5 “Unproven” Facts About Norte

Michael Mattalo · May 22, 2023

Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

CTLawGal · May 22, 2023

Having just completed Norte to Oviedo and Primitivo and a bit drunk having arrived this afternoon in Santiago….

#5 - distances on Norte: my experience is that my Apple watch consistently showed significant more distance than projected. Like maybe 3-5 miles more. After a while I stopped carrying and just assumed the walk would be longer, but found it extremely frustrating the first few tired days, especially after all the elevation gain.

#4 - where’s the veg? Potatoes yes, sometimes salad, but cooked greens?

#3 - rain was only a mi it factor for me, thankfully. Never used my rain gear u Tim feel I to Primitivo. At least I didn’t bro g it for nothing!

New -

6. so many paved roads, didn’t expect that.

7. Wished I had figured out sooner to take partial rest days get to out of Bilbao and Santander - Better to take train out and walk 5-6 miles than either walk it or rest an extra day.

8. Wasn’t prepared for all the green beauty and early flowering along the route (April and May). Wow! The coastlines are amazing but the flowers and singing birds made each day a delight.

9. Will come back if I think of anything more

trecile · May 22, 2023

I'm on the Norte for the second time. Currently in San Sebastián after starting in Biarritz.
I didn't do the "Alpinista" route the last time because it was raining and I was too jet lagged. I discovered that the real name of this route is El Purgatorio, and it earns that name. For anyone who has walked the Francés and thinks that first 8 km to Orisson was steep - it was a walk in the park compared to the first km on El Purgatorio!
Agree with all the arrows pointing uphill - if there's a fork in the road you know that you will be taking the uphill option, unless of course it's a super steep descent, like into Markina.

FSP · May 23, 2023

You nailed it. The Norte reminded me of my long childhood walks to school and back -uphill both ways. I remember Boo well. I did the optional coastal walk out of Santander which I think triples the mileage to Boo but it was the most spectacular coastal scenery I've ever seen. It's still my favourite stretch of all caminos. The posted mileages are almost always inaccurate. I remember at one albergue the host mentioned the Spanish joke of putting signs around that indicate everywhere is just three more km but what is meant is that it's just three more KM to the next 3 KM sign. I didn't experience much paved walking because I researched and used all the well documented alternates detailed on this forum. Enjoy the remainder of your Norte it just gets more impressive as you go.
Frank

Pacific NW pilgrim · May 23, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):..

Thanks for the observations! I just arrived in Irun about an hour ago and I'll start walking Thursday. Good to know what to expect!
Buen Camino!

RibbonRomanceAuthor · May 23, 2023

All of this resonates with my experience on the Norte last year. A 'beach route' I took up and over to get to the gorgeous beach made me feel like I was in Jurassic Park! And a number of the ups on precarious terrain had me concentrating only on staying alive. At one point my toe seemed close to touching my shin. I didn't thing feet could bend that way. So much up! Even when finally reaching my stop for the night, it was up to get to the door!

MSCT · May 23, 2023

Yes, to everything! I kept thinking if I had to go up one more climb…. However, I too, didn’t hike too much on asphalt overall (and when I did it was just part of the very beautiful journey of the Norte and I accepted when I did as part of the bigger picture even though my knees hated it! ) Sooo absolutely beautiful and memorable! I LOVED every step and occurrence on the Norte!!! I too, absolutely racked up the “extra” km!!! Bonus though, Santiago allowed me to use true calculated km as per my Fitbit on my Compestela at the end - yay! I love being part of the Norte “fellowship” of those past and “Ultreia et suseia” to those on, or going on the journey spectacular and very memorable Camino of a lifetime! xx

PS I finally was able to order some grilled vegetables in Ribadeo - yum! (Better close to the end than not at all.)

Dennis Pack · May 23, 2023

In regards to #3 ... All churches were built on top of hills ... I'm sure

Raimo · May 23, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Tässä ovat "todistamattomia" ajatuksiani Camino Nortesta ... vain huvin vuoksi (vähän):
1. Pohjois-Espanjassa ei ole neliömetriä tasaista maata. Ei missään, nada, älä edes yritä katsoa.
2. Kun sääennuste ehdottaa 20 %:n sateen todennäköisyyttä, se todella tarkoittaa, että 90 %:n varmuudella sataa, taattu.
3. On lähes 100 %:n todennäköisyys, että jokainen kohtaamasi keltainen nuoli on ylämäkeen… ei vitsi. Onko se vain minä?
4. Vihannesten lisääminen ravintolan ruokalistalle on lain vastaista. Huolimatta kaikista kauniista puutarhojen pelloista, joita ohitan, on mahdotonta saada kunnollista kasvisannosta millään ruokalistalla. Tämä on vain kiusoittelua, olen varma.
5. Kaikki etäisyysmerkit on kalibroitu täysin väärin huolimatta siitä, mitä jokaisessa oppaassa on ilmoitettu. Miksi uusin Garmin GPS -kelloni näyttää paljon enemmän kilometrejä kuin mikään opas ehdottaa. Se on kuntohuijaus… LOL.

Joka tapauksessa, voit lisätä omasi. Olen tällä hetkellä Boo de Piélagosissa sateisena iltapäivänä ja halusin jakaa "ajatukseni" … LOL! Buen Camino kaikille!

Totta joka sana. Kun nouset jyrkkää mäkeä ylös, ajattelet, että seuraavan mutkan takana tulee tasainen osuus tai alamäkeä, väärä vastaus, ylämäki vain jatkuu ja jatkuu...

oaklandgirl · May 23, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

Only had one week did Irun to Bilbao. I loved the climbing and totally agree with you that the flats are few and far between. I also found that when I was on the flats I was craving the climbs. Oh yeah, lots of fresh veggies to be had at the local markets but if you want an ensalada at a restaurant expect a chunk of tuna on top.
Climb on pilgrim

WayWalker · May 23, 2023

If you think of the high cliffs of northern coast of Spain it makes sense that most towns and villages are down where rivers and streams run into the Atlantic. Then you have to hike up and over the steep headlands and back down. For me the most spectacular Camino to date!

jabrown · May 23, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

Here’s one. I was sad every time I went down hill because I knew I would soon be going uphill! Yes, there is no fresh produce, unless you’re willing to go to a expensive restaurant at a time you’d rather be in bed.

pelerine · May 23, 2023

FSP said:
…because I researched and used all the well documented alternates detailed on this forum. Enjoy the remainder of your Norte it just gets more impressive as you go.

Hello FSP! I would like to walk the Norte again using coastal alternatives. However I cannot walk next to sheer cliffs. How was your experience - apart from being wonderful?! Do you think I might try it?

trecile · May 23, 2023

Dennis Pack said:
In regards to #3 ... All churches were built on top of hills ... I'm sure

I think it's a law that they have to be.

mlabar · May 23, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

Did Norte in 2019 - agree about all the above! Especially about there being no flat land in Northern Spain… it’s either up or down, not much in between

SusanBluffs · May 23, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

CTLawGal · May 23, 2023

pelerine said:
Hello FSP! I would like to walk the Norte again using coastal alternatives. However I cannot walk next to sheer cliffs. How was your experience - apart from being wonderful?! Do you think I might try it?

I have similar fear of heights. I did almost all of the coastal alternatives and managed it. If you’re taking pictures, just stop walking while you’re finding/taking your shot (!). In Ribadesella I started on the non-coastal path and used a cross road to get to coastal path halfway thru. The path was in places a little too close for me to sheer drops, after about an hour I crossed back to the non-coastal path so that added distance to what for me was my longest day of over 40 km. But the Norte coastal no paths are spectacular. Loved every minute. If you feel like you can handle it, definitely worth it. I also got a
Little turned around on that walk near a stream, I followed the path by the stream using the Wise Pilgrim app, but couldn’t figure out where to cross because it wasn’t marked and the app showed the crossing in wrong place. Finally found the crossing point with the help of a Spaniard walking his dog. Do not follow the stream path!! Cross over the rocks before the path starts to follow the stream.

RibbonRomanceAuthor · May 23, 2023

On the Norte, which is not marked as well as the CF, there were times when I came to a fork in the road in a forest. The only yellow I could find was on the leaves. I was able to use an app that tracked me so I could see where I was on a hill. I knew that if I was at the top, I could go down but if I was in the middle, I had to keep on climbing.
Also once in a similar situation, someone had made a big arrow out of twigs. I followed that successfully, trusting that the Camino provides.

Former member 92300 · May 23, 2023

No matter what albergue you are going to - you have to climb one more hill to get there!

Former member 92300 · May 23, 2023

RibbonRomanceAuthor said:
On the Norte, which is not marked as well as the CF, there were times when I came to a fork in the road in a forest. The only yellow I could find was on the leaves. I was able to use an app that tracked me so I could see where I was on a hill. I knew that if I was at the top, I could go down but if I was in the middle, I had to keep on climbing.
Also once in a similar situation, someone had made a big arrow out of twigs. I followed that successfully, trusting that the Camino provides.

I actually thought the Norte was better marked. I looked at my GPS way less frequently on both the Norte and Primitivo.

J.Patrick · May 23, 2023

My companion on the Portuguese route asked me if the Norte was anything like it. I asked him if he remembered that one day on the Portuguese, where we crawled up that "mountain" that nearly defeated us? He remembered it vividly. I told him, "That's every day on the Norte."

But the beauty, and the coast were worth every uphill step.

As for food, I was there in green melon season!!!! So sweet. And I learned to get Padron Peppers whenever they were on the menu, an observation often repeated on the Forum.

david marquez · May 23, 2023

trecile said:
I'm on the Norte for the second time. Currently in San Sebastián after starting in Biarritz.
I didn't do the "Alpinista" route the last time because it was raining and I was too jet lagged. I discovered that the real name of this route is El Purgatorio, and it earns that name. For anyone who has walked the Francés and thinks that first 8 km to Orisson was steep - it was a walk in the park compared to the first km on El Purgatorio!
Agree with all the arrows pointing uphill - if there's a fork in the road you know that you will be taking the uphill option, unless of course it's a super steep descent, like into Markina.

When I walked up El Purgatorio on April 4th 2017 I was stunned by that first kilometer up. My pack was almost 35 lbs, and I was sidestepping up the hill like a skier! In my opinion that was the hardest kilometer I encountered on either the del Norte or the Primitivo, although there was a long downhill on the primitivo that was much more painful for my feet and knees.

Camino Chrissy · May 23, 2023

Ahhh, the glorious Norte! I concur with nearly all of the above posts, and many of them brought back good memories. I was thankful to have very little rain and no wind in mid-April the year I walked the first half before turning on to the Primitivo.

DarinaDC · May 24, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

Jaime Carrollo · May 24, 2023

trecile said:
I think it's a law that they have to be.

Closer to heaven!

Daddyfrog · May 25, 2023

What can I add - pretty much agree with all that has been said. My wife and I walked the Norte in 2018 and my abiding memory - apart from the beauty - will always be the rain! It rained pretty well every day from Irun until well into Galicia. We had everything from a fine mist to a full on gale with torrential rain, and everything in between! Would I do it again? In a heartbeat!

FSP · May 25, 2023

pelerine said:
Hello FSP! I would like to walk the Norte again using coastal alternatives. However I cannot walk next to sheer cliffs. How was your experience - apart from being wonderful?! Do you think I might try it?

Hi, no need to worry about sheer cliffs. The trails i walked never felt sketchy. There is one alternate section that has a reputation for being sketchy. It is the coastal path out of Orinon to Liendo-Hazas. I avoided that part. I used the Wise Pilgrim Guide book and app on my trip. If you a fit and train for a great but challenging hike you can do it. I was 63 when I did it.
Frank

AlexC · May 26, 2023

pelerine said:
Hello FSP! I would like to walk the Norte again using coastal alternatives. However I cannot walk next to sheer cliffs. How was your experience - apart from being wonderful?! Do you think I might try it?

I have vertigo and so far so good, I am in Orio now. I will let you know if I find any parts too difficult.

Celi Anatrella · May 27, 2023

FSP said:
You nailed it. The Norte reminded me of my long childhood walks to school and back -uphill both ways. I remember Boo well. I did the optional coastal walk out of Santander which I think triples the mileage to Boo but it was the most spectacular coastal scenery I've ever seen. It's still my favourite stretch of all caminos. The posted mileages are almost always inaccurate. I remember at one albergue the host mentioned the Spanish joke of putting signs around that indicate everywhere is just three more km but what is meant is that it's just three more KM to the next 3 KM sign. I didn't experience much paved walking because I researched and used all the well documented alternates detailed on this forum. Enjoy the remainder of your Norte it just gets more impressive as you go.
Frank

Hi FSP! Do you mind sharing those alternatives to avoid pavement, please?

Celi Anatrella · May 27, 2023

RibbonRomanceAuthor said:
On the Norte, which is not marked as well as the CF, there were times when I came to a fork in the road in a forest. The only yellow I could find was on the leaves. I was able to use an app that tracked me so I could see where I was on a hill. I knew that if I was at the top, I could go down but if I was in the middle, I had to keep on climbing.
Also once in a similar situation, someone had made a big arrow out of twigs. I followed that successfully, trusting that the Camino provides.

What app did you use to track you if you don't mind sharing, please.

Celi Anatrella · May 27, 2023

Daddyfrog said:
What can I add - pretty much agree with all that has been said. My wife and I walked the Norte in 2018 and my abiding memory - apart from the beauty - will always be the rain! It rained pretty well every day from Irun until well into Galicia. We had everything from a fine mist to a full on gale with torrential rain, and everything in between! Would I do it again? In a heartbeat!

What month did you walk the Norte?

trecile · May 27, 2023

Celi Anatrella said:
What app did you use to track you if you don't mind sharing, please.

I use the Buen Camino app which shows my location via GPS and also where I am on a climb.

The line in this picture was my location when I took the screenshot.

APP del Camino de Santiago Buen Camino 2014 - 2024

Aplicación del Camino de Santiago profesional, con mapas, perfiles, alojamientos, planificador de etapas, a pie o en bici (Btt), en idiomas y actualizada.

www.editorialbuencamino.com

JWB · May 27, 2023

Celi Anatrella said:
Do you mind sharing those alternatives to avoid pavement, please?

See this excellent thread re alternatives. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/coastal-alternatives-to-the-nortes-asphalt.49578/

Celi Anatrella · May 27, 2023

trecile said:
I use the Buen Camino app which shows my location via GPS and also where I am on a climb.

The line in this picture was my location when I took the screenshot.

View attachment 147893

APP del Camino de Santiago Buen Camino 2014 - 2024

Aplicación del Camino de Santiago profesional, con mapas, perfiles, alojamientos, planificador de etapas, a pie o en bici (Btt), en idiomas y actualizada.

www.editorialbuencamino.com

Thank you kindly!

JanPhoenix · May 27, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

Michael, I just returned from the Norte (Irun to Santiago) and have to say, your assessment is fantastic and made me laugh out loud!!! Thanks for encapsulating the Norte! We did pretty well with vegetables…certainly a lot of ensalada mixta (ask for it “sin atún” / without tuna) and lovely plates of grilled veggies in many places. A friend we met was vegan and the 3 comidas we had with her in vegan restaurants were among the best meals of the whole Norte.

As for the rain, as I look back on our photos, many of them are with our rain ponchos. Yes, 10% chance of rain means you should keep your poncho handy all day. Mostly it was fine…except unfortunately for the first week out of Irun where we had some torrential rains on those tough climbs…I don’t need to do that part again, but it became a badge of honor for those of us who started that week!

Of the 3 Caminos I’ve done (Francés from SJDP, Portugués from Lisboa, and Norte), this was definitely the hardest on my feet. My trusty over the ankle boots that I wear for all hikes just could not meet the challenge of the Norte’s pavement. I bought some Hokas in Gijón and the sales guy chastised me for wearing my hard boots. I was one of many that bought softer padded shoes on the way…but found I had to trade off. Easier on my blisters but I really missed my ankle support. Good luck to all on finding the right balance!

TaraWalks · May 27, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

Currently on the Norte and agree with it all

JanPhoenix · May 27, 2023

TaraWalks said:
Currently on the Norte and agree with it all

One other thing about navigation…I never used GPS apps on the Frances or Portugues. The signage was pretty good. But on the Norte we found it to be essential…there were just so many “variants”. We learned the lesson of checking GPS frequently as it was easy to miss a turn (and make for considerably more mileage). We went back and forth between Wise pilgrim app and Far Out…they would give us different info. Sometimes there were just too many choices! Before we left, we thought we would always select the more scenic, non-pavement, but longer routes. Ha ha! We weren’t so proud and pristine after aching feet and legs set in!

John Cook · May 27, 2023

When I walked the Norte in April/May last year I found the opposite regarding the weather, compared to the OP. I think on every day that I saw a weather forecast, it mentioned rain. In practice I had a few quick hailstorms in the very beginning of April and 1 day of rain, about three weeks in. Every other day was warmer and sunnier than forecast.
One thing I remember about the route is that it always took me onto a footpath when, 2kms later, I could see a petrol station on the road I'd been diverted off . My time on the Norte last year and the VdlP/Sanabres this year has really taught me to appreciate these oases when I find one.
There is a flat part of the Norte and it seemed to go on forever; that bridge to Ribadeo! It terrified me!

Camino Chrissy · May 27, 2023

John Cook said:
There is a flat part of the Norte and it seemed to go on forever; that bridge to Ribadeo! It terrified me!

I walked over that bridge last month and I too was quite scared! I always take many pictures on my Caminos, but I was too scared to stop and take my phone out...I just wanted it to be over with, getting from one side to the other! It went on and on and on, and felt like it took forever.

trecile · May 27, 2023

JanPhoenix said:
Before we left, we thought we would always select the more scenic, non-pavement, but longer routes. Ha ha! We weren’t so proud and pristine after aching feet and legs set in!

Yesterday on the final stretch into Gernika I saw another climb for those walking the Camino while the cycling route was all downhill - I took the cycling route.

FernandoVigil · May 27, 2023

- “Up” is not a direction. It’s an enemy! And it’s close ally “Down” is sure to follow.

- Northern Spain is the Basque Strategic Up Reserve.

- The person above you on the bunk bed will need to get up to use the bathroom - immediately after you finally fall asleep. And this will happen at least 3 times a night.

- The “nice“” pilgrim in the bunk next to you will get up at least 30 minutes before the earliest time you considered waking up. And the 47,000,000 lumen flashlight they use to pack their gear will shine directly in your face at least 7 times in the process.

- If you have met new people and are having a great evening together over drinks, the clocks will magically advance to 3 minutes before your albergue locks it’s doors.

- There are so many yellow arrows you can’t possibly get lost - Until you miss the arrows and get lost. …again.

- No matter who tells you that the town you are looking for is just over the next hill, there will always be more hills - and possibly many more hills - between you and your stop.

- The moment you abandon something or mail it ahead to Santiago because you have not used it, you can be assured you will regret your error within 48 hours.

- Despite all the trials and tribulations on these lists, there is nowhere else we’d rather be.

Daddyfrog · May 28, 2023

Celi Anatrella said:
What month did you walk the Norte?

May and early June

Karl Oz · May 28, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

I'm with you on the vegetables (and I don't mean that ubiquitous 1960's salad based on iceberg lettuce!)

Beachcreature · May 28, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

Karl Oz said:
I'm with you on the vegetables (and I don't mean that ubiquitous 1960's salad based on iceberg lettuce!)

I love to hear these reflections. My daughter and I will take to the Norte in just one week. I am trying to figure out if I really need a cell service plan or if I can just use WhatsApp on WiFi when I get into the villages. My two thoughts are that I would like to know remaining distance For the day as we are walking, but it sounds like there are distance markers. Also, a couple of you mentioned need h to use your gps along the way. Wondering how often that happened and if it is worth spending the $100 for a month of service. I would love to get your thoughts on this. Thanks!

trecile · May 28, 2023

Beachcreature said:
My two thoughts are that I would like to know remaining distance For the day as we are walking,

The Buen Camino app does this - at the top of the screen it shows how far you are to the next town, and you can keep swiping left until it shows the distance until the town you are stopping in.

Also, if you set up your stages it will show the remaining distance in your current stage.

Beachcreature · May 28, 2023

trecile said:
The Buen Camino app does this - at the top of the screen it shows how far you are to the next town, and you can keep swiping left until it shows the distance until the town you are stopping in.

View attachment 148000

Also, if you set up your stages it will show the remaining distance in your current stage.

View attachment 148001

Thank you so much! That looks like a great tool. I guess I would need WiFi for this to work without a service plan though, right? I can’t imagine that there is much coverage, am I right? Trying to save the $100 if I can.

ezbeer · May 28, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.
3. There is almost a 100% chance that every yellow arrow you encounter will be uphill … no kidding. Is it just me?
4. It is against the law to put vegetables on a restaurant menu. Despite all the beautiful fields of gardens I pass, it is impossible to have a decent serving of vegetables on any menu. This is just a tease I am sure.
5. The distance markers are all calibrated completely wrong, despite what every guidebook indicates. Why is it that my latest Garmin GPS clocks way more km than any guide suggests. It is a fitness scam … LOL.

Anyway, please feel free to add your own. I am in Boo de Piélagos at the moment on a rainy afternoon and wanted to shared my “thoughts” … LOL! Buen Camino everyone!

Agree with all 5 points

trecile · May 28, 2023

Beachcreature said:
Thank you so much! That looks like a great tool. I guess I would need WiFi for this to work without a service plan though, right? I can’t imagine that there is much coverage, am I right? Trying to save the $100 if I can.

No, you don't need an Internet connection for it to work. It works offline off of GPS.
Have you thought of getting a Spanish sim? They are pretty inexpensive - there are lots of threads on the forum here: phones/apps/gps/maps

Beachcreature · May 28, 2023

Oooo. That is all good news! And thank you so much for that link. I knew that others must have had the same thoughts I appreciate the guidance!!

WGroleau · May 29, 2023

Michael Mattalo said:
Here are my “unproven” thoughts about the Camino Norte … just for fun (somewhat):
1. There is not one square meter of flat land in northern Spain. Nowhere, nada, don’t even try to look.
2. When the weather forecast suggests a 20% chance of rain, they really mean there is a 90% certainty it will rain, guaranteed.

"The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain"
I use to respond, "that's because Spain is mainly a plain" until I actually went to Spain and discovered it isn't. That said, the meseta does exist and was very rainy and muddy the week I was on it.

adam lapp · May 29, 2023

Just did the pur

trecile said:
I'm on the Norte for the second time. Currently in San Sebastián after starting in Biarritz.
I didn't do the "Alpinista" route the last time because it was raining and I was too jet lagged. I discovered that the real name of this route is El Purgatorio, and it earns that name. For anyone who has walked the Francés and thinks that first 8 km to Orisson was steep - it was a walk in the park compared to the first km on El Purgatorio!
Agree with all the arrows pointing uphill - if there's a fork in the road you know that you will be taking the uphill option, unless of course it's a super steep descent, like into Markina.

Did the purgatorio route today. Wow. I’ve done both Frances and Portugues and I think this little stretch was the steepest. They are not lying when they say you can crawl up it. I used my hands. Face maybe 2 feet from the ground. But beautiful views and like the Napoleon way lots of animals on top, many horses blocking the trail seemingly asleep. If I had known how steep the climb was out of Pasajes de San Pedro, I may have not done it. Those stairs killed me at the end of the day.

Dojo · May 29, 2023

I am doing the Norte from San Sebastian in August. I appreciate all the information and guidance regarding alternative routes. Having done the Frances and Portuguese without GPS or apps, this will test me both mentally and physically. Looking at downloading the apps this week.

AlexC · May 30, 2023

jeanineonthecamino said:
I actually thought the Norte was better marked. I looked at my GPS way less frequently on both the Norte and Primitivo.

Me too. I am only using my app to track my miles, but found the yellow arrows everywhere with the exception of when getting into a couple of towns Zauratz, Markina. I got a little lost, but the all trails app is awesome. It beeps when you go the wrong way. I still have a lot to go though.

AlexC · May 30, 2023

Dojo said:
I am doing the Norte from San Sebastian in August. I appreciate all the information and guidance regarding alternative routes. Having done the Frances and Portuguese without GPS or apps, this will test me both mentally and physically. Looking at downloading the apps this week.

Camino Tool, All trails and Norte from Wise Pelegrín are great.

TravellingMan22 · Jul 25, 2023

Camino Chrissy said:
I walked over that bridge last month and I too was quite scared! I always take many pictures on my Caminos, but I was too scared to stop and take my phone out...I just wanted it to be over with, getting from one side to the other! It went on and on and on, and felt like it took forever.

Yes I have a very extreme fears of heights and I didn't think I could cross that bridge - it was one of the scariest things I have ever done. Meanwhile the vast majority without a fear of heights didn't even give it a second thought!

My thread at the time which is quite entertaining I think

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/ribadeo-bridge.70806/#post-941895

poogeyejr · Jul 26, 2023

Pacific NW pilgrim said:
Thanks for the observations! I just arrived in Irun about an hour ago and I'll start walking Thursday. Good to know what to expect!
Buen Camino!

How did it go? What did YOU think?

Kathy

Clay7011 · Tuesday at 4:30 PM

Planning on walking Norte-Primitivo starting about June 10, 2025. Are the albergues very busy at that time and also what will the weather be? I did this the end of August and September of 2017 and...

5 “Unproven” Facts About Norte

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