Vegacervera to Pola de Gordon —the longest 24 km EVER.
We left at 7:15, never thinking it would be nearly 2 pm when we checked into Pension 15 de Mayo.
You should read @alansykes’ account of doing the first half of this stage in the pouring rain. I simply cannot imagine it. The descent in the first half into the gorge is like nothing I have ever done, and it makes the descent from San Juan de la Peña to Santa Cruz de la Seros (on the Aragonés/Catalán) look like a walk in the park.
The first six or seven kms are on a totally untraveled road. When the turn off comes, you start down. First going through lots of very long grass, which makes your feet, socks, shoes, and pants very wet. But then comes the fun. It is a rocky descent like nothing I have ever seen. I gave Alun one of my poles, and together the two of us went step by step, frequently sitting down, frequently looking nervously to the right to see if we are going to plunge down to the river below. It was really pretty scary. Now, the truth is, it takes you to a beautiful place – a gorge with a small river running through it. And then the beautiful beech forest. But I think that if I were sensible, I would not walk it again.
The stop in Ciñera was very nice. The town was clearly a mining town, and now not much is going on. The monument to miners in the square has a clear and loud complaint attached.
We went into the bar where Alan had gotten a ride months earlier (owner and Ender remembered him well), and we sat outside to wring out our socks and try to dry out our shoes. I foolishly thought that the rest of the day would be a piece of cake.
It turns out that there is another ascent, nothing too strenuous, but then the descent to Buiza is through a scrub forest/meadow with no obvious marking.
Because my GPS tracks have a maximum of 500 points, the track is hard to follow at the micro level. We wound up weaving around, up-and-down, back-and-forth, until we finally made our way to Buiza. Very wet, very slow going.
We then took five more kilometers along the side of the road, very lightly traveled, and made our way into Pola De Gordon. We have had a good menu Del dia in meson de Miguel and each have a 20€ single room with private bath in 15 de Mayo. All is well, but I think future peregrinos should think twice about this stage. Here’s a YouTube. I think there was little time for photography while navigating those rocks but there is a shot or two.