LIVE from the Camino Chrissy on the Camino Invierno

[Camino Chrissy]

My son and I arrived in Ponferrada yesterday and settled into our hotel room. We only had one afternoon and evening here as we'd been twice before and had already toured the well preserved castle.
We headed out to pick up groceries to take with us as our guidebook mentioned there was nowhere to eat on the way to, nor in in, the village of Villavieja, where we would be spending the night at the albergue.

The morning .leaving Ponferrada was drizzly on and off, but the temp was comfortable with no wind and it was dry by noon. We walked through several quaint villages with cute dogs, vineyards with grapes ready to be harvested, wide woodland paths, and eventually saw the first hints of the mining areas and views of the Cornatel castle high above.
The only animal we saw all day was a fox darting across the path into the woods, but we did have annoying flies bothering us for about an hour, which made me wish for a breeze to chase them away.

There were ten of us staying at the albergue that has sixteen beds. All were retirees from the Netherlands except for one younger gal from Germany. It is a newer, lovely property and reservations can be made. It has a full kitchen with everything needed for cooking. The fee is €10 and includes clean cotton sheets and new blankets.
The wifi here is very slow, so will send a variety of pictures later.

 

[t2andreo]

I SOOOO wish I was there. Of course, my responsibilities here still preclude that. But I am with you in spirit.

Buen Camino.

 

[Keyser]

Be sure to call to the Pilgrims Office in Monteforte and say hello to Fran. He is very helpful and loves to meet pilgrims.

 

[AnneMarie1]

Buen camino! I did that route last year -- in June there were cherries leaving Ponferrada. Villavieja has to be one of the best albergues anywhere! When I was there, there were only two of us. Anneke from the Netherlands was there when I arrived, and she was quite glad to know that yes, I had food with me, because she hadn't heard about the need to bring any. We're still in regular touch!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 1-
Here are random pictures from my first day leaving Ponferrada to Villavieja. We had some drizzle on and off all day, but I always find things to photograph that has some interest to me.




End of day we neared the beginnings of the mining era.

 

[Simperegrina]

Ah, memories from March this year…

Buen Camino!

 

[jungleboy]

There were ten of us staying at the albergue that has sixteen beds. All were retirees from the Netherlands except for one younger gal from Germany.

Ten seems crazy to me but I guess most were in a group. We thought we were going to be alone at Villavieja until a Dutch woman came late in the afternoon to make it three of us. Great albergue! Wendy enjoyed putting her feet up (literally) after the day's walk:

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 2-
Today was a day of only about 17km, but it seemed plenty. It was another morning of drizzle, but thankfully on and off. We climbed up to the Cornatel castle after leaving the albergue, knowing it was closed, but we still had a few good views.
Leaving there we saw a Mojone pointing to the road to Borrenes, which was downhill so I started doing a bit of zigzagging to spare my knees. Finally we turned left at the town and continued on another little used road for over 7.5km, with both ups and downs continuously. Thankfully it was not a hot day, but it still wore me out. On and off throughout the day we saw huge chestnut trees, and almonds, walnuts and figs all over the ground.
Finally when we neared he village of Orellan, we stopped for our picnic lunch of seeded bread with Manchengo cheese and dark chocolate with nuts at a small church with a cemetery and a bell tower climb. I removed my backpack and started up the metal stairs until they started swaying, so decided to turn around before reaching the top as I can be a bit of a chicken.
Another 3+ km brought us to the amazing Orellan Mirador, the highlight of this day! We stayed a half hour gazing, taking it all in and felt quite lucky as no drizzle and a bit brighter sky for our time there made the bright orange "pop" in spite of no sunshine. The tour unfortunately as not open while we were there. When we left we took an interesting trail in the woods downhill to Casa Agoda in the village of Las Medulas, which is a wonderful place and our room had a private balcony overlooking some great views.

 

[VNwalking]

Ohhhhh. Wonderful.
Buen camino to you both!

(Wait, Chris, didn't you just do the Sanabrés? Lucky you. Really looking forward to your photos.)

Edited to add: look at those chestnuts! You wouldn't want to be under one of those trees in a windstorm right now.
And...ten at Villavieja??

 

[Pilgrim Patricia]

Thank you so much for your narrative and the fantastic photos! I looked up Las Medulas and found this article which talks a bit about gold mining during the Roman Empire: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Las_Médulas

 

[JennyH94]

Have a wonderful camino Chrissy!

Best, best wishes to you and your son -

Jenny xx

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Ohhhhh. Wonderful.
Buen camino to you both!

(Wait, Chris, didn't you just do the Sanabrés? Lucky you. Really looking forward to your photos.)

Edited to add: look at those chestnuts! You wouldn't want to be under one of those trees in a windstorm right now.
And...ten at Villavieja??

Those chestnut trees are absolutely amazing with their humongous twisted ancient trunks, but still producing shiny leaves with beautiful chestnuts attached.

 

[bestfootforward]

Top pics! Beautiful countryside and rain always adds another, I think very aesthetic dimension

 

[Elle Bieling]

Looks lovely! Buen Camino!

 

[t2andreo]

Day 1-
Here are random pictures from my first day leaving Ponferrada to Villavieja. We had some drizzle on and off all day, but I always find things to photograph that has some interest to me.
View attachment 178056View attachment 178057View attachment 178058
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End of day we neared the beginnings of the mining era.
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It is interesting to point out that, before arriving in Galicia, much of the stone work (roofs, paving, walls, decorative stone work, Camino distance markers - mojones, etc.) is SLATE, as that is the dominant type of stone quarried in the east.

Once you enter Galicia, the stone work changes to granite - the most prevalent stone quarried in Galicia.

Just a note of interest.

Tom

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 3-
Today we walked from Las Medulas to Sobradelo at about 20km. We woke up to black skies at 6:00am this morning with high winds and rain. I had my ear buds in so had heard nothing, but we found out there was a terrible storm last night that took out the power of the whole village. We used our phone flashlights to get dressed and we left at 8:30 in rain and wind that lasted over two hours.

However, It was a great walk today. The sun came out by noon and the temperature was perfect as I peeled off layers. There were beautiful mountain views with a couple of villages nestled in the distance.The trail was wide and mostly made of pulverized tiny pea gravel, so our shoes never got muddy. The storm left huge amounts of figs, almonds, walnuts and chestnuts scattered over sections of the path for miles.

I have a "thing" for rocks and the bluestone and colorful shale were spectacular to me as it was everywhere. In fact, as @t2andreo mentioned, the mojones were made of the bluestone; a first for me to see in all of my Caminos.

The only animal we saw today was one lone deer down below in a valley. The trail followed the Sil river the last half of the way, usually above, and our B&B is right on the riverbank and located at the ancient bridge with a beautiful view from our room in Sobradelo.


Bluestone mojone.


Wall art along the way.



Sobradelo.

 

[bestfootforward]

Beautiful scenes from along the way!

 

[ArleneLaskey]

Wonderful journey, thanks for sharing!

 

[MARSKA]

Day 3-
Today we walked from Las Medulas to Sobradelo at about 20km. We woke up to black skies at 6:00am this morning with high winds and rain. I had my ear buds in so had heard nothing, but we found out there was a terrible storm last night that took out the power of the whole village. We used our phone flashlights to get dressed and we left at 8:30 in rain and wind that lasted over two hours.

However, It was a great walk today. The sun came out by noon and the temperature was perfect as I peeled off layers. There were beautiful mountain views with a couple of villages nestled in the distance.The trail was wide and mostly made of pulverized tiny pea gravel, so our shoes never got muddy. The storm left huge amounts of figs, almonds, walnuts and chestnuts scattered over sections of the path for miles.

I have a "thing" for rocks and the bluestone and colorful shale were spectacular to me as it was everywhere. In fact, as @t2andreo mentioned, the mojones were made of the bluestone; a first for me to see in all of my Caminos.

The only animal we saw today was one lone deer down below in a valley. The trail followed the Sil river the last half of the way, usually above, and our B&B is right on the riverbank and located at the ancient bridge with a beautiful view from our room in Sobradelo.
View attachment 178119View attachment 178120

Bluestone mojone.
View attachment 178121

Wall art along the way.
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Sobradelo.
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View attachment 178128

Wonderful! I envy you!

 

[chinacat]

Buen camino(s), Chrissy!

Love your descriptions and the great photographs … especially the trees
And those quirky things which always catch your eye

 

[VNwalking]

And those quirky things which always catch your eye

Plenty of quirk ahead. Just wait.

The storm left huge amounts of figs, almonds, walnuts and chestnuts scattered over sections of the path for miles.

Wow a moveable feast!

our B&B is right on the riverbank and located at the ancient bridge with a beautiful view from our room in Sobradelo.

Oh, what a relief to know. I saw Sobradeo in the first line of yout post and was afraid you were stuck at Bar Mar's grubby place. Good - somewhere much better by the sound of it. And what a view!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Plenty of quirk ahead. Just wait.


Wow a moveable feast!


Oh, what a relief to know. I saw Sobradeo in the first line of yout post and was afraid you were stuck at Bar Mar's grubby place. Good - somewhere much better by the sound of it. And what a view!

I'll look forward to more quirk!

Clever play on words..."A Moveable Feast". Yep, those nuts were moving and rolling around.

We tried a couple of times to get a hold of Bar Mar, but they never replied. Then we saw repeated bad reviews on Gronze, so were glad to give it a miss. We booked what seemed to be the only other option in town. It is one of the finest posh places we have ever stayed at on the Camino and the most expensive we've ever paid using Booking.com.

 

[VNwalking]

Believe me...a very good choice, in spite of the cost!

 

[Robo]

I'll look forward to more quirk!

Clever play on words..."A Moveable Feast". Yep, those nuts were moving and rolling around.

We tried a couple of times to get a hold of Bar Mar, but they never replied. Then we saw repeated bad reviews on Gronze, so were glad to give it a miss. We booked what seemed to be the only other option in town. It is one of the finest posh places we have ever stayed at on the Camino and the most expensive we've ever paid using Booking.com.

I found Bar Mar hard to track down last year.
I made a booking, but when I got there the place was all closed up (the bar)
The rooms are all around the corner in a block of flats.
I eventually got the guy on the phone who sent the cleaner over with a key.

It was 'OK'.....

 

[VNwalking]

I went looking for photos of the place but never took any. Besides being under construction, it reminded me of some of the dodgy places I've stayed at in India.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 4-
Today was the shortest day I have walked on any Camino. After a great leisurely breakfast that included omelets, we took our time packing up and finally left Sobradelo late morning to walk the 10km we had planned ahead to A Barco. We had a bit of intermittent drizzle, so our umbrellas were up and down a few times, but we had plenty of sunshine, too.

The path followed along the Sil river, with vineyards and pine forests, and mountains on the other side of the river. I happened to think that I've not seen any eucalyptus forests so far. Often we've seen obvious signs of boars rooting around on the sides of these paths. They dig deep for "something", but we don't see them.
I did not take many pictures today, but here are a few.

Sobradelo on our way out.

 

[jungleboy]

Are you doing another short day tomorrow directly to A Rua or are you taking the @peregrina2000 waterfall detour route?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Nick, we are still in our room packing up. I read your very interesting report last night about today and will definitely start out with crossing the river and going up, but haven't decided yet on whether to continue following your recommendation into A Rua after we cross back over the river later yet.

 

[Flog]

Please don't be so quick to condemn Bar Mar. Sure, it's a bit rough and ready and isn't gonna win any hygene awards, but Manuel is a good guy and does his best to facilitate and oblige everyone. He also provides a pack forwarding service along the invierno for those unable or too lazy to carry their own.

@Camino Chrissy, I'm glad you're enjoying the invierno, it's a beautiful path, especially at this time of year, hopefully the weather remains kind to you. I'm just a few days ahead of you, but on the Sanabrês..

 

[Hom4]

Chrissy, I stayed at the same posh b&b in Sobradelo but only because it was my birthday. But before I checked in, I stopped at Bar Mar to say hi to Manuel since I saw him a day earlier in Borrones picking up mochilas for transport in his little car with business decal on the doors. I said hi to him and told him he was mentioned in my guide book by name. Anyway, he remembered me because I was wearing the same camino clothes...ha, ha

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Chrissy, I stayed at the same posh b&b in Sobradelo but only because it was my birthday.

I loved staying there; it was absolutely outstanding. We had sea bass with roasted vegetables for dinner, appetizers, and dessert. All was lovely.

 

[Hom4]

Let's not forget the beautiful wax stamp affixed to the eucalyptus leaves. The next morning...back to reality..ha, ha.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Let's not forget the beautiful wax stamp affixed to the eucalyptus leaves. The next morning...back to reality..ha, ha.

Yes, gorgeous! It was my very first wax stamp in all my years walking Caminos.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 5-
We left our hotel and crossed the old metal pedestrian bridge to the opposite side of the Sil river. It was quite chilly, overcast and foggy on the mountainside. We started on the park naturale all the way to the interesting old castle. We decided after all to forego heading up higher on the mountain where @jungleboy and @peregrina2000 had enjoyed. We missed the trail turnoff so kept on the picturesque little road (no cars) and were pleasantly surprised at how nice it was. It meandered around and had some ascents providing nice views of the river below. I loved it as an alternative to the main Camino, but without the steep trail/climbs on a not so great morning. I consider what we walked to be the perfect "inbetween" route; a far better option for the less adventurous among us without walking near the industrial sections on the main Camino path out of O Barco.

The sun finally came out and stayed for the afternoon and when we finally arrived at the dam, we decided to take @jungleboy's advice and chose the beautiful alternate, which is a safer route. It has a short short ascent that had great views of the river below and a walk through the pine forest. We did not head back down to continue as the showed, but stayed high as our Casa Rural was located outside of town, but not far away.

We met an older couple from England, Bill and Madge, at the casa and spent time with them sharing wine at a table on the property grounds. The owner brought us a plate of perfect figs to share, which were a nice addition to the pasta salads we'd picked up in town. We found out this couple stayed at the same hotel the night before and are staying at the same place tomorrow night, too.
I think we walked bout 13k today.




Nature's stained glass windows.

 

[jungleboy]

By the time we arrived at the dam it was sunny and we took Nick's advice to take the safer, longer route into A Rua. It was everything he said it was and we were so glad we went that way.

Great, so glad it worked out for you! Early on tomorrow there is some quirky stuff that I think you're going to love (will say no more), and great views if you get a clear day.

I'm not sure how far you're going tomorrow but there a couple of things to note. Firstly, the tour guide at the church in Montefurado who will come out of nowhere and just start guiding without asking you if you want the tour or if you speak Spanish! And secondly, in Bendilló, the house of Charlie and (English-speaking) Ana, who, if home, will welcome you inside and have food and drinks to sell if you'd like a rest and a chat.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Nick, thanks for the tips. I will try to visit the church in Montefurado as so few are open, but tomorrow is Sunday so I should be in luck. Maybe the tour guide will even appear like magic!
I'll try to keep my eyes open, too, for Charlie and Ana's place in Bendillo.

 

[VNwalking]

Yup, quirk alert. Good stuff coming up!

Montefurado

And maybe you'll get to meet Sr. Casimiro.

 

[El Cascayal]

was afraid you were stuck at Bar Mar's grubby place.

we saw repeated bad reviews on Gronze,

Please don't be so quick to condemn Bar Mar. Sure, it's a bit rough and ready and isn't gonna win any hygene awards, but Manuel is a good guy and does his best to facilitate and oblige everyone.

Hi guys, I’m a little late getting to this thread and I would like to put in a very good word for Manuel Mar at Sobradelo. He is truly kind and generous and repeatedly goes out of his way to accommodate Peregrinos. His is not a luxury hotel, it is like staying at your cousin’s. Very clean, single beds in 2 large dorm rooms. Good heating in winter, copious hot water, included in the price they will wash, dry and fold your clothes and breakfast. He and his staff are lovely people and post pandemic he is struggling.
He is easily reached via WhatsApp. I am staying there in October, hooray for the Invierno and all it’s characters: locals, hospis, and Peregrinos. Will report back. Buen Camino Chrissy & company!

 

[VNwalking]

Very clean

it is like staying at your cousin’s

Not my experience.
But clearly things go up and down there. Hardly surprising - I do think he's likely overextended, with the bar, the hostel, and all the bag transport. There are only so many hours in a day.

 

[Flog]

Not my experience.
But clearly things go up and down there. Hardly surprising - I do think he's likely overextended, with the bar, the hostel, and all the bag transport. There are only so many hours in a day.

The place isn't great, being honest, it's basic and not somewhere you'd go for a honeymoon or anything.. but Manuel's very obliging and helpful, and goes out of his way for you, and he provides a good service and good value for pilgrims. I don't know how he manages to make anything with his baggage forwarding.

If you want your basic needs met, your clothes washed and your dinner and breakfast put in front of you, support him. If you want to be pampered in more luxurious surroundings, and you have loads of money, get yourself up to the Parador in Monforte de Lemos..

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 6-
Today we walked 22km from the far side of A Rua to Soldon. I found this day rather difficult as it had so many ups and downs. A few were quite lengthy and others were steep on the up and the down. The last third had a variety of many rocks to navigate. I was very tired by the end of the day. It took us a full 8 hours because I am a slow walker.

Much of the joy today was taking in the beautiful mountain views as we were mostly walking high up and the sun shining. And, oh yes, the "quirky" made its appearance and became a real wow factor in the village of Alvaredos, where the quirky cutouts were everywhere. There was a little spot to self-stamp your credential. There was a basket of fruit, a coffeepot and the cutest donation box I'd ever seen.

@jungleboy had mentioned the church at Montefurado and we really lucked out! We arrived in town at Noonish and on our way up to the church their bells rand loudly for several minutes as it was Sunday. When we stepped into the little plaza, there were a few young people in costume waiting to play drums and bagpipes. A woman came over to us and ushered us into the now empty church for the little tour and to stamp my credential for a small donation. It is a lovely small church, btw. After the tour we stepped out and the music started and locals began trailing in and dancing.
When we arrived at Bendillo, there was no one around in the village to ask about Charlie and Ana, so we continued on our way, which was down, up, down, up, down slog the remainder of the way to Soldon. I was super happy when we finally arrived. BTW, our apartment has a kitchen, but we have no food to cook. We've been living on supplies we bought yesterday in A Rua. The coffeeshops were all closed this morning (Sunday), and there was nowhere else to get any food all day and evening. Anyone planning this route should take note of this.
I was sooo happy to finally take a hot shower and soothe my tired body.




Ancient laundry station

 

[trecile]

Then we saw repeated bad reviews on Gronze, so were glad to give it a miss.

I didn't stay in Sobradelo, but the vast majority of reviews on Groze are positive.

Alojamiento Bar Mar - Sobradelo | Pensión | Gronze.com

Información del Pensión Alojamiento Bar Mar, en Sobradelo: precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I didn't stay in Sobradelo, but the vast majority of reviews on Groze are positive.

View attachment 178269

Alojamiento Bar Mar - Sobradelo | Pensión | Gronze.com

Información del Pensión Alojamiento Bar Mar, en Sobradelo: precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

We saw some bad reviews on Gronze, but were going to stay there anyway, but after a few attempts to contact him and no replies, we gave up. Apparently a few forum members here did not like their experiences at Bar Mar.
No big deal in the end as I loved where we stayed.

 

[VNwalking]

down, up, down, up

I loved this day, but yeah, wow...lots of little ups and downs. Cumulatively they're really tiring. Love your photos, Chris! You really lucked clout in Montefurado.

. If you want to be pampered in more luxurious surroundings,

I'm definitely not a pampered kinda person. It was...not just basic, but grubby. But that was 5 years ago when clearly renovations were happening.

 

[Hannah Peregrina]

Just want to add a quick note about Bar Mar - I just stayed there a couple weeks ago, and I was even warned about it and Manuel the host by someone in Puente. The consensus among we pilgrims staying the night was that the building that houses the albergue is indeed really seedy and gave us pause when we arrived, but that once inside the rooms themselves are clean and the bathroom adequate. 18 euros gets you a bed (one of 12 in 3 rooms), laundry done and a basic breakfast. Manuel himself is pleasant enough. Overall, Bar Mar gets the job done for an overnight, and the food Manuel prepared for a couple pilgrims at dinner - big salad and a plate of tortilla with some Padron peppers - was abundant and looked just fine! Chrissy, thanks so much for posting about your Camino!!

 

[caminka]

Lovely posts, Chrissy, thank you!
I am not as enamored with camino invierno as many from this forum, but your beautiful photos are certainly making me at least consider walking it again if my list ever gets checked out.

 

[Kirkie]

Day 6-
Today we walked 22km from the far side of A Rua to Soldon. I found this day rather difficult as it had so many ups and downs. A few were quite lengthy and others were steep on the up and the down. The last third had a variety of many rocks to navigate. I was very tired by the end of the day. It took us a full 8 hours because I am a slow walker.

Much of the joy today was taking in the beautiful mountain views as we were mostly walking high up and the sun shining. And, oh yes, the "quirky" made its appearance and became a real wow factor in the village of Alvaredos, where the quirky cutouts were everywhere. There was a little spot to self-stamp your credential. There was a basket of fruit, a coffeepot and the cutest donation box I'd ever seen.

@jungleboy had mentioned the church at Montefurado and we really lucked out! We arrived in town at Noonish and on our way up to the church their bells rand loudly for several minutes as it was Sunday. When we stepped into the little plaza, there were a few young people in costume waiting to play drums and bagpipes. A woman came over to us and ushered us into the now empty church for the little tour and to stamp my credential for a small donation. It is a lovely small church, btw. After the tour we stepped out and the music started and locals began trailing in and dancing.
When we arrived at Bendillo, there was no one around in the village to ask about Charlie and Ana, so we continued on our way, which was down, up, down, up, down slog the remainder of the way to Soldon. I was super happy when we finally arrived. BTW, our apartment has a kitchen, but we have no food to cook. We've been living on supplies we bought yesterday in A Rua. The coffeeshops were all closed this morning (Sunday), and there was nowhere else to get any food all day and evening. Anyone planning this route should take note of this.
I was sooo happy to finally take a hot shower and soothe my tired body.
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Ancient laundry station
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After the Ingles in 2019, we drove in and out and also walked some parts of the terrain you are covering, on the way via Ribeira Sacra to Playa de las Catedrales. The hillside vineyards were amazing, and some churches in incredible spots. It is surely beautiful, but am I glad I did not have to walk every step of all the ups and owns! Fair play to you and your ever attentive son!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 7-
Today was a very short day (under 10 km) as we planned everything before leaving home and sometimes stages were not perfect between lodging choices on the Invierno in order to break up some of the longest stages. It was a wonderful day with lovely paths and views of vineyards. I saw my first few eucalyptus trees today; just a few, no forests of them.

We saw no pilgrims today, and sauntered along, taking our time. We walked up to the small castle on the hill and poked around at what was left of it, and ate our lunch there with nice views below of the outskirts of Quiroga; our destination. When we arrived, we were able to check in early at Hostal Quiper. We have a great inexpensive twin room with large windows overlooking a merging of three local streets. It looks like a new renovation and everything including the bathroom is top notch.
Tomorrow we have a long day of 23 km, and a #3 in Gronze dfficulty, so this semi-rest day is appreciated. We head out for a hopefully proper dinner meal at 8:00pm.

Today's quirky.




Castle views.

 

[jungleboy]

Look out for the huge pilgrim mural on the main street of Quiroga!

Spoiler: Mural

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Saw it! It only allows me ten photos. Nick, I don't know how you can choose only about three favorites a day when you post on your Caminos.

 

[chinacat]

I loved this day, but yeah, wow...lots of little ups and downs. Cumulatively they're really tiring. Love your photos, Chris! You really lucked clout in Montefurado.


I'm definitely not a pampered kinda person. It was...not just basic, but grubby. But that was 5 years ago when clearly renovations were happening.

Is it really 5 years since ‘Chicken Little’ walked the Invierno???

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Ahhh, Wonder Woman @Camino Chrissy ...as always love your ever positive spirit & the way you undertake your journeys; uplifting & inspiring.
Terrific photos are a bonus.
Long may you wander!

 

[VNwalking]

Is it really 5 years since ‘Chicken Little’ walked the Invierno???

Hard to believe, isn't it?

 

[chinacat]

@Camino Chrissy

The mural of the woman, the child and the duck is wonderful!!
Thank you!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Camino Chrissy

The mural of the woman, the child and the duck is wonderful!!
Thank you!

Yes, it's more like a lovely painting on a canvas. Too bad the windows got in the way.

 

[chinacat]

Have a great day!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 8-
Today was a true Gronze stage of 23km, walking from Quiroga to Brollon. It is considered to be a beautiful stage and it was! All the ups and downs in the mountains were gradual, so no huffing and puffing uphill for me even though it was rated a 3 in difficulty.
We saw two taxis go by after an hour of walking and eventually a group of 7 E-bicyclists, and 3 pilgrims passed by us as we'd stopped to eat our picnic lunch.

The only negative was that it rained most of the day although there were short intervals of no rain, but also no sunshine. The good news was that it was not a cold day, so I wore my wicking shorts and t-shirt and used my new ultra-lite umbrella as there was no wind, so decided not to put on my raincoat.

As usual, I took too many pictures...under my umbrella. Giant old twisted trunk chestnut trees and boar diggings were along the side of the path much of the time.
I didn't get tired out today, possibly because I had a cafe con leche grande, fresh squeezed orange juice and a croissant for breakfast.
My pictures lack vibrant colors due to the rain.

 

[chinacat]

The colours go with the weather, Chrissy


Love the tree trunks … wonderful photograph!

 

[bestfootforward]

Yes, they're gorgeous. The magic continues!

 

[VNwalking]

Are there any lingering signs of the fires (from a few years ago) before Barxa de Lor?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Are there any lingering signs of the fires (from a few years ago) before Barxa de Lor?

There were just a very few noticeable signs of fires, and what I did see didn't seem to interfere with the beauty. Possibly many trees were cut down and new growth has been forming.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 9-
This thankfully was not a long day, as it rained continually from 9:00am when we left Brollon to our arrival in Monforte de Lemos at about 1:30. We put on our rain jackets before we left and never closed our umbrellas the whole way. Thankfully they are extremely lightweight, and there was no problem since no wind to contend with.

The path was not difficult and the temperature good, so it was still a pretty good day overall. I always find a few things of interest to take some pictures.

We are in a nice apartment for two days and we had dinner a half block away at Mulligan's, an Irish pub just a half block away, then picked up some groceries for tomorrow. I hope the weather improves as we would like to do some sightseeing here before we leave.







Fall is in the air.

 

[Flog]

I hope the weather improves as we would like to do some sightseeing here before we leave.

The views over the town and surrounding countryside from the castelo are well worth the short climb.

Great photos, they capture the essence of it well..

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Btw, I googled about boars last night as we've seen plenty of rooting around by them in freshly turned soil each day and I knew little about them. They are now added to my phobia of bears.

I also looked up chestnut trees. In Spain, they are often extremely old, and can be 200-800 years old! Their twisted trunks are humongous in the forests on the Invierno and amazing!

 

[Tincatinker]

They are now added to my phobia of bears.

Chrissy at this time of year your risk comes from the Boar hunters not the Boar. Get between a Sow and her litter in the Springtime and you have big trouble. In the Autumn they’re all too busy munching acorn and mushrooms and fat earthworms and grubs to be bothered about passing pilgrims. And anyway they’ll have heard you coming and gone discretely into cover way before you get close enough for a confrontation.

Just don’t nick any acorns

 

[Camino Chrissy]

at this time of year your risk comes from the Boar hunters not the Boar.

I read boar can run 25-30 mph! We did hear many gunshots today in the distance. I wondered if they were doing some target practice, or hunting those boars; apparently they were hunting. Glad I wasn't wearing camo!

 

[Tassie Kaz]

The colours go with the weather, Chrissy


Love the tree trunks … wonderful photograph!

Absolutely agree.
The tree trunk shot is very atmospheric!

 

[peregrina2000]

Get between a Sow and her litter in the Springtime and you have big trouble.

Just a couple of days ago, between Santarem Golegã, I saw a boar run across the track, and there were some little ones running behind her. Do they have more than one litter a year? Or do the babies just grow very slowly?

 

[Tincatinker]

Just a couple of days ago, between Santarem Golegã, I saw a boar run across the track, and there were some little ones running behind her. Do they have more than one litter a year? Or do the babies just grow very slowly?

Sounds like a second litter, or a very late litter from a first time mum. It happens. They’ll not likely make it through the winter

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 10-11
We have spent two nights in Monforte de Lemos and today had no rain and some sunshine at opportune times when heading up to the castle torre(tower) for our self tour. We lucked out and were the only visitors to its museum and heading up to the top floor taking us outside. I really enjoyed it and for only €1.50 each, it was great.

The Parador is located in the converted old monastery and commands the other imposing view from above the city. We ventured inside, as the cloisters were open to the public and houses the parador restaurant.

There were a few other nice things to see as we wandered around the tourist historical area with its nice shops, but the city below didn't seem to have a very good vibe.

Last night we ate at an Irish pub as it was close to our nice apartment, and I actually had a burger and some croquets. I've never had a burger on any Camino before.
Breakfast was a cafe con leche and a tostada with tomato, jamon and olive oil.
Our shared lunch was a plate of padron peppers, grilled chiperones, and grilled mushrooms which was a new thing for us to try...all good.
We made combo tuna/egg salad sandwiches for dinner and had a piece of chocolate w/almonds. I think I need to eat more fruit.


Parador.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Castle tower. (Continued)

 

[Flog]

I've never had a burger on any Camino before.

En serio? You missed the best/biggest burger in Spain a few days ago...

And btw, these were the 'medium' size, at about 8 inches across!

Edit:
Cafe Los Arcos,
Puente de Domingo Florez

 

[Takahiwai]

Thank you for posting your daily journal and photographs. They are bringing back happy memories of my own time on this camino, just after Semana Santa this year. Unfortunately, the friend who was accompanying me developed tendonitis, and although we somewhat dawdled along the route, by the time we reached Monforte de Lemos it was clear that it wasn't improving and we were not going to be able to make it to the end in the time that we had. Doubly unfortunately, upon returning to Myanmar, thieves fairly quickly relieved me of my phone and laptop, leaving me with no photographic souvenirs of my Invierno experience. Looking forward to seeing what awaits me when I have the time and money to return, so I will be eagerly following your posts. Buen camino!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Takahiwai, I was saddened to read of the unfortunate ending to your Invierno Camino this past spring. I am glad to hear you are enjoying the pictures I add to my posts and that they bring you good memories of your time in Spain.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 12
We took an early train from Monforte de Lemos to A Coruna Friday morning...so goodbye Invierno....it was a wonderful Camino!
We are doing two days of sightseeing before heading to Ferrol to walk the Camino Ingles to Santiago.
I'll be starting a new thread to continue this "patchwork" Camino.

Note from the mod - here is the link to Chrissy’s next adventure — on the Inglés.