- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Ingles (Sept'24), Camino Portugues (May'22)
There is something special about cities waking up. Double special if that city is Santiago de Compostela.
Around 6:30am I saw people walking to work, a family of 4 sightseeing and taking pictures already (they were probably jet lagged) and about half a dozen peregrinos making their way to Praza do Obradoiro.
I stopped at the Praza to look at the cathedral and said a quick prayer, to say thanks and ask for strength on this walk.
It's really impressive how you can walk 10 minutes west of the Catedral de Santiago and be out in the countryside.
First time I used my hiking light. I also wrapped my backpack on a bright yellow rainproof shell. Does it help? I don't know, but it makes me feel better.
Dirt path. There is a really strong smell from eucalyptus after the first hill. That smell combined with the fog rolling in at 55 degrees makes you feel like you are walking through the biggest diffuser in the world. Intoxicating.
Switched to road walking. There seems to be lots of road walking in this etapa. 99% of the time I walk on the left side of the road, so I can see cars as they approach me. Of course, there is the 1% when only a little bit of sidewalk is on the right side of the road.
I heard a car and didn't stop walking (my mistake) it almost clipped me from behind I was fine, just a bit shook up. I thanked my lucky stars and remembered the advice to STOP walking when you hear a car and get as far away from the road as possible. No incidents since.
If you walk this way, do yourself a favor and get a coffee and a bocadillo at Os Arcos. I almost missed it since it's 20 meters from the camino, but it helped me so much.
Also, stop at Casa Pancho. Warmest welcome I've had at a bar in Spain. The owner is so kind and loves pilgrims. You can tell he's walked it many, many times.
The pilgrims walking seem friendly enough. LOTS of Buen Caminos from pilgrims and locals. Counted at least 25 pilgrims going to Fisterre. Chinese, Brazilians, Argentines, couple Brits, A few Spaniards, a few Portuguese.
Saw a HUGE group of Argentines at Agua Pesada (at least 30) walking back into Santiago. They looked like a church group. They were blasting out loud Cumbia Villera I'll let you google it.
The Agua Pesada climb is tough, but there are plenty of places to stop at to rest and catch your breath.
Ponte Maceira made me feel like I was in the middle ages. Pictures don't do it justice. Next time I'll plan to stay there.
Staying at Albergue Cotón in Negreira. First Spanish town that I see that doesn't have a lively central plaza. Seems like a place you go through, not so much a place to "hang out" at. No complaints, just noticing things.
The Albergue is fantastic. It looks full. I was the first one to arrive at 1:30pm or so. Love those individual bathrooms with toilet/sink/shower combos. They also have paid washers and dryers and throw in detergent for free.
Staff was very adamant saying that this town has the last full supermarket for a while so I made some bocadillos de tortilla for breakfast and for later.
There is a large group (8 or so) of pilgrims with mobility issues staying at the hostel. Folks with walkers and wheelchairs. I love seeing this so much. I find it incredibly inspiring.
Off to Lago tomorrow. Thank you for reading this far.
Around 6:30am I saw people walking to work, a family of 4 sightseeing and taking pictures already (they were probably jet lagged) and about half a dozen peregrinos making their way to Praza do Obradoiro.
I stopped at the Praza to look at the cathedral and said a quick prayer, to say thanks and ask for strength on this walk.
It's really impressive how you can walk 10 minutes west of the Catedral de Santiago and be out in the countryside.
First time I used my hiking light. I also wrapped my backpack on a bright yellow rainproof shell. Does it help? I don't know, but it makes me feel better.
Dirt path. There is a really strong smell from eucalyptus after the first hill. That smell combined with the fog rolling in at 55 degrees makes you feel like you are walking through the biggest diffuser in the world. Intoxicating.
Switched to road walking. There seems to be lots of road walking in this etapa. 99% of the time I walk on the left side of the road, so I can see cars as they approach me. Of course, there is the 1% when only a little bit of sidewalk is on the right side of the road.
I heard a car and didn't stop walking (my mistake) it almost clipped me from behind I was fine, just a bit shook up. I thanked my lucky stars and remembered the advice to STOP walking when you hear a car and get as far away from the road as possible. No incidents since.
If you walk this way, do yourself a favor and get a coffee and a bocadillo at Os Arcos. I almost missed it since it's 20 meters from the camino, but it helped me so much.
Also, stop at Casa Pancho. Warmest welcome I've had at a bar in Spain. The owner is so kind and loves pilgrims. You can tell he's walked it many, many times.
The pilgrims walking seem friendly enough. LOTS of Buen Caminos from pilgrims and locals. Counted at least 25 pilgrims going to Fisterre. Chinese, Brazilians, Argentines, couple Brits, A few Spaniards, a few Portuguese.
Saw a HUGE group of Argentines at Agua Pesada (at least 30) walking back into Santiago. They looked like a church group. They were blasting out loud Cumbia Villera I'll let you google it.
The Agua Pesada climb is tough, but there are plenty of places to stop at to rest and catch your breath.
Ponte Maceira made me feel like I was in the middle ages. Pictures don't do it justice. Next time I'll plan to stay there.
Staying at Albergue Cotón in Negreira. First Spanish town that I see that doesn't have a lively central plaza. Seems like a place you go through, not so much a place to "hang out" at. No complaints, just noticing things.
The Albergue is fantastic. It looks full. I was the first one to arrive at 1:30pm or so. Love those individual bathrooms with toilet/sink/shower combos. They also have paid washers and dryers and throw in detergent for free.
Staff was very adamant saying that this town has the last full supermarket for a while so I made some bocadillos de tortilla for breakfast and for later.
There is a large group (8 or so) of pilgrims with mobility issues staying at the hostel. Folks with walkers and wheelchairs. I love seeing this so much. I find it incredibly inspiring.
Off to Lago tomorrow. Thank you for reading this far.