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  1. MarkEveleigh

    The price of coffee in Spain and the perplexing economics of it

    Many cafes make very little profit on their coffee. With very good café con leche sometimes still available for a euro that's not surprising. I'm a HUGE fan of fresh orange juice and try to have a glass each morning to fuel my hikes. Relatively speaking though it is certainly NOT cheap (even in...
  2. MarkEveleigh

    September Packing List (CF starting in SJPdP)

    The Buff is so incredibly useful - it's also a warm extra layer under a cap/hot on a cold morning and a wonderful cooling mechanism (dipped a cold stream) on a hot afternoon. I've never once regretted carrying my hammock...except maybe on Extremaduran plains where there wasn't a tree in sight! Haha.
  3. MarkEveleigh

    Walking with a pinched nerve in my back

    Our symptoms are very similar. I'm no doctor so don't take my word for it but it certainly sounds to me like you have what my doctor diagnosed as meralgia paresthetica. (It's got a name that makes it sound a lot more scary than it is). About a third of the way into my 1225km hike I started...
  4. MarkEveleigh

    LIVE from the Camino Vía Serrana Nov-Dec 2022

    This sounds like such an appealing route! I would love to head this way sometime soon. I walked from Gibraltar to Seville via Jimena de la Frontera, Arcos and Las Cabezas de San Juan. It took six days but from your pictures @jungleboy this 10-day route through Ronda looks even more picturesque...
  5. MarkEveleigh

    Food glorious Food

    Some wonderful recommendations in this post! There are only two regional delicacies (albeit from the Via de la Plata) that I'd prefer to wipe from my memory: 1) stewed cock's combs in El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino 2) nuggets de oreja (pig-ear nuggets)...which I finally sampled in Zamora and...
  6. MarkEveleigh

    3-week Via de la Plata / French Way / Camino del Invierno combo

    Great to hear from you. We've walked much of the same route it seems. I have not done the Fisterra-Muxia bit (but I started by walking from Gibraltar to Seville). I'll check your blog out for sure. I plan to walk Almeria to Merida next Spring - and perhaps continue to Lisbon...although it will...
  7. MarkEveleigh

    Mozárabe from Málaga

    It's great to see this post and so much useful information. I'm also planning on walking the Mozárabe at roughly the same time next year with my wife. (We plan to start in Almeria, however, and walk to Merida.) Like you @Badgerbag I've also struggled to find info so it's wonderful to see so many...
  8. MarkEveleigh

    September Packing List (CF starting in SJPdP)

    I've found a Buff to serve wonderfully for a sleep mask. Also handy on dusty trails and as sun protection not the back of my neck. (Day after day with the sun rising at your back you will appreciate it!)
  9. MarkEveleigh

    September Packing List (CF starting in SJPdP)

    I would highly recommend travelling with a water-filter bottle. (There are several recommendable brands on the market but I've always used LifeStraw). You're walking the CF so are likely to be well-supplied with water along the way but carrying a filter give you the option of refilling even from...
  10. MarkEveleigh

    Which way to go...?

    With two weeks to walk I would absolutely recommend the Camino del Invierno. I walked it in June (but started in Astorga to add the days over Cruz de Ferro and to Ponferrada). The route was breathtakingly beautiful and still extremely wild. We estimate an average of 8-10 other hikers on each...
  11. MarkEveleigh

    56 y/o, traveling alone & so nervous

    So wonderful to see so many instant voices of encouragement! If that is not a poignant insight into what the Camino is all about then I don't know what is! I would imagine that this massively supportive reaction would be enough to ensure you that you will indeed "be fine" @Michele56 ! Buen...
  12. MarkEveleigh

    3-week Via de la Plata / French Way / Camino del Invierno combo

    Thanks for the info Jungleboy. I'll check in with him since I would love to compare notes. I did this in two separate hikes but would love to retrace my steps and combine them: in 2022 I walked from Gibraltar to Astorga then on the French Way to Sarria before heading to the coast; then, a couple...
  13. MarkEveleigh

    3-week Via de la Plata / French Way / Camino del Invierno combo

    I’ve come up with a three week (roughly 400km) hike that combines some uniquely exciting aspects of three very different Camino routes. I'd love to hear your thoughts. Granja de Moreruela is the spot where the vast majority of Via de la Plata pilgrims turn west on a beeline to Ourense and...
  14. MarkEveleigh

    Any recommendations for a scenic route of around 200 kms

    Another - longer - option that I would highly recommend would be to walk from Granja de la Moreruela to Astorga, join the French Way for just 2 days to Ponferrada, then join the Camino del Invierno to Santiago.
  15. MarkEveleigh

    Any recommendations for a scenic route of around 200 kms

    I'm not sure if you have your heart set on ending your walk in Santiago but, if not, I would HIGHLY recommend the final stretch of the Via de la Plata. Of course that route is walked by only a few and the vast majority of those turn westwards at Granja de Moreruela so that the northbound route...
  16. MarkEveleigh

    Camiño de Taverneiro - a newly recovered route through Galicia

    With the Camino Francés becoming increasingly crowded each year it is always inspiring to hear about other options and this Camiño de Taverneiro sounds WONDERFUL for a shorter hike. I recently walked the 270km Camino del Invierno as part of a newspaper travel story (technically from Ponferrada...
  17. MarkEveleigh

    Random Acts of Kindness

    Thanks for such a lovely and thoughtful post. These random acts of kindness are certainly a huge part of the Caminos. I walked the Winter Route recently (mostly for fun but researching also for a newspaper article I'd been commissioned to write) and met some of the friendliest, most hospitable...
  18. MarkEveleigh

    Selling fully stamped credentials for €30

    It's interesting to read that this still goes on. In the Middle Ages there was a lucrative business in forging credenciales (for criminals and other ne'er-do-wells who had been condemned to go on a pilgrimage). I'm amazed that people will still pay for such fakes today.

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