LIVE from the Camino Slow and Steady

[grdemedeiros]

Day 1 Vila Nova de Gaia to Matosinhos: 12 K
9:20 - 12:40*
Highest temp** while walking: 72°
Pilgrims spotted: 8

Seattle-Newark-Porto, not an easy route, but that's the price we pay for living on the west coast of the US! We didn't sleep the entire trip, arriving early in the morning of June 26. Since we couldn't check in until 15:00, this meant a rough first day in Porto. We visited the Sé, bought hiking poles at Decathlon, and finally, got some rest.

Based on recommendations from folks on this forum, we walked to Matosinhos today (June 27), then took the Metro back to Porto. We'll get transport back to Matosinhos tomorrow, but that should be it for backtracking. After 3-4 days on the Coastal, we'll switch over to the Central, and then hang a left at Ponte Vedra for the Variante Espiritual.

We were glad we missed the rain storm eary this morning, crossing our fingers for another mild day tomorrow.

Say hi if you see me and @RodrigoD

Onward!

*We have the privilege of time, so are taking it slow and steady.

**Unfortunately we couldn't travel in cooler months (I work at a school and am confined to the district's vacation calendar). Since temps are something I worry about, I hope this info might help others in a similar situation.

 

[blathercamino]

Day 1 Vila Nova de Gaia to Matosinhos: 12 K
9:20 - 12:40*
Highest temp** while walking: 72°
Pilgrims spotted: 8

Seattle-Newark-Porto, not an easy route, but that's the price we pay for living on the west coast of the US! We didn't sleep the entire trip, arriving early in the morning of June 26. Since we couldn't check in until 15:00, this meant a rough first day in Porto. We visited the Sé, bought hiking poles at Decathlon, and finally, got some rest.

Based on recommendations from folks on this forum, we walked to Matosinhos today (June 27), then took the Metro back to Porto. We'll get transport back to Matosinhos tomorrow, but that should be it for backtracking. After 3-4 days on the Coastal, we'll switch over to the Central, and then hang a left at Ponte Vedra for the Variante Espiritual.

We were glad we missed the rain storm eary this morning, crossing our fingers for another mild day tomorrow.

Say hi if you see me and @RodrigoD

Onward!

*We have the privilege of time, so are taking it slow and steady.

**Unfortunately we couldn't travel in cooler months (I work at a school and am confined to the district's vacation calendar). Since temps are something I worry about, I hope this info might help others in a similar situation.

Hi there. My wife and I leave from Seattle (they are also a teacher) on July 4th. We are spending a bit of time in Lisbon and Porto and then beginning to walk on July 9th, so we will be way behind you. But wanted to say hi to a fellow seattelite doing basically the same itinerary!

Brooke

 

[grdemedeiros]

Hi there. My wife and I leave from Seattle (they are also a teacher) on July 4th. We are spending a bit of time in Lisbon and Porto and then beginning to walk on July 9th, so we will be way behind you. But wanted to say hi to a fellow seattelite doing basically the same itinerary!

Brooke

Sorry we'll miss you, but enjoy! Maybe we'll see each other sometime on a Seattle Pilgrims walk?

 

[naplesdon]

Newark is the absolute worst airport in the USA to transit for an International flight. I can not imagine what it might be like on a rainy day!!!!!

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 2 Matosinhos - Angeiras 11.4 K
10:50 - 13:30
Highest temp: 70° F
Pilgrims: 35

A much later start than we intended today, but with cool, pleasant weather (even chilly at one point), it turned out just fine.

We saw a lot of fellow Pilgrims today, many couples, some solo, and two groups of three. (Plus one group of three bicyclists who flew by, I'm assuming they were on Camino based on their saddle-bags.) Cheers to Laura and Gabriel & Paula , fun to meet you and chat today!

Favorite sights: that flock of sheep grazing in a patch of green smack in the center Matosinhos (spotted from the metro).

Retirees gossiping on park benches calling to us to get a stamp from their favorite beachside shop.

Peixeiras (fishmongers) in their white rubber boots and embroidered aprons drinking coffee before they open their stalls for the day.

The mysterious blueish-greyish beach thistle? holly? growing in the dunes. (We later learned it's called "Cardo-marítimo".)

Delicious bites: is there anything better than ham & cheese sandwiches made from fresh Portuguese bread slathered with butter?

 

[CWBuff]

Newark is the absolute worst airport in the USA to transit for an International flight. I can not imagine what it might be like on a rainy day!!!!!

Within reasons I'll respectfully disagree, although I would have to add that I have never used it as a "transit" since it is almost always my departure point.
I know that like anything else in this life, folks have different experiences; heck - last time I was there the couple I met while relaxing in The Club had their LHR flight cancelled completely out of the blue (I was lucky to proceed to NCE with no issues) and for better or worse EWR does have a very bad reputation - had that for eons -
but I do not have any bad experiences with it. There was another thread recently and I have mentione don it that I do not like my own PHL at ALL and at the same I loathe to drive to JFK (although that will have the cheapest airfares of the area)

That said, I have sat in PDX, ORD, BOS, DEN and couple of other airports on a rainy day. I can assure you that chances are its not any different than either PHL, EWR or JFK

actually IMHO as of late they ALL are quite awful....

 

[Wooz]

Slow and steady just like the snails! I shall enjoy following along. We stayed off stage a lot as well because of our shorter distances but felt like we enjoyed every minute and never felt rushed. Great to get to your destination early to shower, wash clothes and still have time (and energy!) to explore the town.

 

[grdemedeiros]

@Wooz Exactly our thoughts! Today we're headed to Vila do Conde where we're looking forward to visiting the Igreja Matriz and the Convento de Santa Clara.

 

[blathercamino]

Sorry we'll miss you, but enjoy! Maybe we'll see each other sometime on a Seattle Pilgrims walk?

I wasn’t aware of such a thing. No hurry, but would love info.

 

[Wooz]

I wasn’t aware of such a thing. No hurry, but would love info.

Looks like you have a very active chapter in Seattle! Local chapters can be found on the Americans on the Camino website.

Puget Sound Chapter (Seattle) - American Pilgrims on the Camino

The Puget Sound (Seattle) Chapter of American Pilgrims serves the greater Seattle, Washington area. The first local chapter of American Pilgrims on the Camino was established in 2010. The Seattle-area chapter of American Pilgrims on the Camino hosts events and walks for people interested in...

americanpilgrims.org

 

[blathercamino]

Looks like you have a very active chapter in Seattle! Local chapters can be found on the Americans on the Camino website.

Puget Sound Chapter (Seattle) - American Pilgrims on the Camino

The Puget Sound (Seattle) Chapter of American Pilgrims serves the greater Seattle, Washington area. The first local chapter of American Pilgrims on the Camino was established in 2010. The Seattle-area chapter of American Pilgrims on the Camino hosts events and walks for people interested in...

americanpilgrims.org

Thank you!

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 3 Angeiras - Vila do Conde ~14.4 K*
9:00 - 14:00
Highest temp while walking: 70° F
Pilgrims spotted: 7 en route, many more in town once we arrived. (We stopped counting!)

Today was much longer than anticipated. We knew about the detours** we'd have to take because some parts of the boardwalks are under construction, but we ended up going too far on one detour and had to backtrack. That added time and kilometers. We also stopped a lot to enjoy the views, air out our feet, and chat with locals.

Favorite sights: fields of corn waving in the sea breeze with a beach front chapel and the Atlantic in the distance.

The festival commissioners setting up their oil-drum open-air grill for the Fishermen's Festival of Vila Chã in honor of São Pedro.

A home decorated with mosaics featuring Porto FC (with a 3D dragon!), fishing, and several folk from the Bible.

The bird and nature sanctuary that was part of the detour at Mingelo. One part of this path - called the Percuso das Dunas - included a beautiful stream and shady grove. It was a fresh change from the seaside boardwalk strolling.

Delicious bites: Grilled sardines at Adega Gavina on the riverfront of Vila do Conde.

Despite the longer walk today, we had energy to wander around VdC, saw the view from the Convent of Santa Clara (now a fancy hotel), the aqueduct, and got our stamps at the Igreja Matriz. Are glad to finally be settling down into our place for the night!

*This includes an estimated 3 extra kilometers due to detours and our getting off track.

** If anyone would like more details about the detours, holler! I took pictures and notes, just didn't have the energy to write more tonight.

 

[trecile]

Newark is the absolute worst airport in the USA to transit for an International flight. I can not imagine what it might be like on a rainy day!!!!!

In June 2022 I lived it! It wasn't pretty. After we boarded the flight they announced that we would have to deplane because we had no pilots - they were still at Dulles!

 

[Mycroft]

Within reasons I'll respectfully disagree, although I would have to add that I have never used it as a "transit" since it is almost always my departure point.
I know that like anything else in this life, folks have different experiences; heck - last time I was there the couple I met while relaxing in The Club had their LHR flight cancelled completely out of the blue (I was lucky to proceed to NCE with no issues) and for better or worse EWR does have a very bad reputation - had that for eons -
but I do not have any bad experiences with it. There was another thread recently and I have mentione don it that I do not like my own PHL at ALL and at the same I loathe to drive to JFK (although that will have the cheapest airfares of the area)

That said, I have sat in PDX, ORD, BOS, DEN and couple of other airports on a rainy day. I can assure you that chances are its not any different than either PHL, EWR or JFK

actually IMHO as of late they ALL are quite awful....

Too right, CWBuff! I'm old and remember when airports were fun, and friends could meet you at the gate when you came in from disembarking the plane--even from front and rear doors! And you weren't considered guilty till proven innocent.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 4 Vila do Conde - São Pedro de Rates 14 K
8:20 - 12:40
Highest temp while walking: 67° F
Pilgrims spotted: Zero walking in the same direction as us for the bulk of the way, 7 once we connected with the Central at Arcos.

We were really grateful for the advice given on this forum about cutting across to the Central Route from VdC. @trecile shared the tool mapy.cz, which was awesome. While the first couple of kilometers leading out of VdC were marked (arrows on the curb, on walls, lampposts, etc.), we'd hit stretches that were unmarked. Having the offline map gave us confidence that we weren't going to veer off into paths Google thought were good for walking, but might not really be!

There were a few scary stretches and drivers but walking along the road wasn't as bad as we thought it might be. Maybe because it's Sunday.

We had several great talks with locals, including two men named Jose Carlos. The first we met at his bakery where we stopped for water. He proudly showed us his photo of John Brierley eating at one of his tables. The second we had originally met at a coffee shop in VdC, but didn't catch his name, then we came across him just outside of Arcos, where he was returning from an 80+ km bike ride. He recommended a place to eat in Rates, even calling them to make a reservation. Finally, coming full circle, Jose Carlos #1 just happened to be eating lunch at the same place!

Fun sights: Lambs chasing their moms.

A garden with roses and grapes and hydrangeas.

A school of aquaculture (might have been a museum).

The stone bridge that lead us away from the major road onto the smaller ones leading us to Arcos.

A family of 25 out to Sunday lunch.

 

[CMLangley]

Also from Seattle, glad you are enjoying yourself. I did the Litoral the entire way 2 years ago and loved it

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 5 São Pedro de Rates - Barcelos ~20K
8:30 - 15:15
Highest temp while walking: 78°
Pilgrims spotted: 15 (but zero on the Variante da Franqueira)

One of our favorite moments today happened just outside of São Pedro de Rates.. a trio of young cousins offering tastes of Port wine (made with their own family's grapes), homemade traditional cake, and beaded bracelets (you pick your price). Of course we stopped. Gotta support young entrepreneurs. Say hi to Maria, Samuel, and Inês if you see them!

In Pereira we saw a giant sign for the Variante da Franqueira and decided to veer off the traditional path. It was gorgeous! We braved the incline, enjoyed the smell & shade of the trees (Eucalyptus, Oak and Cork), and the almost-traffic-less roads. The beautiful church and grounds of Nossa Senhora do Rosáro da Franqueira were a welcome reward for the hike. The views over Barcelos and environs, all the way to the Atlantic... Wow! Just. Wow.

The way down was tough. Dozens of stairs, I was really glad to have walking poles for balance. There was a stretch described as a dirt road, but it felt more like a dry creek bed. Lots of rocks, ruts, and loose dirt.

There were plenty of yellow arrows, and we'd taken a photo of the sign for more support. We don't know exactly how many extra kilometers the detour added (we think 3-4), but we arrived in Barcelos a full 90 minutes later than the estimated times in mapy.cz. (It was worth it!)

Tomorrow we're off to Casa Fernanda. Leaving Barcelos early to try to avoid the heat.

 

[grdemedeiros]

@trecile @peregrina2000 + other moderators, now that we're on the Central route, should we be posting our live-from-the-camino under a different forum? Not sure of the etiquette/helpfulness. (I started our thread under the Coastal forum because that's where we started our Camino).

 

[David Tallan]

@trecile @peregrina2000 + other moderators, now that we're on the Central route, should we be posting our live-from-the-camino under a different forum? Not sure of the etiquette/helpfulness. (I started our thread under the Coastal forum because that's where we started our Camino).

When I stitched together different Camino routes last year (Madrid, San Salvador, Primitivo, Finisterre/Muxia), I started a new thread for each route in the appropriate forum. At the beginning of each thread, in the first post, I linked to the previous threads. For example, the Primitivo thread began "This is a continuation from my Camino de Madrid and my Camino de San Salvador, which I posted in those sub-forums."

 

[grdemedeiros]

When I stitched together different Camino routes last year (Madrid, San Salvador, Primitivo, Finisterre/Muxia), I started a new thread for each route in the appropriate forum. At the beginning of each thread, in the first post, I linked to the previous threads. For example, the Primitivo thread began "This is a continuation from my Camino de Madrid and my Camino de San Salvador, which I posted in those sub-forums."

Thanks, was thinking something similar, putting a cross-post under the Central saying "check us out over there..." but continuing the complete thread here under this forum.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 6
Barcelos - Lugar do Corgo 19K
6:00 - 12:15
Highest temp while walking: 80° F
20 (12 at Fernanda's)

We finally managed to get on the road early, eager to beat the heat. We'd shipped our bags ahead so we could keep an upbeat pace (for us), because we wanted to have plenty of time to enjoy Fernanda's hospitality and meet more pilgrims.

Having only had an espresso at 6 AM, we were more than ready to stop a a tiny chapel-facing bakery for bread fresh from the oven and a meia-de-leite* (for me) and an abatanado** (for @RodrigoD). It was fun to see pilgrims when we arrived, more joined while we were there, and others coming along behind as we left. It felt - for the first time to us - like we were part of a shared pilgrimage.

Casa da Fernanda did not disappoint. Beautiful covered patio, friendly (if exhausted) pilgrims, wash tank and drying lines galore, delicious food served summer-camp style (complete with sentimental sing-along), fun conversation and convivial care. 14 people (12 when you subtract us), 8 countries. Super cool. 10/10. Recommend 100%.

If you see us, say "hey"! We'd love to meet you. I'm in the ugly brown sun hat. @RodrigoD is probably taking a picture (look for the bright orange camera strap).


*half coffee half milk
**like an extra strong Americano

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 7
Lugar do Corgo - Ponte de Lima 14 KM
8:20 - 13:15
Highest temp while walking: 85° F
Pilgrims spotted: 15 (excludes the 12 who we stayed with at Fernanda’s, all of whom were also heading towards Ponte de Lima).

Another lovely day walking primarily through the countryside and small neighborhoods with minimal road walking.

The wash basins along the way, bubbling streams and access to the river just before town were welcome treats for our feet. I don't want to jinx anything, but our feet are holding up well! Someone on this forum had recommended rubbing with Vick's or Tiger Balm, which sounded weird, but we're happy to try anything that innocuous! That, combined with regular airing of our feet seems to be a good routine for us.

We walked for a bit with Ivo and Ana and Julian & a young French woman by way of Atlanta (sorry we didn't catch your name!)

Chatting with 4 other pilgrims at a riverside restaurant, 2 from Brazil , 1 from Greece,1 from France . We love hearing other people's stories.

Folks: @RodrigoD is working on a portrait project, if you're up for a picture, and are OK for it to be published in a somewhat-small-circulation local lifestyle magazine, stop us for your 15 minutes of fame.

Pic: Camino hair don't care.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 8
Ponte de Lima - Rubiães 19 KM
6:20 - 14:30 (includes +/- 1 hour for lunch at Roulote Bar).
Highest temp while walking: 89° F
Pilgrims: we've stopped counting, as we're generally seeing 12-20 per day, many of whom we've met/seen/stayed with before.

Today was perhaps the most beautiful day yet - although it seems like I say that every day! A stunning vista at every turn, church bells ringing, gardens spilling over with both flowers and produce (my favorite was a house with grapes, roses and zucchini layered above a rock wall).

A fun sight: bread delivery boxes right next to mailboxes. That's the good life! Fresh bread straight to your door every morning.

Somehow we got off path around the hamlet of Labruja. The way had been so clearly marked for kilometer after kilometer, then we suddenly realized we hadn't seen an arrow in a while! Mapy and Google got us back on track, just before the big climb.

Hint for fellow PNW folk: if you're comfortable with hikes like Cougar Mountain, Rattlesnake Ledge and Poo Poo Point, the climb at La Bruja is comparable. Not easy, but also not as bad as we'd feared based on some photos we'd seen and stories we'd read.

Curious, does anyone know the story behind the garden of dolls?

 

[blathercamino]

Day 8
Ponte de Lima - Rubiães 19 KM
6:20 - 14:30 (includes +/- 1 hour for lunch at Roulote Bar).
Highest temp while walking: 89° F
Pilgrims: we've stopped counting, as we're generally seeing 12-20 per day, many of whom we've met/seen/stayed with before.

Today was perhaps the most beautiful day yet - although it seems like I say that every day! A stunning vista at every turn, church bells ringing, gardens spilling over with both flowers and produce (my favorite was a house with grapes, roses and zucchini layered above a rock wall).

A fun sight: bread delivery boxes right next to mailboxes. That's the good life! Fresh bread straight to your door every morning.

Somehow we got off path around the hamlet of Labruja. The way had been so clearly marked for kilometer after kilometer, then we suddenly realized we hadn't seen an arrow in a while! Mapy and Google got us back on track, just before the big climb.

Hint for fellow PNW folk: if you're comfortable with hikes like Cougar Mountain, Rattlesnake Ledge and Poo Poo Point, the climb at La Bruja is comparable. Not easy, but also not as bad as we'd feared based on some photos we'd seen and stories we'd read.

Curious, does anyone know the story behind the garden of dolls?

My wife was relieved when you said that because they just did rattlesnake with their pack.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 9
Rubiães - Valença 17 KM
6:40 - 13:00
Highest temp while walking: 86° F
It'll be a short post today - highlights were the amazing Roman road and bridges, leap-frogging with our crew from Casa Fernanda, and a super comfy bed at the end of the day.

It's been said on this forum many times, but we'll say it too; we get up with singular focus every day, to walk.

 

[peregrina2000]

@trecile @peregrina2000 + other moderators, now that we're on the Central route, should we be posting our live-from-the-camino under a different forum? Not sure of the etiquette/helpfulness. (I started our thread under the Coastal forum because that's where we started our Camino).

Great thread, @grdmedeiros. I think it’s fine the way you have it. So many people weave back and forth between Coastal and Central and Littoral and will easily find your thread.
@David Tallan’s method is what I would recommend if you were walking such distinct caminos as he did (Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo), but these routes are all so interconnected that I think it’s just fine!

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 10
Valença - O Porriño via the Camino Complementario 18.4 KM

6:00 - 13:30 (the clock math says 7.5 hours, but we lost an hour once we stepped into Spain, so it was really only 6.5)

Highest temp while walking: 74° F

Pilgrims counted: Yep, that again. We were curious since Tui is the "100K to get a Compostela" marker. You can definitely see the difference! We noted over a dozen pairs, 6 groups of 6 or more, some trios and several singletons. We estimated 70 in all.

What wonderful weather for walking today! Some clouds, some tiny sprinkles of rain, but mostly fresh breezes and peek-a-boo sunshine. A welcome change from the past few days.

The walk through the town and citadel of Valença was misty and peaceful. When we got to the very last tunnel it was so dark that we had to use my head-lamp to find the yellow arrow (and make sure we weren't going to fall into a dungeon!).

I was a bit emotional crossing the bridge. Of course we got cheesy photos of one foot on either side of the border, but also gorgeous ones of Tui in the distance.

@RodrigoD does not do well in the morning without coffee*, so we were very glad to finally find an open shop in Tui. Digging into our bag for coins, I had a moment of panic when I thought we'd left our blister kit behind (it's got Moleskin, Compeed, Bandaids, Tiger Balm, Neosporin, and tiny scissors, plus cortisone for heat rash). We didn't, phew!

I was apprehensive of this day's walk, in part because I'd read about the conflicting way-markers and the dreary last 5K into O Porriño, in part because I imagined it would be more city-like (I don't know exactly where I got that idea, but it was stuck in my brain). All my worries were quickly erased. Several parts of today's route reminded us of a farm road we walk at home, the canal-side paths and woodsy trails were lovely, and I'm in awe of every stone bridge we cross. I loved all the historical/instructional signage along the way, too.

Thanks to comments in the Wise Pilgrim guidebook and @Elle Bieling 's photo-rich ebook, we knew to keep on keeping left to skirt around the industrial zone and enjoy the Camino Complimentario.

We did not expect drag races, though! Fun times in O Porriño!

Keep us in mind tomorrow, we're starting to feel some aches and pains in our knees and feet.

*There's a trade off: leave early to beat the afternoon heat and suffer coffee-less for an hour or more... Or wait for the coffee shops to open in the morning and risk getting overheated. Most days we opt for the former.

 

[Lynne (USA/Crete Greece)]

Day 3 Angeiras - Vila do Conde ~14.4 K*
9:00 - 14:00
Highest temp while walking: 70° F
Pilgrims spotted: 7 en route, many more in town once we arrived. (We stopped counting!)

Today was much longer than anticipated. We knew about the detours** we'd have to take because some parts of the boardwalks are under construction, but we ended up going too far on one detour and had to backtrack. That added time and kilometers. We also stopped a lot to enjoy the views, air out our feet, and chat with locals.

Favorite sights: fields of corn waving in the sea breeze with a beach front chapel and the Atlantic in the distance.

The festival commissioners setting up their oil-drum open-air grill for the Fishermen's Festival of Vila Chã in honor of São Pedro.

A home decorated with mosaics featuring Porto FC (with a 3D dragon!), fishing, and several folk from the Bible.

The bird and nature sanctuary that was part of the detour at Mingelo. One part of this path - called the Percuso das Dunas - included a beautiful stream and shady grove. It was a fresh change from the seaside boardwalk strolling.

Delicious bites: Grilled sardines at Adega Gavina on the riverfront of Vila do Conde.

Despite the longer walk today, we had energy to wander around VdC, saw the view from the Convent of Santa Clara (now a fancy hotel), the aqueduct, and got our stamps at the Igreja Matriz. Are glad to finally be settling down into our place for the night!

*This includes an estimated 3 extra kilometers due to detours and our getting off track.

** If anyone would like more details about the detours, holler! I took pictures and notes, just didn't have the energy to write more tonight.

Thank you for your post with valuable information. I’ll be walking in September and would love more information on the detours. Thank you & Bom Caminho

 

[eobennett4]

Day 10
Valença - O Porriño via the Camino Complementario 18.4 KM

6:00 - 13:30 (the clock math says 7.5 hours, but we lost an hour once we stepped into Spain, so it was really only 6.5)

Highest temp while walking: 74° F

Pilgrims counted: Yep, that again. We were curious since Tui is the "100K to get a Compostela" marker. You can definitely see the difference! We noted over a dozen pairs, 6 groups of 6 or more, some trios and several singletons. We estimated 70 in all.

What wonderful weather for walking today! Some clouds, some tiny sprinkles of rain, but mostly fresh breezes and peek-a-boo sunshine. A welcome change from the past few days.

The walk through the town and citadel of Valença was misty and peaceful. When we got to the very last tunnel it was so dark that we had to use my head-lamp to find the yellow arrow (and make sure we weren't going to fall into a dungeon!).

I was a bit emotional crossing the bridge. Of course we got cheesy photos of one foot on either side of the border, but also gorgeous ones of Tui in the distance.

@RodrigoD does not do well in the morning without coffee*, so we were very glad to finally find an open shop in Tui. Digging into our bag for coins, I had a moment of panic when I thought we'd left our blister kit behind (it's got Moleskin, Compeed, Bandaids, Tiger Balm, Neosporin, and tiny scissors, plus cortisone for heat rash). We didn't, phew!

I was apprehensive of this day's walk, in part because I'd read about the conflicting way-markers and the dreary last 5K into O Porriño, in part because I imagined it would be more city-like (I don't know exactly where I got that idea, but it was stuck in my brain). All my worries were quickly erased. Several parts of today's route reminded us of a farm road we walk at home, the canal-side paths and woodsy trails were lovely, and I'm in awe of every stone bridge we cross. I loved all the historical/instructional signage along the way, too.

Thanks to comments in the Wise Pilgrim guidebook and @Elle Bieling 's photo-rich ebook, we knew to keep on keeping left to skirt around the industrial zone and enjoy the Camino Complimentario.

We did not expect drag races, though! Fun times in O Porriño!

Keep us in mind tomorrow, we're starting to feel some aches and pains in our knees and feet.

*There's a trade off: leave early to beat the afternoon heat and suffer coffee-less for an hour or more... Or wait for the coffee shops to open in the morning and risk getting overheated. Most days we opt for the former.

We're following you closely. We will walk this route in August. Thank you for the vibrant posts and thoughtfulness. And yes, the coffee vs. departure time is REAL! I recall the same struggle on my Caminho 2022 ~E & L, Portland, Oregon.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Thank you for your post with valuable information. I’ll be walking in September and would love more information on the detours. Thank you & Bom Caminho

@Lynne (USA/Crete Greece) I'll send you a direct message.

 

[henrythedog]

I’m enjoying your narrative. You’re observing (or recording more of your observations) than most.

Do you speak Portuguese? If not you’re doing a great job with English and sign-language.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 11
O Porriño - Cesantes 20 KM

8:40 - 14:45

Highest temp while walking: 71° F

Pilgrims counted: 35-45

As our English friends say, we had a bit of a lie-in today. Our place last night was so comfy, and we had been hurting, so we decided to just relax. The weather cooperated! We didn't get to our end point until well after 2 PM, but even so, we weren't heat exhausted and we weren't dripping in sweat.

My favorite spot along the way was Mos. Wow, what a cute town! A gentleman was calling to us from the little church "Sellos! Credenciales!" Inside there were real candles (rather than the little battery operated ones you see so many places nowadays), simple wooden pews, and beautiful sculptures (including one of a peregrino). A dressed-to-the-nines family soon started to arrive for what we guessed was an event. And, as all of that was happening, three guys on horseback trotted by.

After that inclines and declines, through neighborhoods and woods, some pavement, some asphalt, some dirt, a gorgeous overlook towards Redondela, and hints of sea in the air. The way down after the highest point was incredibly steep, but then the rest of the walk into town was breezy (literally and figuratively).

Delicious bites: Zorza tapa (marinated pork with fries), mixed salad, and grilled Padron peppers.

 

[grdemedeiros]

I’m enjoying your narrative. You’re observing (or recording more of your observations) than most.

Do you speak Portuguese? If not you’re doing a great job with English and sign-language.

I do speak Brazilian Portuguese. And my high school Spanish teacher will be happy to hear that some of what she taught me all those years ago is coming in handy. (Though I've heard that Gallego is very closely related to Portuguese so maybe that's what's really helping.)

 

[grdemedeiros]

We're following you closely. We will walk this route in August. Thank you for the vibrant posts and thoughtfulness. And yes, the coffee vs. departure time is REAL! I recall the same struggle on my Caminho 2022 ~E & L, Portland, Oregon.

I didn't believe @RodrigoD when he told me that we might not be able to get coffee before 8 AM. In the past we've traveled with an Italian stovetop espresso pot (true PNW'ers that we are, you know how it is!), but only when we're lodging somewhere multiple days in a row. I'm not sure ️if that'd work on Camino, we haven't stayed at many places with stoves.

 

[PAK]

Day 6
Barcelos - Lugar do Corgo 19K
6:00 - 12:15
Highest temp while walking: 80° F
20 (12 at Fernanda's)

We finally managed to get on the road early, eager to beat the heat. We'd shipped our bags ahead so we could keep an upbeat pace (for us), because we wanted to have plenty of time to enjoy Fernanda's hospitality and meet more pilgrims.

Having only had an espresso at 6 AM, we were more than ready to stop a a tiny chapel-facing bakery for bread fresh from the oven and a meia-de-leite* (for me) and an abatanado** (for @RodrigoD). It was fun to see pilgrims when we arrived, more joined while we were there, and others coming along behind as we left. It felt - for the first time to us - like we were part of a shared pilgrimage.

Casa da Fernanda did not disappoint. Beautiful covered patio, friendly (if exhausted) pilgrims, wash tank and drying lines galore, delicious food served summer-camp style (complete with sentimental sing-along), fun conversation and convivial care. 14 people (12 when you subtract us), 8 countries. Super cool. 10/10. Recommend 100%.

If you see us, say "hey"! We'd love to meet you. I'm in the ugly brown sun hat. @RodrigoD is probably taking a picture (look for the bright orange camera strap).


*half coffee half milk
**like an extra strong Americano

We're you able to make a reservation at Casa da Fernanda? How did you contact them? I'm working on my September camino and really want to spend time there.

 

[grdemedeiros]

We're you able to make a reservation at Casa da Fernanda? How did you contact them? I'm working on my September camino and really want to spend time there.

Highly recommend! You have to call her directly (she speaks a bit of English). She doesn't use WhatsApp or any reservation sites (e.g. Booking.com). +351914589521

 

[PAK]

Highly recommend! You have to call her directly (she speaks a bit of English). She doesn't use WhatsApp or any reservation sites (e.g. Booking.com). +351914589521

Thank you

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 12
Cesantes - Pontevedra via the Camino Complimentario ~20 KM

6:00 - 12:15

Highest temp while walking: not 100% sure, but it was below 70° F most of the time.

Pilgrims counted: So many! A lot! More than 100! Including one group of 35+.

Two big hills today. Up. Then down. Then up and down again. It was tough. Both of us are nursing blisters, all of which got bigger today. I regret not stopping along the Camino Complementario to soak my feet in the river.

Fun stuff: Frogs croaking in a pond. Meeting up with pilgrim friends we thought were a full day ahead of us. Colorfully painted doors. Kids, buskers, and artists greeting us with offers of treats, music, services and Buen Caminos. Gorgeous murals decoating underpasses and tunnels. Pilgrims Mass at the Capela da Virxe Peregrina.

Not so fun stuff: blisters. Mis-timing laundry. Saying goodbye to our friends for realsies. (Although rumor has it that the Camino might find a way to bring us all back together.)

Tomorrow we veer onto the Variante Espiritual. Hoping for the rain to pass quickly.

 

[Wooz]

So glad we took the Complimenterio. Not many did so we almost had it to ourselves. And Casa Pepe right at the end was a good stop for rehydration! You’re going to love the Spiritual! Thanks for letting us tag along. I’m looking back through my pictures that correspond to yours and reliving the moments.

 

[grdemedeiros]

So glad we took the Complimenterio. Not many did so we almost had it to ourselves. And Casa Pepe right at the end was a good stop for rehydration! You’re going to love the Spiritual! Thanks for letting us tag along. I’m looking back through my pictures that correspond to yours and reliving the moments.

@RodrigoD was so happy about that meandering stream! I think he might have taken more pictures in that short diversion than any other 2K (?) stretch thus far.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 13 (Lucky 13!)
Pontevedra - Combarro, a welcome short walk of 11 KM

11:00 - 14:40

Highest temp while walking: 69° F

Pilgrims counted: at least 3 dozen leaving Pontevedra between 7 and 8 AM. Only one on the Variante Espiritual at the same time as us.

One of the things I most hoped for on this Camino was to meet people and make new friends from other parts of the world. I'm happy to report that goal was met... we stayed connected to a great group of folk we met at Casa da Fernanda. Even when we weren't on exactly the same rhythm, we were always coming back together.

Pontevedra is, though, a true fork in the road. Today we knew we were really saying goodbye to almost the whole crew. An early morning breakfast, then hugs and tears (I'm not crying, you're crying!), and they continued on the Central, while we turned left onto the Variante Espiritual.

Rain, rain, and more rain. Today we were walking, talking, deep-breathing, gortex-clad REI poster children. Rainjacket? Check. Rainhat? Check. Backpack rain covers? Quick dry pants? Emergency blankets? Check, check, and check.

We dodged a downed tree, slip-slopped our way through a fern-filled path, carefully navigated a steep concrete path scored with deep lines (for traction, presumably), and took a break for apples and almonds at the Mosteiro de Santo Poio* before finally arriving at our hostel in Combarro (Nuestra Senhora del Camino, 10/10!).

This town's charm shines through despite the hoardes of tourists. Stone houses with overflowing pots of pansies and geraniums. The smell of seafood being grilled. Seaside horreos that are unique even within Galicia. I wish we could stay another day, but tomorrow it's on to Armenteira, then Barrantes.

Delicious bites: Churros and Chocolate at La Nata in Pontevedra. (Fun fact, my middle school Spanish textbook series was titled "Churros e Chocolate, shout-out to Senorita Panadora!)

*We had a lovely conversation - in "Portuñol" - with a gent from the Concello de Poio across from the monastery. He said that he's met hundreds of pilgrims over the years and has learned that every single person has their own reason for walking the Camino. Of course we talk about this all the time on this forum, but it was touching to hear it from someone who sees us walking by his place of work every. single. day.

 

[blathercamino]

Thank you so much for your posts, they are a bit of a guide for us as we begin. Today we too walked in the rain, from Porto to Labruge… was kind of nice to have the beach/coast to ourselves.

 

[Wooz]

@RodrigoD was so happy about that meandering stream! I think he might have taken more pictures in that short diversion than any other 2K (?) stretch thus far.

Just wait til he gets to the Route of Stone and Water!

 

[Rick Davidson]

Day 13 (Lucky 13!)
Pontevedra - Combarro, a welcome short walk of 11 KM

11:00 - 14:40

Highest temp while walking: 69° F

Pilgrims counted: at least 3 dozen leaving Pontevedra between 7 and 8 AM. Only one on the Variante Espiritual at the same time as us.

One of the things I most hoped for on this Camino was to meet people and make new friends from other parts of the world. I'm happy to report that goal was met... we stayed connected to a great group of folk we met at Casa da Fernanda. Even when we weren't on exactly the same rhythm, we were always coming back together.

Pontevedra is, though, a true fork in the road. Today we knew we were really saying goodbye to almost the whole crew. An early morning breakfast, then hugs and tears (I'm not crying, you're crying!), and they continued on the Central, while we turned left onto the Variante Espiritual.

Rain, rain, and more rain. Today we were walking, talking, deep-breathing, gortex-clad REI poster children. Rainjacket? Check. Rainhat? Check. Backpack rain covers? Quick dry pants? Emergency blankets? Check, check, and check.

We dodged a downed tree, slip-slopped our way through a fern-filled path, carefully navigated a steep concrete path scored with deep lines (for traction, presumably), and took a break for apples and almonds at the Mosteiro de Santo Poio* before finally arriving at our hostel in Combarro (Nuestra Senhora del Camino, 10/10!).

This town's charm shines through despite the hoardes of tourists. Stone houses with overflowing pots of pansies and geraniums. The smell of seafood being grilled. Seaside horreos that are unique even within Galicia. I wish we could stay another day, but tomorrow it's on to Armenteira, then Barrantes.

Delicious bites: Churros and Chocolate at La Nata in Pontevedra. (Fun fact, my middle school Spanish textbook series was titled "Churros e Chocolate, shout-out to Senorita Panadora!)

*We had a lovely conversation - in "Portuñol" - with a gent from the Concello de Poio across from the monastery. He said that he's met hundreds of pilgrims over the years and has learned that every single person has their own reason for walking the Camino. Of course we talk about this all the time on this forum, but it was touching to hear it from someone who sees us walking by his place of work every. single. day.

I also have enjoyed your posts. I do not think I have ever enjoyed someone’s walk diary as much as I have enjoyed yours. Well done. I am sure you are enjoying the Spiritual Varient. It was a highlight of our walk. We…4 retired colleagues…arrived SdC on June 13. We crossed over at Caminha and if we ever walked it again we would consider the earlier cross over. I look forward to your diary into SdC.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Just wait til he gets to the Route of Stone and Water!

Yeah, he flipped!!!

 

[grdemedeiros]

Thank you so much for your posts, they are a bit of a guide for us as we begin. Today we too walked in the rain, from Porto to Labruge… was kind of nice to have the beach/coast to ourselves.

Welcome! I hope you had a great first day. Are you writing a Live From The Camino? (No pressure! Really. )

 

[blathercamino]

Welcome! I hope you had a great first day. Are you writing a Live From The Camino? (No pressure! Really. )

I haven’t been, but I probably should and give back, thank you for the prodding. We are in Vila do Conde today, it’s my wife’s birthday so since the rain stopped we decided to hang on the beach and go over to Rates tomorrow.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 14
Combarro - Os Castaños, 16.4 KM (that felt like 25)

8:40 - 17:20
Including a 90 minute break for lunch and 30 minutes to soak our feet

Highest temp while walking: ~65° F

Today was a really rough day, emotionally and physically. Neither of us slept well, and we were apprehensive about the climb up out of Combarro. Those two things topped off with a muggy cloud cover and more predicted rain made us snappish and grumpy in the morning. (Even after a great breakfast at Piar de Sal near the Froiz grocery store on the PO-308.)

The climb was very steep. And because of the mist, we weren't getting any of the views we'd hoped to see along the way. At times we could barely see 50 meters ahead. It was cold, but we were sweaty (yuk!) We just couldn't get comfortable or into a rhythm. Even the random herd of horses wild-grazing with bells jingling and skittish foals hiding behind their moms didn't change our moods. (I'm embarrassed to admit.)

We finally reached the Monastery at Armenteira. What a relief! Lovely, but honestly all we wanted was rest and food. The bar right next door served a decent Pilgrims plate, and we ate with some people we knew. Being out of the weather, eating, and chatting lifted our spirits a bit. Good thing, because we had no choice but to forge on.

And then...

And then, the Route of Stone and Water. Believe the hype. It's stunning! Rodrigo compared it to Walt Disney's Sherwood Forest (with the Fox Robin Hood), or Pete Jackson's Lord of the Rings. So many different shades of green! The brook bubbling over mossy rocks. Mysterious moiños. Stone staircases. Everything we'd heard about and more. Almost immediately we found a spot to soak our feet. And we sat there for a good long while.

After that, everything felt better. We had a way to go before we got to our lodging, and now we're going to stretch, then crash.

Santiago's just around the corner! We received photos today from the fastest (ahem, youngest) of our Camino Family who've already arrived. Three more will make it tomorrow. (All walked the Central.)

Pic 1: what we'd dreamed of seeing.
Pic 2: what we saw.

 

[blathercamino]

I haven’t been, but I probably should and give back, thank you for the prodding. We are in Vila do Conde today, it’s my wife’s birthday so since the rain stopped we decided to hang on the beach and go over to Rates tomorrow.

Ok- I posted!

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 15 Os Castaños to Vilanova de Arousa 17.4 K

Day 16 Vilanova de Arousa to Escravitude (11K? 12K?)

We are still walking! Will arrive in Santiago later today and will catch up on our diary tonight.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 15
Os Castaños - Vilanova de Arousa, ~17 KM

8:40 - 14:30

Weather report: cool and misty with spots of rain. Not warm enough to even note the temp today. Cool enough that I kept my jacket on at lunch.

Pilgrims spotted: 17 (including 4 we've been leap-frogging with for days).

I can't believe we're saying to each other things like, "oh, it's only 17K today, that's easy" and "what? We're here already?" (after 6 hours of walking). We walk regularly at home, but nothing like this day after day.

Today's trek was so different from yesterday. Amazing what a good night sleep and fewer hills can do for a pilgrim! Rows upon rows of grape vines, varied paths, and ocean breezes waiting for us at the end.

One of my favorite moments today was approaching the bridge at Ponte Arnelas. Rodrigo and I were in deep conversation, keeping half an eye on the two pilgrims ahead of us, trusting them to follow the arrows. All of a sudden we realized we didn't see them or any arrows!

And just as we started turning in circles to get our bearings, a worker did that two-finger whistle thing, waving us back and sending us across the completely blocked off, construction-do-not-enter-signed, one-lane stone bridge they were resurfacing with cobblestones.

But the true gem was at the Capela de San Pedro in Mouzos. We tried to talk to the elderly gent seated by the entrance, but didn't get very far, he couldn't understand our broken Spanish. Like magic, though, another man came along who is originally from Brazil so we got to hear the whole story... Apparently the chapel used to be closed almost all day every day, but the village wanted to do something non-commercial to welcome pilgrims passing through town. So, these grandpas agreed to sit as greeters and give pilgrims stamps. Unfortunately, Senhor Jose who greeted us is the only one of the original cadre still alive (he's 98!). We didn't think to ask what will happen next, but I'm hopeful more seniors will join the welcome wagon. It's open 10-2 daily.

All of that to say, this experience made it crystal clear that our Camino through Spain has offered us fewer opportunities to connect with locals since we don't speak the language. We're still exchanging pleasantries and having simple conversations, but there's no way we could have learned the San Pedro story without the help of Senhor Alfonso (the Brazilian).

Signing off - two more sleeps, two more days of walking, 30-some-odd kilometers left.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 15
Os Castaños - Vilanova de Arousa, ~17 KM

8:40 - 14:30

Weather report: cool and misty with spots of rain. Not warm enough to even note the temp today. Cool enough that I kept my jacket on at lunch.

Pilgrims spotted: 17 (including 4 we've been leap-frogging with for days).

I can't believe we're saying to each other things like, "oh, it's only 17K today, that's easy" and "what? We're here already?" (after 6 hours of walking). We walk regularly at home, but nothing like this day after day.

Today's trek was so different from yesterday. Amazing what a good night sleep and fewer hills can do for a pilgrim! Rows upon rows of grape vines, varied paths, and ocean breezes waiting for us at the end.

One of my favorite moments today was approaching the bridge at Ponte Arnelas. Rodrigo and I were in deep conversation, keeping half an eye on the two pilgrims ahead of us, trusting them to follow the arrows. All of a sudden we realized we didn't see them or any arrows!

And just as we started turning in circles to get our bearings, a worker did that two-finger whistle thing, waving us back and sending us across the completely blocked off, construction-do-not-enter-signed, one-lane stone bridge they were resurfacing with cobblestones.

But the true gem was at the Capela de San Pedro in Mouzos. We tried to talk to the elderly gent seated by the entrance, but didn't get very far, he couldn't understand our broken Spanish. Like magic, though, another man came along who is originally from Brazil so we got to hear the whole story... Apparently the chapel used to be closed almost all day every day, but the village wanted to do something non-commercial to welcome pilgrims passing through town. So, these grandpas agreed to sit as greeters and give pilgrims stamps. Unfortunately, Senhor Jose who greeted us is the only one of the original cadre still alive (he's 98!). We didn't think to ask what will happen next, but I'm hopeful more seniors will join the welcome wagon. It's open 10-2 daily.

All of that to say, this experience made it crystal clear that our Camino through Spain has offered us fewer opportunities to connect with locals since we don't speak the language. We're still exchanging pleasantries and having simple conversations, but there's no way we could have learned the San Pedro story without the help of Senhor Alfonso (the Brazilian).

Signing off - two more sleeps, two more days of walking, 30-some-odd kilometers left.

The Camino provides!

 

[MarieJ2024]

I also have enjoyed your posts. I do not think I have ever enjoyed someone’s walk diary as much as I have enjoyed yours. Well done. I am sure you are enjoying the Spiritual Varient. It was a highlight of our walk. We…4 retired colleagues…arrived SdC on June 13. We crossed over at Caminha and if we ever walked it again we would consider the earlier cross over. I look forward to your diary into SdC.

I so totally agree. Lovelly posts.

 

[MarieJ2024]

I so totally agree. Lovely posts.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 16
Vilanova de Arousa - Escravitude 9.4 KM

8:00 - 16:30 (including the boat ride and a veeeeerrrrry long lunch in Padron)

Weather report: a perfect day of just enough clouds to not feel hot and just enough sun to not feel cold. It was marvelous to have mostly clear skies after so much mist and rain.

Pilgrims counted: ~40

I missed writing yesterday, and I feel that my images and impressions are already fuzzy. It was a very nautical day. We took the pilgrim boat from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesuras during which we got to see mussels being harvested in addition to the famous (read: only!) maritime stations of the cross. Then in Padron, we saw different art pieces showing Saint James's body being transported across the sea.

The mood on the Pilgrim boat was incredibly upbeat. Everyone made introductions and chatted and smiled, and then we all went to coffee in Pontecesuras. One returning Pilgrim told a story about the coffee shop owner helping her cousin with a medical crisis the year prior; yet another example of the generosity of spirit those who live along the Camino offer those of us walking it.

We were shocked at how fast the walk was from Pontecesuras to Padron, and then thrilled to run into our friend Helen who we hadn't seen since O Porriño! We'd just mentioned her an hour prior - and she said the same about us - then blammo! There we all were. A perfect excuse for food, wine, and stories.

After lunch, we carried on for several more kilometers to our hostel, a gorgeous old stone farmhouse, meticulously restored. It was fresh, airy and clean. We haven't stayed in many dormitories, but this one was great! One long room, with ample space between the bunk beds, light breezes coming through the open windows. There was a communal dinner with more storytelling.

Fun Sight:
Young children in summer camp pedaling their way down a sandy avenue shaded by tall, old trees (Chestnut, maybe, gotta look it up). Teachers stationed at 10-foot intervals to keep them all together.

Delicious Bites: incredibly ripe pears and peaches bought from the Padron Bajo market. We ate them then and there, juice dripping from our chins.

Padron peppers grilled and salted. A giant plate to share with friends, accompanied by 4, maybe five, or was it 6? glasses of Albariño. We should have bought a bottle!

One more sleep, then Santiago!

 

[VNwalking]

Coming late to this and happy to find it before you arrive. Buen camino tomorrow, peregrinos. A bittersweet day...

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 17
Escravitude- Santiago De Compostela 19 K
Perfect weather. Less than 75, sunny and breezy.
Pilgrims counted: impossible

So many emotions today. Determination, anticipation, pride, exhaustion, and joy. We both got teary-eyed speaking with the volunteer who granted us the Compostela. Neither one of us expected that - maybe it was sheer disbelief that we actually made it powered entirely by our own two feet (minus the boat, more about that in another post), maybe we were just grateful we didn't hurt ourselves.

More reunions with Camino friends plus the Pilgrims mass in the cathedral (another moment that brought tears to my eyes). I'm glad we have a couple of days to explore the city of Santiago and reflect while the experience is still fresh in my mind.

Fun Sights: The entire crowd of pilgrims in the square cheering and clapping at a pair of well dressed gentlemen standing on a balcony. I asked someone, "who are they?", and he said "we don't know! But they just got married!" Then, the gents kissed and the crowd went wild!

The florescent green clad group of pilgrims with sunny yellow paddles. Apparently they kayaked to Santiago?! I gotta look that up on a map! From where? Along rivers or the sea? Hmmmmm.

Delicious Bites:
Frosty mugs of beer shared with a Danish pilgrim we'd met only in the last 15K. Rodrigo loved the Rape (fish) served at dinner (true confession, I'm not a fish kinda girl).

 

[grdemedeiros]

Coming late to this and happy to find it before you arrive. Buen camino tomorrow, peregrinos. A bittersweet day...

I had to do a catch up post for yesterday so we're here now! Amazing. We're just so happy.

 

[VNwalking]

Well done! Enjoy the celebratory time in Santiago.

 

[eobennett4]

I had to do a catch up post for yesterday so we're here now! Amazing. We're just so happy.

Thank you so much for including us in your Camino reflections. We will be off and away August 3rd. Walking the same route by Aug 6th after stops in Fatima and Coimbra. Your pilgrimage was inspiring!

 

[grdemedeiros]

Thank you so much for including us in your Camino reflections. We will be off and away August 3rd. Walking the same route by Aug 6th after stops in Fatima and Coimbra. Your pilgrimage was inspiring!

I'm so glad. We'll keep a lookout for any posts from your trip.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Wrap up:
Our trip back to Porto by bus was surreal. What took us 17 days walking was a mere 3.5 hours. Seeing some of the towns from the height and position of the bus was *such* a different perspective! I wouldn't have recognized Valença if it weren't for the "Continente Bom Dia" grocery store where we bought a lunch and a breakfast during our stay there.

Coming home to the US was rough. Our Transatlantic flight was fine, but then we got stuck in Newark for 18 hours due to weather related delays and ended up sleeping on the floor. We finally got on an 8 AM flight to Seattle.

In both cases I couldn't help but reflect on how different our experiences are from pilgrims of the past. The unimaginable speed by which we move the the world. The comfort available to us. The fact that we can travel just because we want to. If past pilgrims could see all this, what would they think?!

I'm grateful for this opportunity, and hope to carry forward these lessons:
1. Patience. It's OK to be slow.
2. Doggedness. "One foot in front of the other", "One day at a time", these cliché phrases have a whole new meaning to me now.
3. Strength. I'm physically stronger than I thought.

We're already dreaming of our next distance walking experience. It might be the Camino Frances, but it could be the Via di Francesco (Italy), the Camino de Fé (Brazil), or the Kumano Kodo (Japan), we don't know yet! But we'll report & research here once we've made up our minds.

Thanks to everyone for all your help, during and while planning our trip. We love this forum!

 

[eamackey]

Day 3 Angeiras - Vila do Conde ~14.4 K*
9:00 - 14:00
Highest temp while walking: 70° F
Pilgrims spotted: 7 en route, many more in town once we arrived. (We stopped counting!)

Today was much longer than anticipated. We knew about the detours** we'd have to take because some parts of the boardwalks are under construction, but we ended up going too far on one detour and had to backtrack. That added time and kilometers. We also stopped a lot to enjoy the views, air out our feet, and chat with locals.

Favorite sights: fields of corn waving in the sea breeze with a beach front chapel and the Atlantic in the distance.

The festival commissioners setting up their oil-drum open-air grill for the Fishermen's Festival of Vila Chã in honor of São Pedro.

A home decorated with mosaics featuring Porto FC (with a 3D dragon!), fishing, and several folk from the Bible.

The bird and nature sanctuary that was part of the detour at Mingelo. One part of this path - called the Percuso das Dunas - included a beautiful stream and shady grove. It was a fresh change from the seaside boardwalk strolling.

Delicious bites: Grilled sardines at Adega Gavina on the riverfront of Vila do Conde.

Despite the longer walk today, we had energy to wander around VdC, saw the view from the Convent of Santa Clara (now a fancy hotel), the aqueduct, and got our stamps at the Igreja Matriz. Are glad to finally be settling down into our place for the night!

*This includes an estimated 3 extra kilometers due to detours and our getting off track.

** If anyone would like more details about the detours, holler! I took pictures and notes, just didn't have the energy to write more tonight.

Wondering how you reserved a place to stay each night?

 

[grdemedeiros]

Wondering how you reserved a place to stay each night?

I sent you a DM.