Aragones backwards?

[Kiwi-family]

I saw mention of the Aragones on another thread and was quite taken with it. Although I have walked many routes I have not yet done Saint Jean to Santiago and for some unfathomable reason would like to. Now I'm wondering about starting in Puente la Reina (there's a direct bus from Madrid) and walking the Aragones backwards to Somport, then continuing on to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. This blog post provides a possible route for that section (after 18km on the N134 from Somport):

I have walked backwards from Finisterre to Santiago, from Pamplona to Saint Jean and the Voie de la Nive, so I am well acquainted with the difficulties that poses. Hence my asking how doable it is on this route (bearing in mind I do not use my phone for navigating - although I could upskill and do so if it were suggested that would be wise)
Anything I should consider before embarking on this? (another alternative is simply to walk the Frances and then do the Aragones afterwards should time permit)

 

[Former member 104756]

Hi @Kiwi-family The Aragones backwards from Puenta la Reina is very doable. Honestly I think you could almost 'follow your nose' with the occasional reference maybe to Gronze maps. We love the Aragones. We were in the area again just recently and walked a few days back from Jaca up and over the Col du Somport. Bonus is getting to stay in some very special albergues - e.g. Arres, Canfranc peublo.

As to what happens when you go over the Col and arrive in France, I have no experience of the GR 10 but from Urdos shown on your map you can continue on the Arles Way to Oloron St Marie (2 days) (where the Arles and Piemont routes connect) and take the Piemont to SJPP (you will then be going in the 'usual' direction).

Our stages from Oloron to SJPP were quite short.

1. Oloron St Marie - to Hopital Saint Blaise (24 kms)
2. Hopital Saint Blaise to Mauleon Licharre (17 kms)
3. Mauleon-Liccharre to (Chez Sandra just before) Saint Just Ibarre (22 kms)
4. Then to SJPP (24 kms)

The route from Oloron to SJPP is beautiful as is all of that Pays Basque area, as you would know well.

Re navigation. We used navigation for the first time recently - and only occasionally - on the Baztan. I used Wikiloks and it was very easy. As others have said on the forum - once you've downloaded the track/s, it works offline, you can put it in your pocket and if you go off track it will 'beep' you. Most of the time we didn't need it, but there were a couple of occasions when we appreciated the beep!

PS Just remembered - for much if not all of the Aragones, as it continues from the Arles Way, you have the two way red and white GR signs, so I think you would find it quite easy to follow. Even though it's Spain by then, the GR signs continue for some if not all of the Aragones.

 

[dick bird]

I would use a simple satnav system such as Wikiloc if you can. Download pre-camino and play around with it locally to get the hang of it:. the Aragones is beautiful, but not so many people walk it and the signs are not as frequent as on the CF. Once over the border into France you can use the GR red and white symbols which are not only superior to the yellow arrows, but designed to work in both directions.

 

[J Willhaus]

Carry lots of water. From Puente la Reina to at least Arres there are few fountains.

 

[erikas]

Hi @Kiwi-family The Aragones backwards from Puenta la Reina is very doable. Honestly I think you could almost 'follow your nose' with the occasional reference maybe to Gronze maps. We love the Aragones. We were in the area again just recently and walked a few days back from Jaca up and over the Col du Somport. Bonus is getting to stay in some very special albergues - e.g. Arres, Canfranc peublo.

As to what happens when you go over the Col and arrive in France, I have no experience of the GR 10 but from Urdos shown on your map you can continue on the Arles Way to Oloron St Marie (2 days) (where the Arles and Piemont routes connect) and take the Piemont to SJPP (you will once again be going in the 'usual' direction).

Our stages from Oloron to SJPP were quite short.

1. Oloron St Marie - to Hopital Saint Blaise (24 kms)
2. Hopital Saint Blaise to Mauleon Licharre (17 kms)
3. Mauleon-Liccharre to (Chez Sandra just before) Saint Just Ibarre (22 kms)
4. Then to SJPP (24 kms)

The route from Oloron to SJPP is beautiful as is all of that Pays Basque area, as you would know well.

Re navigation. We used navigation for the first time recently - and only occasionally - on the Baztan. I used Wikiloks and it was very easy. As others have said on the forum - once you've downloaded the track/s, it works offline, you can put it in your pocket and if you go off track it will 'beep' you. Most of the time we didn't need it, but there were a couple of occasions when we appreciated the beep!

PS Just remembered - for much if not all of the Aragones, as it continues from the Arles Way, you have the two way red and white GR signs, so I think you would find it quite easy to follow. Even though it's Spain by then, the GR signs continue for some if not all of the Aragones.

Interesting as I have been considering doing Somport to Oloron. How doable is this and is it well marked all the way?

 

[Former member 104756]

Interesting as I have been considering doing Somport to Oloron. How doable is this and is it well marked all the way?

Yes once over the border in to France you will be on the Camino Arles. it’s well marked with two way red and white GR signage.

The only difficult section is from the Col down to Urdos about a 12 km descent. More tricky if the path is wet. See Gronze for the elevation profile.

Borce - Somport | Camino de Arles | Gronze.com

El GR adquiere tintes cómicos al desaparecer, ¡buena forma de lavarse las manos!, en el sector coincidente con la nacional entre Borce y Urdos, especialmente problemático al pie del Fort du Portalet. En breve, sin embargo, será solventado este obstáculo con una espectacular intervención: la de...

www.gronze.com

The next stages to Oloron are not difficult

That’s just from my perspective. Difficulty is subjective to some extent.

@erikas PS. If you are travelling to the Col du Somport via Spain, I recommend starting in Jaca (wonderful town) and walking the two days up to the Col. Stunning scenery and you have the opportunity to stay at the special Canfranc pueblo donativo albergue the first night and to pass by the newly renovated Canfranc Estacion thé next day. And if you have yet another day to spare, from Jaca you can take a day trip to the Monasteries San Juan de la Peña. Wonderful.

 

[lt56ny]

I walked it last October. The old fashioned way haha. It seems you have plenty of experience. I can only speak on the Aragones. Wonderful Camino. Someone mentioned that it was signposted as well. If you want you could also download the Buen Camino app that has a gps. It is what I used when i was a little confused. It is free, you can donate to them as they really do a nice job and cover many caminos. I used that guide and Gronze for finding albergues. I do not know when you will walk. I started about October 20 and I can tell you by November 1st a good number of the albergues were closing. In some places choices are extremely limited. All the albergues from Canfranc were wonderful.

 

[naplesdon]

This sounds exciting. I know there is a GR along the ridge that connects the Mediterranean to Hendaye which passes through or close to SJPdP, which might be the GR 10. I met some hikes in Urdos? who were on that trail in 2019 and they told me there were very few place for provision and sleep was in yurts if you could find one.

 

[Kiwi-family]

@Pelerina @dick bird @J Willhaus @lt56ny thank you all for your helpful replies. Looks like it’s well worth my while considering this more closely! Yay to have some research to do when I’m unable to be in Spain!!

 

[winemakerfw51]

I walked the Aragones in April. I'm a slow walker and usually get passed all the time by others. I actually saw more people walking the Aragones in reverse (one on his way to Rome) than I did walking toward SdC. Several started on the Frances and told me it was too crowded for them.

The Way is pretty much well marked, except for a few places. As someone mentioned, make sure you carry enough water and snacks. There are very few stores except in places like Jaca and Sanguesa, and if you're planning a break in a certain town, pay attention to bar/cafe closing times (usually 2-3pm until 6 or 7) because there's often only one in town.

On the Aragones, I never met a native English speaker - only French and Spanish who knew a little English. My Spanish improved immensely.

The Aragones is beautiful and peaceful. On any given day you are likely to see more sheep than people. As you head toward Punta de la Reina, the Pyrenees will be behind you. As someone mentioned on this forum at one time: Be sure to turn around occasionally (like the tops of hills) for some great photos. If you're walking in reverse you'll be treated to some wonderful vistas as you walk towards Somport.

Have a buen Camino.