spanish city, town, or hamlet during a festival, I feel especially welcomed, like I belong there.

Although not a patron holiday, Ascension Day in Santiago is a party! There are like concerts and a legit ferris wheel, at least when I've been there randomly.

I cannot get the image of ladies walking around in Roman attire out of my head. :).
 
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There's a similar one in Lugo with the Roman's and the Celts and I think another town in Galicia where they recreate a Viking invasion. Lots of fun festivals in Spain and several which involve people dressing like Barbarians, Roman's, Moors, Knights, etc
The Viking one is the Viking Festival of Catoira, which is the first Sunday in August. If you take the boat for the last leg of the Variante Espiritual you will pass by it.
 
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Probably a coincidence but when we were in León in 2015 there was a Roman themed street fair at the cathedral. Late June or July. We didn't see any evidence of anything similar though when we got to Astorga.
 
In 2022 I walked past a large party in a very rural area, heading toward Betanzos. As I approached, church bells were ringing non-stop for several minutes followed by what I thought at the time was cannon fire. I did not see costumes or a pop up village such as you describe but there was a large stage. After a bit I clearly heard a Glenn Miller tune being played at the event.
Later at my alburque in Betanos, I could hear the community outside fully engaged in a big celebration. There was another series of loud booms around 1 am along with laughing, singing, and children running around.
This albergue locked the doors around 10 so I did not think it a good idea to venture out alone. The city was decorated so I'm guessing it was a Medieval festival?
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Maybe this is one way the Spanish seem to be able to absorb and integrate a history that at times has been very traumatic - no denial here.
I think I would like to see that festival in Astorga if I walk Camino Francés again.
 

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