Questions regarding Ponferrada to O Cebreiro

[Zoe7]

Sorry to ask so many questions but your input has been very helpful. Trying to get some of the basics in place so I can focus on fully being present once I’m there.
Intending to do around 10 miles/day. Arriving in Ponferrada and have been planning to take the bus from Ponferrada to start in Villafranca del Bierzo ,(perhaps following one person’s example who took a taxi 10 km or so up the road to cut out some of the highway walking.).Or even possibly starting closer to Herrerais. But looking at photos of the walk starting in Ponferrada it looks like a different terrain with its vineyards and lovely to walk along (wondering if thereare any vineyards further along before arriving to Santiago?). The walk from VdB to Herrerais, despite being on the highway, also looks really interesting with all the little villages. Would love to be able to be spontaneous where I stay but needing to reserve ahead as slow walker. Not sure where to plan inbetween stays on the way from VdB to O Cebreiro that allows time to appreciate fully the experience but also makes sense in terms of the larger picture, and allows for doing the climb up O Cebreiro in the morning — though I’d also like to be there for the evening pilgrims mass if can find lodging but challenging to figure that out, ie what would one do with the time between an early afternoon arrival and the evening. Any guidance welcome.

Another question:
Will be there last week Sept and first week of October. I have a sheet sack — do I also need to bring a sleeping bag or blanket?

Thank you

 

[Grousedoctor]

Not sure where to plan inbetween stays on the way from VdB to O Cebreiro that allows time to appreciate fully the experience but also makes sense in terms of the larger picture

When I arrived in Villafranco del Bierzo, it was really too early for me to stop for the day. So after a nice lunch in the town square, I hiked on to Trabadeo (only 10 km). And even though parts of that section were along the highway, it wasn’t a bad walk at all. Trabadelo was a nice village to spend the night in. Found a good albergue (Albergue Camino y Leyenda) and had a nice dinner. Best of all it put me within 17 kms to O Cebreiro. When I got there just at mid-day, I had plenty of time to explore this picturesque village.

Regarding a sleeping bag, I always carry a one-season bag. So hard to tell what the weather will be like in October or at higher altitudes. Having a sleeping bag covers me for any inclement weather that I might encounter.

 

[Juspassinthru]

The walk from Ponferrada to VdB is a good, full day with a mix of scenery, in May we did it in the rain but I digress. If you stop in between, the next day you may want to go to Trabadelo via Pradela Alto, there’s a nice bar/albergue there if you choose to stop. We did VdB to Las Herrerias via Pradela Alto, it was a long day but beautiful and worth it. Stopping in Las Herrerias shortens the day to O’Cebreiro, consider Liñares as an option with a taxi to/from for the mass and dinner, very limited food options in Liñares.

Finally, that time of year, I’d take a lightweight sleeping bag.

 

[Marbe2]

From Ponferrada to Componaraya, it is circa a 10km walk along a cement or tar road. basically along shopping areas. Then you come across a winery on on the left, and the trail goes for a couple of Kms through a dirt road and lovely scenery. You then cross the main road, back onto to a side road taking you into Cacabelos. Exiting the town, you follow right along the road for several Kms, before veering off in into vineyards, for what some see as beautiful, but I experience as a boring goose chase. There are a couple of buses that go to Villafranca during the day and stop in Camponaraya and Villafranca d. Bierzo.

From Villafranca, 10 miles would get you close to Las Herrias. I think it is about 12 miles.
The first km gets you to NVI. Then you walk along the curvy road with a cement guard rail between you and the road, with some high rock on the other side, obfuscating any panoramic views. We usually do the 20km to Las Herrerias. And then,we take one of our rest days before starting the climb to OCebreiro. It is a small town, with little to do, but a nice bucolic town which empties out in the morning and is rather quiet still the afternoon. Lots of pilgrims trickle in for lunch in high season. From VdB there is only 1 bus which has a midafternoon departure and stops near Ambasmestas (Alsa.com). This bus also goes to Pedrafita do Cebreiro. If you intend to take this bus then I would make reservations for this bus online because it reportedly does sell out sometimes.

You can also get a horse ride up in the morning from this area..if you stay in Herrerias the night before. Contact Victor at 638 041823. I have not used the service.

 

[naplesdon]

Cacabelos is a good stop between Ponferrada and VdB, as mentioned nice walk through vineyards after you pass the winery. Between VdB and O'Cebreira, there are a number of places to stop and break the walk up into 2 or 3 days and the road walking is a lightly trafficked country lane.

 

[CWBuff]

may I suggest VdB to La Portella de Valcarce or Vega de Valcarce (appr. 16km) and then to O Cebreiro (another 13 km)
easy peasy breezy

 

[Marbe2]

I see you have several posts going, Zoe. It is more difficult when there are several posts to know what is being answered.

I do know now you are coming in Sept-early Oct. You have asked about starting in ? Ponferrada, Molineseca? Villafranca…etc. then on to Sarria etc. Have you decided where to start?

You explain that you will do 10 miles per day walking slowly.

Yes, at that time, in private accommodations, do get reservations(!l) as a slow walker. Otherwise you may find yourselfwanderingaroundortak8ng a taxi to a different location that night.

Will you be carrying a pack or sending luggage ahead?

NATIONAL DAY OF SPAIN! Is Oct 12th and in places like SdC it will be difficult to find a place to eat or stay without reservations! Town will be full!

 

[Marbe2]

Regarding sleeping bags - If you stay in a private room in an albergue or other private accommodation, they usually have blankets. Personally, I don’t use blankets that are on beds anywhere. I always take them off. Concerned about bed bugs. But that is me. You may not have that concern. So my answer is, if you have private accommodations and use their blankets, no you won’t need a sleeping bag.
If you are staying in dorm bunk bed type rooms then yes, you may need it on some nights.

 

[Silvermomma]

From Ponferrada to Componaraya, it is circa a 10km walk along a cement or tar road. basically along shopping areas. Then you come across a winery on on the left, and the trail goes for a couple of Kms through a dirt road and lovely scenery. You then cross the main road, back onto to a side road taking you into Cacabelos. Exiting the town, you follow right along the road for several Kms, before veering off in into vineyards, for what some see as beautiful, but I experience as a boring goose chase. There are a couple of buses that go to Villafranca during the day and stop in Camponaraya and Villafranca d. Bierzo.

From Villafranca, 10 miles would get you close to Las Herrias. I think it is about 12 miles.
The first km gets you to NVI. Then you walk along the curvy road with a cement guard rail between you and the road, with some high rock on the other side, obfuscating any panoramic views. We usually do the 20km to Las Herrerias. And then,we take one of our rest days before starting the climb to OCebreiro. It is a small town, with little to do, but a nice bucolic town which empties out in the morning and is rather quiet still the afternoon. Lots of pilgrims trickle in for lunch in high season. From VdB there is only 1 bus which has a midafternoon departure and stops near Ambasmestas (Alsa.com). This bus also goes to Pedrafita do Cebreiro. If you intend to take this bus then I would make reservations for this bus online because it reportedly does sell out sometimes.

You can also get a horse ride up in the morning from this area..if you stay in Herrerias the night before. Contact Victor at 638 041823. I have not used the service.

I rode a horse up to O Cebreiro in May 2023 - the alternative is to walk uphill in horse droppings! The horses are sweet and slow and Victor and his GF are lovely. They do the walk (alongside the horses) twice a day!

 

[williamlittig]

Sorry to ask so many questions but your input has been very helpful. Trying to get some of the basics in place so I can focus on fully being present once I’m there.
Intending to do around 10 miles/day. Arriving in Ponferrada and have been planning to take the bus from Ponferrada to start in Villafranca del Bierzo ,(perhaps following one person’s example who took a taxi 10 km or so up the road to cut out some of the highway walking.).Or even possibly starting closer to Herrerais. But looking at photos of the walk starting in Ponferrada it looks like a different terrain with its vineyards and lovely to walk along (wondering if thereare any vineyards further along before arriving to Santiago?). The walk from VdB to Herrerais, despite being on the highway, also looks really interesting with all the little villages. Would love to be able to be spontaneous where I stay but needing to reserve ahead as slow walker. Not sure where to plan inbetween stays on the way from VdB to O Cebreiro that allows time to appreciate fully the experience but also makes sense in terms of the larger picture, and allows for doing the climb up O Cebreiro in the morning — though I’d also like to be there for the evening pilgrims mass if can find lodging but challenging to figure that out, ie what would one do with the time between an early afternoon arrival and the evening. Any guidance welcome.

Another question:
Will be there last week Sept and first week of October. I have a sheet sack — do I also need to bring a sleeping bag or blanket?

Thank you

Like most cities getting to the outskirts is the hard part. Then the orchards begin, rolling hills, small towns occasional limited road walking. Beyond Villafranco the road does follow a highway (there is an alternate route). The highway has now been bypassed by a freeway and the old road is quieter now. Don't scare yourself

 

[Juspassinthru]

I see you have several posts going, Zoe. It is more difficult when there are several posts to know what is being answered.

I do know now you are coming in Sept-early Oct. You have asked about starting in ? Ponferrada, Molineseca? Villafranca…etc. then on to Sarria etc. Have you decided where to start?

You explain that you will do 10 miles per day walking slowly.

Yes, at that time, in private accommodations, do get reservations(!l) as a slow walker. Otherwise you may find yourselfwanderingaroundortak8ng a taxi to a different location that night.

Will you be carrying a pack or sending luggage ahead?

NATIONAL DAY OF SPAIN! Is Oct 12th and in places like SdC it will be difficult to find a place to eat or stay without reservations! Town will be full!

Be very aware of holidays. We hit Fromista this year on Palencia Independence Day(?), some albergues were closed, one bar open but no shops. Fromista is a bed bottleneck on a good day. Also caught May Day while in Astorga, most shops and many bars/cafes/restaurants closed.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I rode a horse up to O Cebreiro in May 2023 - the alternative is to walk uphill in horse droppings!

I just walked that stretch a couple months ago and I didn’t notice a large amount of horse droppings.

 

[Wanderingfriend]

I have walked the Camino before but this time I am packing ultra light. I have a silk liner and I cut my down blanket, I used for a sleeping bag last time, in half. I will stick it into my silk liner. If I am still cold into October, I will wear my puffy down coat to bed! Multi use items only.

 

[Zoe7]

I see you have several posts going, Zoe. It is more difficult when there are several posts to know what is being answered.

I do know now you are coming in Sept-early Oct. You have asked about starting in ? Ponferrada, Molineseca? Villafranca…etc. then on to Sarria etc. Have you decided where to start?

You explain that you will do 10 miles per day walking slowly.

Yes, at that time, in private accommodations, do get reservations(!l) as a slow walker. Otherwise you may find yourselfwanderingaroundortak8ng a taxi to a different location that night.

Will you be carrying a pack or sending luggage ahead?

NATIONAL DAY OF SPAIN! Is Oct 12th and in places like SdC it will be difficult to find a place to eat or stay without reservatio

Be very aware of holidays. We hit Fromista this year on Palencia Independence Day(?), some albergues were closed, one bar open but no shops. Fromista is a bed bottleneck on a good day. Also caught May Day while in Astorga, most shops and many bars/cafes/restaurants closed.

Thanks for

Be very aware of holidays. We hit Fromista this year on Palencia Independence Day(?), some albergues were closed, one bar open but no shops. Fromista is a bed bottleneck on a good day. Also caught May Day while in Astorga, most shops and many bars/cafes/restaurants closed.

Thanks for the warning about Oct 12.
And yes, will be sending my luggage ahead (am a petite 75 yr old). Currently planning to start walking from villafranca del brierzo, Trabadelo or Las Herriaras
Thanks!

 

[Juspassinthru]

Thanks for

Thanks for the warning about Oct 12.
And yes, will be sending my luggage ahead (am a petite 75 yr old). Currently planning to start walking from villafranca del brierzo, Trabadelo or Las Herriaras
Thanks!

By booking your bed/room ahead you can walk at whatever pace you want. Regards age, I walked for a while in April with a woman named Joy who celebrated her 82nd birthday on the Camino. Zoe7, relax and enjoy your Camino.

 

[trecile]

By booking your bed/room ahead you can walk at whatever pace you want.

However, you really need to know your capabilities and limitations.

 

[Juspassinthru]

However, you really need to know your capabilities and limitations.

Good advice in general.

 

[CWBuff]

Blisters, argh! Open up those small blisters and drain them. Make sure the opening is large enough, like a slit, so as not to close up and fill again. Clean them so they do not get infected. If you don’t have any, go to a pharmacy and buy some paper pharmaceutical tape. In the morning before walking, make sure there isn’t any liquid built up in those blisters. Then wrap them with tape. They may still hurt for a while, but they shouldn’t get any worse before starting to heal. On breaks when walking, take off your shoes and socks. Even change socks mid-hike. If you notice a new sensitive spot, tape it immediately. Preventative care is important to keep hot spots from changing into blisters. In the evenings, take off the tape and let the blisters continue to dry out. A couple days down the trail you should feel much better. Bom Caminho!

I rode a horse up to O Cebreiro in May 2023 - the alternative is to walk uphill in horse droppings! The horses are sweet and slow and Victor and his GF are lovely. They do the walk (alongside the horses) twice a day!

I just walked that stretch a couple months ago and I didn’t notice a large amount of horse droppings.

YeH.. sorry don't remember walking in bunch of horse droppings.
If anything no more than a bunch of cow droppings anywhere else.
Just keep your eyes open- that's all

 

[Zoe7]

By booking your bed/room ahead you can walk at whatever pace you want. Regards age, I walked for a while in April with a woman named Joy who celebrated her 82nd birthday on the Camino. Zoe7, relax and enjoy your Camino.

Thank you for your reminder

 

[David Tallan]

Thanks for

Thanks for the warning about Oct 12.
And yes, will be sending my luggage ahead (am a petite 75 yr old). Currently planning to start walking from villafranca del brierzo, Trabadelo or Las Herriaras
Thanks!

When I was walking with my daughter earlier this year we started in Villafranca and had a short 10km walk for our first day to Trabadelo, where we stayed in Casa Susi (an often recommended albergue) as a gentle introduction to my daughter to Camino walking and albergue life. From there, we walked another short 10km and rode the horses from Las Herrerial up to O Cebreiro. The plan was to walk more normal length stages from O Cebreiro.

Villafranca del Bierzo is in the heart of the Bierzo wine region. As you head out from Villafranca to Galicia, you will see the vineyards replaced by cattle pastures.

It is hard to say whether a liner will be enough or whether you will want a light bag. Different people sleep at different temperatures. Last time I walked in October (north from Porto) I made do with just a liner. But others have had different experiences.

 

[Zoe7]

When I was walking with my daughter earlier this year we started in Villafranca and had a short 10km walk for our first day to Trabadelo, where we stayed in Casa Susi (an often recommended albergue) as a gentle introduction to my daughter to Camino walking and albergue life. From there, we walked another short 10km and rode the horses from Las Herrerial up to O Cebreiro. The plan was to walk more normal length stages from O Cebreiro.

Villafranca del Bierzo is in the heart of the Bierzo wine region. As you head out from Villafranca to Galicia, you will see the vineyards replaced by cattle pastures.

It is hard to say whether a liner will be enough or whether you will want a light bag. Different people sleep at different temperatures. Last time I walked in October (north from Porto) I made do with just a liner. But others have had different experiences.

Thanks, David. And during the day up through the first week of Oct, a lightweight down jacket would probably be enough in the mornings?

 

[David Tallan]

Thanks, David. And during the day up through the first week of Oct, a lightweight down jacket would probably be enough in the mornings?

I would expect so. That's all I'll be taking for my Camino in November. I can layer it if necessary.