A detour to Pancorbo?

[peregrina2000]

When I walked the Vasco Interior, we took the branch into Santo Domingo de la Calzada, so I missed the opportunity to walk through the gorge/desfiladero near Pancorbo. This year I’m hoping to walk the Viejo from Pamplona to Aguilar, and see that the route passes close to Pancorbo. The Viejo actually tracks the Vasco Interior from Salvatierra through Vitoria and on to Miranda de Ebro. From Miranda it detours north and east of the Vasco, heading to Baños de Sobrón. An obvious stage end on the Viejo would be Miranda de Ebro.

To those who have walked the Vasco through Miranda de Ebro and Pancorbo, how does this sound — Walk 18-20 km (pretty flat) from Puebla de Arganzón to Miranda, drop pack in albergue or hotel, and hop in a taxi to some spot to walk through the gorge and into Pancorbo. I could eat lunch there, head up to the castle, etc, etc, all without a pack.

For those of you who have walked this route, like @VNwalking, @SabsP, and @dick bird, can you recommend a good spot to start walking into the gorge? I have notes scribbled from somewhere that say — start walking at the Camping near km 305, but that’s only 3 km from Pancorbo, so I wonder if it would be a better idea to start further back, closer to Miranda. I expect that I have a good chunk of the day to enjoy the gorge and the town, so @SabsP if you have any good restaurant recommendations or recommendations of things to do in Pancorbo, that’s be super.

(Thanks to @VNwalking for the fabulous photo that reminded me that I want to do this! )

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I pass through Pancorbo with some frequency, on my way to Najera. If there's a good walk near there, I am also very interested! In the early days of the pilgrimage, back when pilgrims had to make a detour around what is now La Rioja, Pancorbo was an important stopping place.

 

[Takahiwai]

To those who have walked the Vasco through Miranda de Ebro and Pancorbo, how does this sound — Walk 18-20 km (pretty flat) from Puebla de Arganzón to Miranda, drop pack in albergue or hotel, and hop in a taxi to some spot to walk through the gorge and into Pancorbo. I could eat lunch there, head up to the castle, etc, etc, all without a pack.

I expect that I have a good chunk of the day to enjoy the gorge and the town, so @SabsP if you have any good restaurant recommendations or recommendations of things to do in Pancorbo, that’s be super.

(Thanks to @VNwalking for the fabulous photo that reminded me that I want to do this! )

Hi,
I walked the Via de Bayona in very late February - March, 2024, so fairly recently. On this camino, I carefully documented every stage with photos of every village and notable construction etc. Alas, a gang of thieves relieved me of my phone shortly after returning home, so my memories are just that, memories. I think I walked through a village called Ameyugo, before approaching Pancorbo. Not sure if that's accessible by public transport. I do heartily recommend the walk into Pancorbo - it's a lovely village, and the approach is stunning. If you do it, I hope you have better weather than I did. It's well way-marked, but you need to pay attention - not all the arrows are immediately apparent.

As for food, I will gladly recommend the Hotel Pancorbo restaurant, even though you do have to climb up to the main road for it - short and steep, but worth it. It's extremely popular with those travelling through, so they have a very good value menu del dia, a tempting wine list, and if you go a la carte, I vote for the delicious chuletillas de cordero.

There is definitely one building in the village where you can scan a QR code in order to book a visit. I wish I could remember what it was!

In any case, it's an unmissable place. If anyone stays there, I highly recommend a stroll out to the Hotel Restaurante El Molino de Pancorbo - great food, at least when I was last there.

 

[Takahiwai]

Pancorbo has a train station, btw - not sure if that's helpful.

 

[peregrina2000]

I think I walked through a village called Ameyugo, before approaching Pancorbo.

Ameyugo is about 3 kms before the Camping at km 305 which would make it a 6 km walk to Pancorbo. I also see on google maps that there is an “aparcamiento” for the gorge near there, which makes it seem like the obvious starting place would be Ameyugo. I’m sure people on the ground will be able to tell me where the best starting place is, but hey, this is always part of the fun.

Looks like both buses and trains from Pancorbo to Miranda are all either in morning or early afternoon, so I’ll either have to hitch a ride or take a cab. Interesting to see that the bus company runs buses through Trespaderne, Briviesca, Oña and Frias, all stops later on on the Viejo, so that’s helpful info to have.

I have walked through some spectacular gorges on my recent Caminos, especially the Lana, and I’m looking forward to a few more on the Aragonés/Viejo!

 

[VNwalking]

To those who have walked the Vasco through Miranda de Ebro and Pancorbo, how does this sound — Walk 18-20 km (pretty flat) from Puebla de Arganzón to Miranda, drop pack in albergue or hotel, and hop in a taxi to some spot to walk through the gorge and into Pancorbo. I could eat lunch there, head up

This is a super idea, Laurie.
If you take a cab, the place that would make the most sense to me to start walking would be the Cespa gas station after Ameyugo - the Camino goes right behind it (see orange pointer). That cuts out a stretch of asphalt and puts you right on track to go up the gorge. Then maybe you can take a train back?

Interesting to see that the bus company runs buses through Trespaderne, Briviesca, Oña and Frias, all stops later on on the Viejo, so that’s helpful info to have.

Oh! Very good to know. Gracias.

 

[J Willhaus]

Ok, I am re-reading the Great Westward Walk (translated by our @Rebekah Scott ) and our pilgrim detours away from Pancorbo as you did on your first walk @peregrina2000 . I knew I had seen it referenced recently, but had to go back and check to be certain.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I will be on the Vasco interior in May. By the time my son and I get to Vitoria, we will be staying two nights. The next night we are hoping to stay at the Pilgrim Hostel in La Pueblo de Arganzon, followed by Miranda de Ebro the following night. Both are just shy of 20 km each day. In Pancorbo I emailed the Pilgrim Hostel and had a quick reply of a tentative reservation.
I am very excited to be staying in Pancorbo, especially after seeing @VNwalking's fantastic photo. I really want to hike up to the ruins via that metal stairway as I love climbing towers, etc. I do have a fear of heights, but I did notice the photo shows a hand railing, which makes all the difference to me.
I have no plans to take a bus, train or taxi, (short of an illness or injury) once we start walking at our start.

 

[SabsP]

I will be on the Vasco interior in May. By the time my son and I get to Vitoria, we will be staying two nights. The next night we are hoping to stay at the Pilgrim Hostel in La Pueblo de Arganzon, followed by Miranda de Ebro the following night. Both are just shy of 20 km each day. In Pancorbo I emailed the Pilgrim Hostel and had a quick reply of a tentative reservation.
I am very excited to be staying in Pancorbo, especially after seeing @VNwalking's fantastic photo. I really want to hike up to the ruins via that metal stairway as I love climbing towers, etc. I do have a fear of heights, but I did notice the photo shows a hand railing, which makes all the difference to me.
I have no plans to take a bus, train or taxi, (short of an illness or injury) once we start walking at our start.

If the albergue is not an option the hostal Pancorbo is decent and has a good restaurant.

Hostal Pancorbo - Pancorbo | Hostal | Gronze.com

Información del Hostal Hostal Pancorbo, en Pancorbo: precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[VNwalking]

I do have a fear of heights, but I did notice the photo shows a hand railing, which makes all the difference to me.

It's not actually that awful. And the view is out of this world.


Pancorbo would be a super place for an active rest day, because there are many paths from there into the hills.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thanks, ladies for your replies (and pics to whet my enthusiasm). I'm glad Laurie started this thread because beyond reading about the day's walk into Pancorbo on Gronze, I knew nothing else until I saw V's photo/s.
Not sure what time we arrive, but hope we can at least do the stairs; maybe more.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi Vera, approximately how long did it take you to walk the stairwell and back? Was the yellow "circle" hike shown on your map a separate second day in Pancorbo? I'm just trying to get an idea of time needed. I only have the one partial day, but it is a longish day for me at 23+ km to get to Briviesca.

 

[VNwalking]

approximately how long did it take you to walk the stairwell and back?

Looking at the timestamps on my photos, I'd say an hour and 15 minutes, with a lot of time to stop and gawk. It was a stroll in the afternoon.

Was the yellow "circle" hike shown on your map a separate second day in Pancorbo?

No, it was much less than that. Here's what I did, more or less - on a zoomed-in version of the same map. The 1st photo shows the route I took, the second is the same thing minus the overlay so you can actually see the map. (Drawing the overlay, I didn't include the part to the castle and overlook. You can see it's not a long out and back from the indicated path.)

 

[peregrina2000]

I am very excited to be staying in Pancorbo, especially after seeing @VNwalking's fantastic photo. I really want to hike up to the ruins via that metal stairway as I love climbing towers, etc

I wasn’t sure what stairs Chrissy and VN were talking about till I found VN’s pictures of the stairs up to the castle at Pancorbo, on the one day at a time thread.

Am I right that the ruins of the castle are essentially in the town itself?

 

[SabsP]

I wasn’t sure what stairs Chrissy and VN were talking about till I found VN’s pictures of the stairs up to the castle at Pancorbo, on the one day at a time thread.

Am I right that the ruins of the castle are essentially in the town itself?

I feel sooo lazy that I did not join @VNwalking
I was lying on my bed and following the Belgian elections that day and drinking something in the bar downstairs .

 

[VNwalking]

Am I right that the ruins of the castle are essentially in the town itself?

Yes but right above it. On that snaggle-toothed ridge you can see behind the church as you walk into town.

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow, beautiful. Hope to be there in June. Thanks so much for the help, amigas.

 

[C clearly]

If the albergue is not an option the hostal Pancorbo is decent and has a good restaurant.

I agree. Here is an old thread where some of us nominated it for the truck stop honour roll.

A photo of the front, and one of the view out the back from the dining room.

 

[peregrina2000]

I agree. Here is an old thread where some of us nominated it for the truck stop honour roll.

A photo of the front, and one of the view out the back from the dining room.

Well I hadn’t been planning to sleep in Pancorbo (going back to Miranda de Ebro to continue on the Viejo), but VN has suggested a few more deviations that look pretty well-traveled and enticing. I’m sure this is just the tip of the iceberg

 

[C clearly]

Well I hadn’t been planning to sleep in Pancorbo

That's OK. The great truck stops should not be pursued as "destinations." They are welcome surprises.

 

[Takahiwai]

That's OK. The great truck stops should not be pursued as "destinations." They are welcome surprises.

I must respectfully disagree, at least partially! I actively seek them out, especially if they are still going strong on roads which are no longer in great use (e.g the one at La Brujula services on the way to Burgos, which stands amidst the abandoned dreams of other roadside 'attractions' in the same lay-by).

 

[C clearly]

the one at La Brujula services on the way to Burgos,

Yes, that is also on the honour roll!

Maybe I'll take back my statement about them not being destinations, at least occasionally.

 

[VNwalking]

some of us nominated it for the truck stop honour roll.

A fabulous place! The one in La Brujala is wonderful, yes. But this one has the view.

 

[SabsP]

Some views.
Towards Pancorbo.
View from hostalroom. Aside from the ventilator quite gorgeous.
The sunday rushhour at the restaurant. Full of locals of course.