LIVE from the Camino A few tips from the Camino del Norte

peregrina2000 · May 23, 2017

Hi, forum friends,

I left my Baztan amigas in Pamplona and I'm now walking the Norte. I will try to post a few comments that might be helpful, but I'm sure you don't want to hear my blow-by-blow account of this very heavily traveled Camino.

Day 1--spectacular walk into San Sebastián. At the Guadalupe sanctuary, there is a split. My recommendation is the so called Alpine route. It is perfectly doable, no scrambling involved, and the views are great.

After the ferry, you will go up again. And about 4 km outside of San Sebastián, you will see another split. The Camino route goes left, and up to an asphalt road, while the GR sign to the right is on a beautiful dirt path through forestscand along the coast. There is absolutely no comparison. Take the GR 121.

peregrina2000 · May 23, 2017

Forgot to add some pictures

Deleted member 36903 · May 23, 2017

Thank you for this @peregrina2000 and I would certainly enjoy reading your blow-by-blow account of walking the Norte. No Camino walking for me for a while but I can participate vicariously through 'Live from the Camino' threads such as yours.

SabsP · May 23, 2017

I hope the seabreeze somewhat neutralises the high temperatures?

natefaith · May 23, 2017

Enjoy, Laurie! Nate absolutely loved his walk from Irún to Santander in May 2015. Looks like this May is again a nice time to walk

Oppis · May 23, 2017

Buen Camino, Laurie.
Highly interested to follow your posts. As we told, we start Del Norte next September

pilgr · May 23, 2017

Have a great camino! What a great time to walk the Norte

NicP · May 23, 2017

Like @SEB I too am unlikely to walk again for some time, so some vicarious camino experience, via your posts, is very welcome. Thanks for the post!

peregrina2000 · May 23, 2017

Well I had a meltdown with my blog app and my dear amiga Nuala taught me about Find Penguins, so you can see a bit more detail there. https://findpenguins.com/7wlooua0y7gmt

Hope that link works.

I had a lovely afternoon in this gorgeous city. If anyone is looking for a high quality hiking store, go to Izadi. Calle Uzandizaga 18. It's a block off of the first beach you come into, in the neighborhood Gros. I needed a good pair of socks and new hiking pole tips. I had a great pair, though Rebekah made fun of them on the Baztan because they were huge. But they were inadvertently left behind on the bus when I yanked the poles out of the luggage hold.

Tomorrow to Getaria to an Albergue recommended by someone on the forum, so thank you!

VNwalking · May 23, 2017

Great pics, Laurie, thanks!!
Sorry to hear that you lost those pole tips. They were unique.

It looks like good weather all week...lucky us. Buen Camino from down in Pamplona!

LakeMcD · May 23, 2017

We will be a month behind and starting from SJPD via GR10. Looking forward to following your journey and blog.

Gary

Magwood · May 24, 2017

Buen camino Laurie. I have arrived at Santiago today after 32 days of walking. Just five more to go. Am planning on taking the Dos Faros route from Finisterre to Muxia. Hope I don't need to call out the rescue services!

LTfit · May 24, 2017

Hey Laurie, so you are off and running! Sabine shared with me some pics of you guys on the Baztán, glad that the weather improved.

You already know the Norte, my only advice would be to hug the coast as much as you can (E 9 coastal route for example) to diminish % asphalt. In Cantabria especially. Once in Asturias there is much less, can't wait to get back!

Posted this in some other thread but if you want to avoid Llanes and Ribadesilla I suggest Playa de Poo about 3 km after Llanes and Vega de Ribadesilla about 6 km after Ribadesilla, the later has a beautiful beach.

Buen Camino!
ps I sent you a whatsapp but don't know if you received it

Anemone del Camino · May 24, 2017

LTfit said:
if you want to avoid Llanes and Ribadesilla I suggest Playa de Poo about 3 km after Llanes and Vega de Ribadesilla about 6 km after Ribadesilla, the later has a beautiful beach.

Why skip Llanes, with its beautiful casas de Indianos, delicious carbayones and all the sites used in films and tv series, including its breathtaking acantilados. For a delicious menu del dia, get there early for lunch or be ready to queue at the Covandonga.

Isca-camigo · May 24, 2017

If you do go into Llanes the best way (imo) to get to Playa De Poo is after arriving at the basilica de Santa Maria is to head for the Paseo San Pedro, it the grass path that runs along the top of the cliffs in Llanes, once you get to the end of it don't feel you have to cut inland but stay with the now proper trail path along the cliff tops, just before you get to Playa de Poo you have to cut through whatever trail path is apparent through the bushes, you can cut around to the other side of the Playa and then follow the coastal path for a few km more, it eventually rejoins with the Camino. I have walked out of Llanes twice on Camino and several times on holiday, the Paseo first thing in the morning makes it for a pleasant and visually beautiful walk.

LTfit · May 25, 2017

Anemone del Camino said:
Why skip Llanes, with its beautiful casas de Indianos, delicious carbayones and all the sites used in films and tv series, including its breathtaking acantilados. For a delicious menu del dia, get there early for lunch or be ready to queue at the Covandonga.

I have nothing against Llanes, stayed at Albergue Estación last summer but some people like to get away from the larger towns.

Last October I did a section of the Norte for a second time with my dog. As you can not stay in municipals, I ended up staying in some private but very reasonably priced alternatives. This was true after Llanes and Ribadesilla.

peregrina2000 · May 25, 2017

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I will pay attention to them when I am closer.

Wifi is weak so I won't add pics, but just to say that from Orio to Zarautz you can take the Gr 121 much of the way. From Zarautz, th GR will not take you to Getaria, where I wanted to stay. Albergue Kanpaia is fine, very nice hospitaleras (mom and daughter team). Not much in the way of food but they get pizzas and lasagna from locals, which were adequate.

Today after the few kms to Zumaia, we got on the GR 121. It intersects with the Camino a few times but I am so very glad we took it all the way into Deba. Astonishingly beautiful. After a cold drink in Deba, the last 4 or 5 up to Izarbide weren't too tough. Not as steep as the GR 121. This albergue is great! Definitely worth the few extra kms after Deba. In a renovated cow barn in the middle of the country, separate male and female rooms, and an old cow pasture across the road where there are views of the hills and the ocean from some comfy chaise lounge chairs. I will admit to having dozed for a while.

Dinner provided by the very simpática family who run the place. Nervela(I may have her name wrong, it means "mine" in Basque) is helpful, fun, and all around a great hospitalera. In my opinion, this albergue should not be missed. Just beautiful surroundings. 12€ for bed, 13€ for dinner.

NualaOC · May 25, 2017

Hi Laurie, great that the GR paths are working out for you. And I'm delighted that you stayed at Izarbide! I loved that albergue and the people running it. It's definitely one of the best.

Where are you heading next? If most people are staying at the monastery, Albergue Lea (a few kms later) should be nice and quiet. 10 beds, €15 for bed, breakfast and laundry (which the hospitalera insists on doing). Nice dinner available too.

peregrina2000 · May 26, 2017

Hi Nuala, I remember you had written about these albergues --Kanpaia, Izarbide, and Lea. The hospitalera in Izarbide didn't think there was an albergue after the monastery and had to call to find out for herself. I thought that was odd. I will try to make it there.

So I got up today as the bag rustlers started moving around, thinking it was 6:15. I need to put my glasses on when I look at my watch bc it was only 5:15.

I was already up though so here I sit waiting for a better departure hour.

Luka · May 26, 2017

Love to read your live reports on the Norte! Good to know about the GR alternatives. I hope to walk out of Irun in 5,5 weeks. Not crowded yet?

ktanita · May 27, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
Hi, forum friends,

I left my Baztan amigas in Pamplona and I'm now walking the Norte. I will try to post a few comments that might be helpful, but I'm sure you don't want to hear my blow-by-blow account of this very heavily traveled Camino.

Day 1--spectacular walk into San Sebastián. At the Guadalupe sanctuary, there is a split. My recommendation is the so called Alpine route. It is perfectly doable, no scrambling involved, and the views are great.

After the ferry, you will go up again. And about 4 km outside of San Sebastián, you will see another split. The Camino route goes left, and up to an asphalt road, while the GR sign to the right is on a beautiful dirt path through forestscand along the coast. There is absolutely no comparison. Take the GR 121.

I do want to hear your blow-by-blow account, as I plan to walk the Norte this summer. Looking forward to your more information.

peregrina2000 · May 27, 2017

Two more days of walking --Azarbide to Munitibar and then today to the recently inaugurated (last week) albergue in the small town (and former ETA stronghold) Larrabetzu.

Both days were long -- 30-32 -- but doable. Very similar scenery -- lots of forest paths, small hamlets, and pretty incessant up and down. Last night I was the only one in Albergue Lea, who fondly remembers Nuala.

Tonight there are 10 of us so far in Larrabetzu. I got an early start, right as the church bell was ringing 7 am, and walked into Guernica right at ten, just as the museum was opening. I didn't do it justice, focusing exclusively on the Spanish historical part. I thought that both the "reenactment" room and the display rooms outside were very well done. The floor is glass and we walk over all different types of debris from the bombing.

After a boots off rest in a park near the ermita at the exit from town (the pastelería right near the church had some very good treats and very cold drinks), it was about 11:45 before I got started again. With 18 km and the temperature rising to about 30 Celsius, I expected to suffer lots more than I did. I took a couple of short breaks, just powered through the never ending ups and downs and was at the albergue around 4.

Saturday afternoon means no grocery stores open in this small place and no options for dinner till at least 8:30. Poor pilgrim planning on my part!

peregrina2000 · May 27, 2017

Oops, sorry Luka I forgot to answer your question. At the albergue in Irun I learned that pilgrim numbers are up 36% over last year at this time. And last year was a big increase from the year before. Albergue in Irun is always full, they told me. Looks like it will be a crowded year.

KinkyOne · May 27, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
Oops, sorry Luka I forgot to answer your question. At the albergue in Irun I learned that pilgrim numbers are up 36% over last year at this time. And last year was a big increase from the year before. Albergue in Irun is always full, they told me. Looks like it will be a crowded year.

Same last year around this time. The cue was down the staircase almost to the ground floor. 2 hours waiting... Also veeeeeery slow hospitalero

peregrina2000 · May 28, 2017

Last night in the newly opened albergue in Larrabetzu. Run by the Bilbao Association, one of 5 they take care of. About 18 beds. The albergue is on the 2nd floor (3rd US) under the rafters. I imagine it will be very hot in summer. There are windows at ground level but not much breeze. Small kitchen area with dishe, microwave, and refrigerator, but only water source is in the bathroom. No place to wash clothes other than the bathroom. this is not st all meant as a complaint but just so you will have the info. It is a very lively town, still very much an ETA stronghold, I was told, though I'm not exactly sure what that means in the post-truce world.

There is another association albergue about 3 further towards Bilbao in Lezama, but it doesn't open till next week.

Walking to bilbao today and then along the river to Portugalete where I will meet two peregrinos from last years camino for lunch.

Luka · May 28, 2017

So nice to read your reports!

And thanks for answering my question! Albergue in Irun always full, oh my... And that is a rather big one, at the very start of the Norte (while more pilgrims will join in Santander and Bilbao)... I am starting to have second thoughts about my Norte plan in July...

Camino Vasco del Interior to Burgos would be an alternative, right? But then I would first walk a very quiet Camino and then a very crowded one. What I like about the Norte (and the VdlP for example) is that it's something in between.

mspath · May 28, 2017

Luka,
Have you considered staying in the pilgrim albergue in nearby Hendaye, France? See more here--
Next morning you could easily walk 4km or so into Irun and Spain to start the Camino Norte.
See this earlier thread.

Happy planning and Buen camino!

Luka · May 28, 2017

@mspath thanks for the tip! Didn't know there was an albergue in Hendaye.

mspath · May 28, 2017

Luka,

I have not stayed at the Hendaye albergue but have happily eaten at the cafe/resto Chez Alain which is on the way towards Irun at 11 ave d'Espagne. They are most friendly and do a very good daily menu for 13.50 euros. If you wish you can even take a shower for free! The place is a routiers or truck stop but in no way hyper macho. See more here http://restoroutier.free.fr/fiche_64_hendaye.htm

KinkyOne · May 28, 2017

Luka said:
...
Camino Vasco del Interior to Burgos would be an alternative, right? ...

Luka, just a small correction. That is Via de Bayona (Bayonne - Burgos) which I walked last summer. Vasco del Interior is Irun - Sto.Domingo de la Calzada.

They overlapse from Irun to Estavillo though.

Luka · May 28, 2017

@KinkyOne thanks! It's still new to me. But if I want to know more, I'll open my own thread, because I am stealing this one!

KinkyOne · May 28, 2017

Luka said:
@KinkyOne thanks! It's still new to me. But if I want to know more, I'll open my own thread, because I am stealing this one!

And we don't want to do that

PS (And no loose dogs that I can remember...)

Bev Phillips · May 29, 2017

Hi there,

My husband and I plan to walk the Camino del Norte in September so0 I am delighted to hear your suggestions and tips. Thanks!

FranM · May 29, 2017

Thanks. I'm interested in hearing about alternate routes that are dirt paths, so keep posting. I'm starting in late July.

peregrina2000 · May 29, 2017

Larrabetzu to Portugalete.

From the albergue in Larrabetzu to the Cathedral in Bilbao is about 3 hours. A few kilometers on the side of the road, and then an up and down through a pine forest. I left the albergue around 7, and then learned I'd have to wait till 11 for the cathedral to open. So I decided to carry on, since I had a lunch date with two Primitivo friends from last year in Portugalete.

I walked a bit through the modernist part of town, and then walked near and around the Guggenheim, which is always something to behold as the light changes during the day. I crossed the river after the museum, and continued on asphalt all the way. It must've been another 12 or 13 km from Bilbao, not all of it pretty, but there are cafés at different points along the way for a rest stop. I am very glad it was a Sunday, because the working port that I saw and walked through would have been pretty crazy during a workday. At the end of the ría, you can take the hanging train car across the river. It is a UNESCO world heritage site, I read, and it is a mix between a train car, funicular, and ferry boat. For 40 centimos, you speed across the river to arrive in Portugalete's old historic core.

A very friendly person took me up the escalator stairway, and left me at the door of the private albergue, Bide Ona. I didn't have a reservation, but that wasn't a problem. However, the owner told me that the past three nights have been totally full, so I was lucky. It's a perfectly fine albergue, with about 16 people per room I think, and a decent breakfast offered for about three euros. No good place to dry clothes but there is a dryer for three euros.

I was glad to have walked at a good clip so that I could have lunch with two of my Primitivo friends who live in the area. That was a real highlight. And then, as always, early to bed, with fingers crossed for no rain.

peregrina2000 · May 29, 2017

Portugalete to Castro Urdiales.

Another very nice walk with a little bit too much asphalt. Leaving Portugalete, you snake and weave around and over all the many crisscrossing highways -- you are on an elevated bike lane/pedestrian walkway that is encased in red metal and some glass panels. It's virtually all asphalt all the way to Las Arenas beach, but I did occasionally find some dirt paths on the side of the road.

From Las Arenas to Mioño it's another five or 6K along the water, but usually on asphalt. In Mioño, there is a well marked split. Everyone I talk to went to the right, Tuesday on the side of the very lightly traveled N634. (though it's the national highway, all of the traffic has moved over to the high-speed autovia.

Don't worry about all the confusing discussion some of us had in earlier posts about how to go from Mioño to Castro, because there is just one option marked well with an arrow.

I was in Castro Urdiales by 12:30 and decided to get a pension. I'm in the pension La Mar, where singles are €35. There's a quite good menu del día for 13€ at the Bajamar Restaurant next door.

I am very glad I had a couple of hours to spend walking around town, and I was lucky enough to be at the church when it opened for a tour. It's quite beautiful inside. There's a really beautiful 13th century virgin and child, along with some interesting architectural features.It was also fun watching some fishing boats come in to harbor.

The albergue is about a kilometer outside of town. I went up there at about 5 PM and it was not yet full. But it was very crowded.

Tomorrow there are choices again, but Gronze is not very clear about what they are. The hospitalera in the Albergue told me that essentially the decision had to be made at the Albergue. Carrying on straight will take you on the highway and going up behind the Albergue will put you on the Camino. That's different information than what I had read, but I will see tomorrow and report back.

All of that asphalt has given me some shin pain, but I have been sitting here in my pension with ice on both shins, reading forum posts and feeling the pain subside.

Anemone del Camino · May 29, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
Tomorrow there are choices again, but Gronze is not very clear about what they are. The hospitalera in the Albergue told me that essentially the decision had to be made at the Albergue. Carrying on straight will take you on the highway and going up behind the Albergue will put you on the Camino. That's different information than what I had read, but I will see tomorrow and report back .

You have about 10km to walk before you have to decide to take the short route via the road (which is really not bad at all, except for a point or two which are blind spots, but as there is little traffic...) or the long way. I heard the long way is beautiful.

To get to Laredo, from Hazas (Liendo) go via the San Julian ermita up through the hills. The hospies at San Saturino can explain that route. Beautiful walk through the hills, a secluded little beach, and views.

peregrina2000 · May 30, 2017

Thanks, Anemone, I will take the long route and report back. Anything to stay off the pavement!!!

peregrina2000 · May 30, 2017

Ok here I am inLaredo. I followed the arrows the whole way, which meant getting off the national highway a few kms after Islares. It is true that the highway isn't too busy since most distance travelers take the autopista, but there were lots of garbage trucks and other local commercial vehicles. I was glad to get off.

If you look at gronze, you can see the loop you make. It is pavement all the way to La Magdalena, that's 5 km, but it is totally away from traffic. Before that, in Rioseco, there is a bar and a grocery store. There's supposedly a shortcut shortly after Rioseco, but I never found it.

In La Magdalena, you get off road on a forest track up through a eucalyptus forest. Then down into Liendo, where pavement begins again. In Liendo, there is a bar, albergue, farmacia, bank etc.

In Liendo, I just kept following the arrows and they take you on the path Anemone describes-- past the ermita de San Julian, and then up to the headlands over the coast. That was quite beautiful.

In total, the official camino is not the 37 or 38 kms people were saying. By my gps, the total from the center of Castro on all the "official" routes, to the center of Laredo, was 33.5. With the option of stopping in Liendo, I'd say stick with the camino and forget the national highway shortcut!

Anemone del Camino · May 30, 2017

I see you found the lovely beach. I jist loved that day into Laredo.

peregrina2000 · Jun 1, 2017

Laredo to Moruelo

Boat at the end of the long Laredo beach starts at 9, over to Santoña.

Another choice after leaving Santoña. Flat and forest around the monte into Noja, or up and across the headland. A French peregrino told me he liked the flat route through the forest, but no way was I going to pass up the short steep climb for more expansive ocean views.

After Noja, the camino turns inland and pound pound pound here comes the asphalt. I remember the four days leaving Santander there is not one step off pavement until about 10 km before Comillas. I will have to prepare to suffer.

I stayed in the albergue in Meruelo, a private one about 8 km before Guemes. Turns out a good friend of mine is filling in for the hospitalera here for a few days. This was not only a lot of fun but also very lucky. My upper body is covered in bites, and she gave me the 5***** disinfectant treatment. No one is 100% sure if they are fleas or bedbugs but it was great to get everything cleaned, sprayed, heated, etc.

Btw, I know Guemes is a big "not to be missed" place but I did talk with a few people today who thought that the after dinner lecture was a bit much. The Meruelo albergue, run by long time volunteer hospitalero Miguel, is in a very nice rural setting, a short walk from a very interesting mill and a bit further from a (closed) Romanesque church. I had planned to walk to the church, but four Spanish women arrived and one picked up the albergue guitar and started to sing and it was a great afternoon!

Anemone del Camino · Jun 1, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
My upper body is covered in bites, and she gave me the 5***** désinfectant treatment. No one is 100% sure if they are fleas or bedbugs but it was great to get everything cleaned, sprayed, heated, etc.

Btw, I know Guemes is a big "not to be missed" place but I did talk with a few people today who thought that the after dinner lecture was a bit much.

Sorry to herar about the bites but so glad you got help from your friend in Meruelos.

As for Guemes, I am also part of the skeptics who cannot help but think that the bedtime story is a grat wallet opener. While the grounds are fabulous, seeing all the volunteers hard at work running such a large place is heart warming and I will never forget being me at the entrance with a laege glass of cold water with a slice of lemon upon arrival rather than being asked for my credencial, pray you are not given a third level bunk or whatever it is they have for you to use as a bed in one of those garden sheds.

peregrina2000 · Jun 1, 2017

Meruelo to Santander

A short perfectly beautiful day. I walked with some savvy French who cut a km or two by bypassing Guemes, since we weren't going to stop there. There are a couple of really nice looking "posadas de Cantabria" along the way for those who would want a splurge. In Galuzano the detour to the beach is now well marked, and I can't imagine any reason why you wouldn't take it. It was a gorgeous, non-strenuous walk along the top with great views. You'll see the long beach and can just get on it and walk into Somo. Lots of people walking and saying Buen camino, surfers of all ages, kids, dogs, a very friendly vibe.

The ferry to Santander takes about 25 minutes and you get off in a very central location. I'm at Pension Magallanes, 29 € and close to a Carrefour as well as a long street of restaurants. I'm glad I reserved because they are full. The albergue is fine but I remember it as very cramped.

Tomorrow I will walk the "around the bump" beach alternative Dave posted about. That means I'll arrive in Boo after 30 km instead of 12, but several forum members have really enjoyed it and I have the time. Hopefully there will be lots of unpaved surfaces.

poogeyejr · Jun 1, 2017

If you take the coastal route - long way out of Santander . . . I recommend The Posada la Victoria in Cundon (close to Miengo) just after Santander. It might be too close for you, but they have amazing place and a 35Euro singles rate. http://www.posadalavictoria.es/

Enjoy!

peregrina2000 · Jun 1, 2017

Just have to say that if you get to Santander with an afternoon on your hands, after you get your sello in the sacristy under the cathedral you should definitely go see the underground medieval wall excavation, followed by the really amazing museum of prehistory. I enjoyed every minute.

Anemone del Camino · Jun 1, 2017

That carved head is magnificent. My grand-parents were married at the cathedral in Santander, and we celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary there again. It was the first time they had been able to go back to Spain since fleeing during the civil war. And yet it did not occur to me to get a sello.

Now I have an excuse to walk the Norte again.

Tia Valeria · Jun 2, 2017

We left Santander on Wednesday night on the ferry to the UK, so we only just missed you @peregrina2000 .
On the way to Santander we passed the church at San Pedro de Pria. There is now an albergue next to the church in the Casa Rectoral. Phone number for access is over the door - advertises that it has a washing machine etc. We are not sure how long this has been open or if it is the current printed guides.

For those walking here do note that there is a track waymarked across the field. If you follow any other directions along the road then it adds at least a couple of kms on and is not an 'easy' road. The electric fence has 'gates' (ie narrow breaks) to allow pilgrims to pass through. At the top one is near the 'well' to allow access to the albergue and the other is further along to give access to the church and the Camino track by the water tank.

NualaOC · Jun 2, 2017

This is a fantastic thread - thanks @peregrina2000 and all the other contributors. I'll be returning to the Norte in September - all of this information will be invaluable!

peregrina2000 · Jun 2, 2017

Anemone del Camino said:
That carved head is magnificent. My grand-parents were married at the cathedral in Santander, and we celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary there again. It was the first time they had been able to go back to Spain since fleeing during the civil war. And yet it did not occur to me to get a sello.

Now I have an excuse to walk the Norte again.

That carved head (of an ibex I believe) is many many thousands of years old. I never get my prehistory right, but is it possible that it is 18,000 years old? I should have written it down.

peregrina2000 · Jun 2, 2017

Santander to Boo on the coast. 36.5 km. Could be split with a stop at the casa rural at km 23.

You could also take a bus or cab to the point at which dave's directions describe the stairs going up at a roundabout at the end of Santander 's last beach. Or to the light house as well.

I absolutely loved this walk, and it's hard to think of any coastal stage that tops it. It was tough, though, no denying that!

There's just one or two slogs through mass tourism housing but most of the time there's nothing between you and the water. It was cloudy and foggy but even so, it was gorgeous.

When you turn off from the coast you are spared asphalt for another couple of kms as you go through the dune pine forest. Then the last couple are on a decent size paved shoulder into town. Albergue Piedad is right on the camino. Hope my boots dry tonight!

peregrina2000 · Jun 3, 2017

Saturday--Boo to Caborredondo.

Since the train stop is virtually across the street from the Albergue, most of us decided to do the legal thing and take the two minute train ride from Boo to Mogro, rather than risk being smashed by a train on that little bridge, and certainly not wanting to walk nine extra kilometers to cross the river on a different bridge.

Now begins the endless pavement, though I do think they have re-routed a few kms outside the huge factory so that we can walk on some gravel for relief from the pavement. These kms go alongside two huge pipes, which must be transporting something to the factory.

Not one of the Norte's best days, but you take it like it comes. There are some pretty hills off in the distance, and you frequently see the ocean, so there's not much to complain about. The Camino also goes through Santillana Del Mar, which is a very touristy. I am always surprised at how few pilgrims take the time to visit the beautiful Romanesque cloister in the town's little church, but then I am a Romanesque nut case. I had 6 km of rain afternoon leaving Santillana, which just makes the arrival at the albergue all the more special.

It's a very doable day from Boo to Alex's new place in Caborredondo. (For anyone who had walked the Primitivo, Alex had a wonderful albergue in Bodenaya and has since moved to the Norte) It's a nice albergue, next door to a restaurant, where I have just finished a very good menu del dia.

I'm attaching pictures of two private places I saw after the factory and before Santillana. For those who might be looking for more upscale accommodations, there are quite a few beautiful country houses that are members of "Posadas de Cantabria", which must be easily searchable on the web.

Tomorrow I will be walking to San Vicente de la Barquera. I have had a very unpleasant experience at the albergue, so I will look for something else.

Anemone del Camino · Jun 3, 2017

Dito on the albergue in San Vicente: very poorly maintained and grupmy bossy hospy. But do not miss visiting the church behind it.

nycwalking · Jun 3, 2017

Go peregrina2000, go. Enjoying your posts.

norelle · Jun 3, 2017

When I got to San Vincente......I kept walking to Serdio. Beautiful one bar village with a great albergue.
Buen Camino!

peregrina2000 · Jun 4, 2017

Caborredondo to Serdio. 34.8 km

There wasn't much doubt that it would rain today. Nevertheless, I decided to start out on the camino, which crosses the highway at several spots, figuring I could bail to the road if the rain were too unbearable. The camino in these parts weaves around the highway. Unfortunately, it is always on asphalt, but asphalt on a less traveled road is preferable to walking on a busy road.

The first little dip goes through the hamlet of Cigüeña and then arrives in Cobreces. So far, so good, no rain. In Cobreces there is another little loop--this one goes down to the beach and up again. Lovely (and not the way the camino went 10 years ago), but that was when the rain started. So the next time I came out into the highway and saw "Comillas 4 km" I just stayed on the road.

In Comillas there are plenty of cafes and the like. After about a 40 minute stop trying to wait out the rain, I started out in a little drizzle. From Comillas to SanVicente the camino has also changed because I definitely remember some off-road kms. Now it's all on asphalt but on a green asphalt reserved for walkers. Lots of time spent along the marshes, and along the coast where I heard many cries of jubilation from kids surfing-- the one group that didn't mind this steady rain.

At about 1 I was in San Vicente and the rain stopped. So I decided to forge ahead to Serdio, another 7 km. It seemed silly to stop walking when the weather got better, and I knew I would not be sleeping in San Vicente's albergue anyway. I opted for the casa rural in Serdio, El Corralucu, since it seemed more likely that things would dry there. 28 € for bed, dinner, breakfast.

I have been up to the albergue and don't recognize anyone there. It looks fine so I wouldn't discourage anyone from going there.

Tomorrow maybe Llanes, we'll see.

peregrino_tom · Jun 4, 2017

I wanted to chip in, as there've been a couple of negative comments about the main albergue (El Galeon) in San Vicente. and I'd like to balance things up before anyone planning their route decides to avoid the place. I stayed there last summer as my starting point for the Lebaniego and really enjoyed it. Sofia is, I think, the elderly owner and she was very kind. She 'employs' volunteers and many do some of their hospitalera/o training here. So I guess much of one's experience depends on the volunteers running the place at the time - and this will of course vary.
The location is great, on the hill, on the calle alta near the big Santa Maria de los Angeles church (unfortunately closed for renovation when i was there) with it's commanding views out over the water and the hills - wonderful place to reflect on the journey on a nice evening. OK, so the albergue is a bit dark and there's no kitchen, and I hear there can be big queues at times, but that's no different to many other places. I had a warm helpful welcome and met plenty other pilgrims enjoying the hospitality. And you can see by all the wonderful old film photos that cover the walls of the comedor/salon that this has been a much loved and cherished place and experience for so many pilgrims.

Anemone del Camino · Jun 4, 2017

peregrino_tom said:
I wanted to chip in, as there've been a couple of negative comments about the main albergue (El Galeon) in San Vicente. ...
OK, so the albergue is a bit dark and there's no kitchen, and I hear there can be big queues at times, but that's no different to many other places. I had a warm helpful welcome and met plenty other pilgrims enjoying the hospitality.

Well, I guess I got the husband and he was rude, to the point of forbidding people to speak during breakfast and insulting those who did. The place was so dirty that this albergue os the one and only in 7 Caminos I went without a shower. Mattresses filthy, dust and dead insects on the window sills. But we did have access to the kitchen.

I have heard that he might belosing his faculties which might explain hos behaviour, and the family being too overwhelmed to take care of the place. If his wife is now running the show, that might explain the better treatment.

That is one albergue in need of love and that could use a small team of volunteer hospies to give it a good cleaning. Hmmm... food for thought.

peregrino_tom · Jun 5, 2017

Anemone del Camino said:
Well, I guess I got the husband and he was rude, to the point of forbidding people to speak during breakfast and insulting those who did. The place was so dirty that this albergue os the one and only in 7 Caminos I went without a shower. Mattresses filthy, dust and dead insects on the window sills. But we did have access to the kitchen.

I have heard that he might belosing his faculties which might explain hos behaviour, and the family being too overwhelmed to take care of the place. If his wife is now running the show, that might explain the better treatment.

That is one albergue in need of love and that could use a small team of volunteer hospies to give it a good cleaning. Hmmm... food for thought.

This doesn't sound like El Galeon at all - different albergue I guess?

peregrina2000 · Jun 5, 2017

Sorry to say that my experience there (it was not recent --about ten years ago) was just as Anemone described. I've encountered rudeness before, and I get it that people have bad moods and pilgrims can be a real pain. But this is the only albergue I have ever been personally and directly insulted in. When he found out I was from the US, he started in on imperialism and hegemony. And then he went at me personally the next morning telling me he pitied me for reasons I don't exactly remember.

I stayed there a second time when I walked the Lebañiego. I kept my head down and tried to avoid interaction. Though I was the chosen one to translate his instructions at breakfast on why we should avoid the camino and walk the national highway to save a few km. (Those walking the Lebañiego can't do that because of the turnoff, and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone in any case but I didn't argue, just translated).

Maybe he has turned things over to his wife (who was also there both times) and maybe volunteers have improved things. But my opinion is not an outlier because the French and Italian pilgrims at Alex's place the night before were trying to find an alternative because of what they had heard and read (and not from me).

peregrina2000 · Jun 5, 2017

Serdio to Llanes with the coastal options. 36.5 km.

This was a hard day. Left around 7:15-30 and didn't arrive in Llanes till 4. But I am so extremely glad to have the coastal tracks in my GPS and to have avoided many kms along the side of the highway. I started using the coastal alternatives at La Franca, a few kms after Colombres, I think. There was one kind of hairy passage over a natural rock bridge that took your from headland to headland, but going down to the beach and then up again to the headland on the other side bwould have been possible. Outside Buelna, a couple of other pilgrims veered off the camino to the coastal route, and we walked together to Pendueles. So it is possible to leave the highway at several places.

I think the camino puts everyone on to the coastal route at Pendueles, but maybe not. I cannot understand why anyone would slog along the hard side of the national highway, when just a few hundred meters away is a grassy (well ok, sometimes rocky too) path with one gorgeous view after the other. From Pendueles it is a long way to Llanes and much of it is not coastal. You twist and turn through a lot of grazing land. After you ascend after going through Andarin, there are some more wonderful coastal views, but that part is not the most beautiful coastal part. I would definitely start in La Franca or the latest Buelna to get the coastal beauty.

These distances may be too long for some of you, but there are easy ways to break them up. If you are going to walk all these kms, doesn't it make sense to walk in natural beauty rather than along the side of a national highway?

peregrina2000 · Jun 5, 2017

Just a few random pics from today. You would not have seen any of his if you stuck with the "official camino".

Anemone del Camino · Jun 5, 2017

peregrino_tom said:
This doesn't sound like El Galeon at all - different albergue I guess?

Oh no, Galeon.

Walsh Camino · Jun 5, 2017

Laurie,
Thanks for all this great info! How did you get the coastal tracks?

Elizabeth_B · Jun 6, 2017

Really enjoying your blog Laurie. I am considering the Norte for next year so appreciate all and any pointers.

peregrina2000 · Jun 6, 2017

Walsh Camino said:
Laurie,
Thanks for all this great info! How did you get the coastal tracks?

They are all on wikiloc.com You have to compare with the official camino to make sure you get the right ones. When I am back home I will be able to post links.

peregrina2000 · Jun 6, 2017

Another 35 km day. It isn't like walking 35 km on the Levante or the Ebro, these coastal paths can be tricky and slow going. But oh my , the beauty. Even though I arrived here in Ribadesella after 3, having started at 7, I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

The official camino is 31 for this stage, so the coastal add-on is 4 km. There are ways to break it up by staying in Nueva. Actually, the woman at the bar in Nueva told me that the coastal path goes all the way from the Nueva beach into Ribadesella. I was tempted but didn't have the tracks, and since I had already walked about 17 from Llanes, I think, that would have been way too long a day. But starting fresh in Nueva and with the gps tracks, that would be great.

This part of the coast is very different from the last few days. Much more jagged grey rocks, fewer velvety green headlands. The sound of the constant pounding water was a nice change from the cars or forestry equipment that had accompanied me from Llanes.

I heard the albergue here is closed so I just got a place in town.

No coastal alternatives tomorrow and since I have three days to get to Gijón (I have to be there on Friday), I may take a short day tomorrow.

Luka · Jun 7, 2017

I already opened a thread about the albergue in Ribadesella before I read your post. Have you heard why it's closed? Any alternatives in Ribadesella as far as you know of?

peregrina2000 · Jun 8, 2017

Wednesday was a long day, about 40 km from Ribadesella to Villaviciosa with no off-camino detours. So most sensible people would either stay inVega de Ribadesella with the 5***** donativo albergue I've heard so much about or the beautiful recently opened (last week?) albergue Rectoral in the priest's house next to the pre-Romanesque church in Priesca.
La Isla's albergue is also very nice and right on the water, so there are a lot of options.

Lots of nice coastal views on this stage. In La Isla there is a coastal path that goes all the way past Colunga's beach (2km out of town, but Colunga is on the Camino) and all the way to Lastres, a pretty but touristy town not on the camino about 6-8 beyond Colunga. I didn't take the coastal path but I imagine it's just as nice as all the rest. There are lots of lodging options so it would be easy to incorporate the Isla to Colunga stretch into a Camino.

The pre-Romanesque church in Priesca is very nice. I saw a woman unloading groceries outside and asked if she knew anything about the key. She waved me over to the house next door, where there was no one home. As two of us were admiring the church windows, we commented on how sorry we were not to be able to go in. Well, turns out that the woman with the groceries speaks English heard us and must have felt bad because she motioned to us and said she just might have a set of keys in her car. After a nice visit, and boosted by a 1€ Aquarius from the albergue machine, we started out on the last 8 or 9 to Villaviciosa. I didn't dare go inside the albergue because I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have left. It looks really nice.

The long descent from Sebrayo to Villaviciosa is evil. Huge rocks strewn everywhere. But finally we arrived at the albergue. 5 bunks per room, two toilets and 1 shower per room. 13€.

peregrina2000 · Jun 8, 2017

Thursday. Villaviciosa to Vega de Sariego --17 km!!!!!

Yesterday I met a son-mom combo and walked with them from Vega to Villaviciosa. We had a good fun day together. As luck would have it, they were staying on the Norte while I was heading down to Oviedo so I could stop into visit Valdedios. So this morning at the split we said goodbye.

It's only 8 km from Villaviciosa to Valdedios and the church doesn't open till 11. If I had been thinking, a smarter way to visit the church would be to get settled in the albergue yesterday and take a cab the 8 km for an afternoon visit. In summer months, the church is open in the afternoons.

I left Villaviciosa late and walked slowly but still got to Valdedios around 10. No bar open, nothing going on. At around 10:30 a trio of nuns appeared. I was surprised and told them that the last time I was here it had been monks. Two years ago there was a regime change and 13 nuns moved in. They run the albergue and have transformed it into a spotless comfortable place (which it was NOT in 2007 --I will refrain from making a gender comment

). They also have 9 rooms for people who want a several day retreat.

The visit took about an hour and it was very interesting. It was nearly 12 when I started again. There was a very steep ascent, 300 m or so, out of the valley. By the time I got to Vega, with its albergue, small store and two bars, I was ready to call it quits. The last few days have been rough. Tomorrow will be 27 into Oviedo, mainly flat and all on asphalt.

poogeyejr · Jun 8, 2017

Thank you for the fun and informative reports!
Buen Camino

peregrina2000 · Jun 9, 2017

Well I was wrong about today's walk. It WAS 27 km, it WAS mostly flat, but it WAS NOT mostly asphalt. The people who have marked this route have done a great job getting us off the highway, which was what I remember from 2007.

Although I saw a couple of pilgrims ignoring the arrows and taking the highway, I would not recommend it. The Camino is very well marked, and it really is a pleasant walk until you are about 3 km outside of Oviedo and in the middle of car dealership heaven. Lots of dirt paths and quiet country roads.

The Albergue in Pola de Siero looks really nice, and that was confirmed by someone I met who had stayed there. So you might want to give it a try.

I'm taking a five-day break from the Camino, but I will be back in Oviedo next week, will walk north to Avilés, and will continue the Norte from there. Buen Camino, Laurie

AlanSykes · Jun 10, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
I left Villaviciosa late and walked slowly but still got to Valdedios around 10. No bar open, nothing going on. At around 10:30 a trio of nuns appeared. I was surprised and told them that the last time I was here it had been monks. Two years ago there was a regime change and 13 nuns moved in. They run the albergue and have transformed it into a spotless comfortable place (which it was NOT in 2007 --I will refrain from making a gender comment ). They also have 9 rooms for people who want a several day retreat..

So very glad to hear that the monastery at Valdediós is occupied again - when I went there in 2015 it was a rather depressing place, in contrast to the serene beauty of the jaw-droppingly lovely pre-Romanesque chapel of San Salvador (893AD, I think) across the way. The night before I stayed at a (then) new private (donativo) albergue in Amandi (an hour from Villaviciosa), run by a very nice couple with a young family and a friendly border collie (I come from the border that border collies come from, so am always glad to see them).

Deepforest · Jun 10, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
Hi, forum friends,

I left my Baztan amigas in Pamplona and I'm now walking the Norte. I will try to post a few comments that might be helpful, but I'm sure you don't want to hear my blow-by-blow account of this very heavily traveled Camino.

Day 1--spectacular walk into San Sebastián. At the Guadalupe sanctuary, there is a split. My recommendation is the so called Alpine route. It is perfectly doable, no scrambling involved, and the views are great.

After the ferry, you will go up again. And about 4 km outside of San Sebastián, you will see another split. The Camino route goes left, and up to an asphalt road, while the GR sign to the right is on a beautiful dirt path through forestscand along the coast. There is absolutely no comparison. Take the GR 121.

Laurie, I'm starting out from Irun at the beginning of July. Was the weather good. I ask as I'm living in Ireland and I've a lot of lush green scenery with 70% rain.

I'm hoping we will get some good weather. Suncream weather? If that's not a stupid way of phrasing it.

peregrina2000 · Jun 15, 2017

Deepforest said:
Laurie, I'm starting out from Irun at the beginning of July. Was the weather good. I ask as I'm living in Ireland and I've a lot of lush green scenery with 70% rain. I'm hoping we will get some good weather. Suncream weather? If that's not a stupid way of phrasing it.

I took five days off from the camino and apparently I missed a lot of bad weather. Today my first day back was cloudy and cool but no rain. That heat wave is not touching us up here. I use sunscreen always because of my dermatological history and it has been hot some days. But nothing like the heat wave we hear about in central and southern Spain.

Camino Chrissy · Jun 16, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
Well I had a meltdown with my blog app and my dear amiga Nuala taught me about Find Penguins, so you can see a bit more detail there. https://findpenguins.com/7wlooua0y7gmt

Hope that link works.

I had a lovely afternoon in this gorgeous city. If anyone is looking for a high quality hiking store, go to Izadi. Calle Uzandizaga 18. It's a block off of the first beach you come into, in the neighborhood Gros. I needed a good pair of socks and new hiking pole tips. I had a great pair, though Rebekah made fun of them on the Baztan because they were huge. But they were inadvertently left behind on the bus when I yanked the poles out of the luggage hold.

Tomorrow to Getaria to an Albergue recommended by someone on the forum, so thank you!

Hi Laurie, I will check out your blog on the findpenguins and will enjoy reading your observations and experiences on the Norte. It will bring to light my own memories as I walked much of it a year ago.

Camino Chrissy · Jun 16, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
Thanks for all of the suggestions, I will pay attention to them when I am closer.

Wifi is weak so I won't add pics, but just to say that from Orio to Zarautz you can take the Gr 121 much of the way. From Zarautz, th GR will not take you to Getaria, where I wanted to stay. Albergue Kanpaia is fine, very nice hospitaleras (mom and daughter team). Not much in the way of food but they get pizzas and lasagna from locals, which were adequate.

Today after the few kms to Zumaia, we got on the GR 121. It intersects with the Camino a few times but I am so very glad we took it all the way into Deba. Astonishingly beautiful. After a cold drink in Deba, the last 4 or 5 up to Izarbide weren't too tough. Not as steep as the GR 121. This albergue is great! Definitely worth the few extra kms after Deba. In a renovated cow barn in the middle of the country, separate male and female rooms, and an old cow pasture across the road where there are views of the hills and the ocean from some comfy chaise lounge chairs. I will admit to having dozed for a while.

Dinner provided by the very simpática family who run the place. Nervela(I may have her name wrong, it means "mine" in Basque) is helpful, fun, and all around a great hospitalera. In my opinion, this albergue should not be missed. Just beautiful surroundings. 12€ for bed, 13€ for dinner.

I stayed in this same albergue last spring and thought it a real highlight and had a an excellent communal meal there as well.

Camino Chrissy · Jun 16, 2017

Anemone del Camino said:
Sorry to herar about the bites but so glad you got help from your friend in Meruelos.

As for Guemes, I am also part of the skeptics who cannot help but think that the bedtime story is a grat wallet opener. While the grounds are fabulous, seeing all the volunteers hard at work running such a large place is heart warming and I will never forget being me at the entrance with a laege glass of cold water with a slice of lemon upon arrival rather than being asked for my credencial, pray you are not given a third level bunk or whatever it is they have for you to use as a bed in one of those garden sheds.

I am one who loved spending the night at Guemes. Ernesto's story of his life and sacrificial service to the remote mountain people in the reguon is amazing. I loved the albergue, the beautiful and well cared for property and didn't mind the appeal to our wallets after dinner. It was a "one of a kind" unique experience for me and is permanently etched in my mind. A standout favorite for me!

peregrina2000 · Jun 16, 2017

Oviedo to Avilés --- 29 km
I had walked this stage ten years ago, when we found ourselves on the extremely narrow shoulder of the very busy regional highway that connects Oviedo to Avilés. The route is now very well marked and safe.

The Albergue in Avilés is very nice, though I'm in a pension because a good friend from Madrid came up for a few days to walk with me and doesn't have all the pilgrim paraphernalia. And Avilés has a very nice historic core with a good ambiente.

I hear all the time about how unpleasant the stage from to Gijón to Avilés is. For some it may be a matter of time (though it's only one day longer), but I can't figure out why more people don't head towards Oviedo at the split after Villaviciosa, visit Valdedios and then go to Oviedo. From there back to Avilés is a nice walk.

peregrina2000 · Jun 17, 2017

Avilés to Muros
Not a spectacular stage but pleasant with more off-road than I remembered. The only frustrating thing was that the camino took you down to the beach town (plays de Salinas) and then back up to the headlands without taking us near the beach. But after 23 km we were in front of casa carmina which is one of the most well-loved albergues I have ever been in. 15€ and 10€ for an excellent dinner.

In the afternoon we took the bus to Cudillero and it is a very pretty if somewhat touristy town. Well worth a visit.

Muros to Soto de Luiña

We knew this was a very short stage so we were kind of leisurely about it all.
We got near a beach and had a great view from up top but then saw that the camino went away from the beach. But aha!! There was a sign saying 300 m to bar on the coast. Since we had such a short day, we jumped at the chance and had a great break at a beach-side cafe. Do not miss this stop.

Once in Soto de Luiña, there are many options. We didn't go to the albergue but found a wonderful apartment in Aptos Hortona. At 70€ for four, two bedrooms, two terraces, bath, full kitchen, it is a great price-quality ratio.

Since it's such a short stage, a 2 or 3 km walk to the beach is easy and well worth it. Lots of people enjoying the sun.

AlanSykes · Jun 18, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
Muros to Soto de Luiña

Once in Soto de Luiña, there are many options. We didn't go to the albergue but found a wonderful apartment in Aptos Hortona. At 70€ for four, two bedrooms, two terraces, bath, full kitchen, it is a great price-quality ratio.

Since it's such a short stage, a 2 or 3 km walk to the beach is easy and well worth it. Lots of people enjoying the sun.

Wondering if you're planning to go on the old "mountain" version of the camino, or the newer coastal route. I liked the upland version, with fabulous views left to the Asturias highlands, and right down over the sea.

peregrina2000 · Jun 18, 2017

alansykes said:
Wondering if you're planning to go on the old "mountain" version of the camino, or the newer coastal route. I liked the upland version, with fabulous views left to the Asturias highlands, and right down over the sea.

Just arrived in Cadavedo. It was absolutely spectacular. And I used your tracks! The camino has been changed in a few places since you walked but they were very helpful. So glad for all the forum help on this!

peregrina2000 · Jun 20, 2017

Just a quick update on the last two days. Cannot recommend the mountain route from Soto more highly. It is absolutely unbelievable. Extremely well marked, cleared tracks and only one short-ish rocky part on the descent. There are essentially two different parts to the route. The first part takes you up on forest tracks,and you get some good views of the ocean. Then a few K on the side of the traffic-free road. Then a turn off onto dirt, and a slog up to a cell phone tower. From there the views are to die for. We had an hour break there soaking it all in.

I had gone to the Soto albergue the night before to hear about the different alternatives from Pepe, the hospitalero. He clearly prefers the lower coastal route, but that maybe because he is the one who marked it. And I do know that he has done a good job getting some of that long stretch off the national highway. But he did paint the mountain route in a somewhat negative light, totally undeservedly in my opinion. It is definitely worth the extra effort, in my opinion.

We decided not to stay in one of the albergues in Cadavedo, but walked on to the next small town. Villademoros, I think. There are tourist apartments there, €15 each for pilgrims. Two bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen, nice lounging area, etc. We really enjoyed it. The place is also about 500 m from a very popular restaurant, where we had an excellent menu Del Día.

Yesterday, It was only 16 to the lovely little town of Luarca, with oh well located bar in the middle for coffee. When we got to Luarca, we decided to spend a couple of hours climbing around, enjoying the views, and eating some lunch. And then we went on six more K. I typically don't eat a meal until I'm done walking, and now I know why. It was a real slog. But anyway in the late afternoon we got to a small collection of houses on the highway named Otur. There's a roadside hotel, again 15 or €16 per pilgrim. And about a kilometer away from the supermarket and a very nice large sandy beach. Today we will probably be good pilgrims and return to the world of albergues.

peregrina2000 · Jun 21, 2017

Otur to La Caridad.

It's hot. The walk was 24 km, we think, not spectacularly beautiful but again was very happy with how much has been moved off road. Good places for breaks, especially the plane tree promenade with benches in Navia. About 4 km outside La Caridad I was ecstatic to find a Repsol station about two minutes off camino. We each consumed a liter of Aquarius in about 5 minutes.

The municipal albergue looks nice but one of our group had to take the bus and was waiting for us in the new (opened April this year) private albergue La Xana. It's right around the corner from the municipal. 11 euros, lovely backyard. It was just too hot for our normal stroll down to the beach, a couple of km away.

One more day of heat and then it looks like rain.

peregrina2000 · Jun 22, 2017

La Caridad to Ribadeo via Tapia and the coastal option

The Camino splits after about 5 or 6 km. Left for inland, right for Tapia and the coast. Can't miss it.

Tapia is right on the coast. We went down to the muelle where all the bars are, and we were disappointed to find them all shut tight at 9 or 9:30. "Son muy vagos aquí," (they're very lazy around here) is what a delivery man told me. We found someplace open in town and then started out to enjoy the coastal option. I saw that the arrows were taking me farther from the coast than my GPS tracks, so we stuck with my tracks. They first took us to Playa Paloma/s and from there we walked past beach after beach after beach. For some reason, the official camino doesn't really hug the coast though there is a perfectly good coastal trail. Somewhere around Playa de Serantes we merged with the camino. But I highly recommend the coast instead. When I get home I'll try to sort it out with my tracks and make them available. Total was about 26, so only a couple more than the "official" coastal camino option.

After a big lunch in Ribadeo, 8 of us got two cabs out to Playa Catedrales. After a couple hours there around low tide, we got cabs back. The cab is 15€ each way, so a great deal with 4 in the cab. Be sure to go at low tide--we talked to a German who went out earlier in the day, and he couldn't really even get on the beach. Tide info here:https://www.tide-forecast.com/locations/Ribadeo/tides/latest. It is an amazing place. Highly recommended. There is also a good coastal path, 18 km each way, but we were happy with the cab option.

We're in Galicia!

poogeyejr · Jun 22, 2017

Memories . . .

Thank you so much for all the detail, and for taking the time to write this . . .
I am having a wonderful time following you across Spain!

Kathy

peregrina2000 · Jun 22, 2017

Ribadeo to Lourenza. 28 or so.

We headed inland and won't see the ocean again. Another extremely well marked stage.

Rule number one--never pass up the chance to have coffee in an open bar (though I had already had a cup in my room thanks to my electric coil). After about 8 or 9 km we met two men with a donkey (going to put up poles for the famous white beans to climb). They told us we had two choices-- walk down to the highway and take s 400 m detour or stay on the camino and wait till the next bar in about 12 km. We did the backtrack. The town is San Vicente de Covelas.

There is also a new and VERY welcome bar in Vilamartin Grande after a tough ascent. Then down to Gondan and up and down to Lourenza.

The albergue is fine and clean. There are other private places, but we opted for the municipal. Decent meal, pretty dreary place, but we did have a visit to the bean museum in town. The beans from Lourenza are famous--fat white beans without skin. Too heavy to carry though!!

peregrina2000 · Jun 23, 2017

Today I only walked 8 km into Mondoñedo. I had gotten an email from a friend about 80 km away who had time to meet me for lunch, so I changed plans. It meant saying goodbye to my camino buddies. But that's a part of the drill so it was fine. Anyway,I was starting to get a tickle in my throat and a short day with a bed with sheets seemed to be just what the doctor ordered. So here I am in the spotless Pension Central. Very close to the cathedral. 30€ single, 40 double. Breakfast included. Tomorrow onto the albergue AXistral, only about 25 away. I've already heard from my pals who left me behind that it is lush.

getting close to Santiago!

SYates · Jun 24, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
... getting close to Santiago!

Hope to meet you here! Buen Camino, SY

peregrina2000 · Jun 26, 2017

To catch up on the last few days (and to take my mind off of this morning's incident), just a few things to note.

I was unable to find the new camino official leaving Mondoñedo and wound up on the complementario as did everyone I talked with. More info here.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-from-mondoñedo-to-abadín.48900/

But the bottom line is that I would try to find the official route if I were you! I do not understand why the hospitalera in Lourenza insists on painting such a dire picture of the new route.

Nothing new or exciting between O Xistral and Baamonde except that the Xunta is putting in crushed rock paths wide enough for a car with a vengeance. Jaime in O Xistral says that when he started his renovations four years ago all the camino paths were grass, dirt, etc. But over the years he has seen many bulldozers flattening and pouring in rock. It's awful to walk on and ugly to look at, but I won't start on that rant again.

Villalba is as uninspiring as ever but there were some nice medieval arched bridges in the area to offset the lack of charm.

From Baamonde, they Xunta has marked a new official camino that takes ten kms off the distance from Baamonde to Sobrado. If you take the well-marked alternative, the total is only about 30 instead of the 40 it is through Miraz. The camino businesses along the Miraz route (and there are 4 or 5 albergues) have joined together to fight the re-routing, and for now the Xunta has agreed to leave it alone. But a 30 km route to Sobrado may doom it anyway, even if both are left with mojones.

peregrina2000 · Jul 12, 2017

Though I'm back home, I want to finish up with these stages so I won't forget names and places.

Baamonde to Casa Roxica

After "the incident" I kept walking with three Spaniards who had come up while the guardia civil were talking to us. We decided to take a 150 m detour off route to have a coffee and process our thoughts at what looks like a very nice private albergue, Witericus.

My pals were going to stop in Miraz, and I decided that a little solo walking would be good, so I said good bye to them there and continued the ten km on to Casa Roxica. Leaving Miraz there are four km that are solitary and a bit desolate (rocky, scrub, etc), but I knew I was doing ok when I realized that I was more upset at all of the Xunta "improvements" to flatten, widen, and add crushed rock than I was at the possibility of another crazy man appearing on the Camino.

Casa Roxica is out in the middle of nowhere, nice facility, terrace for enjoying the afternoon. The owner makes dinner, it was fine, nothing special, but since it was the only game in town, all of us ate there and had a very nice dinner.

This makes for a VERY short stage into Sobrado the next day, but I decided to stop there and wait up for my friends from Miraz. You could carry on past Sobrado, there are several alternatives I heard about from others, but I decided to opt for companionship and the chance to re-visit the albergue in the monastery.

peregrina2000 · Jul 13, 2017

Casa Roxica to Sobrado -- 14 km

Mostly road walking, but there is a nice, short stretch in woods after the bar in Mesón. Unfortunately, there is also an ominous sign at the entrance to the woods announcing upcoming Xunta improvements to the trail.

The albergue in the monastery has been renovated since my last visit ten years ago. The beds all used to be above the kitchen area (which is still in the same place), but they are now all spread out over four or five rooms along one side of one of the cloisters. Bathrooms are much improved, very clean and with good showers. We had heard that they don't give out paper sheets, so we broughts ours with us from the night before. I don't know if it adds much to the hygiene, but there is something yucky about sleeping directly on an uncovered mattress.

The monastery is totally closed from 1:45 till 4:30, so you are either locked in or out, take your pick. We headed up to the Bar Real, a bit out of the center but it's the Sobrado restaurant "de toda la vida" before the burst of pilgrims. Family run, home cooking, nothing fancy but good and nutritious. Exploring the monastery in the late afternoon was interesting -- there are still plants and flowers growing in the cracks of the walls, there are still lots of spots of humidity, and there is still a huge need of repair and maintenance. But it is still pretty amazing to have the run of the monastery and to sleep there.

No need to add the details about the rest of the walk, though I will say that the new albergue The Way in Arzua is very nice. Pedrouzo/Arca was mobbed, and we were glad that one of our group had thought to call and reserve us all beds in Pensión Pedrouzo. 15 € each with two beds in the room and a shared bath.

AJGuillaume · Apr 28, 2018

peregrina2000 said:
From Baamonde, they Xunta has marked a new official camino that takes ten kms off the distance from Baamonde to Sobrado. If you take the well-marked alternative, the total is only about 30 instead of the 40 it is through Miraz. The camino businesses along the Miraz route (and there are 4 or 5 albergues) have joined together to fight the re-routing, and for now the Xunta has agreed to leave it alone. But a 30 km route to Sobrado may doom it anyway, even if both are left with mojones.

Hello @peregrina2000 , looks like you're enjoying your current walk.
Just a question about the new Camino from Baamonde avoiding Miraz: is there any accommodation along the way?
Buen Camino!

peregrina2000 · Apr 29, 2018

AJGuillaume said:
Hello @peregrina2000 , looks like you're enjoying your current walk.
Just a question about the new Camino from Baamonde avoiding Miraz: is there any accommodation along the way?
Buen Camino!

Hi AJ, I don’t think so but I’m not sure. I think you should post a separate question to see if you can find someone who has walked it. But if you want to divide the stage to Sobrado into two in any case, I would stick to the “old way” and stay either in Miraz or Roxica.

AJGuillaume · Apr 29, 2018

peregrina2000 said:
Hi AJ, I don’t think so but I’m not sure. I think you should post a separate question to see if you can find someone who has walked it. But if you want to divide the stage to Sobrado into two in any case, I would stick to the “old way” and stay either in Miraz or Roxica.

Thank you Laurie!
I was hoping to divide the new way into two sections

. I'll ask separately.
Buen Camino!

olaf-larsson · Apr 29, 2018

Thank you for your reports, @peregrina2000 ! I will start my first Camino on Saturday next week and your reports are very helpful.

I read in many different threads that Norte seems busier than previous years. I wonder if you run across any problems with full albergues and do you book any nights in advance?

Thanks you and buen camino

naplesdon · Apr 30, 2018

Laurie, so glad I found this thread while watching re-runs of Homeland. Between your notes and Michael's Wise Pilgrim Guide I know my Camino Norte will be a success. Thank you so much. It will be a combination of 20+km days and rest days from Laredo on 13 May to Santiago on 13 June and I'll drop in to see Sybille for sure. We have such a lovely community.

Barbdymond · May 25, 2018

peregrina2000 said:
Hi, forum friends,

I left my Baztan amigas in Pamplona and I'm now walking the Norte. I will try to post a few comments that might be helpful, but I'm sure you don't want to hear my blow-by-blow account of this very heavily traveled Camino.

Day 1--spectacular walk into San Sebastián. At the Guadalupe sanctuary, there is a split. My recommendation is the so called Alpine route. It is perfectly doable, no scrambling involved, and the views are great.

After the ferry, you will go up again. And about 4 km outside of San Sebastián, you will see another split. The Camino route goes left, and up to an asphalt road, while the GR sign to the right is on a beautiful dirt path through forestscand along the coast. There is absolutely no comparison. Take the GR 121.

My daughter and I are doing our first Camino and are suppose to start from June 2nd from St. Jean. I keep wavering back and forth about whether to go on the North trail or the Francis. I'm drawn to the water in life, but can't decide. Also really want to visit Pico National Park, just south of the Norte. Any advice?

shefollowsshells · May 29, 2018

peregrina2000 said:
Hi, forum friends,

I left my Baztan amigas in Pamplona and I'm now walking the Norte. I will try to post a few comments that might be helpful, but I'm sure you don't want to hear my blow-by-blow account of this very heavily traveled Camino.

Day 1--spectacular walk into San Sebastián. At the Guadalupe sanctuary, there is a split. My recommendation is the so called Alpine route. It is perfectly doable, no scrambling involved, and the views are great.

After the ferry, you will go up again. And about 4 km outside of San Sebastián, you will see another split. The Camino route goes left, and up to an asphalt road, while the GR sign to the right is on a beautiful dirt path through forestscand along the coast. There is absolutely no comparison. Take the GR 121.

Lori so great to see you are the Norte! I’ve been gone three months, flight home today and had no idea. You’ve been saying it was on your radar. I hope you live it as much as I do!

shefollowsshells · May 29, 2018

norelle said:
When I got to San Vincente......I kept walking to Serdio. Beautiful one bar village with a great albergue.
Buen Camino!

We did too!!! The auberge was simple simple but the little town was celebrating chestnuts and it was a sweet night!

Tinytrekker111 · Mar 11, 2020

Magwood said:
Buen camino Laurie. I have arrived at Santiago today after 32 days of walking. Just five more to go. Am planning on taking the Dos Faros route from Finisterre to Muxia. Hope I don't need to call out the rescue services!

Congratsulations! Do you have an itinerary for your trip?

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