LIVE from the Camino Annie’s partial Vdlp apr/may 2019

[OzAnnie]

I’ve just walked into Almadén de la Plata around midday today - it’s day 3 for me and feel it’s time I added a little to this Vdlp section.

Arrived Friday afternoon in Sevilla airport. The bus to town E4 is to the left exiting the airport. Many stops - I got out at final stop ‘Plaza de Armas’ bus station. I had only a few minutes walk to my Bnb (recommended earlier on forum by @gracethepilgrim ) . 2 nights there. Excellent and spacious. It’s on air Bnb but I contacted Angel the host directly. He is super host.
Although I’ve been the Sevilla before .. so much more to see this time.
Obtained the stamp on my credencial at the catedral and bought some gifts for grandchildren at the catedral shop. (More weight already !!)

Day 1 Sunday 7th. Caught bus to Itálica from ‘Plaza de Armas’ at 8.30am (Italica opens at 9am),
Fare is E1.60. Being Sunday it seems free entry ..
Put Mochilla into locker and walked around the ruins etc. really worthwhile .
Started walk to Guillena around 11am from there. This is such an easy walk (if fit) but I must admit I was so glad I’d bussed out through the suburban Sevilla first to santiponce (& Itálica)., as after recent health problems interfered with my training ., I was completely ‘had it’ on reaching my accommodation that day ‘Bar Francés ‘. Partially because being cooler I hadn’t been hydrating enough .. lesson learnt .
The walk itself was a nice gently undulating straight dirt path almost whole way. Weather was great for walking .. starting that time I only saw one group of walkers (4 Spanish gents ). We came to the beam across the stream together. I was glad to get that out of the way. Not as scary as I’d imagined. Getting older , I’m a little more wary about balance, but I did just fine.
Day 2 Guillena to castilblanco de Los arroyos .
No rain to start but had been raining previous days and lively new Brooks Ghost 11 trail runners were initiated with mud. Mud caking so much I became quite tall ! (that’s stretching it!), I’m a shorty. Pointlessly I kept trying to clear the build up and moved off path and back etc but to no avail. Frustrating.. but I’ve been fortunate on all other caminos. I’ve never experienced this mud., so it was my turn. Then the rain .. not heavy but enough so that you didn’t want to take a break . I arrived around 2pm and was heading to find a menu Del día but a call from behind me - someone kindly letting me know I was passing the albergue. I explained I had a booking at Hospedería de la Plata. Well too long a story explaining that one but an half hour later I once again headed for menu del día at Café Mansilla which is part of same building I think as Casa Macarena. They were very helpful in finding out whether the Hospedería was open or closed. I had overlooked in my information that one can only check in after 3pm. Hence it appeared abandoned.
Once I did get to meet the host Gustavo., the rest of that day and night has more than enough material for an episode of ‘faulty towers ‘. He disappeared after that. . I honestly had wished I’d gone to the Albergue where I could have at least found someone to ask questions of why doesn’t the hot water come through and why does the power go off. I believe the power thing does happen in spain according to Gustavo. It was fixed by 6.30 pm to his credit.

Day 3. Gustavo arranged taxi from café mansilla at 8am. (Not my choice ) I assumed I had to go with it. I walked down the hill to café mansilla at 7am to have breakfast there. (They are open from very early). I assumed there would be others but I was the only passenger. E25 fare to drop off at entrance to park.
I had no problems paying it but gathered it would be shared. A minute after drop off, another taxi drops off one passenger . Her fare was e20 from same start point. I heard from a couple who walked the whole way that there were taxis going to and fro constantly ..ha ha. So taxi business is doing well.
We passed about 12 or so Peregrinos walking this section. So I saw a lot more pilgrims today.
Great walking day. It was also lovely to have company of Bárbara (a German lady ) - the one who got out of the 2nd taxi.
I’m staying at Casa de Jenaro E30. Very clean -double bed. Large room /bathroom is separate and shared but other rooms are not occupied so I have the bathroom to myself! Loads of hot water.!

Tomorrow I’ll only walk the ist part of stage in gronze. So just to El Real de la Jara.
Annie

 

[ranthr]

Hope your pass through the arroyos in the park was easy, my big schreck on this camino in 2011! Buen camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Love it, thanks, Annie.

Is Hospederia de la plata at the entrance to town before you get to the albergue near the gas station? If so, I stayed there years ago and really enjoyed it, but then remember that the next time I walked through I thought it was closed. So I'm wondering if the new management may have taken it downhill. Was it rundown?
Funny, but neither that place nor Casa de Jenaro is on gronze. Wonder why, I always thought they had everything.

Joe stayed in the place I stayed in in Real de la Jara, and once again, what a difference a few years can make. When I was there it was a total mess, rooms piled high with junk and I had to pick my way through to the bed. Joe says it's clean and no mess at all! I remember that I went there because the municipal albergue doesn't open till late, or at least it didn't back then. Just checked on gronze and the albergue isn't the one that was there when I walked the last time. Back then it was up a few stairs to a little house right at the entrance of town, now it is big and near the exit of town. I guess it's not surprising that things would have chnged so much.

Enjoy, and thanks again for posting!

 

[C clearly]

I'm happy to see your report and good progress!

This is such an easy walk (if fit)

I remember being quite exhausted that first day, too. Jet lag takes more than a few days to get over.

Getting older , I’m a little more wary about balance, but I did just fine.

It was dry for me, and I've been looking warily at the photos of the new narrow "bridge." Glad to know it isn't too bad.

Tomorrow I’ll only walk the ist part of stage in gronze. So just to El Real de la Jara.

I stayed in Casa Molina, which was good - it seems to have improved since @peregrina2000 was there.

 

[OzAnnie]

Tks for the info above .. I hadn’t booked for tonight yet but nice to know that I can take a chance on Olajamiento Molina. ( edit : I checked in at 1.30 and I’m at the yummy restaurant now 3.15pm enjoying the menu del día.
Laurie
Casa de Jenaro (Almadén) is on booking.com but I did notice it wasn’t on gronze or elsewhere. Strange that they have pricing sheets around the place showing E15 per person but I paid E30 / (possibly because I had a double bed? And thru booking.com) whilst I was ok with that. Possibly a walk in here would be E15.
Hospedería. (In Castilblanco).. @laineylainey sent me the link ... and yes it is up the hill to the left (up to very top- then right) virtually as you reach the gas station Repsol . huge cream building on RH side of street. Probably ok in busier times. But I was the only guest and it could be take for ‘Fawlty Towers’. This was prepaid as its on Airbnb .

The arroyos in the park. I got slight wet feet on only one crossing that was over the road. Nothing to make note of though.

Ps. I think Joe is probably pretty hardy and wouldn’t notice a few boxes Laurie.
Annie

 

[Anniesantiago]

Buen Camino, Annie!
I loved this route!

 

[aussieannie]

I’ve just walked into Almadén de la Plata around midday today - it’s day 3 for me and feel it’s time I added a little to this Vdlp section.

Arrived Friday afternoon in Sevilla airport. The bus to town E4 is to the left exiting the airport. Many stops - I got out at final stop ‘Plaza de Armas’ bus station. I had only a few minutes walk to my Bnb (recommended earlier on forum by @gracethepilgrim ) . 2 nights there. Excellent and spacious. It’s on air Bnb but I contacted Angel the host directly. He is super host.
Although I’ve been the Sevilla before .. so much more to see this time.
Obtained the stamp on my credencial at the catedral and bought some gifts for grandchildren at the catedral shop. (More weight already !!)

Day 1 Sunday 7th. Caught bus to Itálica from ‘Plaza de Armas’ at 8.30am (Italica opens at 9am),
Fare is E1.60. Being Sunday it seems free entry ..
Put Mochilla into locker and walked around the ruins etc. really worthwhile .
Started walk to Guillena around 11am from there. This is such an easy walk (if fit) but I must admit I was so glad I’d bussed out through the suburban Sevilla first to santiponce (& Itálica)., as after recent health problems interfered with my training ., I was completely ‘had it’ on reaching my accommodation that day ‘Bar Francés ‘. Partially because being cooler I hadn’t been hydrating enough .. lesson learnt .
The walk itself was a nice gently undulating straight dirt path almost whole way. Weather was great for walking .. starting that time I only saw one group of walkers (4 Spanish gents ). We came to the beam across the stream together. I was glad to get that out of the way. Not as scary as I’d imagined. Getting older , I’m a little more wary about balance, but I did just fine.
Day 2 Guillena to castilblanco de Los arroyos .
No rain to start but had been raining previous days and lively new Brooks Ghost 11 trail runners were initiated with mud. Mud caking so much I became quite tall ! (that’s stretching it!), I’m a shorty. Pointlessly I kept trying to clear the build up and moved off path and back etc but to no avail. Frustrating.. but I’ve been fortunate on all other caminos. I’ve never experienced this mud., so it was my turn. Then the rain .. not heavy but enough so that you didn’t want to take a break . I arrived around 2pm and was heading to find a menu Del día but a call from behind me - someone kindly letting me know I was passing the albergue. I explained I had a booking at Hospedería de la Plata. Well too long a story explaining that one but an half hour later I once again headed for menu del día at Café Mansilla which is part of same building I think as Casa Macarena. They were very helpful in finding out whether the Hospedería was open or closed. I had overlooked in my information that one can only check in after 3pm. Hence it appeared abandoned.
Once I did get to meet the host Gustavo., the rest of that day and night has more than enough material for an episode of ‘faulty towers ‘. He disappeared after that. . I honestly had wished I’d gone to the Albergue where I could have at least found someone to ask questions of why doesn’t the hot water come through and why does the power go off. I believe the power thing does happen in spain according to Gustavo. It was fixed by 6.30 pm to his credit.

Day 3. Gustavo arranged taxi from café mansilla at 8am. (Not my choice ) I assumed I had to go with it. I walked down the hill to café mansilla at 7am to have breakfast there. (They are open from very early). I assumed there would be others but I was the only passenger. E25 fare to drop off at entrance to park.
I had no problems paying it but gathered it would be shared. A minute after drop off, another taxi drops off one passenger . Her fare was e20 from same start point. I heard from a couple who walked the whole way that there were taxis going to and fro constantly ..ha ha. So taxi business is doing well.
We passed about 12 or so Peregrinos walking this section. So I saw a lot more pilgrims today.
Great walking day. It was also lovely to have company of Bárbara (a German lady ) - the one who got out of the 2nd taxi.
I’m staying at Casa de Jenaro E30. Very clean -double bed. Large room /bathroom is separate and shared but other rooms are not occupied so I have the bathroom to myself! Loads of hot water.!

Tomorrow I’ll only walk the ist part of stage in gronze. So just to El Real de la Jara.
Annie

Buen Camino Annie! Good to see you on the road again - brought back great memories of my VDLP Camino in 2013 when the streams were flooded & I had to take off my boots & wade through! I will be starting from Lisbon first week in June so too late to meet up with you in Santiago!

 

[Marc S.]

hi Annie. Great to see you are on the camino again. Buen Camino !! Marc.

 

[laineylainey]

Annie, great to see your posts. Thanks for the kind words about my own disapointment in last minute cancelling of my VdlP, but at least I can experience a bit through you and make adjustments to my plan - like possibly not staying at Hospederia de la Plata in Castilblanco!!
Elaine

 

[OzAnnie]

Buen Camino Annie! Good to see you on the road again - brought back great memories of my VDLP Camino in 2013 when the streams were flooded & I had to take off my boots & wade through! I will be starting from Lisbon first week in June so too late to meet up with you in Santiago!

Hi Qld Annie. Now I realise who you are. We were with Laurie in Santiago. !! Thanks for the response.

 

[OzAnnie]

hi Annie. Great to see you are on the camino again. Buen Camino !! Marc.

Hi Marc.
A bit different to the Salvador... but the Vdlp right now is green, green, green and many flowering plants that I can’t name ., but I recognise the lavender , the poppies , lupins, white daisies with yellow centres. I just don’t know what the flowering shrub is called ? Looks like a wrinkly white paper petal with yellow centres and 5 black dots on petals. So many shrubs of these (see pic). Also not as fit now. Really feeling the short distances.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Qld Annie. Now I realise who you are. We were with Laurie in Santiago. !! Thanks for the response.

What? Ann is back on the forum?! Starting from Lisbon in early June means we will not coincide this year.

Those white bushes are called jara bushes. Not sure what they are, but they are everywhere and sometimes it makes for a walk through endless petals, how lovely. I remember my first time on the Vdlp in early May and having to adjust my reaction — not every white thing lying on the side of the camino is used toilet paper.

Are you in Monesterio tonight? They say it’s the ham capital of Spain, though I know a lot of other places that strenuously object to that self-appointed title.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[OzAnnie]

What? Ann is back on the forum?! Starting from Lisbon in early June means we will not coincide this year.

Those white bushes are called jara bushes. Not sure what they are, but they are everywhere and sometimes it makes for a walk through endless petals, how lovely. I remember my first time on the Vdlp in early May and having to adjust my reaction — not every white thing lying on the side of the camino is used toilet paper.

Are you in Monesterio tonight? They say it’s the ham capital of Spain, though I know a lot of other places that strenuously object to that self-appointed title.

Buen camino, Laurie

Laurie ., no I’m in El Real de la Jara which I thought was so funny as I’d found out this afternoon that the flower was called Jara ( or rock rose). This town has the name of the flower.
They are pretty
I had menu Del día at Mesón de Cochera.. Super food. I’m staying at Olajamiento Molina. (No boxes in the room ).
Went back with my roommate later but I only had orange juice. My afternoon meal at 3.30pm was still keeping me full.

I’ll walk 20ks to Monesterio tomorrow /Thursday.

Someone snuck in quite a few hills today.! Beautiful walk through park and woodland and dehesa I think it’s called. El parque naturale Sierra Norte . It was a relatively short walk but I found it still had more climbing than I expected on this section of Vdlp.

Good to know your walking buddy from 2016 Ann is posting on the forum

Annie

 

[JennyH94]

Great to hear that all is going well Annie - particularly after your health issues.
Camino hugs from all of us at Pilgrims in Sydney -
Buen Camino!
Jenny xxx

 

[peregrina2000]

Great to hear that all is going well Annie - particularly after your health issues.
Camino hugs from all of us at Pilgrims in Sydney -
Buen Camino!
Jenny xxx

Well, my experience and Joe’s have been quite different with regard to a few places, but we both had the same (bad) experience at Hostal Extremadura in Monesterio. So you are forewarned!

 

[OzAnnie]

Well, my experience and Joe’s have been quite different with regard to a few places, but we both had the same (bad) experience at Hostal Extremadura in Monesterio. So you are forewarned!

Oh oh. Then I’ll be coming back to you in 24 hrs as the lady here called and made a booking for my walking pal and I there for tonight. Will keep you posted. (Can you give me a clue what could go wrong @peregrina2000
X

 

[malingerer]

I’ve just walked into Almadén de la Plata around midday today - it’s day 3 for me and feel it’s time I added a little to this Vdlp section.

Arrived Friday afternoon in Sevilla airport. The bus to town E4 is to the left exiting the airport. Many stops - I got out at final stop ‘Plaza de Armas’ bus station. I had only a few minutes walk to my Bnb (recommended earlier on forum by @gracethepilgrim ) . 2 nights there. Excellent and spacious. It’s on air Bnb but I contacted Angel the host directly. He is super host.
Although I’ve been the Sevilla before .. so much more to see this time.
Obtained the stamp on my credencial at the catedral and bought some gifts for grandchildren at the catedral shop. (More weight already !!)

Day 1 Sunday 7th. Caught bus to Itálica from ‘Plaza de Armas’ at 8.30am (Italica opens at 9am),
Fare is E1.60. Being Sunday it seems free entry ..
Put Mochilla into locker and walked around the ruins etc. really worthwhile .
Started walk to Guillena around 11am from there. This is such an easy walk (if fit) but I must admit I was so glad I’d bussed out through the suburban Sevilla first to santiponce (& Itálica)., as after recent health problems interfered with my training ., I was completely ‘had it’ on reaching my accommodation that day ‘Bar Francés ‘. Partially because being cooler I hadn’t been hydrating enough .. lesson learnt .
The walk itself was a nice gently undulating straight dirt path almost whole way. Weather was great for walking .. starting that time I only saw one group of walkers (4 Spanish gents ). We came to the beam across the stream together. I was glad to get that out of the way. Not as scary as I’d imagined. Getting older , I’m a little more wary about balance, but I did just fine.
Day 2 Guillena to castilblanco de Los arroyos .
No rain to start but had been raining previous days and lively new Brooks Ghost 11 trail runners were initiated with mud. Mud caking so much I became quite tall ! (that’s stretching it!), I’m a shorty. Pointlessly I kept trying to clear the build up and moved off path and back etc but to no avail. Frustrating.. but I’ve been fortunate on all other caminos. I’ve never experienced this mud., so it was my turn. Then the rain .. not heavy but enough so that you didn’t want to take a break . I arrived around 2pm and was heading to find a menu Del día but a call from behind me - someone kindly letting me know I was passing the albergue. I explained I had a booking at Hospedería de la Plata. Well too long a story explaining that one but an half hour later I once again headed for menu del día at Café Mansilla which is part of same building I think as Casa Macarena. They were very helpful in finding out whether the Hospedería was open or closed. I had overlooked in my information that one can only check in after 3pm. Hence it appeared abandoned.
Once I did get to meet the host Gustavo., the rest of that day and night has more than enough material for an episode of ‘faulty towers ‘. He disappeared after that. . I honestly had wished I’d gone to the Albergue where I could have at least found someone to ask questions of why doesn’t the hot water come through and why does the power go off. I believe the power thing does happen in spain according to Gustavo. It was fixed by 6.30 pm to his credit.

Day 3. Gustavo arranged taxi from café mansilla at 8am. (Not my choice ) I assumed I had to go with it. I walked down the hill to café mansilla at 7am to have breakfast there. (They are open from very early). I assumed there would be others but I was the only passenger. E25 fare to drop off at entrance to park.
I had no problems paying it but gathered it would be shared. A minute after drop off, another taxi drops off one passenger . Her fare was e20 from same start point. I heard from a couple who walked the whole way that there were taxis going to and fro constantly ..ha ha. So taxi business is doing well.
We passed about 12 or so Peregrinos walking this section. So I saw a lot more pilgrims today.
Great walking day. It was also lovely to have company of Bárbara (a German lady ) - the one who got out of the 2nd taxi.
I’m staying at Casa de Jenaro E30. Very clean -double bed. Large room /bathroom is separate and shared but other rooms are not occupied so I have the bathroom to myself! Loads of hot water.!

Tomorrow I’ll only walk the ist part of stage in gronze. So just to El Real de la Jara.
Annie

Verily thou art a siren and a temptress! I am sitting here besieged with health and wealth problems and gawping out the windows for a sign of swifts who haven't arrived here yet! Nevertheless I shall be magnanimous and add extra prayers for you to my nightly bellyaching to God. I simply say " For the veedlepee: those on it, those who have been on it, and for me that I might do the Salamanca to Astorga bit properly again! Thankee!" Buen Camino Annie and Via con Dios.

The malingerer.

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh oh. Then I’ll be coming back to you in 24 hrs as the lady here called and made a booking for my walking pal and I there for tonight. Will keep you posted. (Can you give me a clue what could go wrong @peregrina2000
X

Hey, Annie, that’s part of the fun! When I was there it was very cold and dirty and unkempt. The next time I went through it was closed, so maybe now it has reopened and is in new management. Buen camino, glad you have found a pel to walk with, too. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Martyduc]

Well, my experience and Joe’s have been quite different with regard to a few places, but we both had the same (bad) experience at Hostal Extremadura in Monesterio. So you are forewarned!

OK,,, but I stayed there just over a week ago and it was perfectly OK,,,

 

[peregrina2000]

OK,,, but I stayed there just over a week ago and it was perfectly OK,,,

I always try to let people know if my experience was from years ago. As I said in my later post, the second time I walked through, it was closed, so I assume it is now under new (and better) management.

 

[tangata hikoi]

Hi Marc.
A bit different to the Salvador... but the Vdlp right now is green, green, green and many flowering plants that I can’t name ., but I recognise the lavender , the poppies , lupins, white daisies with yellow centres. I just don’t know what the flowering shrub is called ? Looks like a wrinkly white paper petal with yellow centres and 5 black dots on petals. So many shrubs of these (see pic). Also not as fit now. Really feeling the short distances.

The common name for it is Rock Rose and it is plentiful in garden centres in NZ and UK

 

[OzAnnie]

Verily thou art a siren and a temptress! I am sitting here besieged with health and wealth problems and gawping out the windows for a sign of swifts who haven't arrived here yet! Nevertheless I shall be magnanimous and add extra prayers for you to my nightly bellyaching to God. I simply say " For the veedlepee: those on it, those who have been on it, and for me that I might do the Salamanca to Astorga bit properly again! Thankee!" Buen Camino Annie and Via con Dios.

The malingerer.

Hi. Malingerer
You bring a smile to my face. Thankyou for including we veedlepees in your prayers. I’m sure they are listened to and I need them.
I hope you do that section again. I will hopefully branch off into the Sanabrés. I won’t be walking all the way this spring though.
It was such a perfect day for walking today. Saw a few birds too. No swifts.
Annie

 

[OzAnnie]

The common name for it is Rock Rose and it is plentiful in garden centres in NZ and UK

Yes Megg.,when we were sitting in the restaurant at real la jara “La cochera” there was a wall photo showing all the common flowers and had a picture of the rock rose. As I’m walking today I haven’t seen the larger petaled variety
congratulations on finishing your camino into Santiago - and Buen Camino for your Finisterra/muxía. Such an enjoyable way.
Annie

 

[tangata hikoi]

Yes Megg.,when we were sitting in the restaurant at real la jara “La cochera” there was a wall photo showing all the common flowers and had a picture of the rock rose. As I’m walking today I haven’t seen the larger petaled variety
congratulations on finishing your camino into Santiago - and Buen Camino for your Finisterra/muxía. Such an enjoyable way.
Annie

Thank you Annie, it's been great, as you are finding out yourself I think?
Buen Camino

 

[OzAnnie]

Hey, Annie, that’s part of the fun! When I was there it was very cold and dirty and unkempt. The next time I went through it was closed, so maybe now it has reopened and is in new management. Buen camino, glad you have found a pel to walk with, too. Buen camino, Laurie

Hi Laurie
My feedback re Hostal Extremadura..
I am sharing a private room - 2 single beds & sheets and bathroom en-suite . E10 per person.
Quite Clean, but very cold. I believe they have bunks also but we asked for the singles . It has a tv but I never turn tv on when travelling. Out front the sun shines so good spot to sit and ponder/drink/socialise . We ate menu Del día there - very ordinary E10, but hit the spot. They all seem friendly. A bit of racket below when we were having siesta but quiet now at 9.30pm. Earlier, I had a siesta then went looking for nibbles etc for tomorrow as there are no stops for 20k (I believe). I did pass the restaurant that gets good reviews but I’m not that much of a foodie . We weren’t hungry later - just drinkies and tapas.

Last night (in Real de la Jara)., stayed at Alojamiento Molina. Bed set up the same as here in Monesterio but lots of warm bedding plus sheets. Bathrooms are separate. Very clean and Conchita is so sweet and helpful . Good drying area for washing. e10 for bed and e2.50 for desayuno. They have an unusual ‘warming ‘ system there .. there are two tables there with heavy cloths over them. You lift one layer and you can feel the heat. There is a sort of fire contained underneath these tables. Looks like a type of hot coals ? Heated stones ?? She said it doesn’t catch fire. It’s weird but it works for them.

The walk today around 20k felt easier than the 13.8 yesterday.. beautiful weather today for walking. Blue sunny sky but nice cool breeze.

Xx
Annie

 

[tangata hikoi]

Hi Laurie
My feedback re Hostal Extremadura..
I am sharing a private room - 2 single beds & sheets and bathroom en-suite . E10 per person.
Quite Clean,but very cold. I believe they have bunks also but we asked for the singles . It has a tv also but I never turn tv on when travelling. Out front the sun shines so good spot to sit. We ate menu Del día there - very ordinary E10. But hit the spot. They all seem friendly. A bit of racket below when we were having siesta but quiet now at 9.30pm. Earlier, Had a siesta then went looking for nibbles etc for tomorrow as there is no stops for 20k I believe. I could see the restaurant that get good reviews but not that much of a foodie . We weren’t hungry later - just drinkies and tapas.

Last night at Alojamiento Molina. Bed set up the same as here but lots of warm bedding plus sheets. Bathrooms are separate. Very clean and Conchita is so sweet and helpful . Good drying area for washing. e10 for bed and e2.50 for desayuno. They have an unusual ‘warming ‘ system there .. there are two tables there with heavy cloths over them. You lift one layer and you can feel the heat. There is a sort of fire contained underneath these tables. Looks like a type of hot coals ? Heated stones ?? She said it doesn’t catch fire. It’s weird but it works for them.

The walk today around 20k felt easier than the 13.8 yesterday.. beautiful weather today for walking. Blue sunny sky but nice cool breeze.

Xx
Annie


L

I found Hostal Extremadura very cold - they wanted to charge us extra for heating - and souless. It was adequate but I can't say any more than that for it. Wanted to stay at the albergue with the priest but it was the day I had a terrible migraine and was all I could do to drag myself in off the main road without trying to find the other place unfortunately!

I loved the Molina Albergue. She was ever so helpful... really homely

 

[C clearly]

I am enjoying these posts, especially when it triggers my memories from 2017. My blog from then says:

Hostal Extremadura: "for €15 I have a private room with bath. Heating doesn’t seem to come at that price, nor do towels and soap, but I am not complaining. Why else would I be carrying both? The thermostat suggests that both heating and cooling are available but I can only feel cold air. There is good hot water, so I got dressed as fast as possible after a shower and jumped into bed with a pile of blankets to ponder my next move. Amazingly, the WiFi reaches my room... "
The next day I wrote: "Hostal Extremadura in Monesterios is not on my recommended list. Freezing cold and no charm, but the price was right."

Alojamiento Molina: "I have a room (€10) in a house, Alojamiento Molina. The room is freezing but I am sitting in the parlor by a heater while the family is out socializing as Spanish families do in the evening. This house has a very Spanish feel – rooms leading to more rooms, some leading to open air courtyards, family photos on every wall. The family (a couple with their adult son) is very nice and seem to have 2 or 3 rooms and a bathroom at the front, for pilgrims. At €10, it is a nice change from albergue and hotels. It is located just around the corner from the church and the restaurant Mesón El Cochera."

 

[laineylainey]

Annie & Laurie, I mean to ask a couple of days ago. Given that most people get a taxi from Castilblanco to Berrecol, which means it's only another 13K to Almaden (I think Annie you mentioned that you got to Almaden at noon?), Is it an okay walk to walk on to Real de la Jara ? Think that would be about 29K?

 

[peregrina2000]

Annie & Laurie, I mean to ask a couple of days ago. Given that most people get a taxi from Castilblanco to Berrecol, which means it's only another 13K to Almaden (I think Annie you mentioned that you got to Almaden at noon?), Is it an okay walk to walk on to Real de la Jara ? Think that would be about 29K?

I haven’t been on that part of the Vdlp in more than a decade, but when I was there, no one took a taxi to the entrance of the park. And there were at least 20 of us. So things must have changed. Not saying that you shouldn’t, but it is not (or at least was not) a dangerous stretch. It is kind of undulating, curving, very little traffic, safe shoulder to walk on, just a regular roadside camino stretch. I can think of other stretches with more reason for a taxi, where the traffic is dangerous, etc. In fact if you took a taxi on the Norte or at the beginning of the Olvidado every time there was 10-15 km of roadside asphalt, you would spend a lot on taxis! So I guess I’m not sure why it seems to be de rigeur to take a taxi now. But that wasn’t your question, sorry. In any event, it would make a very do-able day to walk on to Real de la Jara, IMO.

 

[tangata hikoi]

I haven’t been on that part of the Vdlp in more than a decade, but when I was there, no one took a taxi to the entrance of the park. And there were at least 20 of us. So things must have changed. Not saying that you shouldn’t, but it is not (or at least was not) a dangerous stretch. It is kind of undulating, curving, very little traffic, safe shoulder to walk on, just a regular roadside camino stretch. I can think of other stretches with more reason for a taxi, where the traffic is dangerous, etc. In fact if you took a taxi on the Norte or at the beginning of the Olvidado every time there was 10-15 km of roadside asphalt, you would spend a lot on taxis! So I guess I’m not sure why it seems to be de rigeur to take a taxi now. But that wasn’t your question, sorry. In any event, it would make a very do-able day to walk on to Real de la Jara, IMO.

I agree Laurie. I think someone has made a negative comment in the reports somewhere - I certainly read it when researching my trip - and it has become a bit of a bogie. I did take the taxi with three others but some on my day did not. I think perhaps one reason I did so was because I was not very fit yet and 29kms for me on the third day felt too much. I was needing to build up my capacity and there was no where to stay on the way or break it into a smaller chunk. Two people I was with were in a similar position.
Those that did walk said it was fine. A quiet stretch of road and not much traffic.
Would I walk it next time - yes, if I was fitter on starting. 29kms became nothing as I got further in in the Camino but on the third day this time would have been too much. I'm a little less flabby now!
Megg

 

[laineylainey]

Certainly might not be as "hairy" as some I have experienced on the VdlP already last year and other routes ( El Salvador comes to mind one stretch in particular), but then it is all subjective. I got the impression from Annie, than the taxi service now was a bit of a "one passenger at a time" scheme, but perhaps in busier times there is a lot more sharing.
Thanks to you and Megg for your own impressions of the road walk.

 

[camino07]

As Megg said, I found it too long a distance for my third day so 5 of us shared a big taxi 5 euros each.
I stayed with the Senora but seemingly the taxi folk went around the Albergue asking who wanted a taxi the evening before.

 

[OzAnnie]

Certainly might not be as "hairy" as some I have experienced on the VdlP already last year and other routes ( El Salvador comes to mind one stretch in particular), but then it is all subjective. I got the impression from Annie, than the taxi service now was a bit of a "one passenger at a time" scheme, but perhaps in busier times there is a lot more sharing.
Thanks to you and Megg for your own impressions of the road walk.

Elaine
Re the taxi thing. I had heard that it was dangerous but also a long slog on edge of road might be considered ‘scary’. I have heard both versions from those that walked it that day. A father with his 8 yr old son told me that he wouldn’t like his wife at home to know that the cars were a bit too close for comfort. But I understand it is nothing to most pilgrims.

Re the sharing etc. my amigos who shared taxis in previous years had done so after having it arranged at an Albergue. Maybe because mine was arranged separately...no thought of sharing was made. I had expected that the taxi driver would have had several calls for a particular time and you would just share as a matter of course.
Buen Camino
Annie

 

[laineylainey]

Thanks Annie, how´s it going?

 

[P Rat]

Hi Annie! Can we recommend an absolute gem of a hostel at Fuente de Cantos? If not too late....
Apartamentos Rurales El Zaguán de la Plata, Calle Llerena 40. Gorgeous setting and generous host. Breakfast included and for 5€ he even washes and dries your laundry... we were 2 of us so not sure what the charge is for a single room. The dormitory looked cold but the rooms are special!

 

[Liz Drew]

I’ve just walked into Almadén de la Plata around midday today - it’s day 3 for me and feel it’s time I added a little to this Vdlp section.

Arrived Friday afternoon in Sevilla airport. The bus to town E4 is to the left exiting the airport. Many stops - I got out at final stop ‘Plaza de Armas’ bus station. I had only a few minutes walk to my Bnb (recommended earlier on forum by @gracethepilgrim ) . 2 nights there. Excellent and spacious. It’s on air Bnb but I contacted Angel the host directly. He is super host.
Although I’ve been the Sevilla before .. so much more to see this time.
Obtained the stamp on my credencial at the catedral and bought some gifts for grandchildren at the catedral shop. (More weight already !!)

Day 1 Sunday 7th. Caught bus to Itálica from ‘Plaza de Armas’ at 8.30am (Italica opens at 9am),
Fare is E1.60. Being Sunday it seems free entry ..
Put Mochilla into locker and walked around the ruins etc. really worthwhile .
Started walk to Guillena around 11am from there. This is such an easy walk (if fit) but I must admit I was so glad I’d bussed out through the suburban Sevilla first to santiponce (& Itálica)., as after recent health problems interfered with my training ., I was completely ‘had it’ on reaching my accommodation that day ‘Bar Francés ‘. Partially because being cooler I hadn’t been hydrating enough .. lesson learnt .
The walk itself was a nice gently undulating straight dirt path almost whole way. Weather was great for walking .. starting that time I only saw one group of walkers (4 Spanish gents ). We came to the beam across the stream together. I was glad to get that out of the way. Not as scary as I’d imagined. Getting older , I’m a little more wary about balance, but I did just fine.
Day 2 Guillena to castilblanco de Los arroyos .
No rain to start but had been raining previous days and lively new Brooks Ghost 11 trail runners were initiated with mud. Mud caking so much I became quite tall ! (that’s stretching it!), I’m a shorty. Pointlessly I kept trying to clear the build up and moved off path and back etc but to no avail. Frustrating.. but I’ve been fortunate on all other caminos. I’ve never experienced this mud., so it was my turn. Then the rain .. not heavy but enough so that you didn’t want to take a break . I arrived around 2pm and was heading to find a menu Del día but a call from behind me - someone kindly letting me know I was passing the albergue. I explained I had a booking at Hospedería de la Plata. Well too long a story explaining that one but an half hour later I once again headed for menu del día at Café Mansilla which is part of same building I think as Casa Macarena. They were very helpful in finding out whether the Hospedería was open or closed. I had overlooked in my information that one can only check in after 3pm. Hence it appeared abandoned.
Once I did get to meet the host Gustavo., the rest of that day and night has more than enough material for an episode of ‘faulty towers ‘. He disappeared after that. . I honestly had wished I’d gone to the Albergue where I could have at least found someone to ask questions of why doesn’t the hot water come through and why does the power go off. I believe the power thing does happen in spain according to Gustavo. It was fixed by 6.30 pm to his credit.

Day 3. Gustavo arranged taxi from café mansilla at 8am. (Not my choice ) I assumed I had to go with it. I walked down the hill to café mansilla at 7am to have breakfast there. (They are open from very early). I assumed there would be others but I was the only passenger. E25 fare to drop off at entrance to park.
I had no problems paying it but gathered it would be shared. A minute after drop off, another taxi drops off one passenger . Her fare was e20 from same start point. I heard from a couple who walked the whole way that there were taxis going to and fro constantly ..ha ha. So taxi business is doing well.
We passed about 12 or so Peregrinos walking this section. So I saw a lot more pilgrims today.
Great walking day. It was also lovely to have company of Bárbara (a German lady ) - the one who got out of the 2nd taxi.
I’m staying at Casa de Jenaro E30. Very clean -double bed. Large room /bathroom is separate and shared but other rooms are not occupied so I have the bathroom to myself! Loads of hot water.!

Tomorrow I’ll only walk the ist part of stage in gronze. So just to El Real de la Jara.
Annie

You’re one year behind me! Enjoy!

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Annie! Can we recommend an absolute gem of a hostel at Fuente de Cantos? If not too late....
Apartamentos Rurales El Zaguán de la Plata, Calle Llerena 40. Gorgeous setting and generous host. Breakfast included and for 5€ he even washes and dries your laundry... we were 2 of us so not sure what the charge is for a single room. The dormitory looked cold but the rooms are special!

Thanks for that. Yes we passed Fuente de Cantos, and as most people recommend it .El Zaguan, we also stayed in a room for 2 upstairs. It’s everything you say. We only bothered with the washing. He did the washing for both for E2 and we hung it out - dried quickly. They appear to send flyers far and wide for advertising but it lives up to it. We paid E2 extra for simple breakfast which was good.
Very comfortable place to stay

Last night at Zafros in Albergue Vincente Van Gogh . In the dorm. Although it is a nice building and clean and the roof terrace is a good spot to partake of a drink etc., during times of full or almost full there is only one bathroom on ground floor for quite a large number of men and women.
So not sure how many downstairs Camas but only one bathroom with shower/toilet .. upstairs has more Camas (I didn’t count ) and I had thought only one bathroom but I was told today that there were 2 bathrooms on top level.
Breakfast is at 7am but don’t ask for a 2nd cup of coffee as only 1 per pilgrim .. 1 small croissant also. No toast but those fried toasted squares from Supermarket.. Antonio himself was quite friendly and the donativo is a min E12. Just wasn’t expecting the limitation for breakfast. Having been hospitalera at Grado where the pilgrims were very well catered for re breakfast.
Annie

 

[tangata hikoi]

Thanks for that. Yes we passed Fuente de Cantos, and as most people recommend it .El Zaguan, we also stayed in a room for 2 upstairs. It’s everything you say. We only bothered with the washing. He did the washing for both for E2 and we hung it out - dried quickly. They appear to send flyers far and wide for advertising but it lives up to it. We paid E2 extra for simple breakfast which was good.
Very comfortable place to stay

Last night at Zafros in Albergue Vincente Van Gogh . In the dorm. Although it is a nice building and clean and the roof terrace is a good spot to partake of a drink etc., during times of full or almost full there is only one bathroom on ground floor for quite a large number of men and women.
So not sure how many downstairs Camas but only one bathroom with shower/toilet .. upstairs has more Camas (I didn’t count ) and I had thought only one bathroom but I was told today that there were 2 bathrooms on top level.
Breakfast is at 7am but don’t ask for a 2nd cup of coffee as only 1 per pilgrim .. 1 small croissant also. No toast but those fried toasted squares from Supermarket.. Antonio himself was quite friendly and the donativo is a min E12. Just wasn’t expecting the limitation for breakfast. Having been hospitalera at Grado where the pilgrims were very well catered for re breakfast.
Annie

I stayed at Van Gogh and it sticks in my mind as one of the most unpleasant experiences on the VLDP. We were quite a few people - about 16 I think - and all downstairs - I assumed they did not want to have to clean upstairs. So we were tight on space which is a bit irritating when there IS more space but you are just not allowed to use it. Also the bathroom has everything in one room, toilet, shower, basin for ALL those people. So if someone wants to pee or shower no one can do anything else.
There are bathrooms upstairs and in the morning when I tried to use it to pee it was grudgingly allowed. One toilet for 16 people is quite a big ask especially first thing when you are needing your first pee of the day!
I didn't bother with breakfast even though I'd had to pay for it - tried not to but was told we had to pay.
I found it annoying that the main dormitory (which had the bunks so tightly crammed in it was not possible to walk between the beds with out sidling) managed to have someone's easel and painting gear set out in the end of the room while we struggled to find a space to set our backpacks out.
Altogether not a great experience I thought.
Megg

 

[P Rat]

Thanks for that. Yes we passed Fuente de Cantos, and as most people recommend it .El Zaguan, we also stayed in a room for 2 upstairs. It’s everything you say. We only bothered with the washing. He did the washing for both for E2 and we hung it out - dried quickly. They appear to send flyers far and wide for advertising but it lives up to it. We paid E2 extra for simple breakfast which was good.
Very comfortable place to stay

Last night at Zafros in Albergue Vincente Van Gogh . In the dorm. Although it is a nice building and clean and the roof terrace is a good spot to partake of a drink etc., during times of full or almost full there is only one bathroom on ground floor for quite a large number of men and women.
So not sure how many downstairs Camas but only one bathroom with shower/toilet .. upstairs has more Camas (I didn’t count ) and I had thought only one bathroom but I was told today that there were 2 bathrooms on top level.
Breakfast is at 7am but don’t ask for a 2nd cup of coffee as only 1 per pilgrim .. 1 small croissant also. No toast but those fried toasted squares from Supermarket.. Antonio himself was quite friendly and the donativo is a min E12. Just wasn’t expecting the limitation for breakfast. Having been hospitalera at Grado where the pilgrims were very well catered for re breakfast.
Annie

Yes we stayed there too. Not too many of us though so the bathroom wasn’t an issue that day. Got the award for most friendly canary
And we had a second breakfast after that one...first one didn’t touch the sides. Lol. We’re going slower the next few days (just had 2 nights in Mérida) so who knows we catch up (Need to be in Salamanca then Madrid on the last day of April so heaps of time Then back to the Camino about the 4-5 May. Family catch up, yay!)

 

[Linda bicigrina]

Tks for the info above .. I hadn’t booked for tonight yet but nice to know that I can take a chance on Olajamiento Molina. ( edit : I checked in at 1.30 and I’m at the yummy restaurant now 3.15pm enjoying the menu del día.
Laurie
Casa de Jenaro (Almadén) is on booking.com but I did notice it wasn’t on gronze or elsewhere. Strange that they have pricing sheets around the place showing E15 per person but I paid E30 / (possibly because I had a double bed? And thru booking.com) whilst I was ok with that. Possibly a walk in here would be E15.
Hospedería. (In Castilblanco).. @laineylainey sent me the link ... and yes it is up the hill to the left (up to very top- then right) virtually as you reach the gas station Repsol . huge cream building on RH side of street. Probably ok in busier times. But I was the only guest and it could be take for ‘Fawlty Towers’. This was prepaid as its on Airbnb .

The arroyos in the park. I got slight wet feet on only one crossing that was over the road. Nothing to make note of though.

Ps. I think Joe is probably pretty hardy and wouldn’t notice a few boxes Laurie.
Annie

Can anyone explain what the gronze is or how to find it please. Linda

 

[OzAnnie]

Can anyone explain what the gronze is or how to find it please. Linda

Linda
It’s an internet site.
www.gronze.com

Once you’re in there you can save the site to your desktop for future use.
Gronze has I information listed on quite a few caminos. Click the one you want. It is in Spanish but all the distances details are simple to follow. It gives the map of the stage. Also if you tap on Ver perfil de la etapa. It will show you the ups and downs (put simply ).
Have a play with it. It gives lots of of info and you can do bookings straight from it

Annie

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Great to see you’re going well Annie. I know you’ve passed Zafra but this note may help those reading your notes for upcoming VdlP…...
I like to recommend the ‘other’ albergue in Zafra (ie Albergue Convento San Francisco, Av. Fuente del Maestre, 2) as it is closer to the centre and super friendly - right on the camino. It has plenty of bathrooms (each small dorm has own). Really lovely and friendly each time I have stayed. Most people tend to stop at the 1st one (V G) and miss out on this lovely one.
Also treat yourself to a lovely coffee (or something stronger) in the Parador cafe.

Buen Camino Annie

 

[OzAnnie]

Great to see you’re going well Annie. I know you’ve passed Zafra but this note may help those reading your notes for upcoming VdlP…...
I like to recommend the ‘other’ albergue in Zafra (ie Albergue Convento San Francisco, Av. Fuente del Maestre, 2) as it is closer to the centre and super friendly - right on the camino. It has plenty of bathrooms (each small dorm has own). Really lovely and friendly each time I have stayed. Most people tend to stop at the 1st one (V G) and miss out on this lovely one.
Also treat yourself to a lovely coffee (or something stronger) in the Parador cafe.

Buen Camino Annie

Very helpful info Grace ..
As you say V V G is on the way in and you don’t really get to see much of Zafra if you’re tired only stay the one night.
I had heard about the Convento but the Vvg gets the advertising I think. Great tips
Annie

 

[Linda bicigrina]

Linda
It’s an internet site.
www.gronze.com

Once you’re in there you can save the site to your desktop for future use.
Gronze has I information listed on quite a few caminos. Click the one you want. It is in Spanish but all the distances details are simple to follow. It gives the map of the stage. Also if you tap on Ver perfil de la etapa. It will show you the ups and downs (put simply ).
Have a play with it. It gives lots of of info and you can do bookings straight from it

Annie

Many thanks for this info Annie, I have looked at the site and found it very helpful.

 

[tangata hikoi]

Great to see you’re going well Annie. I know you’ve passed Zafra but this note may help those reading your notes for upcoming VdlP…...
I like to recommend the ‘other’ albergue in Zafra (ie Albergue Convento San Francisco, Av. Fuente del Maestre, 2) as it is closer to the centre and super friendly - right on the camino. It has plenty of bathrooms (each small dorm has own). Really lovely and friendly each time I have stayed. Most people tend to stop at the 1st one (V G) and miss out on this lovely one.
Also treat yourself to a lovely coffee (or something stronger) in the Parador cafe.

Buen Camino Annie

I thought the convent had closed? And understood the Van Gogh Albergue was the only one now in Zafra...I might have that wrong. Perhaps someone else can confirm?
Megg

 

[peregrina2000]

I thought the convent had closed? And understood the Van Gogh Albergue was the only one now in Zafra...I might have that wrong. Perhaps someone else can confirm?
Megg

According to gronze, it closed in 2018 for renovation, no news on reopening yet. https://www.gronze.com/extremadura/badajoz/zafra/albergue-convento-san-francisco

This is one of those "albergues turisticos" -- usually buildings owned by the government (and in my experience usually historic or at least older buildings) and licensed by a private operator. Torremejía, Fuente de Cantos, and Oliva de Plasencia jump to mind. The Embalse is one, too, though, and that surely is not an historic building! Hope all is going well for @OzAnnie!

 

[Davey Boyd]

I stayed at Van Gogh and it sticks in my mind as one of the most unpleasant experiences on the VLDP. We were quite a few people - about 16 I think - and all downstairs - I assumed they did not want to have to clean upstairs. So we were tight on space which is a bit irritating when there IS more space but you are just not allowed to use it. Also the bathroom has everything in one room, toilet, shower, basin for ALL those people. So if someone wants to pee or shower no one can do anything else.
There are bathrooms upstairs and in the morning when I tried to use it to pee it was grudgingly allowed. One toilet for 16 people is quite a big ask especially first thing when you are needing your first pee of the day!
I didn't bother with breakfast even though I'd had to pay for it - tried not to but was told we had to pay.
I found it annoying that the main dormitory (which had the bunks so tightly crammed in it was not possible to walk between the beds with out sidling) managed to have someone's easel and painting gear set out in the end of the room while we struggled to find a space to set our backpacks out.
Altogether not a great experience I thought.
Megg

When I stayed there I thought the place was nice. Except for the guy in charge (Antonio)? He was very unfriendly, made me feel most unwelcome. Never smiled once. Due to the good reports I have read of this albergue and him (before and after) I took it that a) he was having a bad day (we all do), or b) He really did not like me for some reason. There were only 5-6 of us pilgrims there at the time so not busy.

Would probably stay there again though. Just to see...

Davey

 

[tangata hikoi]

When I stayed there I thought the place was nice. Except for the guy in charge (Antonio)? He was very unfriendly, made me feel most unwelcome. Never smiled once. Due to the good reports I have read of this albergue and him (before and after) I took it that a) he was having a bad day (we all do), or b) He really did not like me for some reason. There were only 5-6 of us pilgrims there at the time so not busy.

Would probably stay there again though. Just to see...

Davey

He did not smile for me either - I felt 'watched'

 

[Davey Boyd]

He did not smile for me either - I felt 'watched'

Yes me too, 'watched' describes the feeling I had well.

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi out there. I haven’t had a lot of ‘free’ time to update here but I will
I am tonight in Alcuésar staying at Casa Peregrina.
A small number of beds in private Albergue run by Dorothea. A German woman who has walked many caminos. She has a washing machine which I was about to use ....but it started raining with hail so decided to hand wash minimum.
She is more than helpful and us away picking up pilgrims from Aljucén who can’t find accommodation tonight. It was completo quite early today & completo yesterday but later.

I am heading to Valdesalor tomorrow. Can anyone tell me what options I have there? I haven’t booked but I believe privates may be all booked. Do you know whether I can reserve a bed at the municipal? I believe Megg @tangata hikoi stayed and was positive about it ?
Are there any other options ? Laurie Joe ? Grace ? @prat

Tks for any responses?
Annie

 

[tangata hikoi]

Hi Annie
The Municipal was good - had a washing machine to. Recommend the little restaurant there El Rincon I think.
One pilgrim stayed in a Hostal Posada in the town so there is other accommodation available. I don't remember another Albergue though.
Megg

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Annie
The Municipal was good - had a washing machine to. Recommend the little restaurant there El Rincon I think.
One pilgrim stayed in a Hostal Posada in the town so there is other accommodation available. I don't remember another Albergue though.
Megg

Thanks Megg
Do you know if you can reserve a bed at the municipal? Or is the procedure to stop at the bar and collect a key ?
Are there many beds that you recall ?
Tks
Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi out there. I haven’t had a lot of ‘free’ time to update here but I will
I am tonight in Alcuésar staying at Casa Peregrina.
A small number of beds in private Albergue run by Dorothea. A German woman who has walked many caminos. She has a washing machine which I was about to use ....but it started raining with hail so decided to hand wash minimum.
She is more than helpful and us away picking up pilgrims from Aljucén who can’t find accommodation tonight. It was completo quite early today & completo yesterday but later.

I am heading to Valdesalor tomorrow. Can anyone tell me what options I have there? I haven’t booked but I believe privates may be all booked. Do you know whether I can reserve a bed at the municipal? I believe Megg @tangata hikoi stayed and was positive about it ?
Are there any other options ? Laurie Joe ? Grace ? @prat

Tks for any responses?
Annie

Hi, Annie, Good to hear from you. The municipal in Valdesalor looks very nice. IT is relatively new, because when I went by in 2008 or 2010 people were still sleeping in the town hall. Right at the entrance to town, 14 beds according to Gronze. https://www.gronze.com/extremadura/caceres/valdesalor/albergue-peregrinos-valdesalor

There is also the option of Aldea de Cano. I got there late in the day after a very long walk, and there was room. It’s nothing fancy but people are very nice and it is across the street from a restaurant that treats pilgrims well. It is really a very short detour off the Camino and then you don’t backtrack to get back on the Camino.

 

[OzAnnie]

Thanks a bunch Laurie.
I really want to get to Valdesalor tomorrow (if possible - but rained is forecast. Was for today too, but walked before it came ). My plan for Sunday is to walk a shorter walk into Cáceres.... look around. Lunch etc. and make my way to Casar de Caseres .. I don’t really want that to be a long one.
I just wondered for tomorrow to Valdesalor? - whether one ‘turns up’ at municipal and take your chances or whether you can reserve a cama ?

Edit : by my reckoning @peregrina2000 it’s almost 1am where you live. Your dedication is leaving me lost for words

Annie

 

[P Rat]

Hi Annie
Valdesalor doesn’t take bookings. Nice hostel though! Valdesalor does have a private pension and I think it’s called Posada de la Plata. Good luck!

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks a bunch Laurie.
I really want to get to Valdesalor tomorrow (if possible - but rained is forecast. Was for today too, but walked before it came ). My plan for Sunday is to walk a shorter walk into Cáceres.... look around. Lunch etc. and make my way to Casar de Caseres .. I don’t really want that to be a long one.
I just wondered for tomorrow to Valdesalor? - whether one ‘turns up’ at municipal and take your chances or whether you can reserve a cama ?

Edit : by my reckoning @peregrina2000 it’s almost 1am where you live. Your dedication is leaving me lost for words

Annie

Well, yes I am dedicated to you, but it is 1:27 pm here in Illinois. I see your logic, so I would say just forge ahead to Valdesalor and hope for the best. One day long long ago, I had slept in Alcuéscar and arrived in Valdesalor to see the biggest snorer I had ever met walking up to the albergue. I sat and had a long break and gathered my forces and walked on to Cáceres. It was then the longest I had ever walked and I was pretty amazed at myself. So that is probably the least preferable option, but an option nonetheless.

Lucky you -- walking from Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres is not likely to be the relentless zoom zoom zoom of trucks and cars barreling past you, since you will not be walking on a weekday morning. Consider yourself VERY lucky.

 

[OzAnnie]

That’s good feedback. Thanks all. It’s all I need. I’ll let you know the outcome tomorrow.
X

 

[tangata hikoi]

Just confirming that you get the key to the municipal from the bar - pleasant bar and barman. And pretty sure you can't reserve a bed. Hostal Posada is not too expensive if needed I think...
Hope the rain eases off for you Annie
Megg

 

[jpflavin1]

Hi out there. I haven’t had a lot of ‘free’ time to update here but I will
I am tonight in Alcuésar staying at Casa Peregrina.
A small number of beds in private Albergue run by Dorothea. A German woman who has walked many caminos. She has a washing machine which I was about to use ....but it started raining with hail so decided to hand wash minimum.
She is more than helpful and us away picking up pilgrims from Aljucén who can’t find accommodation tonight. It was completo quite early today & completo yesterday but later.

I am heading to Valdesalor tomorrow. Can anyone tell me what options I have there? I haven’t booked but I believe privates may be all booked. Do you know whether I can reserve a bed at the municipal? I believe Megg @tangata hikoi stayed and was positive about it ?
Are there any other options ? Laurie Joe ? Grace ? @prat

Tks for any responses?
Annie

I do not remember the name of the place but it is the first building as you enter the town (12 beds?). One of the bar owners was there waiting with the key. The food was good at the bar but not a lot of choice. There is also a washing machine.

Both bars good. I had dinner in one and breakfast in the other. Very quiet little village.

Joe

 

[C clearly]

Good to hear from you @OzAnnie .You can't miss the albergue as you enter the town. It is managed by the owners of the bar El Rincon de Julia, who are very friendly and serve excellent food.

 

[OzAnnie]

Aaaagh. I kept moving today as I needed to get a cama at the Albergue in Valdesalor..(14 places) Rain for the first 40 minutes and then it cleared. I arrived at 2.15 and all the bottom bunks were taken. An Italian gentleman gave me his bottom bunk. !
Had menú Del día at Rincón de Julia.
Returned to clean up and use the washing machine. The Spanish lady who was here checking that everyone had paid / got the machine running Choosing a long cycle. It’s 6pm and I’m waiting for it to finish. Patience, patience...

Tomorrow it seems nothing private available at Casar de Cáceres and so will have to hoof it tomorrow to grab a bed at the Albergue there. Nothing available in Cáseres- we’ve all checked and the money lady confirmed- Nada.

You can ring the embalse albergue and reserve a bed ., so I’ve done that for Monday 22nd

Hoping the Easter tourists will have left by then.

Annie

 

[laineylainey]

Annie, perhaps prepare for a couple more days after Monday, accommodation wise? Where are you planning to stop, maybe some ideas from the forum?

 

[OzAnnie]

Yes maybe good idea. I had a rough plan (in my bag). I think I’d thought about hotel Asturias for one night but I haven’t got anything booked.
I did find an apartment in Casar de Cáceres for Sunday 21 - now I can relax and enjoy some time walking through Cásares.. knowing I don’t have to rush to the Albergue
22nd Monday is covered with a reservation at the albergue. After that I’ll look at tomorrow.

Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

Yes maybe good idea. I had a rough plan (in my bag). I think I’d thought about hotel Asturias for one night but I haven’t got anything booked.
I did find an apartment in Casar de Cáceres for Sunday 21 - now I can relax and enjoy some time walking through Cásares.. knowing I don’t have to rush to the Albergue
22nd Monday is covered with a reservation at the albergue. After that I’ll look at tomorrow.

Annie

Hi, Annie,
Looks like you will have survived the Holy Week onslaught. I am very glad you will have a bit of time to wander through Cáceres, I bet you will love it. Its Renaissance old center is gorgeous. If it were in Tuscany, it’d be mobbed every day. Just head up from the main square and you will be right there.

Glad you found an apartment in Casar de Cáceres, how did you find it? Sharing with others? That is surely a better bet than the municipal albergue! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi, Annie,
Looks like you will have survived the Holy Week onslaught.

Glad you found an apartment in Casar de Cáceres, how did you find it? Sharing with others? That is surely a better bet than the municipal albergue! Buen camino, Laurie

Hi Laurie
I have a feeling beds may be difficult for a short while. The numbers on my days are exceeding beds about. Certainly not much room if depending on Albergues. Last night at Valdesalor/ Albergue has 14 places.

I kept looking at booking com for Casar de Cáceres and the ‘Apartamentos Andrada ‘ eventually popped up. E70 / but with my user disc is E58. Most people were either already previously booked or preferred to chance getting a bunk at the albergue. No reservations available and my feet were throbbing during last night from yesterday’s walk. I had kept moving as didn’t want to chance not finding a bed.
So my Apartamentos is for one !
I need to get some sleep though so I’m content with paying the price. Averaging last night at Albergue E6 and tonight, brings it back to reasonable figure in my mind.

Ok. Albergue municipal at Valdesalor.. E6
Has free washing machine but you have to get the liquid from El Rincón de Julia. Not sure how to set for faster wash but setting for economico runs for 90 minutes. It was 6.30pm when it ‘Fin’
Good wind and still some sol so my washing was dry by 7.30pm. I then went up to have a vino with the others at El Rincón bar Julia .
I had enjoyed an afternoon menú del día there. I think it was E9.90. Tasty enough.
Julia works like a Trojan. She greeted me earlier at the Albergue.. then she was flat out at el Rincón. Trying to get some lunch herself and work at same time. Later she was working the evening at the bar as well.
Although she said el Rincón would be open for breakfast at 7 or 7.30am. Nothing was open this morning. Very understandable and expected being Easter Sunday. Most of us grabbed a machine coffee at Repsol just on exit.

Now having a rest in Cáseres.. later will wander out to Casar as I can’t check in until after 3pm anyway.
Ps. The booking com for this apartment was followed by online check in which seems very detailed etc / completing details and submitting passport photo before they send you details ..
If you don’t have a SIM card to access etc or wifi it could be a problem especially if you can’t read/understand, all the Spanish. It was handy for me to have google to translate.

Note: This rush would I’m sure not be happening to people pre and post Easter. I’d love to hear from those following.

Also., I am contemplating staying 2 nights if possible at the Albergue at the embalse ? A Dutch couple I have spoken with said they have reserved 2 nights. Not sure if I can but will let you know.

Annie

PPS
After that,what do you think would be best bet to stop ?

 

[Martyduc]

After the Embalse last year, stayed at Grimaldo

 

[laineylainey]

Personally I would find it a bit boring to stay at El Embalse at Alcántara for 2 days as there is nothing to see apart from the resevoire.
Because of the heat last year we got a taxi from El Embalse in the morning to Canaveral and then walked to Riobolos, but I think Grimaldo would be a good choice.

 

[OzAnnie]

Thanks Marty @Martyduc
With lights out etc I didn’t want to scrummage for my plans on paper. I could remember Asturias and I think my plan was Grimaldo.. I will look at what’s available for either Tuesday or Wednesday
Thankyou
Annie

 

[laineylainey]

By the way that apartment you booked is also on airb&b so maybe the reason for the booking interrogation??

 

[peregrina2000]

I also stayed in Grimaldo. There’s a lovely casa rural there and he charges 20 if you’re willing to share and 30 if you want a single. At least I think that’s the price. You can WhatsApp him. +34 616 93 17 45
His name is Cesar and he is doing all the work on the house himself. He’s a really nice guy. An architect who lost his job.

 

[peregrina2000]

I also agree with Laineylainey about the Embalse. There is absolutely nothing there. You can go sit on a log near the water and watch the Asian carp jump but that won’t keep you entertained all day!

 

[OzAnnie]

I also stayed in Grimaldo. There’s a lovely casa rural there and he charges 20 if you’re willing to share and 30 if you want a single. At least I think that’s the price. You can WhatsApp him. +34 616 93 17 45
His name is Cesar and he is doing all the work on the house himself. He’s a really nice guy. An architect who lost his job.

I’ll def follow this one up.
A bit of quiet time in between the camaraderie of the Albergues is a good mix for me.

The thoughtfulness of other pilgrims in Albergues on this route is very good. I guess Vdlp has a lot more experienced walkers and you don’t get the crazy bag rustlers (so much).
Also noticeable walking this route is that there is very little litter. Leaving Santiponce., in the ditches was soooo much but I feel that was from car traffic ., bottles & cans etc.

The apartment here at Casar de Cáceres is lovely. Worth it (for me) to just ‘be’ and relax. I’ll potter out soon to eat. I thought I’d have an evening meal this time because of the walk ahead tomorrow.

I also agree with Laineylainey about the Embalse. There is absolutely nothing there. You can go sit on a log near the water and watch the Asian carp jump but that won’t keep you entertained all day!

I’m so glad you both gave me the ‘heads up’ with that. Thanks too for reminding me too go check out the jumping carp

I took some time in Cáseres today ... late breakfast .. nice place before climbing !!!
At the centre ., I had tapas and cerveza at El Mariscal in the main square. They let me charge my iPhone too. I was waiting for 12.30 to 1pm for the huge thing on. The arrival of Nuestra Señora Easter procession.. it arrived at 1.30 so I was just leaving the square . I’ll add a pic of the crowd and you can see the arrival just entering.

Storks , storks and more storks here. Great

Also Laurie ., the traffic on that slim shoulder on the road head out was whoosh whoosh whoosh. Busy as anything I guess because this was Easter Sunday and everyone was coming to town.

Annie

 

[OzAnnie]

I also stayed in Grimaldo. There’s a lovely casa rural there and he charges 20 if you’re willing to share and 30 if you want a single. At least I think that’s the price. You can WhatsApp him. +34 616 93 17 45
His name is Cesar and he is doing all the work on the house himself. He’s a really nice guy. An architect who lost his job.

Just contacted Cesar. ( I also saw that booking com was sold out on that day)
He tells me he is full but that he has an unfinished apartment on upper level. Could be no doors completed or something? It has 3 beds I think he said. He also mentioned a Dutch mans name who has booked for that apartment / not sure how close it all is. He mentioned the pilgrims name and I have stayed at same place twice as this pilgrim. So I know he’s a real person. (A smoker though ). But I’m sure it will be fine
So Tuesday 23/4/19 now sorted.
The price for this shared room is E20 and includes breakfast and it’s possible to use the washing machine.

Thankyou
Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

Just contacted Cesar. ( I also saw that booking com was sold out on that day)
He tells me he is full but that he has an unfinished apartment on upper level. Could be no doors completed or something? It has 3 beds I think he said. He also mentioned a Dutch mans name who has booked for that apartment / not sure how close it all is. He mentioned the pilgrims name and I have stayed at same place twice as this pilgrim. So I know he’s a real person. (A smoker though ). But I’m sure it will be fine
So Tuesday 23/4/19 now sorted.
The price for this shared room is E20 and includes breakfast and it’s possible to use the washing machine.

Thankyou
Annie

Hi, Annie,
I got a tour of the ongoing additions last year and since he is doing it all himself, I imagine it is taking a while. See if he remembers me, we had a nice chat and I got to meet his mother! Glad you are all sorted out for tomorrow. Abrazos, Laurie

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi, Annie,
Glad you are all sorted out for tomorrow. Abrazos, Laurie

Yes ., tomorrow Monday. - embalse
Tuesday. Grimaldi. Cesar’s place.

Well, here I am around the corner from my apartment.. it would be great for a couple. It’s really close to the Queso Museo but all that is also closed today.
Great kitchen with everything, fridge, microwave (plus normal stove ). AND washing machine.
It will all be untouched by me. Shops are all closed here (Easter sunday). So I can’t even buy supplies to make a relaxing breakfast..
I might walk back down centre and see if they are giving me the correct info.

I’ve found this restaurant that will give me a pilgrim menú. There was another lady here when I arrived- obviously a pilgrim / she had her scratch notes and was ‘planning I guess ‘.
She appeared to be in a real dither so I asked her if she needed any help. She was a little agro and wanted to be left alone. So I did just that.
She left 10 minutes later ???
She has just returned with a smile on her face and wished me Bon appetit.. so I guess she’s had success.
I’ll leave her be as she’s found 2 others she knows.

It would be funny if she ends up in same places tomorrow and next day.

Annie

 

[ranthr]

I also agree with Laineylainey about the Embalse. There is absolutely nothing there. You can go sit on a log near the water and watch the Asian carp jump but that won’t keep you entertained all day!

Lots of mosquitos during night too! Since we have a lot of the kind here during summer, I heard the sound of them, put my bedbugsheet over my head and was not bitten. Some people thought the bits were from bedbugs but the zzzzzzzzzzzzz was mosquitos.

 

[OzAnnie]

Lots of mosquitos during night too! Since we have a lot of the kind here during summer, I heard the sound of them, put my bedbugsheet over my head and was not bitten. Some people thought the bits were from bedbugs but the zzzzzzzzzzzzz was mosquitos.

Thanks for that reminder about the mozzies.
Maybe it’s early in the season hopefully.

 

[OzAnnie]

Embalse de Alcántara was great. 6 beds to each room. Food/ meals available. Beers wines etc. all good.

Forecast rain today Tuesday. Leaving now 7.35 sky clear for the moment.
Heading to Grimaldo today
Annie

 

[OzAnnie]

I had clear walking until Cañaveral.. then the rain started. Poncho time. The trail was a mountain goat track and as someone mentioned somewhere .. it is definitely not the Via de la ‘flatta’. Rain and a crazy way .... rain was not heavy so not too bad.
I reached Posada Grimaldo to be met by Cesar.
He gave so much info regarding the days walking ahead. He even called Hostal Asturias for me and made my booking for me.
Thankyou @peregrina2000 Laurie for your recommendation.. he remembered you !!
Quoted your family history too !! So you made a strong impact.
Tomorrow rain for sure ... I’m sharing with 2 Dutchmen. They will leave early for Carcaboso whilst I am doing just shy of 20ks I think to Galisteo; but in rain that will be enough.

My head is in a great space- I feel so good. My feet so far - feeling it, but luckily no blisters. Hoping my luck will continue.
This is such a pretty way. So many flowers .
Getting cold here and I see Baños de Montemayor is having really low temps, also Granada on tv is having snow !! I think in a few days this cold time will pass and we’ll have the real ‘el verano’

Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

I had clear walking until Cañaveral.. then the rain started. Poncho time. The trail was a mountain goat track and as someone mentioned somewhere .. it is definitely not the Via de la ‘flatta’. Rain and a crazy way .... rain was not heavy so not too bad.
I reached Posada Grimaldo to be met by Cesar.
He gave so much info regarding the days walking ahead. He even called Hostal Asturias for me and made my booking for me.
Thankyou @peregrina2000 Laurie for your recommendation.. he remembered you !!
Quoted your family history too !! So you made a strong impact.
Tomorrow rain for sure ... I’m sharing with 2 Dutchmen. They will leave early for Carcaboso whilst I am doing just shy of 20ks I think to Galisteo; but in rain that will be enough.

My head is in a great space- I feel so good. My feet so far - feeling it, but luckily no blisters. Hoping my luck will continue.
This is such a pretty way. So many flowers .
Getting cold here and I see Baños de Montemayor is having really low temps, also Granada on tv is having snow !! I think in a few days this cold time will pass and we’ll have the real ‘el verano’

Annie

Annie, just got your picture with Cesar on WhatsApp.

 

[OzAnnie]

Annie, just got your picture with Cesar on WhatsApp.

I didn’t see it - I just took the hat off so can imagine how it looked.

Yesterday in Grimaldo I ate menú del día in the restaurant across the road from the bar..
yummy food. I hadn’t tried pimientos de bacalao before.!!!! They were outstanding.
Later that evening a few of us returned for a drink and ended up having a primero again. I had the pimientos again. Just as good second time.

Got away 7.45am this morning in rain. It rained until 2k out of Galisteo. Eased off for a while but rained again here.

A the accommodation I’m in : La Pensión Del Parador - (which is lovely ). I booked the room to myself through booking..but they advertise along the way / cama per perigrino for E15. If you are lucky there may not be a second person arrive and you’d have the room to yourself .. bathrooms are shared but 2 of them and only a few rooms in the place. Has kitchen and rate includes breakfast left out to self serve in the morning.

And guess who is here - recovering from leg problems —— Patty and Frank. @P Rat on the forum.
Lovely couple. We lunched together at the local restaurant ‘Los Emigrantes ‘. Very yummy menú del día here. E10 for wine, water, coffee, bread and 3 courses !!

A pity that Patty and Frank’s plans don’t match mine -as he is still in recovery etc. their company is really enjoyable - they showed me inside the wall and we walked around part of it. Very cold still and rain is off and on.
Predicted for tomorrow too so my intention is to only walk to Carcaboso .
X

 

[OzAnnie]

A little more on yesterday’s walk to Galisteo... rainy and wind (luckily tailwind - so rain wasn’t in my face. My feet and shoes were soaked with 200 metres of leaving Grimaldo. No way to find dry places and plenty of slip sliding in mud. The rain was making tracks little rivulets and walking on the lush grass was mostly wet with water of the grass itself soaked the uppers. (Boots May have been the go there but still happier I wore my Brooks Ghosts 11 trail runners.).
Later around 2k from Galisteo when rain stopped I took off my poncho and had a snack /mochilla parked safely on small haystack.
I’m glad I did that as the last hill was very steep and muddy muddy muddy. Some places I tried to run so as not the slide back. Lol. I washed them at my accommodation as they couldn’t get any wetter!! My room had aircon so managed to get them dry overnight.

On arriving town Galisteo ... the restaurant Los Emigrantes is there. From there it’s uphill to my accommodation.. mostly everything is outside the wall. The lunch later was run downhill in the rain back to the earlier restaurant.
Frank and patty had been in town 3 days and found this best value. Food as I said before was great. My primero ( Mushrooms) would have been a main course at home. - really delicious.

Today left Galisteo at 7.55 and it was all road walking to Carcoboso.. (road walking. No shoulder ).
A few fast drivers so continually moved to the safest option approaching crest of hill etc.
nothing open in the little pueblo Aldehuela de Jerte..
Arriving Carcoboso 10.15 it started sprinkling as I reached door of Snr Elena (Albergue touristico)
But guy in tienda next door said she was still asleep. He took my backpack off and directed me 50m further up to café .. I’m there now enjoyed a café con leche grand..

I’m so surprised that I’ve maintained great spirits walking alone. Previous walks I’ve had times where I’ve dipped down here and there with questions of :Why an I doing this? But not this time. Just loving it.

Buen Camino
Annie

 

[amancio]

Aaaagh. I kept moving today as I needed to get a cama at the Albergue in Valdesalor..(14 places) Rain for the first 40 minutes and then it cleared. I arrived at 2.15 and all the bottom bunks were taken. An Italian gentleman gave me his bottom bunk. !
Had menú Del día at Rincón de Julia.
Returned to clean up and use the washing machine. The Spanish lady who was here checking that everyone had paid / got the machine running Choosing a long cycle. It’s 6pm and I’m waiting for it to finish. Patience, patience...

Tomorrow it seems nothing private available at Casar de Cáceres and so will have to hoof it tomorrow to grab a bed at the Albergue there. Nothing available in Cáseres- we’ve all checked and the money lady confirmed- Nada.

You can ring the embalse albergue and reserve a bed ., so I’ve done that for Monday 22nd

Hoping the Easter tourists will have left by then.

Annie

Easter saturday is impossible to find any accommodation Cáceres! 5 years ago, I left Alcuéscar meaning to stay in Valdesálor, not the highest spirited place on Earth to say the least, so I continued onto Cáceres, making a 27 km a 40 km stage... to find it was Easter Saturday, not one single, bed, so I made it all the way to Casar de Cáceres, all in all, just over 50 km, longest I had ever walked. Yet, I was euphoric and feeling strong as I arrived in Casar, it was a unique feeling!

This said, I am starting in Guillena tomorrow, hopefully all the way to Zamora

 

[laineylainey]

Annie, it's great to hear your walking experience and given the weather, the fact that you are enjoying walking solo is fantastic! Must admit I love walking alone but like company as well. When I walk alone I see and hear so much more of my surroundings and nature even if that is mud and rain. I have in the past got so wet that I have laughed out loud because instead of moaning to a companion, I just had to put up with it and that's why I would get the giggles. The other thing I love about walking alone is being able to sing, which with a companion could be a strain on a budding friendship!!
God bless
Elaine

 

[OzAnnie]

Exactly Elaine. Being able to sing with a rough voice is a positive about being alone ; as is talking to the animals.
At Albergue turustico Snr Elena at Carcaboso..
The meeting of new pilgrims and decisions to eat together is a fun part too. Four of us from here had the menú del día.. rain off and on but saw some sun with strong wind. Quite fresh !!!!

 

[laineylainey]

Perfect for me, a walk partially (or fully) alone but company over el menu del día is the the treat of the day!
Might be getting a bit warmer perhaps over the next few days?

 

[OzAnnie]

Perfect for me, a walk partially (or fully) alone but company over el menu del día is the the treat of the day!
Might be getting a bit warmer perhaps over the next few days?

Re the temps. You can always hope @laineylainey ..
we are feeling the cold now, which is everywhere at present but I think in a few days it may change to warm and we’ll be wishing for the cold. Lol.
Annie

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Annie, I’ve just caught up with your adventures. I’m also following Gillian a week behind you. She has had some warm days so fingers crossed. Keep up the wonderful posts. xG

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi
Days are blurring again. Constant change of people in my day - Super groups all of them.
Carcaboso stayed in an Albergue Elena on Main Street. Almost everyone turned up there. I think there were only a couple in the Albergue.
A very latecomer from USA Florida had arrived at around 9pm and managed to find a bed there. He was beat as he’d walked over 40klms. . Place was ok. I shared a room with a Belgium Peregrina.. guy next door in the tienda looks after the entries etc. this lot were great fun.
Most of them I saw for following 2 nights at Hostal Asturias (Cáparra) and also hung out with them a Baños de Montemayor.

Re Hostal Asturias.. good value if you ring or someone does it for you. E19 includes the pick up from the arc de Cáparra. The other Peregrinos I was with walked across country .. I took the pick up option .. there were a whole van full also which turned up around 5 ish with the pick up option. My companions were the walk every step ones.
Next morning breakfast was additional but probably only E2
The rooms for E19 are great value. Tiny but all you’d need. Tv , air con, own bathroom , hanging space etc and single bed. Private !
I noticed on the wall that the advertised Tarif if much more.
Meals in comedor were very nice.
Later that evening we were outside (I guess partying? Might be the word ..) many wine bottles anyway. And from up the carretera at around 7.30 comes Ryan .. the young chap from Florida.
He’d left later than the rest in the morning. He had taken a wrong turn and gone to Los Olivas to find nothing there .. he could get a drink and bocodillo but no bed. His phone charger had burnt out previous night in Carcoboso and his phone was flat hence he couldn’t use it for maps/directions etc. so with no guide etc.,
He decided to walk towards Salamanca as per road sign. Eventually came upon us at Hostal Asturias and was pleased as punch. No beds here either so he was prepared to walk an extra 10ks.
A Brit good guy offered to let him have the floor of his tiny single room, and we all took our extra blankets from separate rooms to provide a semblance of a ‘mattress’. He slept ok.
They/we all arrived safe at Baños de Montemayor next day.
I had booked as everything listed was completo.
The rest of the Peregrinos tried to find a bed - all full, Albergue full etc. asked locals and were advised to try ‘Hostal Martin ‘. Central , just behind the little park .. they negotiated the perfect price for their crew (about 5 in all) and they were very happy. It’s not listed on gronze but they tell me it was a real find.
We all congregated in the little park last night and partied again until they went off to eat late. I’d had enough food , so headed back to my overpriced Hotel Alegría.. it was ok not complaining. (Just comparatively).

Today I opted for short day again. I’m staying at casa Jorge in Calzada de Béjar / a quiet forgotten little place but great for rest up.
It’s a beautiful little private accommodation looked after by Estelle. She offers a Demi Pensión too so I took that and explained that I prefer my meal around 3ish .. she was happy with that and there were 3 others from the albergue here that joined me for the meal as she was doing paella..

There are quite a lot of Peregrinos at the albergue including 2 Italian ladies and a Frenchmen from the meal together, 3 Slovenians.
Met a few at the ‘bar’ in the plaza this evening.. no wine bottles around.

So the previous fun crowd are now tonight in Fuenterroble so move a day ahead. New faces are no problem. Not boring that’s for sure.

Also there was a nice French gentleman walking in his mid 70’s with a cart to carry his gear.
I was messaged earlier by the Belgian Peregrina (a nurse) from Fuenterroble that he had fallen whilst earlier walking through the woods outside Baños de Montemayor and he was taken to Fuenterroble and is with them there now. I hope he is ok. I’ll post a pic of him during yesterday’s walk on the way to Baños.
Annie

 

[C clearly]

Not boring that’s for sure.

It's so good to hear about your camino - progressing with ups and downs, generally unpredictable but with good outcomes! I hope your feet and overall health stay well.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Blue sky looks good in the photo. Seems like it’s getting warmer for you.
Enjoy the Albergue in Fuenterroble. A favourite of mine. XG

 

[VNwalking]

Wow, Annie, it sounds like you're getting a nice mix of company and solitude. And towns that are completo? It's not only the Frances that's getting more action....
Buen camino, peregrina!

 

[ranthr]

Enjoy reading about your walk, OzAnnie!
Albergues were very completo when I walked in 2011 too, so that’s why I chose to continue to Astorga and walk the Frances in the end.
But I got a bit of the rest after the Invierno last year.
Wish you a sunny end of your camino, remembering your rainy days on Camino de Invierno last year!

 

[laineylainey]

Love your story and your journey. Looks like the sun was out to play as well?

 

[Mark Baron]

I’ve just walked into Almadén de la Plata around midday today - it’s day 3 for me and feel it’s time I added a little to this Vdlp section.

Arrived Friday afternoon in Sevilla airport. The bus to town E4 is to the left exiting the airport. Many stops - I got out at final stop ‘Plaza de Armas’ bus station. I had only a few minutes walk to my Bnb (recommended earlier on forum by @gracethepilgrim ) . 2 nights there. Excellent and spacious. It’s on air Bnb but I contacted Angel the host directly. He is super host.
Although I’ve been the Sevilla before .. so much more to see this time.
Obtained the stamp on my credencial at the catedral and bought some gifts for grandchildren at the catedral shop. (More weight already !!)

Day 1 Sunday 7th. Caught bus to Itálica from ‘Plaza de Armas’ at 8.30am (Italica opens at 9am),
Fare is E1.60. Being Sunday it seems free entry ..
Put Mochilla into locker and walked around the ruins etc. really worthwhile .
Started walk to Guillena around 11am from there. This is such an easy walk (if fit) but I must admit I was so glad I’d bussed out through the suburban Sevilla first to santiponce (& Itálica)., as after recent health problems interfered with my training ., I was completely ‘had it’ on reaching my accommodation that day ‘Bar Francés ‘. Partially because being cooler I hadn’t been hydrating enough .. lesson learnt .
The walk itself was a nice gently undulating straight dirt path almost whole way. Weather was great for walking .. starting that time I only saw one group of walkers (4 Spanish gents ). We came to the beam across the stream together. I was glad to get that out of the way. Not as scary as I’d imagined. Getting older , I’m a little more wary about balance, but I did just fine.
Day 2 Guillena to castilblanco de Los arroyos .
No rain to start but had been raining previous days and lively new Brooks Ghost 11 trail runners were initiated with mud. Mud caking so much I became quite tall ! (that’s stretching it!), I’m a shorty. Pointlessly I kept trying to clear the build up and moved off path and back etc but to no avail. Frustrating.. but I’ve been fortunate on all other caminos. I’ve never experienced this mud., so it was my turn. Then the rain .. not heavy but enough so that you didn’t want to take a break . I arrived around 2pm and was heading to find a menu Del día but a call from behind me - someone kindly letting me know I was passing the albergue. I explained I had a booking at Hospedería de la Plata. Well too long a story explaining that one but an half hour later I once again headed for menu del día at Café Mansilla which is part of same building I think as Casa Macarena. They were very helpful in finding out whether the Hospedería was open or closed. I had overlooked in my information that one can only check in after 3pm. Hence it appeared abandoned.
Once I did get to meet the host Gustavo., the rest of that day and night has more than enough material for an episode of ‘faulty towers ‘. He disappeared after that. . I honestly had wished I’d gone to the Albergue where I could have at least found someone to ask questions of why doesn’t the hot water come through and why does the power go off. I believe the power thing does happen in spain according to Gustavo. It was fixed by 6.30 pm to his credit.

Day 3. Gustavo arranged taxi from café mansilla at 8am. (Not my choice ) I assumed I had to go with it. I walked down the hill to café mansilla at 7am to have breakfast there. (They are open from very early). I assumed there would be others but I was the only passenger. E25 fare to drop off at entrance to park.
I had no problems paying it but gathered it would be shared. A minute after drop off, another taxi drops off one passenger . Her fare was e20 from same start point. I heard from a couple who walked the whole way that there were taxis going to and fro constantly ..ha ha. So taxi business is doing well.
We passed about 12 or so Peregrinos walking this section. So I saw a lot more pilgrims today.
Great walking day. It was also lovely to have company of Bárbara (a German lady ) - the one who got out of the 2nd taxi.
I’m staying at Casa de Jenaro E30. Very clean -double bed. Large room /bathroom is separate and shared but other rooms are not occupied so I have the bathroom to myself! Loads of hot water.!

Tomorrow I’ll only walk the ist part of stage in gronze. So just to El Real de la Jara.
Annie

Thanks for taking the time blog/write, I walked the Vdlp last Spring, and love to relive/walk with you through your posts, I'll looking forward to your adventure.

 

[OzAnnie]

May 3. 2019. I’m in Calzada de Valdunciel..

Backtracking a bit.
After Calzada de Béjar (28/4) my next day was to Fuenterroble.. a great experience staying at the parochial. I doubt many Peregrinos stay elsewhere.
The day prior there had been a group of 24 Norwegians mostly staying at a casa Rural., but they were 4 beds short. Those 4 stayed at the parochial. When they (the 4) reported the experience they had with the communal eating .,blessing at church ; the Albergue itself with the mixture of dormitories and interesting stuff in every nook and cranny ; the full group stayed an extra night in Fuenterroble so that the whole group could experience the shared meal at the Albergue (they still slept /most of them.. at the casa Rural ). But they swelled the numbers at the blessing in the church at 7pm by Father Blas.
Their group had a great voice and sung a number of songs in their language and Father Blas got everyone joining in by leading with his wonderful voice . Later we all became one up front and he gave us the blessing. Splashed all of us ..
Not to be missed. The volunteers come when needed and there were quite a few. One guy from
Cadiz. I think the numbers may have been overwhelming as the pillows cases etc may have seen a few customers. A few Americans were busily spraying for bugs but everything was clear in that regard.

A couple of bars to have the beer or wine plus a shop that opened around 5.30pm that has everything including water and fruit.

Next day 30/4/19 walk to San Pedro de Rozados.
I had called to secure a bed. Just reserved by phone was ok with a name.
I had thought to possibly walk the direct route to Morille and call to cancel my cama reservation but overlooked reading my app and the split for Morille I missed. It is made at the cattle grid of all places. When I reached there ...it was well and truly signed with yellow arrows to go left and not cross. If I’d come closer I may have seen a mention of Morille.
So moving left up to the wind turbines and the Pico de la Duena. Not a smooth path .. quite steepish and loose rocks. I realised I was on the way to San Pedro de Rozados. Lucky I still had a bed reserved.
Arriving there most walkers had called ahead.. so all Camas had a ‘reserved’ note on each single bed. (This is the Albergue Mutatio Elena ) in the centre for E12 per person in group rooms. Includes desayuno.. 4 rooms. (One with 3 beds) (one with 4) and (one with 6 I think ). 1 single room .
All proper single beds not bunks. Evening meal at the hotel. (Also where the Norwegian group were staying ). We had to give lady at hotel the numbers for dinner ; and food was delicious.
There is an albergue in town too. One other pilgrim told me it was ok but simple., however an hour later he came to the Mutatio albergue asking for a cama. He reported that there was no electricity at his Albergue. However Mutatio was completo. Hospitalero told him that a Frenchman staying in a single room with C Pap machine was okay to
Let him stay on small bunk in his room or he could also wait to see if there was a ‘no show’ in a reserved cama. He was too anxious about sleep so he arranged a taxi to Salamanca..
there was 1 no show after all !!!

1st may. Mayday. Walking to Salamanca. What a great place. Glad I had decided to stay 2 nights. My first blister walking that day tho . By this time my corns has also made themselves known ... it seemed long and hot but finally arrived on foot to my hotel. (Booked way in advance due to advice being mayday arrival ).
Great position hotel. Soho Mercado about 100 steps from plaza mayor. 2 nights E81 I know too much for some but the municipal Albergue had problems. No water. It may be fixed now ??
Around the corner from my hotel (1 minute away) clinica de pie. No bookings needed. Of course closed on Mayday but I queued in my day 2 and it didn’t take too long. E35 to treat my 2 feet (corns ).and my blister. Plus trim my nails. Happy with that. Took it easy with feet and went for a choo choo train touristic E3 for over 65 yrs
Had time to get my hair done too.
So all cheered up yesterday ready for fresh start
To test feet I opted for the short day 16ks. ?? To Calzada de Valdunciel.. It was enough.
Recommendation was for albergue turistic Molinera but arriving at 11.40am it was completo with a group of 8 Finnish (with transported mochillas; ) and also a family of 4. Hospitalero (Oscar) told me he also managed a casa Rural close by. A bed in shared room for two is E16. When I left earlier no one else there. So may end up a private room. Very nice . Tastefully decorates place (with a crazy shower ). But nice hot water once you conquer it
A couple of Germans I met along the way today are at the municipal Albergue and report nothing out of order and good value. Except bunks are close and bump heads a bit.
They entertained me as they had very little English and nil Spanish and we had great fun with google translate. The German woman only just installing the app today so many laughs.
The restaurant closer to the highway starts dinner at 8.30- 9pm. I prefer not to start that late so eating tapas etc at one of the 2 small bars near the church.
Nothing will be available for breakfast so will make sure to get something from the tienda tonight . The bar owner will make bocadillos if requested to take tomorrow for stage to El Cubo

Annie
Edit: when I arrived back to my accommodation still the only person for the room but in another room ; 3 cyclists who had arranged for E3 breakfast things to be left out. I have already bought enough including yoghurt etc but it will teach me to ask about the possibilities in a tiny place where nothing opens early.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Wonderful stories Annie. Thanks for taking the time with so much detail for those following you. xG

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi
My partial Vdlp is nearing it’s days available to walk. 3 more days before I need to get back to Madrid for final 2 nights before flight back to Oz on 12th
I need to think now of where I should stop and not leave myself somewhere without bus service in order to get back to Zamora to get a bus or train to Madrid on 10th. Any suggestions would be great.

Sat 4th walked the dull stretch to El Cubo - stayed at the F y M Albergue. Most Others seemed to do the same. There is another Albergue coming into town. There are a couple of bars , a tienda for supplies. The albergue will prepare a breakfast for E3 .. they were excellent catering for people’s different departure time preferences. Nice couple that run it. Fernando y Mercedes. Nice clean comforters on bed. Clean. Ladies bathroom is big. The place isn’t impressive from the outside but you should be comfortable there.
Sun 5th. To Zamora. Stayed at main albergue.
Very clean and Organized - run by HosVol volunteers.. very helpful ladies too -
They prepare a good breakfast 6.30-7.30. Everyone out by 8am. It’s donativo also. Interesting that there was no impression given of when to give the donation. Very kind ladies.

Downside was entry time of 3pm. So not a great lot of time to explore this beautiful town if you need to have a siesta after your shower and laundry.
Managed to get around a little.
Storks here too.

Monday 6th. Today.
Stage to Montamarta. Little pueblo . The municipal is open and some went there. A couple of us went to the (dorm/section) of casa Rural el tío Bartolo. E15 including breakfast that you put together at time suitable for yourself. Makings in kitchen. The owner also runs the supermercado so you might have to chase her up there for the sello and to pay etc . Pic below of the dorm but they also have private rooms which were all taken

Great outdoor sunny relaxing area .. great .. also for washing and drying area.

So tomorrow to Granja de Moreruela.
Not sure what weather I’ve got coming this week so decision on stage etc for 8th and 9th.

Annie

 

[OzAnnie]

Just speaking to a Dutch pilgrim in Riego Del Camino (Bar Pepe ) (ps lady is friendly but fiery and makes pretty so so café con leche.)
His book indicate Tabara may be best place to turn around ? As buses to Zamora from there ?

I’ll ask more when I reach Granga. If that’s the case about Tabara I might turn that stage in 2 shorter ones. Maybe it’s a possibility to stop at Faramontanas before Tabara tomorrow on 8th and walk to Tabara on the 9th. I haven’t accessed any bus etc timetables to return to Zamora thence Madrid so I’ll have more time to do that.

Annie

 

[Via2010]

Yes, there is a regular bus-Service between Tabara and Zamora. Look here:
Autocares Vivas Linea Zamora-Ribadelago

There are more lines touching Tabara and villages on the camino sanabrés operated by autocares vivas.