LIVE from the Camino Héctor Walks His Way-Week 3

[HBS60]

Exactly two weeks ago, I started my Camino, so now I begin my third Camino week…
———————————————————-
Belorado to Villafranca Montes De Oca
7.7 miles 12.39 Km

Short day today, walked only to VfMdO because I understood there’s a steep hill after that and a long stretch with nothing, so I figured I would tackle something like that in the morning, not late in the afternoon when I’m hot and tired, and made a reservation. Turns out it’s been a cold, chilly day and I’ve been freezing off my butt all the way. It was 56 F degrees (about 13.3 C degrees).

It was drizzling when I got up and the last thing I wanted was to set out in the cold. Luckily, the Albergue I was staying in had a full restaurant so I indulged in a ham and cheese sandwich and the sacred ritual of Cafe Con Leche.
The rain let up but it was chilly, but I didn’t think I had much of a choice.

Since I was planning a short walk, I packed (crammed) my cPAP machine, and off I went. Thankfully I do have a long- sleeved nylon Tshirt that gives me some insulation when layered with my Merino wool tshirt, but my long convertible hiking pants were deep in my backpack. Hiking with a fully loaded backpack does help stay warm, but I dared not stop as I knew the cold will creep in.

I met an interesting young fellow who was limping badly, so I inquired if he was OK. He said he had a swollen foot on the lateral side, and kept insisting that it was a matter of mind over matter (and pain pills). I tried to point out that he could injure himself more and should have it checked, but he wouldn’t hear about it. Not much I could do, I hope he makes it to Burgos OK.

I ran into my Valencian friend, who was headed back to a prior town because he had forgotten his credential. I was glad to be able to say goodbye in person.

Even though it was foggy, misty, drizzly, it was nice to watch the scenery, perfect for a movie set. I just wish the wind wasn’t as strong, but I’m sure that prior pilgrims, recent and past, had endured worse conditions, so I told myself to quit complaining.

Eventually I got to my Albergue, which is a section of a very nice hotel, although us pilgrims are in separate quarters. To my dismay, she wouldn’t take my credit card payment because they require a minimum of 30 Euros. I did have the 15 euros in cash she wanted, but I was short on cash, and what’s worse, she told me there was no ATM machine in this town or in any other town between Belorado and Burgos. I only had a 5 Euro note left with some coins. A fellow pilgrim had the great idea to ask if I could pay for the bed AND dinner, that would be over 30 euros and she would give me my cash back. She did agree, thankfully, so I felt better.. . .

I called the Albergue I’m planning to stay at tomorrow in Atapuerca, and my heart sank when he told me they don’t take credit cards, but I could pay through Booking.com, fortunately it worked. I tried to get lunch at the bar but they require a 15 euro minimum and whatever lunch I ordered wouldn’t be over that limit. So, I walked to a little Mercado and bought a microwave meal and snacks (I actually wasn’t all that hungry),they took my credit card with no minimum, so I ate and I’m ready for a nap.

Tomorrow, I plan to walk to Atapuerca, which is 11.3 miles-18.2 Km, then the next day walk into Burgos, 12.4 miles-20 Km from Atapuerca.

I’m astounded that exactly two weeks ago, on Sunday August 11, I started my walk from St Jean Pied-De Port. That seems like a lifetime away, and as difficult as it has been at times, somehow I’ve made it this far. Just this morning I reached a marker telling me I have 550 Km left to Santiago, certainly less than two weeks ago.

So I’ll rest for the remainder of the day, and try to let it all sink in.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/DGFpsY22p4DASeVF/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[SioCamino]

Can I recommend the albergue Inpulso in Atapuerca, the loveliest Albergue I've stayed in so far on this camino (I'm a few days ahead of you). You can contact Estella the hospitalera by WhatsApp - details on gronze.

 

[J Willhaus]

Despite what others may say, Cash is still relevant on the Camino. It's good to get more at the next opportunity.

 

[HBS60]

Despite what others may say, Cash is still relevant on the Camino. It's good to get more at the next opportunity.

I think I’ve been overusing my cash over my card.

 

[HBS60]

Can I recommend the albergue Inpulso in Atapuerca, the loveliest Albergue I've stayed in so far on this camino (I'm a few days ahead of you). You can contact Estella the hospitalera by WhatsApp - details on gronze.

Argh, I just saw this too late, I already booked a different place, but thanks anyway!

 

[trecile]

Argh, I just saw this too late, I already booked a different place, but thanks anyway!

Wherever you have a bed will be exactly the right place to sleep.

Warning - I stayed in Atapuerca on a Monday this year, and three out of four restaurants in town were closed on Mondays. There is a bar where you can get food all day, but I don't know if they take credit cards. If you want to eat at the restaurant at Hotel Papasol go there as soon as you get to town and make a reservation, as they fill up with hotel guests.

I'm sorry that you got caught out on the cash situation. I don't know if you will find an ATM before Burgos.

Hopefully, you will be able to pay for breakfast and lunch with your credit card. With the minimum CC requirement maybe you can pay for a couple of other pilgrims and they can pay you in cash.

From now on, replenish your cash when you get down to about 100€.
I think that many of us have been in your situation on our first Caminos since we are used to paying with credit cards or having easy access to ATMs at home.

 

[TravellingMan22]

Despite what others may say, Cash is still relevant on the Camino. It's good to get more at the next opportunity.

Indeed! I have had three times when I had to use cash this week. 1) €20 minimum. 2) card blocked as my bank thought the bar was a gambling site! 3) cash only bar.

 

[HBS60]

Wherever you have a bed will be exactly the right place to sleep.

Warning - I stayed in Atapuerca on a Monday this year, and three out of four restaurants in town were closed on Mondays. There is a bar where you can get food all day, but I don't know if they take credit cards. If you want to eat at the restaurant at Hotel Papasol go there as soon as you get to town and make a reservation, as they fill up with hotel guests.

I'm sorry that you got caught out on the cash situation. I don't know if you will find an ATM before Burgos.

Hopefully, you will be able to pay for breakfast and lunch with your credit card. With the minimum CC requirement maybe you can pay for a couple of other pilgrims and they can pay you in cash.

From now on, replenish your cash when you get down to about 100€.
I think that many of us have been in your situation on our first Caminos since we are used to paying with credit cards or having easy access to ATMs at home.

Thanks for the heads up. I was told there aren’t any ATMs until Villafría, but I’m not counting on that. I do have snacks packed in case they are needed.
I plan to stop tomorrow at Atapuerca, then the next day I plan to make it to Burgos, so I imagine tomorrow night would be the worst, hopefully I might find something before, but I guess I’ll find out. I wasn’t keeping track of my cash Euros and was down to 20 € plus change. I’ll be more careful from now on.

 

[BarbaraW]

Oh, Hector. You've cracked the walking, you've cracked the food and you're about to crack the money bit! It is such a pleasure to follow your progress.
I hope you are feeling proud of yourself.

 

[LSab]

I totally agree with BarbaraW... you are inspiring and educating those of us who are heading to our first Camino soon. Thank you for sharing your journey - the highs and lows, the lessons and the details that have truly helped me prepare for my walk. Sending so many well wishes to you Hector!

 

[Bill905]

Héctor - a couple of suggestions if you find yourself short on cash. 1. If there are other pilgrims with cash, collect their cash and pay for their bed with your card. I have had to do that once or twice. 2. Ask the albergue owner if they would be willing to charge you more, and give you back some cash. Buen Camino!

 

[Colokid]

Exactly two weeks ago, I started my Camino, so now I begin my third Camino week…
———————————————————-
Belorado to Villafranca Montes De Oca
7.7 miles 12.39 Km

Short day today, walked only to VfMdO because I understood there’s a steep hill after that and a long stretch with nothing, so I figured I would tackle something like that in the morning, not late in the afternoon when I’m hot and tired, and made a reservation. Turns out it’s been a cold, chilly day and I’ve been freezing off my butt all the way. It was 56 F degrees (about 13.3 C degrees).

It was drizzling when I got up and the last thing I wanted was to set out in the cold. Luckily, the Albergue I was staying in had a full restaurant so I indulged in a ham and cheese sandwich and the sacred ritual of Cafe Con Leche.
The rain let up but it was chilly, but I didn’t think I had much of a choice.

Since I was planning a short walk, I packed (crammed) my cPAP machine, and off I went. Thankfully I do have a long- sleeved nylon Tshirt that gives me some insulation when layered with my Merino wool tshirt, but my long convertible hiking pants were deep in my backpack. Hiking with a fully loaded backpack does help stay warm, but I dared not stop as I knew the cold will creep in.

I met an interesting young fellow who was limping badly, so I inquired if he was OK. He said he had a swollen foot on the lateral side, and kept insisting that it was a matter of mind over matter (and pain pills). I tried to point out that he could injure himself more and should have it checked, but he wouldn’t hear about it. Not much I could do, I hope he makes it to Burgos OK.

I ran into my Valencian friend, who was headed back to a prior town because he had forgotten his credential. I was glad to be able to say goodbye in person.

Even though it was foggy, misty, drizzly, it was nice to watch the scenery, perfect for a movie set. I just wish the wind wasn’t as strong, but I’m sure that prior pilgrims, recent and past, had endured worse conditions, so I told myself to quit complaining.

Eventually I got to my Albergue, which is a section of a very nice hotel, although us pilgrims are in separate quarters. To my dismay, she wouldn’t take my credit card payment because they require a minimum of 30 Euros. I did have the 15 euros in cash she wanted, but I was short on cash, and what’s worse, she told me there was no ATM machine in this town or in any other town between Belorado and Burgos. I only had a 5 Euro note left with some coins. A fellow pilgrim had the great idea to ask if I could pay for the bed AND dinner, that would be over 30 euros and she would give me my cash back. She did agree, thankfully, so I felt better.. . .

I called the Albergue I’m planning to stay at tomorrow in Atapuerca, and my heart sank when he told me they don’t take credit cards, but I could pay through Booking.com, fortunately it worked. I tried to get lunch at the bar but they require a 15 euro minimum and whatever lunch I ordered wouldn’t be over that limit. So, I walked to a little Mercado and bought a microwave meal and snacks (I actually wasn’t all that hungry),they took my credit card with no minimum, so I ate and I’m ready for a nap.

Tomorrow, I plan to walk to Atapuerca, which is 11.3 miles-18.2 Km, then the next day walk into Burgos, 12.4 miles-20 Km from Atapuerca.

I’m astounded that exactly two weeks ago, on Sunday August 11, I started my walk from St Jean Pied-De Port. That seems like a lifetime away, and as difficult as it has been at times, somehow I’ve made it this far. Just this morning I reached a marker telling me I have 550 Km left to Santiago, certainly less than two weeks ago.

So I’ll rest for the remainder of the day, and try to let it all sink in.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/DGFpsY22p4DASeVF/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Thanks for your posts Hector! Through them I'm reliving the apprehensions and excitement of my April adventure. The start seems daunting, but day by day-- with a hope for wellness -- is how we go, and then see the accomplishments and greeat memories in our rear view.

 

[HBS60]

Villafranca Montes De Oca to Atapuerca
11.8 miles 18.9 Km

I left my albergue early because I knew I had a steep mountain to climb. Despite my efforts to leave early, a whole bunch of Pilgtims had already left. I didn’t want to buy breakfast because that would have delayed me, but I did have a sip of instant coffee another pilgrim offered me, and I have bought some snacks just so I could have something to eat in the morning.

It was still dark when I left, as it seems daybreak is coming later and later. I have a headlamp but it’s packed deep in my backpack god knows where, so I just followed another pilgrim who had a light, but eventually he was gone, so I used my iPhone light. I knew soon enough I’d have daylight so I wasn’t too worried. There was only one possible path so I couldn’t get lost, I just needed to be mindful of the terrain.

It was very chilly, so I had dressed in layers and my long hiking pants. As I started the long, hard climb, I was starting to get overheated, so eventually I took off my long sleeved shirt and the hiking pants (I had regular shorts underneath). I was cold but not horribly so, and as long as I kept walking, I was OK.

I passed by a somber memorial, a mass grave of persons executed during the Spanish Civil War. Despite the cold, I paused trying to honor the victims of those terrible years, unable to comprehend the horror, grief and pain of those that suffered such a horrible fate, as well as those who witnessed and survived all of this. Humans still have so much learning to do…

I resumed my walking. Eventually I spotted a little food stand in the distance, and could hear music. The man tending to the stand was named Ángel, and he was running this on a donation basis. He said he just wanted to make this world a better place. He had a very warm, kind disposition, gave me some coffee, recited a poem he had composed, talked about Spanish literature, mentioning a picaresque novel I’ve read in high school, Lazarillo Del Tormes, brought a flood of memories. He said he used to be a judge and a Templar (is that still a thing?). He cheerfully posed for a selfie, and I was soon on my way. I did leave him 1 Euro as a donation which would cover the little cup of coffee, but I wish I had been more generous.

It was still cold, with no signs of clearing up, but at least the visibility was OK. Eventually I reached the point of highest elevation, then started the “descent” to San Juan de Ortega, which while generally downhill, still had a few uphills as well. When I reached SJDO, a Frenchman gentleman caught up with me. He spoke some English and we wound up having breakfast together, I had a tortilla and coffee, much needed. He went on ahead, I followed later.

Slowly, the day started to clear. I passed through farmland and sunflower fields, and soon I could see the towns of Agés and Atapuerca down in the valley.
I needed to use the bathroom, so I stopped at Agés for a snack, but it was under their 5 € minimum, so I bought a ham and cheese bocadillo, the thing was gigantic so I wound up taking it with me. I did use the BR, so that was one less worry. Atapuerca was just 2.4 Km away, but I couldn’t help but marvel at the entrance to Agés with so many flowers and decorations.

It was already noon, the skies were now a piercing blue, I could see the mountains in the distance. The temperature was very pleasant, probably in the 70s F (20s C). The path led me on the side of the highway, and I had the most pleasant arrival to any town so far. I wasn’t hot, exhausted, or overwhelmed, my feet were a little sore, but that was about it. I’ve walked about 6.5 hours and felt fine, despite the effort climbing the mountain in the morning.

I checked in to my Hostel, a very (very, very) rustic facility, charming in its own way but a bit cramped. The hostelier never got my message that I needed to be close to a plug for my cPAP machine. He brought some extension cords but it was a bit unwieldy, so he talked to another pilgrim about switching bunks and he agreed, although it was a bit of a noisy kerfuffle, as I tried to collect my things, annoying those pilgrims trying to take their afternoon naps. Now hopefully I’m finally all settled in.

Tomorrow, I plan to go to Burgos, and I might stay an extra day to rest and sightsee, as I think I can still be on track to get where I want to without running out of time.

Where should I stay in Burgos?

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/B9DrV5EAY7YmPQ35/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[JerryStroebele]

The municipal albergue in Burgos is large, clean, nice and in the center of Old Town, near the cathedral. Buen Camino

 

[ScouseKeith]

You can pick up hotels in Burgos for under thirty euros a night and if you’re staying a couple of days there’s nothing better than relaxing

 

[jblaskovits]

Villafranca Montes De Oca to Atapuerca
11.8 miles 18.9 Km

I left my albergue early because I knew I had a steep mountain to climb. Despite my efforts to leave early, a whole bunch of Pilgtims had already left. I didn’t want to buy breakfast because that would have delayed me, but I did have a sip of instant coffee another pilgrim offered me, and I have bought some snacks just so I could have something to eat in the morning.

It was still dark when I left, as it seems daybreak is coming later and later. I have a headlamp but it’s packed deep in my backpack god knows where, so I just followed another pilgrim who had a light, but eventually he was gone, so I used my iPhone light. I knew soon enough I’d have daylight so I wasn’t too worried. There was only one possible path so I couldn’t get lost, I just needed to be mindful of the terrain.

It was very chilly, so I had dressed in layers and my long hiking pants. As I started the long, hard climb, I was starting to get overheated, so eventually I took off my long sleeved shirt and the hiking pants (I had regular shorts underneath). I was cold but not horribly so, and as long as I kept walking, I was OK.

I passed by a somber memorial, a mass grave of persons executed during the Spanish Civil War. Despite the cold, I paused trying to honor the victims of those terrible years, unable to comprehend the horror, grief and pain of those that suffered such a horrible fate, as well as those who witnessed and survived all of this. Humans still have so much learning to do…

I resumed my walking. Eventually I spotted a little food stand in the distance, and could hear music. The man tending to the stand was named Ángel, and he was running this on a donation basis. He said he just wanted to make this world a better place. He had a very warm, kind disposition, gave me some coffee, recited a poem he had composed, talked about Spanish literature, mentioning a picaresque novel I’ve read in high school, Lazarillo Del Tormes, brought a flood of memories. He said he used to be a judge and a Templar (is that still a thing?). He cheerfully posed for a selfie, and I was soon on my way. I did leave him 1 Euro as a donation which would cover the little cup of coffee, but I wish I had been more generous.

It was still cold, with no signs of clearing up, but at least the visibility was OK. Eventually I reached the point of highest elevation, then started the “descent” to San Juan de Ortega, which while generally downhill, still had a few uphills as well. When I reached SJDO, a Frenchman gentleman caught up with me. He spoke some English and we wound up having breakfast together, I had a tortilla and coffee, much needed. He went on ahead, I followed later.

Slowly, the day started to clear. I passed through farmland and sunflower fields, and soon I could see the towns of Agés and Atapuerca down in the valley.
I needed to use the bathroom, so I stopped at Agés for a snack, but it was under their 5 € minimum, so I bought a ham and cheese bocadillo, the thing was gigantic so I wound up taking it with me. I did use the BR, so that was one less worry. Atapuerca was just 2.4 Km away, but I couldn’t help but marvel at the entrance to Agés with so many flowers and decorations.

It was already noon, the skies were now a piercing blue, I could see the mountains in the distance. The temperature was very pleasant, probably in the 70s F (20s C). The path led me on the side of the highway, and I had the most pleasant arrival to any town so far. I wasn’t hot, exhausted, or overwhelmed, my feet were a little sore, but that was about it. I’ve walked about 6.5 hours and felt fine, despite the effort climbing the mountain in the morning.

I checked in to my Hostel, a very (very, very) rustic facility, charming in its own way but a bit cramped. The hostelier never got my message that I needed to be close to a plug for my cPAP machine. He brought some extension cords but it was a bit unwieldy, so he talked to another pilgrim about switching bunks and he agreed, although it was a bit of a noisy kerfuffle, as I tried to collect my things, annoying those pilgrims trying to take their afternoon naps. Now hopefully I’m finally all settled in.

Tomorrow, I plan to go to Burgos, and I might stay an extra day to rest and sightsee, as I think I can still be on track to get where I want to without running out of time.

Where should I stay in Burgos?

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/B9DrV5EAY7YmPQ35/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Hector I am enjoying your posts and they bring back so many memories of my first Camino, at this time of the year in 2015. The municipal albergue in Burgos is large and not terribly warm but very clean and in a convenient location. I remember sleeping very well there! Enjoy your day off if you decide to have a rest day there. The cathedral is beautiful.

 

[donalomahony]

Hi, the municipal is fine, I have stayed there many times, but if you wish to splash out consider...

Hotel en el Centro de Burgos Hotel Norte Y Londres

Como hotel en el centro de Burgos, en Hotel Norte Y Londres tienes todo lo que necesitas para conocer esta ciudad en pocos días sin coger el coche. ¡Llámanos!

www.hotelnorteylondres.es

Many of us on the Forum have stayed there and they understand Pilgrim needs. It is also "on the Camino".

Room only is fine. Have your cafe con lecce in the Square looking at the Cathedral...

Stay as close to the Cathedral as you can and certainly in the old town.

 

[J Willhaus]

If you stay an extra day, I would get a hotel room so you don't have to be out by 8 am and carry your stuff around until the albergue re-opens.

 

[CWBuff]

Oh I'm so glad that Angel still runs his food stand on top of te hill. Couple of months ago there were reports that the whole place was thrashed....
Enjoy Burgos no matter where you stay; take a day or 2 off do touristy things. Visit The Cathedral and Citadel and walk the streets of old Town.
Well done Pilgrim. The Meseta slowly starts to beckon....

 

[CWBuff]

If you stay an extra day, I would get a hotel room so you don't have to be out by 8 am and carry your stuff around until the albergue re-opens.

I stayed at Hostal Corrales which is a private Hostal/Albergue in a private room. They allow multiple days stays

 

[James van Hemert]

Oh I remember this stretch in 2022! So well described. I too stayed awhile to reflect at the haunting memorial. Your inability to grab your headlamp because it was in the bottom of the pack reminded me of the packing practice I developed on the Camino: every item had its own place based on need and convenience...the same every day. My pack had enough zippers and pockets to make this work. Took a bit of discipline to establish but saved a lot of time and frustration.

 

[Camo]

Villafranca Montes De Oca to Atapuerca
11.8 miles 18.9 Km

Spot on my google route and now at 65% speed of the google no smella da roses (or sunflowers) speed so looks like IMHO you have firmly established this speed to suit your own "Camino style"

 

[walkingagain]

Exactly two weeks ago, I started my Camino, so now I begin my third Camino week…
———————————————————-
Belorado to Villafranca Montes De Oca
7.7 miles 12.39 Km

Short day today, walked only to VfMdO because I understood there’s a steep hill after that and a long stretch with nothing, so I figured I would tackle something like that in the morning, not late in the afternoon when I’m hot and tired, and made a reservation. Turns out it’s been a cold, chilly day and I’ve been freezing off my butt all the way. It was 56 F degrees (about 13.3 C degrees).

It was drizzling when I got up and the last thing I wanted was to set out in the cold. Luckily, the Albergue I was staying in had a full restaurant so I indulged in a ham and cheese sandwich and the sacred ritual of Cafe Con Leche.
The rain let up but it was chilly, but I didn’t think I had much of a choice.

Since I was planning a short walk, I packed (crammed) my cPAP machine, and off I went. Thankfully I do have a long- sleeved nylon Tshirt that gives me some insulation when layered with my Merino wool tshirt, but my long convertible hiking pants were deep in my backpack. Hiking with a fully loaded backpack does help stay warm, but I dared not stop as I knew the cold will creep in.

I met an interesting young fellow who was limping badly, so I inquired if he was OK. He said he had a swollen foot on the lateral side, and kept insisting that it was a matter of mind over matter (and pain pills). I tried to point out that he could injure himself more and should have it checked, but he wouldn’t hear about it. Not much I could do, I hope he makes it to Burgos OK.

I ran into my Valencian friend, who was headed back to a prior town because he had forgotten his credential. I was glad to be able to say goodbye in person.

Even though it was foggy, misty, drizzly, it was nice to watch the scenery, perfect for a movie set. I just wish the wind wasn’t as strong, but I’m sure that prior pilgrims, recent and past, had endured worse conditions, so I told myself to quit complaining.

Eventually I got to my Albergue, which is a section of a very nice hotel, although us pilgrims are in separate quarters. To my dismay, she wouldn’t take my credit card payment because they require a minimum of 30 Euros. I did have the 15 euros in cash she wanted, but I was short on cash, and what’s worse, she told me there was no ATM machine in this town or in any other town between Belorado and Burgos. I only had a 5 Euro note left with some coins. A fellow pilgrim had the great idea to ask if I could pay for the bed AND dinner, that would be over 30 euros and she would give me my cash back. She did agree, thankfully, so I felt better.. . .

I called the Albergue I’m planning to stay at tomorrow in Atapuerca, and my heart sank when he told me they don’t take credit cards, but I could pay through Booking.com, fortunately it worked. I tried to get lunch at the bar but they require a 15 euro minimum and whatever lunch I ordered wouldn’t be over that limit. So, I walked to a little Mercado and bought a microwave meal and snacks (I actually wasn’t all that hungry),they took my credit card with no minimum, so I ate and I’m ready for a nap.

Tomorrow, I plan to walk to Atapuerca, which is 11.3 miles-18.2 Km, then the next day walk into Burgos, 12.4 miles-20 Km from Atapuerca.

I’m astounded that exactly two weeks ago, on Sunday August 11, I started my walk from St Jean Pied-De Port. That seems like a lifetime away, and as difficult as it has been at times, somehow I’ve made it this far. Just this morning I reached a marker telling me I have 550 Km left to Santiago, certainly less than two weeks ago.

So I’ll rest for the remainder of the day, and try to let it all sink in.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/DGFpsY22p4DASeVF/?mibextid=WC7FNe

I highly recommend dinner at Casa Rural Papasol in Atapuerca! They are very kind and the food wonderful. When Mom and I walked into Atapuerca this April our reservation for a pension had fallen through and we called around town to find a place to stay. Casa Rural Papasol was fully booked but they were kind enough to call people in the village and found us a place to stay! We went back for dinner there that night and had an excellent meal and a great breakfast the next day.

Buen camino!

 

[Cicada]

Exactly two weeks ago, I started my Camino, so now I begin my third Camino week…
———————————————————-
Belorado to Villafranca Montes De Oca
7.7 miles 12.39 Km

Short day today, walked only to VfMdO because I understood there’s a steep hill after that and a long stretch with nothing, so I figured I would tackle something like that in the morning, not late in the afternoon when I’m hot and tired, and made a reservation. Turns out it’s been a cold, chilly day and I’ve been freezing off my butt all the way. It was 56 F degrees (about 13.3 C degrees).

It was drizzling when I got up and the last thing I wanted was to set out in the cold. Luckily, the Albergue I was staying in had a full restaurant so I indulged in a ham and cheese sandwich and the sacred ritual of Cafe Con Leche.
The rain let up but it was chilly, but I didn’t think I had much of a choice.

Since I was planning a short walk, I packed (crammed) my cPAP machine, and off I went. Thankfully I do have a long- sleeved nylon Tshirt that gives me some insulation when layered with my Merino wool tshirt, but my long convertible hiking pants were deep in my backpack. Hiking with a fully loaded backpack does help stay warm, but I dared not stop as I knew the cold will creep in.

I met an interesting young fellow who was limping badly, so I inquired if he was OK. He said he had a swollen foot on the lateral side, and kept insisting that it was a matter of mind over matter (and pain pills). I tried to point out that he could injure himself more and should have it checked, but he wouldn’t hear about it. Not much I could do, I hope he makes it to Burgos OK.

I ran into my Valencian friend, who was headed back to a prior town because he had forgotten his credential. I was glad to be able to say goodbye in person.

Even though it was foggy, misty, drizzly, it was nice to watch the scenery, perfect for a movie set. I just wish the wind wasn’t as strong, but I’m sure that prior pilgrims, recent and past, had endured worse conditions, so I told myself to quit complaining.

Eventually I got to my Albergue, which is a section of a very nice hotel, although us pilgrims are in separate quarters. To my dismay, she wouldn’t take my credit card payment because they require a minimum of 30 Euros. I did have the 15 euros in cash she wanted, but I was short on cash, and what’s worse, she told me there was no ATM machine in this town or in any other town between Belorado and Burgos. I only had a 5 Euro note left with some coins. A fellow pilgrim had the great idea to ask if I could pay for the bed AND dinner, that would be over 30 euros and she would give me my cash back. She did agree, thankfully, so I felt better.. . .

I called the Albergue I’m planning to stay at tomorrow in Atapuerca, and my heart sank when he told me they don’t take credit cards, but I could pay through Booking.com, fortunately it worked. I tried to get lunch at the bar but they require a 15 euro minimum and whatever lunch I ordered wouldn’t be over that limit. So, I walked to a little Mercado and bought a microwave meal and snacks (I actually wasn’t all that hungry),they took my credit card with no minimum, so I ate and I’m ready for a nap.

Tomorrow, I plan to walk to Atapuerca, which is 11.3 miles-18.2 Km, then the next day walk into Burgos, 12.4 miles-20 Km from Atapuerca.

I’m astounded that exactly two weeks ago, on Sunday August 11, I started my walk from St Jean Pied-De Port. That seems like a lifetime away, and as difficult as it has been at times, somehow I’ve made it this far. Just this morning I reached a marker telling me I have 550 Km left to Santiago, certainly less than two weeks ago.

So I’ll rest for the remainder of the day, and try to let it all sink in.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/DGFpsY22p4DASeVF/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Welcome back Hector I thought we'd lost you! I've missed your forum posts ( I don't do F/B) Cash is king in country Spain
Buen Camino

 

[VNwalking]

Go, Hector, go!
Soon in Burgos! I've only ever stayed in the Municipal. Once I stayed 2 days in succession and they let me store my pack in a closet they had for that purpose.
(The albergue was really nice the first time, the second was a bit less nice because of some drunk young pilgrims on my floor...not something that's the fault of the albergue.)

 

[HBS60]

Burgos!

BURGOS!!!

I’M IN BURGOS!!!!!!!

 

[Anhalter]

If you stay an extra day and care for a treat, consider this restaurant. I've been told it is one of the best places to have lamb. Unfortunately I did not find the time myself

Asador Los Trillos · C. Don Juan de Austria, 20, 09001 Burgos, Spain

âââââ · Grill

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[HBS60]

Welcome back Hector I thought we'd lost you! I've missed your forum posts ( I don't do F/B) Cash is king in country Spain
Buen Camino

I’ve been here, posting like crazy! I copy and paste the text of my FB posts, plus a link to the FB post so those interested can see the pics. They are set on Public do people inside or outside FB can see them.

Thanks for the welcome back, tho!

 

[HBS60]

Oh I'm so glad that Angel still runs his food stand on top of te hill. Couple of months ago there were reports that the whole place was thrashed....
Enjoy Burgos no matter where you stay; take a day or 2 off do touristy things. Visit The Cathedral and Citadel and walk the streets of old Town.
Well done Pilgrim. The Meseta slowly starts to beckon....

I think he is at a different location just several hundred meters away. From what I’ve seen in You Tube, there were benches and other structures but now he just has a table next to his car. A little further ahead I saw what I think was the original place, with items possibly placed by others, but I could be wrong. I took pics but didn’t post them on FB as part of my story since I don’t know, maybe someone here might be able to tell.

 

[Kathor1]

I think he is at a different location just several hundred meters away. From what I’ve seen in You Tube, there were benches and other structures but now he just has a table next to his car. A little further ahead I saw what I think was the original place, with items possibly placed by others, but I could be wrong. I took pics but didn’t post them on FB as part of my story since I don’t know, maybe someone here might be able to tell.

The photos that you posted show a place that was known as "El Oasis del Camino". It was created by two local people. Unfortunately, it was destroyed several months ago, apparently by a local person. One of the two initiators of this place wants to rebuilt it in the future but it has not yet been possible.

The food stand is a separate entity and it is managed by a different third person.

 

[HBS60]

Atapuerca to Burgos
13.3 miles 21.4 Km

Last evening, I had a great conversation with fellow Pilgrim Tony from Australia. He is a very kind man who inspired trust to the point that my entire life story came out, not just bits and pieces. He was extremely supportive so I went to sleep feeling blessed.

This morning, I set out very early ,about 6:10 AM, daybreak still an hour away. A group of very, very early riser pilgrims had already left. I did remember to take my headlamp. I knew I had a steep climb up early in the morning. The headlamp did help, and soon I was struggling with the climb and rocky terrain. I came up upon a pile of fresh cow dung, which unnerved me, because I figured there was a cow or cows) on the loose, not a good thing when I’m alone in the dark up a mountain. To my horror, I heard a cowbell off to my right, but even with the headlamp, I could not see any animal, from the sound it seemed very close. Another Pilgrim passed by me, seemingly unconcerned, so I decided to just keep going. Eventually the sound subsided so I felt better, but had difficulty negotiating the rough terrain. Thankfully, I could see daylight, the horizon now casting a reddish glow bringing with it the promise of a glorious sunrise.

As I’m trying to figure out where the heck was the trail among all the rocks, a young lady called me from behind, in halting Spanish, “me puede scompañar? estoy asustada” (can you stay with me, I’m scared) - or something to that effect. She later told me she had heard the same cowbell.

Her name is Hannah, a delightful Irish young woman. We were now on top of the mountain, and used our apps to find the trail, while witnessing a glorious sunrise. I knew that on clear days Burgos was visible, but there was a haze down in the valley so I couldn’t be sure.

Daylight arrived as we were climbing down the mountain, and we since we were both going to Burgos, we decided to stick together, having coffee breaks in a couple towns. We worked well together on the challenging spots on the trail, while admiring the scenery and talking about our countries. It was a most pleasant walk, particularly since we took the alternate variant by the airport and into the river walk.

We finally arrived at Burgos around 1:20 PM and took a selfie, which she gave me permission to post. We parted company and I went to check into the Hostal, showered, napped, did my laundry, and ran into Janet from Denmark, whom I’ve met on Orisson, so we had a drink to celebrate the occasion. Later that afternoon I ran into Jim from Australia, and a French lady whom I’ve met in Viana who spoke very good Spanish.

I had dinner and a short stroll around the Cathedral, and I’m going to rest tomorrow to let all of this sink in.

I can’t believe I walked all the way from SJPDP to Burgos. Despite the hardships, I’ve enjoyed the interactions with so many interesting people, no small feat for an introvert like me

I’m sure there will be more experiences in the future.

FB link for pics

Hector Barreto

Atapuerca to Burgos 13.3 miles 21.4 Km Last evening, I had a great conversation with fellow Pilgrim Tony from Australia. He is a very kind man who inspired trust to the point that my entire life...

www.facebook.com

 

[donalomahony]

Wonderful!

 

[CWBuff]

A wholeheartedly congratulations!!!!
You are getting out early enough organizing your pack and working/meeting with other Pilgrims. You are talking with them and looks like forgetting all about anything negative while at it
You are taking g breaks with some substance included
You are making into your destination within 7-8 hours walking on average slightly over 20km
What an awesome achievement and a difference from just 2 weeks ago!!
Enjoy your time in Burgis. Like I said go do some touristy things and eat some awesome food
YOU ARE IN BURGOS AMIGO!!!

 

[Camo]

plus a link to the FB post

Yes that works well for individual days (except today where link is not there) but is there a "home" page on fb where we can go directly to catch up on earlier posts?

 

[HBS60]

Yes that works well for individual days (except today where link is not there) but is there a "home" page on fb where we can go directly to catch up on earlier posts?

I forgot to include the link, now it’s added. You can also click on my profile pic and you should be able to get to my home page, but here is a link to my profile page:

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

 

[Camo]

here is a link to my profile page:

Thanks Hector, that is way easier

 

[HBS60]

Question:
How difficult is the terrain between Burgos and Hornillos del Camino, particularly the uphill after Rabé de las Calzadas? It looks we might be getting rain on and off tomorrow and the next several days, at least in Burgos, and I’m concerned that some of the weather might be stormy. I don’t mind walking in the rain as I have a poncho, but I’m not sure what to expect, whether to modify my plans.
Thanks in advance!

 

[trecile]

How difficult is the terrain between Burgos and Hornillos del Camino,

I don't think that you will find the terrain a problem at all on this stage.

 

[CWBuff]

Short of Castrojeriz (still looming ahead of you ) you're done with HILLS hills for a while.
If and when in doubt just take it slow...
Heck, Hector, you're a PRO now

 

[jungleboy]

Short of Castrojeriz (still looming ahead of you ) you're done with HILLS hills for a while.

There's a little one after Castrojeriz though

 

[ScouseKeith]

Question:
How difficult is the terrain between Burgos and Hornillos del Camino, particularly the uphill after Rabé de las Calzadas? It looks we might be getting rain on and off tomorrow and the next several days, at least in Burgos, and I’m concerned that some of the weather might be stormy. I don’t mind walking in the rain as I have a poncho, but I’m not sure what to expect, whether to modify my plans.
Thanks in advance!

There is a climb after rabe but just take it slow and easy and it’s not too strenuous. In advance if you intend staying in Castrozuares Albergue Julia is a dream. They have proper beds great facilities and do a really good pilgrim meal and breakfast early enough so not to delay your start I’ve used it five times and never been disappointed it’s worth considering. Keith

 

[HBS60]

Copied and pasted from my FB page

Pilgrim musings on a day off…

I’m trying to absorb the fact that I walked from France all the way to Burgos, crossing the Pyrenees, Navarra, La Rioja, and I’m now in Castilla León. It was very hard, certainly not the easy stroll that sometimes gets portrayed. What comes up for me is the question of why, exactly, am I doing this, and I struggle to come up with an honest answer. Yes, I do have reasons, some of them very good reasons (like grieving and letting go), but there is something else I can’t pinpoint, so I just go with the flow.

I think of those pilgrims of antiquity, that walked this way out of sheer devotion, something I don’t have. While I do not embrace religious dogma, I am mindful that this is a religious pilgrimage for many, and I marvel at how faith has sustained pilgrims for centuries. They didn’t have GPS, phones, emails, apps, or even yellow arrows, yet somehow they trudged along. When I remember this, I shut up about the difficulties I encounter along the way.

I paid a visit to the Burgos Cathedral, an astonishing architectural, sculptural, and artistic expression of faith, amazingly built centuries before our modern technology. I do find it difficult to reconcile all this beauty and splendor with some of the choices the church had made, resulting in the suffering of fellow human beings. While I do not wish to invalidate the sincerity and good intentions of believers, there are things I can’t wrap my head around. Maybe, as I continue my walk, I might get some clarity around some of these things.

It took me a while, but I finally found the final resting place of El Cid and Doña Jimena. As I was searching for it, I asked two ladies, who were from Valencia and they thought Cid was buried in Valencia, understandable because during the Reconquista, he was involved in epic battles in places like Zaragoza and Valencia. I finally found the place, but the inscription was difficult to read as it was somewhat faded, the light wasn’t the best, neither are my eyes, and it was in (what I think was) Latin. Regardless, this is a place of great significance in Spanish history, and it gave the Valencian ladies goosebumps, like I had watching the overwhelming magnificence of this place.

After visiting the church, I had a light lunch, and took a stroll around the neighborhood. I’m sure there are plenty of things to see and do, but I’m still tired and don’t have the energy to be a tourist, and this is not the purpose of my walk. I did buy a few souvenirs, as lightweight as I could because I’ll have to carry them in my backpack all the way to Santiago. I can always buy more when I get there, but I still have ways to go.

We are supposed to get rain tomorrow, so I am trying to prepare for a wet, chilly day, and not every day can be sunny. I do feel I’m adapting to the Camino, and I hope I can keep going until I reach Santiago. In the meantime, I must go onwards…

FB link for pics

Hector Barreto

Pilgrim musings on a day off… I’m trying to absorb the fact that I walked from France all the way to Burgos, crossing the Pyrenees, Navarra, La Rioja, and I’m now in Castilla León. It was very hard,...

www.facebook.com

 

[trecile]

What comes up for me is the question of why, exactly, am I doing this, and I struggle to come up with an honest answer. Yes, I do have reasons, some of them very good reasons (like grieving and letting go), but there is something else I can’t pinpoint, so I just go with the flow.

Just accept that not all questions require an answer.

 

[CWBuff]

There's a little one after Castrojeriz though

Yeah Nick, that's what I meant. (i.e. the one after Castrojeriz which Hector still needs to conquer but then no more crazy hills for a while)
Actually I know that folks bemoaned that hill...IIRC it's 12% gradient, but it wasn't "horribly bad" for me; not easy mind you but quite doable

 

[CWBuff]

@HBS60- Hector just FYI the inscription on El Cid's tomb is in Latin and translates to, “Brave and unconquered, famous in triumphs of war, lies in this tomb, Roderick the Great of Vivar.”

 

[Camo]

They didn’t have GPS, phones, emails, apps, or even yellow arrows, yet somehow they trudged along

AND back as well as there were no planes

 

[Camo]

Just accept that not all questions require an answer.

Agreed but (for better or for worse) it seems the human condition has never let us stop looking for answers

 

[ScouseKeith]

Yeah Nick, that's what I meant. (i.e. the one after Castrojeriz which Hector still needs to conquer but then no more crazy hills for a while)
Actually I know that folks bemoaned that hill...IIRC it's 12% gradient, but it wasn't "horribly bad" for me; not easy mind you but quite doable

I know it’s quite steep but it’s only 1km long and walking it first thing in the morning is incredible. If you leave earlier before dawn you should reach the top just as the sun comes up, last year it looked like I was on another planet, the sun was so red it was beautiful to watch.

 

[CWBuff]

...walking it first thing in the morning is incredible. If you leave earlier before dawn you should reach the top just as the sun comes up, last year it looked like I was on another planet, the sun was so red it was beautiful to watch.

Arise Ye Sun of Auster.... Castrojeriz

CWBuff traveled in 18 countries. Explore the travels of CWBuff on FindPenguins.

findpenguins.com

B

▶ VIDEO – Probably mid-way through.....

findpenguins.com

@HBS60 - Hector, in Castrojeriz- if you can't get into Albergue mentioned before try Albergue Orion. Nice folks and great Billimbob communal dinner.
Then if you make your way to Fromista go eat dinner at El Chiringuito Del Cam. Darn best Iberian ribs ever!!!!

Fomista dinner at El Chiringuito Del Cam

Some acetunas for an appetizer Iberian ribs and fries Kamisam and Anita from Malaysia

findpenguins.com

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Short of Castrojeriz (still looming ahead of you ) you're done with HILLS hills for a while.

Here's what you'll be looking at. It doesn't get worse, in fact once you reach the top and get your breath again you walk back down it on the other side.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/camino-photos/altos-de-mostelares-july-2014.1667/

 

[Kirkie]

Here's what you'll be looking at. It doesn't get worse, in fact once you reach the top and get your breath again you walk back down it on the other side.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/camino-photos/altos-de-mostelares-july-2014.1667/

When did that bridge construction appear? I only recall a path up (2006) that took me 17 minutes, two breaths in two breaths out, no stopping! I did not dare. And on the way down, a gentleman from Colombia was swinging along with his wheeled suitcase... some things sit hidden till there is a prompt!

 

[HBS60]

I made it to Hornillos, will write my FB post later. I was more worried about possible rough weather, but we just got rain, which helped keep things cool. After that last hill after Rabé, the spectacular view down to Hornillos made it worth the effort.

 

[HBS60]

Copied and pasted from my FB post:

Burgos to Hornillos Del Camino, 13.3 miles 21.4 Km

We were expecting rain, and more worrisome, thunderstorms, even as early as 5-6 AM. I tried to leave early because the worst of the weather would be in the afternoon. Sure enough, the streets of Burgos were wet, but it wasn’t raining when I was stepping out. I wasn’t expecting to find anything open at that hour, so I had a snack for that possibility. Luckily, I found an open bar just up the street from my hostal, so I had my cafe con leche and croissant. I then set out, but unfortunately, those yellow arrows and signs that have been so helpful in finding the way were scarce and hard to see, despite my having done some scouting the day before so I could find my way in the morning.

Thankfully, random passerbies were very helpful in pointing the way, helping not just me, but other confused pilgrims as well. Some of the route led me across rather unsavory areas, but all was quiet and eventually I found my way to the Malatos bridge. It was then a long, long walk along a highway. The other pilgrims went ahead and I lost them in the distance.

Eventually I found myself exiting Burgos but I was hoping to do so at the spot where Martin Sheen gets his pack back from the boy that stole in the movie The Way, but it obviously wasn’t. It was dark, anyway so it didn’t really matter.

I’m now out of the city, walking through a clearly visible path, being passed by random pilgrims, and the signs were now easier to see. It was cloudy and I could feel a random droplet here and there but nothing heavy. It was going to be a long walk to the next town, Tardajos, about halfway from my destination of Hornillos. I spotted an open cafe where I had a tortilla de patatas and orange juice, and bumped into the French gentleman I met the day I was going through San Juan De Ortega.

I needed to withdraw more cash, as it has a way of evaporating quickly with random expenses, plus some establishments won’t accept credit cards at all, or if the amount is under whatever minimum they set. Luckily, this was the only town that had an ATM, there was nothing until several towns away, beyond my planned walk for the day.

Around this time, mid morning, it starts raining lightly. By the time I got to Rabé de las Calzadas it was falling more heavily, which meant I needed to put on my poncho, which fits over my pack but I had a hard time reaching behind the pack. Out of nowhere, another pilgrim pulled the poncho into a better position.

The rain didn’t last long, but it was off and on, just enough to be annoying but thankfully nothing severe.

When leaving Rabé de las Calzadas, there is a little Ermita that I recognized from watching You Tube videos. Somewhere I’ve read that this spot is considered the start of the Meseta, that dreaded portion of the Camino that some people skip because it’s too empty, has no shade, but for as for me I say ”bring it on.” I’ve read that in this Ermita there is a nun that bestows a pilgrim blessing for their Meseta journey, and yes, she was there, and yes, I got the blessing, along with another pilgrim that came just a few moments after me. They both agreed to a selfie and for me to post the pic in FB. I was asked for a donation which I cheerfully did, then went on my way with my new pilgrim friend. He is Brazilian so I tried the little Portuguese I know (not very much), and chatted for a while as we started to go up a steep hill. I started to struggle because of my heavy backpack, eventually I told my friend to go ahead, as I needed to rest.

The rain did eventually taper off. I noticed the overpowering silence of the Meseta. I was tired. To be honest, I’ve been tired since I woke up, feeling depleted, wishing I could stay in Burgos a few more days, but right now I had no choice but to keep moving forward.

Finally, I came to the top of the hill, with a red cross with the inscription “Matamulos”, not sure what’s the story with that. But the view of Hornillos Del Camino down below was breathtaking. As I stopped to take pics, a lovely young lady also came to the same spot to admire the scenery. She told me she took some pics of me from behind, so she airdropped them to me. She went on her way, as we still had a lot of walking to do.

Finally I got to Hornillos Del Camino, a tiny town, very quiet, not much is going on, it seems it’s only one street. I notice lots of these little Spanish towns are quiet, with little or no activity, in contrast to the big cities like Burgos and Pamplona. Here, it’s like life is at standstill, but I don’t actually know since I’m not from here.

I found my Albergue (not hard since they are all on the same street). Went to the local store just to get something to take with me tomorrow, then went to the bar to have lunch, a generous portion of Pasta bolognaise and a 0,0 non alcoholic beer, which really quenches my thirst.

A shower, a nap, a little walk, and I’m getting ready for our communal dinner. Albergues are very different, in this one we have laundry facilities, kitchen with microwave, a nice lounging backyard, and tables where we’ll sit together for our meal, as well as for breakfast.

Pilgrim life is simple, you walk, bathe, eat, rest, talk, repeat daily, which is a nice routine to have. So far, the physical challenge has been the hardest for me, but the Camino has been said to consist on the first part being about the physical aspect, the second part (the Meseta) being about the mental, and finally the last part being about the spiritual.

For now, I’ll keep walking, one step at a time, one day at a time.

Log into Facebook

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[Kirkie]

Copied and pasted from my FB post:

Burgos to Hornillos Del Camino, 13.3 miles 31.4 Km

We were expecting rain, and more worrisome, thunderstorms, even as early as 5-6 AM. I tried to leave early because the worst of the weather would be in the afternoon. Sure enough, the streets of Burgos were wet, but it wasn’t raining when I was stepping out. I wasn’t expecting to find anything open at that hour, so I had a snack for that possibility. Luckily, I found an open bar just up the street from my hostal, so I had my cafe con leche and croissant. I then set out, but unfortunately, those yellow arrows and signs that have been so helpful in finding the way were scarce and hard to see, despite my having done some scouting the day before so I could find my way in the morning.

Thankfully, random passerbies were very helpful in pointing the way, helping not just me, but other confused pilgrims as well. Some of the route led me across rather unsavory areas, but all was quiet and eventually I found my way to the Malatos bridge. It was then a long, long walk along a highway. The other pilgrims went ahead and I lost them in the distance.

Eventually I found myself exiting Burgos but I was hoping to do so at the spot where Martin Sheen gets his pack back from the boy that stole in the movie The Way, but it obviously wasn’t. It was dark, anyway so it didn’t really matter.

I’m now out of the city, walking through a clearly visible path, being passed by random pilgrims, and the signs were now easier to see. It was cloudy and I could feel a random droplet here and there but nothing heavy. It was going to be a long walk to the next town, Tardajos, about halfway from my destination of Hornillos. I spotted an open cafe where I had a tortilla de patatas and orange juice, and bumped into the French gentleman I met the day I was going through San Juan De Ortega.

I needed to withdraw more cash, as it has a way of evaporating quickly with random expenses, plus some establishments won’t accept credit cards at all, or if the amount is under whatever minimum they set. Luckily, this was the only town that had an ATM, there was nothing until several towns away, beyond my planned walk for the day.

Around this time, mid morning, it starts raining lightly. By the time I got to Rabé de las Calzadas it was falling more heavily, which meant I needed to put on my poncho, which fits over my pack but I had a hard time reaching behind the pack. Out of nowhere, another pilgrim pulled the poncho into a better position.

The rain didn’t last long, but it was off and on, just enough to be annoying but thankfully nothing severe.

When leaving Rabé de las Calzadas, there is a little Ermita that I recognized from watching You Tube videos. Somewhere I’ve read that this spot is considered the start of the Meseta, that dreaded portion of the Camino that some people skip because it’s too empty, has no shade, but for as for me I say ”bring it on.” I’ve read that in this Ermita there is a nun that bestows a pilgrim blessing for their Meseta journey, and yes, she was there, and yes, I got the blessing, along with another pilgrim that came just a few moments after me. They both agreed to a selfie and for me to post the pic in FB. I was asked for a donation which I cheerfully did, then went on my way with my new pilgrim friend. He is Brazilian so I tried the little Portuguese I know (not very much), and chatted for a while as we started to go up a steep hill. I started to struggle because of my heavy backpack, eventually I told my friend to go ahead, as I needed to rest.

The rain did eventually taper off. I noticed the overpowering silence of the Meseta. I was tired. To be honest, I’ve been tired since I woke up, feeling depleted, wishing I could stay in Burgos a few more days, but right now I had no choice but to keep moving forward.

Finally, I came to the top of the hill, with a red cross with the inscription “Matamulos”, not sure what’s the story with that. But the view of Hornillos Del Camino down below was breathtaking. As I stopped to take pics, a lovely young lady also came to the same spot to admire the scenery. She told me she took some pics of me from behind, so she airdropped them to me. She went on her way, as we still had a lot of walking to do.

Finally I got to Hornillos Del Camino, a tiny town, very quiet, not much is going on, it seems it’s only one street. I notice lots of these little Spanish towns are quiet, with little or no activity, in contrast to the big cities like Burgos and Pamplona. Here, it’s like life is at standstill, but I don’t actually know since I’m not from here.

I found my Albergue (not hard since they are all on the same street). Went to the local store just to get something to take with me tomorrow, then went to the bar to have lunch, a generous portion of Pasta bolognaise and a 0,0 non alcoholic beer, which really quenches my thirst.

A shower, a nap, a little walk, and I’m getting ready for our communal dinner. Albergues are very different, in this one we have laundry facilities, kitchen with microwave, a nice lounging backyard, and tables where we’ll sit together for our meal, as well as for breakfast.

Pilgrim life is simple, you walk, bathe, eat, rest, talk, repeat daily, which is a nice routine to have. So far, the physical challenge has been the hardest for me, but the Camino has been said to consist on the first part being about the physical aspect, the second part (the Meseta) being about the mental, and finally the last part being about the spiritual.

For now, I’ll keep walking, one step at a time, one day at a time.

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The Meseta. Try to take it as it comes, not what any previous information has told you. I don't presume really to tell you you are doing well, only you know the truth of that, but it seems that you are rolling with the punches. Stay safe, and you might change 31 to 21 up at the top of your post !

 

[HBS60]

The Meseta. Try to take it as it comes, not what any previous information has told you. I don't presume really to tell you you are doing well, only you know the truth of that, but it seems that you are rolling with the punches. Stay safe, and you might change 31 to 21 up at the top of your post !

Typo corrected, thanks! im typing all this on my iPhone and it’s a pain catching and correcting all the typos

 

[CWBuff]

Again good progress!
Re: movie The Way - keep in mind that it's a Hollywood version of things and don't "exactly " look for the same in real life (else , as you should know by now to be not true, you'll wind up in Orisson sometime after Logroño)...
And yes The Pilgrim's Life is simple

 

[VNwalking]

Burgos!

BURGOS!!!

I’M IN BURGOS!!!!!!!

View attachment 176791

See?!?
Ta-daa. On a roll now.

some people skip because it’s too empty, has no shade, but for as for me I say ”bring it on.”

Don't believe "some people" - the Meseta is sublime, spacious, and a wonderful place to contemplate the vastness of creation.
May you enjoy the silence!

 

[ScouseKeith]

See?!?
Ta-daa. On a roll now.


Don't believe "some people" - the Meseta is sublime, spacious, and a wonderful place to contemplate the vastness of creation.
May you enjoy the silence!

You will enjoy the flatness views and openness a real time of reflection. Keith

 

[HBS60]

See?!?
Ta-daa. On a roll now.


Don't believe "some people" - the Meseta is sublime, spacious, and a wonderful place to contemplate the vastness of creation.
May you enjoy the silence!

You will enjoy the flatness views and openness a real time of reflection. Keith

Just arrived at Castrojeriz from Hornillos del Camino. The Meseta is stunningly glorious!

 

[CWBuff]

Just arrived at Castrojeriz from Hornillos del Camino. The Meseta is stunningly glorious!

And you have not seen anything of it yet
Buen camino
Waiting for the report du jour

 

[Bala]

Just arrived at Castrojeriz from Hornillos del Camino. The Meseta is stunningly glorious!

My absolute favorite section of the Camino.

I'm thoroughly enjoying following your progress and l9ve your enthusiasm and good spirits - even during the tough parts. Keep on keeping on, and buen camino.

 

[HBS60]

Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz, 12.1 miles, 19.47 Km

A glorious day of walking from Hornillos Del Camino to Castrojeriz through the breathtaking Meseta. My albergue did offer an optional simple self-serve breakfast (for an extra fee), and after putting some fuel in the tank, so to speak, and getting some caffeine, cereal, juice, and a muffin, I set out in the dark. I knew I had a couple big climbs so I wanted to get them done early, before the day heated up. I was rewarded with a beautiful daybreak watching the morning light reveal to me the Meseta in all its splendor, with rolling hills as far as the eye could see, reminding me of landscapes I’ve only seen in movies, but I was actually walking through this natural wonder. The silence was immense, raising my awareness of all the noise and chatter of ordinary life, now gone, awakening my senses with increased receptiveness of so much I normally miss.

Soon enough, the caravan of Pilgrims started to catch up with me, sometimes conversing with me before moving on, some simply went ahead with either a perfunctory “Buen Camino” nothing at all. At this point in my journey, I’m getting better at letting go of the desire to connect, knowing that sooner or later, these opportunities will arise, as I’m still a long way to Santiago. Besides, I was very absorbed in watching the scenery and watching the ocasional rocky path.

The only town between Hornillos and Castrojeriz was Hontanas, where a bunch of Pilgrims were already gathered for breakfast, or in my case, a second breakfast. I sat with a couple other pilgrims I had chatted with earlier, and enjoyed relaxing while getting my trifecta of tortilla de patatas, orange juice, and café con leche, or as I put it, protein, carbs, and caffeine.

Thus refueled, I continued my journey. While the rest of the route was mostly downhill, right after Hontanas was a rather difficult rocky segment, but mercifully it didn’t last very long.

The Meseta, at least what I’ve seen of it, is not a barren desert wasteland. Some areas are used for crops and the irrigation results in green areas, some trees provide much needed shade, but as the sun was getting higher, the day was warming up so I deployed my umbrella.

Eventually I came upon the ruins of the San Anton convent, which dates from the 15th century. I’m impressed that such structures could be built back then with the available technology of the time. There were picnic tables where pilgrims could gather for a break, some coffee, a soda vending machine, and the opportunity to stamp my own pilgrim credential.

It was time to move on, but Castrojeriz became visible very quickly. It’s a much bigger town than Hornillos, so I had a little trouble finding my Albergue (it’s the Orión Albergue, a very nice facility), and, as per my pilgrim routine, I showered, did my laundry, took a nap, had lunch, then snacked, and now I’m chilling until tonight’s Community dinner. The only task I still need to do is decide where I will stop tomorrow’s walk do I can find an albergue that can accommodate my need for a lower bunk close to an outlet for my cPAP machine, but so far it hasn’t been difficult. Tomorrow’s suggested walk is a bit longer, to Frómista 24.7 Km, but I think I can make it since I e done well so far, although I might get there later, so I might need to do a shorter walk the following day.

When looking at my position in Google maps, I can’t believe I’m almost halfway my route. I never thought I could come this far, but I’m mindful of the challenges ahead. Little by little, I’m making progress…

Fb link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/TVWx1RtT4ww2hXuR/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[JabbaPapa]

Eventually I found myself exiting Burgos but I was hoping to do so at the spot where Martin Sheen gets his pack back from the boy that stole in the movie The Way, but it obviously wasn’t. It was dark, anyway so it didn’t really matter.

The official Camino hasn't gone that way since about the 2000s. The old Albergue was in the centre of that park.

Somewhere I’ve read that this spot is considered the start of the Meseta

The northern Spanish meseta is huge, and despite some hills and some more rolling sections, on the Francès it really stretches between about Azofra and Astorga. The southern meseta is even larger.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Eventually I found myself exiting Burgos but I was hoping to do so at the spot where Martin Sheen gets his pack back from the boy that stole in the movie The Way,

The official Camino hasn't gone that way since about the 2000s. The old Albergue was in the centre of that park.

The maps in both my 2015 copy of Brierley and the Mapy.cz app show the Way going through the Parque el Parral and leaving it at the West gate, the location used for the handoff in the movie.

Puerta Oeste de El Parral · Burgos, Burgos

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[Kirkie]

Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz, 12.1 miles, 19.47 Km

A glorious day of walking from Hornillos Del Camino to Castrojeriz through the breathtaking Meseta. My albergue did offer an optional simple self-serve breakfast (for an extra fee), and after putting some fuel in the tank, so to speak, and getting some caffeine, cereal, juice, and a muffin, I set out in the dark. I knew I had a couple big climbs so I wanted to get them done early, before the day heated up. I was rewarded with a beautiful daybreak watching the morning light reveal to me the Meseta in all its splendor, with rolling hills as far as the eye could see, reminding me of landscapes I’ve only seen in movies, but I was actually walking through this natural wonder. The silence was immense, raising my awareness of all the noise and chatter of ordinary life, now gone, awakening my senses with increased receptiveness of so much I normally miss.

Soon enough, the caravan of Pilgrims started to catch up with me, sometimes conversing with me before moving on, some simply went ahead with either a perfunctory “Buen Camino” nothing at all. At this point in my journey, I’m getting better at letting go of the desire to connect, knowing that sooner or later, these opportunities will arise, as I’m still a long way to Santiago. Besides, I was very absorbed in watching the scenery and watching the ocasional rocky path.

The only town between Hornillos and Castrojeriz was Hontanas, where a bunch of Pilgrims were already gathered for breakfast, or in my case, a second breakfast. I sat with a couple other pilgrims I had chatted with earlier, and enjoyed relaxing while getting my trifecta of tortilla de patatas, orange juice, and café con leche, or as I put it, protein, carbs, and caffeine.

Thus refueled, I continued my journey. While the rest of the route was mostly downhill, right after Hontanas was a rather difficult rocky segment, but mercifully it didn’t last very long.

The Meseta, at least what I’ve seen of it, is not a barren desert wasteland. Some areas are used for crops and the irrigation results in green areas, some trees provide much needed shade, but as the sun was getting higher, the day was warming up so I deployed my umbrella.

Eventually I came upon the ruins of the San Anton convent, which dates from the 15th century. I’m impressed that such structures could be built back then with the available technology of the time. There were picnic tables where pilgrims could gather for a break, some coffee, a soda vending machine, and the opportunity to stamp my own pilgrim credential.

It was time to move on, but Castrojeriz became visible very quickly. It’s a much bigger town than Hornillos, so I had a little trouble finding my Albergue (it’s the Orión Albergue, a very nice facility), and, as per my pilgrim routine, I showered, did my laundry, took a nap, had lunch, then snacked, and now I’m chilling until tonight’s Community dinner. The only task I still need to do is decide where I will stop tomorrow’s walk do I can find an albergue that can accommodate my need for a lower bunk close to an outlet for my cPAP machine, but so far it hasn’t been difficult. Tomorrow’s suggested walk is a bit longer, to Frómista 24.7 Km, but I think I can make it since I e done well so far, although I might get there later, so I might need to do a shorter walk the following day.

When looking at my position in Google maps, I can’t believe I’m almost halfway my route. I never thought I could come this far, but I’m mindful of the challenges ahead. Little by little, I’m making progress…

Fb link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/TVWx1RtT4ww2hXuR/?mibextid=WC7FNe

If possible for your schedule, stop in Boadilla... you will not regret it.

 

[trecile]

The Meseta, at least what I’ve seen of it, is not a barren desert wasteland.

I really don't understand why people have this perception of the Meseta. Yes, it's fairly flat, and there aren't many trees, but that's because it's primarily agricultural land - nothing like a desert! In the Spring it's full of almost hypnotic green fields of grain waving in the breeze.

 

[JabbaPapa]

The maps in both my 2015 copy of Brierley and the Mapy.cz app show the Way going through the Parque el Parral and leaving it at the West gate, the location used for the handoff in the movie.

Puerta Oeste de El Parral · Burgos, Burgos

maps.app.goo.gl

The yellow arrows lead you elsewhere though. I myself have always made a point of going that way, since long before the release of that film.

 

[Camo]

leaving it at the West gate,

So is it the gate in foreground or the one in front of the "coffee stop" further up? gate

 

[Camo]

San Anton convent, which dates from the 15th century. I’m impressed that such structures could be built back then with the available technology of the time.

This was an example someone mentioned of the Camino passing "through" a church (as it did at the very start) and I made a Windows Background that I can use on a rotational basis on my laptop - heretis if anyone else wants it


It come with/without pilgrim

 

[camino07]

The yellow arrows lead you elsewhere though. I myself have always made a point of going that way, since long before the release of that film.

I have always gone through the park past the old Albergue. last time in 2015 Hopefully in October I will be able to.

 

[Camo]

Hopefully in October I will be able to

Temporarily closed
El parral is temporarily closed. If that's wrong, please suggest an edit.

That's what google says

 

[Kathor1]

El parral is temporarily closed. If that's wrong, please suggest an edit.

This will explain to @HBS60 why he did not exit Burgos at the spot where Martin Sheen gets his pack back from the boy that stole in the movie The Way. And although @HBS60 writes that it was dark, anyway so it didn’t really matter, he may still find this information useful and others may take note why current Camino pilgrims do not walk out of Burgos where they did so in the past. Access to the park El Parral has not been possible for the citizens of Burgos since 21 May of this year and the works in the park are scheduled to last for 12 months:

Así han comenzado las obras en el parque de El Parral en Burgos

La previsión de Patrimonio Nacional es plantar más de 400 nuevos ejemplares en el transcurso de los trabajos que tienen un plazo de ejecución de 12 meses

www.elcorreodeburgos.com

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

The yellow arrows lead you elsewhere though. I myself have always made a point of going that way, since long before the release of that film.

We didn't follow arrows to get to Parque el Parral. We spent a couple of nights at a hotel in Villafria and bussed into Burgos for our errands and touring. Continuing our Camino we backtracked around the airport and then took the river walk towards the cathedral area. From there we used Brierley's map to get to the park. I can't remember if there were arrows in the park area.

So is it the gate in foreground or the one in front of the "coffee stop" further up? gate

It was the gate linked to, the one with the girl and dog at the fountain.

The "coffee stop" is the Hotel Puerta Romeros. That's where we spent the night. Some walk huh? From one side of Burgos to the other.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I can't remember if there were arrows in the park area.

I can't remember any in the park itself, and I think there were none, though once you reached the entrance that they led to, it was straight on from there to the Albergue which was unmissable from the congregation of pilgrims surrounding it.

In 2022, the yellow arrows reappeared straight after the exit where that scene was shot.

 

[Peggy1042]

Exactly two weeks ago, I started my Camino, so now I begin my third Camino week…
———————————————————-
Belorado to Villafranca Montes De Oca
7.7 miles 12.39 Km

Short day today, walked only to VfMdO because I understood there’s a steep hill after that and a long stretch with nothing, so I figured I would tackle something like that in the morning, not late in the afternoon when I’m hot and tired, and made a reservation. Turns out it’s been a cold, chilly day and I’ve been freezing off my butt all the way. It was 56 F degrees (about 13.3 C degrees).

It was drizzling when I got up and the last thing I wanted was to set out in the cold. Luckily, the Albergue I was staying in had a full restaurant so I indulged in a ham and cheese sandwich and the sacred ritual of Cafe Con Leche.
The rain let up but it was chilly, but I didn’t think I had much of a choice.

Since I was planning a short walk, I packed (crammed) my cPAP machine, and off I went. Thankfully I do have a long- sleeved nylon Tshirt that gives me some insulation when layered with my Merino wool tshirt, but my long convertible hiking pants were deep in my backpack. Hiking with a fully loaded backpack does help stay warm, but I dared not stop as I knew the cold will creep in.

I met an interesting young fellow who was limping badly, so I inquired if he was OK. He said he had a swollen foot on the lateral side, and kept insisting that it was a matter of mind over matter (and pain pills). I tried to point out that he could injure himself more and should have it checked, but he wouldn’t hear about it. Not much I could do, I hope he makes it to Burgos OK.

I ran into my Valencian friend, who was headed back to a prior town because he had forgotten his credential. I was glad to be able to say goodbye in person.

Even though it was foggy, misty, drizzly, it was nice to watch the scenery, perfect for a movie set. I just wish the wind wasn’t as strong, but I’m sure that prior pilgrims, recent and past, had endured worse conditions, so I told myself to quit complaining.

Eventually I got to my Albergue, which is a section of a very nice hotel, although us pilgrims are in separate quarters. To my dismay, she wouldn’t take my credit card payment because they require a minimum of 30 Euros. I did have the 15 euros in cash she wanted, but I was short on cash, and what’s worse, she told me there was no ATM machine in this town or in any other town between Belorado and Burgos. I only had a 5 Euro note left with some coins. A fellow pilgrim had the great idea to ask if I could pay for the bed AND dinner, that would be over 30 euros and she would give me my cash back. She did agree, thankfully, so I felt better.. . .

I called the Albergue I’m planning to stay at tomorrow in Atapuerca, and my heart sank when he told me they don’t take credit cards, but I could pay through Booking.com, fortunately it worked. I tried to get lunch at the bar but they require a 15 euro minimum and whatever lunch I ordered wouldn’t be over that limit. So, I walked to a little Mercado and bought a microwave meal and snacks (I actually wasn’t all that hungry),they took my credit card with no minimum, so I ate and I’m ready for a nap.

Tomorrow, I plan to walk to Atapuerca, which is 11.3 miles-18.2 Km, then the next day walk into Burgos, 12.4 miles-20 Km from Atapuerca.

I’m astounded that exactly two weeks ago, on Sunday August 11, I started my walk from St Jean Pied-De Port. That seems like a lifetime away, and as difficult as it has been at times, somehow I’ve made it this far. Just this morning I reached a marker telling me I have 550 Km left to Santiago, certainly less than two weeks ago.

So I’ll rest for the remainder of the day, and try to let it all sink in.

FB link for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/DGFpsY22p4DASeVF/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Loved your photos and story. They bring back so many memories. I would love to walk there again

 

[HBS60]

Copied and pasted from my FB post:

Castrojeriz to Frómista, 16.8 miles 27 Km

What a day!

I knew I had a mountain to climb in the morning (Alto de Mostelares). Not wanting to start in the absolute darkness, I waited a little since the Albergue did offer breakfast at 6:30 AM. It was just cereal, toast with butter, juice and coffee, but that’s much better than an empty stomach.

After a little confusion finding the Camino, I was well on my way, enjoying the gorgeously colored clouds of daybreak. I did know these were premonitions of bad weather later in the day, but they were beautiful nonetheless.

Soon enough, it was time for the climb. It was steep, it was hard, but I got it done, and I was rewarded with incredible views both behind me and further ahead. While resting at the summit, other pilgrims I’ve met over the last few days arrived at the top. I was glad to see them but I knew they would move on, besides I was taking my time taking pictures. The vastness of the Meseta Castellana is hard to fathom even when looking at it, and no picture can do it justice. It was literally the high point of my day.

Eventually I worked my way down, and the endless walk began. Most of the morning went by, thankfully the air was cool and the walk was enjoyable. Unfortunately, the little breakfast was wearing off, and the next town was several kilometers away. I do have snacks either me, but they were hard to reach in the backpack so I kept walking. Finally I reached the border between the provinces of Burgos and Palencia. Shortly afterwards I reached the town of Itero de la Vega, were I had a more substantial breakfast, since I knew it would be 8.2 Km to the next town, Boadilla del Camino.

The day was warming up, I was started to feel overheated, my feet were hurting, and I was running out of steam. I finally relented and took out a Coke, which really helped give me the boost for the short distance left to Boadilla del Camino. To my disappointment, the only bar open didn’t have anything substantial to eat, so I ordered the cake they were selling, along with a 0,0 beer (great thirst quencher) plus an Aquarius for hydration and electrolytes.

I still had 5.4 Km left to reach Frómista, but I knew there was rain in the forecast with possibility of storms. 5.4 Km didn’t seem so much, but halfway through, a storm caught me. I did manage to put my poncho on as the rain started to pelt me. The wind picked up with ferocity, and thunder was booming all around me. Thankfully I didn’t see any lightning, so I think the thunder was from cloud to cloud lightning.

While I was worried, I managed to keep my cool and not panic. Fortunately I managed to find a concrete structure that, while closed, at least I managed to get a little protection from the wind. Unfortunately the poncho was flailing uselessly and I got soaked anyway. (I think I’ll try a rain jacket).

Finally the storm decreased in intensity, so I resumed my walk, fueled by adrenaline and the carbs I had at Boadilla. I just walked in the rain, until I dragged my sorry wet ass into the Albergue around 4 PM. I showered and changed into dry clothes, and I thought I would find something to eat, but as per local customs, everything was closed, so I had to wait until 7:30 PM. Many pilgrims I’ve met were lining up at a restaurant and invited me to join them. I had a great meal of Iberian ribs with potato water, wine, and flan for dessert, while enjoying the company of friendly strangers.

I’m beat but I hope tomorrow will be better, it will be less distance than today and the weather seems good. I was scared during the storm but I was able to keep my cool, and that’s a great sign that I’m learning and growing.

Tomorrow I’ll go to Carrion de los Condes, just 28 Kms away. Who knows what challenges I’ll face tomorrow?

FB link for pics and videos: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/TT1chH94wBsBm7iD/?mibextid=WC7FNe

 

[Anhalter]

Iberian ribs with potato water

I absolutely know it is just a missing comma and typing on a mobile is aweful.... but I can't stop laughing about it.

So good to read how you adopted to the camino. I whish you the most pleasant journey from now onwards.

 

[Camo]

scheduled to last for 12 months

So google was right and I only noticed this because I had created a virtual tour of this leg of the Frances. So as I say elsewhere there are many different ways (and people types) who can do their OWN thing for a Camino - IMHO of course

 

[Camo]

Iberian ribs with potato water, wine, and flan for dessert,

Do mine yeux betray me or have you relented and started drinking WINE?

A week ago as you passed through the famous Rioja area WITHOUT taking a drop of the Tempranillo so I visited my local and bought a bottle of Campo Viego to remind myself of this part of my 1976 "wine safari" that passed through Rioja on the way to Bordeaux. Nice going Hector

 

[trecile]

Here's Héctor's week four thread.

Héctor Walks His Way-week 4