I hope this is the final stretch!
What a day! I’m bone tired and had trouble staying awake writing this, so I hope I’m writing clearly…
La Faba to Triacastela, 17.1 miles,27.5 Km.
Last night, when having dinner at the only restaurant that I could find in La Faba whether they opened in the morning, and I was told yes, at 6:30 AM. They weren’t. Luckily I had some snacks with me so I didn’t start on a completely empty stomach.
It was still dark and my little headlamp wasn’t much help. When leaving town, the trail becomes very steep and rocky, and I felt uncomfortable with how little I could see. Fortunately several pilgrims started to trickle by, with much better lights, so I took advantage of the added visibility when they passed me by.
It was a very steep, rocky uphill but fortunately only a couple kilometers, and daybreak came, which helped me a lot feel more secure in my footing. The next town was Laguna de Castilla, only a couple kilometers away. I could hear the cowbells and smell the manure of the cows in the dairy barns. I also had a close encounter with a dog, but it turns out he was chasing a car, not me.
I had breakfast at Laguna de Castilla and resumed my walk. It was a cool, sunny morning and I kept climbing up the mountain, until I finally reached the stone marker that announced I was entering Galicia. The views were getting more spectacular until I reached O Cebreiro. Around this time, my stomach was acting up, so I didn’t get to enjoy it a whole lot, but I was able to care of my ailments.
There was a couple of tour buses and out came what has been called “turigrinos”. I wasn’t happy with such a big crowd so I left town. I stopped at the town of Liñares, which I mistook for Linares, the birthplace of a Spanish singer very popular back in the 60s and 70s, Raphael Martos. I stopped at a bar to use the bathroom, and struck up a conversation with the lady at the counter. She corrected me by pointing to the town of Linares in Jaén, not this town of Liñares in Galicia. We started to talk about Spain, and I mentioned that I’m a PR and used to be part of Spain, and to my surprise, she pulls out a PR flag given to her by a customer. It was a good moment, I wish I could have stayed longer. Her name is Sofia and she gave me permission to post her pic with the flag.
There were a couple of climbs, the second one was Alto de Poio, which was very steep. I tacked it by using a zig-zag approach. Looking back at the ground I’ve covered, I was insanely high, and eventually I got to the top, where I knew was a bar…but it was mobbed by teenagers, apparently on a school trip. I wound up going to the bar across the street, and ordered lunch, which was very generous. The bar was deserted other than a couple of older men talking in Galego (Galician), something I kept hearing all day.
It was getting late in the afternoon.i knew that the route will start going sharply downhill, but I still had to walk about 10 Km downhill, and no telling what kind of terrain I would find. It was also getting much warmer, and that has a draining effect. I even considered calling a Taxi, but I gave myself little breaks with each successive town I reached. The views continued to be spectacular and that helped take my mind off the tiredness and heat.
Eventually, I got to Triacastela. I showered, ate, and now ready to go to bed, but tomorrow will be shorter. I’ll be going to Sarria.
FB link for pics:
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/EmjMGtpKpYPoHs93/?mibextid=WC7FNe