LIVE from the Camino Lindsay’s Levante and Invierno

[Lindsay53]

Hola! Not quite 'live' yet, but 43 hours after walking out my front door I arrived in Valencia a couple of hours ago. Had a shower, then a nice meal and a beer in a bar across the road. Now ready for some sleep, but must share one thing first. This afternoon I dropped a 50 euro note at Chamartin station. Didn't notice but heard a woman calling after me to return it. The Camino is already providing.

 

[peregrina2000]

We don’t get too many “live from the Levante” threads, but I’m betting that there is a group of slightly hard-core peregrin@s here on the forum who will enjoy every post you care to make.

Wishing you a wonderful walk on this most wonderful Camino!

 

[henrythedog]

The more detail, the better - please. Buen camino.

 

[ritaj]

Hola! Not quite 'live' yet, but 43 hours after walking out my front door I arrived in Valencia a couple of hours ago. Had a shower, then a nice meal and a beer in a bar across the road. Now ready for some sleep, but must share one thing first. This afternoon I dropped a 50 euro note at Chamartin station. Didn't notice but heard a woman calling after me to return it. The Camino is already providing.

Thinking thinking thinking about the Levante and will be looking forward to hearing all about your walk. Are you walking alone and how much distance (a range) do you expect to do each day. Also would like to know what the weather is like in September and what's out there in the fields. Wishing I could be there this year but maybe next fall...

 

[lt56ny]

We don’t get too many “live from the Levante” threads, but I’m betting that there is a group of slightly hard-core peregrin@s here on the forum who will enjoy every post you care to make.

Wishing you a wonderful walk on this most wonderful Camino!

Yep like me!!!!

 

[Ella L.]

I will be five days behind you! I walked it 8 years ago (when I was 8 years younger). It is a wonderful Way. Buen Camino!

 

[Lindsay53]

Day one, in Almussafes. Had not planned to walk this far on day one but when I got to Silla it seemed too early to stop. 7 hours from Valencia (5hr 45 min actual walking) 26k.
Mostly industrial estates and urban wasteland until Silla, then orchards and rice paddies. Yellow arrows are surprisingly plentiful once on the outskirts of Valencia, but some confusion at motorway and railway crossings. On arriving at the outskirts of Almussafes the arrows point in two different directions! I think one route takes you through town and a newer one tskes you around it.
I am holed up in Hotel Isabel, showered, rested and will soon get to the laundry and into the little jobs that are a pilgrims lot.

 

[Lindsay53]

I will be five days behind you! I walked it 8 years ago (when I was 8 years younger). It is a wonderful Way. Buen Camino!

You may catch me up!

 

[Lindsay53]

Thinking thinking thinking about the Levante and will be looking forward to hearing all about your walk. Are you walking alone and how much distance (a range) do you expect to do each day. Also would like to know what the weather is like in September and what's out there in the fields. Wishing I could be there this year but maybe next fall...

Hi Rita, I am.walking alone, like to average 25 k a day but this will increase on this Camino. Weather was high 20s, overcast and very humid. The humidity was the most noticable aspect today.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Lindsay, Those first few days get tiresome because of all the asphalt, but you will love what comes next! If you like castles, I would highly recommend arranging things so that you have the time and energy to walk up to the castle in Xátiva - it’s a 5-star! (Thanks to JLWV for the correction - I seem to be getting much more confused lately).

And thanks for telling us the names of the places where you are staying, that is so helpful to forum members who are planning. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[JLWV]

I would highly recommend arranging things so that you have the time and energy to walk up to the castle in Moixent - it’s a 5-star!

Moixent? maybe you mean Xativa/Jativa

Buen Camino Lindsay; you start your trip in our first week of rain after a long summer of dryness....

 

[peregrina2000]

Moixent? maybe you mean Xativa/Jativa

Buen Camino Lindsay; you start your trip in our first week of rain after a long summer of dryness....

Oh yes of COURSE, I mean Xátiva. Thanks, @JLWV, I have edited my post. It is really a spectacular castle. I don’t want Lindsay to suffer, but I really am hoping you will get some of that much needed rain!

 

[Lindsay53]

Hello from La Pobla Llarga. Long hot walk today, only a few teasing raindrops then sun and humidity again. The donativo albergue is excellent! One must go to police station to check in, I did not call in advance, just showed up. The bloke at the desk took one look and said 'Camino?' They were friendly and efficient, gave me a lift to the albergue in a police car and gave me a tour of the facilities.
Air conditioning, washing machine, kitchen with fridge, microwave and hotplate and....utensils!!! Nice shower and toilet, 6 single bunks. No wifi though, but not an issue really
The last visitor was nearly one month ago.

BTW I won't be posting every day, just when I have some useful information or something interesting happens

 

[setmeravelles]

¡Buen Camino!

I was planning on starting this Camino later this month, but I changed my mind as I was finding a lot of lodging issues later in September (private rooms in places that were going on vacation or fully booked for a wedding in the pueblo, etc). I still have this high on my Camino Bucket List and look forward to reading about your experiences.

 

[JLWV]

This is LIVE.
I have just seen on TV that today there were severe rains in CANALS, on your way, which make the river Canyoles growing (it was dry!!).
When in Canals get information, and if the river give problems take off the way and go by the road south of the river.
5 years ago due to flooding we marked the way on that road, but time going those marks will be no more visibles. (In that moment a young strong guy from Canada and an older french man could continue their way)

Jean-Luc

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino, Lindsay!
Looking forward to your posts, even if they're sporadic.

 

[Lindsay53]

This is LIVE.
I have just seen on TV that today there were severe rains in CANALS, on your way, which make the river Canyoles growing (it was dry!!).
When in Canals get information, and if the river give problems take off the way and go by the road south of the river.
5 years ago due to flooding we marked the way on that road, but time going those marks will be no more visibles. (In that moment a young strong guy from Canada and an older french man could continue their way)

Jean-Luc

I passed through this area today Jean-Luc
While there is evidence of recent high water flow only once did I need to take off my shoes and wade over a ford, the others were dry. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[Lindsay53]

Hola from La Font de Figuera. Arrived in town after what should have been a straightforward 17 k walk from Moixent, however I allowed the nice scenery to distract me and ended up doing several extra kilometres via a motorway service centre before arriving to find the municipal albergue is shut this weekend because of a fiesta.
However the ladies at the town hall were nice and found me a great room in Hostal Rural Amable, so all is well.

The last few days have been good. There is a brand new rail trail from Manuel to Xativa that cuts about 3 k off the old route, and the way from Xativa to Moixent was fine if a little muddy in places.

The Moixent albergue however was a bit of a let down. Very basic and located in the same building as the police station, the place was filthy. Opened cans and bottles in the fridge, garbage including food scraps in the bins,
the bathroom sink and shower dirty, and I will leave the state of the toilet to your imagination.
The bedding was clean though, and I did a very thorough check for bedbugs and other creatures.

However thats life on the Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

The Moixent albergue however was a bit of a let down. Very basic and located in the same building as the police station, the place was filthy. Opened cans and bottles in the fridge, garbage including food scraps in the bins,

When I walked the Levante, there was no albergue, and my companions stayed in the Red Cross building. They had a similar experience. I stayed in a casa rural.

It’s discouraging to think that other pilgrims are so inconsiderate. I admire your upbeat final sentence!

But think — you are done with all the asphalt!!!

 

[JLWV]

My first stay in Moixent (2014) was in the barracks of the Red Cross (when the military service was still obligatory in Spain, one of the alternatives was to comply in the Red Cross instead of the army) and this albergue was not ‘nice’. After complaints it was transferred where you have been now, which looks not better according to your report.

That same year, in La Font I stayed at the old albergue, in changing room of the sport complex (I think Laurie also did). Now the albergue is a specific building nearby. The second time I stayed there was Saturday afternoon and it was imposible to contact with the Police, so I also went to the Hostal Rural, more expensive but very friendly.

 

[JLWV]

There is a brand new rail trail from Manuel to Xativa that cuts about 3 k off the old route,

You walked it? Fine to know.
Last february a bridge of this Vía Verde over the river Albaida was not yet operational.
Next october 19th our association will be checking this stage of the way.

 

[Jan Runkel]

Yep like me!!!!

Me,too!!

 

[Lindsay53]

Been an interesting couple of days. From Font de Figuera to Almansa was a nice walk in warm but humid weather. Stayed at the Residencia Esclaves de Maria, basic but clean.
From there headed "off track" to Alpera to break up the long 38k stage to Higueruela. I was a bit concerned here as efforts to contact the Alpera albergue had been unsuccessful. At the point where the road diverts from the 'official' camino there are plentiful crosses and arrows showing you the 'right' way, yet once off track there are a few arrows pointing towards Alpera.
On arrival the albergue and town hall were shut ( Sunday afternoon) but a very nice woman who lived near the albergue and spoke pretty good English saw my plght, made some calls, then walked me up to what I think was the mayors house to get a key andmy credencial stamped...The Camino Provides!.
This morning was a nice 21 k to Higuerela. Mostly quiet road walking with the last 7k farm tracks. Well marked with yellow arrows. Maybe this will become the official route?
Called ahead and collected the albergue keys from a bar with no.problem. Small, only 2 bunks, but OK.

 

[Lindsay53]

Currently sitting outside the municipal albergue in La Gineta enjoying a well earned beer. It's only a re-purposed soccer change room but it is fit for purpose.
Met my first peregrinos two days ago in Chinchilla de Montearagon. An older French couple who were walking a section of the Camino Sureste. The.man is 86! I was suitably impressed.
The last few days have been mostly farm tracks with little shade and no water between towns. This has created a situation where I either do relatively short days, 20 k or so, or must do long days around 40k. I have chosen the short option. Not walking in the afternoon heat!

 

[ritaj]

Currently sitting outside the municipal albergue in La Gineta enjoying a well earned beer. It's only a re-purposed soccer change room but it is fit for purpose.
Met my first peregrinos two days ago in Chinchilla de Montearagon. An older French couple who were walking a section of the Camino Sureste. The.man is 86! I was suitably impressed.
The last few days have been mostly farm tracks with little shade and no water between towns. This has created a situation where I either do relatively short days, 20 k or so, or must do long days around 40k. I have chosen the short option. Not walking in the afternoon heat!

Lindsay -- Am following you closely and taking notes! Thank you again for the journey reports.

 

[peregrina2000]

Currently sitting outside the municipal albergue in La Gineta enjoying a well earned beer. It's only a re-purposed soccer change room but it is fit for purpose.

You are so lucky to have gotten in! We had called the Ayuntamiento several days ahead because we knew we would be arriving on a Sunday and they told us to go to the policia local. Well,when we got there, no policia local were anywhere to be found and the sports complex was locked up tight.

We were lucky that there was a train coming by later that afternoon to take us ahead to La Roda. My walking partners were in no way interested in taking a train back the next day to walk those 22flat kms, and I had a hard time shaking the fact that this was the first time I had “skipped” a stage on a camino.

Will you be in the bull ring tomorrow?

 

[Lindsay53]

You are so lucky to have gotten in! We had called the Ayuntamiento several days ahead because we knew we would be arriving on a Sunday and they told us to go to the policia local. Well,when we got there, no policia local were anywhere to be found and the sports complex was locked up tight.

We were lucky that there was a train coming by later that afternoon to take us ahead to La Roda. My walking partners were in no way interested in taking a train back the next day to walk those 22flat kms, and I had a hard time shaking the fact that this was the first time I had “skipped” a stage on a camino.

Will you be in the bull ring tomorrow?

Had no problem with the Ayuntamiento today, but its a weekday. Planning on the bullring in La Roda tomorrow, but after the hassles of last weekend dealing with the local government beurocracy I have booked ahead for Saturday and Sunday in private hostals.

 

[milkybar93]

Most interesting to read your posts Lindsey53. I walked the Levante in September/October 2015 and by now had almost forgotten that I had done so. It's a great camino. I remember staying in the bullring in La Roda and the following day's walk from there to San Clemente. That day became an epic Camino day for me because I managed to stray off the trail. I had hardly heard of Google Maps in 2015 and only used a Nokia non smart phone. My guidebook had rather limited maps and my Spanish was poor enough for me to misinterpret directions, so I ended up taking many hours more to get to the albergue in San Clemente. I haven't thought about that day in quite some time and your posts here are stirring some good memories for me. Thanks for that and do enjoy the rest of your journey to Zamora. ¡ Buen Camino ! and best wishes from Dublin.

 

[Lindsay53]

Hola. In Las Pedroneras this evening, staying at Hostal El Bomba. As the place is unmanned on weekends I had an interesting phone conversation with the owner who I thought was giving me a code for the door when in fact it was a code for a key safe to get the keys to the door. All worked out in the end but I'm thinking of asking DuoLingo for my money back!
Been a repetetive few days through the endless farmland of La Mancha, topped off this morning by getting lost for an hour and a half on the maze of farm tracks. As my phone had issues I had to navigate the old fashioned way. However all worked out.
The albergue in the bullring in La Roda was interesting, and Pedro the caretaker made an excellent restaurant recommendaton. (Flor de La Mancha, just down the road)

 

[Lindsay53]

Hola from Almonacid! It's been a repetetive few days. Same scenery, same weather - cool mornings turning into hot and sunny afternoons which has meant early starts to get to my destination before 13 - 1400.
Major events have been meeting pilgrim no 3, a bloke from Germany who is walking for two weeks and an excellent stay at Casa Rural El Rincon Del Infante in Villa de Don Fadrique. I had booked ahead and after 27 hot and thirsty kilometres I knocked on the door, was welcomed by Juan the host, given a cold beer and some tapas while the paperwork was done, then shown to my room where the other host, Madelena? told me to give her my dirty clothes for washing....next morning a huge breakfast was laid out at 0600 and I'm afraid I disappointed Juan by being unable to do.justice to it. A great place run by lovely people.
Fast forward to todays walk from Tembleqe to Mora, a different story. Some hills replacing the farmland, weather overcast with some light rain and storms in the distance but approaching fast. Got to Mora just as it started to bucket down to find a fiesta happening and every hostal completo. While the ladies at the town hall were trying to find me somewhere the German pilgrim showed up as well. As there was nothing in.town and it was pouring we decided to bus forward 11k to Almonacid and stay at the albergue there. Not bad, only 4 bunks and a shower behind a sports hall.but it does the.job. Toledo tomorrow, all being well.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hola from Almonacid!

Oh the memories! Glad you could stay in Almonacid, because it’s a LONG schlepp from Mora to Toledo. I remember seeing that castle in Almonacid in the distance, not just on the day from Mora, but on the day TO Mora as well! It never seemed to get any closer. When we walked there was no albergue in Almonacid, so we were in a grungy hostal in Mora. Glad to hear the albergue is ok. What was the food situation?

Lots of asphalt tomorrow, as I remember, but the view when you come over the crest and are looking over at the city on the other side of the river. OMG, just so awesome! Just like the El Greco View of Toledo. Lucky you, hoping your weather is good. Buen camino.

 

[Lindsay53]

Oh the memories! Glad you could stay in Almonacid, because it’s a LONG schlepp from Mora to Toledo. I remember seeing that castle in Almonacid in the distance, not just on the day from Mora, but on the day TO Mora as well! It never seemed to get any closer. When we walked there was no albergue in Almonacid, so we were in a grungy hostal in Mora. Glad to hear the albergue is ok. What was the food situation?

Lots of asphalt tomorrow, as I remember, but the view when you come over the crest and are looking over at the city on the other side of the river. OMG, just so awesome! Just like the El Greco View of Toledo. Lucky you, hoping your weather is good. Buen camino.

In the only bar in town right now with a massive tortilla in front of me, and my cunning plan was a long 35k day tomorrow, but that has been cut to a more comfortable 24k.

 

[AlanSykes]

an excellent stay at Casa Rural El Rincon Del Infante in Villa de Don Fadrique. I had booked ahead and after 27 hot and thirsty kilometres I knocked on the door, was welcomed by Juan the host,

So glad that Juan is still thriving. An outstanding, possibly slightly over-attentive host, but wonderful to have laundry done and such warm hospitality. Thrilled that he is still there and still making his hugely generous welcome 10 years after my only stay.

Enjoy Toledo: how could you not?



PS When I stayed in Almonacid the "albergue" was in the swimming pool changing room: a bench or two and some cardboard shared with a few over-attentive cockroaches. Glad to hear it's improved. The bar "Kuki", with its banner stating "Esto es España y al que no le gusto que se vaya" was somewhat less friendly than many Spanish bars. Perhaps it too has improved.

 

[VNwalking]

The bar "Kuki", with it's banner stating "Esto es España y al que no le gusto que se vaya" was somewhat less friendly

Wow. Nice people. I hope they're singing a different song these days.

That view of Toledo has to be one of the highlights of this camino. Timeless.

 

[Lindsay53]

So glad that Juan is still thriving. An outstanding, possibly slightly over-attentive host, but wonderful to have laundry done and such warm hospitality. Thrilled that he is still there and still making his hugely generous welcome 10 years after my only stay.

Enjoy Toledo: how could you not?

View attachment 177819

PS When I stayed in Almonacid the "albergue" was in the swimming pool changing room: a bench or two and some cardboard shared with a few over-attentive cockroaches. Glad to hear it's improved. The bar "Kuki", with its banner stating "Esto es España y al que no le gusto que se vaya" was somewhat less friendly than many Spanish bars. Perhaps it too has improved.

The albergue is in the same place, the bathrooms have recenly been refurbished. However the shower floor is just a flat bit of plastic an the water runs everywhere.
'Kuki' was the name of the bar, didn't see the sign. Definitely for locals rather than tourists or the odd pilgrim though.

 

[JLWV]

I remember seeing that castle in Almonacid in the distance, not just on the day from Mora, but on the day TO Mora as well!

There is a castle just before arriving at Mora, I think it is called ''de Peñas Negras'', and other one in Almonacid.
Both Castilla-La Mancha and Castilla-León are named 'castilla' because they are lands of castles.

 

[Lindsay53]

Remember I said how the landscape was flat and unchanging...that has changed! Hola from San Martin de Valdeigleisias, where I have treated myself to a night in the excellent Hotel Labranza after a rather hard day.
But I'm getting ahead of myself. A few days ago I arrived in Toledo after the walk from Almonacid, and the view of the city was as spectacular as those who have seen it described. Booked two nights in Castillo de San Servando, in the youth hostal section where I had a four bunk room in one of the towers.
Spent a day exploring and catching up on sleep. Toledo is amazing but as the streets are steep and as my castle was on a hill across the river my 'rest day' still meant lots of walking. Also met pilgrim no. 4, Spanish bloke on a bike. More of him later.
Next day I went on to Torrijos, nice mostly flat walk where the Spanish cyclist waved as he rode past. Stayed in Hotel Castilla where I ate way too much for dinner that night.
In the morning off to Escalona where the walk was along barely formed and very overgrown farm tracks for much of the way. Arrived in town, rang the albergue and was told to wait outside someone would be along with the key. Who should show up but Juan the Spanish cyclist who was having a rest day and seemingly had the only key. Seems he was contacted and asked to let me in!
Todays walk to San Martin was very different. Almost continuous uphill for 7 hours with a steep descent at the end. Some road followed by tracks through forest and national park. Some of the tracks very rough.
But now in my nice hotel - family run in an old medieval building and they did my washing for 5 euros - and about to find a meal and a well earned beer!

 

[Lindsay53]

BED RACE ON THE LEVANTE! Yes folks, you heard it here first! Today in the small village of Gotarrendura there are four, yes four peregrinos! The albergue is completo!
I must away at zero dark thirty tomorow morning to beat the rush!

 

[peregrina2000]

BED RACE ON THE LEVANTE! Yes folks, you heard it here first! Today in the small village of Gotarrendura there are four, yes four peregrinos! The albergue is completo!
I must away at zero dark thirty tomorow morning to beat the rush!

Ah, Gotarrendura, the place where Santa Teresa was supposedly born, and the family dovecote is still standing! I’m wondering about the food situation. There was a bar in the center, and the owners always opened whenever a pilgrim showed up, rest days be damned! Such a nice gesture. I also remember that when I was there a huge box of setas arrived, and the owner sauteed me up a big bunch. I have never figured out the proper English equivalent — these are mushrooms, but not the white button mushrooms. They are brown and wavy - any guesses as to which mushroom they most resemble? I am not a mushroom connoissieur, but I love setas!

But wait, how can you be in Gotarrendura? What happened to Ávila and the lovely mountain stages after Cebreros? Last I read you were in San Martín de Valdeiglesias. Hope you got to see the Celtiberian pigs!

Loving your reports, and I bet you will enjoy some time in the beautiful little place of Arévalo (they have several, not just one, beautiful plazas mayores!). And the castle is quite nice as well. Buen camino!

 

[Lindsay53]

Ah, Gotarrendura, the place where Santa Teresa was supposedly born, and the family dovecote is still standing! I’m wondering about the food situation. There was a bar in the , and the owners always opened whenever a pilgrim showed up, rest days be damned! Such a nice gesture. I also remember that when I was there a huge box of setas arrived, and the owner sauteed me up a big bunch. I have never figured out the proper English equivalent — these are mushrooms, but not the white button mushrooms. They are brown and wavy - any guesses as to which mushroom they most resemble? I am not a mushroom connoissieur, but I love setas!

But wait, how can you be in Gotarrendura? What happened to Ávila and the lovely mountain stages after Cebreros? Last I read you were in San Martín de Valdeiglesias. Hope you got to see the Celtiberian pigs!

Loving your reports, and I bet you will enjoy some time in the beautiful little place of (they have , not just one, beautiful plazas mayores!). And the castle is quite nice as well. Buen camino!

Sorry, I have been remiss. Left San Martin and made my way over the hills to San Bartolome de Pinares, a rather hard slog, especially the hill behind Cebreros, and when I got to the top I missed an arrow and went half a kilometre in the wrong direction. The track was rough and difficult to follow in places. By the time I got to San Bart. the ayuntamiento was shut so I couldn't get a key to the albergue. Luckily pilgrim no 5, a German bloke, was already there and let me in. His German Levante guide book mentioned an adress where a key could be got, so off we went in search. Found it eventually and I got a key and was officially let in.
Next day to Avila was more of the same, steep hills and animal trails across the high pastures and scrubland. Spectacular scenery though. Crossed the highest point on the Levante, Puerto de el Boqueren, 1315 metres. Then downhill, mostly across farmland on ill defined tracks to Avila, a city with spectacular walls and architecture. Toured the cathederal - amazing - and had Hungry Jacks for dinner before bed in the very nice Hostal Dona Juana.
Next day on to Gottarendura, a nice fairly flat walk. Just after I arrived the German bloke showed up as well.
Andrea, the lady who looks after the albergue, also runs the bar. She told us if we wanted a feed to come to the bar. She made an excellent meal of chicken. pasta and salad that went down well with a couple of beers. There is no shop in town and only the one bar I think.
At this point pilgrims no. 6 and 7 showed up, a Spanish couple who started from Avila that morning.
Turns out my bed race fears were unfounded! They were staying in the 'albergue turistico' which is attached to, but seperate from the 4 bunk pilgrims albergue where Klaus the German and I were staying.
A really nice walk this morning to Arevalo where I have a room in Hostal del Campo and I am currently in a nice bar with another well earned beer.

 

[VNwalking]

But wait, how can you be in Gotarrendura? What happened to Ávila and the lovely mountain stages after Cebreros? Last I read you were in San Martín de Valdeiglesias. Hope you got to see the Celtiberian pigs!

Linsay's just out walking, but at least we got the short version.
Buen camino, peregrina!

 

[Lindsay53]

Left Gottarendura on a very cold morning, gloves needed! Warmed up to a mild and sunny day for a nice 29k walk through farmland and pine forest to Arevalo, where I stayed in Hostal del Campo.
Next day was a long but fairly easy 35k to Medina del Campo through more farmland. Passed through three villages, none of which had any shop open, Sunday I suppose.
Today was a 25k walk over rolling farmland to Siete Iglesias de Trabancos. The albergue is in the town hall. Basic with 4 beds but does the job and handy for the tienda and bar.
Time for a beer then bed

 

[Lindsay53]

Left Siete Iglesias at 0630, promptly got lost in the dark on the farm tracks outside town. After some wasted time and kilometres I found the right route and carried on over the hilly farmland.
Stopped at a cafe in Villafranca de Duro where Klaus the German caught up with me. When he mentioned that he thought I would be further ahead I had to admit my navigational faux pas.
Carried on through the farmland by the Rio Duro. Could see Toro in the distance but it seemed to get no closer. Getting hot by this stage and the steep hill into town was a final challenge.
Staying tonight in Hotel Zaravencia, right on the Plaza Mayor. Toro looks a nice place and after a nap I will explore further.

 

[AlanSykes]

Toro looks a nice place and after a nap I will explore further

Toro is a very nice place and its wine is well worth exploring as well.

 

[Lindsay53]

Here am I tucked up nicely in the excellent muncipal albergue in Villalazan, watching the rain spatter on the windows.
Left Toro at 0700 for a short 20k to Villalazan rather than push the whole 37k to Zamora. Just after leaving town the arrows led me along a very precarious cliffside path, with no obvious way down in the dark so I backtracked to the road and followed that instead.
Started raining soon after which has been fairly constant all day. Followed the road, then a farm track beside the river, then onto the road again. Stayed on the road the rest of the way as the official path here is very overgrown with thorns and blackberries and I gave it up after only a few metres. Obviously not used or maintained for some time.
Arrived in town, found the albergue and a local who pointed it out to me also called the hospitalera, Theresa?, who soon showed up and made me very welcome. 6 beds in a converted school classroom with washing machine, dryer, fridge and microwave, along with tea and coffee. Theresa also brought fresh milk!
About 30 mins. after I arrived Klaus showed up. Seems the rain changed his mind about going all the way to Zamora.
No tienda in town but the bar just up the road did an excellent lunch. Now just passing a wet afternoon and waiting for the bar to open for dinner

 

[JLWV]

Left Toro at 0700 for a short 20k to Villalazan rather than push the whole 37k to Zamora. Just after leaving town the arrows led me along a very precarious cliffside path, with no obvious way down in the dark so I backtracked to the road and followed that instead.

Hi Kindsay, can you give more detail about those arrows to the cliffside? (a PM is OK).

as the official path here is very overgrown with thorns and blackberries and I gave it up after only a few metres.

We shall have a look.
Buen Camino.

 

[Lindsay53]

Hi Kindsay, can you give more detail about those arrows to the cliffside? (a PM is OK).


We shall have a look.
Buen Camino.

PM sent Jean-Luc.

 

[Lindsay53]

Hola from Zamora! 17ks from Villalazan across the flat farmland and I arrived at 1115 this morning. I have booked a hostal for two nights as I want to explore Zamora, however I stopped in at the albergue to get a stamp.
I had practised my Spanish "No quiero una cama, solo sello por favor." The hospitalero heard me out and said " Would you find it easier to speak English?" I was very excited to meet the first English speaking hospi on this camino!
Now that the Levante is done I am still getting my thoughts in order. It was more difficult than other caminos given the isolation, long stages, lack of infrastructure and my poor Spanish. I must say I felt like chucking it in on more than one occasion.
However I did make it and am glad to have done so, a more detailed assessment to follow once I have had time to assess.

 

[milkybar93]

Hola from Zamora! 17ks from Villalazan across the flat farmland and I arrived at 1115 this morning. I have booked a hostal for two nights as I want to explore Zamora, however I stopped in at the albergue to get a stamp.
I had practised my Spanish "No quiero una cama, solo sello por favor." The hospitalero heard me out and said " Would you find it easier to speak English?" I was very excited to meet the first English speaking hospi on this camino!
Now that the Levante is done I am still getting my thoughts in order. It was more difficult than other caminos given the isolation, long stages, lack of infrastructure and my poor Spanish. I must say I felt like chucking it in on more than one occasion.
However I did make it and am glad to have done so, a more detailed assessment to follow once I have had time to assess.

I finished the Levante in Zamora in late 2015 having spent thirty days walking there from Valencia. I was obliged to return home immediately and was regretful at that moment not to continue all the way to SdeC. However, some weeks later I was again in the albergue in Zamora, but on this occasion it was on the first night of a nineteen day walk (via Astorga) over Christmas and New Year which brought me to SdeC in the first week of January 2016. From o Cebreiro to SdeC the weather was appallingly wet and I rather felt sorry for the many young South Korean peregrinos I encountered and who had not bargained for such miserable European winter weather ! Despite everything it was an enjoyable start to 2016 and when I got to SdeC (and not withstanding the fact that I had split that entire Camino into two sections), I felt the satisfying "job done" feeling which I had set out to achieve when I first walked from Valencia some several weeks before. For me it was a brilliant Camino and may I say "Well done" to Lindsay53 and hope you enjoyed the Levante as much as I did......

 

[JLWV]

Thank you Lindsay for all your information.
As it is 'live' it is very interesting for our association in Valencia.
And the 'pilgrim flow' continues, this week we have seen at the association 4 french people, all seniors, a lady alone, a man alone (biker) and a couple, plus all those who does not visit us.
Buen camino to all.

 

[Lindsay53]

A quick note from Benavente. The last couple of days from Zamora have been wet and cool. topped off this morning leaving Granja de Mourela at 0800 in the dark, pouring rain and a thunderstorm. Flooded tracks and thick mud made the first few hours an interesting experience.
By midday however, the sun was breaking through and I stopped to dry out a bit. The last 8k to Benevente was on a rail trail and made for a very pleasant walk
The albergue is in the old railway station and I am the only one here. It is actually a wee bit creepy, this place, reminiscient of the set of a teen horror movie, but good faciliies.
Had a good night last night in the bar in Granja de Mourela. 5 other pilgrims. We had to decide whether to leave the bar and dash through the pouring rain back to the albergue or stay and have another beer.....Stayed for dinner and a few more beers and tucked up in bed by 2130.
They have all followed the Sanabres, while I have headed north. Tenuous plans to meet in SDC or at the Sanabres/Invierno junction...we will see.

 

[Lindsay53]

Hola from Astorga. An easy 25k from La Baneza Sunshine and a slight cool breeze made for an enjoyable walk. I also met my first native English speaking pilgrim on the outskirts of town! An American walking the VDLP down to Granja and then the Sanabres to SDC.
On arrival I saw more pilgrims in the first 20 minutes than I have in the last nearly 6 weeks.
Only issue is a niggling shin splint problem in my right leg that has developed in the past few days. Today I have bought new insoles which with other measures will hopefully keep it under control.
So now onto the Frances/Invierno for the home stretch. Finisterre is definitely out due to time constraints.

 

[peregrina2000]

Only issue is a niggling shin splint problem in my right leg that has developed in the past few days.

You may already know this — STRETCH those muscles before it gets worse! Ice also might help. The minute I feel the tiniest hint of a shin splint, I start the classic stretches, 30 seconds at a pop, during the walk. Then, if I can remember it, ice at the end of the day, even if everything feels fine. I had this happen just last week when I had a few days to walk some stages from Lisbon. The first day from Lisbon is almost all asphalt or boardwalk, and I was feeling it after about 20 km. Stretching did wonders.

 

[Lindsay53]

You may already know this — STRETCH those muscles before it gets worse! Ice also might help. The minute I feel the tiniest hint of a shin splint, I start the classic stretches, 30 seconds at a pop, during the walk. Then, if I can remember it, ice at the end of the day, even if everything feels fine. I had this happen just last week when I had a few days to walk some stages from Lisbon. The first day from Lisbon is almost all asphalt or boardwalk, and I was feeling it after about 20 km. Stretching did wonders.

Yes, I have some ice and even as I write this I'm stretching. I did ignore it initially in the foolish hope it would go away...I know better but...

 

[Lindsay53]

Hola from Puente de Domingo Flores. Been an interesting few days since my last post from Astorga.
Two days on the Camino Frances (including the Cruz de Ferro descent) and after a night in the big albergue in Ponferrada I set out yesterday on the road less travelled, the Camino Invierno.
A great walk on a cool sunny day brought me to Borennes, via picture postcard villages and lovely mountain and forest scenery. Stayed at casa rural Borrenes las Medulas. where the host Raimund, explained there was no shop or bar in the village but I could help myself to food and drink from the fridge. Very cheap and the breakfast stuff was free.
Set out late, after 0800 as I had a short day planned, only 18k to Puente Domingo de Flores. On leaving town this morning I met a Brazilian pilgrim who was heading to Sobradelo. Only other I have met since watching the Frances horde head off in a different direction as I left Ponferrada.
Another nice walk, even if a smidge hilly. Only issues were a navigational error that took me one kilometre up a steep hill to look at a Roman gold mine instead of staying on the road and calling Casa Rosa to find that the albergue is shut permanently. However Hostal la Torre has good, if basic, facilities for a pilgrims rate of 22 euros.
Still have to plan my next stages, tomorrow is still a mystery!

 

[milkybar93]

Hola from Puente de Domingo Flores. Been an interesting few days since my last post from Astorga.
Two days on the Camino Frances (including the Cruz de Ferro descent) and after a night in the big albergue in Ponferrada I set out yesterday on the road less travelled, the Camino Invierno.
A great walk on a cool sunny day brought me to Borennes, via picture postcard villages and lovely mountain and forest scenery. Stayed at casa rural Borrenes las Medulas. where the host Raimund, explained there was no shop or bar in the village but I could help myself to food and drink from the fridge. Very cheap and the breakfast stuff was free.
Set out late, after 0800 as I had a short day planned, only 18k to Puente Domingo de Flores. On leaving town this morning I met a Brazilian pilgrim who was heading to Sobradelo. Only other I have met since watching the Frances horde head off in a different direction as I left Ponferrada.
Another nice walk, even if a smidge hilly. Only issues were a navigational error that took me one kilometre up a steep hill to look at a Roman gold mine instead of staying on the road and calling Casa Rosa to find that the albergue is shut permanently. However Hostal la Torre has good, if basic, facilities for a pilgrims rate of 22 euros.
Still have to plan my next stages, tomorrow is still a mystery!

I remember that feeling of relief to be rid of the masses when I turned right one time in Leon onto the San Salvador, heading to Oviedo. I only met a few peregrinos between Leon and Oviedo so no more racing for a bed and I just loved the quietude.....

 

[Lindsay53]

Coming to you from the excellent municipal albergue in A Pobra Do Brollon as the rain and sun vie for supremacy outside. But again. I am ahead of myself.

Left Puente de Domingo Flores early in the morning as the bar downstairs was heaving with what seemed to be crowds of itinerant workers having breakfast. Mini buses coming and going every few minutes. Headed off into the dark and fog and crossed the bridge into Galicia.
The way was up and down on forest tracks until O Barco, when it levelled out and followed the road into Villamartin de Valdeorras. Rain on and off all day.
I had tried ringing the albergue earlier with no success, so on arrival I was resigned to another key hunt around the town, but Ivan the hospi was there by chance. He told me he had been having phone problems. Great albergue and all to myself.
Next day was a long 33k over hill and dale to Quiroga. Not made any easier by the continuous rain and nowhere to get food and drink. One of the hardest days I have had on any camino I think.
Arrived at the municipal albergue where I met 2 other pilgrims!
Woke this morning to more rain however it stopped just as I was setting out. Cool and fairly sunny most of the day, made the almost continuous steep up and down a bit easier. Rain started again about an.hour out from todays finish A Pobra do Ballon.
I am very much over the rain...

 

[peregrina2000]

Arrived at the municipal albergue where I met 2 other pilgrims!

If my calculations are right, @El Cascayal is very close. I’m pretty sure she’s in Monforte today.

 

[Lindsay53]

Quick message on how the Camino provided. Arrived in Monforte de Lemos today after a short walk from A Pobra. After unpacking at the excellent Albergue Lemavo I realised I had left my torch behind...bugger However shortly after Luciano from Brazil showed up with it. I owe him a beer later

 

[Lindsay53]

Hola from Lucenza. A good, if rainy day from Monforte de Lemos to Diomondi yeaterday. I had intended going all the way to Chantada but the weather put me off so I stocked up on supplies and stayed at the excellent Xunta albergue in Diomundi. A unique place attatched to the 12th century church. 36 beds on 2 levels and very modern but incorporating the architecture of the ruins of the old priests quarters. Only hassle is no tienda or bar in the village so you must come prepared.
I did wonder why such a large new albergue was in such a remote location. but after this mornings descent to the Rio Mino and the long, steep climb up the other side I can see that facing that after a long day from Monforte would be very ordinary. Best to tackle it fresh on a new day and the albergue is strategically located. Not much use yet though. The hospitalera said about 3 pilgrims a week, maybe.
Stopped for a break in Chantara then the final 7k to Hotel Vilaseco just outside Lucenza. Nice albergue in the attic of the hotel. Now to wait for the dining room to open.
Also, passed the 100k mark!

 

[Lindsay53]

Hola from A Laxe. Currently in restaurant Maria Jose with a beer and a bocodillo after todays walk from Rodiero.
The Camino Invierno is finished. A couple of days on the Sanabres to SDC and done.
While the Invierno had spectacular scenery and was a great walk the constant rain has coloured my perception a bit I think. The first day and today have been the only ones where I was not soaked on arrival at my days destination.
Still, a little suffering is good for a pilgrim.
Speaking of which, on arrival yesterday at the excellent albergue Carpinteiras, we saw a row of nice clean backpacks and a couple of suitcases in the reception area...the tourigrinos were coming! Luciano from Brazil and I made sure we were showered and our washing done before the hordes descended! Actually they were nice people and as we often say here, you walk your own camino.

 

[VNwalking]

on arrival yesterday at the excellent albergue Carpinteiras, we saw a row of nice clean backpacks and a couple of suitcases in the reception area...the tourigrinos were coming

Uh-oh. Crowds may be next. Were they behind you on the Invierno or coming from Ourense?

 

[OzAnnie]

yesterday at the excellent albergue Carpinteiras, we saw a row of nice clean backpacks and a couple of suitcases in the reception area

Uh-oh. Crowds may be next. Were they behind you on the Invierno or coming from Ourense?

Albergue Carpinteiras is in Rodeiro / still on the Invierno ..

 

[VNwalking]

Albergue Carpinteiras is in Rodeiro / still on the Invierno ..

Oh, right. Of course. Thanks Annie.

 

[Lindsay53]

Uh-oh. Crowds may be next. Were they behind you on the Invierno or coming from Ourense?

I had only seen three others until this point. Don't know where they came from, but if they were behind me they were moving very fast.

 

[Lindsay53]

Can you guess where I am? 54 days and approximately 1350 kilometres and Lindsays Levante is done. Left Ponte Ulla this morning and had an excellent walk into town, the rain held off until about 45 minutes out, then down it came...Got to the Praza, took a photo then looked for my hostal. Turns out it's just across the road from Casa Ivar, so I dropped in for a stamp. I aplogise again Ivar for dripping all over your floor. Been a few ups and downs, both literally and figuratively, and I could not have done this without the encouragement of my family, people on this forum and especially my two Camino friends from the Plata last year, who have been amazing.
Well, thats it. Couple of days here then home. It has been great.

 

[milkybar93]

Can you guess where I am? 54 days and approximately 1350 kilometres and Lindsays Levante is done. Left Ponte Ulla this morning and had an excellent walk into town, the rain held off until about 45 minutes out, then down it came...Got to the Praza, took a photo then looked for my hostal. Turns out it's just across the road from Casa Ivar, so I dropped in for a stamp. I aplogise again Ivar for dripping all over your floor. Been a few ups and downs, both literally and figuratively, and I could not have done this without the encouragement of my family, people on this forum and especially my two Camino friends from the Plata last year, who have been amazing.
Well, thats it. Couple of days here then home. It has been great.
View attachment 179646

Can you guess where I am? 54 days and approximately 1350 kilometres and Lindsays Levante is done. Left Ponte Ulla this morning and had an excellent walk into town, the rain held off until about 45 minutes out, then down it came...Got to the Praza, took a photo then looked for my hostal. Turns out it's just across the road from Casa Ivar, so I dropped in for a stamp. I aplogise again Ivar for dripping all over your floor. Been a few ups and downs, both literally and figuratively, and I could not have done this without the encouragement of my family, people on this forum and especially my two Camino friends from the Plata last year, who have been amazing.
Well, thats it. Couple of days here then home. It has been great.
View attachment 179646

Well done Lindsay53 ! Time to put the feet up ! A marvellous camino well related by you on here. I enjoyed following you, thanks. Safe home.

 

[VNwalking]

Well done, Lindsay. Enjoy the well-deserved celebratory days in Santiago!

 

[JLWV]

Thank you Lindsay for all your fine information.
All the best for you.