LIVE from the Camino Life as a hospitalero: Salamanca

[Camino Chrissy]

Photos: the river (taken from the Roman bridge, a nice tortilla, the Botanical Gardens (×2), the Urban Gardens, me pointing the way to the albergue).

That tortilla looks yummy. I am especially drawn to the colorful tablecloth with its display of the cheese/jamon. They look like cute flowers and sometimes presentation is everything.

David, I notice you look just like your avatar. Did you once say your wife had drawn it.

 

[David Tallan]

That tortilla looks yummy. I am especially drawn to the colorful tablecloth with its display of the cheese/jamon. They look like cute flowers and sometimes presentation is everything.

David, I notice you look just like your avatar. Did you once say your wife had drawn it.

I did indeed. She drew it for my personal sello, and I adopted it for my social media avatar. She drew it after my 2016 Camino, from which I returned with a beard (which I promptly shaved off). I think she was trying to ensure I never came back with a beard again. If do, she was successful. If I grow a beard on Camino, people won't recognize me from the stamp.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I did indeed. She drew it for my personal sello, and I adopted it for my social media avatar. She drew it after my 2016 Camino, from which I returned with a beard (which I promptly shaved off). I think she was trying to ensure I never came back with a beard again. If do, she was successful. If I grow a beard on Camino, people won't recognize me from the stamp.

Well, you haven't seemed to age a day since that drawing from eight years ago.

 

[David Tallan]

Monday 21 October 2024

It's about 5 pm, so time for my daily update. A pretty busy day (relatively speaking) for the albergue, with 7 pilgrim guests (everyone can still have a bottom bunk). We have a couple of Spanish gentlemen a little older than me, one of those multinational Camino families with two French men and Australian and Belgian women, and, rolling in just now, another Spanish bicigrino.

After the usual morning chores, I went to visit the University. Although it was established in the 13th century, it didn't move to the current location until the late 15th century and most of what they are showing off is 16th century, give or take. The usual formal patio, grand staircase, elaborate chapel, etc. There is also a very pretty old library, which one can see (and a more modern one that wasn't open), as well as several historic lecture halls. After visiting this campus of the University, I went over to the College of Archbishop Fonseco, but it was closed to touristic visits today. So I decided to see some street art.

One of the pilgrims who stayed here (a French pilgrim who stayed an extra day) had mentioned that he had gone to see some street art near the Plaza del Oeste. He had found it on a website streetartcities.com. I decided to check it out and ended up downloading the app. Wow! There was a ton of street art in that neighborhood. I probably saw about half of what was there, just seeing the art to the west of the Plaza, and I took well over a hundred photos of different street art pieces (not all of it). But then it was time to head over to lunch. I will have to return to see what is east of the Plaza on another day.

Lunch was at the usual place. For the first course, patatas meneas, a local Salamancan dish, was recommended. Since a recommendation is not usually forthcoming, I accepted it. For the second course, I went with albondigas (meatballs) in sauce. After lunch, I did some shopping and headed back to the albergue for a rest. There were a couple of pilgrims waiting outside, and I invited them to leave their backpacks in the albergue until opening time. My rest was a bit longer than usual and instead of opening up 15 minutes early, I ended up opening up a couple of minutes late. Of course, these two pilgrims were waiting outside when I opened up. One had a copy of Peregrino magazine for me that had clearly been left by Correos. While I was checking them in, the multinational pilgrim family arrived. It was busy for a while. But it has very much settled down now.

Photos: lecture hall at the university; ceiling of the upper walkway around the patio, old university library, street art (x3)

 

[filly]

I would be so grateful, David, if you could pop in to the Archive of the Civil War in calle Gibraltar round the corner from the Albergue and give an opinion. I have always wanted to venture in but been ‘en Camino’ before opening time or arriving too late. I was in Teruel and Valencia in the spring and visited bunkers, trenches and ammunition stores. There is much more openness about that painful period - indeed a museum is planned for Teruel..

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I love that street art David, thanks for sharing. Feel free to post more!
It was one of the things that I loved about Berlin when I first visited 25 or so years ago, the street art. Some pieces are three or four stories high, just beautiful

 

[filly]

I love that street art David, thanks for sharing. Feel free to post more!
It was one of the things that I loved about Berlin when I first visited 25 or so years ago, the street art. Some pieces are three or four stories high, just beautiful

Yes! On my list for my next visit!!

I agree about Berlin.. but wait till you get to Valparaiso (Chile)

 

[David Tallan]

I love that street art David, thanks for sharing. Feel free to post more!
It was one of the things that I loved about Berlin when I first visited 25 or so years ago, the street art. Some pieces are three or four stories high, just beautiful

Here's a link to a shared Google album of Salamanca Street Art: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZK3u11z2itMT7gZ2A. It took a while because one of the photos wouldn't back up and had to be deleted before I could share the album.

Edited to add: and it doesn't seem to work when I click it here, but if I copy the link and paste it in Chrome, it works fine.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Street Art is a big thing in recent years and it seems to be nearly everywhere. In my town, nearby city and surrounding areas it has really "taken off" so to speak.
I see many new artistic paintings on my Caminos, too, on the sides of buildings and it is a refreshing change from that awful gold color, dried out foam that was so prevalent a number of years ago.

 

[filly]

Here's a link to a shared Google album of Salamanca Street Art: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZK3u11z2itMT7gZ2A. It took a while because one of the photos wouldn't back up and had to be deleted before I could share the album.

Edited to add: and it doesn't seem to work when I click it here, but if I copy the link and paste it in Chrome, it works fine.

Works fine on safari! Much appreciated!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Here's a link to a shared Google album of Salamanca Street Art: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZK3u11z2itMT7gZ2A. It took a while because one of the photos wouldn't back up and had to be deleted before I could share the album.

Edited to add: and it doesn't seem to work when I click it here, but if I copy the link and paste it in Chrome, it works fine.

So interesting — it looks to me like very little of this has a political message. My only comparison is Oaxaca, Mexico. There’s a lot of similar street art, but I would say that at least 75% of it expresses a political opinion. I wonder if I’m right and if so, why that would be the case in Salamanca.

 

[David Tallan]

So interesting — it looks to me like very little of this has a political message. My only comparison is Oaxaca, Mexico. There’s a lot of similar street art, but I would say that at least 75% of it expresses a political opinion. I wonder if I’m right and if so, why that would be the case in Salamanca.

There is a laminated map of Salamanca at the desk in this albergue and I noticed yesterday that this area is labeled "Gallería Urbana" on the map. Perhaps in Mexico, it is done by activists as a form of protest, while in Salamanca it was invited of a broader range of artists.

 

[Friend from Barquinha]

So interesting — it looks to me like very little of this has a political message. My only comparison is Oaxaca, Mexico. There’s a lot of similar street art, but I would say that at least 75% of it expresses a political opinion. I wonder if I’m right and if so, why that would be the case in Salamanca.

I hesitate to get too far into this in case I veer into the political, but perhaps in Mexico, where it can be very very dangerous to make a political statement overtly, street art is the way people can comment on what's going on.

My impression is that Spain, like Portugal, takes free speech pretty seriously and there is a lot of open protest about many issues. So perhaps street art can step back from that and just display artists' talent and vision on many subjects?

I know that in Portugal, there was a lot of revolutionary street art created just after the revolution in 1974. Much of it has been preserved or documented. But there's lots of new street art--often bigger, more sophisticated murals--that's been created recently. I know our little municipality has a variety across its various concelhos.

(I was going to say none of them have political comment, but that's not entirely true.)

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@David Tallan, the link works for me, many thanks for sharing.
Some beautiful artwork!

 

[David Tallan]

Tuesday 22 October 2024

Definitely faced some challenges today, but not as hospitalero. More on them later. It's about 5:30 right now and we have 4 pilgrims so far. Yesterday we had one late arrival, after I wrote my daily entry. Jim, from the States, is walking the Plata in reverse from Leon through Astorga. When he arrived, he greeted me with "Are you David?". Apparently, he'd been hearing about me from pilgrims who had stayed here. Good things, he says. That's always nice to hear. He asked if he could stay an extra day. Since my philosophy as hospitalero is to treat people as I would like to be treated, I said okay as long as it didn't mean turning away other pilgrims, which I thought would be very unlikely given the number of pilgrims I'd been seeing and the number of beds we have.

This morning, when I got up at 6, the Spanish pair were already up and the first out the door. I managed to clear the rest out by about 8:30. Jim left his backpack here for the day, as did the Belgian peregrina who was catching a train to Madrid after 4 pm.

I decided today was cathedral day and was there at 10 am when they opened. I got the audio guide and followed it diligently while touring the new cathedral and attached old cathedral. As I suspected would be the case, the old cathedral was a bit more to my taste. While walking around admiring the cathedral and taking photographs, I put my hat down on one of the benches for the congregation. You aren't supposed to wear hats in churches, so normally I take it off and carry it with me, but if I am taking lots of pictures, sometimes I like to set it down. Well, I set it down today and when I went back for it, it had disappeared. There had been a tour group coming through and I guess someone must have picked it up. I checked lost and found but it hadn't been turned in. I will try again tomorrow morning and if it isn't there, I guess I am looking for another hat. That was somewhat of a downer. In fact, it was enough of a downer that, as I was walking through the streets back towards the cathedral entrance to ask about a lost and found, and passing the entrance to the climb of the cathedral's towers, I decided I just didn't have the energy to force myself to face my fears and climb, as I otherwise might have done. And after checking the lost and found unsuccessfully, I completely forgot to check out the episcopal palace, also included in my cathedral ticket.

After the cathedral, I followed up on @filly's request and popped in to the Civil War Archives. There was no charge and they had a number of displays on the first floor, including a special exhibition on the Franco regimes persecution of freemasons, which culminated in a recreation if a freemason environment. From there I went back to the albergue and then off to lunch.

After lunch, I decided it was time to visit a bank machine and top up my euros, which I had not done since arrival in Spain. Unfortunately, when I did so, the transaction was not authorized. I thought "maybe I was asking for too much", so I tried again, only asking for €100. Still not authorized. I keep hearing from my bank that they don't want to hear when I am traveling. They no longer can use that information. The algorithms have it well in hand. And every year I keep having problems like this. Tomorrow, I will try again at a different bank here, with a debit card from a different bank at home. I dejectedly headed back to the albergue to be there to open it up for today's pilgrims.

The first pilgrims to arrive were the two from yesterday. Jim had brought a little spread and was offering us wine and chorizo and olives. A little later we got a visit from @Sitkapilgrim, who is staying in a hotel tonight to catch up on sleep but will be checking in tomorrow and setting out on the Camino Torres on Thursday. Since I will be following her just over a week later, I'll be watching for her updates! She has also taken the hosvol training, so we chatted about being a hospitalero as well as about Salamanca, our Camino histories, and the usual things pilgrims talk about when they meet.

At 6:00, I paused working on this to join the Forum Zoom call, and with one thing and another it is now close to 8:00. One of those things was the arrival of a bicigrino from Mexico, bringing our pilgrim numbers up to 5 tonight. It turns out that he had met with Jim in Zamora (a name that he shares) and he had met another of our pilgrims (who also identifies as Mexican) on the Norte. Small world!

I think this is where I will leave off. We will see what tomorrow brings.

Photos: New cathedral (x2), Old cathedral (x2), Civil War archives (x2)

 

[J Willhaus]

Sorry about the bank thing. Very annoying...even more so when traveling.

 

[Dani7]

Thank you David for your daily posts. I look forward to reading them. Now I feel the calling to go to Salamanca. Thanks…I guess (one more camino on my list)

 

[Friend from Barquinha]

Good luck on the hat...it's always a drag to lose something like that!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Good luck on the hat...it's always a drag to lose something like that!

Such a bummer on the hat disappearing. Was it the exact one in your avatar? If so, you had it a long time. I hope you can replace it with a similar one or forum members will no longer recognize you out on the trail.

 

[donalomahony]

Thanks for taking the time to keep us updated. Life!!

 

[J Willhaus]

Phil found a great hat (wool, Italian made) one year in Santiago so maybe you'll find an equally good one in Salamanca on your daily trips to see the city sights.

 

[MARSKA]

Thanks for the updates David! It's wonderful to follow along with you (hope your hat finds you).

 

[feenzo]

Saturday 19 October 2024

It's about 5 pm and so far we have three pilgrims today: from Spain, France, and Montenegro. It's been a quiet day, so this will be a shorter report.

Yesterday, folks were mostly back by 10 pm ... ish. The Chinese peregrina who had been the first to arrive just before 3:00 was actually the last to return, about ten minutes late. I was still up, in the midst of a long and deep conversation with the British pilgrim. He was traveling without a phone and without much Spanish, which brings with it some challenges. He wasn't sure if he wanted to press on tomorrow (Saturday) or take a rest day and eventually asked if I could help him call a place in Salamanca and reserve for tomorrow. Since we have been so far from being full, I told him it was okay for him to take his rest day here. He was very grateful. (Of course, as so often happens on the Camino, a night's rest proves very restorative, and in the morning he didn't think he'd need a rest day and preferred to keep his walking rhythm.)

When I went to bed last night, the British pilgrim was still up and asked if it was okay if he sat quietly at the table for a few minutes more before going to bed. I said "Okay, just make sure to turn out these lights before you head to bed." Of course, when I got up at 2:30 am to use the rest rooms, I noticed he had forgotten to turn out the lights. But I noticed that I also had forgotten to lay out the breakfast. So I did.

I was woken up again at 6:00 by my alarm and finished with the breakfast, putting the coffee on and laying out the refrigerated items. The Chinese pilgrim was the first up and out, leaving with a hug at about 7:30. The other two took a but longer, finally departing at about 8:30. Then the day was my own.

But I had cleaning to do (no cleaner on the weekend) and rest to catch up on so there was no sightseeing this morning, just chores. After chores, I took a bit of a rest, interrupted a couple of times by pilgrims ringing the doorbell to ask if they could leave their bags here while visiting the town (something I hadn't experienced other days, probably because I hadn't been here to hear it).

I couldn't leave you without anything, though, so I did stop in one place on the way to comida. Salamanca being a university town, I stopped by a classroom, specifically the reputed site of Salamanca's School of Necromancy, allegedly taught by the Devil himself. Just around the corner from the albergue is the Cave of Salamanca, the crypt of the former Church of San Cebrian (demolished in the 14th century). Legend has it that Satan would teach classes of seven students for seven years, after which he would take one of the students to serve him for life. One of the students taken was Enrique of Aragon (1384-1434), the Marquis of Villena, who managed to escape, losing his shadow in the process. The cave has appeared in tales written by Cervantes, Calderón de la Barca, Walter Scott, and many others.

After lunch, I did a bit of shopping restocking some breakfast items before heading back to the albergue. One of the many complaints from the Spanish pilgrim yesterday morning (the one who could not conceive of a 10pm curfew in civilized society) was that Cola Cao had not been put out with the coffee and teas in the morning. How could it possibly not be there? Actually, I think Cola Cao is a decent option to include, so I picked some up while I was restocking the magdalenas and croissants.

Then I opened us up for business, 15 minutes early after another little rest and checked in our three pilgrims. After which I just sat around. Which brings us to now.

Edited to add: we got a fourth peregrina from Argentina arriving at about 6:00 pm.

Photos. I don't have much, just a couple of photos of the "cave" (crypt), so I will add in a few I took last night from the garden.
View attachment 179354 View attachment 179355 View attachment 179356 View attachment 179357 View attachment 179358

Best of luck

 

[CarolamS]

So sorry about your hat David.

 

[RJM]

That sucks somebody ripped off your Tilley hat and in a church of all places.
I know they're not cheap and if it's a hat that has some history for you that of course isn't replaceable.

 

[dick bird]

We didn't get the budget. I am financing this myself with a head start from the previous hospitalero who was doing the same thing and left some supplies. I just added the Cola Cao and topped up what she left.

Budget arrangements vary enormously between albergues, and many hospitaleros, subsidise or even provide it e.g. the Wilhaus´s. At Villadangos we counted and accounted for the donativo money and had to use it to buy breakfast supplies and cleaning materials. We gave everyone hard boiled eggs, cream cheese and yoghurt in addition to the usual bread, madelenas and always, always Cola Cao. Hot chocolate when pilgrims arrived went down well too.

´Please feed the pig´ was how we solicited donations. What does your donativo box look like?

 

[J Willhaus]

Important to know whether you are supposed to be providing breakfast or other meals per your municipal agreement. You don't want to be considered a "competition" with the community.

They could shut you down.

 

[dick bird]

Important to know whether you are supposed to be providing breakfast or other meals per your municipal agreement. You don't want to be considered a "competition" with the community.

They could shut you down.

Good point, and one we always stress in our training program. Breakfast shouldn´t be a problem in a big city like Salamanca (especially as you´d be hard put to find anywhere for breakfast at 6 in the morning), but in a small village it could cause problems. Normally, following what your predecessor did means it is OK but it would be best to check with the local liaison or albergue owner (e.g. parish priest or ayuntamiento) before you introduce anything new. Generally speaking, providing evening meal where this is not established practice is a big no no.

 

[David Tallan]

Such a bummer on the hat disappearing. Was it the exact one in your avatar? If so, you had it a long time. I hope you can replace it with a similar one or forum members will no longer recognize you out on the trail.

It was actually a very similar one (also a Tilley hat) that I had been gifted for doing a "Camino 101" talk at a local sporting goods store. Easy come easy go, I guess. The acquisition cost was low, but the replacement cost won't be. I wonder how easy it will be to find a hat that matches my avatar here.

 

[David Tallan]

Important to know whether you are supposed to be providing breakfast or other meals per your municipal agreement. You don't want to be considered a "competition" with the community.

They could shut you down.

I don't think it will be a big issue here. Salamanca is a reasonably sized university town, with  lots of options. I dont think the small breakfast I provide to a half dozen or less pilgrims each day (not all of whom consume it) is making a noticeable dent in anyone's business.

 

[J Willhaus]

I don't think it will be a big issue here. Salamanca is a reasonably sized university town, with  lots of options. I dont think the small breakfast I provide to a half dozen or less pilgrims each day (not all of whom consume it) is making a noticeable dent in anyone's business.

Ok I just know at another albergue the hospitaleros started doing breakfast and after several teams continued, they found out they were not supposed to be doing it and were asked to stop.

 

[dick bird]

Ok I just know at another albergue the hospitaleros started doing breakfast and after several teams continued, they found out they were not supposed to be doing it and were asked to stop.

That´s why you always need to check with the local contact person. Unfortunately, some hospis make up their own rules so just because your predecessor did it, it is not necessarily OK. It´s a very sensitive issue because not only are restaurants and bars struggling to stay in business, they are often having to subsidise the albergue through local taxes. So it´s not surprising if they get very upset if they discover an albergue is providing meals ´for free´.

 

[David Tallan]

Ok I just know at another albergue the hospitaleros started doing breakfast and after several teams continued, they found out they were not supposed to be doing it and were asked to stop.

If that happens here, I will apologize, blame it all on the previous hospitalera , and stop. I haven't been hiding it. Some members of the local Camino community came by today during breakfast and saw me put it away and didn't say anything.

 

[David Tallan]

That´s why you always need to check with the local contact person. Unfortunately, some hospis make up their own rules so just because your predecessor did it, it is not necessarily OK. It´s a very sensitive issue because not only are restaurants and bars struggling to stay in business, they are often having to subsidise the albergue through local taxes. So it´s not surprising if they get very upset if they discover an albergue is providing meals ´for free´.

In a small village for sure! With the number of tourists coming through Salamanca (about which there are starting to be local concerns) and the size of the local population, compared to the handful of pilgrims we receive, I really don't believe any of the many local businesses will see any measurable differences with our breakfasts.

But as I said above, I am more than willing to stop if requested and pass the message on to my successor that they are verboten.

 

[David Tallan]

Wednesday 23 October 2024

Not every day goes as planned but that is not always a bad thing.

The doorbell rang at about 8 am this morning (no early departures by pilgrims). It was Ken, whom I mentioned in my very first post as one of our contacts friends who are ready to support the albergue, "a retired physician who speaks English". I got the impression from Shannon that these people were regular fixtures at the albergue but I hadn't seen them since. Ken was here to hang out a bit and invite me to take a walk with him. So I decided to set aside my plans for the day (which centered on washing and shopping) and take a walk. While we were waiting for the pilgrims to finish up and leave (I shooed the last one out at about 8:30), Ken made me a couple of little origamis. He has a Japanese background, although he has been living in Salamanca for over 50 years. Before we left, Ken lent his bicycle to an English pilgrim who was taking a rest day and needed to get to Decathlon to buy some gloves. Decathlon is quite a distance from here. He asked the pilgrim to leave the bike by the albergue gate, with the chain wrapped around it but not locked.

Since I had already seen a bit of the river west of here, we decided to walk east along the river. But first we made a stop to pick up a friend of his, and a stop for coffee and churros while waiting for his friend to get ready. Then the three of us set out. It was a cool and foggy morning, very nice for a walk. We walked along pedestrian trail beside what was clearly an extensive network of bike trails through some very nice park land. Eventually we crossed a bridge to the Isla de Soto in the middle of the river. It turns out this is where Ken's friend was born. His grandfather had a large farm there with a nice orchard. After his grandfather passed away, the land went wild until it was acquired by the municipality and reconstructed as a park. Both Ken and his friend spoke a little English, but we're more comfortable in Spanish, so I tried to stick to that as much as possible. As per usual, my grammar was terrible, as I would realize as the words were leaving my mouth. One of the things that came up in the conversation was that not only was Ken not retired (as I had initially been led to believe, and as his friend and I are), but he said he has never taken a vacation. Thus he has never walked a long Camino, only short sections. He may end up walking the first few days of the Torres with me. We'll see.

While we were walking back from our excursion by the river, I stopped by another bank machine (different bank) and tried my other bank card. Thank heavens it worked.

We got back to the albergue at about 11:30, which still left me a little time to do some shopping before lunch. The bike had not yet been returned. First stop was the cathedral, to confirm that my hat had not been turned in. Second stop was a sporting goods store to look for another hat, but there was nothing suitable there. Third stop was a hat store. They didn't have anything quite like my missing hat (in cotton), just in straw and wool. I figured wool would not necessarily be a bad choice for a November Camino, so I got the closest thing in that which fit me. My wife said "That's a nice hat actually", which has to count as a victory because I don't think anyone else's opinion counts more than hers.

From there I went to the supermarket to restock some items for breakfast and for my suppers. Then it was lunch at 1:00. Normally, lunch wouldn't take too long because I am a quick eater, but I was joined part way through by Victor, whom I also hadn't seen in a week. Wednesday is apparently cocido madrileño day at Niza, and we both had cocido. I got back to the albergue well after 2. The bicycle was there but the key was nowhere to be found, so Ken was unsuccessful in retrieving it. I had enough time to shave and start my laundry before the pilgrims started arriving but not enough time to finish the laundry.

Then the flood of pilgrims started. It actually started before three, with pilgrims ringing the doorbell. It was about 2:55 and I thought the pilgrims could wait another 5 minutes but apparently they didn't because they kept ringing the doorbell until I came and told them we open at 3. We ended up having 15 pilgrims check in (including three who are here a second day) but only 13 pilgrims are sleeping here tonight as two decided to leave. They said they had decided to stay 4 days in Salamanca and switch to a hostal. Among our 13 pilgrins is the one who had the key to the bike lock. He decided to lock it, he said, because he thought it would be safer. I retrieved the key and let Ken know. One pair of pilgrims (bicigrinos who rode from Barcelona to Santiago and then down to Salamanca) asked to stay a second night for a rest day and I said okay. One of the pilgrims asked to stay a third night but that was where I drew the line.

The pilgrim who visited yesterday and is starting the Camino Torres tomorrow checked in. We exchanged WhatsApp contacts so she can keep me up on conditions since I wont be too far behind her. She was out shopping, though, when I had a visit from Luis, who operated caminotorres.com and is the local expert on the route. It was good to have some affirmation of my planning and get an update of the conditions and the latest route information. We also exchanged WhatsApp contacts.

It is now about 8:40. Ken has retrieved his bike. He offered me a bike to use (he says he has about ten of them) but I think I will be walking. We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Photos: our morning walk (×4), me in my new hat

 

[J Willhaus]

Great hat!

 

[Tincatinker]

Great hat!!

 

[J Willhaus]

Great hat!!

We both have good taste.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

A lovely hat indeed, although a tad sophisticated for a Camino hiker.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola @David, real bummer to loose your Tilley style hat. I have a Tilley - acquired it about 10 years ago. It is now looking its age but I still love it. Great to read your story. One question, apart from the university are there any other "short term" Spanish language schools. My plan is to start the VDLP / Sanabraes in May 2025 and thought I might do a 7-10 day Spanish emergent class. Not expecting to become anyway fluent - just want to improve somewhat. Cheers for now.

 

[Martyduc]

Hola @David, real bummer to loose your Tilley style hat. I have a Tilley - acquired it about 10 years ago. It is now looking its age but I still love it. Great to read your story. One question, apart from the university are there any other "short term" Spanish language schools. My plan is to start the VDLP / Sanabraes in May 2025 and thought I might do a 7-10 day Spanish emergent class. Not expecting to become anyway fluent - just want to improve somewhat. Cheers for now.

2 years ago,, I did 2 weeks at the Don Quijote Spanish Language school in Salamanca,, and I was very happy with them!!

 

[Robo]

The hat's a winner !

 

[lesmac]

Love the new hat and your notes on the life of a hospitalero. I passed through Salamanca in April 2023 on the VdlP and loved the city.
Thanks for your posts David.

 

[dick bird]

But as I said above, I am more than willing to stop if requested and pass the message on to my successor that they are verboten.

I would relax about it, David. As you say, Salamanca is a big place, not a village on the Meseta and the local people responsible for the albergue seem to know about it.

 

[RJM]

Nice hat. Good replacement.
BTW I enjoy the small breakfasts sometimes given by albergues. Coffee or tea, biscuits and/or toast. It's just a wake up thing for me and I eat a real breakfast later. I don't see it as competing with local cafes. Besides, it's just has a good vibe sitting in the albergue kitchen drinking coffee just before setting off on the route.

 

[David Tallan]

Hola @David, real bummer to loose your Tilley style hat. I have a Tilley - acquired it about 10 years ago. It is now looking its age but I still love it. Great to read your story. One question, apart from the university are there any other "short term" Spanish language schools. My plan is to start the VDLP / Sanabraes in May 2025 and thought I might do a 7-10 day Spanish emergent class. Not expecting to become anyway fluent - just want to improve somewhat. Cheers for now.

I'm pretty sure there are several others. Salamanca is said to be a centre for foreigners learning Spanish. But I haven't looked into them.

 

[dick bird]

Do you plan to spend a day or two in Salamanca after your stint? We've always worked in out of the way places but even so missed the chance to spend time in the towns we served in. As a hospi, you never seem to have enough free time to just wander and explore around the locality. Salamanca is a great city, one I'd like to re-visit one day.

 

[David Tallan]

My plan is to stay on the first, but leave on the second. But I might spend the first visiting a nearby pueblo, which my friends in Salamanca have recommended and may drive me to. I've actually found that I have reasonable time to see the town, at least the downtown parts of it. My time between about 9:00 and 3:00 is my own. That gives me some time each day to see things, even with the chores to fit in that.

 

[chinacat]

That hat should keep you warm and you’ll be a well-dressed pilgrim

Is it a fedora?

 

[EstherSTL]

Hi David, I finally found out how to follow you since your posts do not come up on the daily Ivar's email. I see that you are enjoying your 'job' as hospitalero even you had to deal with the loss of your hat. The new one does not have the emotional value of the other but will become your new companion. I am so glad that you are gathering so much knowledge about Salamanca and surroundings (hiking paths, restaurants, churches, close by pueblos.) Hope you are registering all this info for future pilgrims in our way to Salamanca. Keep safe, enjoy your time!

 

[David Tallan]

Thursday 24 October 2024.

Today we have 10 pilgrims staying the night (so far, it is about 4:50 pm). Half are walkers and half are cyclists.

Last night, unbelievably, everyone was back and in bed by 10 pm. And they got themselves out not long after 8 am. We had one of our pilgrims purchase a panettone to contribute to this morning's breakfast, but it was put in the fridge and, operating on autopilot at 6 am, I forgot to take it out and put it on the table. Oh well, it will form part of tomorrow's breakfast.

When my usual morning chores were done, I went to do a bit of sightseeing. First, I went to see the automotive history museum, not far from the albergue. Then I headed back to the Plaza del Oeste area to see the rest of the street art. Then I did more grocery shopping, so that we would have supplies for tomorrow's breakfast and went for lunch. Back to the albergue for a bit of a rest and then opened up and here we are. I didn't see the cleaning person today. She must have come a bit later. But I will have to catch her tomorrow because apparently she is the one we ask for more garbage bags.

Photos:
1922 Rolls Royce Silver Ghost, 1950s Biscutor-Boisin 200s mini-cars, 2000 Hispsno-Suiza HS-21, street art (×3)

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Wow, I originally had a zero intention of visiting Salamanca / doing the VDLP, thanks to your posts that is rapidly changing. From your photos it seems like a very scenic City, and with so many places to visit that are right up my alley. Heck, I could even do an intensive Spanish course.

Mind you an ABBA song quickly follows that thought...

 

[David Tallan]

Those aren't all the photos, of course. I added over 60 to the Street Art shared album (https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZK3u11z2itMT7gZ2A) and created an album for the car photos (https://photos.app.goo.gl/qe4craYrzfczvreaA)

 

[Corned Beef]

Talking about hats (or Capriote) I took a pic of the outside of one of the shops just down from the Cathedral in Salamanca. It shows all the different versions of outfits for the Hermandades / Brotherhoods. Seems you can get a wide variety there.

 

[David Tallan]

Friday 25 October 2024

Today was a quiet day compared to the last couple of days. We only have 5 pilgrims so far (it is about 6 pm), one of whom is a carry over from yesterday. The pilgrims are from: Hong Kong (the carry over), Israel, and three from Spain.

I left a bit later than usual I'm the morning. I had a little nap after the pilgrims had left and I'd tidied a bit. I wasnt sure if Ken would drop by for another walk. But after my nap I went out for today's sightseeing. Today was museum day. First I went to the Museum of Salamanca. It is primarily an art gallery, but there is some archeology and ethnography as well. Most of the older art is religious (perhaps unsurprisingly), but there was a reasonable amount of modern art as well. I was a bit surprised at the number of coats of arms, formerly on buildings, that were on display, given the prevalence of such remaining in the streets. One hardly needs to go into a museum to see these.

After that I headed to the Centro Documental de la Memoria Histórica, which had been recommended by one of the pilgrims staying here. It is focused on the post-war years, primarily the 50s and 60s, which are documented through the collection of a photographer on display.

Finally, I used my remaining time to see a bit of street art in the central city, as found through my Street Art app, before heading out to a nice lunch, a bit if grocery shopping, and back to the albergue for a rest and open up.

Since then it has been pretty quiet and I am alone here now.

Photos:
3 from the Museo de Salamanca, 2 from the Centro Documental de la Memoria Histórica, and one of some street art

 

[Pilgrim9]

David, you have convinced me to visit and thoroughly explore Salamanca. Thank you.

 

[David Tallan]

Saturday 26 October 2024

It is about 6:30 pm and today, so far, has been even quieter than yesterday. We had two more pilgrims arrive yesterday, at about 9 pm, a Romanian couple who have walked the Camino Mozarabe from Almería and walked over 50 km yesterday to get here. With the one pilgrim who asked for an extra day, so far we are just 4 pilgrims tonight (one of whom seemed to say, if I understood him correctly, he would be leaving in the middle of the night to catch a train to Madrid, returning in the spring to complete his Camino. None have so far requested an extra day.

It took a bit longer than usual this morning to get the pilgrims out and on their way. The last finally left at about 8:45. This morning it was cold and wet but that did not deter me from setting off to see two other places I had not yet seen: a convent and a ducal palace.

The Convent Museum of Santa Clara, was founded as a convent of the Poor Clares in 1238, but was completely remodeled at the end of the 15th century and the beginning of the 16th. It was a Poor Clare convent until 2019, when the last of the nuns left, and has been operating as a museum since then. What chiefly drew me to the building was reports of medieval paintings. These are primarily in evidence on the walls of the lower choir and on the mudejar roof, which is hidden above the church ceiling, but to which access is provided. I haven't included photos of all of the roof paintings. They feature a lot of heraldry, which according to the audioguide tells the story of 13th century dynastic conflicts. For this part, I just include a fun detail. I'm also including below a photo if the convent church, when you see it, you will see why there was a bit of cognitive dissonance in seeing it amongst the Poor Clares.

From Santa Clara, I made my way to the Palacio de Monterrey, one of the homes of the Duke of Alba, apparently still sometimes in use by the family. For a relatively hefty fee, you can tour the palace, but once again interior photos are strictly forbidden. I've seen several royal palaces in my time. It was interesting to see a ducal one. It was built in the 16th century by leading architects of the time, but has been remodeled to meet the needs of subsequent centuries. You can really see the stamp of the family on the palace. In addition, you can see some of the servant quarters (not ones actively in use, of course), as well as the laundry room (which doesn't yet have an electric washer and dryer - perhaps they now send out any laundry), the cold storage room (which does have a refrigerator) and the kitchen.

On the way from the convent to the palace, I passed through the Plaza Mayor where there was some sort of big police ceremony going on. I was given to understand that it was the 25th anniversary of some date of significance for the local police.

After the palace was the usual shopping and lunch before heading back to the albergue. I am slowly but surely making my way through the different first and second course options of my subsidized menu del dia.

In the albergue, it has been very quiet, as I indicated in the beginning. I did get a WhatsApp from my local friends that I met on the Salvador. They had been intending to take me to the village of La Aberca tomorrow but latest reports are that it is covered in snow! They are going to a concert tonight at 9. Perhaps we will get together afterwards. If so, I expect tomorrow will be a restful say.

Photos:
Convent of Santa Clara (×4), Police event in the Plaza Mayor, Palacio de Monterrey

 

[Harris]

My French is not nearly as good as it was before starting to learn Spanish. Now, whenever I seek a word or expression in French my Spanish (un)fortunately appears and says "Oh, you seem to be looking for a foreign language. Here I am!".

I too had Hospitalera training in CA (BC- Victoria). After dealing with injury from last Fall Camino Portuguese, and recovering, I am now looking for a posting, maybe for next year.
So thank you for all of this information. An albergue such as the one where you are in Salamanca would be “Do-able” for an older but fit woman such as myself.
Thank you again……

 

[AlanSykes]

They had been intending to take me to the village of La Aberca tomorrow

Hope you manage to visit. Buñuel filmed his surrealist "documentary" "Las Hurdes: Tierra Sin Pan" around there. It belonged to your new mates the Dukes of Alba.

If you're running out of things to see in Salamanca itself, Miguel de Unamuno's house is very interesting, with the 6000 volume library that he left to the university (of which he was twice rector), paintings and other stuff. Usually good temporary displays (when I last visited, on his exile under Primo de la Rivera's dictatorship) as well as the permanent collection.

 

[J Willhaus]

Saturday 26 October 2024

It is about 6:30 pm and today, so far, has been even quieter than yesterday. We had two more pilgrims arrive yesterday, at about 9 pm, a Romanian couple who have walked the Camino Mozarabe from Almería and walked over 50 km yesterday to get here. With the one pilgrim who asked for an extra day, so far we are just 4 pilgrims tonight (one of whom seemed to say, if I understood him correctly, he would be leaving in the middle of the night to catch a train to Madrid, returning in the spring to complete his Camino. None have so far requested an extra day.

It took a bit longer than usual this morning to get the pilgrims out and on their way. The last finally left at about 8:45. This morning it was cold and wet but that did not deter me from setting off to see two other places I had not yet seen: a convent and a ducal palace.

The Convent Museum of Santa Clara, was founded as a convent of the Poor Clares in 1238, but was completely remodeled at the end of the 15th century and the beginning of the 16th. It was a Poor Clare convent until 2019, when the last of the nuns left, and has been operating as a museum since then. What chiefly drew me to the building was reports of medieval paintings. These are primarily in evidence on the walls of the lower choir and on the mudejar roof, which is hidden above the church ceiling, but to which access is provided. I haven't included photos of all of the roof paintings. They feature a lot of heraldry, which according to the audioguide tells the story of 13th century dynastic conflicts. For this part, I just include a fun detail. I'm also including below a photo if the convent church, when you see it, you will see why there was a bit of cognitive dissonance in seeing it amongst the Poor Clares.

From Santa Clara, I made my way to the Palacio de Monterrey, one of the homes of the Duke of Alba, apparently still sometimes in use by the family. For a relatively hefty fee, you can tour the palace, but once again interior photos are strictly forbidden. I've seen several royal palaces in my time. It was interesting to see a ducal one. It was built in the 16th century by leading architects of the time, but has been remodeled to meet the needs of subsequent centuries. You can really see the stamp of the family on the palace. In addition, you can see some of the servant quarters (not ones actively in use, of course), as well as the laundry room (which doesn't yet have an electric washer and dryer - perhaps they now send out any laundry), the cold storage room (which does have a refrigerator) and the kitchen.

On the way from the convent to the palace, I passed through the Plaza Mayor where there was some sort of big police ceremony going on. I was given to understand that it was the 25th anniversary of some date of significance for the local police.

After the palace was the usual shopping and lunch before heading back to the albergue. I am slowly but surely making my way through the different first and second course options of my subsidized menu del dia.

In the albergue, it has been very quiet, as I indicated in the beginning. I did get a WhatsApp from my local friends that I met on the Salvador. They had been intending to take me to the village of La Aberca tomorrow but latest reports are that it is covered in snow! They are going to a concert tonight at 9. Perhaps we will get together afterwards. If so, I expect tomorrow will be a restful say.

Photos:
Convent of Santa Clara (×4), Police event in the Plaza Mayor, Palacio de Monterrey
View attachment 179699View attachment 179700View attachment 179701View attachment 179702View attachment 179703View attachment 179704

Phil did a volunteer gig at a language program in a resort near La Aberca a couple of years ago. Lovely, but touristy.

 

[David Tallan]

Hope you manage to visit. Buñuel filmed his surrealist "documentary" "Las Hurdes: Tierra Sin Pan" around there. It belonged to your new mates the Dukes of Alba.

If you're running out of things to see in Salamanca itself, Miguel de Unamuno's house is very interesting, with the 6000 volume library that he left to the university (of which he was twice rector), paintings and other stuff. Usually good temporary displays (when I last visited, on his exile under Primo de la Rivera's dictatorship) as well as the permanent collection.

This is apparently what the village looks like today:

 

[Peter Nordberg]

Hola David,
Thanks for your interesting and funny postings. As I understand it you will do the Camino Torres after your time as hospitalero (?) Im planning to do it in April next year (starting in Almeria in February). Are you planning to share your experiencies from Torres here as well? Not much information about Torres so would be very appreciated.
Best regards
Peter

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Hope you manage to visit. Buñuel filmed his surrealist "documentary" "Las Hurdes: Tierra Sin Pan" around there. It belonged to your new mates the Dukes of Alba.

If you're running out of things to see in Salamanca itself, Miguel de Unamuno's house is very interesting, with the 6000 volume library that he left to the university (of which he was twice rector), paintings and other stuff. Usually good temporary displays (when I last visited, on his exile under Primo de la Rivera's dictatorship) as well as the permanent collection.

And don't miss Almodovar's "While At War". Moody Salamanca.

 

[David Tallan]

Hola David,
Thanks for your interesting and funny postings. As I understand it you will do the Camino Torres after your time as hospitalero (?) Im planning to do it in April next year (starting in Almeria in February). Are you planning to share your experiencies from Torres here as well? Not much information about Torres so would be very appreciated.
Best regards
Peter

I'm definitely planning to share those experiences, in the appropriate sub-forums (Torres and Geira). Look for them starting November 2.

 

[Perambulating Griffin]

My French is not nearly as good as it was before starting to learn Spanish. Now, whenever I seek a word or expression in French my Spanish (un)fortunately appears and says "Oh, you seem to be looking for a foreign language. Here I am!".

Oh! This is so funny and frustrating. There was a time when I was effectively bilingual — with Quebecois step-family from early childhood — now I am a little less proficient just from lack of use… but I find that a hazard of some of the more ‘popular’ routes out of France can be that I end up in the company of French people — then I fall into the ease of being able to chat away… and then we run into company with Spanish speaking walkers, or I get into a village… need to communicate in Spanish… and my vocabulary becomes something like polyglot whack-a-mole. As you say, a word from one of the foreign languages just pops up and says “Pick me!” — but it’s often that I’ve spoken a bit of French to the Spanish person, and some Spanish to the French person, and then I’m just a discombobulated mess in the middle!
I wonder if this is just a “phase” in my language development…
Anyway, your description made me laugh…

 

[David Tallan]

Sunday 27 October 2024

Another quiet day, also with 4 pilgrims, all Spanish, 2 of whom already walking the Via Augusta from Cadiz.

I was clearly very tired yesterday. I went to lie down shortly after 10, phone in hand, figuring it would wake me when my friends texted me that their concert was over. I woke up just after midnight to see a message from my friends sent at about 11 saying that they were giving up on me. Some other time. In the morning I also saw the two messages that preceded it. Probably just as well that Spain ended its daylight savings time last night so I got an extra hour of sleep.

The theme for today is "walking right by things without noticing that they are there". Yesterday my wife asked me if I had found any geocaches here in Salamanca, and I realized that I had completely forgotten about them. For those who aren't aware, geocaches are little things that are hidden. The GPS coordinates are published and you can go and look for them. If you find them, you can write your name in the included logbook and log the find on the website or in the app. Often they are hidden by places of interest, so they can take you to places you might otherwise miss. One of the things I like about geocaching is that it can engender the feeling of a hidden world right beside ours that we walk right past without noticing it. So I decided to look for some geocaches this morning.

I hunted for six geocaches this morning and found three of them. Some were in places I had been before (sometimes several times, like by the Cathedral, by the Palacio de Monterrey, the Convent of San Esteban), and some were in new places. While walking between geocaches, I stopped at a chocolate and churros kiosk that my friends had recommended and had some chocolate and churros. It was a popular place.

After my geocaching, I went to do a bit more shopping. My usual lunch place is closed on Sundays so I got myself some takeout. I also picked up a University of Salamanca hoodie. Originally I had been planning to send it ahead to Santiago but now I'm thinking an extra layer available for my November Camino may not be a bad thing. Today was another cold, damp day. On my shopping walk I finally noticed a building I had walked by numerous times, never noticing it was covered in sculpture.

I finished my morning with a visit to the ancient wall exhibit I had also passed by several times, before being alerted to it by one of the pilgrims. It is just across the road from the Cave of Salamanca, and I had always been so focused on the School of Necromancy that I hadn't noticed it at all. It was a nice, free exhibit with a welcoming and informative custodian. You can see pre-Roman and 13th century walls of Salamanca and there are informative panels with maps, photos, and descriptions of the history of the city's defenses.

Then it was back to the albergue for lunch and a nap and rest. Opening up and greeting the few pilgrims we have for a quiet afternoon.

Photos: there's a geocache hidden in this wall not far from the Roman bridge, here it is, popular churro kiosk, I hadn't noticed this building, pre-Roman walls of Salamanca.

 

[donalomahony]

Hi David, thank you for your interesting posts, I enjoy reading them.

There was an Irish College in Salamanca

Irish College at Salamanca - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

An interesting book was also written in 2019, "The Salamanca Diaries, Father McCabe and the Spanish Civil War"

Preview: https://books.google.ie/books?id=Q4...ir=0&gboemv=1&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false

Just another snippet of information for you! I relaxed in Salamanca for 4 days after walking the Norte in 2019. Take care..

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

David, amazing that you are still finding so many new experiences to share - many thanks.
I was searching through some old photo albums earlier. I came across a number of Street art photos that I took in the mid to late 90s. , couldn't help but think of you and this thread.

 

[David Tallan]

Hi David, thank you for your interesting posts, I enjoy reading them.

There was an Irish College in Salamanca

Irish College at Salamanca - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

An interesting book was also written in 2019, "The Salamanca Diaries, Father McCabe and the Spanish Civil War"

Preview: https://books.google.ie/books?id=Q4...ir=0&gboemv=1&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false

Just another snippet of information for you! I relaxed in Salamanca for 4 days after walking the Norte in 2019. Take care..

View attachment 179785View attachment 179786

Thanks for the info. Google Maps, unfortunately. Doesn't tell me where the college was located, but it does point me to a Royal Scots College.

 

[donalomahony]

Thanks for the info. Google Maps, unfortunately. Doesn't tell me where the college was located, but it does point me to a Royal Scots College.

Following a bit of digging I found this reference. It refers to the location of the Irish College following the Peninsular Wars... I think it is this building https://www.tripadvisor.ie/Hotel_Re...a_Province_of_Salamanca_Castile_and_Leon.html

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola - some really great detective work. Hopefully I will be able to see it when/if I get to Salamanca next May. Cheers

 

[David Tallan]

Monday 28 October 2024

We had a fifth pilgrim roll in yesterday, a British bicigrino. He spent a fair amount of time chatting with our Israeli bicigrino, who wasn't staying the night (I draw the line before a third night) but I let him keep his stuff here during the day as long as it is gone before we close at 10 (which is when his host for last night was going to be home).

A number of the pilgrims were out quite early this morning. I heard them up and getting ready before 6. And no one stayed too late. That left me some time to leisurely do my chores and get ready for my own departure. I didn't have any specific plans this morning or sights that I wanted to see. So I went on my Wikiloc app and looked for a walking route that someone had recorded in the vicinity. As it turned out, there was a circuit of about 6 km of "Tour Turístico Salamanca" that went right by the albergue (it included a walk around the Huerto de Calixto y Melibea).

So that was how I spent much of my morning, walking the Wikiloc route. I figured it was also practice for my upcoming Caminos where I will also be walking logged Wikiloc trails. Since I've been here a couple of weeks already, more or less, and seen many of the sights, I was covering a lot of familiar ground. But, like yesterday, I was able to see them with fresh eyes and from different angles, often noticing things I hadn't before. And the route took me on some streets I hadn't been down before, past some new art and churches I hadn't seen. And I did find one more geocache - quickly, on my first attempt.

After my circuit landed me back at the albergue, I headed out for the usual lunch and shopping, then rested and caught up on social media before opening for the day at about 3. Today is Italian day here at our albergue. Six of our ten pilgrims are Italian. It would have been seven out of eleven, but the eleventh changed her mind about staying here after I had signed her in and told her the rules. It was the 10 pm curfew that she wasn't ready for. So she found somewhere else to stay.

One of our new pilgrims, who walked from Cadiz, is suffering from bad blisters. He has been walking successive very long days. He asked about help getting a taxi to a hostal/hotel where he will rest a few days. This isn't something I've had to deal with before, so I initially reached out to Ken (via WhatsApp) to ask for a taxi recommendation but then I remembered to check the inside front cover of the registry where the important numbers are and found a taxi number there. It's quiet time in the albergue now, and I think I will wrap this up and get back to my book.

Photos:
I hadn't noticed the locks people had left in today Huerto de Calixto y Melibea (Garden of the Spanish Romeo and Juliet) before; nor had I noticed this detail on a door by the Plaza de Colin, a Plaza I have visited numerous times; passing through the Plaza Mayor, I stopped at the Cafe Novelty (est. 1905) for a selfie with my buddy Gonzalo Torrente Ballester, the famous Spanish writer; leaving the Plaza Mayor I passed through the nearby Mercado Central de Abastos (which I think of as like a much smaller version of the St. Lawrence Market of home), where I noticed for the first time there is a lower level, where I saw these fowl; and, of course, more street art.

 

[CWBuff]

David, I notice you look just like your avatar. Did you once say your wife had drawn it.

I did indeed. She drew it for my personal sello, and I adopted it for my social media avatar. She drew it after my 2016 Camino, from which I returned with a beard (which I promptly shaved off). I think she was trying to ensure I never came back with a beard again. If do, she was successful. If I grow a beard on Camino, people won't recognize me from the stamp.

I was going to comment on that as well. It reminded me of the true story from the ACW lore that went roughly like this:
one day Jefferson Davis was riding his horse and he was stopped by a man who asked him

-Excuse me Sir but you would happen to be President Jefferson Davis would you?​

-I am that, said Davis​

-Ah I thought so! You look so much like the likeness on the postal stamp​

 

[RodlaRob]

Hi David
Really enjoying your posts as have passed through Salamanca on several Caminos. Plus we get to hear about Albergue life from "the other side"!
As per my earlier post, as you are about to embark on Camino Torres, you should track this location down

 

[filly]

David, amazing that you are still finding so many new experiences to share - many thanks.
I was searching through some old photo albums earlier. I came across a number of Street art photos that I took in the mid to late 90s. , couldn't help but think of you and this thread.

Copenhagen this weekend…

 

[David Tallan]

Hi David
Really enjoying your posts as have passed through Salamanca on several Caminos. Plus we get to hear about Albergue life from "the other side"!
As per my earlier post, as you are about to embark on Camino Torres, you should track this location down

Done already. It is right by the Cueva de Salamanca (aka "School of Necromancy"). I wonder why they put it there. I hope he wasn't a student!

 

[peregrina2000]

Done already. It is right by the Cueva de Salamanca (aka "School of Necromancy"). I wonder why they put it there. I hope he wasn't a student!

I’m pretty sure he was a catedrático in Mathematics during the 18th century. Kind of a creepy look, don’t you think?

 

[David Tallan]

I’m pretty sure he was a catedrático in Mathematics during the 18th century. Kind of a creepy look, don’t you think?

But maybe he was studying Necromancy on the side? Why else put him there?

 

[peregrina2000]

But maybe he was studying Necromancy on the side? Why else put him there?

I was curious and did a bit more sleuthing. I now understand why the email for the Camino Torres uses “el gran piscator” as its name. It’s Torres’ psuedonym for his body of work dealing with the occult. See wikipedia. He was quite the Renaissance man — described as a writer, poet, playwright, doctor, mathematician, priest and chaired professor at Univ. of Salamanca.

This document says that yes indeed Prof. Torres described himself as “part witch, part astrologer.” He had an almanac that made predictions. So maybe this camino is more than a Catholic pilgrimage!

 

[David Tallan]

Tuesday 29 October 2024

It's about 5:00 and so far we have 4 pilgrims staying here, 2 Italians who are staying over from yesterday and 2 new Spanish pilgrims, a couple of men and little older than me. The Italians are obviously hurting and went to see a doctor yesterday who advised several days rest. They asked me if they could stay an extra day while they sorted out lodgings for the rest of their recuperative time in Salamanca and I said yes. Tomorrow they are off to a pension. The two Spanish men said I shouldn't expect any more pilgrims today except perhaps some bicigrinos later. Everyone else in their cohort has taken private rooms here in Salamanca.

Yesterday I made the first decision about which I am really having second thoughts. It was after 9pm and a guy walked in. He said he had been told he might find a place to sleep here and showed me something that had obviously been translated into Spanish for him that seemed to say that he was on a pilgrimage from Strasbourg to Portugal and hoping for kindness. He wasn't walking or cycling but using an electric scooter. Needless to say, he didn't have a credencial.

We weren't full and my eye had been caught by the pilgrimage word in what he presented. I try and, within reason, go by the golden rule (Do not do unto others what you would not have them do unto you) as hospitalero, so I didn't turn him out but said he could stay. But it wasn't long before I was having second thoughts. Not because of anything he did or didn't do. He behaved perfectly fine. But because it really isn't my albergue. I am administering it for others and trying to keep more or less to their rules. They've built and operate this albergue for Santiago pilgrims, or pilgrims on Camino routes (even if they are going south, away from Santiago). I feel I stepped a little too far from the rules with this judgement call. But once I had said it was okay, I wasn't going to take it back.

Oh well, that was yesterday. He has moved on physically. I should move on mentally.

I headed out this morning to do the shopping. The sky looked pretty grey, so I checked the weather forecast. 2% chance of rain. I don't need a rain jacket or umbrella. Guess what, a few blocks away and it started raining. I went back to the albergue, waited half an hour for it to pass, and then headed out again with an umbrella. On the way to the supermarket, I stopped in again at the beautiful Palacio de la Salina. After shopping, I went again to the Art Nouveau/Art Deco Museum at Casa Lis. I misremembered Tuesday as the free day when it is Thursday, but just as well because I have other plans for Thursday morning (a visit to the laundromat). This time, I surreptitiously broke the rules and took a few photos.

Back at the albergue, as the numbers suggest, it has been super quiet.

Photos: door (a door or two down from us); satirical figures at Casa Lis; Salamanca streets

 

[WalkinRon]

Your dilemma brought Monsignor Bienvenu to mind. You can't be faulted for providing a place to sleep. Just don't go handing out any candlesticks!

Buen Camino!

 

[J Willhaus]

Tuesday 29 October 2024

It's about 5:00 and so far we have 4 pilgrims staying here, 2 Italians who are staying over from yesterday and 2 new Spanish pilgrims, a couple of men and little older than me. The Italians are obviously hurting and went to see a doctor yesterday who advised several days rest. They asked me if they could stay an extra day while they sorted out lodgings for the rest of their recuperative time in Salamanca and I said yes. Tomorrow they are off to a pension. The two Spanish men said I shouldn't expect any more pilgrims today except perhaps some bicigrinos later. Everyone else in their cohort has taken private rooms here in Salamanca.

Yesterday I made the first decision about which I am really having second thoughts. It was after 9pm and a guy walked in. He said he had been told he might find a place to sleep here and showed me something that had obviously been translated into Spanish for him that seemed to say that he was on a pilgrimage from Strasbourg to Portugal and hoping for kindness. He wasn't walking or cycling but using an electric scooter. Needless to say, he didn't have a credencial.

We weren't full and my eye had been caught by the pilgrimage word in what he presented. I try and, within reason, go by the golden rule (Do not do unto others what you would not have them do unto you) as hospitalero, so I didn't turn him out but said he could stay. But it wasn't long before I was having second thoughts. Not because of anything he did or didn't do. He behaved perfectly fine. But because it really isn't my albergue. I am administering it for others and trying to keep more or less to their rules. They've built and operate this albergue for Santiago pilgrims, or pilgrims on Camino routes (even if they are going south, away from Santiago). I feel I stepped a little too far from the rules with this judgement call. But once I had said it was okay, I wasn't going to take it back.

Oh well, that was yesterday. He has moved on physically. I should move on mentally.

I headed out this morning to do the shopping. The sky looked pretty grey, so I checked the weather forecast. 2% chance of rain. I don't need a rain jacket or umbrella. Guess what, a few blocks away and it started raining. I went back to the albergue, waited half an hour for it to pass, and then headed out again with an umbrella. On the way to the supermarket, I stopped in again at the beautiful Palacio de la Salina. After shopping, I went again to the Art Nouveau/Art Deco Museum at Casa Lis. I misremembered Tuesday as the free day when it is Thursday, but just as well because I have other plans for Thursday morning (a visit to the laundromat). This time, I surreptitiously broke the rules and took a few photos.

Back at the albergue, as the numbers suggest, it has been super quiet.

Photos: door (a door or two down from us); satirical figures at Casa Lis; Salamanca streets

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If it is any consolation, it doesn't get easier to turn people away.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

David, I understand why you ended up having second thoughts but I'm not so sure that I would not have done the same as you in your place.

Let's face it if he'd been walking rather than on an electric scooter, and said he was on a pilgrimage to Fatima you probably would have slept easily. Ditto if he'd actually had a credential, which is easy enough to obtain (and falsely use).

 

[Peregrinopaul]

I think you made the right decision. But I sincerely hope he recognised his good fortune by contributing appropriately in the donativo box.

 

[RJM]

I wouldn't sweat the electric scooter pilgrim. Yeah, he was definitely iffy as far as having legitimate pilgrim status, but the Albergue wasn't full, and his presence didn't prevent anyone else from staying there. Also, he behaved well and left without incident. Without a doubt he is small beans and innocuous compared to actual nefarious creeps and thieves playing pilgrim that slip through the cracks and bunk up in Albergue's every year on all the different routes.

 

[dick bird]

Glad everyone agrees you did the right thing re the electric scooter guy. I’d have done the same. It may be someone else’s albergue, but you the Hospitalero are in charge and you have to take the decisions and accept responsibility for them. You used common sense and compassion: the two principal qualities of a good Hospi.

 

[David Tallan]

30 October 2024

We have 8 pilgrims so far today (it is about 4:30). None have stayed over from yesterday.

The super quiet evening yesterday was punctuated by two events. I had a visit from Jose Pepe, a local who has worked elsewhere as a hospitalero and helped to paint the markings for the Camino Torres. He just wanted to chat. We also had a visit form a postal worker delivering more credencials. We had pretty much run out of the regular credencials and just had some locally made ones that were specific to the Via de la Plata (and Sanabres) from Salamanca. With the quiet evening it was a bit tough to stay awake, and as all our pilgrims were back, I locked up 15 minutes early. I figured there wasn't much chance of a new pilgrim arriving so late and, if they did, they could ring the bell and I would let them in.

This morning, everyone was out by 8. But they weren't the only ones early. The cleaner was much earlier than usual and i also had a surprise visit from Ken, who was just here to chat.

After our bit of conversation, today's itinerary was the Colegio Arzobispo Fonseca (also known as the Irish College, because that college was also housed there) and the house/museum of Miguel de Unamuno, a famous Spanish writer and liberal. He was also twice rector of the University of Salamanca (with a gap during the dictatorship of Primo de Rivera). The museum is in the rectory of the University. According to the tour guide, Unamuno was the only rector to have actually resided there (during his first stint as rector), all the other rectors being either locals with another place to live or too old to handle all the stairs. It was an interesting view into the period.

The tour ended about noon, and I sat in the garden by the albergue for a while before heading to lunch. I was joined at lunch by Ken and then Victor. Victor invited me to join him tomorrow at 10:30am at the Plaza Mayor for some fiesta festivities. That really throws off my plans to visit the laundromat tomorrow morning, but it is an opportunity not to be missed. If my replacement arrives tomorrow, perhaps I will be able to do some laundry in the evening at the laundromat. If not, perhaps on Friday if it is open on the holiday (All Saints Day) and if my local friends don't have plans for me.

Photos: Colegio Arzobispo Fonseca (×3), Casa Museo Miguel de Unamuno (×3)

 

[Stephan the Painter]

He had found it on a website streetartcities.com.

That's a great website. I didn't know it, but I've been looking for something like that all my life!

The world's street art community - Street Art Cities

The world's street art community. Find your city and explore the artworks around you.

streetartcities.com

And thanks for sharing your adventures and reminding me about Salamanca, one of my favorite Spanish cities.

 

[donalomahony]

30 October 2024

We have 8 pilgrims so far today (it is about 4:30). None have stayed over from yesterday.

The super quiet evening yesterday was punctuated by two events. I had a visit from Jose Pepe, a local who has worked elsewhere as a hospitalero and helped to paint the markings for the Camino Torres. He just wanted to chat. We also had a visit form a postal worker delivering more credencials. We had pretty much run out of the regular credencials and just had some locally made ones that were specific to the Via de la Plata (and Sanabres) from Salamanca. With the quiet evening it was a bit tough to stay awake, and as all our pilgrims were back, I locked up 15 minutes early. I figured there wasn't much chance of a new pilgrim arriving so late and, if they did, they could ring the bell and I would let them in.

This morning, everyone was out by 8. But they weren't the only ones early. The cleaner was much earlier than usual and i also had a surprise visit from Ken, who was just here to chat.

After our bit of conversation, today's itinerary was the Colegio Arzobispo Fonseca (also known as the Irish College, because that college was also housed there) and the house/museum of Miguel de Unamuno, a famous Spanish writer and liberal. He was also twice rector of the University of Salamanca (with a gap during the dictatorship of Primo de Rivera). The museum is in the rectory of the University. According to the tour guide, Unamuno was the only rector to have actually resided there (during his first stint as rector), all the other rectors being either locals with another place to live or too old to handle all the stairs. It was an interesting view into the period.

The tour ended about noon, and I sat in the garden by the albergue for a while before heading to lunch. I was joined at lunch by Ken and then Victor. Victor invited me to join him tomorrow at 10:30am at the Plaza Mayor for some fiesta festivities. That really throws off my plans to visit the laundromat tomorrow morning, but it is an opportunity not to be missed. If my replacement arrives tomorrow, perhaps I will be able to do some laundry in the evening at the laundromat. If not, perhaps on Friday if it is open on the holiday (All Saints Day) and if my local friends don't have plans for me.

Photos: Colegio Arzobispo Fonseca (×3), Casa Museo Miguel de Unamuno (×3)
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I'm delighted you got to visit the Irish College of Salamanca. I took a screen grab from one of your photos. The text made me smile!

 

[peregrina2000]

He was also twice rector of the University of Salamanca (with a gap during the dictatorship of Primo de Rivera).

He was in exile for those years and is reported to have started his first lecture upon his return with “como decíamos ayer….”

I think you have left no stone unturned during your stint in Salamanca!

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola @David Tallan I am going to miss your fantastic "notes from Salamanca" it has been real eye-opener into the life of an hospitalero. The opportunity to celebrate "All Hallos Eve" tonight and then All Saints Day tomorrow is one that I suggest you not miss.
Now about those Salamanca Credentials. I still have the one issued by the CSJ back in 2013, due to their system failure it did not arrive until I was on the camino, but would like to see your special ones.

Thanks again, Buen Camino.

 

[dick bird]

He was in exile for those years and is reported to have started his first lecture upon his return with “como decíamos ayer….”

Sadly, a quote once widely attributed to him:
¨You will win because you have an abundance of brute force, but you will not convince. To convince, you need to persuade, and to persuade you need something you lack: reason and right¨ was actually made up by Luis Portillo - but it's still a brilliant quote. A few months after the confrontation with Astray and his thugs, he was dead. A great man.

 

[Kirkie]

I'm delighted you got to visit the Irish College of Salamanca. I took a screen grab from one of your photos. The text made me smile!View attachment 179964

Your reply led me to think of stitches. As in, fabrications, constructions. That is a way of looking, no? at who and what we are... the jumper (sweater, to other cultures) I wear is made up of stitches (incidentally, Aran jumper stitches were particular to families. When a sailor/fisherman was washed ashore, his jumper told who he was, who he belonged to, because the stitch was peculiar to his family).
Our interconnectedness is too long back, but are we not all Jock Tamson's bairns? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jock_Tamson's_bairns

 

[Friend from Barquinha]

Our interconnectedness is too long back, but are we not all Jock Tamson's bairns? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jock_Tamson's_bairns

Good All Saints' Day, all of you in Iberia, tomorrow. I see it is a holiday in Spain as it is here in Portugal.

I just looked up Jock Tamson's bairns (interesting!) and thought I would bring in Ze Povinho, the Portuguese equivalent (with perhaps a bit more cynical attitude), much-loved here.

Zé Povinho - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Bom feriado, todos!

 

[AlanSykes]

You will win because you have an abundance of brute force, but you will not convince.

The quote in Spanish is much more powerful, partly because of the wordplay: "Venceréis, pero no convenceréis."

 

[David Tallan]

31 October 2025

What a day! But first, the usual. Very quiet here today (although it is only 4 o'clock), just two peregrinas from Taiwan and my replacement, Valentín.

I got up at my usual 6:00 and, wonder of all wonders, all 8 pilgrims were gone by 7:45. So I decided to do some laundry after all so that I could set off on my Camino with clean clothes and Valentín can sleep in clean sheets. I did my laundry and had time to get to Plaza Mayor to meet Victor. Victor was traditionally dressed in a nice embroidered cape and carrying a drum and a sort of recorder with three holes that can be played with one hand while drumming. There were others with similar instruments and women in traditional, finely embroidered dresses. Victor also had a cardboard box with a dove inside, that he gave to me to carry.

After we had gathered enough, we set out from the Plaza Mayor, playing as we walked, to a nearby square, where music was played and traditional dances were danced. Other small musical groups joined us, and we marched back into the Plaza Mayor. Eventually, we were joined by Angel Rufino, "el Mariquelo", who was introduced as someone important. With him was another drummer and an accordionist. After a bit, Angel led the procession from Plaza Mayor to the Cathedral.

I didn't know who "el Mariquelo" was, and didn't find out until later, but I will share the information with you now as some context. From the Spanish Wikipedia:

The Mariquelo was originally a member of a family, the Mariquelos, who had to climb the tower of the New Cathedral of Salamanca every year , in gratitude to God because the Lisbon earthquake of 1755 had barely damaged the building and caused no fatalities.

This tradition has been maintained uninterruptedly from 1755 until today, except for 8 years between 1977 and 1984.

Today, the tradition is continued by Angel Rufino (currently Mariquelo), who goes up to the cathedral on All Saints' Eve and, once at the top, looks out onto the balcony to give a message to all the charros.

As we approached the cathedral, Victor entrusted me to the care of the other drummer/assistant with Angel, and I was given a basket with a lid, as well as the cardboard box with the dove. Angel was wired with a microphone. We entered thr part of the cathedral where you can climb the tower. I had to transfer the dove, at this point, from its cardboard box, which had been taped shut, to the basket that I would have to hold shut.

You may recall that I didn't do the climb on the day I visited the cathedral because I decided it would be too stressful. Now I was going to do it carrying a basket with a live dove that I would have to hold shut. We climbed the usual tourist route accompanied by several photographers and videographers, making several stops for photos and do that the Mariquelo could address the crowd. Then we went beyond where the tourists go. At this point, the photographers and videographers were left behind. It was the Mariquelo, his assistant, the accordionist, two local police officers, someone from the cathedral who was unlocking the doors so that we could proceed, and me with the dove.

You could tell that this wasn't where most tourists can climb. For one thing, there was no light. The assistant nicely shone his mobile phone flashlight down so I could see where I was stepping. For another, there were birds nests on the stairs. Eventually, we made it to the very top where the bell is. There was only room for 4 of us. The Mariquelo made his speech. I handed him the basket with the dove, which he released, he played some music and sang, accompanied also by the accordionist, photos were taken on people's phones, and then we headed down again.

I rejoined Victor and his friends and we went to enjoy some wine and tapas in a couple of bars, as well as more traditional music and dancing, before they headed to a restaurant to eat and I headed to the albergue to open up. That was my day so far.

Photos: me with the ladies, music and dancing in the plaza, miking the Mariquelo, me with dove in basket, the crowds below, heading into the darkness of the unlit stairwell, releasing the dove, looking over the nave on the way down

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Wow, what an honour!! That's something you're not going to forget in a hurry.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I love those festival pictures with the girls in their costumes, and the cathedral and tower pics. No releasing of doves when I was there, but there were several stork nests and the parents were flying in and out.

 

[Kirkie]

31 October 2025

What a day! But first, the usual. Very quiet here today (although it is only 4 o'clock), just two peregrinas from Taiwan and my replacement, Valentín.

I got up at my usual 6:00 and, wonder of all wonders, all 8 pilgrims were gone by 7:45. So I decided to do some laundry after all so that I could set off on my Camino with clean clothes and Valentín can sleep in clean sheets. I did my laundry and had time to get to Plaza Mayor to meet Victor. Victor was traditionally dressed in a nice embroidered cape and carrying a drum and a sort of recorder with three holes that can be played with one hand while drumming. There were others with similar instruments and women in traditional, finely embroidered dresses. Victor also had a cardboard box with a dove inside, that he gave to me to carry.

After we had gathered enough, we set out from the Plaza Mayor, playing as we walked, to a nearby square, where music was played and traditional dances were danced. Other small musical groups joined us, and we marched back into the Plaza Mayor. Eventually, we were joined by Angel Rufino, "el Mariquelo", who was introduced as someone important. With him was another drummer and an accordionist. After a bit, Angel led the procession from Plaza Mayor to the Cathedral.

I didn't know who "el Mariquelo" was, and didn't find out until later, but I will share the information with you now as some context. From the Spanish Wikipedia:

As we approached the cathedral, Victor entrusted me to the care of the other drummer/assistant with Angel, and I was given a basket with a lid, as well as the cardboard box with the dove. Angel was wired with a microphone. We entered thr part of the cathedral where you can climb the tower. I had to transfer the dove, at this point, from its cardboard box, which had been taped shut, to the basket that I would have to hold shut.

You may recall that I didn't do the climb on the day I visited the cathedral because I decided it would be too stressful. Now I was going to do it carrying a basket with a live dove that I would have to hold shut. We climbed the usual tourist route accompanied by several photographers and videographers, making several stops for photos and do that the Mariquelo could address the crowd. Then we went beyond where the tourists go. At this point, the photographers and videographers were left behind. It was the Mariquelo, his assistant, the accordionist, two local police officers, someone from the cathedral who was unlocking the doors so that we could proceed, and me with the dove.

You could tell that this wasn't where most tourists can climb. For one thing, there was no light. The assistant nicely shone his mobile phone flashlight down so I could see where I was stepping. For another, there were birds nests on the stairs. Eventually, we made it to the very top where the bell is. There was only room for 4 of us. The Mariquelo made his speech. I handed him the basket with the dove, which he released, he played some music and sang, accompanied also by the accordionist, photos were taken on people's phones, and then we headed down again.

I rejoined Victor and his friends and we went to enjoy some wine and tapas in a couple of bars, as well as more traditional music and dancing, before they headed to a restaurant to eat and I headed to the albergue to open up. That was my day so far.

Photos: me with the ladies, music and dancing in the plaza, miking the Mariquelo, me with dove in basket, the crowds below, heading into the darkness of the unlit stairwell, releasing the dove, looking over the nave on the way down

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How on earth are you going to come down to earth after the absolutely first class hospitalero experience, adopted by the community? I think you will manage. Your hat affords a gravitas that will allow you to walk away, and on your own camino. It has been delightful to follow your reports. Thank you.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola @David Tallan WOW WOW WOW! What an honour and privilege and a great way to complete your Salamanca residency. I suggested that it would be special, but did not realise how special. So Buen Camino my amigo!