LIVE from the Camino Héctor Walks His Way- Week 6

[HBS60]

I hope this is the final stretch!

What a day! I’m bone tired and had trouble staying awake writing this, so I hope I’m writing clearly…

La Faba to Triacastela, 17.1 miles,27.5 Km.

Last night, when having dinner at the only restaurant that I could find in La Faba whether they opened in the morning, and I was told yes, at 6:30 AM. They weren’t. Luckily I had some snacks with me so I didn’t start on a completely empty stomach.

It was still dark and my little headlamp wasn’t much help. When leaving town, the trail becomes very steep and rocky, and I felt uncomfortable with how little I could see. Fortunately several pilgrims started to trickle by, with much better lights, so I took advantage of the added visibility when they passed me by.

It was a very steep, rocky uphill but fortunately only a couple kilometers, and daybreak came, which helped me a lot feel more secure in my footing. The next town was Laguna de Castilla, only a couple kilometers away. I could hear the cowbells and smell the manure of the cows in the dairy barns. I also had a close encounter with a dog, but it turns out he was chasing a car, not me.

I had breakfast at Laguna de Castilla and resumed my walk. It was a cool, sunny morning and I kept climbing up the mountain, until I finally reached the stone marker that announced I was entering Galicia. The views were getting more spectacular until I reached O Cebreiro. Around this time, my stomach was acting up, so I didn’t get to enjoy it a whole lot, but I was able to care of my ailments.

There was a couple of tour buses and out came what has been called “turigrinos”. I wasn’t happy with such a big crowd so I left town. I stopped at the town of Liñares, which I mistook for Linares, the birthplace of a Spanish singer very popular back in the 60s and 70s, Raphael Martos. I stopped at a bar to use the bathroom, and struck up a conversation with the lady at the counter. She corrected me by pointing to the town of Linares in Jaén, not this town of Liñares in Galicia. We started to talk about Spain, and I mentioned that I’m a PR and used to be part of Spain, and to my surprise, she pulls out a PR flag given to her by a customer. It was a good moment, I wish I could have stayed longer. Her name is Sofia and she gave me permission to post her pic with the flag.

There were a couple of climbs, the second one was Alto de Poio, which was very steep. I tacked it by using a zig-zag approach. Looking back at the ground I’ve covered, I was insanely high, and eventually I got to the top, where I knew was a bar…but it was mobbed by teenagers, apparently on a school trip. I wound up going to the bar across the street, and ordered lunch, which was very generous. The bar was deserted other than a couple of older men talking in Galego (Galician), something I kept hearing all day.

It was getting late in the afternoon.i knew that the route will start going sharply downhill, but I still had to walk about 10 Km downhill, and no telling what kind of terrain I would find. It was also getting much warmer, and that has a draining effect. I even considered calling a Taxi, but I gave myself little breaks with each successive town I reached. The views continued to be spectacular and that helped take my mind off the tiredness and heat.

Eventually, I got to Triacastela. I showered, ate, and now ready to go to bed, but tomorrow will be shorter. I’ll be going to Sarria.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/EmjMGtpKpYPoHs93/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[J Willhaus]

You are nearly there!

 

[Anamiri]

That climb to Alto do Poio is always a surprise

 

[dbier]

From what I've read, there's nothing in front of you that's as difficult as what's already behind you.

You *so* got this!

 

[trecile]

I'm happy to hear that you made it to Triacastela without resorting to taking a taxi. I knew that you could do it!

 

[bestfootforward]

I hope this is the final stretch!

What a day! I’m bone tired and had trouble staying awake writing this, so I hope I’m writing clearly…

La Faba to Triacastela, 17.1 miles,27.5 Km.

Last night, when having dinner at the only restaurant that I could find in La Faba whether they opened in the morning, and I was told yes, at 6:30 AM. They weren’t. Luckily I had some snacks with me so I didn’t start on a completely empty stomach.

It was still dark and my little headlamp wasn’t much help. When leaving town, the trail becomes very steep and rocky, and I felt uncomfortable with how little I could see. Fortunately several pilgrims started to trickle by, with much better lights, so I took advantage of the added visibility when they passed me by.

It was a very steep, rocky uphill but fortunately only a couple kilometers, and daybreak came, which helped me a lot feel more secure in my footing. The next town was Laguna de Castilla, only a couple kilometers away. I could hear the cowbells and smell the manure of the cows in the dairy barns. I also had a close encounter with a dog, but it turns out he was chasing a car, not me.

I had breakfast at Laguna de Castilla and resumed my walk. It was a cool, sunny morning and I kept climbing up the mountain, until I finally reached the stone marker that announced I was entering Galicia. The views were getting more spectacular until I reached O Cebreiro. Around this time, my stomach was acting up, so I didn’t get to enjoy it a whole lot, but I was able to care of my ailments.

There was a couple of tour buses and out came what has been called “turigrinos”. I wasn’t happy with such a big crowd so I left town. I stopped at the town of Liñares, which I mistook for Linares, the birthplace of a Spanish singer very popular back in the 60s and 70s, Raphael Martos. I stopped at a bar to use the bathroom, and struck up a conversation with the lady at the counter. She corrected me by pointing to the town of Linares in Jaén, not this town of Liñares in Galicia. We started to talk about Spain, and I mentioned that I’m a PR and used to be part of Spain, and to my surprise, she pulls out a PR flag given to her by a customer. It was a good moment, I wish I could have stayed longer. Her name is Sofia and she gave me permission to post her pic with the flag.

There were a couple of climbs, the second one was Alto de Poio, which was very steep. I tacked it by using a zig-zag approach. Looking back at the ground I’ve covered, I was insanely high, and eventually I got to the top, where I knew was a bar…but it was mobbed by teenagers, apparently on a school trip. I wound up going to the bar across the street, and ordered lunch, which was very generous. The bar was deserted other than a couple of older men talking in Galego (Galician), something I kept hearing all day.

It was getting late in the afternoon.i knew that the route will start going sharply downhill, but I still had to walk about 10 Km downhill, and no telling what kind of terrain I would find. It was also getting much warmer, and that has a draining effect. I even considered calling a Taxi, but I gave myself little breaks with each successive town I reached. The views continued to be spectacular and that helped take my mind off the tiredness and heat.

Eventually, I got to Triacastela. I showered, ate, and now ready to go to bed, but tomorrow will be shorter. I’ll be going to Sarria.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/EmjMGtpKpYPoHs93/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Your 'questioning' first post is well behind you Hector! A mighty effort thus far. You've done everything and more. Buen Camino!

 

[Bala]

Well done! You're coming into the home stretch!

 

[HBS60]

Note; I forgot to include the Relive map video, i just added it so it should be visible now

 

[VNwalking]

Hey Hector, well done!
After Sarria it's more pleasant to stay at smaller pueblos, rather than the 'usual' ones where everyone stops. You have lots of options. For example, in April I stayed at a really nice albergue in Boente after Melide, El Alemain. I just walked in without booking, and it was a fabulous place.

 

[MARSKA]

So glad you are doing well! Its quite the trip, no? I truly enjoy your posts.

 

[SioCamino]

@HBS60 I finished last week and my experience staying at in-between places sounded completely different to friends who stayed at the common stage points.

I walked
1.Samos to A Pena staying at Casa do Rego at the 100km mark (lovely place all the good reviews are true, great food) - I booked this via WhatsApp
2. A Pena to Airexe de Ligonde(25km) staying at the Xunta (that night one of 4 in 16 possible beds)
3. Airexe to Melide (20km) staying at Albergue San Anton but looked like there were many albergues
4. Melide to Salceda (25km) staying at albergue la corona - lots of beds and good simple local food in the bar/pension up the road.
5. Salceda to SdC (27km)

FYI that night in Salceda there were at least 2 pilgrims who had to taxi back from O Pedrouso as they couldn't find a bed.

Not far to go! Try to enjoy it, the atmosphere changes a bit after Sarria but I found by not staying Sarria/Portomarin/Palas do Rei/Arzúa/O Pedrouso I missed the worst of it and often had the camino to myself

 

[JabbaPapa]

Great !! You've passed all of the biggest ups and downs. Well done

 

[dbier]

Oh, and just a reminder if you want Compostela....after the 100km point, two stamps per day. Easy on that section.

 

[Septarian]

I hope this is the final stretch!

What a day! I’m bone tired and had trouble staying awake writing this, so I hope I’m writing clearly…

La Faba to Triacastela, 17.1 miles,27.5 Km.

Last night, when having dinner at the only restaurant that I could find in La Faba whether they opened in the morning, and I was told yes, at 6:30 AM. They weren’t. Luckily I had some snacks with me so I didn’t start on a completely empty stomach.

It was still dark and my little headlamp wasn’t much help. When leaving town, the trail becomes very steep and rocky, and I felt uncomfortable with how little I could see. Fortunately several pilgrims started to trickle by, with much better lights, so I took advantage of the added visibility when they passed me by.

It was a very steep, rocky uphill but fortunately only a couple kilometers, and daybreak came, which helped me a lot feel more secure in my footing. The next town was Laguna de Castilla, only a couple kilometers away. I could hear the cowbells and smell the manure of the cows in the dairy barns. I also had a close encounter with a dog, but it turns out he was chasing a car, not me.

I had breakfast at Laguna de Castilla and resumed my walk. It was a cool, sunny morning and I kept climbing up the mountain, until I finally reached the stone marker that announced I was entering Galicia. The views were getting more spectacular until I reached O Cebreiro. Around this time, my stomach was acting up, so I didn’t get to enjoy it a whole lot, but I was able to care of my ailments.

There was a couple of tour buses and out came what has been called “turigrinos”. I wasn’t happy with such a big crowd so I left town. I stopped at the town of Liñares, which I mistook for Linares, the birthplace of a Spanish singer very popular back in the 60s and 70s, Raphael Martos. I stopped at a bar to use the bathroom, and struck up a conversation with the lady at the counter. She corrected me by pointing to the town of Linares in Jaén, not this town of Liñares in Galicia. We started to talk about Spain, and I mentioned that I’m a PR and used to be part of Spain, and to my surprise, she pulls out a PR flag given to her by a customer. It was a good moment, I wish I could have stayed longer. Her name is Sofia and she gave me permission to post her pic with the flag.

There were a couple of climbs, the second one was Alto de Poio, which was very steep. I tacked it by using a zig-zag approach. Looking back at the ground I’ve covered, I was insanely high, and eventually I got to the top, where I knew was a bar…but it was mobbed by teenagers, apparently on a school trip. I wound up going to the bar across the street, and ordered lunch, which was very generous. The bar was deserted other than a couple of older men talking in Galego (Galician), something I kept hearing all day.

It was getting late in the afternoon.i knew that the route will start going sharply downhill, but I still had to walk about 10 Km downhill, and no telling what kind of terrain I would find. It was also getting much warmer, and that has a draining effect. I even considered calling a Taxi, but I gave myself little breaks with each successive town I reached. The views continued to be spectacular and that helped take my mind off the tiredness and heat.

Eventually, I got to Triacastela. I showered, ate, and now ready to go to bed, but tomorrow will be shorter. I’ll be going to Sarria.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/EmjMGtpKpYPoHs93/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Go you! Almost to Sarria……

 

[Colokid]

Be aware of the alternative routes out of Triacastela: via north route, or south via Samos. I took the Samos route (very nice) because it appears the north route doesn't have many resources either for layover or food.

 

[ScouseKeith]

I hope this is the final stretch!

What a day! I’m bone tired and had trouble staying awake writing this, so I hope I’m writing clearly…

La Faba to Triacastela, 17.1 miles,27.5 Km.

Last night, when having dinner at the only restaurant that I could find in La Faba whether they opened in the morning, and I was told yes, at 6:30 AM. They weren’t. Luckily I had some snacks with me so I didn’t start on a completely empty stomach.

It was still dark and my little headlamp wasn’t much help. When leaving town, the trail becomes very steep and rocky, and I felt uncomfortable with how little I could see. Fortunately several pilgrims started to trickle by, with much better lights, so I took advantage of the added visibility when they passed me by.

It was a very steep, rocky uphill but fortunately only a couple kilometers, and daybreak came, which helped me a lot feel more secure in my footing. The next town was Laguna de Castilla, only a couple kilometers away. I could hear the cowbells and smell the manure of the cows in the dairy barns. I also had a close encounter with a dog, but it turns out he was chasing a car, not me.

I had breakfast at Laguna de Castilla and resumed my walk. It was a cool, sunny morning and I kept climbing up the mountain, until I finally reached the stone marker that announced I was entering Galicia. The views were getting more spectacular until I reached O Cebreiro. Around this time, my stomach was acting up, so I didn’t get to enjoy it a whole lot, but I was able to care of my ailments.

There was a couple of tour buses and out came what has been called “turigrinos”. I wasn’t happy with such a big crowd so I left town. I stopped at the town of Liñares, which I mistook for Linares, the birthplace of a Spanish singer very popular back in the 60s and 70s, Raphael Martos. I stopped at a bar to use the bathroom, and struck up a conversation with the lady at the counter. She corrected me by pointing to the town of Linares in Jaén, not this town of Liñares in Galicia. We started to talk about Spain, and I mentioned that I’m a PR and used to be part of Spain, and to my surprise, she pulls out a PR flag given to her by a customer. It was a good moment, I wish I could have stayed longer. Her name is Sofia and she gave me permission to post her pic with the flag.

There were a couple of climbs, the second one was Alto de Poio, which was very steep. I tacked it by using a zig-zag approach. Looking back at the ground I’ve covered, I was insanely high, and eventually I got to the top, where I knew was a bar…but it was mobbed by teenagers, apparently on a school trip. I wound up going to the bar across the street, and ordered lunch, which was very generous. The bar was deserted other than a couple of older men talking in Galego (Galician), something I kept hearing all day.

It was getting late in the afternoon.i knew that the route will start going sharply downhill, but I still had to walk about 10 Km downhill, and no telling what kind of terrain I would find. It was also getting much warmer, and that has a draining effect. I even considered calling a Taxi, but I gave myself little breaks with each successive town I reached. The views continued to be spectacular and that helped take my mind off the tiredness and heat.

Eventually, I got to Triacastela. I showered, ate, and now ready to go to bed, but tomorrow will be shorter. I’ll be going to Sarria.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/EmjMGtpKpYPoHs93/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Well done Héctor you’re almost in the final stretch. Chin up one step at a time. Keith

 

[HBS60]

Triacastela to Sarria: 11.1 miles 17.86 Km.

I got up early as usual and packed my things. As it happened, I was the only occupant of my 10 bunk albergue room, so for a change I didn’t have to pack my cPAP machine in the dark (I’ve gotten good at it as I try not to disturb other pilgrims). I had a nice dinner last night at a big restaurant around the corner, it was a full-service restaurant so I was happy to hear they opened at 6 AM in the morning for breakfast. So I went there thinking I would get my tortilla (which I don’t actually like too much but at least the egg is a protein source). Unfortunately, they weren’t offering tortillas or any other protein source like a bocadillo, just coffee, bread, and pastries. I had my coffee with a yogurt cake, worried because I haven’t been able to find an open tienda in two days, yesterday was Sunday hence closed, on Saturday at La Faba I never saw it open. It’s not that I don’t try to plan ahead…

I set out while still dark, but something didn’t feel right. It was very cold and dark. My headlamp was on and I could actually see my breath fogging up my vision. No other pilgrims was in sight. After debating it, I decided to turn around to wait for daylight. I went back to my albergue and left when there was enough light to not need the headlight. Daybreak is coming later and later each day, but my circadian rhythm hasn’t got the message.

There are two routes I could take to Sarria, and I chose the shorter one. It did involve a climb, nothing as severe as yesterday, but I struggled because I simply didn’t have the energy. I was feeling depleted from yesterday and not having my protein didn’t help. I figured I might have residual dehydration so I drank an Aquarius, which helped.

I decided to take it easy since today’s walk was going to be shorter than yesterday’s, and the climbs not as hard, and mostly over earlier in the day.

A Pilgrim whom I met at Trabadelo caught up with me, much to my surprise, as I figured he’d be way ahead of me. We chatted and then he moved on. Eventually I got to the hardest part of the climb and I sat down at a bench at the entrance of the town Montán, when another Pilgrim I also met in Trabadelo caught up with me and sat next to me. As a rule, people on the Camino have been very friendly and generous, I certainly can’t complain about that.

I knew from the guides that this town didn’t have any restaurants, but at the end I found a vending machine, so I got a Coke (I can’t remember if it was regular or Coke Zero). I continued to walk and stumbled upon a very cool, quirky place, where there were couches, chairs, fruits, foods, decorations, a garden, even a Yoga and meditation room. A pilgrim was playing some random chords on a guitar, and it was a perfect place to relax. The owner even made me a cafe con leche and I got a cupcake. He runs this on a donativo basis. I wish I could have lingered but I had to move on.

Eventually I got to a town that had an open bar, by now it was lunchtime, so I got a bacon burguer (I’m an avowed carnivore) and felt much better after that.

The rest of the walk was uneventful, going up and down hills, cow pastures, through towns paved with cow manure, crossing highways, going through forests, and negotiating the ocasional rocky terrain.

As I got closer to Sarria, it was warming up, but finally I made it to a very nice Albergue. I got settled in, showered, did my laundry, and tried to book my next Albergue. While doing this, I watched how crowd after crowd of young people were coming in. I tried to call several places I the next recommended town, Portomarín, but everything was booked. I knew this could happen because Sarria is a popular Camino starting point because it meets the required 100 Km distance to be walked to obtain the Compostela. Moreover, other Caminos converge with the Camino Francés, so it tends to become crowded from this point on.

Since there are lesser known towns, it’s easier to find a place to stay in these and avoid the crowds. Problem is that it makes it harder to calculate how much to walk each day. At a suggestion that was made to me, tomorrow I’ll stay at Pena, which is only 14 Km away, but the only further away options were too far away. Given that I didn’t do do good this morning, it might be best to limit my walking. I’m hoping to make it to Santiago on the 21-22nd, but it’s hard to predict.

I went out to get dinner and buy some snacks, much easier to do on a big city. They have a nice river walk, where I ate, then I went down to the ATM machine and the store, on the way back I got some ice cream, relaxing and enjoying the views. I’m drinking fluids and I hope to feel energetic enough to tackle the final stretch.

I hope I get a day or two after arriving in Santiago to unwind, maybe I’ll get a pedicure (my poor footsies deserve it, where’s a good place?), if time allows, take a bus to Fisterra to see the ocean but that’s optional.

I’m not sure how to feel. I’m glad that I’m coming close to do what I said I would do, I’m sad that I don’t know if I’ll ever see again some of the nicest people I’ve ever met, I’m excited at plans I have for my garden, revive my woodworking, get into a better fitness program, playing my piano, and looking forward to letting all this marinade and see where it takes me from here.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/5rDAkDaH3DcvbFnW/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[VNwalking]

it makes it harder to calculate how much to walk each day.

How so? It's no harder if you have any guide at all - they all show intermediate distances.
Here's what my map shows:
Lots of options to try:

Casa Morgade, Casa Banderas, and Albergue Mercadoiro are all decent options before Portomarin.

I hope to feel energetic enough to tackle the final stretch.

Why not? You're doing fine, from the sound of it. Weary, yes, but that's normal at this point. But concern about that can sap as much energy as the walking itself. One step at a time is almost always possible, barring injury, acute illness, or heat stress - and fortunately none of those apply.

 

[WalkingLester]

Your Camino won’t end in Santiago. You will still be on it for a long time after your body returns home.

 

[bullingtonce]

I hope this is the final stretch!

What a day! I’m bone tired and had trouble staying awake writing this, so I hope I’m writing clearly…

La Faba to Triacastela, 17.1 miles,27.5 Km.

Last night, when having dinner at the only restaurant that I could find in La Faba whether they opened in the morning, and I was told yes, at 6:30 AM. They weren’t. Luckily I had some snacks with me so I didn’t start on a completely empty stomach.

It was still dark and my little headlamp wasn’t much help. When leaving town, the trail becomes very steep and rocky, and I felt uncomfortable with how little I could see. Fortunately several pilgrims started to trickle by, with much better lights, so I took advantage of the added visibility when they passed me by.

It was a very steep, rocky uphill but fortunately only a couple kilometers, and daybreak came, which helped me a lot feel more secure in my footing. The next town was Laguna de Castilla, only a couple kilometers away. I could hear the cowbells and smell the manure of the cows in the dairy barns. I also had a close encounter with a dog, but it turns out he was chasing a car, not me.

I had breakfast at Laguna de Castilla and resumed my walk. It was a cool, sunny morning and I kept climbing up the mountain, until I finally reached the stone marker that announced I was entering Galicia. The views were getting more spectacular until I reached O Cebreiro. Around this time, my stomach was acting up, so I didn’t get to enjoy it a whole lot, but I was able to care of my ailments.

There was a couple of tour buses and out came what has been called “turigrinos”. I wasn’t happy with such a big crowd so I left town. I stopped at the town of Liñares, which I mistook for Linares, the birthplace of a Spanish singer very popular back in the 60s and 70s, Raphael Martos. I stopped at a bar to use the bathroom, and struck up a conversation with the lady at the counter. She corrected me by pointing to the town of Linares in Jaén, not this town of Liñares in Galicia. We started to talk about Spain, and I mentioned that I’m a PR and used to be part of Spain, and to my surprise, she pulls out a PR flag given to her by a customer. It was a good moment, I wish I could have stayed longer. Her name is Sofia and she gave me permission to post her pic with the flag.

There were a couple of climbs, the second one was Alto de Poio, which was very steep. I tacked it by using a zig-zag approach. Looking back at the ground I’ve covered, I was insanely high, and eventually I got to the top, where I knew was a bar…but it was mobbed by teenagers, apparently on a school trip. I wound up going to the bar across the street, and ordered lunch, which was very generous. The bar was deserted other than a couple of older men talking in Galego (Galician), something I kept hearing all day.

It was getting late in the afternoon.i knew that the route will start going sharply downhill, but I still had to walk about 10 Km downhill, and no telling what kind of terrain I would find. It was also getting much warmer, and that has a draining effect. I even considered calling a Taxi, but I gave myself little breaks with each successive town I reached. The views continued to be spectacular and that helped take my mind off the tiredness and heat.

Eventually, I got to Triacastela. I showered, ate, and now ready to go to bed, but tomorrow will be shorter. I’ll be going to Sarria.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/EmjMGtpKpYPoHs93/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Keep on trucking

 

[bestfootforward]

Triacastela to Sarria: 11.1 miles 17.86 Km.

I got up early as usual and packed my things. As it happened, I was the only occupant of my 10 bunk albergue room, so for a change I didn’t have to pack my cPAP machine in the dark (I’ve gotten good at it as I try not to disturb other pilgrims). I had a nice dinner last night at a big restaurant around the corner, it was a full-service restaurant so I was happy to hear they opened at 6 AM in the morning for breakfast. So I went there thinking I would get my tortilla (which I don’t actually like too much but at least the egg is a protein source). Unfortunately, they weren’t offering tortillas or any other protein source like a bocadillo, just coffee, bread, and pastries. I had my coffee with a yogurt cake, worried because I haven’t been able to find an open tienda in two days, yesterday was Sunday hence closed, on Saturday at La Faba I never saw it open. It’s not that I don’t try to plan ahead…

I set out while still dark, but something didn’t feel right. It was very cold and dark. My headlamp was on and I could actually see my breath fogging up my vision. No other pilgrims was in sight. After debating it, I decided to turn around to wait for daylight. I went back to my albergue and left when there was enough light to not need the headlight. Daybreak is coming later and later each day, but my circadian rhythm hasn’t got the message.

There are two routes I could take to Sarria, and I chose the shorter one. It did involve a climb, nothing as severe as yesterday, but I struggled because I simply didn’t have the energy. I was feeling depleted from yesterday and not having my protein didn’t help. I figured I might have residual dehydration so I drank an Aquarius, which helped.

I decided to take it easy since today’s walk was going to be shorter than yesterday’s, and the climbs not as hard, and mostly over earlier in the day.

A Pilgrim whom I met at Trabadelo caught up with me, much to my surprise, as I figured he’d be way ahead of me. We chatted and then he moved on. Eventually I got to the hardest part of the climb and I sat down at a bench at the entrance of the town Montán, when another Pilgrim I also met in Trabadelo caught up with me and sat next to me. As a rule, people on the Camino have been very friendly and generous, I certainly can’t complain about that.

I knew from the guides that this town didn’t have any restaurants, but at the end I found a vending machine, so I got a Coke (I can’t remember if it was regular or Coke Zero). I continued to walk and stumbled upon a very cool, quirky place, where there were couches, chairs, fruits, foods, decorations, a garden, even a Yoga and meditation room. A pilgrim was playing some random chords on a guitar, and it was a perfect place to relax. The owner even made me a cafe con leche and I got a cupcake. He runs this on a donativo basis. I wish I could have lingered but I had to move on.

Eventually I got to a town that had an open bar, by now it was lunchtime, so I got a bacon burguer (I’m an avowed carnivore) and felt much better after that.

The rest of the walk was uneventful, going up and down hills, cow pastures, through towns paved with cow manure, crossing highways, going through forests, and negotiating the ocasional rocky terrain.

As I got closer to Sarria, it was warming up, but finally I made it to a very nice Albergue. I got settled in, showered, did my laundry, and tried to book my next Albergue. While doing this, I watched how crowd after crowd of young people were coming in. I tried to call several places I the next recommended town, Portomarín, but everything was booked. I knew this could happen because Sarria is a popular Camino starting point because it meets the required 100 Km distance to be walked to obtain the Compostela. Moreover, other Caminos converge with the Camino Francés, so it tends to become crowded from this point on.

Since there are lesser known towns, it’s easier to find a place to stay in these and avoid the crowds. Problem is that it makes it harder to calculate how much to walk each day. At a suggestion that was made to me, tomorrow I’ll stay at Pena, which is only 14 Km away, but the only further away options were too far away. Given that I didn’t do do good this morning, it might be best to limit my walking. I’m hoping to make it to Santiago on the 21-22nd, but it’s hard to predict.

I went out to get dinner and buy some snacks, much easier to do on a big city. They have a nice river walk, where I ate, then I went down to the ATM machine and the store, on the way back I got some ice cream, relaxing and enjoying the views. I’m drinking fluids and I hope to feel energetic enough to tackle the final stretch.

I hope I get a day or two after arriving in Santiago to unwind, maybe I’ll get a pedicure (my poor footsies deserve it, where’s a good place?), if time allows, take a bus to Fisterra to see the ocean but that’s optional.

I’m not sure how to feel. I’m glad that I’m coming close to do what I said I would do, I’m sad that I don’t know if I’ll ever see again some of the nicest people I’ve ever met, I’m excited at plans I have for my garden, revive my woodworking, get into a better fitness program, playing my piano, and looking forward to letting all this marinade and see where it takes me from here.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/5rDAkDaH3DcvbFnW/?mibextid=WC7FNe

That Sarria stretch brings up all sorts of emotions and the coming week will probably be as profound a week for you as the one just before you started. You've really embraced your Camino; the 'go with the flow, plans change but what the heck' philosophy. Revel in every minute ahead and Buen Camino!

 

[mattythedog]

Triacastela to Sarria: 11.1 miles 17.86 Km.

I got up early as usual and packed my things. As it happened, I was the only occupant of my 10 bunk albergue room, so for a change I didn’t have to pack my cPAP machine in the dark (I’ve gotten good at it as I try not to disturb other pilgrims). I had a nice dinner last night at a big restaurant around the corner, it was a full-service restaurant so I was happy to hear they opened at 6 AM in the morning for breakfast. So I went there thinking I would get my tortilla (which I don’t actually like too much but at least the egg is a protein source). Unfortunately, they weren’t offering tortillas or any other protein source like a bocadillo, just coffee, bread, and pastries. I had my coffee with a yogurt cake, worried because I haven’t been able to find an open tienda in two days, yesterday was Sunday hence closed, on Saturday at La Faba I never saw it open. It’s not that I don’t try to plan ahead…

I set out while still dark, but something didn’t feel right. It was very cold and dark. My headlamp was on and I could actually see my breath fogging up my vision. No other pilgrims was in sight. After debating it, I decided to turn around to wait for daylight. I went back to my albergue and left when there was enough light to not need the headlight. Daybreak is coming later and later each day, but my circadian rhythm hasn’t got the message.

There are two routes I could take to Sarria, and I chose the shorter one. It did involve a climb, nothing as severe as yesterday, but I struggled because I simply didn’t have the energy. I was feeling depleted from yesterday and not having my protein didn’t help. I figured I might have residual dehydration so I drank an Aquarius, which helped.

I decided to take it easy since today’s walk was going to be shorter than yesterday’s, and the climbs not as hard, and mostly over earlier in the day.

A Pilgrim whom I met at Trabadelo caught up with me, much to my surprise, as I figured he’d be way ahead of me. We chatted and then he moved on. Eventually I got to the hardest part of the climb and I sat down at a bench at the entrance of the town Montán, when another Pilgrim I also met in Trabadelo caught up with me and sat next to me. As a rule, people on the Camino have been very friendly and generous, I certainly can’t complain about that.

I knew from the guides that this town didn’t have any restaurants, but at the end I found a vending machine, so I got a Coke (I can’t remember if it was regular or Coke Zero). I continued to walk and stumbled upon a very cool, quirky place, where there were couches, chairs, fruits, foods, decorations, a garden, even a Yoga and meditation room. A pilgrim was playing some random chords on a guitar, and it was a perfect place to relax. The owner even made me a cafe con leche and I got a cupcake. He runs this on a donativo basis. I wish I could have lingered but I had to move on.

Eventually I got to a town that had an open bar, by now it was lunchtime, so I got a bacon burguer (I’m an avowed carnivore) and felt much better after that.

The rest of the walk was uneventful, going up and down hills, cow pastures, through towns paved with cow manure, crossing highways, going through forests, and negotiating the ocasional rocky terrain.

As I got closer to Sarria, it was warming up, but finally I made it to a very nice Albergue. I got settled in, showered, did my laundry, and tried to book my next Albergue. While doing this, I watched how crowd after crowd of young people were coming in. I tried to call several places I the next recommended town, Portomarín, but everything was booked. I knew this could happen because Sarria is a popular Camino starting point because it meets the required 100 Km distance to be walked to obtain the Compostela. Moreover, other Caminos converge with the Camino Francés, so it tends to become crowded from this point on.

Since there are lesser known towns, it’s easier to find a place to stay in these and avoid the crowds. Problem is that it makes it harder to calculate how much to walk each day. At a suggestion that was made to me, tomorrow I’ll stay at Pena, which is only 14 Km away, but the only further away options were too far away. Given that I didn’t do do good this morning, it might be best to limit my walking. I’m hoping to make it to Santiago on the 21-22nd, but it’s hard to predict.

I went out to get dinner and buy some snacks, much easier to do on a big city. They have a nice river walk, where I ate, then I went down to the ATM machine and the store, on the way back I got some ice cream, relaxing and enjoying the views. I’m drinking fluids and I hope to feel energetic enough to tackle the final stretch.

I hope I get a day or two after arriving in Santiago to unwind, maybe I’ll get a pedicure (my poor footsies deserve it, where’s a good place?), if time allows, take a bus to Fisterra to see the ocean but that’s optional.

I’m not sure how to feel. I’m glad that I’m coming close to do what I said I would do, I’m sad that I don’t know if I’ll ever see again some of the nicest people I’ve ever met, I’m excited at plans I have for my garden, revive my woodworking, get into a better fitness program, playing my piano, and looking forward to letting all this marinade and see where it takes me from here.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/5rDAkDaH3DcvbFnW/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Good job. You found Si’s oasis by going the hill route. I used to go via Samos, but last 4 times I went the shorter way for peace and the fantastic assortment of treats.

“Crowded” as it was last May, I got a whole dorm room to myself in each of the 3 Albergue’s I stayed on the way to Santiago….with no reservations….late in the day. Just stop in small villages.

 

[ScouseKeith]

Note; I forgot to include the Relive map video, i just added it so it should be visible now

Hi Héctor
The final push is nigh. VM is spot on, I chose to stop the last Albergue before hitting the main towns, most of them have lots of spare beds available without booking and I was walking July and August so shouldn’t be a problem now.
When you’ve walked from SJPP to Santiago you feel a real sense of accomplishment and take time to reflect your journey. Unfortunately it sounds like the Sarria walkers are still plenty full, avoid them as much as possible, their noise will spoil your karma. It’s a hugely proud achievement walking the whole Camino Héctor. You’ve faced many challenges and fought through terribly proud of you. Buen Camino Keith

 

[J Willhaus]

Casa Banderas is owned by Americans in Vilacha if you can stop in to say hello.

 

[HBS60]

Thanks for all the responses, much appreciated.
I can’t find any Albergue in Vilacha listed in Wise Pilgrim or Gronze, so I booked Casa do Rego in Pena.

This is my tentative itinerary:

Tuesday, Casa do Rego in Pena 14.2 Kn from Sarria
Wednesday: Eirexe 24.6 Km
Thursday: Melide 22.1 Km
Friday: Calle-O Outero 21.9 Km
Saturday: Lavacolla 20.5
Sunday: SDC!!! An easy 10.3 Km!!! This way I hope to arrive to SDC in good shape, not exhausted, dragging myself.

I’ll try to prebook places in these towns ahead of time but any suggestions welcome. I will consider Furelis if Melide is too full.

What are the hours of the Pilgrim office to get my Compostela? Particularly on a Sunday? I hope to arrive before they are closed.

What was the name of that place in SDC where I can stay? It was suggested to me earlier but it’s buried in the comments.

Fisterra-Muxia- I’m concerned we might get some rain, in which case I’ll pass as I also need time to decompress before my trip to Madrid.

I need suggestions for a place in Madrid reachable from Chamartin station but also convenient to the airport as I have an early flight on the 26th

I’m actually starting to plan my trip back home…

Thanks, once again, for all the support, suggestions and feedback!

 

[trecile]

What are the hours of the Pilgrim office to get my Compostela? Particularly on a Sunday? I hope to arrive before they are closed.

They are open 7 days a week from 10 am to 6 pm.

Pilgrim’s reception office, Santiago de Compostela

Pilgrim’s reception office of Santiago de Compostela. Cathedral of Santiago: services, opening hours, where we are, ...

oficinadelperegrino.com

Register in advance to speed up the process:

Sigle Register | Pilgrim's welcome office

oficinadelperegrino.com

 

[Cicada]

Thanks for all the responses, much appreciated.
I can’t find any Albergue in Vilacha listed in Wise Pilgrim or Gronze, so I booked Casa do Rego in Pena.

This is my tentative itinerary:

Tuesday, Casa do Rego in Pena 14.2 Kn from Sarria
Wednesday: Eirexe 24.6 Km
Thursday: Melide 22.1 Km
Friday: Calle-O Outero 21.9 Km
Saturday: Lavacolla 20.5
Sunday: SDC!!! An easy 10.3 Km!!! This way I hope to arrive to SDC in good shape, not exhausted, dragging myself.

I’ll try to prebook places in these towns ahead of time but any suggestions welcome. I will consider Furelis if Melide is too full.

What are the hours of the Pilgrim office to get my Compostela? Particularly on a Sunday? I hope to arrive before they are closed.

What was the name of that place in SDC where I can stay? It was suggested to me earlier but it’s buried in the comments.

Fisterra-Muxia- I’m concerned we might get some rain, in which case I’ll pass as I also need time to decompress before my trip to Madrid.

I need suggestions for a place in Madrid reachable from Chamartin station but also convenient to the airport as I have an early flight on the 26th

I’m actually starting to plan my trip back home…

Thanks, once again, for all the support, suggestions and feedback!

Pulpo in Melide is a must!

 

[WalkingLester]

Hospedería San Martin Pinario, reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu Must email or call for special cheap pilgrim rooms. Not available on regular booking site. The pilgrim rooms are on the fourth floor and haven’t been remodeled for many years, but are more than adequate with bath and towel!! Private single room last time I was there was 23€.

Lots of places to stay. I also like Costa Vela. Located very close to cathedral but on a quiet street away from the hordes and noise. They have a nice cafe that extends out to a lovely garden.

 

[BarbaraW]

If the Hospedaria is full, somewhere quiet and cheap but close to the centre is Seminario Menor. They have small single rooms, shared bathroom, for 25 euros. Lots of greenery around. It's less than 20 minutes walk from the cathedral by the Rua San Pedro (there's a shorter steeper route, but may not suit you).

 

[jungleboy]

Lots of places to stay. I also like Costa Vela. Located very close to cathedral but on a quiet street away from the hordes and noise. They have a nice cafe that extends out to a lovely garden.

Costa Vella, but yes, great tip as far as the garden and cafe. It's really a hidden gem and an oasis of peace in the centre of Santiago. I try to go there for breakfast or a drink every time I'm in Santiago.

 

[J Willhaus]

Home | Casabanderas3

Describes our home and Albergue on the Camino de Santiago. Allong the last 100 kilometers of The Way

www.casabanderas.com

Sadly looks like they had to close due to licensing.

 

[pien1]

I hope this is the final stretch!

What a day! I’m bone tired and had trouble staying awake writing this, so I hope I’m writing clearly…

La Faba to Triacastela, 17.1 miles,27.5 Km.

Last night, when having dinner at the only restaurant that I could find in La Faba whether they opened in the morning, and I was told yes, at 6:30 AM. They weren’t. Luckily I had some snacks with me so I didn’t start on a completely empty stomach.

It was still dark and my little headlamp wasn’t much help. When leaving town, the trail becomes very steep and rocky, and I felt uncomfortable with how little I could see. Fortunately several pilgrims started to trickle by, with much better lights, so I took advantage of the added visibility when they passed me by.

It was a very steep, rocky uphill but fortunately only a couple kilometers, and daybreak came, which helped me a lot feel more secure in my footing. The next town was Laguna de Castilla, only a couple kilometers away. I could hear the cowbells and smell the manure of the cows in the dairy barns. I also had a close encounter with a dog, but it turns out he was chasing a car, not me.

I had breakfast at Laguna de Castilla and resumed my walk. It was a cool, sunny morning and I kept climbing up the mountain, until I finally reached the stone marker that announced I was entering Galicia. The views were getting more spectacular until I reached O Cebreiro. Around this time, my stomach was acting up, so I didn’t get to enjoy it a whole lot, but I was able to care of my ailments.

There was a couple of tour buses and out came what has been called “turigrinos”. I wasn’t happy with such a big crowd so I left town. I stopped at the town of Liñares, which I mistook for Linares, the birthplace of a Spanish singer very popular back in the 60s and 70s, Raphael Martos. I stopped at a bar to use the bathroom, and struck up a conversation with the lady at the counter. She corrected me by pointing to the town of Linares in Jaén, not this town of Liñares in Galicia. We started to talk about Spain, and I mentioned that I’m a PR and used to be part of Spain, and to my surprise, she pulls out a PR flag given to her by a customer. It was a good moment, I wish I could have stayed longer. Her name is Sofia and she gave me permission to post her pic with the flag.

There were a couple of climbs, the second one was Alto de Poio, which was very steep. I tacked it by using a zig-zag approach. Looking back at the ground I’ve covered, I was insanely high, and eventually I got to the top, where I knew was a bar…but it was mobbed by teenagers, apparently on a school trip. I wound up going to the bar across the street, and ordered lunch, which was very generous. The bar was deserted other than a couple of older men talking in Galego (Galician), something I kept hearing all day.

It was getting late in the afternoon.i knew that the route will start going sharply downhill, but I still had to walk about 10 Km downhill, and no telling what kind of terrain I would find. It was also getting much warmer, and that has a draining effect. I even considered calling a Taxi, but I gave myself little breaks with each successive town I reached. The views continued to be spectacular and that helped take my mind off the tiredness and heat.

Eventually, I got to Triacastela. I showered, ate, and now ready to go to bed, but tomorrow will be shorter. I’ll be going to Sarria.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/EmjMGtpKpYPoHs93/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Hector, been reading your adventures over the last weeks. You are an inspiration, and still have energy to write an entry and replies every day.You inspired me to walk the Frances in next couple of years. ( Porto to SDC last year )
You are almost there, one foot in front of the other, SDC here you come.
To receive your Compostella , they are well organised and it flows nicely, from memory you can organize a qr code on line which makes it even more straight forwarward.
Safe travels, Pien

 

[trecile]

Private single room last time I was there was 23€.

A single room was 27€ last year, and I've read that it's 29€ now. But it does include a buffet breakfast that's much more substantial than just toast and coffee.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I also like Costa Vella. Located very close to cathedral but on a quiet street away from the hordes and noise. They have a nice cafe that extends out to a lovely garden.

I love Costa Vella's cafe. It's beautiful and its gardens feel like a hidden private oasis. I always make sure I go there for breakfast every time I am in Santiago...shhh, it's my little secret.

 

[HBS60]

Just 100 Km to go!!!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Your perseverance has paid off and you're gonna make it to Santiago!

 

[VNwalking]

Pulpo in Melide is a must!

Not everyone's cup of tea. I think (at the risk of being sacrilegious ) it's disgusting. But Melide has a fabulous pasteleria in the center of town opposite the little park.

If Melide is too full, @HBS60, Albergue El Aleman is just before Boente, the next pueblo along.

 

[HBS60]

Not everyone's cup of tea. I think (at the risk of being sacrilegious ) it's disgusting. But Melide has a fabulous pasteleria in the center of town opposite the little park.

If Melide is too full, @HBS60, Albergue El Aleman is just before Boente, the next pueblo along.

If it swims I don’t want it, one of my many quirks. Like I say in Spanish, “nada que nade” I just spent the last couple hours booking albergues until Saturday night, including Melide, which is a bit longer walk than I want because the only place I found before that was Ventas de Narón, 26 Km. The rest of the distances are around 20 Km give or take a couple, and the last walk will be from Lacavolla, just 10 Km away, I might make it to Santiago around noon on Sunday!

Now I need to work on my Santiago stay, I hope taking care of this now will remove a lot of the “bed race” stress. My albergue las night was packed and this morning it was a horde of “grinos” (peregrinos, turigrinos, and a few bicigrinos). It might actually be a way of transitioning back to “real life”.

 

[WalkingLester]

Not everyone's cup of tea. I think (at the risk of being sacrilegious ) it's disgusting. But Melide has a fabulous pasteleria in the center of town opposite the little park.

If Melide is too full, @HBS60, Albergue El Aleman is just before Boente, the next pueblo along.

El Alemán, , nice albergue. I have stayed there three times.

 

[mattythedog]

A single room was 27€ last year, and I've read that it's 29€ now. But it does include a buffet breakfast that's much more substantial than just toast and coffee.

It is still that price

 

[mattythedog]

El Alemán, , nice albergue. I have stayed there three times.

Got a whole dorm room to myself there last May

 

[mattythedog]

I love Costa Vella's cafe. It's beautiful and its gardens feel like a hidden private oasis. I always make sure I go there for breakfast every time I am in Santiago...shhh, it's my little secret.

I almost always go to Costa Vella’s terrace each day I am in Santiago. Ask for a piece of the large cream cheese pie. They run out quickly

 

[HBS60]

FB post for the Day:
Sarria to A Pena, 9.4 Miles, 15.1 Km

The end is near, but I still have some walking to do. As I’ve been told, in Sarria the Camino gets very busy. Leaving town felt like Pilgrim rush hour. Instinctively I tried to synchronize my walking with that of others, but then reminded myself to just take it easy, as today I was planning a short walk.

I felt emotional as I was walking out of Sarria, as I started to reminisce about the early days of my pilgrimage and how different I feel now, comparing my current state with the many young people, fresh and enthusiastic as they began their walk, remembering how idealistic I was when I started. I also missed the many people I met in the route.

I managed to get breakfast at a nice albergue bar just a couple kilometers from Sarria, and noticed how crowded it was. This was true of every town restaurant I found, they were all crowded. A happy moment was when once again I ran into a Pilgrim I met in Trabadelo, as he was leaving a bathroom and I was entering it, but then he was gone. Who knows who I will see again in the road to Santiago!

The weather had been gorgeous, sunny with cool temperatures. The route went through countryside, forests, little villages, hills, valleys, and I got to see farm life up close, with plenty of cows, goats, eith the pungent smell permeating the atmosphere.

We got across a few towns, getting sense of Galician farm life, seeing the horreos (rectangular elevated structures which as I understand, are used to store grain while keeping out the mice and rats).

The highlight of the day was reaching the 100 Km mark, which is also where my albergue for tonight is located. I got settled in, and I started the chore of finding an albergue for tomorrow night…but every place I called was booked.

I started to panic, but I was able to finally book through booking.com, although not necessarily on the places I wanted. I decided to try booking all the way to Santiago, and I managed to book places within a reasonable distance from each other, except for one segment from a place called Ventas de Narón to Melide, 26.2 Km, a bit longer than I would like. On the other hand, the very last leg to Santiago will be only 10 Km, and I expect to arrive to Santiago on Sunday, September 22, just as Autumn begins, and hopefully a new season in my life.

I decided to spend my afternoon out the logistics of lodging in Santiago, then lodging in Madrid prior to my return home. By doing all of this now, I can now relax and enjoy what’s left of my pilgrimage without these details getting in the way causing stress.

I look forward to wrapping up my Camino as relaxed as possible, and I hope I can find a way to finish it in a meaningful way. Taking the bus trip to Fistere would be great, but I think the weather may not cooperate, but I’m sure I’ll figure something out.

Did I just walk across Spain? It seems like a dream, but it’s reality…

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/LwJeiWVDd5KZX72F/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[ScouseKeith]

FB post for the Day:
Sarria to A Pena, 9.4 Miles, 15.1 Km

The end is near, but I still have some walking to do. As I’ve been told, in Sarria the Camino gets very busy. Leaving town felt like Pilgrim rush hour. Instinctively I tried to synchronize my walking with that of others, but then reminded myself to just take it easy, as today I was planning a short walk.

I felt emotional as I was walking out of Sarria, as I started to reminisce about the early days of my pilgrimage and how different I feel now, comparing my current state with the many young people, fresh and enthusiastic as they began their walk, remembering how idealistic I was when I started. I also missed the many people I met in the route.

I managed to get breakfast at a nice albergue bar just a couple kilometers from Sarria, and noticed how crowded it was. This was true of every town restaurant I found, they were all crowded. A happy moment was when once again I ran into a Pilgrim I met in Trabadelo, as he was leaving a bathroom and I was entering it, but then he was gone. Who knows who I will see again in the road to Santiago!

The weather had been gorgeous, sunny with cool temperatures. The route went through countryside, forests, little villages, hills, valleys, and I got to see farm life up close, with plenty of cows, goats, eith the pungent smell permeating the atmosphere.

We got across a few towns, getting sense of Galician farm life, seeing the horreos (rectangular elevated structures which as I understand, are used to store grain while keeping out the mice and rats).

The highlight of the day was reaching the 100 Km mark, which is also where my albergue for tonight is located. I got settled in, and I started the chore of finding an albergue for tomorrow night…but every place I called was booked.

I started to panic, but I was able to finally book through booking.com, although not necessarily on the places I wanted. I decided to try booking all the way to Santiago, and I managed to book places within a reasonable distance from each other, except for one segment from a place called Ventas de Narón to Melide, 26.2 Km, a bit longer than I would like. On the other hand, the very last leg to Santiago will be only 10 Km, and I expect to arrive to Santiago on Sunday, September 22, just as Autumn begins, and hopefully a new season in my life.

I decided to spend my afternoon out the logistics of lodging in Santiago, then lodging in Madrid prior to my return home. By doing all of this now, I can now relax and enjoy what’s left of my pilgrimage without these details getting in the way causing stress.

I look forward to wrapping up my Camino as relaxed as possible, and I hope I can find a way to finish it in a meaningful way. Taking the bus trip to Fistere would be great, but I think the weather may not cooperate, but I’m sure I’ll figure something out.

Did I just walk across Spain? It seems like a dream, but it’s reality…

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/LwJeiWVDd5KZX72F/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Hi Héctor
The bus station is a15-20min walk from Cathedral square. The buses run all day there and back to finisterre 7euros each way. The walk from the town is 3km to the lighthouse up a steady incline nothing too strenuous. It’s invigorating looking out from the rocks at the Atlantic Ocean. The shuttle express takes 90mins and standard bus takes over 2hours. Do it Héctor even if you can’t walk taxi to the light house. I walked 4 Camino and didn’t make the journey until my last one. Cut bruised fractured shoulder I pushed myself through the pain barrier to walk there and back. I filled up standing in front of the lighthouse with tears in my eyes, I had finally finished my Camino and boy did I feel good.
I’m having some surgery this year hence not walking but I’m coming back next year to walk the Via de la plata which will be my final swan song. I will think of your journey and struggles next year, well done Héctor. Keith

 

[HBS60]

Hospedería San Martin Pinario, reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu Must email or call for special cheap pilgrim rooms. Not available on regular booking site. The pilgrim rooms are on the fourth floor and haven’t been remodeled for many years, but are more than adequate with bath and towel!! Private single room last time I was there was 23€.

Lots of places to stay. I also like Costa Vela. Located very close to cathedral but on a quiet street away from the hordes and noise. They have a nice cafe that extends out to a lovely garden.

I emailed them and they responded they have no availability. I couldn’t book anything at Costs Vella, either. I was able to find a place at the Albergue La Estación, which is great as it’s close to the train and bus stations

 

[trecile]

The bus station is a15-20min walk from Cathedral square. The buses run all day there and back to finisterre 7euros

For a one day visit, I would recommend one of the day tours that will take you to Finisterre, Muxía and several other spots that you normally wouldn't see if you walk. There are always people around the Plaza Obradoiro with flyers and information.

I have walked to Finisterre and Muxía, taken the regular bus there and back (but not in one day), and did this bus tour once. If I had only one day and was alone, I would choose the tour.

 

[J Willhaus]

I prefer to end in Muxia. It is a quieter, less touristy vibe and sitting at the church watching the waves is a wonderful way to decompress. Bela Muxia is my go to for lodging, but there's lots of other nice places, too.

 

[HBS60]

Hi Héctor
The bus station is a15-20min walk from Cathedral square. The buses run all day there and back to finisterre 7euros each way. The walk from the town is 3km to the lighthouse up a steady incline nothing too strenuous. It’s invigorating looking out from the rocks at the Atlantic Ocean. The shuttle express takes 90mins and standard bus takes over 2hours. Do it Héctor even if you can’t walk taxi to the light house. I walked 4 Camino and didn’t make the journey until my last one. Cut bruised fractured shoulder I pushed myself through the pain barrier to walk there and back. I filled up standing in front of the lighthouse with tears in my eyes, I had finally finished my Camino and boy did I feel good.
I’m having some surgery this year hence not walking but I’m coming back next year to walk the Via de la plata which will be my final swan song. I will think of your journey and struggles next year, well done Héctor. Keith

Is it worth it if it’s raining/bad weather/fog?

 

[peregrina2000]

Is it worth it if it’s raining/bad weather/fog?

I’ve been at the lighthouse in Finisterre probably a dozen times, and have seen two good sunsets. Maybe I’m unlucky but that’s been my experience. I would not go there if it was a serious rainstorm, but being there in fog, drizzle, etc didn’t take away from the fact that I was sitting quietly looking out over the ocean contemplating what was coming to an end.

On the other hand, I would definitely go to the rocks in Muxia in a steady rain, unless there were lightening warnings. The drama of the crashing rocks is intensified and it is pretty awesome.

Buen camino, Héctor!

 

[mattythedog]

Is it worth it if it’s raining/bad weather/fog?

It is worth it. Nearly every time I left Santiago in rain, it was clear 10 km away and along the coast

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I loved my overnights in Muxia. So relaxing, and walking up on the trail with great views to the top looking out over the village below. So peaceful and special.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The crashing waves at Muxia on the huge rocks I would think are quite special in any weather. Two different springs for me.

 

[VNwalking]

Did I just walk across Spain?

Not quite yet, but definitely getting there!

You'll never look at a map of Europe in the same way.

 

[dbier]

Is it worth it if it’s raining/bad weather/fog?

Muxia is worth it, either way. Busses were easy.

And, if it moves you, say hi at Guillermo's memorial (on your right as you pass). I have, both times.

 

[Bill905]

The crashing waves at Muxia on the huge rocks I would think are quite special in any weather. Two different springs for me.
View attachment 177768
View attachment 177769

When I took the tour in Muxia this past spring, the tour guide pointed out a large rock on the shore that had a specific legend attached to it. He said that if you were without sin and stepped on the rock, it would move. Despite how much I jumped up and down, the rock would not budge!!

 

[unadara]

Hector
Have you booked Lavacolla yet? where?

 

[mattythedog]

When I took the tour in Muxia this past spring, the tour guide pointed out a large rock on the shore that had a specific legend attached to it. He said that if you were without sin and stepped on the rock, it would move. Despite how much I jumped up and down, the rock would not budge!!

Maybe it was the wrong rock

 

[bestfootforward]

When I took the tour in Muxia this past spring, the tour guide pointed out a large rock on the shore that had a specific legend attached to it. He said that if you were without sin and stepped on the rock, it would move. Despite how much I jumped up and down, the rock would not budge!!

As Billy Joel sang, "I'd rather laugh with the sinners, than cry with the saints. The sinners are much more fun"......

 

[Camo]

Sarria to A Pena, 9.4 Miles, 15.1 Km

Although you are cutting back on distance you are still at the 70% walking rate and no mention of feet - looking good

 

[HBS60]

Although you are cutting back on distance you are still at the 70% walking rate and no mention of feet - looking good

I keep forgetting to mention that I haven’t had blisters since León, probably because of the new shoes and a cream I got at a León pharmacy.
I also keep forgetting to ask about the google man you keep mentioning and the percentage calculations. Is this using Google maps?

 

[trecile]

I keep forgetting to mention that I haven’t had blisters since León, probably because of the new shoes and a cream I got at a León pharmacy.

Yay!

 

[Camo]

google man you keep mentioning and the percentage calculations. Is this using Google maps?

Yes it is just the "Directions" (satnav) in Google Maps eg for today

It says 3h 36m for walking man and only reason I know it gets modified for up/down is that the reverse of this walk is 14 minutes less - like one does not TALK to Google as such.

So I simply divide that time over your time in Relive and it came to 69% today from memory.

 

[HBS60]

FB post for the day:
From A Pena to Ventas de Narón, 13.8 miles, 22.2 Km

I set out as usual, managed to have coffee and some cupcakes, thinking that since there were a couple of towns down the road which were listed as having services, I would be able to find something more substantial…but I forgot that it’s Wednesday, which in many towns is “rest day” and everything is closed.

Then again, so many of these towns look like ghost towns, I can’t see any life in them. Since I had eaten something, I was doing well and watched a glorious full moon as it was setting. Too bad it’s so hard for me to capture in my iPhone what I actually saw.

It was a pleasant morning, without the hordes of pilgrims, just the usual trickle. I went through several stone-lined corridor paths, that led me through lifeless towns, corn fields, next to cows and the occasional dog.

I stumbled upon a gift shop that had coffee, enjoyed looking at the trinkets before moving on. I was sure that a bigger town like Portomarín would have something. The cafeteria I found had just croissants and toast, not much else, but it was better han nothing.

I went on my walk, with the terrain getting hillier as the day was getting warmer. A Dutch man who was at my Albergue last night caught up with me. He actually gave me the spare ham and cheese sandwich he had ordered at a different place that I found. I tried to decline it but he was insistent. We started talking about history as the Netherlands and Spain have had their share of conflicts in the past. The conversation helped take the mind off the heat and the progressively difficult terrain, which was getting steeper, but eventually leveled off. He was staying a couple of towns before my destination for today, so we parted company.

I was exhausted by the steep hills, but tomorrows walk should be easier because there’s a lot of downhill. I finally got to my albergue, unpacked, showered, and was getting settled in when I got a text alert. My credit card as been hacked. I called the card and went over the fraudulent charges, so it was decided to cancel it and get new one, which should take about a week. Arrgh…

It’s taken care of, but it certainly added stress I didn’t need. But it should be all right. Tomorrow will be another day. I sat down for a nice meal at the Albergue and ordered a ham and cheese sandwich to take with me for tomorrow. My goal is to reach Mélide, 26 Km away so I need to have a full stomach to do that.

I hope that I make it to Melide but it might be later than I want, but the trade off is shorter days from then on. Hopefully, tomorrow will be my last long day.

Link to FB post for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/ThCyzdP8MScbh6QR/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Sorry to hear about your card, good that you got it sorted so readily. Enjoy your last few days!

 

[J Willhaus]

FB post for the day:
From A Pena to Ventas de Narón, 13.8 miles, 22.2 Km

I set out as usual, managed to have coffee and some cupcakes, thinking that since there were a couple of towns down the road which were listed as having services, I would be able to find something more substantial…but I forgot that it’s Wednesday, which in many towns is “rest day” and everything is closed.

Then again, so many of these towns look like ghost towns, I can’t see any life in them. Since I had eaten something, I was doing well and watched a glorious full moon as it was setting. Too bad it’s so hard for me to capture in my iPhone what I actually saw.

It was a pleasant morning, without the hordes of pilgrims, just the usual trickle. I went through several stone-lined corridor paths, that led me through lifeless towns, corn fields, next to cows and the occasional dog.

I stumbled upon a gift shop that had coffee, enjoyed looking at the trinkets before moving on. I was sure that a bigger town like Portomarín would have something. The cafeteria I found had just croissants and toast, not much else, but it was better han nothing.

I went on my walk, with the terrain getting hillier as the day was getting warmer. A Dutch man who was at my Albergue last night caught up with me. He actually gave me the spare ham and cheese sandwich he had ordered at a different place that I found. I tried to decline it but he was insistent. We started talking about history as the Netherlands and Spain have had their share of conflicts in the past. The conversation helped take the mind off the heat and the progressively difficult terrain, which was getting steeper, but eventually leveled off. He was staying a couple of towns before my destination for today, so we parted company.

I was exhausted by the steep hills, but tomorrows walk should be easier because there’s a lot of downhill. I finally got to my albergue, unpacked, showered, and was getting settled in when I got a text alert. My credit card as been hacked. I called the card and went over the fraudulent charges, so it was decided to cancel it and get new one, which should take about a week. Arrgh…

It’s taken care of, but it certainly added stress I didn’t need. But it should be all right. Tomorrow will be another day. I sat down for a nice meal at the Albergue and ordered a ham and cheese sandwich to take with me for tomorrow. My goal is to reach Mélide, 26 Km away so I need to have a full stomach to do that.

I hope that I make it to Melide but it might be later than I want, but the trade off is shorter days from then on. Hopefully, tomorrow will be my last long day.

Link to FB post for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/ThCyzdP8MScbh6QR/?mibextid=WC7FNe

My card has also been hacked in Spain so I feel your pain and my husband's was hacked this summer in Canada. Really a hassle when you are on the road!

In the morning there should be places open once you get to Palas de Rei to eat. If you are at Santa Cruz/ Ventas de Narron, there isn't too much so if you can get breakfast or a sandwich to take along, I would do that.

 

[CWBuff]

When I took the tour in Muxia this past spring, the tour guide pointed out a large rock on the shore that had a specific legend attached to it. He said that if you were without sin and stepped on the rock, it would move. Despite how much I jumped up and down, the rock would not budge!!

Maybe it was the wrong rock

I'm thinking the same. The "right" rock also has a sword sticking out of it.....

 

[CWBuff]

Yes it is just the "Directions" (satnav) in Google Maps eg for today
View attachment 177780
It says 3h 36m for walking man and only reason I know it gets modified for up/down is that the reverse of this walk is 14 minutes less - like one does not TALK to Google as such.

So I simply divide that time over your time in Relive and it came to 69% today from memory.

Are you SURE though that the route indicated is "Camino"? IIRC I did it couple of times paying a good attention which way it will take me and quite a number of times it was right along the highway or any like-road, not the "Camino trail"

 

[JabbaPapa]

Are you SURE though that the route indicated is "Camino"? IIRC I did it couple of times paying a good attention which way it will take me and quite a number of times it was right along the highway or any like-road, not the "Camino trail"

It's the exact same route in mapy.cz

https://en.mapy.cz/turisticka?l=0&x=-7.4581582&y=42.7781268&z=15

 

[Camo]

It's the exact same route in mapy.cz

Yes it seems to follow mapy.cz exactly and cross checks at 21.1 km on distance (walking) from Sarria (same point) to Portomarin (same point).

However I am not attempting to describe the bike path and the times for bike on the Google Map are basically along the walking track whereas mappy shows a few diversions by road. That is to say the file I started with was specifically for walking and if I could count on another 6 months of life and had nothing better to do I could repeat the whole Web-App for bike (but that's not about to happen )

 

[MARSKA]

I remember so well how I felt staying at Lavacolla, walking into SDC, and finding my space there. Thank you for sharing and I hope you have an easy decompression at home

 

[HBS60]

Ventas de Narón to Melide, 16.9 miles 27.1 Km

A very, very long but rather uneventful day. Knowing it would be a long day, I wanted to get started early, but there was a very thick fog and my little headlamp made things worse, so I just waited it out. I ate half of the bocadillo I bought last evening, drank my Coke to make sure I had my caffeine fix, then tried again. No go, I couldn’t see any markers or signs and had no idea where I was going. A car’s headlights headed my direction told me I was on a road, and I saw a dog headed straight towards me. Turns out it was a friendly German Shepherd I saw yesterday hanging out the albergue. I decided to go back as I knew the albergues bar would open around 7 AM, so I could have my coffee and hang out until daylight came, which has been later and later.
While having coffee, I had small talk with a middle-aged Mexican American man, but as it was getting lighter, I went ahead and started walking around 8 AM.
I was definitely on a road, easy to follow, and I wish I could have seen the sights hidden by the fog, because once more I was climbing. I soon felt overheated from the exertion so I started to shed layers. The gentleman I was talking with earlier caught up with me and we had a nice talk about our countries, politics, I wish a friendly talk like this was more of the norm.
Eventually the Camino took us off the road to a trail that had rough, rocky terrain, so I told the guy to go ahead as I need time to safely walk over rocks. I continued for a while but I stopped at a nice, cozy bar because I had to use the bathroom. I make a point to buy something if I’m going to use their services, do I got an Aquarius.
I continued on, and I heard unmistakable hoof eats behind me. Sure enough, a local man was riding his horse on the trail, and he graciously let me take his picture.
I reached Palas de Reí for lunch, then went on my way. By this time the fog had cleared and the day was warming up, but fortunately the trail was frequently through forests with plenty of shade, much better than yesterday. It was a pleasant walk, with no signs of the hordes I saw a couple days ago. The route had lots of ups and downs, mostly downhills but with several uphills, nothing horrible but tiring after so many kilometers.
Finally I got to Melide, which is a large city with plenty of restaurants, it I was too tired, so I went to a pizza place. After eating, I got to my albergue, showered, did laundry, and I’m ready to crash. Thankfully, for the rest of my pilgrimage I won’t have another day this long.

Tomorrow I go to Calle, 21.9 Km away. The next day I go to Lacavolla, 20.5 Km, then…Santiago! Thus my journey will come to an end.

I’m grateful for the support and feedback I’ve gotten!

Fb link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/kZarSX46Dbu5VxhP/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[HBS60]

Hector
Have you booked Lavacolla yet? where?

Yes, I did a couple days ago, at Hotel Casa Garcas

 

[Anhalter]

One last recommendation: On your day to Lavacolla, you will walk by O'Pedrouzo. It is either on the way or a small detour.
It is the town i had my best steak on the Camino. The place is called "Bar O'Pedrouzo", looks like nothing but serves very good meat. We had the Chuleton with the hot stone, easily enough for two at what i found a very reasonable price (in 2019)

 

[unadara]

I think that might be a good place for you to stay Hector. I stayed there on my first Camino before I flew home, not when I was walking in. I was going to recommend the local new Albergue A fabrica where I stayed this year. It is beside the church and 2 local bars. But it is single beds with Curtains. The communal area and gardens however are wonderful, and a good kitchen.

 

[Camo]

Ventas de Narón to Melide, 16.9 miles 27.1 Km

Up to 74% today so you must be smelling the finishing post

 

[HBS60]

Fb post for today:
Melide to Calle Outeiro 14.3 miles 23 very wet, hilly Kms…

Daylight is later each day, so I tried to linger at the albergue, but eventually I set out at 7:30. It was still dark but I figured the city’s street lights will help me until daybreak. Not quite what happened, as soon I found myself in a dark trail, and my little headlamp wasn’t much help. Fortunately there were several pilgrims out there with better lights, but I struggled a bit until there was enough daylight to see where I was walking.
There was a split in the trail, with an alternate but longer route, I opted for the traditional route, as did a friendly Spaniard couple ahead of me. They went on, and I could see them ahead in the forest crossing what seemed to be a bridge over a stream.
When I got there, I found a series of rocks that served as a bridge, and my anxiety went up, because I wasn’t sure I could maintain my balance. Gingerly, I started to step on the rocks, remembering my crossing the blocks back in Bizcarreta so many weeks ago, only these were not flat, wide blocks, but irregularly shaped rocks.
I heard a voice up front, it was the lady of the friendly couple, for whatever reason she looked back and saw me hesitating, and started to encourage me until I got to the other side, and grabbed my hand until I was safe. Of course, a young man on a bike got to that spot, grabbed his bike, carried it across the rocks with no hint of trouble. Arrrgh! St this point I was glad that we were not expecting rain until the afternoon, because I would have an even harder time crossing those stones.
I continued to walk, making small tslk with the couple, enjoying the scent of the eucalyptus trees, and i stopped at a little cafe where I could eat something and they moved on.
I resumed my walk, either several pilgrims around, and then it starts raining. So much for the afternoon rain forecast. Luckily I was close to a tree canopy that protected me and the other pilgrims from the full force of the rain, and out came the rain jacket and backpack protector. It really helped continue my walk.
After an hour or so of walking, the rain tapered off, and I stopped at another cafe, where I tried my first Tarta de Santiago, which is an almond-based cake. It was good even though I’m not crazy about almonds.
I continued my walk, which had lots of up and down hills, but other than a few rough spots, the terrain was ok, and the tree corridors were lovely. It was even better when I heard an older Andalusian man walking with his daughter singing “Ese toro enamorao de la luna”, a song I heard a lot in my childhood, and I couldn’t resist and joined him singing as we walked in the forest. It was so cool!
I reached Arzúa, which is a common ending point for Pilgrims starting their day in Palas de Reí. I thought about having lunch there but the weather forecast cdlled for possible thunderstorms in the afternoon, and seeing how crowded the bars were, I didn’t want to wait so long that I would be behind schedule and be caught in a storm. I wasn’t that hungry anyway because of the Tarta de Santiago I had earlier.
Finally I did stop at a cute place where I ordered a meat lasagna, which is what I needed after so many pilgrim meals.
I resumed my walk, got through more up and down hills, and it started to rain again, thankfully just lightly and we didn’t get a thunderstorm. I didn’t mind the rain as I had my rain jacket, and besides, what would Galicia be without its rain?
So I’m settled in for the day, waiting for dinner time. Unfortunately a small town like this doesn’t have many options, so I’ll eat at the albergue tonight. No breakfast offered for tomorrow so I’ll have to walk 3 Km, but at this point, 3km is nothing, o can only hope to find something open.
Tomorrow I have another average distance walk, to Lacavolla, 20.5 Km away. It will be my last full walking day and we are also expecting rain, but if it’s anything like today, I can handle it.

Fb link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/NBB4Zx8eaCnG5XeW/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[J Willhaus]

Fb post for today:
Melide to Calle Outeiro 14.3 miles 23 very wet, hilly Kms…

Daylight is later each day, so I tried to linger at the albergue, but eventually I set out at 7:30. It was still dark but I figured the city’s street lights will help me until daybreak. Not quite what happened, as soon I found myself in a dark trail, and my little headlamp wasn’t much help. Fortunately there were several pilgrims out there with better lights, but I struggled a bit until there was enough daylight to see where I was walking.
There was a split in the trail, with an alternate but longer route, I opted for the traditional route, as did a friendly Spaniard couple ahead of me. They went on, and I could see them ahead in the forest crossing what seemed to be a bridge over a stream.
When I got there, I found a series of rocks that served as a bridge, and my anxiety went up, because I wasn’t sure I could maintain my balance. Gingerly, I started to step on the rocks, remembering my crossing the blocks back in Bizcarreta so many weeks ago, only these were not flat, wide blocks, but irregularly shaped rocks.
I heard a voice up front, it was the lady of the friendly couple, for whatever reason she looked back and saw me hesitating, and started to encourage me until I got to the other side, and grabbed my hand until I was safe. Of course, a young man on a bike got to that spot, grabbed his bike, carried it across the rocks with no hint of trouble. Arrrgh! St this point I was glad that we were not expecting rain until the afternoon, because I would have an even harder time crossing those stones.
I continued to walk, making small tslk with the couple, enjoying the scent of the eucalyptus trees, and i stopped at a little cafe where I could eat something and they moved on.
I resumed my walk, either several pilgrims around, and then it starts raining. So much for the afternoon rain forecast. Luckily I was close to a tree canopy that protected me and the other pilgrims from the full force of the rain, and out came the rain jacket and backpack protector. It really helped continue my walk.
After an hour or so of walking, the rain tapered off, and I stopped at another cafe, where I tried my first Tarta de Santiago, which is an almond-based cake. It was good even though I’m not crazy about almonds.
I continued my walk, which had lots of up and down hills, but other than a few rough spots, the terrain was ok, and the tree corridors were lovely.
I reached Arzúa, which is a common ending point for Pilgrims starting their day in Palas de Reí. I thought about having lunch there but the weather forecast cdlled for possible thunderstorms in the afternoon, and seeing how crowded the bars were, I didn’t want to wait so long that I would be behind schedule and be caught in a storm. I wasn’t that hungry anyway because of the Tarta de Santiago I had earlier.
Finally I did stop at a cute place where I ordered a meat lasagna, which is what I needed after so many pilgrim meals.
I resumed my walk, got through more up and down hills, and it started to rain again, thankfully just lightly and we didn’t get a thunderstorm. I didn’t mind the rain as I had my rain jacket, and besides, what would Galicia be without its rain?
So I’m settled in for the day, waiting for dinner time. Unfortunately a small town like this doesn’t have many options, so I’ll eat at the albergue tonight. No breakfast offered for tomorrow so I’ll have to walk 3 Km, but at this point, 3km is nothing, o can only hope to find something open.
Tomorrow I have another average distance walk, to Lacavolla, 20.5 Km away. It will be my last full walking day and we are also expecting rain, but if it’s anything like today, I can handle it.

Fb link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/NBB4Zx8eaCnG5XeW/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Last winter in the dark, two of my students and the other teacher in our group took a wrong turn coming out of Melide in that forest and walked an extra km and and another back. It was only after they had climbed over a fallen tree in the rain that they realized they were off course and back tracked. They all had good headlamps as well as flashers on the back of the pack so it can easily happen even with a very strong headlamp.

 

[CWBuff]

So I’m settled in for the day, waiting for dinner time. Unfortunately a small town like this doesn’t have many options, ...

Me and my whole Camino Family had aboslutely no problem finding a place to eat at Arzua (Churrería "O' Furancho d' Santiso" Taperia-Meson) and that was the place where I had for the first time (and chances are the last one) Raja! it wasn't "bad" per se, just un-inspiring...bland almost tasteless.....
Chicken Noodle Soup and Raspberry cheesecake on the other hand were outstanding!

 

[RJE]

You’re almost there my friend. I arrived today, and while I was glad to be done, I took extra time to savor my last day on the Camino. Enjoy it.

 

[VNwalking]

Tomorrow I have another average distance walk, to Lacavolla, 20.5 Km away. It will be my last full walking day and we are also expecting rain, but if it’s anything like today, I can handle it.

Of course you can - surely there's no longer any concern about that! Given what you've done, you could walk in to Santiago if you had to. Fortunately you can take your time.

Right after going around the airport in San Paio, there are a couple of nice spots to stop for breakfast. I always tend to go in to the first one, but this April it was crowded so I tried a newer place opposite the church. Fantastic, highly recommended!

Home stretch. Ony one big downhill left, right before coming into Santiago - it's merely a bit steep, on pavement rather than rocky.

 

[bestfootforward]

Last winter in the dark, two of my students and the other teacher in our group took a wrong turn coming out of Melide in that forest and walked an extra km and and another back. It was only after they had climbed over a fallen tree in the rain that they realized they were off course and back tracked. They all had good headlamps as well as flashers on the back of the pack so it can easily happen even with a very strong headlamp.

Fb post for today:
Melide to Calle Outeiro 14.3 miles 23 very wet, hilly Kms…

Daylight is later each day, so I tried to linger at the albergue, but eventually I set out at 7:30. It was still dark but I figured the city’s street lights will help me until daybreak. Not quite what happened, as soon I found myself in a dark trail, and my little headlamp wasn’t much help. Fortunately there were several pilgrims out there with better lights, but I struggled a bit until there was enough daylight to see where I was walking.
There was a split in the trail, with an alternate but longer route, I opted for the traditional route, as did a friendly Spaniard couple ahead of me. They went on, and I could see them ahead in the forest crossing what seemed to be a bridge over a stream.
When I got there, I found a series of rocks that served as a bridge, and my anxiety went up, because I wasn’t sure I could maintain my balance. Gingerly, I started to step on the rocks, remembering my crossing the blocks back in Bizcarreta so many weeks ago, only these were not flat, wide blocks, but irregularly shaped rocks.
I heard a voice up front, it was the lady of the friendly couple, for whatever reason she looked back and saw me hesitating, and started to encourage me until I got to the other side, and grabbed my hand until I was safe. Of course, a young man on a bike got to that spot, grabbed his bike, carried it across the rocks with no hint of trouble. Arrrgh! St this point I was glad that we were not expecting rain until the afternoon, because I would have an even harder time crossing those stones.
I continued to walk, making small tslk with the couple, enjoying the scent of the eucalyptus trees, and i stopped at a little cafe where I could eat something and they moved on.
I resumed my walk, either several pilgrims around, and then it starts raining. So much for the afternoon rain forecast. Luckily I was close to a tree canopy that protected me and the other pilgrims from the full force of the rain, and out came the rain jacket and backpack protector. It really helped continue my walk.
After an hour or so of walking, the rain tapered off, and I stopped at another cafe, where I tried my first Tarta de Santiago, which is an almond-based cake. It was good even though I’m not crazy about almonds.
I continued my walk, which had lots of up and down hills, but other than a few rough spots, the terrain was ok, and the tree corridors were lovely.
I reached Arzúa, which is a common ending point for Pilgrims starting their day in Palas de Reí. I thought about having lunch there but the weather forecast cdlled for possible thunderstorms in the afternoon, and seeing how crowded the bars were, I didn’t want to wait so long that I would be behind schedule and be caught in a storm. I wasn’t that hungry anyway because of the Tarta de Santiago I had earlier.
Finally I did stop at a cute place where I ordered a meat lasagna, which is what I needed after so many pilgrim meals.
I resumed my walk, got through more up and down hills, and it started to rain again, thankfully just lightly and we didn’t get a thunderstorm. I didn’t mind the rain as I had my rain jacket, and besides, what would Galicia be without its rain?
So I’m settled in for the day, waiting for dinner time. Unfortunately a small town like this doesn’t have many options, so I’ll eat at the albergue tonight. No breakfast offered for tomorrow so I’ll have to walk 3 Km, but at this point, 3km is nothing, o can only hope to find something open.
Tomorrow I have another average distance walk, to Lacavolla, 20.5 Km away. It will be my last full walking day and we are also expecting rain, but if it’s anything like today, I can handle it.

Fb link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/NBB4Zx8eaCnG5XeW/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Of course you'll handle it. You've handled way more over the past 6 weeks Hector! And as @RJE said, savour your last day. It's a very special one and can be very emotional. Savour every minute and every step. Buen Camino!

 

[HBS60]

You’re almost there my friend. I arrived today, and while I was glad to be done, I took extra time to savor my last day on the Camino. Enjoy it.

Are you going to hang out for a few days? I arrive on Sunday,, would be great to see you if possible!

 

[RJE]

Are you going to hang out for a few days? I arrive on Sunday,, would be great to see you if possible!

Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately off to Madrid this morning for a few days there.

 

[dbier]

So happy for you, Hectór!

(BTW...I've cried when I hear the bagpipes. Don't be alarmed by any emotion you feel on the Plaza (even if it's only fatigue). Sorting/processing may come later.

Adelante!

 

[HBS60]

Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately off to Madrid this morning for a few days there.

I figured, but it would have been great. Congratulations on your successful Camino completion!

 

[HBS60]

So happy for you, Hectór!

(BTW...I've cried when I hear the bagpipes. Don't be alarmed by any emotion you feel on the Plaza (even if it's only fatigue). Sorting/processing may come later.

Adelante!

I’m crying just thinking about it!

 

[jungleboy]

Pilgrim House in Santiago is a quiet, friendly space where you can reflect on your camino with others or by yourself, try to figure out what it all means, think about how to 'take the camino home' etc. I would definitely recommend a visit for you considering your journey.

 

[dbier]

Also, in the Pilgrim's Office...

...downstairs has a daily Mass.

...upstairs has several rooms manned by different language- speaking volunteers. Not all the same hours, but I've decompressed there with lovely Irish volunteers in the English speaking room.

 

[SabsP]

First floor. Room 6. Oficina de Peregrinos. Camino Companions for English welcome.

Camino Companions - Faithful Companions of Jesus

Camino Companions is an FCJ project in Santiago de Compostela to offer pilgrims a space to articulate and find meaning at the end of their Camino.

www.fcjsisters.org

Between 9.30 am and 6 pm. All days except Sunday.

 

[HBS60]

Calle-O Outero to Lavacolla-14.1 miles 22.69 Km

It rained last night but not when I woke up. It was still dark, of course, and there was some fog so I lingered until there was a hint of daylight, which these days is around 8 AM. Some other Pilgrims had already left, some stayed behind so I was on my own. My Albergue was off the Camino and I had a little trouble finding it in the dim light, as those little yellow arrows are hard to see in the darkness, and my app wasn’t much help.

Then I came upon what looked like a huge puddle of rainwater, and I sighed as I didn’t want to get my feet wet this early, because wet feet leads to blisters. Upon closer look, it was a pond of some sort with a flat concrete bridge over it. Even though it was a continuous flat concrete bridge, I hesitated, fearing losing my balance, and I was completely alone. Taking my time, I successfully crossed the bridge, but when I get home, I need to pursue an exercise program that can help me with my balance and flexibility. I wonder if I’m relying on my poles too much, but since I’m almost done, I’ll continue to use them.

It started to rain as I knew it would, but the light rain seemed appropriate for my last full day of the Camino, as if it was a cleansing rite of passage as I walked through the Galician forest. Being that I’m an amateur musician (classical piano), the melody of Enrique Granados’ Danza Gallega (Galician Dance) was playing in my head. It’s a lesser known piece for piano and cello, and rightly or wrongly I associate it with the bagpipe music that commonly greets pilgrims when they arrive at Praza Do Obradoiro. It does have a Celtic quality appropriate to the region. (I’ll link to it at the end of this post).

As usual, there was no breakfast available at my Albergue, so I had to go two towns until I found something open, but it was good. For some reason, it’s been a bit harder to find a Tortilla de Patatas since I’ve walked through Galicia. I also noticed lots of Galego being spoken, with the locals struggling with Spanish. There’s a lot of history of regions in Spain having their local languages suppressed, so it’s great that those languages are now flourishing. I wish I could speak them but at least there is enough commonality that we can communicate.

I resumed my walk, taking pics of curious things like a garden with a miniature Horreo that I would love to replicate in my backyard, messages scrawled in graffiti, murals, and of course distance markers with dwindling numbers.

The rain eventually stopped and I got to O Pedrouzo, where I had a ham and cheese bocadillo lunch. I didn’t get to see the town because it’s off the trail and I wanted to get to my hotel before the afternoon storms hit.

In my way, I saw several pilgrims headed the other way, because they missed the town. I continued on and an Australian older gentleman joined me. He was very friendly and devout Christian, very sincere in becoming a better person through his faith. We talked quite a bit but we were going up a very steep hill, and I couldn’t keep up, so he went ahead.

Close to the top of the hill were 3 ladies, one from California, two from different parts of Canada. We walked together for a little while, and we heard the sounds of an airplane taking off. We were across the highway from the Santiago airport. I never saw the plane but was able to see the runway, I just missed seeing the plane.

At the top of the hill was a Mexican man with a little stand, selling trinkets, doing elaborate stamps with I believe wax using a mini blowtorch or something to that effect, and sodas. He didn’t have Aquarius so I had a Pepsi 0,0 as I was very thirsty from the exertion and heavy breathing climbing that hill. I hope that’s the last difficult hill of my Camino.

The rest of the trail was an easy downhill. I came upon a stone marker for Santiago, although we are still 10 Km away. As I keep walking, a British older man joins me, and he is very curious about US politics since I live in FL. I try to answer his questions as honestly and diplomatically as I can, which essentially boils down to “it’s complicated”

He moved on when we got to a minor batch of rocky terrain and I needed to slow down. He wasn’t that far ahead, and he introduced me to a Dominican woman that had walked something like 40 Km (from Arzúa if I remember correctly), and has had trouble finding an Albergue. We talked for quite a while, but we were already at my destination town, Lavacolla, and I couldn’t find my hotel. I asked a local, and he said I missed it waaay back so I needed to backtrack. Arrrgh! So I bid the Dominican woman farewell and walked back almost a Km to find my hotel. The sun was actually out with no apparent sign of imminent rain.

I checked in and got to my very nice private room, and soaked in the tub feeling every muscle enjoying the hot water. Then I went down for dinner, and watched a heavy downpour, grateful that I had avoided it.

I’m now chilling in my hotel room, trying to sort out my feelings since tomorrow I’ll actually walk into Santiago. The enormity of this experience is difficult to process, and I will need time for my subconscious to absorb and come to terms with everything that has transpired. All throughout this experience I’ve been very emotional, crying silently as I’ve walked, but not completely understanding why, as it hasn’t been about sadness, pain, or hurt. What keeps playing in my head is that “I’m actually doing this!” and it’s an overwhelming feeling.

I have been gifted with so much kindness, helpfulness, and friendship that I wish I could reciprocate in kind.

I’m also missing so many people I’ve met along the way, some of them have been back home for a while as they were only doing partial segments of the Camino, but I wonder if I’ll run into anybody I’ve met when I reach Santiago.

The lesson here that I think I need to get through my thick skull is that, given the kindness I’ve been so freely given, I’m not as unworthy as I’ve always believed (it’s a long story as to why I’ve felt this way). Moreover, I got plenty of people back home that care about me and I need to learn that I deserve the love that’s been sent my way.

Accomplishing this Camino is a great confidence booster, because I now know I can face challenges and deal with them. It is a real, down to earth, organic experience, not a theoretical abstract idea but a full mind, body, and spirit experience, because I’ve been not just in my head, but truly alive.

Tomorrow I will walk the final 10 Km, enter the Praza Do Obradoiro as I hear (I hope) the bagpipes greeting me, and I can say: “I did it!”

I expect to weep copiously

But that will be tomorrow. Tonight I need to rest. Thanks to all for the eonder, supportive comments! I’m most grateful!

FB link for pics:https://www.facebook.com/share/p/SYJTY3FPUr3mdJSR/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Here’s the You Tube of the Spanish-Catalán composer Enrique Granados’ Danza Gallega:

 

[HBS60]

Question: I’ve read about advance registration with a QR code, but the pages I’ve visited only say to go to a specific place to get a turn. I thought I could register online and download the QR code, but can’t find the place. Somewhere I’ve read the QR code is in my credential, but nope, I can’t find it in either of my two credentials. (Maybe I’m too tired). Since I expect to arrive before noon, I’m sure I’ll have plenty of time, unless there are already hordes of Pilgrims at that hour
Where can I register online and download a QR code? Thanks!

 

[J Willhaus]

Registro individual | Oficina del Peregrino. Santiago de Compostela

oficinadelperegrino.com

Here you go.

 

[dbier]

"I checked in and got to my very nice private room, and soaked in the tub feeling every muscle enjoying the hot water."

I read this part of your post to my husband, and he smiled and said, " Your brother by another mother."

I had to get to Santiago to get a bath...shower all the way.

Link is below

Sigle Register | Pilgrim's welcome office

oficinadelperegrino.com

 

[HBS60]

Registro individual | Oficina del Peregrino. Santiago de Compostela

oficinadelperegrino.com

Here you go.

Thanks! And done! I don’t know why I couldn’t find it, I recall seeing this 2 months ago. Anyway, I got it done!

 

[bestfootforward]

You've been on a remarkable journey Hector. Rest up. Tomorrow's a big day and we'll all be walking with you. Buen Camino!

 

[ScouseKeith]

Question: I’ve read about advance registration with a QR code, but the pages I’ve visited only say to go to a specific place to get a turn. I thought I could register online and download the QR code, but can’t find the place. Somewhere I’ve read the QR code is in my credential, but nope, I can’t find it in either of my two credentials. (Maybe I’m too tired). Since I expect to arrive before noon, I’m sure I’ll have plenty of time, unless there are already hordes of Pilgrims at that hour
Where can I register online and download a QR code? Thanks!

Hi Héctor
You don’t need to download anything. In the registration office there are a couple of like ATM machines you just enter the information from your travel passport and a few other questions and it prints you a number ticket to queue with to receive your Compostella.
Well done pilgrim, you battled against adversity and came through it all and tomorrow go inside the cathedral and take a pew and just take a few mins of reflection you’ve earned it. Well done. Buen Camino. Keith

 

[VNwalking]

All throughout this experience I’ve been very emotional, crying silently as I’ve walked, but not completely understanding why, as it hasn’t been about sadness, pain, or hurt. What keeps playing in my head is that “I’m actually doing this!” and it’s an overwhelming feeling.

It's called joy and gratitude.
It's so perfect that you can walk a short day tomorrow, 'only' 10km, to just let it all in.

You've been on a remarkable journey Hector. Rest up. Tomorrow's a big day and we'll all be walking with you. Buen Camino!

Exactly.
Buen camino, peregrino!

 

[Kirkie]

It's called joy and gratitude.
It's so perfect that you can walk a short day tomorrow, 'only' 10km, to just let it all in.


Exactly.
Buen camino, peregrino!

To just let it all in. And then some. Almost 20 years later, I can recall many moments. And moments are wonderful teachers.
While this is a reply to another forum member, I would like to say: Hector, chapeau!

 

[HBS60]

I made it!!!

 

[bestfootforward]

Legend!!!!!!!! Hector, you achieved your goal....and so much more, not only for yourself, but for those you walked for. Take it all in. Be proud. Be very proud. High5 you!!!!