Albergues from Lisboa to Porto

[LSab]

I am beginning to plan my second Camino this spring (March/April), from Lisbon to Santiago along the inland route of the Camino Portuguese. I am using both the Wise Pilgrim App and Gronze (I used both when I walked from SJPdP last fall). Am I correct in thinking, as I look in both apps, that this part of the Camino (from Lisbon to Porto) has fewer albergues? I do not see many albergues off stage and even on the stage itself, many towns have only one albergue (there are many hotels/guesthouses)? I do not see any municiple albergues at all. Also, some of the stages are a bit longer than I would like to do. When walking the Frances, I pushed a bit too hard and ended with two minor but painful injures. I have learned my lesson so I would rather shorten a long stage but this may not be an option if there are no albergues. Can anyone advise me on albergues or perhaps there is a better app for the Camino Portuguese? Also.... why do both of these apps begin the Camino at the Lisbon cathedral when the official start is at the Igreja de Santiago? Thanks to all who help me plan!

 

[alexwalker]

I tried to walk from Lisbon ca. 10 years back, but gave up after 5 days in April. The amount of (dangerous) highway walking (and not least seeing truck drivers sitting in petrol stations having their beer(s) break), lack of albergues and other facilities, lack of fellow pilgrims (I met noone in those 5 days) etc. was giving me a feeling of not fitting into that Camino, so I skipped forward to Porto and walked from there. A much better experience, although I hated walking on all those cobblestones/stone setts: Hard on my feet.

IMHO, the Portuguese from Lisbon to Porto is/was not well developed for pilgrims. It may have improved lately, for all I know, though.

Buen Camino!

 

[Melcro1218]

I tried to walk from Lisbon ca. 10 years back, but gave up after 5 days in April. The amount of (dangerous) highway walking (and not least seeing truck drivers sitting in petrol stations having their beer(s) break), lack of albergues and other facilities, lack of fellow pilgrims (I met noone in those 5 days) etc. was giving me a feeling of not fitting into that Camino, so I skipped forward to Porto and walked from there. A much better experience, although I hated walking on all those cobblestones/stone setts: Hard on my feet.

IMHO, the Portuguese from Lisbon to Porto is/was not well developed for pilgrims. It may have improved lately, for all I know, though.

Buen Camino!

Thank you for sharing this. We might consider Vigo to Santiago instead of starting in Lisbon

 

[peregrina2000]

Can anyone advise me on albergues

Take a look at post 16 on this thread. It is a list of towns with indications of albergue, hotel, etc.

I was in Lisbon this fall for work and was able to walk from Lisbon to Tomar on days off.

Day 1 - Lisbon to Vila Franca de Xira
Day 2 - Vila Franca to Valada
Day 3 - Valada to Santarém
Day 4 - Santarém to Golegã
Day 5 - Golegã to Tomar

I know there are many who don’t like Lisbon to Porto, but I have walked from Lisbon to Santiago (2008?) and was happy to be able to go back to the early stages this year. I think in part it depends on what you are looking for.

The Caminho out of Lisbon has been totally re-routed and is now on a riverside boardwalk for nearly all of the 35 kms between Lisbon and Vila Franca, at least once you get through Lisbon (which is, imho, a very nice walk through the old parts of town, and then along the river). I believe that is the stretch @alexwalker is describing, though there is one more short road stretch going into, I think, Azambuja. But there have been a lot of changes, and an increase in pilgrims, in the last 10 years.

It is true that the countryside from Lisbon to Porto is not “spectacular” in the common sense of the word, but I enjoyed every step. People working in the fields who were happy to talk to me with my very bad Portuguese, good food, and a few pilgrims to talk to along the way. I even got to meet @Friend from Barquinha, who lives about 50 m from the Caminho.

The towns of Santarém, Golegã, and Tomar are all very nice places with interesting churches, praças, and in the case of Tomar, a spectacular monastery/castle. Coimbra, a few stages after Tomar, deserves a full rest day. It has the oldest university in Portugal, an ancient cathedral, lovely river walk, etc.

I walked in October and met at least two or three every day. I went out and back to Lisbon most days, though, so I didn’t stay in the towns at night. But unike when I walked in 2008, the caminho is well known locally, and there are always options for spending the night. This is a relatively untraveled route, so if you are expecting to have three or four albergues in a town, you are going to be disappointed. But I am pretty confident you can find places to stay that will not break the bank and that will not require you to walk 35 kms. The infrastructure is increasing as the numbers do, but Lisbon to Porto is not anywhere near as traveled as from Porto north. For me, that’s a benefit!

why do both of these apps begin the Camino at the Lisbon cathedral when the official start is at the Igreja de Santiago?

The Igreja de Santiago had nothing to do with promoting the resurgence of interest and marking of the Caminho from Lisbon. I have never been by when it’s open, and I don’t think they have credentials. The Cathedral has had credentials available for years now, and the arrows start at the Cathedral, so it just makes sense. The Igreja de Santiago is about a 3 minute walk from the Cathedral though, so you can easily start there.

 

[LSab]

Take a look at post 16 on this thread. It is a list of towns with indications of albergue, hotel, etc.

I was in Lisbon this fall for work and was able to walk from Lisbon to Tomar on days off.

Day 1 - Lisbon to Vila Franca de Xira
Day 2 - Vila Franca to Valada
Day 3 - Valada to Santarém
Day 4 - Santarém to Golegã
Day 5 - Golegã to Tomar

I know there are many who don’t like Lisbon to Porto, but I have walked from Lisbon to Santiago (2008?) and was happy to be able to go back to the early stages this year. I think in part it depends on what you are looking for.

The Caminho out of Lisbon has been totally re-routed and is now on a riverside boardwalk for nearly all of the 35 kms between Lisbon and Vila Franca, at least once you get through Lisbon (which is, imho, a very nice walk through the old parts of town, and then along the river). I believe that is the stretch @alexwalker is describing, though there is one more short road stretch going into, I think, Azambuja. But there have been a lot of changes, and an increase in pilgrims, in the last 10 years.

It is true that the countryside from Lisbon to Porto is not “spectacular” in the common sense of the word, but I enjoyed every step. People working in the fields who were happy to talk to me with my very bad Portuguese, good food, and a few pilgrims to talk to along the way. I even got to meet @Friend from Barquinha, who lives about 50 m from the Caminho.

The towns of Santarém, Golegã, and Tomar are all very nice places with interesting churches, praças, and in the case of Tomar, a spectacular monastery/castle. Coimbra, a few stages after Tomar, deserves a full rest day. It has the oldest university in Portugal, an ancient cathedral, lovely river walk, etc.

I walked in October and met at least two or three every day. I went out and back to Lisbon most days, though, so I didn’t stay in the towns at night. But unike when I walked in 2008, the caminho is well known locally, and there are always options for spending the night. This is a relatively untraveled route, so if you are expecting to have three or four albergues in a town, you are going to be disappointed. But I am pretty confident you can find places to stay that will not break the bank and that will not require you to walk 35 kms. The infrastructure is increasing as the numbers do, but Lisbon to Porto is not anywhere near as traveled as from Porto north. For me, that’s a benefit!


The Igreja de Santiago had nothing to do with promoting the resurgence of interest and marking of the Caminho from Lisbon. I have never been by when it’s open, and I don’t think they have credentials. The Cathedral has had credentials available for years now, and the arrows start at the Cathedral, so it just makes sense. The Igreja de Santiago is about a 3 minute walk from the Cathedral though, so you can easily start there.

Thank you so much for your detailed response! Your help is greatly appreciated and you have given me much to think about as I continue planning. Thanks for sharing your experiences!

 

[LSab]

I tried to walk from Lisbon ca. 10 years back, but gave up after 5 days in April. The amount of (dangerous) highway walking (and not least seeing truck drivers sitting in petrol stations having their beer(s) break), lack of albergues and other facilities, lack of fellow pilgrims (I met noone in those 5 days) etc. was giving me a feeling of not fitting into that Camino, so I skipped forward to Porto and walked from there. A much better experience, although I hated walking on all those cobblestones/stone setts: Hard on my feet.

IMHO, the Portuguese from Lisbon to Porto is/was not well developed for pilgrims. It may have improved lately, for all I know, though.

Buen Camino!

Thank you for this information!

 

[wisepilgrim]

The differences in the camino from Lisbon to Porto between 10 years ago, and now, cannot be overstated.
Between major route changes, and the arrival and disappearance of several albergues, the two share little in common.

The net change though has been for the better, and I find it a bit of a pity that so few of the Camino Portugués pilgrims walk it. I imagine that number to be around 5%, though more devoted number crunchers are welcome to challenge that claim.

I think this is in large part to the reputation it has, as well as the fact that pilgrims prefer a shorter trail.

For me beauty lies in those special transition points where after days or weeks of walking the landscape around you suddenly shifts: it flattens out, or it climbs, or it goes green, or the food changes, or all of the sudden I find myself alone on the trail or surrounded by pilgrims I have never met, or for any number of exclamation points. This is why, on the Camino Frances, I would never consider to skip the meseta. And this is why, on the Camino Portugués, I would always start in Lisbon... and would later spend at least a few days walking the coast.

Lastly I agree 100% with @peregrina2000 about the accommodation. To which I will only add that there are a number of owners that really take responsibility for what they do for us.

In the end it is a personal choice of course, but I do hope that more people get the chance to walk it as their voices are needed to tip the scales in favor of a route that deserves more attention.

 

[dougfitz]

I walked from Lisbon to Fatima and then Tomar to SDC in 2023, before the recent changes to the route leaving Lisbon. I found it more convenient to break up the longer stages by using public transport, and staying for an extra night in Lisbon and then Santarem. I did this by:

• walking from the Igreja de Santiago to the railway station at Povoa, catching the train back to Santa Apolonia then returning the next day.
• walking from Azambuja to Porto de Muje, catching the bus and train to Santarem, then returning to Muje the next day and walking back to Santarem from there. My original plan had been to walk from Porto de Muje to Muje, but the bus option presented itself, and I was happy to take that instead. NB Muje is not on the CP, but one of the other Fatima routes, and the section from there to Santarem was well way-marked and easy to follow.

I stayed in albergues on the stretch from Lisbon to Porto, but perhaps not as many as I was able to in Spain when I have walked there in the past. There were many more nights in hotels and B&Bs of various types. One would have some more flexibility here if walking longer distances were an option, but I have been trying to limit myself to about 20 km/day, and that made it a little more difficult.

 

[lt56ny]

Coimbra, a few stages after Tomar, deserves a full rest day. It has the oldest university in Portugal, an ancient cathedral, lovely river walk, etc.

If I could convince my wife to move to Portugal, I would go in a heartbeat. Coimbra would be the place I would want to live. In many ways it may be a perfect place to live that would fit both of our needs for happiness.

 

[Doingit]

Take a look at post 16 on this thread. It is a list of towns with indications of albergue, hotel, etc.

I was in Lisbon this fall for work and was able to walk from Lisbon to Tomar on days off.

Day 1 - Lisbon to Vila Franca de Xira
Day 2 - Vila Franca to Valada
Day 3 - Valada to Santarém
Day 4 - Santarém to Golegã
Day 5 - Golegã to Tomar

I know there are many who don’t like Lisbon to Porto, but I have walked from Lisbon to Santiago (2008?) and was happy to be able to go back to the early stages this year. I think in part it depends on what you are looking for.

The Caminho out of Lisbon has been totally re-routed and is now on a riverside boardwalk for nearly all of the 35 kms between Lisbon and Vila Franca, at least once you get through Lisbon (which is, imho, a very nice walk through the old parts of town, and then along the river). I believe that is the stretch @alexwalker is describing, though there is one more short road stretch going into, I think, Azambuja. But there have been a lot of changes, and an increase in pilgrims, in the last 10 years.

It is true that the countryside from Lisbon to Porto is not “spectacular” in the common sense of the word, but I enjoyed every step. People working in the fields who were happy to talk to me with my very bad Portuguese, good food, and a few pilgrims to talk to along the way. I even got to meet @Friend from Barquinha, who lives about 50 m from the Caminho.

The towns of Santarém, Golegã, and Tomar are all very nice places with interesting churches, praças, and in the case of Tomar, a spectacular monastery/castle. Coimbra, a few stages after Tomar, deserves a full rest day. It has the oldest university in Portugal, an ancient cathedral, lovely river walk, etc.

I walked in October and met at least two or three every day. I went out and back to Lisbon most days, though, so I didn’t stay in the towns at night. But unike when I walked in 2008, the caminho is well known locally, and there are always options for spending the night. This is a relatively untraveled route, so if you are expecting to have three or four albergues in a town, you are going to be disappointed. But I am pretty confident you can find places to stay that will not break the bank and that will not require you to walk 35 kms. The infrastructure is increasing as the numbers do, but Lisbon to Porto is not anywhere near as traveled as from Porto north. For me, that’s a benefit!


The Igreja de Santiago had nothing to do with promoting the resurgence of interest and marking of the Caminho from Lisbon. I have never been by when it’s open, and I don’t think they have credentials. The Cathedral has had credentials available for years now, and the arrows start at the Cathedral, so it just makes sense. The Igreja de Santiago is about a 3 minute walk from the Cathedral though, so you can easily start there.

 

[Doingit]

Thanks. I'm also planning my Portuguese Camino and your comments are so helpful.

 

[Hans-Georg Goebel]

I am beginning to plan my second Camino this spring (March/April), from Lisbon to Santiago along the inland route of the Camino Portuguese. I am using both the Wise Pilgrim App and Gronze (I used both when I walked from SJPdP last fall). Am I correct in thinking, as I look in both apps, that this part of the Camino (from Lisbon to Porto) has fewer albergues? I do not see many albergues off stage and even on the stage itself, many towns have only one albergue (there are many hotels/guesthouses)? I do not see any municiple albergues at all. Also, some of the stages are a bit longer than I would like to do. When walking the Frances, I pushed a bit too hard and ended with two minor but painful injures. I have learned my lesson so I would rather shorten a long stage but this may not be an option if there are no albergues. Can anyone advise me on albergues or perhaps there is a better app for the Camino Portuguese? Also.... why do both of these apps begin the Camino at the Lisbon cathedral when the official start is at the Igreja de Santiago? Thanks to all who help me plan!

first part of my camino 2018

Seite	Tag	Datum	Tages Km​	Km 2)	Km 4)​	Ziel	Albergue
3		16.04	0​	0​	387​	Lissabon - Lisboa
7			​	9.4​	378​	Parque das Nacoes, Moscavide
7	1	18.04	22​	12.1​	366​	Alpriate	x
9			​	8.9​	357​	Alverca do Ribatejo, (Verdelha da Baixo +1.3)
10			​	6.5​	350​	Alhandra
10	2	19.04	20​	3.9​	346​	Vila Franca de Xira
11	3	20.04	20​	19.9​	327​	Azambuja	x
16			​	13.4​	313​	Valada
17	4?	21.04	17​	3.6​	310​	Porto de Muge
18	5	22.04	16​	16.2​	293​	Santarem	x
22	6	23.04	27​	26.9	266​	Azinhaga
23			​	7.5​	259​	Golega	x
27			​	6.1​	253​	Sao Caetano
27			​	3​	250​	Vila Nova daBarquina
27	7	24.04	19​	2.5	247​	Atalaia
27			​	​	236​	Rotuna
28	8	25.04	22​	21.5​	226​	Tomar
31	9	26.04	25​	(25.1)​	201​	Relvas (etwas neben dem Weg)
31			​	26.4​	198​	Cortica
32			​	6.8​	192​	Alvaiazere	x
35	10	27.04	19​	10​	182​	Ansiao
36			​	9.6​	172​	Alvorge	X
36			​	8.3​	164​	Rabacal	x
38	11	28.04	22​	3.8​	160​	Zambujal

 

[Hans-Georg Goebel]

I am beginning to plan my second Camino this spring (March/April), from Lisbon to Santiago along the inland route of the Camino Portuguese. I am using both the Wise Pilgrim App and Gronze (I used both when I walked from SJPdP last fall). Am I correct in thinking, as I look in both apps, that this part of the Camino (from Lisbon to Porto) has fewer albergues? I do not see many albergues off stage and even on the stage itself, many towns have only one albergue (there are many hotels/guesthouses)? I do not see any municiple albergues at all. Also, some of the stages are a bit longer than I would like to do. When walking the Frances, I pushed a bit too hard and ended with two minor but painful injures. I have learned my lesson so I would rather shorten a long stage but this may not be an option if there are no albergues. Can anyone advise me on albergues or perhaps there is a better app for the Camino Portuguese? Also.... why do both of these apps begin the Camino at the Lisbon cathedral when the official start is at the Igreja de Santiago? Thanks to all who help me plan!

part 2 /2018

38			​	7.5​	153​	Conimbriga	x
38			​	(1)​	​	Condeixa-a- Nova (1km neben)
38	12	29.04	14​	6.3​	146​	Cernache	x
39			​	​	143​	Antanhol
40	13	30.04	14​	11.6​	135​	Coimbra	X
43			​	10​	125​	Fornos
43	14	01.05	23​	13.1​	112​	Mealhada	X
45			​	7.7​	104​	Anadia
45		02.05	25​	4.4	87​	Agueda	X
49			​	8.5​	79​	Ponte
49			​	8.5​	72​	Albergeria à Velha	X
52	16	03.05	21​	6.1​	66​	Albergaria a Nova
52			​	6.5​	​	Pinheiro da Bemposta
52			​	7.6​	51​	Olivera de Azemeis
54	17	04.05	24​	10​	41​	S.Joao de Madeira
56			​	7.5​	34​	Malaposta
56			​	5.5​	29​	Lourosa
56			​	​	​	Santa Maria da Feira (3Km vom Weg)
56	18	05.05	22​	7.5​	21​	Grijo	x
57	19	06.05	15​	15.3​	6​	Porto

 

[Elle Bieling]

Welcome to the forum @LSab and @Melcro1218! I am also a long-time Camino walker and lover of the entire Camino Portugués! I just re-walked the entire Lisbon to Porto section in April/May of this year and probalbly hooked up with at least 10 pilgrims, and many more that I saw. If fact there was even a bed crunch in Condeixa-a-Velha when I went through.

Without a doubt both the infrastructure and the numbers of pilgrims are increasing on this section and if you carry an open and flexible heart, you will be amazed at this historic route. There is so much to love about this route (although maybe not the cobblestones, that I call "hobblestones" )! The portuguese are the most friendly and helpful people and I enjoy their cuisine immensely. If you are going it alone, you will find all the help that you need.

I agree that walking out of Lisbon is pleasant through the old world expo site and along the waterfront and then the boardwalk. And indeed, the official start is at the Igreja de Santiago. You may find it more convenient to visit it on the previous day, combined with a visit to the Castelo de São Jorge (St. George's Castle) on the hill above the city. The views as you walk down the hill from the Castle to the Santiago Church and to the Cathedral are stupendious. It is unfortunate that the little church, where supposedly Christopher Columbus got married, is almost never open! Maybe that will change in the future.

As others have stated, the highlights are Tomar and Coimbra - both deserving of an extra day, in my opinion. But the Roman ruins of Conimbriga are impressive too! As are the cork forests, the old Roman roads, ......

I have extensively documented this route on my website if you wish to dive deeper. It starts here at this page. Best of all to you and happy planning! You will not regret doing this route!
~ Elle

 

[Elle Bieling]

Also please note, for those who are unaware, that the route on the first day no longer goes through Alpriate, as seen in the itinerary above so there is no albergue on day one. The stage is from Lisbon to Alverca do Ribatejo now, or Verdelha, distance of about 25.6 Km. You can always divide this stage. For more details you can study my day one.

 

[Elle Bieling]

The Igreja de Santiago had nothing to do with promoting the resurgence of interest and marking of the Caminho from Lisbon. I have never been by when it’s open, and I don’t think they have credentials. The Cathedral has had credentials available for years now, and the arrows start at the Cathedral, so it just makes sense. The Igreja de Santiago is about a 3 minute walk from the Cathedral though, so you can easily start there.

The arrows actually do start at the Igreja de Santiago, see my photo below. And why the sign on the church?? This sign has been here for years! Why don't they promote it? (The sign says, "Here begins the Way.)

 

[jungleboy]

The net change though has been for the better, and I find it a bit of a pity that so few of the Camino Portugués pilgrims walk it. I imagine that number to be around 5%, though more devoted number crunchers are welcome to challenge that claim.

Per pilgrim office statistics, in 2023, 46,280 started from Porto (central + coastal) and 3,060 from Lisbon, so 6.6%. Good guess!

 

[jungleboy]

I just re-walked the entire Lisbon to Porto section in April/May of this year and probably hooked up with at least 10 pilgrims, and many more that I saw.

Careful with your phrasing Elle!!!

 

[dougfitz]

Careful with your phrasing Elle!!!

I wondered if this might be an American English vs the ROTW issue, but found this age based explanation: https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=hookup

 

[Steve57]

I am beginning to plan my second Camino this spring (March/April), from Lisbon to Santiago along the inland route of the Camino Portuguese. I am using both the Wise Pilgrim App and Gronze (I used both when I walked from SJPdP last fall). Am I correct in thinking, as I look in both apps, that this part of the Camino (from Lisbon to Porto) has fewer albergues? I do not see many albergues off stage and even on the stage itself, many towns have only one albergue (there are many hotels/guesthouses)? I do not see any municiple albergues at all. Also, some of the stages are a bit longer than I would like to do. When walking the Frances, I pushed a bit too hard and ended with two minor but painful injures. I have learned my lesson so I would rather shorten a long stage but this may not be an option if there are no albergues. Can anyone advise me on albergues or perhaps there is a better app for the Camino Portuguese? Also.... why do both of these apps begin the Camino at the Lisbon cathedral when the official start is at the Igreja de Santiago? Thanks to all who help me plan!

I walked it last year in May, always found accommodation including a church and a fire station.
Most of the time was in Albergues, used the Wise Pilgrim guidebook . I possibly met about 12 other pilgrims enroute, some days I walked alone , other days with a fellow pilgrim.

Yes there are roads with traffic to walk on but also pleasant tracks through farmland and forests. Being my first Camino I took everything in and enjoyed the experience.

Highlights included Santarem, Tomar , Coimbra and of course Porto.

Bom Caminho.

I am beginning to plan my second Camino this spring (March/April), from Lisbon to Santiago along the inland route of the Camino Portuguese. I am using both the Wise Pilgrim App and Gronze (I used both when I walked from SJPdP last fall). Am I correct in thinking, as I look in both apps, that this part of the Camino (from Lisbon to Porto) has fewer albergues? I do not see many albergues off stage and even on the stage itself, many towns have only one albergue (there are many hotels/guesthouses)? I do not see any municiple albergues at all. Also, some of the stages are a bit longer than I would like to do. When walking the Frances, I pushed a bit too hard and ended with two minor but painful injures. I have learned my lesson so I would rather shorten a long stage but this may not be an option if there are no albergues. Can anyone advise me on albergues or perhaps there is a better app for the Camino Portuguese? Also.... why do both of these apps begin the Camino at the Lisbon cathedral when the official start is at the Igreja de Santiago? Thanks to all who help me plan!