A personal account from the Camino de Invierno pt 1

[gollygolly]

The personal challenges of putting together this report a little over 16 weeks after commencing the Camino ! Memory is deceptive, and my hand written notes are so akin to the random wondering of a slightly inebriated spider, that I scratch my head in wonder as I try and decipher what I wrote at the time. There is some data missing, but that which is included is there only for reference. There are many who may walk this Camino in less time, though for me I wish that we had had at least one additional day to walk this.

As a pre-amble, this was a Camino for which there was a surprising amount of information available on-line. I write surprising, because this is certainly the Camino Less Travelled as well as the Camino Least Known. Even at the Pligrims Office at Santiago de Compestella our declaration that we had walked the 'Camino de Invierno' was met with a blank response of "donde ?". The statistics of pilgrim arrivals at Santiago in 2015 reveal that a total of 210 completed the Camino de Invierno. Yes, in the whole year, a total of only 210 pilgrims were recorded as having officially completed the Camino de Invierno. Out of a total of 262459 recorded as having completed a Camino. 210 out of 262459 is 0.08% of all pilgrim arrivals. So, I believe that I can fairly write that the Camino de Invierno is the Camino Less Travelled. Now to confuse the issue a tad more, the Camino de Invierno seems also to be known as the Camiño Real, but for us, this will always be the Camino de Invierno, although we walked this in summer.

 

[gollygolly]

Here is the continuation of this Camino


Day 9 : Chantada to Rodeiro
Thursday 30th June - started walking at 8:00am arrival at 4:40pm
Recorded distance 30.90kms / 42312 steps walked / 93 floors climbed
Over the whole day 35.29kms / 49360 steps walked / 97 floors climbed
While it became hotter as the day advanced, this was a beautiful day for walking in some beautiful open countryside. The exit out of Chantada was well indicated, and having started with some exceedingly good croissants and coffee at Panadería Ascensión, just round the corner from the hotel, we were in good spirit. The croissants were so good that it was a struggle to decide whether to stay and have another croissant or whether to set off. The sensible self took control, and off we set. There were no deer today, but we did see some majestic raptors, especially in the open fields before we arrived at Penasillás. This small and attractive settlement we were told has 18 residents, and a small bar ! The bar, Cantina O Peto, opened for us, and this time it was coffee with magdalenas that fortified us before continuing the walk which ascended and passed through countryside abundant with yellow heather. It was a beautiful walk, and we made the slight diversion required to see the Santurario da Nosa Señora do Faro (Erimita), where there were quite stunning 360º degree views over a great distance. Sadly, the Ermita was closed, so without seeing within we continued, walking the route alongside the electric turbines, the immense sails gently turning and whirling in the slight breeze. We stopped for a break at a rather dramatic mojón that was a commemoration by the Concello de Rodeiro of the Camiño de Invierno, though why it was here, in the middle of no-where, I am not sure. From here the descent was more marked, and then we had another 'gift' of the Camino. This was arriving at El Pazo de Camba, a quite substantial private property closed to the public, and where attached and forming part of the property is a small chapel - San Xoán de Camba - which was open and being cleaned and prepared, so we were told, for the first baptism to be celebrated there for over 25 years. While quite small, the inside has a beautiful carved alter piece, and it felt a true blessing to have been passing and have had the opportunity to see the interior. After leaving the Pazo behind us there were more then a few times where there were doubts as to where the Camino was heading, and we discovered that there is an environmental disaster unfolding, with the construction having commenced of a sealed road that will head out of Rodeiro cutting through this stunning countryside. I am not sure if it is because of these works that waymarkers or anything indicating the Camino had possibly been removed. I am hoping that the works will not create too great a cut through this wonderful countryside. Passing a quite unusual stone mojón, with an elaborately carved 'concha' on it, we arrived at Rodeiro and settled in to our accommodation at Pensión O Guerra, which is conveniently located and also has a restaurant with quite reasonable food that came in substantial portions. The town of Rodeiro seemed relatively active, though it was too late in the day to see inside the building that today is the Ayuntamiento - Concello Rodeiro, and which is apparently worth a visit. Still, very close by there is a pleasant park with the Río de Rodeiro running through it, as well as the local church which was worth the walk to see, at least from the outside, as it was closed. In our walk around the town we came across a heaped pile of stones with yellow arrows on them. Removed from the Camino or never having placed on the Camino in the first place we do not know, but they are of little use where they now lie.

Day 10 : Rodeiro to Lalín
Friday 1st July - started walking at 8:10am arrival at 1:40pm
Recorded distance 25.04kms / 32856 steps walked / 54 floors climbed
Over the whole day 26.50kms / 35124 steps walked / 57 floors climbed
Leaving Rodeiro and walking on the road for a couple of kms, the Camino then headed away from the tarmac and into some stunning countryside, and like sections of the path a couple of days previous, we were walking through some quite muddy sections. This was a beautiful mornings walk, which passed the quite astonishing 'monument' that had been erected, as far I could discern, in homage to King Juan Carlos. Lalín was a planned overnight stop, as we had memories of staying at the albergue at A Laxe in 2015, when it was seriously plagued by quite vicious mosquitoes, and really wanted to avoid staying at that albergue. So, we were going to stop overnight in Lalín and after passing the Romanesque Monasterio de Lalín de Arriba, which looked more like a church, but was anyway closed, we headed to where we had booked to stay, the Hotel El Palacio. What made Lalín memorable for us was the exceptional lunch that we had at Restaurante Cabanas, who prepared us a 'Menu Peregrino', when none usually exists. Near the hotel, and the continuation on the Camino, is a very impressive art nouveau monument to a pioneer Spanish aviator, Joaquín Loriga.

Day 11 : Lalín to A Bandeira
Saturday 2nd July - started walking at 7:45am arrival at 2:26pm
Recorded distance 27.00kms / 36093 steps walked / 53 floors climbed
Over the whole day 29.36kms / 39767 steps walked / 53 floors climbed
An easy start to the day, then slightly confused as we walked through an industrial estate on the outskirts of Lalín that felt very unlike the Camino, before the descent to where we had stayed the previous year, the Albergue at A Laxe. This descent was to bring us from the direction 'behind' the Albergue, so it was something of a surprise to see it 'emerge' from a different view to that we knew, but nonetheless the walk from now on was along a Camino that we had previously trodden in the final days of our walking the Camino Sanabrés. Shortly after we stopped at the bar/cafe/restaurant 'María Jose' for my caffeine intake, and then onwards, passing one again over the awe-inspiring Puente Taboada, though this time it was not raining. At the top of the climb, just before entering Silleda, we briefly stopped at Bar Gerardo, which had only been open a few weeks when we passed and had shelter from the rain in 2015, and which now seems to have thrived and become a fixture on this stretch of Camino. As in the previous years walk, we paused at the Iglesia de Santiago de Taboada; so pleasing to find the Church open. Passed through Silleda and on to Bandeira, where we stayed at the 'tin-can' Albergue de Peregrinos. This must have been one of my masochistic decisions, as this albergue represents so much that I dislike ; a scarringly ugly modern building that is removed from and has no historic connection with the actual Camino. And we were the only ones staying here - just the two of us. The redeeming feature is the tremendous cloth washing and drying facilities, so I was able to ensure that all of our clothes were cleaned and with the heat of the day, these quickly dried. The town was having something of a fiesta on this day, and as we walked through the town the local priest was stood on the back of an old truck giving a blessing / benediction with holy water being splashed liberally across the passing traffic. Any hope for a peaceful nights sleep were dispelled by the music being played in the main square that stopped at 5 the next morning.

Day 12 : A Bandeira to Outeiro
Sunday 3rd July - started walking at 8:19am arrival at 2:20pm
Recorded distance 19.19kms / 26217 steps walked / 38 floors climbed
Over the whole day 19.5kms / 26669 steps walked / 38 floors climbed
As with much of the previous days walk, today was along Camino that we had walked the previous year. This year we stopped for coffee at the private albergue a few kms beyond A Bandeira, Casa Leiras 1866, and talked with Andrea, who along with his wife Cristina and their children have made this place their home and an albergue. Continuing, we came to the descent to Pont Ulla, where we went for the morning service at the Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena before proceeding to the Dia supermarket and stocking up with provisions before the climb up and the walk to the Albergue at Outeiro (also, I believe known to some as the Albergue de Vedra). Unlike the previous year, which was in the rain, today the walk was in warmth, though mercifully there are the many trees to give some shelter from the direct sun. Within the woods we made a brief stop relaxing in an abandoned arm-chair, which while a disgrace being dumped in the middle of nature, made for a good photo opportunity. Arriving at the albergue we were to finally begin meeting other peregrinos, though all had either commenced on the Camino de Plata or the Sanabrés. During the late afternoon we went and explored the area, as not far away is the Pazo de Galegos, an alternative if more expensive place to stay then the albergue.

Day 13 : Outeiro to Santiago de Compestella
Monday 4th July - started walking at 5.34am arrival at am
Over the whole day 28.3kms / 38633 steps walked / 84 floors climbed
I do know that while we started early, with other peregrinos getting up very early so as to complete the last stretch to Santiago, that we were the last to leave the Albergue. That stated, we somehow had the advantage of both knowing this stretch as well as having a quite good walking pace, so we found ourselves passing most of those who had left before us. Our arrival in Santiago was relatively early, and probably because of that, it was a surprise to find such a short queue at the new Camino office. Here we were met with a baffled look by the young man at the desk when he asked us which Camino we had walked, and we responded "Camino de Invierno" ; he had never heard of it and had to go and consult with someone else about this Camino.

=======

Overall personal summary ! This is probably not a Camino for someone who has not walked a Camino before, nor for someone who before commencing has not made defined destinations for each day, and accordingly made plans for accommodation along the way, at least in respect of some of the places. With that caveat, it is a stunningly beautiful Camino, generally well marked, which in places is quite demanding, but which is hugely rewarding, even if other peregrinos are about as rare a 5 leaf clover. I was surprised at how tough some of the sections are, but that could be because there was little personal physical preparation before commencing. Or, it could be that I'm simply getting older !

 

[C clearly]

Thanks for this detailed report. It definitely looks like a good route to try!

I am curious if you posted anywhere about Days 1 to 8. I don't see it.

 

[KinkyOne]

Here is the continuation of this Camino


Day 9 : Chantada to Rodeiro
Thursday 30th June - started walking at 8:00am arrival at 4:40pm
Recorded distance 30.90kms / 42312 steps walked / 93 floors climbed
Over the whole day 35.29kms / 49360 steps walked / 97 floors climbed
While it became hotter as the day advanced, this was a beautiful day for walking in some beautiful open countryside. The exit out of Chantada was well indicated, and having started with some exceedingly good croissants and coffee at Panadería Ascensión, just round the corner from the hotel, we were in good spirit. The croissants were so good that it was a struggle to decide whether to stay and have another croissant or whether to set off. The sensible self took control, and off we set. There were no deer today, but we did see some majestic raptors, especially in the open fields before we arrived at Penasillás. This small and attractive settlement we were told has 18 residents, and a small bar ! The bar, Cantina O Peto, opened for us, and this time it was coffee with magdalenas that fortified us before continuing the walk which ascended and passed through countryside abundant with yellow heather. It was a beautiful walk, and we made the slight diversion required to see the Santurario da Nosa Señora do Faro (Erimita), where there were quite stunning 360º degree views over a great distance. Sadly, the Ermita was closed, so without seeing within we continued, walking the route alongside the electric turbines, the immense sails gently turning and whirling in the slight breeze. We stopped for a break at a rather dramatic mojón that was a commemoration by the Concello de Rodeiro of the Camiño de Invierno, though why it was here, in the middle of no-where, I am not sure. From here the descent was more marked, and then we had another 'gift' of the Camino. This was arriving at El Pazo de Camba, a quite substantial private property closed to the public, and where attached and forming part of the property is a small chapel - San Xoán de Camba - which was open and being cleaned and prepared, so we were told, for the first baptism to be celebrated there for over 25 years. While quite small, the inside has a beautiful carved alter piece, and it felt a true blessing to have been passing and have had the opportunity to see the interior. After leaving the Pazo behind us there were more then a few times where there were doubts as to where the Camino was heading, and we discovered that there is an environmental disaster unfolding, with the construction having commenced of a sealed road that will head out of Rodeiro cutting through this stunning countryside. I am not sure if it is because of these works that waymarkers or anything indicating the Camino had possibly been removed. I am hoping that the works will not create too great a cut through this wonderful countryside. Passing a quite unusual stone mojón, with an elaborately carved 'concha' on it, we arrived at Rodeiro and settled in to our accommodation at Pensión O Guerra, which is conveniently located and also has a restaurant with quite reasonable food that came in substantial portions. The town of Rodeiro seemed relatively active, though it was too late in the day to see inside the building that today is the Ayuntamiento - Concello Rodeiro, and which is apparently worth a visit. Still, very close by there is a pleasant park with the Río de Rodeiro running through it, as well as the local church which was worth the walk to see, at least from the outside, as it was closed. In our walk around the town we came across a heaped pile of stones with yellow arrows on them. Removed from the Camino or never having placed on the Camino in the first place we do not know, but they are of little use where they now lie.

Day 10 : Rodeiro to Lalín
Friday 1st July - started walking at 8:10am arrival at 1:40pm
Recorded distance 25.04kms / 32856 steps walked / 54 floors climbed
Over the whole day 26.50kms / 35124 steps walked / 57 floors climbed
Leaving Rodeiro and walking on the road for a couple of kms, the Camino then headed away from the tarmac and into some stunning countryside, and like sections of the path a couple of days previous, we were walking through some quite muddy sections. This was a beautiful mornings walk, which passed the quite astonishing 'monument' that had been erected, as far I could discern, in homage to King Juan Carlos. Lalín was a planned overnight stop, as we had memories of staying at the albergue at A Laxe in 2015, when it was seriously plagued by quite vicious mosquitoes, and really wanted to avoid staying at that albergue. So, we were going to stop overnight in Lalín and after passing the Romanesque Monasterio de Lalín de Arriba, which looked more like a church, but was anyway closed, we headed to where we had booked to stay, the Hotel El Palacio. What made Lalín memorable for us was the exceptional lunch that we had at Restaurante Cabanas, who prepared us a 'Menu Peregrino', when none usually exists. Near the hotel, and the continuation on the Camino, is a very impressive art nouveau monument to a pioneer Spanish aviator, Joaquín Loriga.

Day 11 : Lalín to A Bandeira
Saturday 2nd July - started walking at 7:45am arrival at 2:26pm
Recorded distance 27.00kms / 36093 steps walked / 53 floors climbed
Over the whole day 29.36kms / 39767 steps walked / 53 floors climbed
An easy start to the day, then slightly confused as we walked through an industrial estate on the outskirts of Lalín that felt very unlike the Camino, before the descent to where we had stayed the previous year, the Albergue at A Laxe. This descent was to bring us from the direction 'behind' the Albergue, so it was something of a surprise to see it 'emerge' from a different view to that we knew, but nonetheless the walk from now on was along a Camino that we had previously trodden in the final days of our walking the Camino Sanabrés. Shortly after we stopped at the bar/cafe/restaurant 'María Jose' for my caffeine intake, and then onwards, passing one again over the awe-inspiring Puente Taboada, though this time it was not raining. At the top of the climb, just before entering Silleda, we briefly stopped at Bar Gerardo, which had only been open a few weeks when we passed and had shelter from the rain in 2015, and which now seems to have thrived and become a fixture on this stretch of Camino. As in the previous years walk, we paused at the Iglesia de Santiago de Taboada; so pleasing to find the Church open. Passed through Silleda and on to Bandeira, where we stayed at the 'tin-can' Albergue de Peregrinos. This must have been one of my masochistic decisions, as this albergue represents so much that I dislike ; a scarringly ugly modern building that is removed from and has no historic connection with the actual Camino. And we were the only ones staying here - just the two of us. The redeeming feature is the tremendous cloth washing and drying facilities, so I was able to ensure that all of our clothes were cleaned and with the heat of the day, these quickly dried. The town was having something of a fiesta on this day, and as we walked through the town the local priest was stood on the back of an old truck giving a blessing / benediction with holy water being splashed liberally across the passing traffic. Any hope for a peaceful nights sleep were dispelled by the music being played in the main square that stopped at 5 the next morning.

Day 12 : A Bandeira to Outeiro
Sunday 3rd July - started walking at 8:19am arrival at 2:20pm
Recorded distance 19.19kms / 26217 steps walked / 38 floors climbed
Over the whole day 19.5kms / 26669 steps walked / 38 floors climbed
As with much of the previous days walk, today was along Camino that we had walked the previous year. This year we stopped for coffee at the private albergue a few kms beyond A Bandeira, Casa Leiras 1866, and talked with Andrea, who along with his wife Cristina and their children have made this place their home and an albergue. Continuing, we came to the descent to Pont Ulla, where we went for the morning service at the Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena before proceeding to the Dia supermarket and stocking up with provisions before the climb up and the walk to the Albergue at Outeiro (also, I believe known to some as the Albergue de Vedra). Unlike the previous year, which was in the rain, today the walk was in warmth, though mercifully there are the many trees to give some shelter from the direct sun. Within the woods we made a brief stop relaxing in an abandoned arm-chair, which while a disgrace being dumped in the middle of nature, made for a good photo opportunity. Arriving at the albergue we were to finally begin meeting other peregrinos, though all had either commenced on the Camino de Plata or the Sanabrés. During the late afternoon we went and explored the area, as not far away is the Pazo de Galegos, an alternative if more expensive place to stay then the albergue.

Day 13 : Outeiro to Santiago de Compestella
Monday 4th July - started walking at 5.34am arrival at am
Over the whole day 28.3kms / 38633 steps walked / 84 floors climbed
I do know that while we started early, with other peregrinos getting up very early so as to complete the last stretch to Santiago, that we were the last to leave the Albergue. That stated, we somehow had the advantage of both knowing this stretch as well as having a quite good walking pace, so we found ourselves passing most of those who had left before us. Our arrival in Santiago was relatively early, and probably because of that, it was a surprise to find such a short queue at the new Camino office. Here we were met with a baffled look by the young man at the desk when he asked us which Camino we had walked, and we responded "Camino de Invierno" ; he had never heard of it and had to go and consult with someone else about this Camino.

=======

Overall personal summary ! This is probably not a Camino for someone who has not walked a Camino before, nor for someone who before commencing has not made defined destinations for each day, and accordingly made plans for accommodation along the way, at least in respect of some of the places. With that caveat, it is a stunningly beautiful Camino, generally well marked, which in places is quite demanding, but which is hugely rewarding, even if other peregrinos are about as rare a 5 leaf clover. I was surprised at how tough some of the sections are, but that could be because there was little personal physical preparation before commencing. Or, it could be that I'm simply getting older !

I remember that in 2014 it looked like the road works have just started between Fervenza and Rodeiro (last few kms). Many times I stayed on main tarmac road (LU-P-1809) where obviously construction sites cut in the "official" Camino. Not much traffic on that road though. And when I came to Rodeiro I turned sharp left over the Rio and soon was in the center by the municipal swimming pool. Although I don't know if that's official way because I can't remember any markers for turning left and over the river.

 

[gollygolly]

My apologies !! This 'report' was somehow there one minute, and then gone the next, so am now going to paste this into three separate parts


The personal challenges of putting together this report a little over 16 weeks after commencing the Camino ! Memory is deceptive, and my hand written notes are so akin to the random wondering of a slightly inebriated spider, that I scratch my head in wonder as I try and decipher what I wrote at the time.

As a pre-amble, this was a Camino for which there was a surprising amount of information available on-line. I write surprising, because this is certainly the Camino Less Travelled as well as the Camino Least Known. Even at the Pligrims Office at Santiago de Compestella our declaration that we had walked the 'Camino de Invierno' was met with a blank response of "donde ?". The statistics of pilgrim arrivals at Santiago in 2015 reveal that a total of 210 completed the Camino de Invierno. Yes, in the whole year, a total of only 210 pilgrims were recorded as having officially completed the Camino de Invierno. Out of a total of 262459 recorded as having completed a Camino. 210 out of 262459 is 0.08% of all pilgrim arrivals. So, I believe that I can fairly write that the Camino de Invierno is the Camino Less Travelled. Now to confuse the issue a tad more, the Camino de Invierno seems also to be known as the Camiño Real, but for us, this will always be the Camino de Invierno, although we walked this in summer.

I can only speculate why this Camino is so infrequently walked, as it is a Camino that is stunning in its beauty, full of surprises and the occasional challenging up and down. The lack of 'infrastructure' is the declared basis for the lack of attention that this Camino receives, but there are definitely places to stay at, even if the cost is going to be higher then that at many 'albergues'. It is, in my opinion, so worth the extra cost, as there is so much to experience and see along the way.

To begin at the beginning, which was the departure on an overnight train from Barcelona Sants station. Our own little compartment with fold down beds was totally adequate for our needs, and of course my young daughter of 11 years was thrilled to be on a train where she was going to sleep. And have a small television in the compartment. And our own little recess with a shower. Nothing grand, but all very exciting in terms of the experience. Leaving at 20.20 on the evening, we were stepping out at the station in Ponferrada at a little after 7 the next morning, slightly later then scheduled.

We meandered up from the train station to the Castle that dominates Ponferrada, the intention being to obtain our first 'sello' at the Basilica de la Encina that is close to the Castle. With the Basilica closed, we headed to the Albergue De Peregrinos San Nicolás De Flue for the first sello in the credencial. The hospitalero was delighted when he asked Pia her age and was almost ecstatic when he learnt that we were going to be walking the Camino de Invierno. A true enthusiast of the Camino !

 

[gollygolly]

So, to the actual walk :

Day 1: Ponferrada to Las Médulas
Wednesday 22 June - started walking at 7:46am arrival 4:40pm
Recorded distance 24.13kms / 37044 steps walked / 43 floors climbed
over the whole day 28.89kms / 44445 steps / 46 floors
Arrival in Ponferrada, and within 90 minutes we were leaving the town, and from what little that we saw, there was not much to recommend a longer stay. As we headed down and away from the routinely walked Camino Francais, I turned and saw another pilgrim following. I reversed and enquired if he was walking the Camino de Santiago. "Yes" was the reply. On which route I asked. "The Camino de Santiago" came back the response. Yes, but which one. A slightly perplexed look came across the young mans face, who said that he had seen us and simply followed, so I asked if he was walking the Camino Francais or the Camino de Invierno. He had not heard of the Camino de Invierno, and while I suggested that it could be interesting for him, it was going to be a longer walk. That was the tipping point, and he was soon turning on his tail and heading back along the direction from where he had come from. And that was to be the only peregrino we were going to see until we were in the final stretch, where the Camino de Invierno joins with the Camino Sanabrés / Mozarabe. This first day of our walk had Las Médulas as our destination, and there was little risk of losing the path, which was very well indicated. As the views back towards Ponferrada diminished and the sun grew stronger, we began to feel the warmth of the overhead sun. We passed through Toral de Merayo, slightly too early to have a coffee at the bar there. What time do they wake in this village that the bar was not yet open at a little after 9 in the morning ! Leaving Toral de Merayo behind us we passed along a dramatic path cut through the hillside, a path that I imagine dates back to the Roman times. It was then through terrain planted with vines, and we had the first major surprise as we startled 3 young deer, who quickly took themselves off and hid in the protection of nature. Coming across the deer was a total and very welcome surprise. We had quite an arduous climb up to the point where the choice exists to take a deviation and visit the Castillo de Cornatel or to continue on the Camino, and my daughter emphatically insisted that she was not going to make the further climb to see a castle that might be closed. So, with that choice closed, we began the 'descent' to Borrenes, where we were disappointed to find that the bar was closed and the hopes for a coffee were dashed. So we continued to Las Médulas, which was the next disappointment. Las Médulas is an amazing location, but the facilities are really second rate at best. We stayed at Pension Aira Do Trigo - also known as Casa Socorro - and cannot recommend. There are some alternatives, and were we to return it would be to stay at the nearby Casa Rural Agoga, where we had supper that evening. Overall, the impression that I had was that very few visitors stay at Las Médulas, and the many that visit for a part of a day are presented with a very average quality offering in the accommodation and restaurants located there. The extraordinary setting of Las Médulas, with the rich colours of the soil and the abundance of stunning chestnut trees merit, in my opinion, something of a higher standard then we encountered.

Day 2: Las Médulas to Puente de Domingo Flórez
Thursday 23rd June - started walking from Las Médulas at 11:08am arrival 1:28pm
Recorded distance 15.52kms (6.77kms of which were within Las Médulas) / 23310 steps walked /
over the whole day 19.8kms / 29671 steps / 80 floors
We woke reasonably early, and leaving our packs behind, ventured off to look over as much as we could of the Las Médulas area, which is nothing short of stunning, especially as we walked in the eerie early morning mist. The views from the Mirador ce Orellán are sensational. Having walked and seen a good part of Las Médulas, we returned to pick up our backpacks and head off for the relatively short walk to Puente de Domingo Flórez. With such a lovely name, I had imagined that it would be lovely place, though regrettably much of the construction of recent times is very utilitarian. We stayed at the very friendly Hotel La Torre, who offer a very good value 26€ price for peregrinos (double occupation room), and a very, very adequate lunch menu. We looked around the town and took advantage of the ATM before having an ice-cream from the very peregrino friendly Bar El Cruce and stocked up with 'provisions' at the Dia supermarket, conveniently located close to the hotel.


Day 3: Puente de Domingo Flórez to O Barco de Valdeorras
Friday 24th June - started walking at 07:31am arrival 1:15pm
Recorded distance 15.52kms (6.77kms of which were within Las Médulas) / 23310 steps walked /
over the whole day 28.19kms / 44445 steps / 46 floors
A reasonable coffee and croissant at the bar of the hotel before our exit, and an easy to follow walk across the bridge over the Rio Sil and a gentle rise to the path that will follow the Rio Sil. The beauty of where we were walking was only marred by my mobile continually ringing with folk calling with their reaction to the outcome of the Brexit referendum. Passing through Sobradelo, we avoided descending from our heightened position and so missed seeing the town centre and continued ahead, passing through the village of Éntoma, where some of the narrow streets had been decorated with flowers and coloured sand in celebration of the fiesta de San Juan. Within this small settlement there is a quite striking metal 'sculpture' made out of agricultural hoes, which seems dedicated to the Camino and which bids 'Buen Camino' to the passer-by. Very close to this was a bar, but, I understood that because of the fiesta in Éntoma , it was closed. Leaving the village we headed along a gentle path that descended and then ascended to Puente de Domingo Flórez where, this being the day of San Juan, much was closed. We headed to where we were staying, the Pensión Aurum, which is highly recommended, very comfortable, quiet and clean and just a few metres from the Camino. Our search for lunch resulted in a slightly disappointing meal, as our sought out places were either closed or full. The walk along the 'promenade' of the river in O Barco de Valdeorras is a delight, both for the location as well as for watching the locals.

Day 4: O Barco de Valdeorras to A Rúa de Valdeorras
Saturday 25th June - started walking at 7:45am arrival 11:34am
Recorded distance 13.19kms / 19759 steps walked / 11 floors climbed
over the whole day 20.65kms / 30962 steps / 18 floors
This was an intentionally short day, as the plan was to stay with Asunción Arias (Asún) in A Rúa de Valdeorras at her private Albergue Casa de Solaina. A rich and interesting source of knowledge of the Camino de Invierno, both Asún and her mother make great efforts to make peregrinos feel at home. I found A Rúa de Valdeorras a very pleasant stop, and we had a very good lunch as well as supper at the very unpretentious but very friendly Mesón O Toño, which in my opinion is worth heading to for a more than adequate fuel stop.

Day 5 : A Rúa de Valdeorras to Quiroga
Sunday 26th June - started walking at 7:48am arrival at 4:06pm
Recorded distance 28.19kms / 41032 steps walked / 104 floors climbed
Over the whole day 32.9kms / 48297 steps / 108 floors
It was a slightly later then planned start to our walking, as Asún undertook and recorded an 'interview' with my daughter about her experiences walking various Caminos, recording this for later broadcast on local radio. At this hour of the day it made reflect on how it must be when being confronted by James Naughtie or John Humphrys that early in the morning. With this over, and with the advance knowledge of there being no bars or provisions between A Rúa de Valdeorras and Quiroga, we had suitably stocked up before our departure. This would be the day that we would cross over from the Province of Ourense and enter the Province of Lugo, an imaginary line on the map that was prominently marked in the middle of what seemed to be the middle of nowhere, on a very, very quiet mountain route. Along this route there are rather mysteriously dotted all forms of shapes that had been cut from timber or ply-board, painted and then placed incongruously within the pine trees. Parrots, toucans, masks, diametric shapes and other images had all been placed, at some personal risk to whoever who had placed these, along with assorted assembled stones that had also been painted in various garish colours and placed on the occasional prominitory. Quite strange, as while the artistic merit was not that high the location of these is very attention grabbing, though the number of people who would see these artistic contributions on the Camino would be very few. Along the way we came across an offering of organic cherries and berries along with an honesty box and a small notice requesting, in Spanish, that peregrinos 'If you like take what you want'. We suitably obliged and made a contribution, delighted at what felt was a small recognition that this was a Camino, even if there was an absence of peregrinos. After a few more kilomtres we made the ascent to the once active town of Montefurado, where we were fortunate to be able to see inside the large Iglesia de San Miguel de Montefurado, before ensuring that we had our water bottles filled and continued walking up and away from this nearly abandoned town with many of its vacant buildings collapsing. Very beautiful walk over the hills, much of the walk on tarmac road that was mercifully deserted of traffic. After descending back to river level we came to a very welcome and unexpected break at the camping ground/cabins of Apartamentos O Muíño, nestled below the viaduct at Soldón. Here we had a very inexpensive refreshment break of delicious tortilla and enjoyed sitting in the shade and having a respite from the sun, while looking at the life and the water passing in the river at our side. I suspect that this place is only open for the summer season, but there is also accommodation available, so this might be a possible overnight stop. From here there were the first doubts as to the route of the Camino, which seemed to offer alternative possibilities, and we chose to stay as close as possible to the river. We passed through some very small - hamlet seemed to exaggerate their size - places, including making the very slight deviation to see the remains of the Castle / hospital that was once run for the benefit of peregrinos by the Order of St John of Jerusalem. From here the wonderful walk continued along a path that felt little had changed since The Order of St John of Jerusalem had been in operation several hundred years previous. After a beautiful days walk, even with the heat, Quiroga was a disappointment. This was mostly because of the Albergue, which I had hoped would not be occupied on a Sunday, but which was mobbed by what I perceived to be 2 quite large groups of very noisy youngsters, who seemingly attempted to out-compete each other in a make-the-most-noise competition that had no limit in either the level of noise or the duration. While we had our own bedroom - with its own bathroom ! - this Albergue is not peregrino specific and afforded no peace for practically the whole night. We ate adequately at A Taberna, with its friendly staff.

 

[gollygolly]

Day 7 : A Pobra de Brollón to Monforte de Lemos
Tuesday 28th June - started walking at 8:35am arrival at 12:20pm
Recorded distance 16.49kms / 23965 steps walked / 45 floors climbed
Over the whole day 22.06kms / 32327 steps walked / 72 floors climbed
After recent very heavy rains this was a day of walking through some quite muddy stretches, most of these stretches being undemanding and pleasant to walk, especially as it was a relatively cool day. Once again we had the surprise of startling deer. The final section, with Monforte de Lemos looming on the horizon, was visually a slight disappointment, with some quite hideous development marring the historic town. Our destination for the day was the Parador that has the dominant position above the town, though requires a little effort to walk up to. The effort was well worth it, as despite looking quite bedraggled, we were given a very, very warm welcome and a fantastic room in the older part of the Parador. We took advantage of our time in Monforte de Lemos to visit the Colegio de los Escolapios and see this extraordinary complex, which includes the stunning and gravity defying staircase, which at over 400 years of age is a true wonder. It was a reminder of the equally wondrous and very similar staircase at Monasterio de Oseiro, where we stayed when walking the Camino Sanabrés the previous year.

Day 8 : Monforte de Lemos to Chantada
Wednesday 29th June - started walking at 8:47am arrival at 6:34pm
Recorded distance 32.24kms / 45179 steps walked / 98 floors climbed
Over the whole day 34.48kms / 51693 steps walked / 98 floors climbed
A relatively slow start to walking this day, as we enjoyed the tremendous buffet breakfast that the Parador offers. Suitably sated, we descended from the hilltop location of the Parador, crossed the Roman bridge and negotiated our way out of the town, a little hesitant at first as we either missed the way-marking or had become accustomed to it being so prominent up to now. We passed a wonderful stone figure of Santiago as we left Montforte. The route today began to present a slight adventure as we had to walk through quite thick vegetation, with brambles and stinging nettles slowing us down as well as the need to negotiate some muddy sections and babbling springs along the path. We briefly stopped to meet with Penelope Anderton at her beautifully located and creatively restored rural 'complex' in Castrotañe. I fully appreciated how the amazing views from this quite isolated spot would have attracted her to settle here, and hope that if the Camino de Invierno ever attracts more peregrinos that she will benefit from some of these staying with her. It would have been our pleasure to have stayed here, but our destination for today of Chantada beckoned, so we left and continued up the beautifully shaded path before returning to walking on very quiet road alternating with path that was itself deviating because of springs, requiring careful negotiation. While the way marking remained uncertain in places, there were also a few moments of hesitation for other dilemmas. This was at a crossroads, with the dilemma of many signs and do we turn left and deviate from the route to go to the Torre Vilariño. The sign at the crossroads stated Menu del Peregrino - but would it be open, would lunch be a possibility, would it be worth the deviation ? Do we have the time ? This was a serious dilemma, especially with Pia experiencing hunger. Under protest, the decision was to ignore the temptation of the Torre Vilariño and continue the Camino, as the day was warming up and I knew that we had a a few challenges ahead with the walk down and then up from the Río Miño. More beautiful walking, with stretches on very quiet road, we stopped briefly at the Church of San Pelayo just above Diomondi, which was regrettably closed. Retracing the few steps we had taken to see this Church, we began the very demanding but stunning descent to Belesar, lying beside the Río Miño. Once more there were moments that had us 'transported' back in time, as there are sections of the path that are probably dating back to the Romans. Once we arrived at river level, we turned right and headed to the Abaceria o Batuxo, a restaurant / bar beautifully located right on the Río Miño. We contemplated waiting so as to take the catamaran boat that makes excursions from this point, but the timing was such that were we to make the boat trip we would then be arriving at Chantada at a very late hour. So we enjoyed the views while sat at the restaurant by the Río Miño with cold drinks and patatas bravas. A luxurious break before returning to the Camino and crossing the bridge and the walk up the valley the other side of where we had descended not long before. A tough walk is the best way to describe this, especially as it was now quite hot, with little escape from the sun. Once again, we were walking along tracks that were first walked on by Romans, and the sense of sharing that history is quite powerful. The beauty of the steep hillsides with the vines of the Ribeira Sacra has to be experienced, and the beauty of the setting perhaps assists in making this such a lovely wine. With our climb up nearly completed, the views back down to the Río Miño were stunning, and where we had sat earlier at Abaceria o Batuxo was now appearing as a relatively small 'blob' by the river deep in the valley below. With some relief after what had been a long, hot and quite tough day, we arrived at Chantada, with its very attractive historic centre. We had reserved accommodation at the allegedly peregrino friendly Hotel Mogay, though I personally was not taken by the place, which for me was quite charmless. We did not have much luck with eating, as recommended restaurants were all closed, but I very much liked the historic centre, and feel that this is a town that potentially could be key to increasing the number walking the Camino de Invierno, were a good albergue to be opened here. If we had had one 'extra' day for walking this Camino, I would have planned this day so that we stopped overnight at Torre Vilariño and the next day had time to take the boat excursion on the Río Miño. Next time !

Day 9 : Chantada to Rodeiro
Thursday 30th June - started walking at 8:00am arrival at 4:40pm
Recorded distance 30.90kms / 42312 steps walked / 93 floors climbed
Over the whole day 35.29kms / 49360 steps walked / 97 floors climbed
While it became hotter as the day advanced, this was a beautiful day for walking in some beautiful open countryside. The exit out of Chantada was well indicated, and having started with some exceedingly good croissants and coffee at Panadería Ascensión, just round the corner from the hotel, we were in good spirit. The croissants were so good that it was a struggle to decide whether to stay and have another croissant or whether to set off. The sensible self took control, and off we set. There were no deer today, but we did see some majestic raptors, especially in the open fields before we arrived at Penasillás. This small and attractive settlement we were told has 18 residents, and a small bar ! The bar, Cantina O Peto, opened for us, and this time it was coffee with magdalenas that fortified us before continuing the walk which ascended and passed through countryside abundant with yellow heather. It was a beautiful walk, and we made the slight diversion required to see the Santurario da Nosa Señora do Faro (Erimita), where there were quite stunning 360º degree views over a great distance. Sadly, the Ermita was closed, so without seeing within we continued, walking the route alongside the electric turbines, the immense sails gently turning and whirling in the slight breeze. We stopped for a break at a rather dramatic mojón that was a commemoration by the Concello de Rodeiro of the Camiño de Invierno, though why it was here, in the middle of no-where, I am not sure. From here the descent was more marked, and then we had another 'gift' of the Camino. This was arriving at El Pazo de Camba, a quite substantial private property closed to the public, and where attached and forming part of the property is a small chapel - San Xoán de Camba - which was open and being cleaned and prepared, so we were told, for the first baptism to be celebrated there for over 25 years. While quite small, the inside has a beautiful carved alter piece, and it felt a true blessing to have been passing and have had the opportunity to see the interior. After leaving the Pazo behind us there were more then a few times where there were doubts as to where the Camino was heading, and we discovered that there is an environmental disaster unfolding, with the construction having commenced of a sealed road that will head out of Rodeiro cutting through this stunning countryside. I am not sure if it is because of these works that waymarkers or anything indicating the Camino had possibly been removed. I am hoping that the works will not create too great a cut through this wonderful countryside. Passing a quite unusual stone mojón, with an elaborately carved 'concha' on it, we arrived at Rodeiro and settled in to our accommodation at Pensión O Guerra, which is conveniently located and also has a restaurant with quite reasonable food that came in substantial portions. The town of Rodeiro seemed relatively active, though it was too late in the day to see inside the building that today is the Ayuntamiento - Concello Rodeiro, and which is apparently worth a visit. Still, very close by there is a pleasant park with the Río de Rodeiro running through it, as well as the local church which was worth the walk to see, at least from the outside, as it was closed. In our walk around the town we came across a heaped pile of stones with yellow arrows on them. Removed from the Camino or never having placed on the Camino in the first place we do not know, but they are of little use where they now lie.

Day 10 : Rodeiro to Lalín
Friday 1st July - started walking at 8:10am arrival at 1:40pm
Recorded distance 25.04kms / 32856 steps walked / 54 floors climbed
Over the whole day 26.50kms / 35124 steps walked / 57 floors climbed
Leaving Rodeiro and walking on the road for a couple of kms, the Camino then headed away from the tarmac and into some stunning countryside, and like sections of the path a couple of days previous, we were walking through some quite muddy sections. This was a beautiful mornings walk, which passed the quite astonishing 'monument' that had been erected, as far I could discern, in homage to King Juan Carlos. Lalín was a planned overnight stop, as we had memories of staying at the albergue at A Laxe in 2015, when it was seriously plagued by quite vicious mosquitoes, and really wanted to avoid staying at that albergue. So, we were going to stop overnight in Lalín and after passing the Romanesque Monasterio de Lalín de Arriba, which looked more like a church, but was anyway closed, we headed to where we had booked to stay, the Hotel El Palacio. What made Lalín memorable for us was the exceptional lunch that we had at Restaurante Cabanas, who prepared us a 'Menu Peregrino', when none usually exists. Near the hotel, and the continuation on the Camino, is a very impressive art nouveau monument to a pioneer Spanish aviator, Joaquín Loriga.

Day 11 : Lalín to A Bandeira
Saturday 2nd July - started walking at 7:45am arrival at 2:26pm
Recorded distance 27.00kms / 36093 steps walked / 53 floors climbed
Over the whole day 29.36kms / 39767 steps walked / 53 floors climbed
An easy start to the day, then slightly confused as we walked through an industrial estate on the outskirts of Lalín that felt very unlike the Camino, before the descent to where we had stayed the previous year, the Albergue at A Laxe. This descent was to bring us from the direction 'behind' the Albergue, so it was something of a surprise to see it 'emerge' from a different view to that we knew, but nonetheless the walk from now on was along a Camino that we had previously trodden in the final days of our walking the Camino Sanabrés. Shortly after we stopped at the bar/cafe/restaurant 'María Jose' for my caffeine intake, and then onwards, passing one again over the awe-inspiring Puente Taboada, though this time it was not raining. At the top of the climb, just before entering Silleda, we briefly stopped at Bar Gerardo, which had only been open a few weeks when we passed and had shelter from the rain in 2015, and which now seems to have thrived and become a fixture on this stretch of Camino. As in the previous years walk, we paused at the Iglesia de Santiago de Taboada; so pleasing to find the Church open. Passed through Silleda and on to Bandeira, where we stayed at the 'tin-can' Albergue de Peregrinos. This must have been one of my masochistic decisions, as this albergue represents so much that I dislike ; a scarringly ugly modern building that is removed from and has no historic connection with the actual Camino. And we were the only ones staying here - just the two of us. The redeeming feature is the tremendous cloth washing and drying facilities, so I was able to ensure that all of our clothes were cleaned and with the heat of the day, these quickly dried. The town was having something of a fiesta on this day, and as we walked through the town the local priest was stood on the back of an old truck giving a blessing / benediction with holy water being splashed liberally across the passing traffic. Any hope for a peaceful nights sleep were dispelled by the music being played in the main square that stopped at 5 the next morning.

Day 12 : A Bandeira to Outeiro
Sunday 3rd July - started walking at 8:19am arrival at 2:20pm
Recorded distance 19.19kms / 26217 steps walked / 38 floors climbed
Over the whole day 19.5kms / 26669 steps walked / 38 floors climbed
As with much of the previous days walk, today was along Camino that we had walked the previous year. This year we stopped for coffee at the private albergue a few kms beyond A Bandeira, Casa Leiras 1866, and talked with Andrea, who along with his wife Cristina and their children have made this place their home and an albergue. Continuing, we came to the descent to Pont Ulla, where we went for the morning service at the Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena before proceeding to the Dia supermarket and stocking up with provisions before the climb up and the walk to the Albergue at Outeiro (also, I believe known to some as the Albergue de Vedra). Unlike the previous year, which was in the rain, today the walk was in warmth, though mercifully there are the many trees to give some shelter from the direct sun. Within the woods we made a brief stop relaxing in an abandoned arm-chair, which while a disgrace being dumped in the middle of nature, made for a good photo opportunity. Arriving at the albergue we were to finally begin meeting other peregrinos, though all had either commenced on the Camino de Plata or the Sanabrés. During the late afternoon we went and explored the area, as not far away is the Pazo de Galegos, an alternative if more expensive place to stay then the albergue.

Day 13 : Outeiro to Santiago de Compestella
Monday 4th July - started walking at 5.34am arrival at am
Over the whole day 28.3kms / 38633 steps walked / 84 floors climbed
I do know that while we started early, with other peregrinos getting up very early so as to complete the last stretch to Santiago, that we were the last to leave the Albergue. That stated, we somehow had the advantage of both knowing this stretch as well as having a quite good walking pace, so we found ourselves passing most of those who had left before us. Our arrival in Santiago was relatively early, and probably because of that, it was a surprise to find such a short queue at the new Camino office. Here we were met with a baffled look by the young man at the desk when he asked us which Camino we had walked, and we responded "Camino de Invierno" ; he had never heard of it and had to go and consult with someone else about this Camino.

=====

Overall personal summary ! This is probably not a Camino for someone who has not walked a Camino before, nor for someone who before commencing has not made defined destinations for each day, and accordingly made plans for accommodation along the way, at least in respect of some of the places. With that caveat, it is a stunningly beautiful Camino, generally well marked, which in places is quite demanding, but which is hugely rewarding, even if other peregrinos are about as rare a 5 leaf clover. I was surprised at how tough some of the sections are, but that could be because there was little personal physical preparation before commencing. Or, it could be that I'm simply getting older !

 

[gollygolly]

It does not seem to be a successful posting, as Day 6 went walk-about !

Day 6 : Quiroga to A Pobra de Brollón
Monday 27th June - started walking at 7:38am arrival at 2:18pm
Recorded distance 24.94kms / 36116 steps walked / 64 floors climbed
Over the whole day 28.2kms / 40675 steps walked / 66 floors climbed
After what had been a challenging night, we started with fresh croissant and a couple of coffees at Bar Felix before leaving the town. The Camino that we took was by way of the bridge across the River Sil and after a few kms the small town of San Clodio, which I believe would be a very good alternative to Quiroga as an over-night destination. We stopped at the Bar Central for more coffee, before heading off back to the road before diverting and slowly going up the track that rises up from the river. Walking through very beautiful woodland, I swear that we came very close to something that we disturbed in the trees and which then made itself very scarce. We hazarded a guess that this may have been another wild deer. While we may not have seen what we disturbed, what we did see was a lot of wild strawberries. We needed no encouragement to pick and enjoy these wonderful strawberries, yet another of the many blessings along the Camino. It was another day of beautiful walking in beautiful nature, with the surprises of the wild strawberries and the beautiful bridge at Puente Barxa de Lor. Just after the bridge there was a suggested detour to a bar, but we ignored this to continue the strong ascent up the hill, before passing the small settlement of Castroncelos, where we had a couple of very agitated dogs gave pursuit. We arrived at A Pobra de Brollón in time for a very adequate lunch at the extremely friendly and highly recommended Pensión As Viñas. The laundry that we had was washed and left to dry, while we went down to the river, where I was only brave enough to enter the icy waters up to knee level, while Pia was having great fun wading from one side of the river to other.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi gollygolly, thanks so much for your posts. Lot of fun to read. I continue to be surprised at the lack of traffic. It is such s great camino. Maybe next year....

I'll go back through your posts later this year as I work in the forum guide updates. Any specific info for updates or changes you can think of now? Many thanks. Laurie

 

[gollygolly]

Hi gollygolly, thanks so much for your posts. Lot of fun to read. I continue to be surprised at the lack of traffic. It is such s great camino. Maybe next year....

I'll go back through your posts later this year as I work in the forum guide updates. Any specific info for updates or changes you can think of now? Many thanks. Laurie

Not sure if there is anything specific that I have which will add to the existing knowledge. My general observation remains an echo of your own sentiments - this is a wonderful Camino, though few are walking it. Some may regard that as a blessing, others may hold the contradictory view. It is only as I sat to write the above account, looked at images and reflected on my sparse notes that the 'good feeling' from this Camino came back to remind me of the blessings that come - at least as I sense it - from each Camino, and that the Camino de Invierno has these blessings in spades. I certainly hope that in the future there will be more peregrinos 'turning left' at Ponferrada and choosing this Camino, which in turn will lead to more infrastructure for peregrinos which will lead to more... fingers crossed for next year !

 

[peregrina2000]

17 pilgrims recorded in the Pilgrims' Office for the month of October! This continues to boggle my mind. And it's so inconsistent with my experience on the Camino Portugues from Lisbon. In 2008, there were no albergues, I met no one before Porto. But in the last seven years it has exploded! October's statistics show 307 started in Lisbon. So what can be the difference between the two routes? Why is one snowballing and one is stalling??

 

[KinkyOne]

I'm not really sure if that's an answer but I think Portugues is much more (and widely) known than very obscure Invierno even for Spaniards (in case of Invierno of course). There isn't almost no alternative in Portugal to walk to SdC different way, but you have few of them in Spain (Norte, Primitivo, Ingles). Also I'm sure many Invierno walkers are experienced pilgrims that walked many Caminos before and most of them (us) don't go to Oficina to get the Compostela once again and therefore aren't registered. Maybe stats from albergues/CRs/Hostales etc. would show different picture. Maybe just increase by 50% which is still very low number though. But nevertheless I completely agree with you and am also in awe why Invierno is so solitary for such a beautiful Camino.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Quiroga was a disappointment. This was mostly because of the Albergue, which I had hoped would not be occupied on a Sunday, but which was mobbed by what I perceived to be 2 quite large groups of very noisy youngsters, who seemingly attempted to out-compete each other in a make-the-most-noise competition that had no limit in either the level of noise or the duration. While we had our own bedroom - with its own bathroom ! - this Albergue is not peregrino specific and afforded no peace for practically the whole night.

Oh oh, I see what you mean. I had the exact same experience in Quiroga as you, and you use similar expressions as I did to describe the youngsters, ha ha. It was horrible. Reading your story makes me a bit nostalgic and I begin to think about repeating this Camino, but in that case, I'll never stay there again. I know there's at least one hostel (probably more) in that town.

/BP

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi,

Thanks for your info. I read it through and just wanted to add a few of my own experiences:

- Asún's mother was in the hospital when I was supposed to stay in the albergue in 2015 so she couldn't attend me and I had to find a hostel. I only spoke to Asún by phone but I've heard good things about her and the albergue! I understand that her mother is all right now?

- You mention a difficult path between Monforte de Lemos and Chantada, muddy and full of vegetation. I couldn't get through and had to retrocede. It's possible to follow the asphalt through the farm and join the Camino a few 100 mtrs later. (If it's the same path that I'm thinking of. )I'm amazed that you could push through!!

In Rodeiro : The pensión/restaurant O Guerra had the best food of the Camino de Invierno, in my opinion!! The lady who runs the place was really friendly, and when she had to go to the hospital to see her husband I talked with her daughter who was also interested in the Camino. Very nice people. Leaving Rodeiro the next morning it was freezing cold: I guess that's why they call it the Invierno... I put on everything I had: jacket(s), gloves, knit-cap and I still thought I would freeze to death. This lasted until 11:00 a.m. And it was July...!

/BP

 

[peregrina2000]

I have never stayed in the albergue in Quiroga. Knowing that it was a youth hostel means that the risk of large groups of kids is high. And it can make for a fun atmosphere, but a sleepless one! I have stayed twice at the Hostal Quiper right down the street, nothing fancy but fine.

On my next Invierno, I would consider walking on a few more kms, maybe just one or two, across the bridge, to the little town of San Clodio. There is a very nice (early opening) bar there, and they have a hostal connected.

INFO: Hotel Restaurante Las Vegas, Rúa do Ferrocarril, 1. Tel: 982 42 82 83 OR 982 43 51 12. Bar opens very early; nice shady garden with tables.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi gollygolly, i'm just starting to review your comments for revisions for next year's edition. I see that you are critical of the accommodation in Casa Socorro in As Médulas. I'd be interested in hearing more about what went wrong, because I stayed there last year and everything was fine. I think it's important to have opinions on both sides.

The previous year I stayed in a much more expensive place https://www.ruralagoga.com/ but it was very nice. I see that's where you ate dinner. The owners were very nice, and left me a thermos with coffee that was more or less still warm in the morning! Thanks for all of this information.

 

[peregrina2000]

Great tip about the new accommodations in Soldon!

http://apartamentosmolinosoldon.blogspot.com.es/2015/05/invierno-2016-2017.html?m=1

A comment by the owner on the site says that as of October 2016 , he has turned one of the apartments into an "apartamento del peregrino." 40€ for two with towels, sheets and breakfast. Additional pilgrims 15€ each.

The stage from A Rua to Quiroga was a hard one for some people do this is very welcome news!!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Ah yes, I'm remembering the road construction after alto de faro and before Rodeiro. I would have appreciated better marking but managed to get to Rodeiro with only a few moments of confusion. Fingers crossed that the damage is minimal, but I do remember a rather vicious earthwork project going down after that huge mojon you describe with Concello de Rodeiro prominently carved.

You're so lucky to have seen the inside of the church at Pazo de Camba.

Lots of good info here for the update, thanks gollygolly.

 

[gollygolly]

Hi gollygolly, i'm just starting to review your comments for revisions for next year's edition. I see that you are critical of the accommodation in Casa Socorro in As Médulas. I'd be interested in hearing more about what went wrong, because I stayed there last year and everything was fine. I think it's important to have opinions on both sides.

The previous year I stayed in a much more expensive place https://www.ruralagoga.com/ but it was very nice. I see that's where you ate dinner. The owners were very nice, and left me a thermos with coffee that was more or less still warm in the morning! Thanks for all of this information

I can only respond from the perspective of my/our single experience which was a one night stay. Despite having telephoned a few weeks in advance so as to ensure that a room was reserved, our arrival seemed unexpected, and certainly would not fall into the category of being - in my experience - pilgrim friendly. Once we were shown our quite spartan room, I am not confident that the bed linen was clean and likewise the towels.

I did not look at the rooms at Casa Rural Agoga, though based on the friendly nature of the person who we met when we went for supper there, I believe that this would be a better, though possibly more expensive alternative.

Apologies for not being able to add much more.