Are you ready for another round of "I can't find a bed"

[isawtman]

Last year I started out from St Jean on Sept 2, which was one of the busiest days of the year. I barely got a bed the first day of walking and I had to walk all the way to Burguette. September is the busiest month from St Jean. This past spring we had several posts from people having a hard time getting a bed. I think that's going to start happening again after Sept 1. Should be interesting to see what happens. Again, my advice is to book the first 3 nights. That would be St Jean, Roncesvalles, and Zubiri. Pamplona should have enough beds unless there is some sort of event going on. But, if Zubiri is completely booked on the night before Pamplona, I would book Puente La Reina for the night after Pamplona. I didn't do that and again, I just barely got a bed in Puente la Reina. But part of my Puenta la Reina problem was I was shipping some unneeded stuff to the end, and I got a late start after going to the post office (Correos.) So I started from Pamplona at 9 instead of 7. The next night after Puente la Reina, I went to Ayegui where I had booked with booking.com. It's just past the end of the stage which is Estella. At Ayegui, the Albergue wasn't even close to being full. It's the San Cipriano Albergue in a sports arena. It has 3 rooms of 14 bed each, and they didn't even open the 3rd room. So, staying away from the end of the stage is another strategy and of course booking your room is also a strategy. When I was worried about getting a bed, I booked. Otherwise, I just went with the flow. I guess another strategy is not to bring too much stuff and have to ship some of it. You can always buy items in Spain if you need them. So, pack on the light side. Also, many albergues have a shelf or box where other pilgrims left items they didn't want to carry anymore. Or perhaps the items were forgotten at the Albergue. So, there are ways of getting the stuff you may need. You can see exactly what I did for each night here: http://tmanshikes.com/where-i-stayed-on-my-camino-trip/

 

[ejg1890]

Last year I started out from St Jean on Sept 2, which was one of the busiest days of the year. I barely got a bed the first day of walking and I had to walk all the way to Burguette. September is the busiest month from St Jean. This past spring we had several posts from people having a hard time getting a bed. I think that's going to start happening again after Sept 1. Should be interesting to see what happens. Again, my advice is to book the first 3 nights. That would be St Jean, Roncesvalles, and Zubiri. Pamplona should have enough beds unless there is some sort of event going on. But, if Zubiri is completely booked on the night before Pamplona, I would book Puente La Reina for the night after Pamplona. I didn't do that and again, I just barely got a bed in Puente la Reina. But part of my Puenta la Reina problem was I was shipping some unneeded stuff to the end, and I got a late start after going to the post office (Correos.) So I started from Pamplona at 9 instead of 7. The next night after Puente la Reina, I went to Ayegui where I had booked with booking.com. It's just past the end of the stage which is Estella. At Ayegui, the Albergue wasn't even close to being full. It's the San Cipriano Albergue in a sports arena. It has 3 rooms of 14 bed each, and they didn't even open the 3rd room. So, staying away from the end of the stage is another strategy and of course booking your room is also a strategy. When I was worried about getting a bed, I booked. Otherwise, I just went with the flow. I guess another strategy is not to bring too much stuff and have to ship some of it. You can always buy items in Spain if you need them. So, pack on the light side. Also, many albergues have a shelf or box where other pilgrims left items they didn't want to carry anymore. Or perhaps the items were forgotten at the Albergue. So, there are ways of getting the stuff you may need. You can see exactly what I did for each night here: http://tmanshikes.com/where-i-stayed-on-my-camino-trip/

Of course I start my 1st Camino on September 1. I thought the April/May and September/October would be the shoulder seasons with fewer travelers and decent weather. Because of the concern I am booked all the way through to Pamplona at least. Figure it out as I go along after that.

 

[truenorthpilgrm]

Sound plan. Another route I wanted to try this year was either from Zabaldika or Arre to Zariquiegui or Uterga, avoiding the herd. Continuing the strategy until after perhaps Punte la Reina. However, illness forced me at a hotel in Zizur Mayor for 9 days. The first day I felt halfway decent, I huffed and puffed my way to Zariquiegui and stayed there for the night. I always bypassed this town but really loved staying here for the night. Also, a perfect for next morning's sunrise hike to Alto del Perdon. I wouldn't want to discourage first time pilgrims (or anyone) from staying in Puente la Reina, however having walked the CF 3 times, I really wanted to explore the small and off stage villages.

 

[isawtman]

Of course I start my 1st Camino on September 1. I thought the April/May and September/October would be the shoulder seasons with fewer travelers and decent weather. Because of the concern I am booked all the way through to Pamplona at least. Figure it out as I go along after that.

I thought the real rush would come after Labor Day in the US. I thought many Retired People would be flying over starting that weekend. But I was wrong. The Camino was busy with people from the US and many European Countries. In fact, there were lots of Italians and Germans. But there were very few people from Spain hiking the Camino at that time. I only met one. I hope you do well on your camino!!!!

 

[trecile]

Of course I start my 1st Camino on September 1. I thought the April/May and September/October would be the shoulder seasons with fewer travelers and decent weather

You are right that Santiago and the last 100km is really busy in the summer, but there's a lot more to the Camino!

Here's a thread about the difference between the last 100km and all the preceding kms.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-tale-of-two-caminos-what-about-those-crowds.80411/

 

[HKim]

But there were very few people from Spain hiking the Camino at that time.

Have not yet walked the Camino, but have heard that July/Aug are prime times for Spaniards on the way. Also May/June - but later summer someone said is their 'rush hour.'

 

[C clearly]

I think that's going to start happening again after Sept 1.

No doubt!

have heard that July/Aug are prime times for Spaniards on the way.

But an important extra piece of information you need to understand the crowds is that those July-August Spanish pilgrims are heavily concentrated on the last 100 km stretch from Sarria to Santiago.

The May and September crushes are in the first few days from SJPP.

 

[David Tallan]

Of course I start my 1st Camino on September 1. I thought the April/May and September/October would be the shoulder seasons with fewer travelers and decent weather. Because of the concern I am booked all the way through to Pamplona at least. Figure it out as I go along after that.

It's the decent weather that leads to more travelers. The summer months are the high season for those just walking from Sarria. For those with more time and flexibility, who are walking from SJPP, they prefer to walk when it is not quite so hot. So from SJPP, the beginnings of May and September are busiest.

 

[KFD]

Last year I started out from St Jean on Sept 2, which was one of the busiest days of the year. I barely got a bed the first day of walking and I had to walk all the way to Burguette. September is the busiest month from St Jean. This past spring we had several posts from people having a hard time getting a bed. I think that's going to start happening again after Sept 1. Should be interesting to see what happens. Again, my advice is to book the first 3 nights. That would be St Jean, Roncesvalles, and Zubiri. Pamplona should have enough beds unless there is some sort of event going on. But, if Zubiri is completely booked on the night before Pamplona, I would book Puente La Reina for the night after Pamplona. I didn't do that and again, I just barely got a bed in Puente la Reina. But part of my Puenta la Reina problem was I was shipping some unneeded stuff to the end, and I got a late start after going to the post office (Correos.) So I started from Pamplona at 9 instead of 7. The next night after Puente la Reina, I went to Ayegui where I had booked with booking.com. It's just past the end of the stage which is Estella. At Ayegui, the Albergue wasn't even close to being full. It's the San Cipriano Albergue in a sports arena. It has 3 rooms of 14 bed each, and they didn't even open the 3rd room. So, staying away from the end of the stage is another strategy and of course booking your room is also a strategy. When I was worried about getting a bed, I booked. Otherwise, I just went with the flow. I guess another strategy is not to bring too much stuff and have to ship some of it. You can always buy items in Spain if you need them. So, pack on the light side. Also, many albergues have a shelf or box where other pilgrims left items they didn't want to carry anymore. Or perhaps the items were forgotten at the Albergue. So, there are ways of getting the stuff you may need. You can see exactly what I did for each night here: http://tmanshikes.com/where-i-stayed-on-my-camino-trip/

I agree with staying off-stage. I have done this on every Camino and it worked well. Often, I was the only person in an albergue as other couldn't find beds in the stage in the guidebook. Also, as to the final 100 kms from Sarria to Santiago - in September or October, it might be nice to switch to the Invierno from Ponferrada. It goes through the rio Sil valley (wine country) and via Ourense. You come into Santiago a totally different route on the Winter Way. It's a gorgeous peaceful alternative to finishing on the Frances. Just a thought as the season is heating up here in Galicia.

 

[trecile]

I agree with staying off-stage. I have done this on every Camino and it worked well

This works well for most of the Camino, but between SJPdP to Pamplona there just aren't that many "off stage" places to stay.

 

[Bradypus]

This works well for most of the Camino, but between SJPdP to Pamplona there just aren't that many "off stage" places to stay.

That's why I have booked for SJPDP, Roncesvalles and Zubiri next week. After that my friend and I will take our chances. With a bivvy bag each as a last resort or if weather permits and we feel like a change.

 

[wanderlustesq]

I am hoping my August 30th start—with the first four days reserved—will keep me out of the throes!

 

[lt56ny]

I agree with staying off-stage. I have done this on every Camino and it worked well. Often, I was the only person in an albergue as other couldn't find beds in the stage in the guidebook. Also, as to the final 100 kms from Sarria to Santiago - in September or October, it might be nice to switch to the Invierno from Ponferrada. It goes through the rio Sil valley (wine country) and via Ourense. You come into Santiago a totally different route on the Winter Way. It's a gorgeous peaceful alternative to finishing on the Frances. Just a thought as the season is heating up here in Galicia.

I see you walked the VDLP this year. I was thinking of doing it again next year. If I walk this route I would start in Cordoba on the Mozarabe and then join the VDLP in Merida. When I walked in 2021 I had to go up to Astorga as I was told by albergue owners that many albergues (It was already late November) were closed on the Sanabres. This time I will do the Sanabres. Just wondering if you walked to Santiago on the Sanabres and what time of year you walked the VDLP. If I do decide to go this way I would again start in late October. Personally I would much prefer to walk in cold rather than hot weather. I met very few pilgrims but that is ok with me.

 

[MichelleO]

Sound plan. Another route I wanted to try this year was either from Zabaldika or Arre to Zariquiegui or Uterga, avoiding the herd. Continuing the strategy until after perhaps Punte la Reina. However, illness forced me at a hotel in Zizur Mayor for 9 days. The first day I felt halfway decent, I huffed and puffed my way to Zariquiegui and stayed there for the night. I always bypassed this town but really loved staying here for the night. Also, a perfect for next morning's sunrise hike to Alto del Perdon. I wouldn't want to discourage first time pilgrims (or anyone) from staying in Puente la Reina, however having walked the CF 3 times, I really wanted to explore the small and off stage villages.

You have just mentioned my last 2 stops! Zabaldika is a hidden gem with great Hospitaleros and a wonderful communal dinner. Tonight I am at Zariquiegui. Unfortunately it is a 42°C day but the cool grass around the church is the only place to relax. I also got to watch the installation of a new stained-glass window at the front.
Small villages can be more relaxing than the bigger ones.

 

[JabbaPapa]

There's some uncertainty -- it seems that the post-covid / post-lockdown / Holy Year boom is ending, so that July and August numbers are down compared to last year -- even though 2023 numbers are still up I think from 2022 because January to May and early June were rather populous.

So things may be getting back to non-Holy Year "normal".

 

[KFD]

I see you walked the VDLP this year. I was thinking of doing it again next year. If I walk this route I would start in Cordoba on the Mozarabe and then join the VDLP in Merida. When I walked in 2021 I had to go up to Astorga as I was told by albergue owners that many albergues (It was already late November) were closed on the Sanabres. This time I will do the Sanabres. Just wondering if you walked to Santiago on the Sanabres and what time of year you walked the VDLP. If I do decide to go this way I would again start in late October. Personally I would much prefer to walk in cold rather than hot weather. I met very few pilgrims but that is ok with me.

Hi - sorry. I put the wrong date for the VdLP. I will walk it in January from Sevilla. I like the solitude and the cold. My last Camino Frances I walked in the winter and it snowed in the meseta! Heaven. I plan to walk on the Sanabres. I don't want to go to Astorga. If I find I must, I will cut over to the Invierno at Ponferrada and not finish on the Frances. But I have time to figure it all out.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Have not yet walked the Camino, but have heard that July/Aug are prime times for Spaniards on the way. Also May/June - but later summer someone said is their 'rush hour.'

On the Francès, overall the busiest months are May and September. BUT that is not true for the Sarria > Santiago stretch, which is busy between Lent and early October.

 

[Bradypus]

So things may be getting back to non-Holy Year "normal".

Some signs that numbers may be picking up again. 2409 at the pilgrim office yesterday. That's a big number for a Tuesday. A few quite big days recently.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Some signs that numbers may be picking up again. 2409 at the pilgrim office yesterday. That's a big number for a Tuesday. A few quite big days recently.

It's nearly September ...

 

[lt56ny]

Hi - sorry. I put the wrong date for the VdLP. I will walk it in January from Sevilla. I like the solitude and the cold. My last Camino Frances I walked in the winter and it snowed in the meseta! Heaven. I plan to walk on the Sanabres. I don't want to go to Astorga. If I find I must, I will cut over to the Invierno at Ponferrada and not finish on the Frances. But I have time to figure it all out.

As you can guess I love the VDLP. If I may offer a few suggestions to you. Download the Buen Camino. Wise Pilgrim and check Gronze.com for places to sleep. Outside the big cities there are few options. I am sure you know to call ahead. Not because an albergue will be sold out but because just because the apps or Gronze say a place is open I would not always count on it. My experience walking in November and December is that they are only about 60-70% accurate on whether an albergue is open or closed. It is not their fault as often an albergue or hostel is open is based on the whims of the owners or municipality. When you get to Galicia the Xunta's are almost always open. I can't talk about the Sanabres because I was warned by at least 3 people that unless I was prepared to walk 35K or more some days to walk to Astorga instead. But that was just after Spain reopened from Covid.
I sure you know there are stages that have no towns between the beginning and the end. There are fewer options to break up long stages also, so as I said check to see open albergues, hostels and also have food with you. There were some stages I carried enough food for 2 days just to be safe. Believe me it wasn't fine dining but I was glad I had food. There were some towns that I had to stay up past my bedtime because the only place to eat was a bar that didn't serve any food until 9 and once 9:30PM.
I am sure you will be alone alot even alot more than I was but I sure did clear all the accumulated crap that is between my ears.
Finally, I hope you can speak even a little Spanish. Outside of the big cities I do not think I met one local person that spoke English. If you like history you will like the VDLP. It may not be for everyone but I have a feeling it is for you.
Oh yea haha, download AlertCops:
After I get my Sim Card at Vodafone. I would highly recommend you get one to insure good coverage. I get a plan that has about 40 gigs of data and I think 500 minutes of calls. You can check in Sevilla and find a plan that suits you. Super easy to recharge too.I download AlertCops. Especially walking solitary caminos if you have a problem or injury or get lost (next to impossible with GPS and just walking North) you can be in touch with an English speaking person to send you help. THere is a GPS on the app.

Home - Alertcops

alertcops.ses.mir.es

That was a long finally wasn't it. haha
Buen Camino

 

[isawtman]

Hi - sorry. I put the wrong date for the VdLP. I will walk it in January from Sevilla. I like the solitude and the cold. My last Camino Frances I walked in the winter and it snowed in the meseta! Heaven. I plan to walk on the Sanabres. I don't want to go to Astorga. If I find I must, I will cut over to the Invierno at Ponferrada and not finish on the Frances. But I have time to figure it all out.

If I ever go to Seville I'd definitely see the mushrooms: https://setasdesevilla.com/en/home

 

[truenorthpilgrm]

You have just mentioned my last 2 stops! Zabaldika is a hidden gem with great Hospitaleros and a wonderful communal dinner. Tonight I am at Zariquiegui. Unfortunately it is a 42°C day but the cool grass around the church is the only place to relax. I also got to watch the installation of a new stained-glass window at the front.
Small villages can be more relaxing than the bigger ones.

I missed Zabaldika by just a few weeks this year (still closed for the winter)! And yes, Zariquiegui is a sweet stop with a great, sweeping view of the valley.

 

[KiwiRon]

Last year I started out from St Jean on Sept 2, which was one of the busiest days of the year. I barely got a bed the first day of walking and I had to walk all the way to Burguette. September is the busiest month from St Jean. This past spring we had several posts from people having a hard time getting a bed. I think that's going to start happening again after Sept 1. Should be interesting to see what happens. Again, my advice is to book the first 3 nights. That would be St Jean, Roncesvalles, and Zubiri. Pamplona should have enough beds unless there is some sort of event going on. But, if Zubiri is completely booked on the night before Pamplona, I would book Puente La Reina for the night after Pamplona. I didn't do that and again, I just barely got a bed in Puente la Reina. But part of my Puenta la Reina problem was I was shipping some unneeded stuff to the end, and I got a late start after going to the post office (Correos.) So I started from Pamplona at 9 instead of 7. The next night after Puente la Reina, I went to Ayegui where I had booked with booking.com. It's just past the end of the stage which is Estella. At Ayegui, the Albergue wasn't even close to being full. It's the San Cipriano Albergue in a sports arena. It has 3 rooms of 14 bed each, and they didn't even open the 3rd room. So, staying away from the end of the stage is another strategy and of course booking your room is also a strategy. When I was worried about getting a bed, I booked. Otherwise, I just went with the flow. I guess another strategy is not to bring too much stuff and have to ship some of it. You can always buy items in Spain if you need them. So, pack on the light side. Also, many albergues have a shelf or box where other pilgrims left items they didn't want to carry anymore. Or perhaps the items were forgotten at the Albergue. So, there are ways of getting the stuff you may need. You can see exactly what I did for each night here: http://tmanshikes.com/where-i-stayed-on-my-camino-trip/

As someone just about to depart New Zealand, I have noted everything you have written. Thank you.

 

[CamisMors]

Of course I’m a first timer starting the Camino Frances on September 1st. I really thought July- August would be the busiest months and I was really confident about finding beds until I saw this post and now I’m starting to worry about it a little bit.
What would you say is the the recommended plan of action if one can’t find a bed?

 

[jdpiguet]

Go to the next albergue/bar/church/place where people gather and ask them for help.
Buen Camino,
Jacques-D.

 

[ukjohn99]

Last year I started out from St Jean on Sept 2, which was one of the busiest days of the year. I barely got a bed the first day of walking and I had to walk all the way to Burguette. September is the busiest month from St Jean. This past spring we had several posts from people having a hard time getting a bed. I think that's going to start happening again after Sept 1. Should be interesting to see what happens. Again, my advice is to book the first 3 nights. That would be St Jean, Roncesvalles, and Zubiri. Pamplona should have enough beds unless there is some sort of event going on. But, if Zubiri is completely booked on the night before Pamplona, I would book Puente La Reina for the night after Pamplona. I didn't do that and again, I just barely got a bed in Puente la Reina. But part of my Puenta la Reina problem was I was shipping some unneeded stuff to the end, and I got a late start after going to the post office (Correos.) So I started from Pamplona at 9 instead of 7. The next night after Puente la Reina, I went to Ayegui where I had booked with booking.com. It's just past the end of the stage which is Estella. At Ayegui, the Albergue wasn't even close to being full. It's the San Cipriano Albergue in a sports arena. It has 3 rooms of 14 bed each, and they didn't even open the 3rd room. So, staying away from the end of the stage is another strategy and of course booking your room is also a strategy. When I was worried about getting a bed, I booked. Otherwise, I just went with the flow. I guess another strategy is not to bring too much stuff and have to ship some of it. You can always buy items in Spain if you need them. So, pack on the light side. Also, many albergues have a shelf or box where other pilgrims left items they didn't want to carry anymore. Or perhaps the items were forgotten at the Albergue. So, there are ways of getting the stuff you may need. You can see exactly what I did for each night here: http://tmanshikes.com/where-i-stayed-on-my-camino-trip/

I thought that one could only make a booking at private Albergues and not the municipal ones. Having said that where do the Roncesvalles monastery and others fit in?

 

[Bradypus]

I thought that one could only make a booking at private Allergies and not the municipal ones. Having said that where do the Roncesvalles monastery and others fit in?

Nothing on the Caminos is that clear-cut I'm afraid. There will be exceptions to almost every rule. Roncesvalles is not a municipal albergue - it belongs to the religious community of the Colegiata but is staffed by a large group of volunteers. They certainly allow reservations - I have one for next Tuesday night. Gronze is probably the best guide to which albergues accept reservations and which do not.

 

[trecile]

I thought that one could only make a booking at private Albergues and not the municipal ones. Having said that where do the Roncesvalles monastery and others fit in?

As @Bradypus said you can reserve at Roncesvalles. Here's the website for bookings

Pilgrims' hostel

alberguederoncesvalles.com

 

[Bradypus]

The pilgrim office website has recorded 3427 pilgrims today. Friday is usually the busiest day of the week but that is an exceptional figure. Looks as if numbers may be picking up for another busy September.