LIVE from the Camino Unfinished business on the Plata

[AlanSykes]

I first set off on the Vía de la Plata on All Saints, 2010. Since then it, and its offshoot the Sanabrés, has been a greater or lesser part of all of my caminos, other than last year and when I reached Santiago vía the Norte/Mar/Inglés. But somehow I have never walked from Benavente to Astorga - although I came south from Benavente to join the Zamorano-Portugués once.

That is the current plan, to get to Astorga on Saturday or Sunday, and see the Becerra.

So yesterday at shortly before 7am, to take advantage of Salamanca's street lights for a few km, I set off. A few hours later and I was in Calzada de Valdunciel, walking twice around its fuente. A neighbour, assuming I was a bit dim, came out of her house to show me how to get water from a tap. I explained that I was looking for the falangist symbol I remembered decorating the fuente. "Oh, that went long ago", she said. "Mucho mejor", I answered, although she seemed less sure. But the sinister bunch of arrows still decorates the war memorial under the church porch - I suspect churches have an exemption from the historical memory law.

From summer to winter in less than a month. Plus fascist drinking water

More romanesque churches than you could get round in a week in Zamora, Civil War reminders north of Salamanca and a castle which Napoleon disliked. Alan Sykes strides on towards Santiago de Compostela

www.google.com

The two days between Salamamca and Zamora are dull. The main excitement is the dozen or so km with the high watch tower of Topas prison slowly getting nearer and then receeding again.



There is a short patch of dehesa to break up the monotony of the prairie, where I met more of my beautiful grey fan-tailed friends.



Otherwise not a lot, other than crossing the border into Zamora province. Not as bad as between Zafra and Mérida, where I twice caught the cafard. Come to think of it, I once got frost bite on my hands on the approach to Zamora, which is probably worse.

 

[Stivandrer]

I remember this correctional facility. There was a hell of a loud racket as I was passing.
Thought it was either a prison rebellion or a fire drill, horns and shouting was incessant.
Hoped nobody was coming my way and as there was no movement in the shrubbery of the field, I stuck to latter explanation...
You are right, nothing else was exiting----

 

[Flog]

Enjoy the northern end of the Via de la Plata.. a quiet and quirky stretch, and you surely wont find many others..

Seemingly empty towns, interesting street art, a nice stretch of disused victorian railway line, an albergue with hospital beds, and a lovely approach to Astorga!

 

[AlanSykes]

Another dawn start, another perfect crisp clear autumn day. Many of the villages between the Duero and the Tormes are surnamed "del vino", but are now mostly cereal. I think for the first time since leaving the Mediterranean, there are no sierras visible in any direction.



A few hours in, almost entirely on dirt roads and, after a slight ridge, Zamora became visible at about 10km away, "la perla del Duero", glittering in the noonday sun. Shortly afterwards, the camino joins the GR14, my friend from last year, "la senda del Duero". With the tower and dome of the glorious cathedral of "la bien cercada" becoming more prominent all the time.

Eventually you arrive at the Duero. The old Puente de Piedra is closed, and they've re-routed the camino over the modern Puente de los Poetas, a bit to the west. Possibly an even more spectacular riverscape than the usual entrance. Just beautiful. As Machado puts it "El Duero corre, terso y mudo, mansamente".



Straight up to the cathedral, and on into town by the new (to me) "La Milla Romanica", a Roman mile taking in nine of Zamora's main Romanesque churches between the cathedral and Santiago del Burgo, 1610 metres later - with optional detours to San Andrés, next to the albergue, and several others.



If I ever decide to live in Spain, it will be by the Duero, and either in Zamora or Soria.

 

[VNwalking]

For those who like that sort of thing.

Not really. A bit weirdly voyeuristic, if you ask me. But I've so enjoyed following your walk in her footsteps, and San Juan de la Cruz's. Those two were cut from a different cloth from the rest of us, to be sure, not the least because of their toughness.

I met more of my beautiful grey fan-tailed friends.

OK. Challenge taken up. One more clue as to colour. I know you're fond of Hen Harriers, certainly grey - but with a fan-shaped tail? It doesn't quite fit, but that's my guess. Unless (chuckling) you are referring to feral pigeons?

El Duero corre, terso y mudo, mansamente

I was wondering where you would cross the Duero this time. Zamora. Ah, lovely.

The old Puente de Piedra is closed,

Oh. A pity. For restoration? For good?

see the Becerra

This must brand me as a total philistine, but...
Well, I'll take the Romanesque in Zamora any day. Better yet anything Pre-romanesque.
Anyway, may it be a joy. And getting there, of course. It always is on our end, in the reading. Many thanks - your posts have been a much-needed positive diversion this last week.

 

[jalluisi]

Another dawn start, another perfect crisp clear autumn day. Many of the villages between the Duero and the Tormes are surnamed "del vino", but are now mostly cereal. I think for the first time since leaving the Mediterranean, there are no sierras visible in any direction.

View attachment 180695

A few hours in, almost entirely on dirt roads and, after a slight ridge, Zamora became visible at about 10km away, "la perla del Duero", glittering in the noonday sun. Shortly afterwards, the camino joins the GR14, my friend from last year, "la senda del Duero". With the tower and dome of the glorious cathedral of "la bien cercada" becoming more prominent all the time.

Eventually you arrive at the Duero. The old Puente de Piedra is closed, and they've re-routed the camino over the modern Puente de los Poetas, a bit to the west. Possibly an even more spectacular riverscape than the usual entrance. Just beautiful. As Machado puts it "El Duero corre, terso y mudo, mansamente".

View attachment 180694

Straight up to the cathedral, and on into town by the new (to me) "La Milla Romanica", a Roman mile taking in nine of Zamora's main Romanesque churches between the cathedral and Santiago del Burgo, 1610 metres later - with optional detours to San Andrés, next to the albergue, and several others.

View attachment 180693

If I ever decide to live in Spain, it will be by the Duero, and either in Zamora or Soria.

View attachment 180696View attachment 180697View attachment 180698View attachment 180699View attachment 180700

Beautiful pictures!

 

[AlanSykes]

Shortly after Montamarta, finally, I caught sight of the foothills of Sanabria and, very faintly, the line of what can only have been Padornelo's pass into Galicia, about 100km off. A biting east wind made me slightly wish I'd dug my gloves out. I had been promising myself coffee at Fontanillas de Castro, but the bar was shut. On to Riego del Camino, whose Bar Pepe used to have mythical status with Plata veterans as a contender for Spain's dirtiest bar (it had fierce notices inside forbidding photography, presumably fed up after awestruck pilgrims felt they had to document the improbable experience). But it's closed down for good, and a new bar, 100m off the camino on the other side of the road, the "Biblioteca", is clean and welcoming and does nice tapas and is generally disappointingly normal.

A short detour off the camino takes you to the "colossal wreck" of the monastery of Santa María de Moreruela, possibly the first Cistercian monastery in Spain. Latterly used as a quarry for dressed stone, at 2 reales a cartload - the church at nearby Granja de Moreruela is apparently largely made from stone cannibalised from the monastery.

 

[Kirkie]

Another dawn start, another perfect crisp clear autumn day. Many of the villages between the Duero and the Tormes are surnamed "del vino", but are now mostly cereal. I think for the first time since leaving the Mediterranean, there are no sierras visible in any direction.

View attachment 180695

A few hours in, almost entirely on dirt roads and, after a slight ridge, Zamora became visible at about 10km away, "la perla del Duero", glittering in the noonday sun. Shortly afterwards, the camino joins the GR14, my friend from last year, "la senda del Duero". With the tower and dome of the glorious cathedral of "la bien cercada" becoming more prominent all the time.

Eventually you arrive at the Duero. The old Puente de Piedra is closed, and they've re-routed the camino over the modern Puente de los Poetas, a bit to the west. Possibly an even more spectacular riverscape than the usual entrance. Just beautiful. As Machado puts it "El Duero corre, terso y mudo, mansamente".

View attachment 180694

Straight up to the cathedral, and on into town by the new (to me) "La Milla Romanica", a Roman mile taking in nine of Zamora's main Romanesque churches between the cathedral and Santiago del Burgo, 1610 metres later - with optional detours to San Andrés, next to the albergue, and several others.

View attachment 180693

If I ever decide to live in Spain, it will be by the Duero, and either in Zamora or Soria.

View attachment 180696View attachment 180697View attachment 180698View attachment 180699View attachment 180700

Such a beautiful word, mansamente...you are a skilled wordsmith yourself, of course...

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola @AlanSykes Thank you for a great report. It only serves to motivate me all the more. On May 17th 2013 (my late fathers 99th birthday), in light rain I left Merida walking with David a Basque young man who was most helpful in keeping me on track. Unfortunately those old Roman coble stones and broken tiles all but crippled me after 5 days. Now I aim to return to the great university city of Salamanca, again in May (2025) and walk to Santiago. Buen Camino

 

[chinacat]

"colossal wreck" of the monastery of Santa María de Moreruela, possibly the first Cistercian monastery in Spain.

What a beautiful building … still beautiful ….

 

[VNwalking]

What a beautiful building … still beautiful ….

My thought too. Ransacked for easily reused stone, as though it were a quarry. I'm amazed anything is left at all.

 

[Flog]

My own recollection of it from wandering around it back in 2018 was that it was astonishingly beautiful, but largely intact.. was I dreaming?

 

[peregrina2000]

A short detour off the camino takes you to the "colossal wreck" of the monastery of Santa María de Moreruela, possibly the first Cistercian monastery in Spain

Love those apses! Alan, how did you do this? Did you walk from Zamora and then swing out at some point to go up to the monastery? I’m asking because the only time I made it out to the monastery in Moreruela (at least the only time I made it there on foot), I stopped in Granja, dropped my pack, and then walked out and back. Looks like you have found a smarter way. Actually I have a vague memory that others have done just that, but I am not able to find it by searching.

Anyway you slice it, it looks like a stage of more than 40 km!

 

[Flog]

I stopped in Granja, dropped my pack, and then walked out and back.

I did the same..

 

[VNwalking]

Anyway you slice it, it looks like a stage of more than 40 km!

Grf, becoming unattainable for some of us. Go Alan, go. Long may that be possible for you.

 

[AlanSykes]

At the "Orense [sic]-Astorga" sign by the church in Granja de Moreruela, for the first time I turned right. Not without a slight sigh for the many happy memories of Sanabria and the Tera valley in autumn.

Yesterday's wind has blown most of the last leaves off the trees. A pity, as the Esla valley has some large commercial plantations of poplars, which have been rich in their golden colours these last weeks.

About 8km from Benavente, a new vía verde takes you all the way into central town. Saving, I think, a couple of km on the official route, and crossing the Esla on an impressive iron bridge. A couple of km I would have loved to have saved yesterday, in the horizontal drizzle that accompanied me on the last dreary stretch from the monastery to Granja del Moreruela - admittedly the first rain to fall on me while walking since before Toledo. Tomorrow, the vía verde will take me out of town northwards for another 8km. I assume eventually it will cover the whole line between Astorga and Salamanca?

On the outskirts of Benavente are two gargantuan towers of the local sugar refinery, once with its own branch line onto the railway, now all carried by lorries.



Visible on the height of the town is the distinctive tower of Santa María del Azogue. A largely romanesque church, with two fine doorways, one crowned with a lovely Angus Dei surrounded by the four evangelists, and an unusual pregnant Eve (I assume).





The nearby San Juan del Mercado is also worth a look, with beautiful acanthus leaves, and an adoration of the Magi on the south porch.

An enjoyable and much shorter day, after three in a row when I arrived far too late for lunch. The tourist office has the helpful sign in its window saying the the local albergue "permanecerá cerrado por reformas hasta nuevo aviso". On the four times I've now been in Benavente in November (twice from the Sureste, once from the north, and now) it always has closed at the end of October, so I wasn't expecting anything else. Currently in the warm and comfortable Hostal Covadonga, very central.

Did you walk from Zamora and then swing out at some point to go up to the monastery?

Yup, shortly after Riego del Camino you can take a dirt track more or less parallel to the camino that takes you directly to the monastery. I'd guess only about 2-3km extra, rather than the 6-7km going from Granja de Moreruela to the monastery and back.

 

[chinacat]

Apropos of nothing really, I just want to share my delight at the rebirth of our Acanthus plants this year.
We cut down some ostensibly miniature conifers which had grown to gargantuan size and voilá: the beautiful plants are alive!!
…complete with flower spikes
Well, they were …
Along with the other herbaceous perennials they are now sleeping …

May your remaining days on camino be free of the wet stuff, Alan, and may there be warmth and peace for all in the northern hemisphere as winter approaches.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Many of the villages between the Duero and the Tormes are surnamed "del vino", but are now mostly cereal.

The last couple of days I've been searching for a connection from the Camino Madrid to the Camino Levante. Looking at the IGN map I noticed that the area south of Zamora is labeled as Tierra del Vino and the area north is labeled Tierra del Pan.



Btw, I found the connection between the two caminos to be the GR 14 between Simancas and Castronuño (southeast of Toro). It is named the Senda (or Ruta) del Duero because it roughly follows the Rio Duero. Stages can be found on Wikiloc if anyone is interested.

 

[VNwalking]

two fine doorways

And a mighty fine bell tower, too. That spire looks inspired by what Viollet-le-Duc did to Notre Dame. Completely out of place but strangely pleasing.

 

[AlanSykes]

Another early start. The official camino leaves by the side of a quite busy main road, but I took the vía verde - safer in the dark, and shorter too. Eventually, presumably, the arrows will follow the new rail trail, clearly still being expanded - shortly before La Bañeza, they had removed more rails and flattened the aggregate as preparation. John Moore with 25000 troops stayed at Benavente in the early stages of the war, late in 1809. Finding that Napoleon himself was in the vicinity with 80,000 troops, and Soult within reach with another 35,000, he sensibly decamped to Astorga, starting the retreat to A Coruña.

The Orbigo took the place of yesterday's Esla, both helping hugely to enlarge the Duero before it turns into the Duoro at the border.

La Bañeza is enjoying the beginning of the weekend with an energetic paseo under the full moon.



Arriving too late for lunch, I still had a filling bowl of alubias con chorizo, a local speciality of here and of Sanabria. Somebody in a bar told me that the drizzle that fell on me two days ago formed the first snow of the year on nearby Padornelo, but you can't see it from here.

 

[chinacat]

Thank you for yet another beautiful photograph!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thank you for yet another beautiful photograph!

Agree! Just yesterday my friend from the Philippines who lives in Qatar, @yaying, sent me the full moon pic she took from there. I then sent her the full moon picture from my home in Illinois...taken at least a half day later.
Sorry, Alan, for taking this little "detour".

 

[AlanSykes]

Somehow Astorga has always seemed, not unobtainable - very obtainable from many different angles - just never previously obtained. As the conclusion, never previously achieved, of the Plata, and of last year's Camino del Sur, theoretically from Zaragossa to Astorga, and also of the previous year's Roman road from Braga, the Caminho da Geira y dos Arreieros.

So it's nice to be here at last. Especially after a remarkably dull day from La Bañeza - nearly half the day's journey on a narrow path claustrophobicly hemmed in by evergreen oaks, with Saturday hunters shooting rabbits very nearby. And the ever present whine of the motorway not much further off.

And then the join, where the tiny trickle of pilgrims from the south on the Vía de la Plata joins the tidal wave of those who have walked from the Pyrenees.

The cathedral lived up to expectations. Gaspar Becerra's altarpiece in particular. It's a difficult fit in the narrow space, and difficult to see the higher levels. Possibly because they're easiest to see, the four virtues, at eye level, are, to me, the most spectacular, perhaps, the ones which show most clearly why Michaelangelo was happy to have Becerra as a pupil, and how well he taught him. Glorious.



Although I liked the Magi as well - the kings, a few shepherds, some livestock wondering what was invading their space, the holy family and also a Roman soldier I don't remember from Matthew.



The Bishop's palace was another treat, Gaudí's extravagance gleaming under the still virtually full moon.



Nearby is a plaque recording the house where John Moore stayed before what had been an orderly withdrawal turned into the retreat to A Coruña, and then a preview of Dunkirk.



Anyway, I'm glad I can finally (14 years after starting from Seville) claim to have walked the whole of the Vía de la Plata.

 

[chinacat]

So are you now going to hang up your boots for another year?

Be warned: if you return home early this next week, you will feel the change in temperature. We are expecting highs of -4C to +4C … brrr … and prossibly (David Frost’s “combination of two words”) snow, ice, hail etc. Slightly better by the end of the week.
I’d stay in Spain!!