LIVE from the Camino A Sketchbook Camino

[VNwalking]

You can of course stay in the San Anton albergue. It is a magical experience, and there are no shortage of artistic options.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

the ruin of the San Antonio monastery. Plus Castrojerez is also interesting.

These castle ruins were a definite highlight and a stand out memory for me, too! If you scroll down on the link there are some excellent pictures. I even enjoyed the climb up after walking a large part of the day...so worth it.

Castillo | Castrojeriz2023

 

[Stephan the Painter]

You will also find good material between Hontanas and the next town Castrojerez. There is a tower ruin just out of Hontanas and then the ruin of the San Antonio monastery. Plus Castrojerez is also interesting.

That was one of the best stretches of the Camino from an artistic point of view! Too bad it was raining! But I’ll definitely be back there sketchbook or paint brush in hand

 

[Stephan the Painter]

May 2. Mayday. A bigger holiday here than most places.

Left Hontanas and made a beautiful bike ride to Castrojeriz. Great scenery on approach to Castrojeriz. Saw the ruins of San Anton monastery on the way. A really good place to paint.

There was a huge hill (alto de Mostaleres) that took me about 30 minutes to push my bike up, and then a steep descent where I was too nervous to ride my bike down. Once that I was over I thought I had a smooth ride, but I was confronted by about 2 miles of road that was pure mud from the rain the night before. It was so thick that it was stopping the wheels from turning and I had to constantly clean them off. I probably ended up pushing the bike about 3 km and then having to completely stop and clean off the mud as best I could so it would work again. But once that was over it was a pretty easy ride for the rest of the day.

I traveled the day going through many seemingly economically depressed towns until I reached Probacion de Campos, where I spent the night.

May 3: In the morning, I was planning to do a drawing that would reference the Meseta, but found the view going out of town so compelling that I stopped and drew there. There are irrigation sluices(?), I guess, all over this region for farming.

Leaving Probacion de Campos, 15 x 22 cm or 6 x 9”, watercolor and ink.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I was confronted by about 2 miles of road that was pure mud from the rain the night before. It was so thick that it was stopping the wheels from turning and I had to constantly clean them off. I probably ended up pushing the bike about 3 km and then having to completely stop and clean off the mud as best I could so it would work again.

Yikes, this sounded like the risk of a potential new injury. Glad to hear all ended well.
BTW, another great sketch, as usual.

 

[Former member 49149]

May 2. Mayday. A bigger holiday here than most places where they fought a Civil War between the communists and the fascists.

Left Hontanas and made a beautiful bike ride to Castrojeriz. Great scenery on approach to Castrojeriz. Saw the ruins of San Anton monastery on the way. A really good place to paint.

There was a huge hill (alto de Mostaleres) that took me about 30 minutes to push my bike up, and then a steep descent where I was too nervous to ride my bike down. Once that I was over I thought I had a smooth ride, but I was confronted by about 2 miles of road that was pure mud from the rain the night before. It was so thick that it was stopping the wheels from turning and I had to constantly clean them off. I probably ended up pushing the bike about 3 km and then having to completely stop and clean off the mud as best I could so it would work again. But once that was over it was a pretty easy ride for the rest of the day.

I traveled the day going through many seemingly economically depressed towns until I reached Probacion de Campos, where I spent the night.

May 3: In the morning, I was planning to do a drawing that would reference the Meseta, but found the view going out of town so compelling that I stopped and drew there. There are irrigation sluices(?), I guess, all over this region for farming.

Leaving Probacion de Campos, 15 x 22 cm or 6 x 9”, watercolor and ink.
View attachment 124387

I was wondering how you were getting on!
Apart from the new brake pads, I hope your bike will last the pace. That hill took me 17 minutes - minus bike of course - and I did it without stopping to look back and admire the scenery. I knew if I stopped I was doomed! I invented a two breaths in and two breaths out technique and it worked. Buen Camino!

 

[ApproachingBliss]

I love your sketch/paintings. What kind of inks do you use? (pen/ink, meaning black or blue pen/ink meaning the color part)
I had to look up 'Probacion de Campos' and it translates as Field Probation. I thought what had the fields done to deserve to be on probation? A new crop or polluted soil or.... I had to look that up too, and it's part of the penitentiary system. So that is a prison, how cool.
Do you know what that bright yellow field is on the right hand side? Is it flowers or something else?

 

[trecile]

I had to look up 'Probacion de Campos' and it translates as Field Probation. I thought what had the fields done to deserve to be on probation? A new crop or polluted soil or.... I had to look that up too, and it's part of the penitentiary system. So that is a prison, how cool.

I'm sure that it was supposed to read Población de Campos.

 

[ApproachingBliss]

I'm sure that it was supposed to read Población de Campos.

Is it still a prison?

 

[J Willhaus]

Is it still a prison?

No, just a small village. "Population on the fields"

 

[ApproachingBliss]

No, just a small village. "Population on the fields"

Thank you!

 

[Former member 49149]

Everything depends on context. I used to hear people say "Vamos al Campo". I understood they were heading off to the countryside. Not so. The name of a hypermarket chain...

 

[Kathor1]

Do you know what that bright yellow field is on the right hand side?

It's a field of rapeseed, the same as in Stephan's earlier painting of Los Arcos, see post #79.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I love your sketch/paintings. What kind of inks do you use? (pen/ink, meaning black or blue pen/ink meaning the color part)
I had to look up 'Probacion de Campos' and it translates as Field Probation. I thought what had the fields done to deserve to be on probation? A new crop or polluted soil or.... I had to look that up too, and it's part of the penitentiary system. So that is a prison, how cool.
Do you know what that bright yellow field is on the right hand side? Is it flowers or something else?

The words you looked up are the name of a town. Spellcheck must of changed it and I did not see. The above commentators are right with the meaning and spelling.. And yes, The yellow flowering plant is rapeseed.

I use black Pentel hybrid Technica gel pens numbers .05 and .08. Also a PITT Black brush pen. I do the watercolor first, and then use the pens to accentuate and define.
I’m not sure exactly what ink they put in those pens. They say it’s pigmented archival ink. But it’s opaque black.

 

[ApproachingBliss]

It's Monday (nope Tuesday), and no painting.
How is your trip going?

I appreciate you sharing your painting/drawing pens. You have a lovely style.

 

[LavanyaLea]

It's Monday (nope Tuesday), and no painting.
How is your trip going?

I appreciate you sharing your painting/drawing pens. You have a lovely style.

Here’s one more, but he did post this a few days ago.

 

[ApproachingBliss]

Beautiful, thank you LavanyaLea.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Sorry for disappearing, I missed posting one here from Leon and then it got hotter and hillier after Astorga and although I did a few drawings, I didn’t have the energy to go online. I actually just got to Santiago this morning, although I haven’t seen the cathedral yet. Let’s just pretend that hasn’t happened yet….
And I thought I had posted this drawing already, but it doesn’t seem to be in the thread? Either I missed it or forgot.

May 3: I continued on for the day, and I spent the night in Ledigo, Where I met a nice international group of pilgrims to have dinner with. The next morning I did my shin splint preventative stretches in the park, which was the first time I had done it outside, and that was much more fun than doing it in the room or Albergue.

May 4: I was on my way and stopped in Sahagun, which is the halfway point of the Camino Francés, if you start it in St. Jean. Apparently you can get a halfway certificate there, which I wouldn’t have qualified for, since I started in Pamplona.

I did a small drawing there, shopped in the first full sized grocery store I had seen in many days, and was on my way.

That night I ended up in Mansilla De Las Mulas, which made it about a 45 km bike ride that day. It doesn’t sound like a lot for most bicycle touring, but I was so tired I couldn’t even leave my bed for dinner. Luckily I had some leftover lunch food.

May 5: The next day I had a relatively short trip to Leon. A fairly big city, with a nice center full of shops and restaurants.

Leon is famous for its cathedral that’s filled with beautiful stained glass windows. Here’s a drawing I did a the sculpture on the center door.

Later, when I went inside the cathedral, I saw the original 13th century sculpture which had been removed in 1954 and replaced by the one I drew. It’s hard to tell, because that original is quite degraded, but I think the sculptur who re-created it, made the face more modern.

The sculpture is called the (La?) Virgin Blanca, and this particular iteration of the Virgin Mary is esteemed in northern Spain and Basque country.
Despite its name, which means the white virgin in English, the sculpture was originally polychromed ( painted in multiple colors, as opposed to monochrome).

Virgen Blanca, Leon, 9 x 6” or 22 x 15 cm., Watercolor and Ink.

 

[trecile]

Stephan is on Instagram here.
Even if you don't have an Instagram account you can click on the link to see his work.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Another one from me a couple weeks ago as I catch up on posting here.

May 5: After I finished my last drawing on Leon, I decided to have dinner in the tapas bars. A little boring to do something like that alone, but I just chose that busiest bar in San Martin’s Plaza, which my hostel had recommended.

I ordered a beer, and in this particular bar they had just plates of tapas for you to take as you chose. The bar was quite crowded, and after I finished my beer, I decided to find a slightly quieter place. At that bar I ordered a glass of beer and they served me a tapas of my choice from a small menu. Halfway through the beer I ordered another tapas. By the time I had eaten four or five tapas, I was no longer hungry, so I just went in for the night.

The next day I packed up and went to the Leon Cathedral to get my Camino stamp, and was on my way.

May 6:

My goal today was Hospital de La Ortigo. There’s a very old Roman bridge there, which doesn’t make much sense now because it was designed to span the floodplain of a river. But since there’s a dam upriver now, it’s mostly unnecessary . But it’s been fully restored and it makes a nice centerpiece to this well taken care of town.

I stayed in an Albergue that was full of paintings, because the owners were big art fans. They also encouraged their guests to do a painting. But by the time I got there I was far too exhausted to do anything like that.

May 7:
In the morning I did a drawing of the bridge: Puenta de La Ortigo. 15 x 22 cm. or 6 x 9”, watercolor and ink. The Spanish flags were being put up that morning for a ceremony.

 

[Former member 49149]

22 arches if I remember correctly. Spies, correct me!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

My memory of crossing that bridge is "wow", although my preference would be if water flowed underneath as it would be more beautiful. There were two men working under it who had just stopped for their lunch break and in addition to food, they pulled out a bottle of wine to share.
I remember my Brierley book had some interesting info on the bridge's history; here it is.

 

[J Willhaus]

When we were there in summer 2016 they were having a jousting tournament on the grounds under the bridge!

 

[mspath]

My memory of crossing the first time in 2004 is quite intense. However I did meet memorable angels.

 

[VNwalking]

Even if you don't have an Instagram account you can click on the link to see his work.

No you can't. Unless you have a FB account.

 

[trecile]

No you can't. Unless you have a FB account.

Really? I didn't know that.

 

[VNwalking]

Really? I didn't know that.

Yes.

I am stubborn and refuse to feed the Meta monster. It's done so much damage in parts of the world I love. But being blocked out of any content is the cost - of course, is how they suck you in.

So please, @Stephan the Painter , more content on this harm-free Camino Forum, please!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I am not on FB, Instagram or Twitter, either. Somehow I think Google knows all about us anyway since we use the internet in other capacities, including this Forum.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Every Camino related artwork eventually will get posted here, no worries. Perhaps not in real time, because I’m busy doing it, now. I enjoy the informed comments I sometimes get here.

May 7: I left Hospital de Obrigo and proceeded up the road with no particular goal in mind. Eventually I decided on Rabenal del Camino. It was a long day for me, and got rather hot in the afternoon so I was really wiped out by the time I got there. But I had booked a private room in what ended up being a really nice hotel. It was actually the first time there was no issue with hot water.

The landscape changed from the flat farming fields of the Meseta and started to become more pastoral as I gained elevation. Tomorrow I’ll start to get into the mountains again. I expect to be pushing the bike a lot.

I tried a Spanish hamburger this evening, which I had been warned against, but it was quite good and almost exactly like a traditional American hamburger.

I’ve been having a dry cough the last four or five days and someone suggested to me that I actually have Covid. So I used the one test that I brought along, and tested negative. I think it’s more likely that this dry cough is allergy related. Breathing heavy through pollen producing fields for five or six hours every day. Or perhaps it’s just a run-of-the-mill cold.

May 8:

I left Rabanel del Camino a bit late after dawdling in my very comfortable room. A lot of bike pushing for the first 5 km. Maybe 90% of the walk up a hill. The goal this morning is Cruz de Ferro (The Iron cross?), A large crucifix that marks the High Point of the Camino Francés.

The Cruz de Ferro is, as pictured, an iron cross on top of a wooden pole. It looked about 4 or 5 yards or meters off the ground.

It’s a tradition for Camino pilgrims to bring a stone or something from home to leave behind at the spot. Often with the intention to leave something behind, an emotion or a grievance . But really, I think there are many different intentions. I left a small copper heart here, symbolizing something for me and my family.

And I spent a few hours doing a drawing: Cruz de Ferro, 6x 9 inches or 15 x 22 cm., Watercolor and ink.

 

[VNwalking]

Every Camino related artwork eventually will get posted here, no worries. Perhaps not in real time, because I’m busy doing it, now. I enjoy the informed comments I sometimes get here.

Yay! Gracias, Stephen.


A herd of RV campers?
After the quiet walk up from Rabinal, that must have been a shock.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Yay! Gracias, Stephen.


A herd of RV campers?
After the quiet walk up from Rabinal, that must have been a shock.

There must’ve been 15 RVs. And they all left at once.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Many days between drawings, so a long post here…

May 12:

I made the short distance to Sarria this morning. Not a very impressive town, although it has a big name as the beginning for about 50% of the people who do the Camino . That is because in order to get the certificate, you have to walk at least 100 km. And Sarria is the first place with good transportation connections that fits that criteria, at least for the Camino Frances (there are actually many other routes).

Anyway, the Camino became significantly more crowded. There was even a group of high school kids walking while playing music. Landscape became very pastoral. Lots of cattle and sheep grazing. Reminded me a bit of parts of Wisconsin near where I grew up.

I spent a little bit of time following some marked bike routes.
I met another bicyclist who was following that route, and he said it did go to Santiago. But when I tried to find it online, I couldn’t find anything. So I continue to follow the walking path on my bicycle. But because it’s crowded it’s actually a bit less pleasant.

The conclusion I came to is that walking the Camino is a much more intimate experience. You’re closer to the other walkers, and to the landscape. With a bicycle, you’re more just passing by. It’s a nice experience nevertheless, but different, and perhaps less intense.

Anyway, I made it to Castromayor tonight, I just knocked on the door of a pension to get a place to stay for the night. There are very few pilgrims in this town tonight, maybe 10 at the most. And that’s just perfect.

May 13 :
I headed off this morning. Lots of ups and down hills. I can’t pedal the bike even if there’s only a slight slope for more than a few minutes. I ended up in Melide.

The scenery is a mixture of forests and towns that are sometimes nice, sometimes not, but for the most part not near as interesting as many of the towns I saw on the first 600 km that I traveled.

Not much interesting to report in terms of sights or adventures. That may be because the landscape has become much more hilly and the weather has been hot. So I am more tired.

May 14:
Leaving Melide today I traveled about 42 km and ended up in a town called Lavacolla. I have planned to stay in an earlier town about 32 km on, O Pedrouza, but it looked like such a depressing place I couldn’t do it.

I wasn’t as exhausted as I would’ve been at the beginning. So I’m definitely getting in better shape. 400+ miles or almost 700 km of walking and bike riding will do that!

May 15:
A drizzly and rainy morning. Only 10 km from Santiago, the end of my Camino Francés. And of course I had a flat…

Anyway, a very quick ride into Santiago, and the first thing I did is check into a hotel for two nights.

After checking into my hotel room I went down to the Cathedral. It was actually a bit of a letdown, I didn’t feel celebratory. I didn’t see anybody I had met on the Camino, so there was really no one to celebrate with anyway.

I asked some people who had also done a bike pilgrimage to take a picture of me. I also, of course, got my Compostelo and appropriate stamps to show that I had completed the Camino. I walked around a bit and had a nice bowl of soup with some beer. Later I had a nasty pilgrim dinner.

May 16:
Went down to the center to see the cathedral. I went over to a park with a view of the cathedral, and started drawing which I never finished.

I had heard there was a church service at 7:30 where they would be swinging the incense pot. I decided to go to this. Unfortunately it was just a 90 minute church service with no incense pot swinging. I met David, a pilgrim from England who I had seen earlier in the Camino once or twice and we had some nice conversations.

May17-May 20:
Sick in bed with Norovirus at hotel.

May21:

Decided to try to go to hospital emergency room this morning, despite it being Saturday. I had a cough that was dragging on, and of course I had recently sick with food poisoning. It wasn’t an emergency, but I wanted a professional opinion. Everybody I talk to said my only choice to see a doctor was to go to
And emergency room. Weird. Anyway, Even though a local had said it would be quite inexpensive, in fact it was €250 just to see a doctor because I was an international resident as opposed to a European Union resident. It would’ve been €75 if I had been an EU resident, even though it was a private hospital. I decided to pass.

Some Italian friends whom I had met earlier during the Camino (Gianluca and Eve from Bologna) messaged me this morning to suggest that we meet. We met for a drink and then we went to the Musée de Peregrino.There I saw this wonderful travel journal by Munehiro Ikeda. About 4 o’clock they left for their plane.

May 22:
Feeling much better today. Drawing the two church steeples of the Santiago Cathedral from Praza do Obradoiro.

The Destination, 9 x 6” or 22 x 15 cm, watercolor and ink.

 

[VNwalking]

There must’ve been 15 RVs. And they all left at once.

A thundering herd.
Cue the Bonanza theme.

Well done, coming all that way, and recording it!
Sorry you've been unwell, Stephen, but glad you're on the mend.
Not sure how your marginal comments will be received, as those are potshots at sacred cows.

 

[Kathor1]

Feeling much better today. Drawing the two church steeples of the Santiago Cathedral from Praza do Obradoiro.

Ditto to what the previous commentator says.

As to the background: The Santiago City Council authorises them from 11 am until 9 pm - one at a time out of a predefined group of about a dozen in total. AFAIK, they may change every hour or so.

This is apparently a time-honoured tradition for welcoming arriving pilgrims. Time-honoured tradition means in this context: the last 20 years or so.

From late evening to late morning not allowed so that the guests in the nearby hotel can have some rest and get some sleep.

 

[Kathor1]

The sculpture is called the (La?) Virgin Blanca, and this particular iteration of the Virgin Mary is esteemed in northern Spain and Basque country. Despite its name, which means the white virgin in English, the sculpture was originally polychromed ( painted in multiple colors, as opposed to monochrome).Virgen Blanca, Leon, 9 x 6” or 22 x 15 cm., Watercolor and Ink.View attachment 125395

Correct, it is called Portada del Juicio Final. Last Judgment.

You can find this motif on a major portal on the outside of every medieval Cathedral and of numerous minor churches. THE reason for pilgrimage. That's what pilgrims wanted to escape from and feared more than anything. Or rather they wanted to make sure that they would be on the right side when the day arrived. You often find a depiction of what will happen to them in the lower section: the fate of the good people on the left (on the left as seen by the viewer but to the right of Christ in Majesty) and the fate of the not good people on the right. Very scary imagery.

And I say not only thanks for sharing your paintings but also for your entertaining and informative comments. I had not been aware of the significance of a Virgen Blanca. Interesting.

 

[Former member 49149]

Many days between drawings, so a long post here…

May 12:

I made the short distance to Sarria this morning. Not a very impressive town, although it has a big name as the beginning for about 50% of the people who do the Camino . That is because in order to get the certificate, you have to walk at least 100 km. And Sarria is the first place with good transportation connections that fits that criteria, at least for the Camino Frances (there are actually many other routes).

Anyway, the Camino became significantly more crowded. There was even a group of high school kids walking while playing music. Landscape became very pastoral. Lots of cattle and sheep grazing. Reminded me a bit of parts of Wisconsin near where I grew up.

I spent a little bit of time following some marked bike routes.
I met another bicyclist who was following that route, and he said it did go to Santiago. But when I tried to find it online, I couldn’t find anything. So I continue to follow the walking path on my bicycle. But because it’s crowded it’s actually a bit less pleasant.

The conclusion I came to is that walking the Camino is a much more intimate experience. You’re closer to the other walkers, and to the landscape. With a bicycle, you’re more just passing by. It’s a nice experience nevertheless, but different, and perhaps less intense.

Anyway, I made it to Castromayor tonight, I just knocked on the door of a pension to get a place to stay for the night. There are very few pilgrims in this town tonight, maybe 10 at the most. And that’s just perfect.

May 13 :
I headed off this morning. Lots of ups and down hills. I can’t pedal the bike even if there’s only a slight slope for more than a few minutes. I ended up in Melide.

The scenery is a mixture of forests and towns that are sometimes nice, sometimes not, but for the most part not near as interesting as many of the towns I saw on the first 600 km that I traveled.

Not much interesting to report in terms of sights or adventures. That may be because the landscape has become much more hilly and the weather has been hot. So I am more tired.

May 14:
Leaving Melide today I traveled about 42 km and ended up in a town called Lavacolla. I have planned to stay in an earlier town about 32 km on, O Pedrouza, but it looked like such a depressing place I couldn’t do it.

I wasn’t as exhausted as I would’ve been at the beginning. So I’m definitely getting in better shape. 400+ miles or almost 700 km of walking and bike riding will do that!

May 15:
A drizzly and rainy morning. Only 10 km from Santiago, the end of my Camino Francés. And of course I had a flat…

Anyway, a very quick ride into Santiago, and the first thing I did is check into a hotel for two nights.

After checking into my hotel room I went down to the Cathedral. It was actually a bit of a letdown, I didn’t feel celebratory. I didn’t see anybody I had met on the Camino, so there was really no one to celebrate with anyway.

I asked some people who had also done a bike pilgrimage to take a picture of me. I also, of course, got my Compostelo and appropriate stamps to show that I had completed the Camino. I walked around a bit and had a nice bowl of soup with some beer. Later I had a nasty pilgrim dinner.

May 16:
Went down to the center to see the cathedral. I went over to a park with a view of the cathedral, and started drawing which I never finished.

I had heard there was a church service at 7:30 where they would be swinging the incense pot. I decided to go to this. Unfortunately it was just a 90 minute church service with no incense pot swinging. I met David, a pilgrim from England who I had seen earlier in the Camino once or twice and we had some nice conversations.

May17-May 20:
Sick in bed with Norovirus at hotel.

May21:

Decided to try to go to hospital emergency room this morning, despite it being Saturday. I had a cough that was dragging on, and of course I had recently sick with food poisoning. It wasn’t an emergency, but I wanted a professional opinion. Everybody I talk to said my only choice to see a doctor was to go to
And emergency room. Weird. Anyway, Even though a local had said it would be quite inexpensive, in fact it was €250 just to see a doctor because I was an international resident as opposed to a European Union resident. It would’ve been €75 if I had been an EU resident, even though it was a private hospital. I decided to pass.

Some Italian friends whom I had met earlier during the Camino (Gianluca and Eve from Bologna) messaged me this morning to suggest that we meet. We met for a drink and then we went to the Musée de Peregrino.There I saw this wonderful travel journal by Munehiro Ikeda. About 4 o’clock they left for their plane.

May 22:
Feeling much better today. Drawing the two church steeples of the Santiago Cathedral from Praza do Obradoiro.

The Destination, 9 x 6” or 22 x 15 cm, watercolor and ink.
View attachment 126460

Thanks for update. I want to know though: on 15th, was the meal tasty or nasty? You got there! Well done, well done! Maybe you will meet a few more pilgrims you met along the way who will just be arriving. In a way, that does not really matter. The most important pilgrim is wearing your shoes!

 

[Kathor1]

I want to know though: on 15th, was the meal tasty or nasty?

LOL. Now I am getting curious, too. I take everything I read on the forum at face value . It did not even occur to me that @Stephan the Painter could have made a typo ...

 

[jungleboy]

LOL. Now I am getting curious, too. I take everything I read on the forum at face value . It did not even occur to me that @Stephan the Painter could have made a typo ...

Maybe it was tasty at the time but nasty later?

 

[Theatregal]

The Destination, 9 x 6” or 22 x 15 cm, watercolor and ink.
View attachment 126460

I've enjoyed your paintings but have to say that your words encouraging gun violence (however humorous it's meant) in these times - throughout our world and especially most immediately with the devastating heartbreaking tragedy in Texas, aren't words I expected to read on this forum.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I wanted to apologize for an offensive sentence that I posted here. Anything I said was simply a bad joke, and referred to nothing, and commented about nothing or was meant to encourage (!) anything at all, besides a thoughtless joke. I think a moderator might’ve edited it out? Because I couldn’t find it. Thank you.

And yes it was nasty, not tasty. No typo. I could barely finish it. Cooking is an art, and some people are good at it, some people not. It was just a random restaurant in the center, I couldn’t even find it again. And as I said, within 24 hours I had a Noro virus. Maybe from there, maybe from one of a dozen other places.

As I write this, I’m somewhere between Irun and Pamplona. I took a train to Leon and rented a car there ( great price, and I was going back east anyway). I’ve picked up my oil paints from Casa Ivar, and now will start slowly driving from SJPP back to Santiago for the next month stopping to do more paintings and drawings. Hopefully more productive than I’ve been in the last two months.

I had hoped to return east and walk the route between SJPP and Pamplona, since I started my Camino from Pamplona. But I find that’s still not possible because of my foot problems. And I left the bicycle in Santiago.

The question I have about that is if the roads that I find on the map that shows between SJPP and Orisson/Roncevalles, etc. are suitable for someone who is probably not comfortable driving on narrow mountain roads with big cliffs and aggressive local drivers. I have no problem walking roads like that, or even riding bicycles. But for some reason, I have difficulty doing it in a car.

But I want to see that area firsthand, and try to create some artwork up there. Especially from the Napoleon route.
Anybody have first-hand experience driving or observing the roads I might end up on? Or any suggestions for that area?

And here is some more artwork and a journal entry…..

Here’s one from the inside of the Santiago de Compostela cathedral. Just as I was finishing up, the guard came up to me and told me painting was not allowed… What is the world coming to?
Ceiling Cherubs, Santiago, 9 x 6” or 22 x 15 cm, watercolor and ink.


May 23:
Moved this morning from the hotel to an Airbnb, not too far away. Nice because it has its own kitchen. Saves me money, but also less irritating. I went and drew inside the cathedral during the day. Later it became to busy with a pending church service, so I went outside and drew some reliefs on the door leading from Praza de Praterias.

May24:
Finished drawing inside Cathedral…

 

[Anamiri]

I wanted to apologize for an offensive sentence that I posted here. Anything I said was simply a bad joke, and referred to nothing, and commented about nothing or was meant to encourage (!) anything at all, besides a thoughtless joke. I think a moderator might’ve edited it out? Because I couldn’t find it. Thank you.

And yes it was nasty, not tasty. No typo. I could barely finish it. Cooking is an art, and some people are good at it, some people not. It was just a random restaurant in the center, I couldn’t even find it again. And as I said, within 24 hours I had a Noro virus. Maybe from there, maybe from one of a dozen other places.

As I write this, I’m somewhere between Irun and Pamplona. I took a train to Leon and rented a car there ( great price, and I was going back east anyway). I’ve picked up my oil paints from Casa Ivar, and now will start slowly driving from SJPP back to Santiago for the next month stopping to do more paintings and drawings. Hopefully more productive than I’ve been in the last two months.

I had hoped to return east and walk the route between SJPP and Pamplona, since I started my Camino from Pamplona. But I find that’s still not possible because of my foot problems. And I left the bicycle in Santiago.

The question I have about that is if the roads that I find on the map that shows between SJPP and Orisson/Roncevalles, etc. are suitable for someone who is probably not comfortable driving on narrow mountain roads with big cliffs and aggressive local drivers. I have no problem walking roads like that, or even riding bicycles. But for some reason, I have difficulty doing it in a car.

But I want to see that area firsthand, and try to create some artwork up there. Especially from the Napoleon route.
Anybody have first-hand experience driving or observing the roads I might end up on? Or any suggestions for that area?

And here is some more artwork and a journal entry…..

Here’s one from the inside of the Santiago de Compostela cathedral. Just as I was finishing up, the guard came up to me and told me painting was not allowed… What is the world coming to?
Ceiling Cherubs, Santiago, 9 x 6” or 22 x 15 cm, watercolor and ink.


May 23:
Moved this morning from the hotel to an Airbnb, not too far away. Nice because it has its own kitchen. Saves me money, but also less irritating. I went and drew inside the cathedral during the day. Later it became to busy with a pending church service, so I went outside and drew some reliefs on the door leading from Praza de Praterias.

May24:
Finished drawing inside Cathedral…
View attachment 126529

Loved the account of your journey and your drawings, hopefully you'll share some of the new paintings

 

[VNwalking]

Ah. Wonderful. So we will see more!

the guard came up to me and told me painting was not allowed… What is the world coming to?

They have just spent gazillion Euros to restore the Cathedral. It is not hard to imagine why they wouldn't want anyone (no matter how careful or well-meaning) in there working with paint. And it's more practical to enforce a blanket ban than to ask the busy guards to navigate exceptions.

 

[naplesdon]

It is the end of May, where has STP disappeared to?

 

[Kathor1]

The question I have about that is if the roads that I find on the map that shows between SJPP and Orisson/Roncevalles, etc. are suitable for someone who is probably not comfortable driving on narrow mountain roads with big cliffs and aggressive local drivers. I have no problem walking roads like that, or even riding bicycles. But for some reason, I have difficulty doing it in a car.

But I want to see that area firsthand, and try to create some artwork up there. Especially from the Napoleon route.
Anybody have first-hand experience driving or observing the roads I might end up on? Or any suggestions for that area?

You may get more replies when you start a separate thread.

You can 'virtually' drive along these roads in Google Earth Streetview to get an idea. If you want to get from Roncesvalles to SJPP or vice versa, you will have to drive along the N-135 in Spain and the D-933 in France - same road, just different labels. These are not High Alpine roads. The D-933 has some sharp bends, I see that at one point a speed of 30 km/h is recommended. This is a comfortable road with two lanes. The D-428 road from SJPP to Orisson and beyond is narrow, has one sharp bend, and can also be 'driven' in Streetview. This road is perhaps less to your liking.

It is expensive to hire a car in one country and drop it off in a neighbouring country. You could hire a car in Pamplona and leave it in Roncesvalles; take bus or taxi from there to SJPP; take a taxi from SJPP for the Route Napoleon - look into the "Mountain Shuttle" which will drop you off in the morning at various points along the Route Napoleon and pick you up again in the afternoon but you can make the same arrangement with a taxi. The Virgin of Baikorri site is a very nice viewpoint, you could walk back down to Orisson ... You can also drive from Roncesvalles to the top of the Route Napoleon on the other side of the mountain. This is a narrow road with a lot of potholes.

BTW, the remark in question is in one of the paintings. You expressed your irritation without thinking of any other associations. I didn't make them either when I read it but ...

 

[Stephan the Painter]

You may get more replies when you start a separate thread.

You can 'virtually' drive along these roads in Google Earth Streetview to get an idea. If you want to get from Roncesvalles to SJPP or vice versa, you will have to drive along the N-135 in Spain and the D-933 in France - same road, just different labels. These are not High Alpine roads. The D-933 has some sharp bends, I see that at one point a speed of 30 km/h is recommended. This is a comfortable road with two lanes. The D-428 road from SJPP to Orisson and beyond is narrow, has one sharp bend, and can also be 'driven' in Streetview. This road is perhaps less to your liking.

It is expensive to hire a car in one country and drop it off in a neighbouring country. You could hire a car in Pamplona and leave it in Roncesvalles; take bus or taxi from there to SJPP; take a taxi from SJPP for the Route Napoleon - look into the "Mountain Shuttle" which will drop you off in the morning at various points along the Route Napoleon and pick you up again in the afternoon but you can make the same arrangement with a taxi. The Virgin of Baikorri site is a very nice viewpoint, you could walk back down to Orisson ... You can also drive from Roncesvalles to the top of the Route Napoleon on the other side of the mountain. This is a narrow road with a lot of potholes.

BTW, the remark in question is in one of the paintings. You expressed your irritation without thinking of any other associations. I didn't make them either when I read it but ...

I brilliant suggestion, thank you. I can take a look at StreetView to see if I’m willing to drive the roads. I’m visiting friends in Bayonne first so I’ll be approaching it from the SJPP side. I rented a car for a whole month, So if I can’t use it for a day or two I’ll just Park it and use alternative transportation.

And ah-ha! Since I’m posting from a cell phone, I don’t even think people can really read those little notes. But of course if you look at it on a bigger screen, since I posted Hi-Rez photos, I guess you can. Yes, the connection is quite an acrobatic stretch, thank you.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

My Camino adventures in Spain continue. Still a few days behind on posting my drawings.

May24:
I spent the afternoon drawing the fountain on Praza de Praterias. I was never able to ascertain a name for the fountain or any other information.

And probably someone will notice what I wrote about the street hustlers. I’ve had some very bad experiences in the past in Europe being robbed and once having my bicycle tires slashed. Because I’m sitting in the same place for several hours, sometimes it attracts bad people. Nothing at all happened this day, but at least one person came up to me and started asking me for money. And a couple men sat near me who look like they were up to no good.

You have to understand, those little notes and drawings are very quick and casual notes to myself about what’s happening around me, to remind me of the events. Overwhelmingly, they are nice and positive. But sometimes not.

Fountain in Praza de Praterias, 6 x 9” or 15 x 22 cm, watercolor and ink.

 

[Kathor1]

drawing the fountain on Praza de Praterias. I was never able to ascertain a name for the fountain or any other information

Do I read you correctly? That this is an invitation to us to find out more about it?

Other than being a well-known landmark, there is not much to say about this fountain on the Praza das Praterias. It is not an old fountain as it is not even 200 years old. The four horses have given it the popular name of Fuente dos Caballos - Horses Fountain. The figure on top is supposedly the City of Santiago, holding a star and sitting on a box or sarcophagus, both pointing to the founding myth of the city, namely the discovery of the tomb of the apostle Saint James nearby. Before I googled it today, I had never even noticed all this much ... it is the horses that one notices primarily.

Your observations ... often a touchy topic of course ... I noticed on the webcams yesterday and today that there are two persons 'working' the crowd and belonging together, one of them sitting just outside of the Holy Door and the other one sitting just outside of the main entrance for the visitors of the Cathedral. It is the same image, or a version thereof, that I've seen along the long road to Santiago, I remember having seen it for example outside of the Basilica of Saint Quentin in Northern France, in front of Notre Dame in Paris of course, and outside of the cathedrals of Poitiers and of Burgos ... I won't say more except that I stubbornly stick to my own traditions and make my charitable donations when I am inside of a church and not outside of it ... .

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Do I read you correctly? That this is an invitation to us to find out more about it?

Other than being a well-known landmark, there is not much to say about this fountain on the Praza das Praterias. It is not an old fountain as it is not even 200 years old. The four horses have given it the popular name of Fuente dos Caballos - Horses Fountain. The figure on top is supposedly the City of Santiago, holding a star and sitting on a box or sarcophagus, both pointing to the founding myth of the city, namely the discovery of the tomb of the apostle Saint James nearby. Before I googled it today, I had never even noticed all this much ... it is the horses that one notices primarily.

Your observations ... often a touchy topic of course ... I noticed on the webcams yesterday and today that there are two persons 'working' the crowd and belonging together, one of them sitting just outside of the Holy Door and the other one sitting just outside of the main entrance for the visitors of the Cathedral. It is the same image, or a version thereof, that I've seen along the long road to Santiago, I remember having seen it for example outside of the Basilica of Saint Quentin in Northern France, in front of Notre Dame in Paris of course, and outside of the cathedrals of Poitiers and of Burgos ... I won't say more except that I stubbornly stick to my own traditions and make my charitable donations when I am inside of a church and not outside of it ... .

Good information! And of course I cut off the top of the fountain, but only because I couldn’t fit it in. I often wished for a larger sketchbook.
And perhaps it’s not the most attractive fountain. It needs a really good cleaning. Rain was threatening and the spot I found to sit protected me.

I saw the people very obviously begging by the church, but these were different people. They seemed less polite…

 

[Stephan the Painter]

My adventures in Spain continue. Now I’m returning to the beginning of the Camino France and driving slowly back to Santiago while painting.

May 27:

Left early to go to Santiago train station. Tried to call cab unsuccessfully due to language difficulties. But I managed to take the bus which dropped me off at just a few blocks away. Traveling to Leon,Spain to pick up a rental car which I got a good deal on.

May 27-28
Left Leon and drove east. I contacted my old friend Marco in France and planned a visit for a few days. Stopped in Irun at Marco’s suggestion, but although it was a nice city it wasn’t very interesting. Apparently I didn’t go to the right spot.

In the evening I made it to Marco and Cynthia’s and Tanaquil’s house In the evening. We sat around in their yard and drank much wine and had dinner. I met a couple of their boarders, Pierce and Jorge.

May 29.
More sitting around drinking lots of French wine. It was a Sunday, took some local walks, not doing much…

May 30:

I drove down to St. Jean-Pied-de-Port. A little over an hour drive through the French countryside. Pretty, but constant turning and going up and down little roads. I’m never sure if the navigation apps make driving more difficult or not?

Once I got there, I wandered around and took some photos and eventually settled on the river for a place to do a drawing.

Notre Dame Gate , St. Jean-Pied-de-Port , 6 x 9” or 15 x 22 cm., watercolor and ink.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Two for the price of one today:

My May 31.
Around the house in the morning. I went and did an oil painting of the local church in the afternoon. Picked up some necessary supplies for painting at the local big box store.

Took a trip to the beach and had dinner with Marco and Tanaquil. I had a really nice duck, they had burgers. Magnificent dunes and beach.

June 1:

I left this morning to go back to Spain. I made it to Saint Jean de Pied de Port and attempted to drive up to the Vierge d’Orisson, which is a Virgin Mary statue placed in the mountains. But the narrow mountain roads made me too nervous and I ended up turning around. I wish I had finished walking up there, because I feel I need to go up there. So tomorrow I’ll return.

On my way back to Spain, I stopped in Roncevalles and did a watercolor sketchbook drawing. Ended up staying in Espinal at a nice casa rural.
The oil painting I did two days later.



Roncevalles, 6 x 9 inches or 15 x 22 cm., watercolor and ink.
Roncevalles, 8 x 12” or 20 x 30 cm., oil.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I’m on the sketching and painting phase of my Camino de Santiago adventures in Spain and have a rental car now (or technically France, on this day):

June 2: Drove about 10 km to go to a grocery store in the morning. Now I am on my way back to Saint Jean to finish the walk up the hill. I thought I might drive around from the other end but the steep mountain road made me nervous.
I parked the car about 4 km away from the Orisson Albergue. Right below the first steep hill. I then trudged up the hill for several kilometers, passing Orisson and then proceeding along to the Virgin Baikorri or Virge D’ Orrison, where I did a sketch:

Virgin Baikorri or Virge D’ Orrison, 6 x 9” are 15 x 22 cm., watercolor and ink.

Probably about 18 to 20 km of walking round trip by the time I got back to my car. But a stunning walk it was!

 

[J Willhaus]

Lovely! Sounds like your foot/leg issue is also improved?

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Lovely! Sounds like your foot/leg issue is also improved?

It is better, thank you. But not being able to walk for a week put the fear of God in me. Anytime I’m taking a long walk I make sure I do my stretches and I tape up my shin as a preventative.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

My Camino de Santiago adventures in Spain continue, now with a car and more painting equipment!:

June 3:

Stayed in Burguette for the night. This morning drove back to Roncevalles where I did some exploring to find a good spot to paint from.

Had a really difficult time finding a spot I liked. Ended up with a view of the parking lot and part of the building complex (see previous post). Very windy and surprisingly cold day.

Back to Espinal for the night while I’m staying for two days.

June 4:

Exploring the small camino towns between Espinal and Pamplona.

Ended up driving to Zubiri where I did both an oil painting and a watercolor sketch of the bridge. I had a difficult time with the surface on the oil painting and I’m starting to wonder if I should buy some better watercolor paper and try focusing on those instead?

Lots of pilgrims as well as locals splashing around in the river in front of the bridge.

I didn’t care for the oil painting, but here’s the sketchbook watercolor I did: Zubiri Bridge, 6 x 9” or 15 x 22 cm, watercolor and ink.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

My Camino de Santiago painting adventures in northern Spain continue:

Not sure if anybody’s really reading my relatively unexciting narrative, but I realize I sound a bit depressed and pessimistic. I think after 10 weeks of having to organize a place to stay and where to get food and taking care of all the logistics of living on the road and now the extra stress of driving in an unfamiliar environment, I’m just tired.

But no worries, once I’m curled up in a corner drawing or standing at my easel, life is sunny and joyful!

June 5:
Left Espinal And spent the day painting an oil in Larrasoana and latter a watercolor in Akeretta.

Medieval Bridge in Larrasoana , 9 x 10” or 22 x 25 cm., oil.

Later I drove into Pamplona and got a hotel in the industrial suburb of Berrioplano. An unpleasant night starting with the failure of my card key after the reception had gone home for the day. I had to call an emergency number to get someone to come and fix it.

June 6:
A stressful day in Pamplona doing some shopping. Stressful because of the heavy traffic, and traffic patterns that I’m not familiar with. I was able to go to a very good art store and bought some linseed oil, a new tube of ultramarine blue watercolor, and a brush and larger watercolor sketchbook.

Unfortunately, it is now difficult to get a reasonably priced room in any of the Camino towns. I ended up in Larraga, About 15 km away from Puente La Reina and the Camino France trail.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Stephan, I have often read your commentary, in addition to my continual amazement of the gift you have in painting lovely watercolors. Having started in early April you have been "on the road" for two months now, which is a long time. None of us get through and finish the Camino without any hitches along the way, especially with the length of time you have been in Spain. You have definitely had your share of difficulty, but you have persevered so far and are still moving forward. I am not sure if I have missed seeing an end date you have in mind or if you are unsure at this time when you will go home, but you are certainly having a sketchbook adventure!

 

[J Willhaus]

My Camino de Santiago painting adventures in northern Spain continue:

Not sure if anybody’s really reading my relatively unexciting narrative, but I realize I sound a bit depressed and pessimistic. I think after 10 weeks of having to organize a place to stay and where to get food and taking care of all the logistics of living on the road and now the extra stress of driving in an unfamiliar environment, I’m just tired.

But no worries, once I’m curled up in a corner or standing at my easel, life is sunny and joyful!

June 5:
Left Espinal And spent the day painting an oil in Larrasoana and latter a watercolor in Akeretta.

Medieval Bridge in Larrasoana , 9 x 10” or 22 x 25 cm., oil.View attachment 127365

Later I drove into Pamplona and got a hotel in the industrial suburb of Berrioplano. An unpleasant night starting with the failure of my card key after the reception had gone home for the day. I had to call an emergency number to get someone to come and fix it.

June 6:
A stressful day in Pamplona doing some shopping. Stressful because of the heavy traffic, and traffic patterns that I’m not familiar with. I was able to go to a very good art store and bought some linseed oil, a new tube of ultramarine blue watercolor, and a brush and larger watercolor sketchbook.

Unfortunately, it is now difficult to get a reasonably priced room in any of the Camino towns. I ended up in Larraga, About 15 km away from Puente La Reina and the Camino France trail.

Hi @Stephan the Painter, enjoying your journey here from home despite all the bumps and hiccups you are experiencing. You may want to go over to the Aragones now that you have a car to see if anything there strikes you as artworthy. It is close to Pamplona. The church at Eunate, the castle at Javier, and some if the monasteries and hill towns may be appealing subjects also less traffic to deal with than Pamplona.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

@Camino Chrissy , @J Willhaus
I got here the end of March and started walking the Camino April 6. I had always planned to finish the Camino about May 15, which I did, because of the bicycle, despite the 15 day shin splint break.

And the plan was always to rent a car and drive along the Camino painting for a further six weeks. I lost a couple weeks of that time because of various things, and now it seems the big problem is that there’s a heat wave!

The last two days it’s been too hot in the afternoons for me to do anything but try to find a shady spot.

So I think I’ll drive to the coast and then work my way back and hope it cools down by the time I get back towards the middle which is where I’m supposed to be this week.

I have a flight booked out of Barcelona June 28. Barcelona because I got a really good deal on that specific date.

In a sense I’m actually living a dream. But in the dream there were no logistics! Just all fun!

And here’s another one from June 5: Wild Garden in Akerreta, 6 x 9“ or 15 x 22 cm., watercolor and ink.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Camino Chrissy , @J Willhaus
I got here the end of March and started walking the Camino April 6. I had always planned to finish the Camino about May 15, which I did, because of the bicycle, despite the 15 day shin splint break.

And the plan was always to rent a car and drive along the Camino painting for a further six weeks. I lost a couple weeks of that time because of various things, and now it seems the big problem is that there’s a heat wave!

The last two days it’s been too hot in the afternoons for me to do anything but try to find a shady spot.

So I think I’ll drive to the coast and then work my way back and hope it cools down by the time I get back towards the middle which is where I’m supposed to be this week.

I have a flight booked out of Barcelona June 28. Barcelona because I got a really good deal on that specific date.

In a sense I’m actually living a dream. But in the dream there were no logistics! Just all fun!

And here’s another one from June 5:View attachment 127456 Wild Garden in Akerreta, 6 x 9“ or 15 x 22 cm., watercolor and ink.

Thanks, Stephan, for offering to take the time to explain in detaile your rather fluid itinerary. How very blessed you are to be spending a full 90 days in Spain.
I love all your paintings, but this one with the distinct bright pink flowers adds a new bit of eye candy for me...lovely to the max!

 

[ApproachingBliss]

I like this one so much, the richness of the colors is great.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

@Camino Chrissy @ApproachingBliss
Thanks for the feedback!

June 8:
I went to Puente de La Riena and painted the Iglesia Crucficos. Such a Corot looking composition, and one I really thought about coming back to paint when I first saw it in April.

Iglesia del Crucifijo, 8 x 12” or 20 x30 cm, oil.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

June 8:
After my morning session in Puente de La Riena I went to Ciraqui, and did a watercolor of the Iglesias San Romano. The grandmother who had placed all the flower pots on the steps came out and was so happy that I was including her flower pots in the painting that she called all her friends over to see! That’s one of the joys painting on location.

Iglesia de San Roman, Cirauqui, 15 x 22 cm or 6 x 9”, watercolor and ink.

 

[Former member 49149]

June 8:
After my morning session in Puente de La Riena I went to Ciraqui, and did a watercolor of the Iglesias San Romano. The grandmother who had placed all the flower pots on the steps came out and was so happy that I was including her flower pots in the painting that she called all her friends over to see! That’s one of the joys painting on location. View attachment 127762

Iglesia de San Roman, Cirauqui, 15 x 22 cm or 6 x 9”, watercolor and ink.

Stephan, I am following you, not with any clicks beyond whenever I see you have posted. You are having the time of your life? Some days, yes, some days no. C'est la vie, monsieur! Thanks once more. Did you sell your bike yet?

 

[VNwalking]

The grandmother who had placed all the flower pots on the steps came out and was so happy that I was including her flower pots in the painting that she called all her friends over to see!

You just made a señora's day, Stephen.
How good is that, in this messed-up world?

Gracias, also for brightening ours!

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Stephan, I am following you, not with any clicks beyond whenever I see you have posted. You are having the time of your life? Some days, yes, some days no. C'est la vie, monsieur! Thanks once more. Did you sell your bike yet?

After the initial problems the trip has gone well. I’ve had a great time, although perhaps I’ve been in Spain a little too long and I’m getting anxious to get home. At the moment I’m in Barcelona and catch a plane back to the East Coast of the United States in a couple days.

The bike is actually locked up at a public bike lock up in santiago at the moment. I had to research it but I seem to remember there was someone that posts on this board sometimes that helps poor or homeless people in santiago and I thought I would ask them if they wanted the bike for free. But I can’t remember off the top of my head and I have to research it.

If not, I was going to contact Ivar and see if he knows someone. Or if you or anyone else has suggestions?

It’s right near the center. Not very many people in santiago seem to ride bikes, so I think it’s probably still there.

 

[LavanyaLea]

It’s right near the center. Not very many people in santiago seem to ride bikes, so I think it’s probably still there.

LOL. I’ve always lived in places where bikes would get nicked in 5s

Safe journey home!

 

[Former member 49149]

After the initial problems the trip has gone well. I’ve had a great time, although perhaps I’ve been in Spain a little too long and I’m getting anxious to get home. At the moment I’m in Barcelona and catch a plane back to the East Coast of the United States in a couple days.

The bike is actually locked up at a public bike lock up in santiago at the moment. I had to research it but I seem to remember there was someone that posts on this board sometimes that helps poor or homeless people in santiago and I thought I would ask them if they wanted the bike for free. But I can’t remember off the top of my head and I have to research it.

If not, I was going to contact Ivar and see if he knows someone. Or if you or anyone else has suggestions?

It’s right near the center. Not very many people in santiago seem to ride bikes, so I think it’s probably still there.

I suggest you contact Ivar, natefaith, SYates. I presume you can give them a photo of the exact location - it would be dreadful if they hauled away to the dungeons for attempted bike robbery! Thanks for sharing your journey, and your delightful artwork. Safe trip home. I well understand that sense of being away too long...

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I am in fact still in Spain, and still was painting along the Camino France until two days ago. I’m way behind posting here. At the moment I’m in Barcelona and will be going home in a few days, but I still have enough paintings I’ve done in the last couple weeks that I’ll probably be posting here through the month of July.

June 9:

Today I drove up to Villaturta where I had seen a lovely composition with the Ermita de San Miguel Arcángel church in the countryside. I did an oil:
Ermita de San Miguel Arcángel, 8 x 12“ or 20 x 30 cm, oil.

Then I drove into a Estella, planning to do some drawings of some lovely ancient reliefs I had seen when previously passing by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

But without a chair I couldn’t get a comfortable spot to get close enough, so I ended up wandering down into Estella and finding a nice place to draw on the river:

Puente de La Carcel, Estella, 6 x 9“ or 15 x 22 cm., watercolor and ink.

June 10:

I went to lovely Los Arcos today. I think it is one of the nicest towns and the Camino from a compositional standpoint.

I was planning to do an oil painting from the same viewpoint I had done a watercolor here on my trip through it while I was actually doing the Camino France, but I decided it was too hot.

In the afternoon, I ended up doing a watercolor sketch of the Plaza del Santa Maria. I tried to be careful and choose a spot that didn’t get much sun, but I was foiled and ended up going back to the car to get an umbrella. Which helped a little.

Plaza de Santa Maria, 9 x 6“ or 22 x 15 cm., Watercolor and ink.

And then I did go over and paint in the olive grove where I had done a watercolor while I was actually doing the Camino. It cooled off enough to be comfortable and because the sun was low there was a cast shadow from a largish olive tree.

From the Olive Grove Into Los Arcos, 8 x 12” or 20 x 30 cm, oil.

 

[hel&scott]

Safe trip home, your Camino may not gave gone as planned, but you adapted and made it work for you. And along the way you gave a lit of pleasure to us house bound Camino stalkers.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I recently returned home to North America , but still have at least a dozen more images and journal entries to post:

Today’s image:
Santuario da Virxe da Barca, Muxia, Spain, 6 x 18” or 15 x 45 cm. Watercolor and ink.

June 11:
I left Larraga in the morning and started driving to Sansol and Torres del Rio planning to paint there. But by the time I got there it was excruciatingly hot. I changed my plans and decided to go to Navarrete where I remember there being a large church that I thought I could draw inside. However, I couldn’t find anything inspiring and it was a bit dark. I then went to the Plaza in front of the church and try to do some drawing, but a thunderstorm started. Not the best day!

I just decided to go where I was staying, and spent the evening and overnight in
a off Camino town called Fuenmayor. A beautiful and busy plaza there.

June 12:
The weather report tells me it’s going to get quite hot in the center of Northern Spain. Since I was going to end up there anyway, I’ve decided to drive to the Atlantic coast, where there are two towns that people who walk to Camino often hike to after Santiago de Compostela.
It took me about eight hours to drive to Camarinas, where I found a very nice room where I’m staying for three days at a bargain price.

June 13.
I drove off to Muxia , where I explored the town. There’s a lovely church, lighthouse and rock formations at the end of the peninsula, where I’m planning to draw this afternoon. I ended up working from the car because there was so much wind, I couldn’t hold all the equipment down! Or find a satisfactory composition and eventually just gave up

June 14:
Back up to Muxia to try to do one drawing and then I’ll drive to Finisterre.
There was less wind at Muxia today and I was able to find a sheltered spot to do a drawing. I tried a double page landscape today, and while it was not my absolutely best drawing, I was pleased with the results.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Stephan, "if and when" you decide to make a book of your many Camino paintings for purchase, please let us know; perhaps sold on Amazon.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Stephan, "if and when" you decide to make a book of your many Camino paintings for purchase, please let us know; perhaps sold on Amazon.

I’ll definitely let the forum know. I’m hoping to do something by the fall, although of course after being away from home for three months there’s a mountain of work to do! Maybe I’ll go back to Spain and put it off for another few months, ha ha!

 

[Former member 49149]

I recently returned home to North America , but still have at least a dozen more images and journal entries to post:

Today’s image:
Santuario da Virxe da Barca, Muxia, Spain, 6 x 18” or 15 x 45 cm. Watercolor and ink.
View attachment 128843
June 11:
I left Larraga in the morning and started driving to Sansol and Torres del Rio planning to paint there. But by the time I got there it was excruciatingly hot. I changed my plans and decided to go to Navarrete where I remember there being a large church that I thought I could draw inside. However, I couldn’t find anything inspiring and it was a bit dark. I then went to the Plaza in front of the church and try to do some drawing, but a thunderstorm started. Not the best day!

I just decided to go where I was staying, and spent the evening and overnight in
a off Camino town called Fuenmayor. A beautiful and busy plaza there.

June 12:
The weather report tells me it’s going to get quite hot in the center of Northern Spain. Since I was going to end up there anyway, I’ve decided to drive to the Atlantic coast, where there are two towns that people who walk to Camino often hike to after Santiago de Compostela.
It took me about eight hours to drive to Camarinas, where I found a very nice room where I’m staying for three days at a bargain price.

June 13.
I drove off to Muxia , where I explored the town. There’s a lovely church, lighthouse and rock formations at the end of the peninsula, where I’m planning to draw this afternoon. I ended up working from the car because there was so much wind, I couldn’t hold all the equipment down! Or find a satisfactory composition and eventually just gave up

June 14:
Back up to Muxia to try to do one drawing and then I’ll drive to Finisterre.
There was less wind at Muxia today and I was able to find a sheltered spot to do a drawing. I tried a double page landscape today, and while it was not my absolutely best drawing, I was pleased with the results.

I still look out for your posts. Did you discover a way to gift your bike yet? I remember the silliest things! I must look up something, and post it again. I loved the work of a painter and of course did not take enough notes, but the ever faithful @mspath tracked it down...
I will be back. My reason: I loved the eye of the painter. I would be interested in your response to it.

 

[mspath]

This cites the attachment, post and painting
to which Kirkie referred in the post above.
Here is the response from the Gijon museum re the painting

 

[Former member 49149]

Thank you. @mspath, for once more stepping into the breach! Exactly.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

June 14:
After my morning session doing the double page spread in Muxia from the last post, I went to Fisterre, (also called Finisterre) where I did a sketch of the lighthouse there.
I
Faro de Fisterre, 6x9 inches or 15 x 22 cm., watercolor and ink.

After that session I met a nice Dutch man and we had dinner. We discussed his plans to walk another Camino, since he had just finished the Camino Portuguese. I suggested that he not do that, because he was really happy with how his adventure had turned out, and I related my experience that I had gotten a bored after the first six or eight weeks in Spain. I was staying to finish my project, but the truth was that I was also anxious to end it and go home.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I still look out for your posts. Did you discover a way to gift your bike yet? I remember the silliest things! I must look up something, and post it again. I loved the work of a painter and of course did not take enough notes, but the ever faithful @mspath tracked it down...
I will be back. My reason: I loved the eye of the painter. I would be interested in your response to it.

From what I can see of it, it looks wonderful. I’m going to add that museum to my bucket list of places to go see in Spain the next time I return. I know there’s all sorts of nice things along the coast up there anyway.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

My Camino de Santiago adventures in Spain continue:
June 15:
Feeling down today, maybe because the weather was muggy and heavy. I didnt quite know what to do today, but I saw some Galician Horreos, which are small elevated stone grain storage buildings, and decided to try to draw those. You see these all over Galicia while traveling the Camino. It took me a long time to find a satisfactory composition and I wandered around all day. Finally in the evening I found something I liked:

Galician Horreo, 6 x 9“ or 15 x 22 cm., watercolor and ink.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thank you, Stephan, for continuing to share your lovely variety of paintings with us.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Old Grain Storage(Horreo), O Coton, (Palas del Rey) Spain, 6 x 9” or 15 x 22 cm, watercolor and ink.

June 16:
I’ve decided to leave the coastal town of Camarinas today, but as I write this I’m not actually sure where I’m going to go. It’s still quite hot inland. I thought of going down to Porto in Portugal, which is not that far, but there is rain predicted there, although it’s very cool.

In the end, I decided to drive back inland and headed first for Negriera to take a look if there was any thing interesting to paint there, but decided against it and headed for Palas de Rey.

There I did a couple small watercolor sketch books drawings in a small town a few kilometers away from the center called O Coton. A nice place but not many people there and everybody watching me wondering what the heck I was doing! At least until I started drawing:

I spent the night in a room nearby but they lost power in the middle of the night and it was out until the early morning. Luckily I had my little clip on light that I use for night painting. There was no one on site, and when I called they just told me to wait until the morning. Nice.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Two interesting paintings of horreos; completely different from each other....both equally nice!

 

[Stephan the Painter]

The second one I did on the Camino France route on June 16. Near Palas Del Rei, Galicia.

Igrexa de San Julian do Camino, O Coton, Spain, 6 x 9” or 15 x 22 cm, watercolor and ink.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I am glad I get the alerts for all your new posts, Stephan. Your paintings are candy for the eye.

 

[jungleboy]

I like how you took out the crane! An advantage of painting versus photography.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Capela das Neves, Portomarin, Spain, 8 x 12” or 20 x 30 cm, oil.


June 17:

I headed for Portomarin, where I did an oil painting of thethe stairs/bridge there In the morning.

After that I went to Triacastella, where I walked around for a long time trying to find something to paint. The views that I had photographs of didn’t inspire when I saw them in person ( My cell phone photographs were how I remembered locations that I wanted to come back and paint. It’s so wonderful to use the location settings to be able to see a map of where a particular spot was. Technology really working!).

I had a pilgrims menu in the evening and drank way too much wine. Hungover the next morning! But the room was nice because it had a great balcony and I was able to sit out on it and enjoy the cool night air.

 

[Anamiri]

Capela das Neves, Portomarin, Spain, 8 x 12” or 20 x 30 cm, oil.

View attachment 129492
June 17:

I headed for Portomarin, where I did an oil painting of thethe stairs/bridge there In the morning.

After that I went to Triacastella, where I walked around for a long time trying to find something to paint. The views that I had photographs of didn’t inspire when I saw them in person ( My cell phone photographs were how I remembered locations that I wanted to come back and paint. It’s so wonderful to use the location settings to be able to see a map of where a particular spot was. Technology really working!).

I had a pilgrims menu in the evening and drank way too much wine. Hungover the next morning! But the room was nice because it had a great balcony and I was able to sit out on it and enjoy the cool night air.

Did you paint in Samos?

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I was in Triacastela, Galicia on June 18. I did a sketchbook watercolor of the Romanesque church in the town. The van was parked there for quite a while, and was from the town workers mowing the lawn.

Iglesia de Santiago, Tricastela, 15 x 22 cm or 6 x 9“ come out watercolor and ink.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Did you paint in Samos?

I did. And I checked through some of the back posts and I didn’t see it that painting. I thought I had posted it here but maybe I forgot.
Here it is:
Samos monastery 6 x 9“ or 15 x 22 cm, watercolor and ink.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

June 19:
This morning I went to Molinaseca, a pretty town, but also full of tourists.
As is typical, I spent two hours fruitlessly searching for a place I wanted to oil paint before I decided just to sit down and work with my sketchbook. I did a drawing of the Romanesque bridge which is the centerpoint of the town.

Painting with a standing easel for the oil paint often attracts a lot more attention than just sitting down with a sketchbook. Sometimes when I don’t feel like interacting with people, I have a lot of trouble finding a spot that I think is going to be undisturbed.

Romanesque Bridge, Molinaseca, Spain, 15 x 22 cm or 6 x 9”, watercolor and ink.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Old balcony in San Cristovo Do Real, Galicia, 15 x 22 cm or 6 x 9”, watercolor and ink.

Galicia was full of these old wooden balconies which fascinated me. As far as I could tell the beams that support the balconies were designed with the structure because they were sticking out of the stone walls. They do double duty as supports for the second floors. I’d love to learn more about these balconies if anybody has any information or links.

June 18:
This was a tiny town that looked partially deserted that I had taken some nice photographs at and wanted to return to. A lovely bridge there and waterfall as well: San Cristóvo do Real.

There I set up on the side of a narrow little street that appeared deserted. But near the end of my drawing time another local grandmother came out her door and seemed quite unhappy that I was there. I couldn’t quite get it because I think she was talking to me in Galician, but I got the feeling she was unhappy that I was set up in the middle of the street.

Mind you in two hours not a person or a car had come by. And only a tiny car would’ve possibly made it down that street… Anyway, I left shortly thereafter, although some other locals did come by and seemed quite happy that I was there.

 

[HitherandThither]

I love following your journey. It must be wonderful to get so close to the landscape in this way.
Theresa

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I love following your journey. It must be wonderful to get so close to the landscape in this way.
Theresa

Thank you, That’s it exactly. Unless you’re someone who draws or paints from observation, you probably never really look at something the way I do. I can still bring up details of that street in my mind that aren’t in the drawing. I’ll be studying something for hours, sometimes days if I’m doing a bigger painting. I like to call it slow looking.

 

[zenofmatthew]

Thank you, That’s it exactly. Unless you’re someone who draws or paints from observation, you probably never really look at something the way I do. I can still bring up details of that street in my mind that aren’t in the drawing. I’ll be studying something for hours, sometimes days if I’m doing a bigger painting. I like to call it slow looking.

I was in too big of a hurry on the camino, didn't spend enough time drawing. Didn't help I was in a serious pen and ink slump at the time. It is amazing what you remember when you sit and draw.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I was in too big of a hurry on the camino, didn't spend enough time drawing. Didn't help I was in a serious pen and ink slump at the time. It is amazing what you remember when you sit and draw.

For me, the main goal was to draw the Camino. The other things I did in Spain were secondary, ha ha! And I had the luxury of a lot of time.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Just a few more to post until the end of my time on the Camino France.
Rabanel del Camino, 8 x 10“ or 20 x 25 cm, oil.

June 20, 2022:
Went to Rabanel del Camino this morning. Rabanel has a pleasant hippie vibe, and I had a nice time here when I came through doing the Camino . Painting here this day was a difficult with spurts of wind and rain, but I finally set up and did a view of the town from a field just outside of it.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Iglesia de Paraguil de Santa Maria, 6 x 9” or 15 x 22 cm., watercolor and ink.
In Santa Domingo de Samoza. From the Camino France on June 21, 2022.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I've recently started to get much more serious about the book of my Camino sketches I plan to do. It's my fall project.

I started editing and cleaning up the images and I put a blog post up on my website with a dozen images, and my Camino story:

A Sketching Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage

I had been plotting and dreaming for years. So in the spring of 2022, I grabbed my sketchbook and embarked on the Camino Francés, the primary route of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage in northern …

stephangiannini.com

I also post duplicate content on my substack if you like that platform:

A Sketching Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage

I had been plotting and dreaming for years.

stephanpaints.substack.com

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Stephan, I'm looking forward to reading these blog posts with pictures today. I can't wait to hear when your book will be available...I still love paper books and with all your beautiful sketches/paintings it will be a winner!
P.S. Seeing your surname, I'll ask if you are part Italian.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Stephan, I'm looking forward to reading these blog posts with pictures today. I can't wait to hear when your book will be available...I still love paper books and with all your beautiful sketches/paintings it will be a winner!
P.S. Seeing your surname, I'll ask if you are part Italian.

Thanks so much for the nice words! I'm with you, especially for imagery, I prefer paper books. Although everything gets a Kindle version nowadays as well…

I was born and live in the USA, but I'm also an Italian citizen through my ancestry. My family is from Lucca. My parents did not speak Italian, so, unfortunately, I do not. My grandfather did, but he never spoke that language with us.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I was born and live in the USA, but I'm also an Italian citizen through my ancestry. My family is from Lucca. My parents did not speak Italian, so, unfortunately, I do not. My grandfather did, but he never spoke that language with us.

Thank you for these details. I started my Via Francigena last fall in Lucca; such a beautiful city!
I am half Italian on my father's side. His parents came to the US from Sicily for a better life and they lived in an all Italian neighborhood, so their English left a lot to be desired and I never understood them very well. My father never spoke Italian except when we visited his parents and he was definitely fluent. I regret never having him teach me anything. My maiden name was Fontana.
I hope you don't mind that I got sidetracked...