LIVE from the Camino Héctor Walks His Way-week 4

[HBS60]

I can’t believe I’m just starting my 4th week on the Camino!

Frómista to Carrión de los Condes, 12.5 miles, 20.11 Km.

A rather uneventful day, which I don’t mind after yesterday’s intense day. Every morning, we scramble to get ready to leave the albergue, which for me is complicated due to my cPAP machine. A bunch of them left very early , and a little group was with me at first. There was the usual confusion trying to find the yellow arrows, but finally I was on my way. My companions moved on, leaving me behind, but the route was clear, and I knew there would be other pilgrims catching up with me. The trail was a gravel one, dry smooth and flat, my only annoyance was stepping into puddles from the rain yesterday. I couldn’t see them, even with my headlamp, so I got my feet wet a few times.

Daybreak eventually came. It was another beautiful sunrise, the air was cool, and thankfully there were no mountains to climb. Just 3.3 Km away, I found an open bar where I could have my coffee and croissant. I continued on, and the trail gave two choices, the straight-line, borring one, or the more pleasant, panoramic one by the river. I got on the boring one because it seemed shorter on the maps. I wasn’t willing to walk any longer than I had to.

There were towns every few kilometers, which was nice, and I came upon an albergue that had a nice patio and offered some food. They also had a piano, but unfortunately it was horribly out of tune, besides after 3 weeks of not playing, my fingers wouldn’t cooperate.

I moved on, but there’s not much to say. The trail was a straight path next to a highway the entire time. There was a very gentle slope upwards, but I didn’t really feel it until the end.

Finally I reached Carrion De Los Condes, limping a little because I was again having blisters. I took care of them, finally made my way to the albergue. The nun was very warm and enthusiastic making me feel welcome. The usual routine of showering, finding a place for lunch, laundry, took most of the afternoon.

Unfortunately, because it’s Sunday, the little stores where I stock up on items for my walk, like sodas, closed early before I could get to them. This was a problem because tomorrow, upon leaving this town, there is a very long stretch (17 Km) with nothing, so I want to have at least an Aquarius and/or Voke if I run out of water. Luckily, I found a restaurant where I got two sodas to go, but they thought it was to my room (I wasn’t staying there), so they brought them to me poured in glasses. When I explained that I needed them for the Camino, they poured them in plastic bottles. Not ideal, but it will be OK

Tonight we have a community dinner, then tomorrow the recommended walk is a long walk, to Terradillos de Los Templarios, a good 26.3 Km away. I’ve decided to not walk so far, to Ledigos, 23.3 Km, and that’s pushing it.

I’m entering today my fourth Camino week, and while I’m amazed at show much I’ve accomplished, I’m getting weary, maybe a little burned out? I try to keep in mind that nobody forced me to do this, and to remember those for whom I walk.

FB link for pics

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

 

[MelMc]

I can’t believe I’m just starting my 4th week on the Camino!

Frómista to Carrión de los Condes, 12.5 miles, 20.11 Km.

A rather uneventful day, which I don’t mind after yesterday’s intense day. Every morning, we scramble to get ready to leave the albergue, which for me is complicated due to my cPAP machine. A bunch of them left very early , and a little group was with me at first. There was the usual confusion trying to find the yellow arrows, but finally I was on my way. My companions moved on, leaving me behind, but the route was clear, and I knew there would be other pilgrims catching up with me. The trail was a gravel one, dry smooth and flat, my only annoyance was stepping into puddles from the rain yesterday. I couldn’t see them, even with my headlamp, so I got my feet wet a few times.

Daybreak eventually came. It was another beautiful sunrise, the air was cool, and thankfully there were no mountains to climb. Just 3.3 Km away, I found an open bar where I could have my coffee and croissant. I continued on, and the trail gave two choices, the straight-line, borring one, or the more pleasant, panoramic one by the river. I got on the boring one because it seemed shorter on the maps. I wasn’t willing to walk any longer than I had to.

There were towns every few kilometers, which was nice, and I came upon an albergue that had a nice patio and offered some food. They also had a piano, but unfortunately it was horribly out of tune, besides after 3 weeks of not playing, my fingers wouldn’t cooperate.

I moved on, but there’s not much to say. The trail was a straight path next to a highway the entire time. There was a very gentle slope upwards, but I didn’t really feel it until the end.

Finally I reached Carrion De Los Condes, limping a little because I was again having blisters. I took care of them, finally made my way to the albergue. The nun was very warm and enthusiastic making me feel welcome. The usual routine of showering, finding a place for lunch, laundry, took most of the afternoon.

Unfortunately, because it’s Sunday, the little stores where I stock up on items for my walk, like sodas, closed early before I could get to them. This was a problem because tomorrow, upon leaving this town, there is a very long stretch (17 Km) with nothing, so I want to have at least an Aquarius and/or Voke if I run out of water. Luckily, I found a restaurant where I got two sodas to go, but they thought it was to my room (I wasn’t staying there), so they brought them to me poured in glasses. When I explained that I needed them for the Camino, they poured them in plastic bottles. Not ideal, but it will be OK

Tonight we have a community dinner, then tomorrow the recommended walk is a long walk, to Terradillos de Los Templarios, a good 26.3 Km away. I’ve decided to not walk so far, to Ledigos, 23.3 Km, and that’s pushing it.

I’m entering today my fourth Camino week, and while I’m amazed at show much I’ve accomplished, I’m getting weary, maybe a little burned out? I try to keep in mind that nobody forced me to do this, and to remember those for whom I walk.

FB link for pics

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

You my friend are a inspiration, keep going you warrior

 

[J Willhaus]

Are you at the Santa Maria? Always singing there in the afternoon when the sisters are there.

 

[HBS60]

Are you at the Santa Maria? Always singing there in the afternoon when the sisters are there.

I’m at the Espíritu Santo. Nice facility!

 

[BarbaraW]

I remember that stretch you're doing tomorrow. Big skies. There's sometimes a refreshment truck about half way along. And there are albergues at Calzadilla de la Cueza, which is around 18k from Carrion de los Condes, if you are feeling tired. But I think you are aiming for the Cruz de Ferro on a particular date? So perhaps don't feel that you can be so flexible.
Enjoy a good rest tonight, and I hope tomorrow goes well for you.

 

[HBS60]

I remember that stretch you're doing tomorrow. Big skies. There's sometimes a refreshment truck about half way along. And there are albergues at Calzadilla de la Cueza, which is around 18k from Carrion de los Condes, if you are feeling tired. But I think you are aiming for the Cruz de Ferro on a particular date? So perhaps don't feel that you can be so flexible.
Enjoy a good rest tonight, and I hope tomorrow goes well for you.

Yes, my plan has been to be at Cruz de Ferro on September 11. I’ve been looking at the various distances, trying to figure out how to break up the various segments, hopefully with some flexibility. I believe that from Astorga to Foncebadon might be a steep climb, so I might need to account for that. I might arrive at Foncebadon on the 10th, so I can be at Cruz de Ferro on the morning of the 11th. I think I can be at Leon on the 6th, so I’m trying to figure out the remaining segment. I will recalibrate as needed.

 

[Simperegrina]

Hector, there will hopefully be a food truck about 8km after leaving Carrion. No guarantees, of course, but look out for it, on the right hand side of the Camino, set back a little from the path.

In Ledigos, I expect you’re staying atLa Morena. Great albergue, with a nice little garden with deckchairs etc, and a restaurant and bar.

 

[BarbaraW]

Hector, I've just gone back to my diary for 2022 when I walked this stretch. From Calzadilla de la Cueza, my stops, all around 20 k or a bit less, were Sahagun, El Burgo Ranero, Mansilla de las Mulas, Leon, Villar de Mazarife, Santibanez, Murias de Rechivaldo, Foncedabon - 8 days.

I managed this because I took the bus from Mansilla to Leon, and then the following morning from Leon to La Virgen del Camino. My diary records "Our guidebook [Brierley] had suggested that people might feel constrained in taking a bus through the boring suburbs of Leon because they had some pride in walking every step of the way to Santiago. He suggested that this was not a good thing. Keen to avoid the sin of pride, I took the bus".

If you do stop in Sahagun, I recommend the Santa Cruz albergue, immaculate, run by welcoming Marist brothers and with a communal meal and breakfast.

 

[BarbaraW]

And at Sahagun you can celebrate having walked halfway to Santiago!!

 

[Anhalter]

Yes, my plan has been to be at Cruz de Ferro on September 11. I’ve been looking at the various distances, trying to figure out how to break up the various segments, hopefully with some flexibility. I believe that from Astorga to Foncebadon might be a steep climb, so I might need to account for that. I might arrive at Foncebadon on the 10th, so I can be at Cruz de Ferro on the morning of the 11th. I think I can be at Leon on the 6th, so I’m trying to figure out the remaining segment. I will recalibrate as needed.

So it seems you have 9 days to make it to Foncebadon. It is 172km. That makes a daily average of 19.1km. From your reports up until now, i think that should be possible. It gets a bit more tricky if you want to do a rest day in Leon, then you need to average 21.5km a day.
I'd recommend to just walk till Leon and see and decide there what to do and how things went.

The ascent to Foncebadon is a bit tedious, but not the worst on the C.Frances. The descent afterwards till Molinaseca is actually worse.

I just want to put this idea out there: It is also an option to walk to the Cruz de Fierro for dusk. Its about a half hour walk from Foncebadon. So if you run short of time, this might be a last minute option. But maybe dont stay at an albergue in that case.

edit: also recommend the Santa Cruz in Sahagun. And the Taberna Gaia in Foncebadon had great food when i stopped there.

 

[jungleboy]

There was the usual confusion trying to find the yellow arrows, but finally I was on my way.

One thing that some pilgrims like to do to avoid this problem (time/energy permitting) is to anticipate the next morning's village/town exit the afternoon before by trying to find and follow the arrows from their accommodation to a point where the trail becomes more obvious. Then the next morning if it's dark, you're not fully awake yet etc, you've already traced the first part of the path out, so it will be easier to find.

Buen camino, I hope this adventure is all you had hoped it would be!

 

[Camo]

and to remember those for whom I walk.

Hector, I think this is the first time you have mentioned "walking for others" so I hope such thoughts add to your resolve on the hard stretches ahead

 

[dougfitz]

Yes, my plan has been to be at Cruz de Ferro on September 11. I’ve been looking at the various distances, trying to figure out how to break up the various segments, hopefully with some flexibility. I believe that from Astorga to Foncebadon might be a steep climb, so I might need to account for that. I might arrive at Foncebadon on the 10th, so I can be at Cruz de Ferro on the morning of the 11th. I think I can be at Leon on the 6th, so I’m trying to figure out the remaining segment. I will recalibrate as needed.

My recollection of this stage is that it is a relatively gentle slope, so perhaps under 8%, until a few km past El Ganzo, when it then gets steeper going into Rabanal, but it is still on or close to a road. So perhaps up to there is is going to be a maximum of about 10%. After that, it got steeper again going into Foncebadon, but I recall it being a consistent climb. I did a quick check of a gpx track for that, and it didn't exceed 12% for that last 6km into Foncebadon.

edit: and as others have warned you, the descent the next day is steep, and rocky. Take care.

 

[J Willhaus]

We like to stay in El Ganzo. Then when you get to Cruz de Fero there are fewer people about to mess up your experience and believe me, it can be messed up. Tour buses, large groups, just other pilgrims can make the visit very unpleasant. You can walk back to stay at Foncebadon so you are fresh the next day for the difficult descent to Molinaseca.

 

[Camo]

There was the usual confusion trying to find the yellow arrows, but finally I was on my way.

Yes my own route (in Google Maps) continues to follow yours almost exactly except the little "jiggle" that shows up on your Relive video at the start which added 1.1 km to your walk and same as yesterday you have continued to walk at 66% (including stops) of the non stop google person.

And at the risk of being howled down may I suggest for these tricky parts in a village to simply use google maps and insert your destination for the day (or a town along the way) and the line it draws should be your Camino path (but check it and twiddle if needed) and then even in the dark the nice lady will lead you all the way out of the village

 

[CWBuff]

Hector
I will repeat something I said much earlier on when you just started
1. You are doing fine and more than fine. The fact that you are on Week 4 speaks for itself.
2. You are still (somewhat stubbornly) not taking proper care if your food. The previous post had something to the fact of " I had snacks in my backpack but couldn't get to them" and " I finally relented and had a Coke".
You NEED to take care of yourself!!! When I walked some bean counter told me we were burning on the average 4,200 calories a day. I don't want to start a highjack thread on this side issue but let's say it's a lot. You need to replenish else you lose energy and feel very tired when you come to your albergue.
3. You still expect to find some place where you can get food at 4pm. ChAnces are slim to none it will happen....

You increased your daily distance to average over 20 km with some instances pushing to 25. Please do take proper breaks to give yourself a rest and eat something ( if no eatery is available do stop ang get your snacks from your backpack)
Hope the dreaded 17km goes well; BTW I heard that there is a food truck somewhere in the middle of that stage.
Good luck and Buen Camino

 

[trecile]

Hope the dreaded 17km goes well; BTW I heard that there is a food truck somewhere in the middle of that stage.

Not just a truck, but a rather (semi?) permanent structure.

 

[VNwalking]

I’m getting weary, maybe a little burned out?

The meseta can wear on people, nothing dramatic, just the feeling of relentlesness. If that's the case, perseverance is the antidote.

If it's energy...
Food, important, not to be underestimated.
I always have nuts and dried fruit in my front pack or hipbelt pocket where I can easily get to them. For when the energy drops, as it can. Salted nuts are good for electrolyte balance, too.

 

[Kirkie]

I always knew, without a watch, when the half hour had elapsed. Water. also, at the two hour mark, stop, socks and shoes off, ten minute break, nuts, biscuit, plain, with a tiny cheese, maybe a date or a fig...and no lingering, onwards and upwards!

 

[CWBuff]

Not just a truck, but a rather (semi?) permanent structure.

View attachment 177071

Ahhh! Better yet!!!

Re: Hectors water intake. In his "week 1" post he insisted he was drinking plenty so I don't know....
However that "I relented" statement above coupled with the statement about getting blisters has me worried that it's being neglected just as the food is. Perhaps Hectors perception of "enough" is in reality not enough.... I had my own private debriefing (if you will) session after my walk and I'm firmly convinced that my own blisters were a direct result of me not drinking enough water..

I always knew, without a watch, when the half hour had elapsed. Water. also, at the two hour mark, stop, socks and shoes off, ten minute break, nuts, biscuit, plain, with a tiny cheese, maybe a date or a fig...and no lingering, onwards and upwards!

I LOVE the summary of that! Each part is important. Not only one gives the body a proper rest time but taking shoes and socks off greatly reduces the wetness/moisture of the "main walking apparatus " as well as swellness...

 

[dimdog]

I can’t believe I’m just starting my 4th week on the Camino!

Frómista to Carrión de los Condes, 12.5 miles, 20.11 Km.

A rather uneventful day, which I don’t mind after yesterday’s intense day. Every morning, we scramble to get ready to leave the albergue, which for me is complicated due to my cPAP machine. A bunch of them left very early , and a little group was with me at first. There was the usual confusion trying to find the yellow arrows, but finally I was on my way. My companions moved on, leaving me behind, but the route was clear, and I knew there would be other pilgrims catching up with me. The trail was a gravel one, dry smooth and flat, my only annoyance was stepping into puddles from the rain yesterday. I couldn’t see them, even with my headlamp, so I got my feet wet a few times.

Daybreak eventually came. It was another beautiful sunrise, the air was cool, and thankfully there were no mountains to climb. Just 3.3 Km away, I found an open bar where I could have my coffee and croissant. I continued on, and the trail gave two choices, the straight-line, borring one, or the more pleasant, panoramic one by the river. I got on the boring one because it seemed shorter on the maps. I wasn’t willing to walk any longer than I had to.

There were towns every few kilometers, which was nice, and I came upon an albergue that had a nice patio and offered some food. They also had a piano, but unfortunately it was horribly out of tune, besides after 3 weeks of not playing, my fingers wouldn’t cooperate.

I moved on, but there’s not much to say. The trail was a straight path next to a highway the entire time. There was a very gentle slope upwards, but I didn’t really feel it until the end.

Finally I reached Carrion De Los Condes, limping a little because I was again having blisters. I took care of them, finally made my way to the albergue. The nun was very warm and enthusiastic making me feel welcome. The usual routine of showering, finding a place for lunch, laundry, took most of the afternoon.

Unfortunately, because it’s Sunday, the little stores where I stock up on items for my walk, like sodas, closed early before I could get to them. This was a problem because tomorrow, upon leaving this town, there is a very long stretch (17 Km) with nothing, so I want to have at least an Aquarius and/or Voke if I run out of water. Luckily, I found a restaurant where I got two sodas to go, but they thought it was to my room (I wasn’t staying there), so they brought them to me poured in glasses. When I explained that I needed them for the Camino, they poured them in plastic bottles. Not ideal, but it will be OK

Tonight we have a community dinner, then tomorrow the recommended walk is a long walk, to Terradillos de Los Templarios, a good 26.3 Km away. I’ve decided to not walk so far, to Ledigos, 23.3 Km, and that’s pushing it.

I’m entering today my fourth Camino week, and while I’m amazed at show much I’ve accomplished, I’m getting weary, maybe a little burned out? I try to keep in mind that nobody forced me to do this, and to remember those for whom I walk.

FB link for pics

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

Hi, well done on getting to week 4, I'm on the Ingles at the moment, this is my 3rd camino, (CF & CdN), when I was feeling done in, I used to recite a poem I once heard, " we are the pilgrims master, & we shall go always a little further"......worked for me
Buen camino

 

[basquelady]

My recollection of this stage is that it is a relatively gentle slope, so perhaps under 8%, until a few km past El Ganzo, when it then gets steeper going into Rabanal, but it is still on or close to a road. So perhaps up to there is is going to be a maximum of about 10%. After that, it got steeper again going into Foncebadon, but I recall it being a consistent climb. I did a quick check of a gpx track for that, and it didn't exceed 12% for that last 6km into Foncebadon.

edit: and as others have warned you, the descent the next day is steep, and rocky. Take care.

Although the track going to Rabanal is not steep, part of it has been hacked out from the adjoining wood. My husband tripped on a tree root on our first camino in 2013, hitting his head on a rock, on the way down. Messy business. However, as we limped into Rabanal, Isabel, owner of Alb Nuestra Sra del Pilar, took charge, installing him in a room in her home, I think. Her friend, Monse, later drove us back to Astorga health centre, where John was stitched up. Yet another evidence of the kindness we have experienced on the camino. BUT--- watch out for those roots!.

 

[HBS60]

Re: Hectors water intake. In his "week 1" post he insisted he was drinking plenty so I don't know....
However that "I relented" statement above coupled with the statement about getting blisters has me worried that it's being neglected just as the food is. Perhaps Hectors perception of "enough" is in reality not enough.... I had my own private debriefing (if you will) session after my walk and I'm firmly convinced that my own blisters were a direct result of me not drinking enough water..

Ahh, so many things to consider!

I’m still trying to get a handle on so many things, for example,

When I’m out there walking, I always have my full water bottle plus a can of Aquarius and a can of coke as a backup. I tend to ration it when I know I have a long stretch again, and from my experience I know I can’t count on anything being open or finding a fountain. I fear drinking up everything too soon and then having to walk in the heat for long distances not finding anything (it’s happened before). On the other hand, I could try carrying even more water but that adds to my weight, which would overload me even more (remember my cPAP machine. It seems I also sweat very profusely, and that doesn’t help.

Besides my water intake, my shoes are definitely a problem. They feel tighter than when I bought them, so I might need to get new ones, maybe in León.

As for nutrition, I try to be mindful of it, but if the store is closed when I get to a town, I don’t know how to get what I need. The town I’m in tonight has no store, the albergue which is also a bar restaurant can sell me a few things, but their choices are limited. In a bigger town, I can get more things, but I’ll then carry more weight.

I will start using the luggage transport service off and on for the cPAP, maybe that might help with the overload problem.

It’s a learning curve, and I’m trying to get a handle on all this.

 

[Getwood]

[snip]

I will start using the luggage transport service off and on for the cPAP, maybe that might help with the overload problem.

There's no shame in using that service, and I think having alternate transpo for that machine would make a HUGE difference to your walking and enjoyment thereof. In fact, it's the same price for transporting everything, so mebbe give yourself a break for a few days, just carrying whatever you need for the day's walk?

 

[JabbaPapa]

I believe that from Astorga to Foncebadon might be a steep climb

It's not too bad - - it's the descent after Cruz de Ferro that you need to watch out for !!

Maybe consider the tarmac until El Acebo ?

 

[BarbaraW]

It takes a while to get a handle on the Spanish timetable. It sounds as if you really like to eat around 5 pm, which is about the most difficult time of all. I always find it hard to adjust to Spain. But managed to get to the stage when a couple of biscuits for breakfast and a bag of peanuts were fine for a 15 k stretch when both expected bars were closed. No coffee, only water.
Remember that today will have been the longest stretch without services. And normally if you buy food or drink at a bar it's fine to ask them to fill up a water bottle if there's nowhere else. I often just fill up from the bathroom tap, so as not to bother busy staff, though more fastidious members may not recommend it!
Looking forward to your daily diary later.

 

[HBS60]

Copied and pasted from my FB post:

Carrión de los Condes to Ledigos
15 miles 24.14 Km.

I started my walk even earlier than usual at 5:30 AM because I knew the first 10 miles (17 Km) would be through a stretch that had absolutely no services, no cafes, no bars, no towns. Unfortunately, I got to Carrion yesterday on a Sunday, and by the time I got settled in, showered, and changed, the only open food store on Sunday had closed. Since I left so early, nothing was open. I did have a leftover cupcake and a package of cookies, and I managed to get a restaurant to sell me an Aquarius and a Coke bottle.

So I set out in the dark, there was another pilgrim ahead of me but he soon vanished in the dark. The trail was along a highway all the time, but it felt very scary, even though my headlamp was working perfectly. Soon enough, other pilgrims started to pass me in the darkness, many of them I already knew, and seeing their headlights in the distance was reassuring.

Slowly daylight was creeping in, and I managed to get pics of the sunrise, pics I’ll always treasure. But I was feeling hungry, weak, and my feet were bothering me, not a good thing so early on my day.

I managed to keep going, until I spied a makeshift rest area, so I stopped, took off my backpack, ate some cookies, and took more pics. A pilgrim passing by hold me there was coffee ahead, just a few meters away. So I put on my backpack and walked to a semi-permanent structure with a seating area, with several pilgrims around, so I thought hallelujah!

My joy was short lived because they had a problem with their electricity and there was no coffee, aaargh!!! They did have a coconut cake and I had a slice of that and a Coke. I know, less than ideal, don’t hate on me!
A couple of ladies insisted in giving me a cereal bar and an apple, which I gladly accepted and put in in my pack for later.

Feeling better, I resumed my walk, but my feet were bothering me, as I’ve forgotten about them. I trudged along the best I could. I saw in the distance a lady I’ve seen before and talked with a little. Something didn’t seem right with the way she walked, seemed unsteady. Eventually she got off the trail, and I saw she was laying on the seat of a concrete picnic table. I figured that she was ok so I sat on the other side of side, tending to my feet. The two ladies of the cereal bar then caught up with me, and they tried to help me by giving me an antiseptic cream, band-aids, and some suggestions. I thanked them as they left, then turned my attention to the lady lying down on the bench, to make sure she was OK. She wasn’t. She spoke Brazilian Portuguese so we had some trouble communicating, but it seemed to me she was struggling with low blood sugar. She told me she also had a Coke, but it didn’t work, what she really needed was coffee. I remembered the cereal bar, and offered it to her. She accepted only a little piece of it but would not take the entire bar. She ate the piece and felt better. At that point a friend of hers came by so I felt ok resuming my walk since she wasn’t alone.

It was a mercifully cool, cloudy day, and that helped tremendously. One big highlight was reaching the 400 Km marker to Santiago. At various points I’ve seen the numbers dwindle down from the 600s, after today I’ll start seeing 300s, yay! I did decide to try wearing my hiking sandals instead of my trail runners. I think it helped a little, but I really needed to stop walking, but I was still away from my destination.

After an endless stretch of straight road, I finally reached Calzadilla de La Cueza, where it seemed everyone I knew was there. It’s interesting to see how the group seems to reshuffle, I don’t see the same people every day, but I keep running into them every few days.

I finally had my Café con Leche, Tortilla de Patatas and orange juice. I ran again into the two ladies from this morning, a lady I met the day if the storm, and the Brazilian lady, now doing much better. We were all going to walk different places, the storm lady was staying in the current town, and the Brazilian lady was going much farther. She and I walked out of town, she told me this was her 5th Camino, and when I explained that I’m walking slow because of the weight of the cPAP machine, she offered to take my backpack to give me some relief. I politely declined, as that f****ng backpack is f****ng heavy (sorry, but no other words will do). Eventually she said she wanted to go ahead, because she wanted to get to her town before we got rain. She said she would pray for me and asjked I would do the same. Of course! She walked away, moving very agilely, unlike how she was in the morning. I hope I did some good for her today, just as the two ladies were good to me.

I only had 6.5 Km to go, it was only around noon, so I took it easy. The sun did perk out so I deployed my umbrella, but it got cloudy again. I found a good spot to sit and relax, watching pilgrims go by, some of them I knew, some of them not. I admired my pilgrim tan lines, drank my Coke and Aquarius from yesterday, because I was getting close.

Finally, I arrived at Ledigos , an extremely tiny village with not much going on as far as I could see. The exterior wasn’t encouraging, but they do have nice facilities and a nice yard with beautiful flowers. I showered, rested, will have a dinner here on my own since the place is so quiet (at least at the moment).

Tomorrow, I plan to walk only 16 Km to Sahagún, to keep my walking to a minimum. I also will try to get a distance certificate (not related to the Compostela) because it is considered the halfway point of the Camino Francés.

I can’t believe I’ve walked this far, and I hope I can keep it up. I’m trying to better learn how to meet my body’s needs, how to keep moving ahead without hurting myself. “The spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak”. How to walk the line between these two realities is the task I’m trying to learn, one day at a time, one step at a time…

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/eTFXqdsoTP6thQDM/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[Getwood]

You're an inspiration to me, Hector.

 

[HBS60]

Question: my big toes have been hurting on the pads, but I don’t see any blisters or lesion that could explain it.Any ideas on what it could be? I’m starting to wonder about stress fractures but never heard of that in the toes. I’m probably going to buy new shoes in León, but that’s a few days away. Any thoughts would be most appreciated
Thanks!

 

[dbier]

If you can tolerate hiking in your sandals and socks, does that reduce the soreness, or increase it?

My instinct is that you either need more padding up front at the toes or you're curling your big toes to fit in too small shoes). I sincerely doubt stress fractures...but I'm not a podiatrist, and I'm not there.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

My instinct is that you either need more padding up front at the toes or you're curling your big toes to fit in too small shoes

I concur.

But I'm no medical expert either. It might be worth consulting one if padding doesn't assist.

Hector, this is not a criticism rather an observation. Reading your posts over the last three weeks a lot of your snacks AND the food consumed during your breaks seem to be sweet rather than protein/fat based. (An extremely important combination when you're walking longer distances).
In addition to which you're carrying both Coke AND Aquarius. Personally I would swap one for additional water. Hydration is far more important than almost anything else, and you don't need the additional sugar. Short-term pick me ups are disasterous if not followed with something more substantial.

I fully understand cafine addicts needing their fix because I too am one. I hate coke, so carry a few sticks of nescafe and (cafe) sugar packets and make a cold coffee if necessary. The weight is minimal. But again, your call.

I highly value Aquarius, whether it's physical or psychological it certainly helps me. But each to their own .

Others have mentioned that you need to look after your diet better. Yes there are always going to be days where you can't get to a shop, but when you can a banana and a yoghurt make a quick, useful breakfast before setting out. Or even a yoghurt drink - freely available nearly everywhere in Spain, no refrigeration required. Nutrients consumed, no weight to carry.

As regards your snacks a suggestion would be carrying crackers and either hard cheese, some kind of dried meat/salami, or a small tin of either fish or meat paste. Together it's unlikely to weigh much more than your cookies, and you'll benefit far more from it. More long-term rather than short-term energy.

As @VNwalking says, consider carrying some salted nuts and some dried fruit in your hip belt. Add a little dark chocolate if you really need something sweet ( the Spanish make quite a nice chocolate with nuts in too.)

There are multiple threads on here regarding foods to carry, and many items don't necessarily weigh that much, but will sustain you far longer than cookies.

 

[RJE]

Copied and pasted from my FB post:

Carrión de los Condes to Ledigos
15 miles 24.14 Km.

I started my walk even earlier than usual at 5:30 AM because I knew the first 10 miles (17 Km) would be through a stretch that had absolutely no services, no cafes, no bars, no towns. Unfortunately, I got to Carrion yesterday on a Sunday, and by the time I got settled in, showered, and changed, the only open food store on Sunday had closed. Since I left so early, nothing was open. I did have a leftover cupcake and a package of cookies, and I managed to get a restaurant to sell me an Aquarius and a Coke bottle.

So I set out in the dark, there was another pilgrim ahead of me but he soon vanished in the dark. The trail was along a highway all the time, but it felt very scary, even though my headlamp was working perfectly. Soon enough, other pilgrims started to pass me in the darkness, many of them I already knew, and seeing their headlights in the distance was reassuring.

Slowly daylight was creeping in, and I managed to get pics of the sunrise, pics I’ll always treasure. But I was feeling hungry, weak, and my feet were bothering me, not a good thing so early on my day.

I managed to keep going, until I spied a makeshift rest area, so I stopped, took off my backpack, ate some cookies, and took more pics. A pilgrim passing by hold me there was coffee ahead, just a few meters away. So I put on my backpack and walked to a semi-permanent structure with a seating area, with several pilgrims around, so I thought hallelujah!

My joy was short lived because they had a problem with their electricity and there was no coffee, aaargh!!! They did have a coconut cake and I had a slice of that and a Coke. I know, less than ideal, don’t hate on me!
A couple of ladies insisted in giving me a cereal bar and an apple, which I gladly accepted and put in in my pack for later.

Feeling better, I resumed my walk, but my feet were bothering me, as I’ve forgotten about them. I trudged along the best I could. I saw in the distance a lady I’ve seen before and talked with a little. Something didn’t seem right with the way she walked, seemed unsteady. Eventually she got off the trail, and I saw she was laying on the seat of a concrete picnic table. I figured that she was ok so I sat on the other side of side, tending to my feet. The two ladies of the cereal bar then caught up with me, and they tried to help me by giving me an antiseptic cream, band-aids, and some suggestions. I thanked them as they left, then turned my attention to the lady lying down on the bench, to make sure she was OK. She wasn’t. She spoke Brazilian Portuguese so we had some trouble communicating, but it seemed to me she was struggling with low blood sugar. She told me she also had a Coke, but it didn’t work, what she really needed was coffee. I remembered the cereal bar, and offered it to her. She accepted only a little piece of it but would not take the entire bar. She ate the piece and felt better. At that point a friend of hers came by so I felt ok resuming my walk since she wasn’t alone.

It was a mercifully cool, cloudy day, and that helped tremendously. One big highlight was reaching the 400 Km marker to Santiago. At various points I’ve seen the numbers dwindle down from the 600s, after today I’ll start seeing 300s, yay! I did decide to try wearing my hiking sandals instead of my trail runners. I think it helped a little, but I really needed to stop walking, but I was still away from my destination.

After an endless stretch of straight road, I finally reached Calzadilla de La Cueza, where it seemed everyone I knew was there. It’s interesting to see how the group seems to reshuffle, I don’t see the same people every day, but I keep running into them every few days.

I finally had my Café con Leche, Tortilla de Patatas and orange juice. I ran again into the two ladies from this morning, a lady I met the day if the storm, and the Brazilian lady, now doing much better. We were all going to walk different places, the storm lady was staying in the current town, and the Brazilian lady was going much farther. She and I walked out of town, she told me this was her 5th Camino, and when I explained that I’m walking slow because of the weight of the cPAP machine, she offered to take my backpack to give me some relief. I politely declined, as that f****ng backpack is f****ng heavy (sorry, but no other words will do). Eventually she said she wanted to go ahead, because she wanted to get to her town before we got rain. She said she would pray for me and asjked I would do the same. Of course! She walked away, moving very agilely, unlike how she was in the morning. I hope I did some good for her today, just as the two ladies were good to me.

I only had 6.5 Km to go, it was only around noon, so I took it easy. The sun did perk out so I deployed my umbrella, but it got cloudy again. I found a good spot to sit and relax, watching pilgrims go by, some of them I knew, some of them not. I admired my pilgrim tan lines, drank my Coke and Aquarius from yesterday, because I was getting close.

Finally, I arrived at Ledigos , an extremely tiny village with not much going on as far as I could see. The exterior wasn’t encouraging, but they do have nice facilities and a nice yard with beautiful flowers. I showered, rested, will have a dinner here on my own since the place is so quiet (at least at the moment).

Tomorrow, I plan to walk only 16 Km to Sahagún, to keep my walking to a minimum. I also will try to get a distance certificate (not related to the Compostela) because it is considered the halfway point of the Camino Francés.

I can’t believe I’ve walked this far, and I hope I can keep it up. I’m trying to better learn how to meet my body’s needs, how to keep moving ahead without hurting myself. “The spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak”. How to walk the line between these two realities is the task I’m trying to learn, one day at a time, one step at a time…

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/eTFXqdsoTP6thQDM/?mibextid=WC7FNe

I appreciate reading your post Hector. It provides me good insight of what’s to come. I’m currently in Hontanas and hope to catch you one of these days and thank you in person for your candor.

 

[J Willhaus]

Hi Hector,
You just continue doing you. If it is any consolation, my feet hurt my entire first Camino, I got blisters, and the bottoms of my feet hurt for weeks after. I think it was mostly overuse in my case.

Also if a Cola and an Aquarius are what hits the spot, that seems fine, too. I know I eat potato chips and French fries like there is no tomorrow on the Camino, but never at home. You are burning lots of carbs with walking.

Keep on walking!
Janet

 

[WalkingLester]

In Sahagun in a farmacia you can likely find some kind of padding or insole. Maybe that will help. Also you could try some Voltadol forte gel (diclofenac). Get the forte concentration (2%). It works well for muscoskelatal pains, foot arthritis etc. As one physician to another I leave it to you to assess the risk of NSAIDs. Buen camino!

 

[Getwood]

In Sahagun in a farmacia you can likely find some kind of padding or insole. Maybe that will help. Also you could try some Voltadol forte gel (diclofenac). Get the forte concentration (2%). It works well for muscoskelatal pains, foot arthritis etc. As one physician to another I leave it to you to assess the risk of NSAIDs. Buen camino!

I'm actually bringing along prescription-strength Diclofenac gel (10%). Stuff's been a Godsend for my knees, and allows me to minimize/eliminate my use of oral NSAIDs (which work well but don't agree with my guts).

 

[dougfitz]

I suggest for these tricky parts in a village to simply use google maps and insert your destination for the day (or a town along the way) and the line it draws should be your Camino path

As someone with recent practical experience walking in Spain and Portugal, I only occasionally used Google Maps, and that was when I was close to or in a town and needed to get directions for the last few hundred metres. I can see that using it to get out of a town in the dark would be similar. I wouldn't rely on Google Maps beyond that.

Every time @Camo makes this suggestion, I do a quick sensibility check, and thus far, there are sections of the CF and other routes where the Google navigation algorithms do not recommend a route that matches the Camino path. It It might get better over time, but at this stage, there are several good, camino specific, apps available that provide much more accurate navigation guidance than Google Maps.

 

[trecile]

As someone with recent practical experience walking in Spain and Portugal, I only occasionally used Google Maps, and that was when I was close to or in a town and needed to get directions for the last few hundred metres. I can see that using it to get out of a town in the dark would be similar. I wouldn't rely on Google Maps beyond that.

Every time @Camo makes this suggestion, I do a quick sensibility check, and thus far, there are sections of the CF and other routes where the Google navigation algorithms do not recommend a route that matches the Camino path. It It might get better over time, but at this stage, there are several good, camino specific, apps available that provide much more accurate navigation guidance than Google Maps.

I found that mapy.cz does a pretty good job with this, as it has many walking trails built into the app.

 

[WalkingLester]

@Getwood Dios mío! I live on that stuff. I wonder if 10% is available in the US?!

 

[dbier]

@Getwood Dios mío! I live on that stuff. I wonder if 10% is available in the US?!

As far as I can tell, no. But it's hard to determine.

1% is over the counter.
2% is for large joints.
3% is used to remove skin growths.

And at that, the warning labels don't really fit on the box.

 

[dougfitz]

I found that mapy.cz does a pretty good job with this, as it has many walking trails built into the app.

I think that any of the apps that include the Open Street Maps data set will have a data layer of walking/hiking/cycling/equestrian routes that include the camino routes. Mapy.cz is one of those. There are many other good general purpose mapping apps out there as well as the camino specific apps. There may well be other geo-spatial information sources that include this information.

 

[bestfootforward]

I can’t believe I’m just starting my 4th week on the Camino!

Frómista to Carrión de los Condes, 12.5 miles, 20.11 Km.

A rather uneventful day, which I don’t mind after yesterday’s intense day. Every morning, we scramble to get ready to leave the albergue, which for me is complicated due to my cPAP machine. A bunch of them left very early , and a little group was with me at first. There was the usual confusion trying to find the yellow arrows, but finally I was on my way. My companions moved on, leaving me behind, but the route was clear, and I knew there would be other pilgrims catching up with me. The trail was a gravel one, dry smooth and flat, my only annoyance was stepping into puddles from the rain yesterday. I couldn’t see them, even with my headlamp, so I got my feet wet a few times.

Daybreak eventually came. It was another beautiful sunrise, the air was cool, and thankfully there were no mountains to climb. Just 3.3 Km away, I found an open bar where I could have my coffee and croissant. I continued on, and the trail gave two choices, the straight-line, borring one, or the more pleasant, panoramic one by the river. I got on the boring one because it seemed shorter on the maps. I wasn’t willing to walk any longer than I had to.

There were towns every few kilometers, which was nice, and I came upon an albergue that had a nice patio and offered some food. They also had a piano, but unfortunately it was horribly out of tune, besides after 3 weeks of not playing, my fingers wouldn’t cooperate.

I moved on, but there’s not much to say. The trail was a straight path next to a highway the entire time. There was a very gentle slope upwards, but I didn’t really feel it until the end.

Finally I reached Carrion De Los Condes, limping a little because I was again having blisters. I took care of them, finally made my way to the albergue. The nun was very warm and enthusiastic making me feel welcome. The usual routine of showering, finding a place for lunch, laundry, took most of the afternoon.

Unfortunately, because it’s Sunday, the little stores where I stock up on items for my walk, like sodas, closed early before I could get to them. This was a problem because tomorrow, upon leaving this town, there is a very long stretch (17 Km) with nothing, so I want to have at least an Aquarius and/or Voke if I run out of water. Luckily, I found a restaurant where I got two sodas to go, but they thought it was to my room (I wasn’t staying there), so they brought them to me poured in glasses. When I explained that I needed them for the Camino, they poured them in plastic bottles. Not ideal, but it will be OK

Tonight we have a community dinner, then tomorrow the recommended walk is a long walk, to Terradillos de Los Templarios, a good 26.3 Km away. I’ve decided to not walk so far, to Ledigos, 23.3 Km, and that’s pushing it.

I’m entering today my fourth Camino week, and while I’m amazed at show much I’ve accomplished, I’m getting weary, maybe a little burned out? I try to keep in mind that nobody forced me to do this, and to remember those for whom I walk.

FB link for pics

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

From your first post, you've come so far, and I don't just mean in distance. Just go with the flow. It's your Camino. Be proud of yourself, because those you're walking for definitely are. Buen Camino!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Question: my big toes have been hurting on the pads, but I don’t see any blisters or lesion that could explain it.Any ideas on what it could be?

I would guess that it's just general stress, and nothing to worry about too much. After a few weeks of walking, several parts of the body seem to settle into some sorts of pains, that start to fade after the end of the Camino.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Also if a Cola and an Aquarius are what hits the spot, that seems fine, too. I know I eat potato chips and French fries like there is no tomorrow on the Camino, but never at home. You are burning lots of carbs with walking.

Janet, with your nursing background I'm a little surprised at your reaction. I'm simply trying to encourage Hector to make a few minor changes which might help him avoid some of the energy (and mood) lows which he frequently reports experiencing.

After appx. 2 weeks on the trail 'hiker hunger' is a very real thing, although much more easily manageable on the camino than when through hiking. We all really need those extra calories!
However it is better managed with more complex carbs, rather than sugar. Something like your chips and french fries. Actually they're an excellent food when you're walking because they're high in carbs, fats and even contain protein, plus of course the salt which we need when sweating so copiously. Hardly surprising you consume them on trail, is it.
An excellent protein sauce is of course the boiled eggs that you frequently suggest.
These or any of the suggestions I've made above (or others, including yourself, elsewhere) will keep Hector going a lot longer - and stronger - than any sugary drink.

 

[Camo]

I can see that using it to get out of a town in the dark would be similar. I wouldn't rely on Google Maps beyond that.

Yes indeed that's ALL (ie getting out of town without walking an extra km) I was recommending here to Hector ie something FREE and ON his mobile and no visits to some appy-store which might work on iphone but maybe another appy store for android etc etc.

But with respect you don't seem to understand Google Maps so you certainly would be silly to use it until you do (possibly). It does NOT list specific trails and I don't know why you would think that.

On the other hand for the Web-Apps I make it is invaluable as it has the same engine for My Maps and Google Maps. Horses for courses

 

[Kathor1]

The thread is deviating a lot for a “Live from the Camino” thread.

 

[Kathor1]

Why all this talk about apps in Hector's Live from the Camino thread?

Pay attention to what he writes and don't focus on what you want to write about yourself. He writes:

"There was the usual confusion trying to find the yellow arrows, but finally I was on my way".​

​

Many Camino pilgrims like to walk by looking at and looking for yellow arrows. Yellow arrows may not be very present or very visible in a small town like Fromista and others. When you opt to stay in an albergue that is not right on the trail marked by yellow arrows on walls or by bronze markers on the pavement you will leave the marked trail in the afternoon to go to your albergue and you may wish to join it immediately again the next morning.

Other Camino pilgrims use other methods to join the main Camino path again at some point later on in the outskirts of town. It is no big deal.

 

[HBS60]

Arrived at the Geographic Center of the Camino !!!!

 

[David Tallan]

Arrived at the Geographic Center of the Camino !!!!

View attachment 177117

Just to say that you've actually walked a little more than half your Camino as this marks the half way point between Roncesvalles and Santiago.

 

[HBS60]

Just to say that you've actually walked a little more than half your Camino as this marks the half way point between Roncesvalles and Santiago.

I was wondering about that, good to know that I’m actually a bit further ahead than I thought. Thanks!

 

[Getwood]

@Getwood Dios mío! I live on that stuff. I wonder if 10% is available in the US?!

Since it's a "custom" creation (any "compounding pharmacy" should be able to make it for you), I don't see why it wouldn't be available by prescription. I don't think Canada's "special" in that regard.

As for warnings on the box, it's a NSAID. They all come with warnings, and they all should. Use wisely, but not fearfully. I had to use ibuprofen for years for a certain long-standing problem that's been resolved, and it tore my guts up somethin' fierce, but I still use it occasionally when real need (as opposed to mild, transient discomfort) arises, and I'm glad it and other NSAIDs are available. YMMV.

 

[HBS60]

Ledigos to Sahagún, 10.9 miles, 17.54 Km

I slept very well, and got up a bit later than usual, not wanting to go walk again, but I pushed that resistance aside and got up and got going. I decided to send my cPAP machine via transport, which really helped a lot. My feet were feeling better, and I wore my hiking sandals for the day.

I stepped out into a very windy, cold day. A nasty storm with hail hit us last evening, thankfully I was inside having dinner, but my mind was with pilgrims that might be out there. The storm probably knocked down the temperature. It wasn’t that cold but the wind chill was making it much colder. As I stepped out, another pilgrim, about my age, was shivering in shorts and t shirt, and decided he needed to change clothes. I had my tshirt and a long sleeved shirt on top, and my hiking pants. I knew that even though it didn’t feel like enough, I would warm up with walking.

Since I was “off stage” (meaning I didn’t end my day on the suggested towns, but one before), I wasn’t expecting to see anybody I knew. My albergue had only one other pilgrim, but it turns out some people I knew were staying in the other albergue in town. One of them caught up to me, we chatted for a while, then he went ahead. I stopped at the next town for breakfast, which helped warm me up a little. I needed to stop at the next town to use the BR, so I got a second breakfast. Struck up a conversation with another pilgrim I haven’t met, then another one I did know joined us.

Although the forecast didn’t call for it, it seemed it would rain soon, so I decided to put on my new blue rain jacket. It would help give me an extra layer of insulation because it was still cold. It seems like summer is already over around here.

I planned a short walk today, just to Sahagún, as I didn’t want to punish my feet too much. Thankfully, they felt much better today, and I continued my walk until I got to an important spot in my journey.

I reached a spot marked as the geographic center of the Camino. Looking at the distances, it seems it refers to the distance between Roncesvalles to Santiago, so, having come from SJPDP I was even further along than the midpoint.

It was an overwhelming moment. I asked a passerby to take my pic, then sat down at a picnic table, very emotional that I am actually at this point. The statues form sort of a threshold, and as I crossed it my mind went back to August 11, when this inexperienced pilgrim took his first steps into the Camino, a major leap of faith, a moment of courage I didn’t know I had.

You see, I was a thin, small, introverted boy, never athletic or muscular, an geeky introvert, more comfortable with books and intellectual matters than with strenuous activities like hiking, much less walking across Spain or crossing the Pyrenees, yet, somehow, I’ve come this far. I need to really rethink the image I have of myself, because I can do more than I thought possible.

I didn’t dwell on this for too long because I still had to reach my albergue, take care of the usual routine like showering, laundry, finding an albergue for tomorrow.

There was one thing I wanted to do, to get my “distance certificate”, which simply states that I passed through this town on my way to Santiago. I had to go to a specific church to get it, but it was closed for the afternoon, so I just went back when they reopened for the evening. It’s not an official Compostela but it gives me something tangible to remind me of what I’ve done.

But my journey is not over. Tomorrow I will walk again, stay at another town, meet new people and/or reconnect with others, and hopefully will continue to do so until I reach Santiago.

My journey is not over but I’m making progress…

ETA: for some reason, it takes forever to upload posts that have more than one videosin them, so I needed to remove them and limit my posts to pics, maybe one video.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/YdKe4xcV9SjLncyP/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[CWBuff]

Since I was “off stage” (meaning I didn’t end my day on the suggested towns, but one before), I wasn’t expecting to see anybody I knew. My albergue had only one other pilgrim, but it turns out some people I knew were staying in the other albergue in town.

Thats an "interesting" supposition.

It was an overwhelming moment. I asked a passerby to take my pic, then sat down at a picnic table, very emotional that I am actually at this point. The statues form sort of a threshold, and as I crossed it my mind went back to August 11, when this inexperienced pilgrim took his first steps into the Camino, a major leap of faith, a moment of courage I didn’t know I had.

And now... you are very experiences Pilgrim indeed. You pushed on despite lots of setbacks and here you are!

You see, I was a thin, small, introverted boy, never athletic or muscular, an geeky introvert, more comfortable with books and intellectual matters than with strenuous activities like hiking, much less walking across Spain or crossing the Pyrenees, yet, somehow, I’ve come this far. I need to really rethink the image I have of myself, because I can do more than I thought possible.

And here, my fiend, ends the Camino Lesson of the Day! Thats what we all meant when we said - "it teaches you lessons about yourself"

ETA: for some reason, it takes forever to upload posts that have more than one videosin them, so I needed to remove them and limit my posts to pics, maybe one video.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/YdKe4xcV9SjLncyP/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Videos take more bandwidth. Try perhaps not to upload all at the same time...

Cant wait until the next install!

Good luck and Buen Camino

 

[VNwalking]

I need to really rethink the image I have of myself, because I can do more than I thought possible.

Yup.
Of course.
So now you know what to do whenever self-doubt arises in the future. Always remember your own experience of the dissonance between self-doubt and reality.

Keep going, peregrino!

 

[KiwiJohn]

Thats an "interesting" supposition.

And now... you are very experiences Pilgrim indeed. You pushed on despite lots of setbacks and here you are!

And here, my fiend, ends the Camino Lesson of the Day! Thats what we all meant when we said - "it teaches you lessons about yourself"

Videos take more bandwidth. Try perhaps not to upload all at the same time...

Cant wait until the next install!

Good luck and Buen Camino

Off stage is the way to go!

 

[Camo]

It was an overwhelming moment. I asked a passerby to take my pic, then sat down at a picnic table, very emotional that I am actually at this point.

My main reply is to say congratulations on your EFFORT (physical and emotional) but my secondary reply is about the PRECISION of your accomplishment by which I am saying this is not just a symbolic halfway point but by whatever combination of waymarkers and apps you used your actual distance covered (discounting coffee stops and false starts etc) is within 2 km of being EXACTLY half way, which to me is totally amazing.

And that needs to be qualified by exactly WHERE the start/end point are designated. I was only able to check all this out because you use what Kath described as "a cool tracking app called Relive".

So let's see how it all goes in the second half. and don't forget to press the start button each day.

 

[HBS60]

Copied and pasted from my FB:

Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero: 11.5 miles 18.5 Km

The day didn’t start well, last evening wasn’t so good either. It seems I’m hopelessly out of synch with Spain’s eating times, which seems to vary from town to town, from day to day, from establishment to establishment. I will say I do have food issues, probably not to the point of an eating disorder, I just never make food s high priority, just sn afterthought. While I can enjoy a nice meal, all too often eating is an inconvenience because I’d rather focus on something else (foodies, please be kind ).

Last evening I waited until 7 pm to find something to eat, but the restaurant closest to my albergue didn’t open the kitchen until 8PM, and I wax finished. After much looking I found a place that had…pizza, so I ordered a BBQ pizza with bacon and sausage. Not great, but took care of my hunger. Not having a car made it difficult to find a place with better options, as my sore feet had enough punishment for the day.

I did sleep well, and I was looking for the breakfast the albergue had said would be ready for us at any time in the morning. I was told it was down the hold, but when I got there, there was a coffee pot with the power off and cold coffee, salt, pepper, napkins, teabags, but no food that I could see. I thought I was too early, but I went back 45 minutes later and still no food, and no one else was around to ask. So I ate a couple of cupcakes I had in my pack, and a coke, not what I wanted but I knew I had a 10 K walk to the next town, so I had to have something.

So I start out in the chilly morning, still dark. The trail was along a very busy highway, although for the most part I was safe because of guardrails. I’m noticing the headlights were disorienting me. I wasn’t dizzy, but felt unsteady (I do have balance issues). Thankfully, daybreak came, but I was feeling tired already. I realized I was feeling…depleted. The last three weeks have been very intense and very hard, and my body was starting to protest. Given that my nourishment has been less than ideal, I knew I needed to make sure I got something substantial to eat whenever I got to the next town. I also slowed down, took it easy, enjoyed the cool morning, greeted pilgrims that were passing by.

Since the weather has decidedly turned cooler, there’s no need for me to rush out of the door to beat the heat, rather, I need to make sure I eat better in the morning.

Finally, I got to Bercisnos del Real Camino, a very nice, new Albergue with a restaurant. My heart sank when all I saw on the counter were croisssnts and pastries, but I did inquire and was happy to hear that I could order a ham and cheese bocadillo. The word “bocado” means “mouthful”, adding the diminutive “-illo” makes it “a little mouthful”. There was nothing little about this bocadillo, it was huge, loaded with ham and cheese. I got my cafe con leche and OJ, felt much better so I went on.

Even though I was feeling better, the word that came to mind was “depleted”, not just physically but emotionally, as the past 3 weeks have been very intense for me. So I took my time, had a nice talk with a French Canadian lady I’ve met before, sat on benches when I could find them. It turns out that the lady had stayed at the same place, and there WAS breakfast, just in a room off to the left where I was looking for it. Arrrgh!

The weather was gorgeous and it really helped. As El Burgo Ranero came into view, I could see in the horizon some clouds, but also some mountains. The meseta might be coming to an end, and the climb up the Galicia mountains will be the next challenge.

Finally I arrived at my hotel (not an albergue this time), showered and had a humongous pilgrim meal with tortellini, pork chops, fries, and ice cream for dessert. I couldn’t finish it because I was stuffed.

As for my blisters, I was dismayed to discover a new one yesterday. I’ve heard conflicting advice on Compeed, so I tried Moleskin instead, along with some merino wool. I walked in my sandals today, and although they bother me a little, I wasn’t thinking about them much.

I’m settled in, took a little walk around town, where everything is closed. Since I ate well, I think I can have a late dinner (if they are open, it seems to be hit or miss), tomorrow I won’t go out so early to see if this makes a difference. I plan to walk to Mansilla de las Mulas, 18.6 Km. The temps are supposed to dip to 46F in the morning (7.7 C) and warm up to no more than 63 F (17 C)., so walking in the heat won’t be an issue. I plan to wear my rain jacket for extra insulation, but I’ll buy an extra garment, long-sleeved, for extra insulation, as I’ll need it when I get to the Galicia area in a few days.

I’m cautiously optimistic that I can reach Cruz de Ferro by September 11, although I may need to walk on some days a bit longer than I want. I do need the rest day in León, but after tomorrow’s walk, I might have a better idea.

All throughout this pilgrimage, I’ve experienced so much coming up, but I’m not sure they are emotions about anything in particular. It feels more like energy that slowly is coming up so it can be released, burdens I’ve carried for so long, and I hope when this is all done, to at least feel a little lighter…

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1pn8vE19TfHxW4Ab/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[J Willhaus]

Decathlon in Leon will have inexpensive jackets, long sleeved shirts, etc. My husband bought a jacket there for less than 20 euros on a 2021 Camino and he still wears it all the time here at home.

There is also a big department store (El Corte Ingles) that has everything (groceries, clothes, housewares, etc.). It isn't far from the old town and is in a neighborhood with some good locals type restaurants that are less touristy. My husband also got his hair cut in this area.

We always stay at the AC Hotel (using our Marriott points) which is across the street from the dept store. Very quiet and comfortable if you need a rest day.

 

[trecile]

. So I ate a couple of cupcakes I had in my pack, and a coke, not what I wanted but I knew I had a 10 K walk to the next town, so I had to have something.

I share @Peterexpatkiwi's concern that you are relying too much on sugary snacks that don't provide much long term sustenance. Please buy something with more protein and fat to snack on. I say this as someone who loves a sugary snack once in a while! But on Camino I usually have a pack of salted cashews to provide some longer term energy. Though I usually also have a piece of chocolate and an orange in my pack too.

 

[DJames]

continue to relax and meditate and let the energy flow......

 

[dbier]

Copied and pasted from my FB:

Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero: 11.5 miles 18.5 Km

The day didn’t start well, last evening wasn’t so good either. It seems I’m hopelessly out of synch with Spain’s eating times, which seems to vary from town to town, from day to day, from establishment to establishment. I will say I do have food issues, probably not to the point of an eating disorder, I just never make food s high priority, just sn afterthought. While I can enjoy a nice meal, all too often eating is an inconvenience because I’d rather focus on something else (foodies, please be kind ).

Last evening I waited until 7 pm to find something to eat, but the restaurant closest to my albergue didn’t open the kitchen until 8PM, and I wax finished. After much looking I found a place that had…pizza, so I ordered a BBQ pizza with bacon and sausage. Not great, but took care of my hunger. Not having a car made it difficult to find a place with better options, as my sore feet had enough punishment for the day.

I did sleep well, and I was looking for the breakfast the albergue had said would be ready for us at any time in the morning. I was told it was down the hold, but when I got there, there was a coffee pot with the power off and cold coffee, salt, pepper, napkins, teabags, but no food that I could see. I thought I was too early, but I went back 45 minutes later and still no food, and no one else was around to ask. So I ate a couple of cupcakes I had in my pack, and a coke, not what I wanted but I knew I had a 10 K walk to the next town, so I had to have something.

So I start out in the chilly morning, still dark. The trail was along a very busy highway, although for the most part I was safe because of guardrails. I’m noticing the headlights were disorienting me. I wasn’t dizzy, but felt unsteady (I do have balance issues). Thankfully, daybreak came, but I was feeling tired already. I realized I was feeling…depleted. The last three weeks have been very intense and very hard, and my body was starting to protest. Given that my nourishment has been less than ideal, I knew I needed to make sure I got something substantial to eat whenever I got to the next town. I also slowed down, took it easy, enjoyed the cool morning, greeted pilgrims that were passing by.

Since the weather has decidedly turned cooler, there’s no need for me to rush out of the door to beat the heat, rather, I need to make sure I eat better in the morning.

Finally, I got to Bercisnos del Real Camino, a very nice, new Albergue with a restaurant. My heart sank when all I saw on the counter were croisssnts and pastries, but I did inquire and was happy to hear that I could order a ham and cheese bocadillo. The word “bocado” means “mouthful”, adding the diminutive “-illo” makes it “a little mouthful”. There was nothing little about this bocadillo, it was huge, loaded with ham and cheese. I got my cafe con leche and OJ, felt much better so I went on.

Even though I was feeling better, the word that came to mind was “depleted”, not just physically but emotionally, as the past 3 weeks have been very intense for me. So I took my time, had a nice talk with a French Canadian lady I’ve met before, sat on benches when I could find them. It turns out that the lady had stayed at the same place, and there WAS breakfast, just in a room off to the left where I was looking for it. Arrrgh!

The weather was gorgeous and it really helped. As El Burgo Ranero came into view, I could see in the horizon some clouds, but also some mountains. The meseta might be coming to an end, and the climb up the Galicia mountains will be the next challenge.

Finally I arrived at my hotel (not an albergue this time), showered and had a humongous pilgrim meal with tortellini, pork chops, fries, and ice cream for dessert. I couldn’t finish it because I was stuffed.

As for my blisters, I was dismayed to discover a new one yesterday. I’ve heard conflicting advice on Compeed, so I tried Moleskin instead, along with some merino wool. I walked in my sandals today, and although they bother me a little, I wasn’t thinking about them much.

I’m settled in, took a little walk around town, where everything is closed. Since I ate well, I think I can have a late dinner (if they are open, it seems to be hit or miss), tomorrow I won’t go out so early to see if this makes a difference. I plan to walk to Mansilla de las Mulas, 18.6 Km. The temps are supposed to dip to 46F in the morning (7.7 C) and warm up to no more than 63 F (17 C)., so walking in the heat won’t be an issue. I plan to wear my rain jacket for extra insulation, but I’ll buy an extra garment, long-sleeved, for extra insulation, as I’ll need it when I get to the Galicia area in a few days.

I’m cautiously optimistic that I can reach Cruz de Ferro by September 11, although I may need to walk on some days a bit longer than I want. I do need the rest day in León, but after tomorrow’s walk, I might have a better idea.

All throughout this pilgrimage, I’ve experienced so much coming up, but I’m not sure they are emotions about anything in particular. It feels more like energy that slowly is coming up so it can be released, burdens I’ve carried for so long, and I hope when this is all done, to at least feel a little lighter…

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1pn8vE19TfHxW4Ab/?mibextid=WC7FNe

You will feel lighter.

It's normal to feel depleted on and off, particularly on this Camino. Your body, mind ( and spirit) are all doing the extremely hard work of dis-covery and re-covery. And you've pretty much identified what you need to do differently, nutritionally.

One thing that has stuck out for me, over your posts, is you learning ( sometimes after the fact) that you could have changed your circumstances in the moment...if you'd admitted that you didn't know, or didn't understand, or called attention to your confusion.

We all learn that too, when we're open to that lesson. Not a criticism, but a validation . We learn when we need to share our burdens.

By the way, in case you've glossed over all your compliments...we are complimenting you. You have done awesomely well, and your growth is shining through these posts...even if you can't see it. ( I don't do FB, so rely on your cut and pastes).

Do whatever you must to get to the Cruz on the 11th. You have our tacit permission.

But...even if you don't, read this carefully. YOU. ARE. SUCCEEDING.

Right there. Right now.

Ultreya e Suseia.

 

[VNwalking]

Even though I was feeling better, the word that came to mind was “depleted”, not just physically but emotionally, as the past 3 weeks have been very intense for me

It's good you aren't giving the 'flatness' any rein. Acknowledge kindly and move on. Same with the intensity - even reflecting about how intense it been can feed a draining kind of identification with it. Yeah, it was intense. But 'now' is not 'was.'

The Camino is a tremendous resilience teacher. One step one step one step is all it takes, and that's usually possible. The Camino also teaches wisdom of not pushing one's limits, so we can keep taking that one step - stopping before it's too much.
You're doing great, Hector! Learning all that as you go.

 

[WalkingLester]

Hang in there. As Americans I think we are used to being able to get pretty much anything we want to eat at any time of day. I have been to Spain eight times for Caminos and I still have trouble with meal times. In April, in Astorga, I had a big melt down from hunger. Fortunately, I was with my wife who is used to dealing with hungry toddlers and she found a solution! I have come to believe that the Spanish menu del dia (available roughly from 1-4pm) is the way to go.

 

[trecile]

I had a big melt down from hunger. Fortunately, I was with my wife who is used to dealing with hungry toddlers and she found a solution!

 

[CWBuff]

..., I could see in the horizon some clouds, but also some mountains. The meseta might be coming to an end, and the climb up the Galicia mountains will be the next challenge....
...insulation, as I’ll need it when I get to the Galicia area in a few days.....

You are still quite some ways from Galicia mountains. One step at a time, remember?
Take a rest day un Leon and eat some protein food! Stock up on non-perishable snacks as well!

Take note that lots of folks complain bitterly about walking out from León. I don't recall having any issues but I happened to be walking with another Pilgrim and 4 eyes are better than 2 so we did all right.
But many take a taxi just to get them out of the town so may be a consideration for you

Good luck and Buen Camino

 

[Kathor1]

I guess what he sees, and meant, are not Galician mountains but the Leonese mountains, Montes de Léon. Their highest peak is Teleno with 2200 m, and if I remember correctly one can see its peak clearly on the left while climbing up to Rabanal and Foncebadon.

 

[HBS60]

Copied and pasted from my FB:

El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas: 11.8 miles 18.9 Km

As I stated yesterday, I decided not to set out so early, but to wait for the albergue’s breakfast. Since I was up anyway, I took the extra time to do better foot care, applying moleskin in hot spots, trimming a couple sharp toenail corners, etc. This was easier to do since I was in a private room, where I could turn on my lights without waking anybody up. As a result, my blisters didn’t bother me as much today, but my soles were really bothering me a lot later in the morning, which I attribute to walking in my sandals, not in my shoes. I intend to buy a new pair of shoes in Leon if I can figure out how to get to their Decathlon store.

Anyway, “breakfast” time came, and it was…toast. Just toast. No tortillas, no bocadillos, not even croissants. They did serve cafe con leche and orange juice, and the toast itself was a pair of very thick bread slices, but I was worried if that would hold me until the next town 13 Km away. I had breakfast with 3 other pilgrims I knew, then I set off early since I knew eventually they would catch up with me.

It was 49F degrees (9.4C) and it was supposed to warm up to the 60s (around 17C), but fortunately it wasn’t windy. There was some rain in the radar but it was headed away from us. As I stepped out, I saw the most breathtaking sunrise clouds, fiery red like I’ve never seen before. The rest of the sky did have some clouds but I could tell it would be a nice day.

It was a perfect day for walking, the cool air prevented me from overheating. Eventually, a trickle of pilgrims started to overtake me, gradually growing into a wave. Many gave me friendly “hola!s” or “Buen Camino”s, others just looked straight ahead, maybe lost in thought, maybe having tunnel vision, but seemingly in a hurry. To each their own. I did get a pleasant surprise when a pilgrim whom I met with his wife on the very first day climbing from SJPDP to Orisson messaged me, it really cheered me up to be remembered this way, and I’m grateful for that.

Finally I got to the town of Reliegos, about 13 Km away from El Burgo Ranero, with an albergue bar restaurant where I could finally have my tortilla, more coffee and orange juice. After that, it was just 6 Km.

The day was warming up but not too much, and my blisters were just slightly annoying, but the soles of my feet were starting to bother me, as well as the ankles. I imagine it’s probably at least in part from switching from my Hokas to the my hiking sandals. My energy levels, while not great, were much better than yesterday, so I got to my albergue, made sure to have lunch, took care of things like finding a place for the next two nights in León, take cash out of the ATM, and now I’m just relaxing, resting my feet.

I’m looking forward for my rest day in León. I think I’ve earned it…

Fb link for pics:

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid08FSfQGNR6WYaqnLdpgLQyhtrNVbz2MECm65uJpFXegPHRiaN5MJxRcmHuQptt3abl&id=510637685

 

[trecile]

Anyway, “breakfast” time came, and it was…toast. Just toast. No tortillas, no bocadillos, not even croissants.

That's pretty normal for an albergue supplied breakfast. Anything else is a bonus.

 

[Kirkie]

Copied and pasted from my FB:

El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas: 11.8 miles 18.9 Km

As I stated yesterday, I decided not to set out so early, but to wait for the albergue’s breakfast. Since I was up anyway, I took the extra time to do better foot care, applying moleskin in hot spots, trimming a couple sharp toenail corners, etc. This was easier to do since I was in a private room, where I could turn on my lights without waking anybody up. As a result, my blisters didn’t bother me as much today, but my soles were really bothering me a lot later in the morning, which I attribute to walking in my sandals, not in my shoes. I intend to buy a new pair of shoes in Leon if I can figure out how to get to their Decathlon store.

Anyway, “breakfast” time came, and it was…toast. Just toast. No tortillas, no bocadillos, not even croissants. They did serve cafe con leche and orange juice, and the toast itself was a pair of very thick bread slices, but I was worried if that would hold me until the next town 13 Km away. I had breakfast with 3 other pilgrims I knew, then I set off early since I knew eventually they would catch up with me.

It was 49F degrees (9.4C) and it was supposed to warm up to the 60s (around 17C), but fortunately it wasn’t windy. There was some rain in the radar but it was headed away from us. As I stepped out, I saw the most breathtaking sunrise clouds, fiery red like I’ve never seen before. The rest of the sky did have some clouds but I could tell it would be a nice day.

It was a perfect day for walking, the cool air prevented me from overheating. Eventually, a trickle of pilgrims started to overtake me, gradually growing into a wave. Many gave me friendly “hola!s” or “Buen Camino”s, others just looked straight ahead, maybe lost in thought, maybe having tunnel vision, but seemingly in a hurry. To each their own. I did get a pleasant surprise when a pilgrim whom I met with his wife on the very first day climbing from SJPDP to Orisson messaged me, it really cheered me up to be remembered this way, and I’m grateful for that.

Finally I got to the town of Reliegos, about 13 Km away from El Burgo Ranero, with an albergue bar restaurant where I could finally have my tortilla, more coffee and orange juice. After that, it was just 6 Km.

The day was warming up but not too much, and my blisters were just slightly annoying, but the soles of my feet were starting to bother me, as well as the ankles. I imagine it’s probably at least in part from switching from my Hokas to the my hiking sandals. My energy levels, while not great, were much better than yesterday, so I got to my albergue, made sure to have lunch, took care of things like finding a place for the next two nights in León, take cash out of the ATM, and now I’m just relaxing, resting my feet.

I’m looking forward for my rest day in León. I think I’ve earned it…

Fb link for pics:

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid08FSfQGNR6WYaqnLdpgLQyhtrNVbz2MECm65uJpFXegPHRiaN5MJxRcmHuQptt3abl&id=510637685

I am reading your posts. Have a look in supermercados for this:



If you can tolerate cheese. With a couple of plain biscuits, a banana, an apple... a yogurt drink... off you go, chico!

 

[BarbaraW]

You certainly have earned it Hector!

 

[HBS60]

I am reading your posts. Have a look in supermercados for this:

View attachment 177238

If you can tolerate cheese. With a couple of plain biscuits, a banana, an apple... a yogurt drink... off you go, chico!

Thanks! I’ll certainly look…if the supermercado is open…I seem to try at the wrong times…

 

[J Willhaus]

Yes, breakfast in Spain isn't much. I would never "pay" to add on breakfast unless I knew in advance that it was going to be fabulous. I usually stay at a place where I can make some hard boiled eggs, carry instant coffee, and have BabyBell cheese with me. Those little Magdalena (cupcakes without frosting) or dry toast are not enough for me.

 

[DJames]

Leon is a great place to stay for rest day!
Jamon jamon!!!

Disfruta!!

 

[SEB2]

Hello Hector, there is a DIA supermarket in Mansilla - see map https://mapcarta.com/es/N6739264985 it closes at 9pm
also several branches of DIA in LEON most open at 9am and some close at 7 pm two not far from El Cortes Ingles (this department store usually includes its own supermarket & if it is as good as the one in Bilbao it will provide all you need for future snacks etc.).

 

[CWBuff]

re: Breakfast - seems others already piped in on the issue but I'll just add that this is exactly why I gave up on "waiting for albergue breakfast" pretty shortly after my start. As I have mentioned before I made sure I had some fruit (apples and grapes are my faves but sometimes I had strawberries.... and I relented and had some cherries but truly towards the end... well I ws (ahem) afraid you know....) and somehard boiled eggs and I would be outta there 6:00-6:30 am! yes roughly 10km in the next 2 hours would get me my first break and usually I did hit an open bar (to be sure some places would up being setbacks but there werent that many and, short of Cafe con Leche I was not starving). To sum up - I had my chance at breakfast anyways but gained 10km of distance du jour by the time other folks (who decided to do so) just got to the table at albergue.... for the already-mentioned TOAST!

I'm not sure why you having hard time finding supermarkets (or even small grocery stores for that matter). There are many various places to get food (perhaps Google something "near you")

In any case - rest and "regroup" in Leon. Wonderful City!!!!

Ultreia!

 

[dagreen]

Enjoy León. Its cathedral and the nearby Basilica de San Isidro are two Camino highlights. Additionally, there is the custom of getting a free tapa with your drink at its bars and cafes. Some even give you a menu from which you choose your nibbles.

This article from El País includes a short video with some of the best bars to visit.

Comer por la cara: las mejores tapas gratis en León

Cuando pides algo de beber en un bar de León, lo normal es que te pongan una tapa sin coste adicional. ¿Cuáles son los sitios que lo hacen mejor? Viajamos hasta la ciudad para encontrarlos.

elpais.com

 

[Camino Chrissy]

That's pretty normal for an albergue supplied breakfast. Anything else is a bonus.

That's why I no longer bother with the albergue breakfasts. Also in my experience the coffee they make always sits in the warming carafe of a drip coffee pot. It's no cafe con leche, adding to my disappointment, so I prefer to wait and walk until I can get "the real thing".

 

[trecile]

When I was in Mansilla in June the Día supermercado (or it could have been the Lupa store) was under construction, but looked like it would be opening soon. I went to another supermercado after searching on Google Maps.

 

[DJames]

Enjoy León. Its cathedral and the nearby Basilica de San Isidro are two Camino highlights. Additionally, there is the custom of getting a free tapa with your drink at its bars and cafes. Some even give you a menu from which you choose your nibbles.

This article from El País includes a short video with some of the best bars to visit.

Comer por la cara: las mejores tapas gratis en León

Cuando pides algo de beber en un bar de León, lo normal es que te pongan una tapa sin coste adicional. ¿Cuáles son los sitios que lo hacen mejor? Viajamos hasta la ciudad para encontrarlos.

elpais.com

Tengo hambre!

 

[HBS60]

it closes at 9pm

I’m just reading this at 9:16 PM, just as I’m settling for bed. I’ll try to find it in León

 

[donalomahony]

Copied and pasted from my FB:

El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas: 11.8 miles 18.9 Km

As I stated yesterday, I decided not to set out so early, but to wait for the albergue’s breakfast. Since I was up anyway, I took the extra time to do better foot care, applying moleskin in hot spots, trimming a couple sharp toenail corners, etc. This was easier to do since I was in a private room, where I could turn on my lights without waking anybody up. As a result, my blisters didn’t bother me as much today, but my soles were really bothering me a lot later in the morning, which I attribute to walking in my sandals, not in my shoes. I intend to buy a new pair of shoes in Leon if I can figure out how to get to their Decathlon store.

Anyway, “breakfast” time came, and it was…toast. Just toast. No tortillas, no bocadillos, not even croissants. They did serve cafe con leche and orange juice, and the toast itself was a pair of very thick bread slices, but I was worried if that would hold me until the next town 13 Km away. I had breakfast with 3 other pilgrims I knew, then I set off early since I knew eventually they would catch up with me.

It was 49F degrees (9.4C) and it was supposed to warm up to the 60s (around 17C), but fortunately it wasn’t windy. There was some rain in the radar but it was headed away from us. As I stepped out, I saw the most breathtaking sunrise clouds, fiery red like I’ve never seen before. The rest of the sky did have some clouds but I could tell it would be a nice day.

It was a perfect day for walking, the cool air prevented me from overheating. Eventually, a trickle of pilgrims started to overtake me, gradually growing into a wave. Many gave me friendly “hola!s” or “Buen Camino”s, others just looked straight ahead, maybe lost in thought, maybe having tunnel vision, but seemingly in a hurry. To each their own. I did get a pleasant surprise when a pilgrim whom I met with his wife on the very first day climbing from SJPDP to Orisson messaged me, it really cheered me up to be remembered this way, and I’m grateful for that.

Finally I got to the town of Reliegos, about 13 Km away from El Burgo Ranero, with an albergue bar restaurant where I could finally have my tortilla, more coffee and orange juice. After that, it was just 6 Km.

The day was warming up but not too much, and my blisters were just slightly annoying, but the soles of my feet were starting to bother me, as well as the ankles. I imagine it’s probably at least in part from switching from my Hokas to the my hiking sandals. My energy levels, while not great, were much better than yesterday, so I got to my albergue, made sure to have lunch, took care of things like finding a place for the next two nights in León, take cash out of the ATM, and now I’m just relaxing, resting my feet.

I’m looking forward for my rest day in León. I think I’ve earned it…

Fb link for pics:

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid08FSfQGNR6WYaqnLdpgLQyhtrNVbz2MECm65uJpFXegPHRiaN5MJxRcmHuQptt3abl&id=510637685

You have earned it

 

[SEB2]

I’m just reading this at 9:16 PM, just as I’m settling for bed. I’ll try to find it in León

Here is a map - I hope and the details for the DIA Supermercado in central Leon on C/ Fray Luis de Leon, 16. https://www.bing.com/search?q=dia+i...9d22f4e37bc633d9934c7c516&clckatsg=1&hsmssg=0

It opens at 9 am and closes (Friday and Saturday) at 9.30pm. They are cheap and good shops. it is very close to El Corte Ingles department store which has a cafe, supermarket and sports department.and open 10 am to 10 pm.

 

[Theatregal]

I intend to buy a new pair of shoes in Leon if I can figure out how to get to their Decathlon store.

Hector - there is a very good shop for shoes in Leon - central and close to Casa Botines.

Armeria Castro Deportes y tienda Peregrino
Address: C. la Rúa, 7, 24003 León, Spain
Phone: +34 987 25 70 20

 

[trecile]

Hector - there is a very good shop for shoes in Leon - central and close to Casa Botines.

Armeria Castro Deportes y tienda Peregrino
Address: C. la Rúa, 7, 24003 León, Spain
Phone: +34 987 25 70 20

And you can also pick up some wool to use to cushion your feet at the same store:

I stopped in the pilgrim store Armería Castro.Deportes y Tienda del peregrino today, and they carry bags of wool to use on your feet.

View attachment 172158

Armería Castro.Deportes y Tienda del peregrino (La Rúa) · C. la Rúa, 6, 24003 León, Spain

★★★★★ · Sporting goods store

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[Getwood]

I am reading your posts. Have a look in supermercados for this:

View attachment 177238

If you can tolerate cheese. With a couple of plain biscuits, a banana, an apple... a yogurt drink... off you go, chico!

Babybels rock, and they come in a variety of flavours. 6g of protein per. Goodly amount of fats, too.

 

[HBS60]

Mansilla de las Mulas to León: 12.2 miles 19.6 Km

It was a very cold morning, about 42F degrees (5.5 C). Thankfully, it wasn’t windy, but I needed to put on my rain jacket to give me an extra layer, as I didn’t bring warm clothes, just a long-sleeved polyester tshirt, which had sufficed so far. I did wait until 7 AM to get the Pilgrim toast breakfast at my albergue (I need my coffee!!!), then set out, knowing that as usual, waves of pilgrims will catch up with me.

As I walked, I was warming up, and I figured I would be OK. I stopped at a nearby town for my tortilla, more coffee and orange juice. I resumed my walk, which took me through a few towns, which seemed to get more industrial as I continued my walk. I also started to have more uphills, nothing dramatic, but I was already weary from weeks carrying my heavy backpack. I started to reflect on how this could be a metaphor for my life, how my burdens slow me down and makes it all so more difficult. I decided at that moment I would use the luggage service not just for the cPAP, but for the entire backpack, and I would get a daypack when I got to León, in addition to getting new shoes. This morning I started to feel a new blister forming on the other foot, so I knew I HAD to get new shoes, as well as a warm garment for the days ahead.

Curiously, my blisters didn’t bother me too much today, but the temperature, which was starting to rise and feel pleasant, started to get cold and windy, with a hint of rain. The cold weather (in addition to all that coffee and OJ, plus prostate issues) makes me want to pee a lot, and I needed to go behind the bushes several times. I stopped at another town to use the BR, ordered a bocadillo, ate half and took the rest for the road.

Eventually I got to what I thought was León, it in reality was Puente de Castro. The Camino gets out of the gravel trails and into the city streets, and unfortunately there was still a LOT of walking to do before getting into León proper. Once again I needed to pee but there was no bushes where I could take care of this discreetly, thankfully I was able to use a gas station’s bathroom.

I don’t know exactly where Puente de Castro ends and Leon begins, but in any case it’s a very nice metro area. The neighborhoods seemed older but well kept and elegant, and finally I found my hostel, glad I would finally get some rest. My feet soles were hurting because my hiking sandals didn’t give me enough cushion.

To my dismay, I was told that my cPAP machine never arrived. Turns out I hadn’t called the luggage service, which is my fault. I didn’t think of it since I’ve been simply leaving my luggage in the area designated for that purpose, with the instruction envelope and payment inside, I had always got it delivered. In any case, the hostel lady is making all kinds of phone calls, trying to help me solve the problem. She couldn’t get hold of the company I was using, so she called a different company, which would send it via taxi for a fee of 21 € (the usual cost is 6€). I was willing to pay, since after all this was my fault, but she kept making phone calls, this time to the albergue I was at last night. After getting an earful from whom I believe was the owner, the fact that my cPAP was still there was verified, and they would send a lady later in the afternoon. When I inquired about how much I owed (I was willing to pay), she said she would just take the fee I enclosed in the envelope.

I tried to settle in, took a shower, paid for laundry (the hostal lady took the payment, ran the washing machine herself, and even hung up the clothes as there is no dryer). I was very impressed with her helpfulness. She really went the extra mile!

I asked her about where I could get shoes and other stuff I needed, she directed me to a place just 4 blocks away, but I had to wait until 5 PM. She was going to stay as long as she could for the machine, but she typically works until 5 PM. She told me to go ahead anyway, so I found the store (Armerías Castro) and almost took it home with me.

I tried several shoes, Hokas and Altras, an extra pair of socks, a very nice sweater, and a daypack. I settled on another pair of Hokas, different model than what I had, much wider than my current pair. Getting the Hokas, socks, sweater, and daypack cost me a lot, but I want to make sure I have better gear for the days ahead.

I came back to my Hostel, still no cPAP but the hostel lady had to leave. She reassured I would get my cPAP machine, and sure enough, it arrived a bit later, brought by one of the employees from yesterday’s albergue. I was very apologetic but she told me not to worry, and even hugged me. I can now literally breathe easier.

I wasn’t in the mood to eat a lot, so I ate the other half of my bocadillo, then went out to “test drive” my new Hokas. Since it was a chilly day, I wore my new sweater and rain jacket. I didn’t realize until I stepped out that it was raining lightly, which normally would deter me from going outside. I went anyway, enjoying a very pleasant stroll in a beautiful, charming city. It wasn’t raining very hard, it enough that people had their umbrellas out. My new sweater under my rain jacket kept me nice and warm (normally I whine about being cold all the time)

After so many days of small towns, I was a bit overwhelmed by the vibrant level of activity, and the immense variety of businesses, restaurants, and stores. Not wanting to push myself too much, I went back to the hostel and met some new pilgrims. I’m now getting settled down and I hope now I can truly relax since I’ve taken care of all these things. I tried filling my new daypack and while I still have to decide what to put in it and how to organize it, the difference in the weight is amazing.

Tomorrow this Pilgrim will take the day off, although I might post some musings, but first and foremost, I need to rest.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/FaqqKjYQEPW362JF/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[jungleboy]

Not having a car made it difficult to find a place with better options, as my sore feet had enough punishment for the day.

Forgive me Héctor but I found this comment curious. It sounds like you are longing for a car here. But part of the magic of the camino is letting go of home conviences and comforts and realizing you can be happy with a lot less; that what you have is more important than what you don't have. Being able to drive around from place to place wouldn't make for much of a pilgrimage IMO. Easy for me to say in this case because I have never owned a car and, on the other hand, you live in a country that has an enormous dependence on cars. This is just a small example but in any case I hope in general the camino is showing you what is really important in life for you going forward. ¡Buen camino!

 

[HBS60]

Forgive me Héctor but I found this comment curious. It sounds like you are longing for a car here. But part of the magic of the camino is letting go of home conviences and comforts and realizing you can be happy with a lot less; that what you have is more important than what you don't have. Being able to drive around from place to place wouldn't make for much of a pilgrimage IMO. Easy for me to say in this case because I have never owned a car and, on the other hand, you live in a country that has an enormous dependence on cars. This is just a small example but in any case I hope in general the camino is showing you what is really important in life for you going forward. ¡Buen camino!

It’s not a longing for a car, I actually hadn’t missed them, it’s more about not knowing how else to go where I needed to go, particularly when exhausted. Yes, I live in a car-dependent society, I would rather use public transport or walk, just not to the next town.

 

[trecile]

I started to reflect on how this could be a metaphor for my life, how my burdens slow me down and makes it all so more difficult.

Great insight!
As you let go of your physical burdens by sending your gear ahead, I hope that you can also let go of your psychological burdens.

 

[DJames]

When I walked the Camino with sore feet, blisters sore back and hungry stomach , I had this question:

If I was a pilgrim 700 years ago and I was on the way to Santiago and the king of navarra came by on his royal coach and stuck his head out and asked if I wanted to jump on board, would I do it or continue walking?

Descansas

 

[David Tallan]

When I walked the Camino with sore feet, blisters sore back and hungry stomach , I had this question:

If I was a pilgrim 700 years ago and I was on the way to Santiago and the king of navarra came by on his royal coach and stuck his head out and asked if I wanted to jump on board, would I do it or continue walking?

Descansas

Heck, it wouldn't need to be the king of Navarra. I expect most medieval walking pilgrims, if a local farmer on his way to market came by and offered them a ride to the next village in his cart, would have gratefully accepted.

 

[dougfitz]

To my dismay, I was told that my cPAP machine never arrived. Turns out I hadn’t called the luggage service, which is my fault. I didn’t think of it since I’ve been simply leaving my luggage in the area designated for that purpose, with the instruction envelope and payment inside, I had always got it delivered. In any case, the hostel lady is making all kinds of phone calls, trying to help me solve the problem. She couldn’t get hold of the company I was using, so she called a different company, which would send it via taxi for a fee of 21 € (the usual cost is 6€). I was willing to pay, since after all this was my fault, but she kept making phone calls, this time to the albergue I was at last night. After getting an earful from whom I believe was the owner, the fact that my cPAP was still there was verified, and they would send a lady later in the afternoon. When I inquired about how much I owed (I was willing to pay), she said she would just take the fee I enclosed in the envelope.

I wonder if you are going to rethink having your CPAP transported. I have never done this, accepting that the weight of the machine is part of my daily load. If I need to reduce the weight of that, I need to look at other things before entrusting my CPAP to a pack transport company. While you might have been the architect of this current incident, I have seen instances of pilgrims finding that their bags have not been delivered to the place they intended.

It seems to me very much the same argument as some forum members mount for not checking their back packs - the incidence of lost baggage might be small, but the consequences of not getting the machine can be disproportionate.

 

[Camo]

went out to “test drive” my new Hokas.

So how were they?

 

[J Willhaus]

Yes, we never ship the CPAP or medications. If we have to ship something it's clothes, toiletries, etc. I carry the CPAP's and meds and let Phil just carry a water bottle and a few snacks.

 

[Camo]

I don’t know exactly where Puente de Castro ends and Leon begins

At a guess I would say ends at the lovely lion things at start of bridge and starts at similar lions at other end, but I am more interested in the path you took 1 km or so back where my 2024 Brierley mentions taking "the new pilgrim footbridge pasarela" and then "another pasarela over ring road".

The first one is the "big blue thing" where "new" means since first edition in 2003 (maybe about 2009?) and you were already on the left so did not use it.

The second one was removed in about 2022 (but not noticed by Brierley) with the major expressway mods so you took the correct new one (part of mods).

Here are the sat navs and I would be interested to know what your own guide made of all this

 

[JabbaPapa]

Here are the sat navs and I would be interested to know what your own guide made of all this

FWIW, when I walked out of León just over a month ago in the "opposite" direction, I saw no pilgrims taking the route to the footbridge, but everyone was walking along the main road.

This is because the yellow arrows have been (sensibly IMO) diverted by the locals towards the village and towards its shop and bars/restaurants and Albergue, instead of the "official" route which completely avoids them.

 

[HBS60]

At a guess I would say ends at the lovely lion things at start of bridge and starts at similar lions at other end, but I am more interested in the path you took 1 km or so back where my 2024 Brierley mentions taking "the new pilgrim footbridge pasarela" and then "another pasarela over ring road".

The first one is the "big blue thing" where "new" means since first edition in 2003 (maybe about 2009?) and you were already on the left so did not use it.

The second one was removed in about 2022 (but not noticed by Brierley) with the major expressway mods so you took the correct new one (part of mods).

Here are the sat navs and I would be interested to know what your own guide made of all this
View attachment 177302
View attachment 177301

I’m not too sure of which route I took as I was more concerned about finding a place to pee, I’m guessing it might have been the second route

 

[HBS60]

Yes, we never ship the CPAP or medications. If we have to ship something it's clothes, toiletries, etc. I carry the CPAP's and meds and let Phil just carry a water bottle and a few snacks.

Unfortunately my cPAP machine won’t fit in the day pack I just bought, it’s a big thing, the entire bag with tubing, cords, plus the machine weighs about 5 pounds. I’ll try a different transport company and make sure to call. I also have an AirTag so it can always be located.

 

[Kathor1]

I got to what I thought was León, it in reality was Puente de Castro

Puente Castro is a barrio of León, a suburb of León. Hence the road sign that can be seen in one of the photos that says "León" and "León Ciudad 30".

The number 30 stands for 30 km/h. In Europe, numerous cities and towns have introduced a 30 km/h speed limit in recent years. It used to be 50 km/h.

As so many other large towns and cities, León has incorporated neighbouring small towns, and the built-up areas have grown so closely together that one can no longer see where one place once ended and the other place once started.

 

[HBS60]

I am reading your posts. Have a look in supermercados for this:

View attachment 177238

If you can tolerate cheese. With a couple of plain biscuits, a banana, an apple... a yogurt drink... off you go, chico!

Got them! There is a súper right across from my hostal, well-stocked with all kinds of goodies.
Question: how long can they stay good in a backpack (same question applies to other suggestions like ham, etc, as I’m concerned about spoilage. Having had food poisoning a couple times, I don’t want to go through that again.

 

[Kirkie]

Got them! There is a súper right across from my hostal, well-stocked with all kinds of goodies.
Question: how long can they stay good in a backpack (same question applies to other suggestions like ham, etc, as I’m concerned about spoilage. Having had food poisoning a couple times, I don’t want to go through that again.

There are about five in a pack. They will be fine, one a day.

Edit: you can share them!