LIVE from the Camino BP on the Vadinense July 2024

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 0: San Vicente de la Barquera

This morning I left Aguilar de Campoo (on another Camino) to travel to San Vicente de la Barquera. I will walk the Camino Vadiniense from here to Mansilla de las Mulas. About 8-10 days I think.

(Note from the mods: To read about the first part of BP’s 2024 Camino, go here.)

Last time I was in San Vicente was 13 years ago on the Camino del Norte. I didn't visit the town then as I didn't stay the night here. So it's a brand new place for me to discover! I've been walking in different parts of Spain for more than three weeks now and this is the first time I smell the air of the sea... It's refreshing.



I stay at Hostal Tapuca, 45 euros, because a cramped municipal albergue on the Camino del Norte is not for me. Seems I will be staying in albergues for the next two days though since accommodation on the Vadiniense is somewhat limited...

I will be posting about my journey here, if anyone's interested. You're invited to follow!

 

[setmeravelles]

¡Buen Camino!

San Vicente is one of my favourite pueblos in Spain. The sunset from the castle is spectacular if you're able to.

As an aside, the albergue there is one of the reasons I now opt for private rooms if possible...although that was in 2016, so a lot may have changed with the albergue (and I hope it has).

I'm pretty set on the Levante for my fall Camino, but the rest of the Olvidado and Vadinense (and Catalán) are on my bucket list...so many Caminos, so little time. Looking forward to reading all about it!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

As an aside, the albergue there is one of the reasons I now opt for private rooms if possible...although that was in 2016, so a lot may have changed with the albergue (and I hope it has).

Please do tell ... Apart from too many people: not well maintained?

San Vicente is one of my favourite pueblos in Spain.

I understand that! I just took a walk next to the sea, watched the boats and the fishies, now relaxing in the cafés. Lots of tourists. And more pilgrims (visibly) here than in Puente la Reina a week ago!

 

[setmeravelles]

Please do tell ... Apart from too many people: not well maintained?

I understand that! I just took a walk next to the sea, watched the boats and the fishies, now relaxing in the cafés. Lots of tourists. And more pilgrims (visibly) here than in Puente la Reina a week ago!

Yep, too crowded (beds close together and a lot of them), not maintained, unfriendly hospitaleros at the time...I just looked at my travel journal to see if it said anything about why I have a bad memory of it, and apparently the hospitaleros yelled at people who arrived before 15:30 (even if we didn't have any problems waiting until then), and only two showers worked, uncomfortable beds, but at least there weren't any bed bugs.

I do think I liked it better than the one in La Isla.

I really need to visit the town again though.

 

[peregrina2000]

As an aside, the albergue there is one of the reasons I now opt for private rooms if possible...

I had a very awful experience there, but it was in 2006, when I was accused of being an imperialist by the hospitalero because of my nationality, along with a lecture about hegemony. I was the only one of our group of five to understand, and I didn’t translate! But then we were scolded mightily when we declined the communal dinner — our three German friends were leaving from San Vicente the next morning and we had walked with them for several weeks. We just wanted something together and without communal chit chat and soul baring. But we were given pretty bad treatment, so bad that we just left the next morning without breakfast.

I also had a good experience at that albergue, with the same hospitalero several years later! At that point it was the only game in town for me as I was bearing off onto the Lebañiego/Vadiniense like BP is doing! I think it was because I offered to translate all of the dire warnings about the next day’s stage on the Norte, having to do with a traffic circle and busy road. I wasn’t going that way, so I didn’t really have to pay attention, just translate the words. Ah, the memories!

p.s. Edited to add — I just checked on Gronze, and there is no albergue listed there anymore and other websites say that it’s closed. @setmeravelles, was this place up near the castle? Lots of dampness and models of boats all around?



Buen camino, BP! How did you get from Aguilar to San Vicente?

 

[setmeravelles]

I had a very awful experience there, but it was in 2006, when I was accused of being an imperialist by the hospitalero because of my nationality, along with a lecture about hegemony. I was the only one of our group of five to understand, and I didn’t translate! But then we were scolded mightily when we declined the communal dinner — our three German friends were leaving from San Vicente the next morning and we had walked with them for several weeks. We just wanted something together and without communal chit chat and soul baring. But we were given pretty bad treatment, so bad that we just left the next morning without breakfast.

I also had a good experience at that albergue, with the same hospitalero several years later! At that point it was the only game in town for me as I was bearing off onto the Lebañiego/Vadiniense like BP is doing! I think it was because I offered to translate all of the dire warnings about the next day’s stage on the Norte, having to do with a traffic circle and busy road. I wasn’t going that way, so I didn’t really have to pay attention, just translate the words. Ah, the memories!

p.s. Edited to add — I just checked on Gronze, and there is no albergue listed there anymore and other websites say that it’s closed. @setmeravelles, was this place up near the castle? Lots of dampness and models of boats all around?



Buen camino, BP! How did you get from Aguilar to San Vicente?

Yes! It was near the castle. That might actually be how I saw the sunset from the castle. One of my fave moments of the Norte. I don't think they had a communal dinner when I was there. I don't remember anything about breakfast. I'm glad you had a better experience the second time though and it was somewhat redeemed. For whatever reason, I just have strong memories of not liking that one.

One of these times I'm going to get to the Lebaniego/Vadiniense...

 

[peregrina2000]

One of these times I'm going to get to the Lebaniego/Vadiniense...

I for one can’t wait to hear BP’s updates, because things have changed since I walked. They’ve lengthened the route to get people off the road on the first day, with a stage proposed to end in Cades, which wasn’t there when I walked. And then there is also a good way to avoid the death-defying walk into Potes on a narrow and extremely busy road. It’s spectacular scenery, going through a gorge and all that, but with no shoulder it was very hard to enjoy. So I’m interested to hear how it goes, BP!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

when I was accused of being an imperialist by the hospitalero because of my nationality, along with a lecture about hegemony.

That's what I always knew about you, Laurie! No but seriously: I can't believe he did that. I would have served him a few warm fishes! That is: letting him know how rude he was. But I guess that would only escalate the situation...

Getting from Aguilar to San Vicente was a head-scratcher. Before people yell "Rome to Río" I will say that I never liked that site. Not going in to details here, but it misses things. I had to look up on my own: train from Aguilar to Santander (less than 2 hours) and then bus from Santander to San Vicente (about 1 hour).

The location of the train station in Aguilar looked strangely familiar to me when I studied it on Google maps yesterday. It's about 2 kms away from town. Then it dawned on me, and the hair stood up on the back of my neck: I passed that station last year on my tarmac-drenched slog into Aguilar to reach Hostal Los Olmos! I had sworn I would never walk that way again. And now I had to walk the exact same way in reverse, from Los Olmos to the train station!! Gaaah!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I for one can’t wait to hear BP’s updates, because things have changed since I walked. They’ve lengthened the route to get people off the road on the first day, with a stage proposed to end in Cades, which wasn’t there when I walked. And then there is also a good way to avoid the death-defying walk into Potes on a narrow and extremely busy road. It’s spectacular scenery, going through a gorge and all that, but with no shoulder it was very hard to enjoy. So I’m interested to hear how it goes, BP!

Well Gronze scares the bejesus out of me by saying it's the hardest Camino of all the Spanish Caminos. If I stop posting, call the Guardia Civil...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Yes! It was near the castle. That might actually be how I saw the sunset from the castle. One of my fave moments of the Norte. I don't think they had a communal dinner when I was there. I don't remember anything about breakfast. I'm glad you had a better experience the second time though and it was somewhat redeemed. For whatever reason, I just have strong memories of not liking that one.

One of these times I'm going to get to the Lebaniego/Vadiniense...

It's all cloudy here, just as it was on those places on the Camino Catalán that are famous for their sunsets (like Arrés? for some reason). I don't have any luck with sunsets this year...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

The albergue in Lafuente is completo tomorrow so I will try to reach Cicera wich is about 40 kms from here... Or of course stay in Cades if it's too much, which is the usual end of stage one... Dang, I didn't think Lafuente would be full, but there you have it...

 

[peregrina2000]

Well Gronze scares the bejesus out of me by saying it's the hardest Camino of all the Spanish Caminos.

I will have to disagree. The stages in the Picos are BEAUTIFUL and tough, but there are other caminos with harder ascents than what I remember from the camino you are going to start. Like the Olvidado. The stage from Potes to Fuente Dé and Fuente Dé to the pass at Pandetrave are gobsmackingly beautiful (I won’t spoil it for you with pictures). After the pass you have a lot of downhill and a lot of asphalt. Things pick up mountain-wise again around Cistierna, for a day or so. I had heard that the local association was going to re-route some of the stages because from Riaño to Mansilla is along the Esla river, which is nice, but is a lot of asphalt.

ANYWAY… you will be fine, I am sure, and I can’t wait to hear all about it.

If your experience at San Juan de la Peña has given you an enthusiasm for ancient churches, you should not under any circumstances miss San Miguel de la Escalada (10 C mozárabe) on the day into Mansilla (but I’ll nag you more about that later. )

 

[peregrina2000]

The albergue in Lafuente is completo tomorrow

My guess is that they are hikers and others who want to enjoy the same mountain splendor that you do! Sorry to hear that, BP.

The “normal” stage when I walked was San Vicente to LaFuente, but it was a LOT of asphalt. Nothing too dangerous, unlike the next day, though. I know you hate to walk short stages, but I bet the “new” route to Cades is much more beautiful.

 

[AlanSykes]

I had a very awful experience there, but it was in 2006, when I was accused of being an imperialist by the hospitalero because of my nationality, along with a lecture about hegemony.

Sounds like the albergue from hell in San Vicente de la Barquera amusingly described in Jean-Christophe Rufin's "Immortelle randonnée" (pp113-120, "Dans l'antre du gourou"). After he paid for his accommodation, the hospitalero attacked Rufin for living in a rich quartier of Paris while he had stayed, as a gastarbeiter, in a "chambre de bonne" in Passy. Rufin describes the communal dinner as smelling as if it was destined for the house dog, not for for pilgrims. Rather than staying on in the place he compared with his grandfather's deportation from France in 1943, he rescued his credencial and slept outdoors.

 

[VNwalking]

Gronze scares the bejesus out of me by saying it's the hardest Camino of all the Spanish Caminos

Well you'll just have to stoke your engines with some extra napolitanas on your waybout of town, and hope for the best.

Really looking forward to reading your experiences on this camino!

 

[LTfit]

I'm also looking forward to hearing about your experience. It just may be my next Camino

p.s. I've stayed in the albergue in San Vicente de la Barquera twice and never had a problem (before and after its reopening). I think that you guys might be the problem

 

[lt56ny]

I had a very awful experience there, but it was in 2006, when I was accused of being an imperialist by the hospitalero because of my nationality, along with a lecture about hegemony. I was the only one of our group of five to understand, and I didn’t translate! But then we were scolded mightily when we declined the communal dinner — our three German friends were leaving from San Vicente the next morning and we had walked with them for several weeks. We just wanted something together and without communal chit chat and soul baring. But we were given pretty bad treatment, so bad that we just left the next morning without breakfast.

I also had a good experience at that albergue, with the same hospitalero several years later! At that point it was the only game in town for me as I was bearing off onto the Lebañiego/Vadiniense like BP is doing! I think it was because I offered to translate all of the dire warnings about the next day’s stage on the Norte, having to do with a traffic circle and busy road. I wasn’t going that way, so I didn’t really have to pay attention, just translate the words. Ah, the memories!

p.s. Edited to add — I just checked on Gronze, and there is no albergue listed there anymore and other websites say that it’s closed. @setmeravelles, was this place up near the castle? Lots of dampness and models of boats all around?



Buen camino, BP! How did you get from Aguilar to San Vicente?

I have had a few similar experiences like the one you have mentioned. As soon as someone starts in I tell them you have no idea who I am, what I believe, who or what organizations I support, you know nothing of my character so before you waste any more of your sanctimonious breath tell it to someone who may actually give a S##t and want to hear your cr@p. I can't see you ever saying that but then again we only know each other by messages, but it works for me . You are a really smart woman I am sure you can clean it up and be even more effective.
The municipal has been replaced by this private albergue that has received excellent reviews on Gronze.com

Nómada Hostel | Albergue de Peregrinos en San Vicente de la Barquera | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Nómada Hostel, en San Vicente de la Barquera: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[peregrina2000]

The municipal has been replaced by this private albergue that has received excellent reviews on Gronze.com

p.s. I've stayed in the albergue in San Vicente de la Barquera twice and never had a problem (before and after its reopening). I think that you guys might be the problem

LT, it looks like it’s closed. At least that’s what our dear lower case “LT” says

 

[Barbara06]

I stayed in the albergue in San Vicente de la Barquera in 2017 and didn't find it very different to many other albergues i have stayed in on various spanish caminos (they are often crowded and not much comfort) but for the price we pay it always seems normal to me.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 1: San Vicente de la Barquera - Cicera, 40 kms (but I cheated on the carretera for a while)

It started to rain as soon as I left San Vicente and it wouldn't stop until I got to Lafuente after 35 kms! At the bar in Serdio, in the morning, I got my first taste of the Camino del Norte: 15-20 haggard pilgrims hiding from the rain in a café and one barman trying to serve all of us breakfast at the same time. I was happy I wouldn't stay with the crowds on the Norte for long...

1 km after Serdio the Camino Vadiniense breaks away from the Camino del Norte. One other pilgrim followed me on the Vadiniense but after the next village, Muñorrodero, I walked alone until Cicera. I think he stopped earlier.

From the split, the Vadiniense was muddy and slippery in the rain. I walked downhill in the middle of a stream that invaded the entire path. I wished i had stayed on the country road until Muñorrodero because the Vadiniense and the Norte meet again there. (They get really close at least. I saw waymarks for both of them.) After that: a path near the river Nansa was on the program. I walked about 300 mtrs of the river path in the mud, in the pouring rain, in the wind. Then I said: "No." And I changed to the country road (asphalt) all the way to Cades. It would have taken me forever to navigate through the mud and I had a stage of 40 kms in front of me.

The Cantabrian mountains between Cades and Cicera are breathtaking. But the crest was covered in mist as it was raining intermittently all day. I never got a clear view of my surroundings.

There are about 10 pilgrims in the albergue (8 euros) in Cicera. All Spanish except for a girl of unknown nationality. I was the last one to arrive. As there are several dormitories and the Spanish guys' room is really cramped, the girl and I are in a separate one so I have a lot of space.

Tomorrow is a short stage to Potes, only 20 kms. I would like to stay in a hostal but everything is full! So I have to go to the municipal albergue again. Apparently there's some kind of old piece of wood that there's a lot of hullabaloo over in Potes. The hotels fill up in the weekend and tourists abound. Maybe I'll go and check out that prehistoric splinter, if it's not raining. Otherwise I'll be staying inside, that's for sure!

I'll be back!

 

[Juliana K]

Day 0: San Vicente de la Barquera

This morning I left Aguilar de Campoo (on another Camino) to travel to San Vicente de la Barquera. I will walk the Camino Vadiniense from here to Mansilla de las Mulas. About 8-10 days I think.

Last time I was in San Vicente was 13 years ago on the Camino del Norte. I didn't visit the town then as I didn't stay the night here. So it's a brand new place for me to discover! I've been walking in different parts of Spain for more than three weeks now and this is the first time I smell the air of the sea... It's refreshing.

View attachment 174393

I stay at Hostal Tapuca, 45 euros, because a cramped municipal albergue on the Camino del Norte is not for me. Seems I will be staying in albergues for the next two days though since accommodation on the Vadiniense is somewhat limited...

I will be posting about my journey here, if anyone's interested. You're invited to follow!

View attachment 174395

I walked Lebaniego and Vadiniense two separate times. I enjoyed very much and if you want to stay Riaño, I Recommend for booking a head of time. I couldn’t find any room because it was on Saturday so I walked to Crémenes it about 40km. Enjoy your Camino and Buen Camino.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I walked Lebaniego and Vadiniense two separate times. I enjoyed very much and if you want to stay Riaño, I Recommend for booking a head of time. I couldn’t find any room because it was on Saturday so I walked to Crémenes it about 40km. Enjoy your Camino and Buen Camino.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I don't know what day I'll be in Riaño or if I'll even stay there: I just look one day ahead... As it's Friday today I don't think it'll be the weekend though.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I'm also looking forward to hearing about your experience. It just may be my next Camino

Everyone is gushing about the views on this Camino, but what if it keeps raining like today?! I hope you'll have better weather than me when you walk!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

but I bet the “new” route to Cades is much more beautiful.

Oh! It must be the one I dodged because of the weather. I was off Camino from approximately Muñorrodero until Cades. The official Camino goes along the river for a while. Gronze says you can even extend the river walk and stay on it longer on your way to Cades. But the extended walk is not suitable in rain they say. Well, my opinion is that no part of the river walk is manageable in rain... But maybe I'm just one feeble pilgrim!

 

[LTfit]

Oh! It must be the one I dodged because of the weather. I was off Camino from approximately Muñorrodero until Cades. The official Camino goes along the river for a while. Gronze says you can even extend the river walk and stay on it longer on your way to Cades. But the extended walk is not suitable in rain they say. Well, my opinion is that no part of the river walk is manageable in rain... But maybe I'm just one feeble pilgrim!

Hope the weather improves for you. Being in the mountains and having it rain would make us all feeble pilgrims.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Holy mother of cows! That second ascent was brutal!! I don't know if it's over yet: I found the albergue in Cabañes open and the señora who is cleaning opened the bar for me! I thought there would be nothing before Tama (close to Potes) but here I am, catching my breath with a soda. Much better weather today! And cows not afraid of humans!


I like that this one stopped and posed for me:

 

[VNwalking]

cows not afraid of humans!

Did you get licked? They love salt, and those tongues are something else.

 

[LTfit]

I'm already sold on this Camino .

Greetings from the Cathedral de Santiago. Reading your post while waiting for la Misa de Peregrinos to start as I missed it on the day I arrived.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Did you get licked? They love salt, and those tongues are something else.

No, I kept my distance! They were cute though.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 2: Cicera - Potes, 20 kms

There is a restaurant in Cicera that opens at 7 p.m. and dinner is served from 8. The food was meh. 18 euros is too much for what I got. (The guy even forgot to serve me my water! No glass on my table. I thought that was funny. Didn't remind him.) But it was the only game in town (hence the prices, I'm sure) and I needed a full meal if I was going to pull off the stage between Cicera and Potes the next day.

There is also information about breakfast in the albergue: you phone a number the day before, between certain hours, and you can get breakfast the next day. But I didn't read the details. This morning I gnawed on my dry bread as usual, with old cream cheese, washed it down with tap water, and set out.

From Cicera the Camino follows a path through the deep green woods up the mountain side. The path was rocky, wet and muddy. And relentlessly steep. I slipped several times, but never fell.

The views from the top were spectacular. I was walking high above the clouds; the few villages that could be seen looked minuscule from the heights. It's hard to capture on camera, but here is an attempt:

Then down to Lebeña where a vending machine magically appeared as I walked by. I bought an Aquarius for later use because I knew I had one more hill to conquer. There is also a "café" in Libeña, during some seasons of the year, probably connected to the camping area that I passed in the village. It's only a hut but there would be coffee...if I had I arrived 15 minutes later. It opens at 10. I was craving coffee so hard, as mountain number 2 rapidly approached in front of me...

Ascent number 2 starts at the bridge on the country road in Lebeña. It goes through a hamlet, where there's a split: you can take the normal Camino to the right, or Near-Death-Experience-Camino to the left. At least that's how Gronze makes it sound. I usually value my life on the Camino so I chose normal Camino. It went on forever, zig-zagging up the mountain to the village of Cabañes where there are two albergues. I concentrated on deep breathing and moving in a slow but steady rhythm up the mountain. But it was hard. My t-shirt was soaked in sweat, as were my pants from the sweat dripping continuously from my nose, my chin... If this was the usual Camino, I wonder how the alternative was. The views were nice, but not as fantastic as earlier this morning.

There is advertisement for one of the albergues all the way up to Cabañes. Name and phone number, but also Bar, Café... could it be true? Everyone I'd spoken to said there would be no services until Tama, a couple of kms before Potes. When I used my last strength to veer off to the albergue and its terrace, the windows stood wide open and a woman was working inside, probably preparing for the next load of pilgrims in the afternoon. I sheepishly asked if the bar was open and expected the door to slam in my face. But the woman was like "No problem". I could sit down, for the first time that day, with a soda in my hand and ponder about the two heafty ascents I had completed. The sun didn't peek through the clouds until I left the albergue. I wondered what those two hills must feel like in the scorching sun...
In Pendes, a smart man had put up a quesería (selling cheese) on the Camino, also selling cold beverages. There is money to make on this stage as most pilgrims will be hungry and thirsty after walking in the mountains. A real café in Cabañes or Pendes (not just albergues and queserías) would do well I think. Maybe my next project!

I arrived in Potes at about 2 p.m. Potes is supposed to be one of the most beautiful towns in Spain. If you can see it through the tourists, advertisement, hotel signs and cheap souvenir shops on the streets. I feel as if I'm in downtown Barcelona. Maybe things will cool down in the evening, as was the case with Monestir de Montserrat that I visited a few weeks ago on another Camino.

Tomorrow: Espinama. Oh and I'll walk by that monastery outside Potes with that log thing that belonged to Jesus or whatever. If there is a guided tour I may make a visit!

To be continued

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I'm already sold on this Camino .

Greetings from the Cathedral de Santiago. Reading your post while waiting for la Misa de Peregrinos to start as I missed it on the day I arrived.

It's the best way to prepare for Misa, I think! Have fun!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I am gobsmacked, to use Laurie's term, by this stage! The massive Picos de Europa look good in the sunshine! Now I know where in Spain I want to buy a home... Or put up a lucrative café

 

[LTfit]

I am gobsmacked, to use Laurie's term, by this stage! The massive Picos de Europa look good in the sunshine! Now I know where in Spain I want to buy a home... Or put up a lucrative café
View attachment 174583

Jipppeee, so glad the weather has improved and you can now see those wonderful mountains.

When all is said and done, it will be interesting to hear how this Camino compares to the Olvidado.

Ultreia!

 

[peregrina2000]

When all is said and done, it will be interesting to hear how this Camino compares to the Olvidado.

That’s a good question. I think that the mountain stages of the Vadiniense/Lebaniego are more spectacular (the area around Fuente Dé and Potes is higher and more majestic than even those days from Vegacervera), but there are fewer mountain stages in the overall Vadiniense/Lebaniego than in the Olvidado. On the Lebaniengo/Vadiniense, the mountains are condensed more in the beginning of the walk, while the mountain stages in the Olvidado come mostly in the second half, after Aguilar de Campóo. And I personally think the flatter parts of the Olvidado (Bilbao to Aguilar) are more interesting and beautiful than the flatter parts that come after the Pandetrave pass. But I would happily walk either again! I have heard scattered comments that the Vadiniense has been re-routed, so I am looking forward to seeing what BP finds.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

---

Day 3: Potes - Espinama, 26 kms

There was a slog of 3 kms to reach the monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana in the morning. As I arrived before 8 o'clock everything was closed of course. The pilgrim's office wouldn't open until 10. Compared to the dramatic Montserrat in Cataluña and the charming San Juan de la Peña in Aragón, this monastery wasn't much to look at. Just your regular truck-stop monastery down by the road. But after only 500 mtrs I had a fantastic view of the mountains and the valley. One would need a panoramic foto to capture the beauty, but this is a part of it:



In Beares, an arrow made me turn left. Which led me to a dirt track. Which got more and more overgrown until it dissolved into a meadow. I had gone too far to turn back when I understood this was not the Camino, or any camino at all. I angrily bushwhacked with grass up to my chest, in a region that is infested with ticks according to Gronze, trying to get to the country road as fast as possible. But the river Deba, running along the road, hindered me. There was no way of getting over the river without wading in water up to my thighs. I continued pushing through the bushes... I saw a few stones I could maybe step on. I had to hang on to a branch over the water, like a monkey, to be able to land on the first one. I only had one shot... I landed right. The rest of the stones were easy to tip-toe on to the other side of the river.

Then I needed to reach the road above me, which was impossible because of the vegetation and the inclination. I was trapped down by the river. I continued for a while, then saw something that looked like path, an opening that perhaps animals use to reach the water... I scrambled up amongst the ticks and finally put my feet on the asphalt. Not my best Camino moment!

After this embarrassment, the bar-albergue San Pelayo was only a stone's throw away. I checked my clothes and body for ticks, indulged in comfort eating of tostadas with butter and jam, and read my maps carefully before trying to find the Camino again. I had to walk back and forth in the village for a good while before I understood where to go next.

I forgot my mishappenings as I approached Picos de Europa, a mountain range with tops as high as 2500-3000 mtrs. I was in awe as I walked through the little villages of Redo, of Mogrovejo. To think that the tourist trap of Potes is dubbed one of the most beautiful towns in Spain when the following villages are much more picturesque, have a more dramatic setting, and have one tenth of the tourists..!



Picos de Europa are the most beautiful mountains I have seen in Spain, period. Sure, I've walked the Camino San Salvador and seen the mountains there. But this is something else.



From Areños there is a walk of about 11 kms next to the river, with a lot of ups and downs. Nothing as serious as yesterday's stage though. As I approached Espinama more and more hikers appeared, for example a group of 20 people trying to help each other to cross a stream. I think this group is staying in the Albergue turístico de Briz, where I am tonight. They have their own dorm, thankfully! I can't believe there was a bed available for me here because Espinama is full of people. The girl at the reception said that pilgrims recently have had trouble finding a place to sleep in Portilla de la Reina (next stage) and have had to take a taxi to another town. But I've managed to snatch an individual room in the albergue in Portilla, which I am looking forward to tomorrow!

I'll see you there!

 

[LTfit]

Oh some of your adventure sounds much like a few stages for me on the Olvidado last year. In spite of my following Cuñarro's (Enderjace) Wikiloc tracks I managed to loose the trail and had to find my way through bush, ending up with bloody calves. When walking alone you can only bitch at yourself

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Oh some of your adventure sounds much like a few stages for me on the Olvidado last year. In spite of my following Cuñarro's (Enderjace) Wikiloc tracks I managed to loose the trail and had to find my way through bush, ending up with bloody calves. When walking alone you can only bitch at yourself

Yes I saw the pictures of your wounded/bloody legs in that thread! (Because you're talking about Arija - Olea, right?) I thought about that when I did that stage. By now there is an improvised opening, sort of, in the barbed wire. A couple of 100 mtrs later there is a proper gate. You can read about how I experienced that stage if you find it interesting...

 

[caminka]

You have perfect weather for the Picos, BP! I am still sallivating at the amazing pictures. This camino has been on my radar for a while now. Perhaps I will do it your style and hopped a few next time!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 4: Espinama - Portilla de la Reina, 26 kms

Paolo the Italian and I tried to sleep in our dorm as the 20 Spaniards were screaming and howling at the Eurocup (football) all through the evening. The girl at the reception must have foreseen this as she put us in a separate dorm. Where in the building the poor Belgian girl ended up I do not know but I hope it was far away from a TV.

This morning I wanted to visit the village of Fuente Dé, which is partially encircled by the vertical cliffs at the bottom of Picos de Europa. Gronze says it's possible to skip Fuente Dé, but the girl at the reception in Espinama said it's a must.

Fuente Dé is a modern place centered around the country road, but the location at the feet of the mountain is awesome. The restaurant at the parador is open 24 hours so I went there for breakfast. I walked right into the buffet destined for the fancy guests at the parador and felt totally out of place. But I could eventually order toasts and a café con leche from the friendly waitress. After all, I can't be the only pilgrim or hiker stumbling into that restaurant in the morning.

From Fuente Dé the Camino slowly rises through the forest and the pastures until you see the mountains in all their glory. Except for one or two spots the ascent is gradual and not difficult at all. No rocks, no mud, no roots, just a broad dirt road that is very comfortable to walk on. The whole stage should be easy to do by bike, all the way from Espinama to Portilla de la Reina. But strangely enough I didn't see any cyclists.



It was a 5-star day. I never walked a stage like this on any Camino. I don't know what to say. My only complaint is that the mountains don't fit into my camera:




I soon reached the highest point on a Camino in Spain: about 1.800 mtrs at Horcada de Valcavao. I fought against the winds at the top as I marvelled at the panoramic views.



From here and down to Portilla the mountains became considerably less sharp; more rounded and greener. I had entered Castilla-León, in the province of León, on this stage. From now on the terrain will become flatter all the way to Mansilla de las Mulas on the Camino Francés. The silhouette of the Picos de Europa can actually be seen from the Camino Francés as you approach León, as fellow pilgrims pointed them out to me when I walked my first Camino.

I met an extended group of about 40 day hikers walking in the opposite direction, towards Horcada de Valcavao, and after that I saw their tourist bus conveniently waiting for them at Puerto de Pandetrave (at about 1.600 mtrs). From there I walked the remaining 11 kms on asphalt on a road that gently led me down to the albergue in Portilla de la Reina. A private room with bathroom, aah!! 37 euros (breakfast included) and it's worth every penny.

Tomorrow: a baby stage of 20 kms to Riaño.

 

[setmeravelles]

You're making me reconsider my Camino de Levante this fall and doing this one instead. Amazing pics. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

You're making me reconsider my Camino de Levante this fall and doing this one instead. Amazing pics. Thanks for sharing!

The Vadiniense is short compared to the Levante. Maybe you can squeeze in the Vadiniense at the end of the Levante (with a bit of travelling)?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

These photos are absolutely incredible!

You are seriously making me rethink my choice for next year.

Those of you who have done both, how does this compare to the Olvidado? Is the latter even close to this scenic?

I had planned to walk the Olvidado from Bilbao, now I'm wondering if I should stay on the Norte until San Vicente de la Barquera, then take the Vadiniese until it joins the Olvidado in Cistierna.

Opinions?

 

[Juliana K]

4: Espinama - Portilla de la Reina, 26 kms

Paolo the Italian and I tried to sleep in our dorm as the 20 Spaniards were screaming and howling at the Eurocup (football) all through the evening. The girl at the reception must have foreseen this as she put us in a separate dorm. Where in the building the poor Belgian girl ended up I do not know but I hope it was far away from a TV.

This morning I wanted to visit the village of Fuente Dé, which is partially encircled by the vertical cliffs at the bottom of Picos de Europa. Gronze says it's possible to skip Fuente Dé, but the girl at the reception in Espinama said it's a must.

Fuente Dé is a modern place centered around the country road, but the location at the feet of the mountain is awesome. The restaurant at the parador is open 24 hours so I went there for breakfast. I walked right into the buffet destined for the fancy guests at the parador and felt totally out of place. But I could eventually order toasts and a café con leche from the friendly waitress. After all, I can't be the only pilgrim or hiker stumbling into that restaurant in the morning.

From Fuente Dé the Camino slowly rises through the forest and the pastures until you see the mountains in all their glory. Except for one or two spots the ascent is gradual and not difficult at all. No rocks, no mud, no roots, just a broad dirt road that is very comfortable to walk on. The whole stage should be easy to do by bike, all the way from Espinama to Portilla de la Reina. But strangely enough I didn't see any cyclists.

View attachment 174680

It was a 5-star day. I never walked a stage like this on any Camino. I don't know what to say. My only complaint is that the mountains don't fit into my camera:

View attachment 174681
View attachment 174682View attachment 174683View attachment 174685View attachment 174690

I soon reached the highest point on a Camino in Spain: about 1.800 mtrs at Horcada de Valcavao. I fought against the winds at the top as I marvelled at the panoramic views.

View attachment 174686View attachment 174689

From here and down to Portilla the mountains became considerably less sharp; more rounded and greener. I had entered Castilla-León, in the province of León, on this stage. From now on the terrain will become flatter all the way to Mansilla de las Mulas on the Camino Francés. The silhouette of the Picos de Europa can actually be seen from the Camino Francés as you approach León, as fellow pilgrims pointed them out to me when I walked my first Camino.

I met an extended group of about 40 day hikers walking in the opposite direction, towards Horcada de Valcavao, and after that I saw their tourist bus conveniently waiting for them at Puerto de Pandetrave (at about 1.600 mtrs). From there I walked the remaining 11 kms on asphalt on a road that gently led me down to the albergue in Portilla de la Reina. A private room with bathroom, aah!! 37 euros (breakfast included) and it's worth every penny of it.

Tomorrow: a baby stage of 20 kms to Riaño.

View attachment 174687Wow!!!! your photos are more gorgeous than mine which used iphone14+.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

These photos are absolutely incredible!

You are seriously making me rethink my choice for next year.

Those of you who have done both, how does this compare to the Olvidado? Is the latter even close to this scenic?

I had planned to walk the Olvidado from Bilbao, now I'm wondering if I should stay on the Norte until San Vicente de la Barquera, then take the Vadiniese until it joins the Olvidado in Cistierna.

Opinions?

There are the so-called "mountain stages" on the Olvidado, that are optional. But I walked the regular stages so I don't know about them. Although I cannot believe that a few one-day alternative routes on the Olvidado ever get close to something that looks like the Cantabrian mountains. People who walked the mountain stages on the Olvidado must tell me if I'm wrong.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

@Juliana K Yeah I bought a new phone for this Camino and it was a good choice. Pictures turn out good in the sun! But as soon as it's cloudy they become less sharp. I took photos of Fuente Dé this morning but they all turned out gloomy.

 

[Juliana K]

@Juliana K Yeah I bought a new phone for this Camino and it was a good choice. Pictures turn out good in the sun! But as soon as it's cloudy they become less sharp. I took fotos of Fuente Dé this morning but they all turned out gloomy.

Then you are using iPhone as well? I am using iPhone 14 pro, but your photos are amazing. Maybe dependes on who use??

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Then you are using iPhone as well? I am using iPhone 14 pro, but your photos are amazing. Maybe dependes on who use??

No, I have a smartphone (Google). But as I bought it right before my trip to Spain I asked for a good camera function!

 

[peregrina2000]

So glad you had beautiful weather, BP!!!

I would go so far as to say that this day is the absolutely most glorious day of any camino I have walked. I was sorely tempted to stay for a few days in Fuente Dé to do some of the millions of day hikes that explore all of this area. There are sign boards all around that indicate some of the many trails. Walkers paradise, that’s for sure. Years ago, our family took the funicular up to the top and followed a couple of those trails, and I would say that yes, they were gobsmacking!

And to make things better in terms of ease of access, the path for this stage itself is totally graded and wide enough for a car to drive (this is because originally there was going to be a road put in from Fuente Dé to Puerto de Pandetrave) and the ascent itself is not steep. Those two things may not be a benefit for more hard core hikers, but it did mean you could just concentrate on the beauty all around you!

The Vadiniense is short compared to the Levante. Maybe you can squeeze in the Vadiniense at the end of the Levante (with a bit of travelling)?

In terms of making it longer, one option would be the Castellano-Lebaniego which starts in Palencia, intersects with the Olvidado at Cervera, and winds up at the monastery. And then continue on the Vadiniense.

 

[peregrina2000]

Those of you who have done both, how does this compare to the Olvidado? Is the latter even close to this scenic?

See my initial reaction in post # 34 above. Maybe a separate thread would be a good idea so we don’t interfere too much with the flow of BP’s wonderful posts!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

So glad you had beautiful weather, BP!!!

I would go so far as to say that this day is the absolutely most glorious day of any camino I have walked. I was sorely tempted to stay for a few days in Fuente Dé to do some of the millions of day hikes that explore all of this area. There are sign boards all around that indicate some of the many trails. Walkers paradise, that’s for sure. Years ago, our family took the funicular up to the top and followed a couple of those trails, and I would say that yes, they were gobsmacking!

And to make things better in terms of ease of access, the path for this stage itself is totally graded and wide enough for a car to drive (this is because originally there was going to be a road put in from Fuente Dé to Puerto de Pandetrave) and the ascent itself is not steep. Those two things may not be a benefit for more hard core hikers, but it did mean you could just concentrate on the beauty all around you!




In terms of making it longer, one option would be the Castellano-Lebaniego which starts in Palencia, intersects with the Olvidado at Cervera, and winds up at the monastery. And then continue on the Vadiniense.

The funicular sounded fun. But it wasn't open that early in the morning. I passed the station but I couldn't understand where it starts? Didn't see any cables! Maybe it was just the hut for selling tickets.

The trails in the area must be amazing. I've heard it's not possible to walk in winter though. The amount of snow must be crazy up there. There are fotos of the passes and the mountains in winter here in the bar. Looks beautiful but dangerous!

I was wondering why the road was so wide, now I know. It reminded me of the walk up to Monte do Faro (although this was much longer, of course). I mean: it seems hard when you check the elevation gain, but in reality it's not that strenuous.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

See my initial reaction in post # 34 above. Maybe a separate thread would be a good idea so we don’t interfere too much with the flow of BP’s wonderful posts!

Please interfere!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@Bad Pilgrim, I showed my 18 year old son your most recent photos. He was seriously impressed, to the extent that he even took the phone off me to look at them properly - a very rare event. It wasn't just the subject but the quality that he commented on ( he himself enjoys photography). And for the first time ever he even scrolled back through the thread to see your other pictures.
I think I need to take photography lessons from you....

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

@Bad Pilgrim, I showed my 18 year old son your most recent photos. He was seriously impressed, to the extent that he even took the phone off me to look at them properly - a very rare event. It wasn't just the subject but the quality that he commented on ( he himself enjoys photography). And for the first time ever he even scrolled back through the thread to see your other pictures.
I think I need to take photography lessons from you....

Wow, I'm glad if people like the photos! Thanks! I'm not a photographer and never worked with anything remotely close to it. I guess I owe it to my cellphone! And to the scenery itself, of course. You really can't go wrong with yesterday's stage. Then again, weather conditions can change rapidly on that altitude. I was lucky to have sunny weather, but boy was that wind strong at the mountain pass!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Dang! Such a short stage, so many mishappenings. Nothing serious though. I'm in the hostal in Riaño now, where somebody on Booking snatched my room at the same time as I made my reservation (two days ago), so there actually is no room for me! But I'm working on it.

 

[caminka]

Good luck with finding a room!

I've seen I lot of mountain scenery in my life, but this magnificent view impresses me every time.
I was here in 2012 on an outing with my hosts from Grado who saw me loitering around trying to find a bed and invited me to their home.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Good luck with finding a room!

I've seen I lot of mountain scenery in my life, but this magnificent view impresses me every time.
I was here in 2012 on an outing with my hosts from Grado who saw me loitering around trying to find a bed and invited me to their home.

I'm looking so scruffy and haggard by now that I don't think anyone in their right mind would invite me to their home. Probably only blind people. Luckily it just took me five minutes to find a room at the Hostal Sainz, next to the church and the ethnographic museum. It looks scarily fancy! But I managed to push down the price by 23 %. Hey, I'm a professional...

 

[LTfit]

I'll just chime in that your fotos have definately sold me on this Camino for next year

As Laurie suggested, maybe better to start a new thread but since you didn't do the mountain stages of the Olvidado I can assure you that they are spectacular! But I won't be able to compare until I do this route myself.

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow, I'm glad if people like the photos! Thanks! I'm not a photographer and never worked with anything remotely close to it. I guess I owe it to my cellphone!

This reminds me of something a very good friend of mine used to say. She took beautiful pictures. People would always say — these are beautiful pictures, what kind of camera did you use? One night at a dinner party, to turn the tables, she said — this is a great dinner, what kind of oven did you use?

Point is — it’s the composition and the lighting that make these so beautiful — you’re the only one controlling that, BP!!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 5: Portilla de la Reina - Riaño, 20 kms



Yesterday evening in Portilla I had a pleasant chat in the bar with the three pilgrims who stayed the day before in Espinama. (Not the ones on the photo above.) Not counting the 20 Spanish football fanatics in Espinama who obviously were not pilgrims. I bet they got lost in the Picos de Europa yesterday and will never find their way out again.

Another pilgrim of unknown origin, who didn't speak Spanish, appeared as well. Katrin the Belgian girl took him under her wings and they had dinner together in a corner, while Paolo and Max from Italy explained to me that they would catch the bus tomorrow. They couldn't find a place to stay in Riaño, next stage. I confidently chuckled and told them that I had managed to find a room in Hostal Tanis in Riaño. (Little did I know what lay in store for me.)

The morning started out on the country road. Gronze told me I would stay on asphalt all day. But after a few kms the Camino made a turn into a village. I walked about half of the day on a dirt road more or less parallel to the road.



The embalse (artificial lake) looked beautiful as I approached it so I chose to walk straight up to it on a dirt road, thinking that I would stay close to the country road anyway. The embalse looks like a postcard from the Alps, with a crystal clear lake in the foreground and pointy mountains as a backdrop. After a while the road I was walking on got surrounded by the lake on both sides, and then it plunged straight into the water in front of me. A road that, in my imagination, once led to one of the seven villages that were drowned to create the dam in 1987. Eerie!

I did some bushwhacking to get back to the asphalt and decided to stay on it the remaining kms to Riaño. Riaño does look like a postcard: the town is colorful, the lake is clear blue, the bridge that stretches over the water is impressive, and the mountains that encircle it all are even more beautiful than Fuente Dé, in my opinion. I'm almost ashamed to admit that a place that is the result of demolition and rational engineering resulted in something so enchanting.



Already at 11.30 I stomped into the hostal Tanis and demanded that my individual room be ready. The owner said he had been trying to reach me for two days: someone booked the room while I made the reservation on the phone so there was actually no room waiting for me. Oh well, after five minutes I had found another one in Hostal Sainz where the guy lowered the price from 65 to 50 euros when I said I was a pilgrim. Anyway, the owner at Tanis, white as a sheet, went out of his way to apologize to me for what had happened. I had a hard time convincing him that I wasn't mad at him at all. He treated me to this and that in the bar, we chatted about the Camino, and then I walked up to the church, the square and the ethnographic museum - now with a fantastic view over the lake - to Hostal Sainz.

Since the ethnographic museum was right next to the hostal I decided to check it out in the afternoon. Four storeys of history of the region of León and Riaño! It's the biggest ethnographic museum I've ever been to!! (But I've probably only been to two in my whole life.) There were prehistoric tools, handicraft, traditional clothes and sports, portraits of the kings and queens of León, and life-sized primitive huts and houses where you could actually go inside to have a look. The admission fee is 2 euros. Definitely worth a visit.



In La sala negra, The black room, there was heartbreaking information about the seven towns that were destroyed by the construction of the dam. It really got to me. Pictures of houses, old churches, farms that were demolished. The villagers struggled to prevent it but to no avail. Not only in this room, but all through the museum, there were photos of hundreds of buildings and people in those villages. Everything had been carefully documented by a photographer before the disaster, but those buildings don't exist anymore. All the while, I could see the clear blue water through the open windows as I walked through the rooms... I didn't look at the lake the same way as before when I left the museum.

Tomorrow: a whammy of 36 kms to Cistierna! I hope I get to keep my room this time. Hostal Moderno awaits me.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 6: Riaño - Cistierna, 36 kms

I left Hostal Sainz early in the morning since I had a long day ahead of me. It started on the grey, lonely bridge over the waters of the lake Riaño. Far out on the bridge it was dark, cold and windy... The drowned villages came to my mind again, and I imagined them below the surface.

The first kms were really boring. But at least the Camino leaves the asphalt from time to time and goes through some small villages. I also had nice views over the lake that followed me from Riaño. When I was approaching the dam and thought I would cross it on the road, I was surprised to turn away from it and instead move downhill to the river Esla. I followed the river in the quiet forest until the village of Las Salas. Peaceful and easy walking. The luscious trees also provided good protection from the sun. It would be 31 degrees C today. That is the highest I've had on the Vadiniense!



At Las Salas I crossed the bridge over the river and was back on asphalt again, because I didn't see any signs telling me to continue along the river. I stomped on the road among the cars and motorcyclists all the way to Crémenes, hungry for a second breakfast.



In Crémenes I understood I should have stayed on the path in the woods in Las Salas, because the calzada romana (an ancient roman road) starts there. I backtracked a few 100 mtrs to cross the bridge in Crémenes and hop on the Camino and the calzada. This was the best part of the day! The calzada rose gently among the hills. From the heights I could see the river and the country road far below, and cliffs with curious rock formations all around:



The other peculiar area of the day was the site with the abandoned mines a couple of kms before Cistierna. A whole industrial town, empty and crumbling, in the midst of harsh cliffs. Interesting and historically significant for the region, but not very beautiful:



I followed the disused railroad from the mining town into Cistierna and arrived in Hostal Moderno at half past 3. It turns out Hostal Moderno is not that... moderno. But for 25 euros I guess the room is ok. Last year in Cistierna (on the Camino Olvidado) I stayed in Hostal Cruce which was a little fancier, but also a bit more expensive. I also remember I got lost when I left Cistierna in the darkness last year. I'll have to walk the same way out of town tomorrow... I'll be damned if I make the same mistake again! I better study Gronze carefully this time.

Bye for now!

 

[VNwalking]

Just wow, BP.
Wow, wow, wow.
I've never seriously considered walking this camino because it seemed too challenging. So I'm very happy to see your amazing photos. And your words keep me on the edge of my seat until tomorrow. Just wonderful - gracias!!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Yes

Just wow, BP.
Wow, wow, wow.
I've never seriously considered walking this camino because it seemed too challenging. So I'm very happy to see your amazing photos. And your words keep me on the edge of my seat until tomorrow. Just wonderful - gracias!!

Yes but it is soon coming to an end, in Mansilla de las Mulas!

 

[VNwalking]

Wanna make that last bit more interesting?
Try this from Monasterio de San Miguel de Escalada - it includes a Visigothic stunner to start with, then a ruined monastery, then a cave monastery. Why take the short path near the road when you can do more bashing about in the sticks? Last chance!

 

[unadara]

BP thank you so much for this wonderful, informative report. I plan to follow this exact route end of Sep/Oct. I had been considering diverting off it due to some reports about various aspects/issues. You have resolved all those issues. Your photos of Riano are beautiful and I hope to do a small hilltop walk in addition there to get better views. I am a keen photographer and your images here are truly inspiring. (Hope I get the light).
I will do shorter stages. I hope to go up in the funicular. Some of the accommodations are closed the first week in October. I will report here. I intend to steer clear of asphalt and seek out the Monasteries towards the end. I look forward to re-reading these reports before I leave. Thanks again.

 

[unadara]

Wanna make that last bit more interesting?
Try this from Monasterio de San Miguel de Escalada - it includes a Visigothic stunner to start with, then a ruined monastery, then a cave monastery. Why take the short path near the road when you can do more bashing about in the sticks? Last chance!
View attachment 174831

Brilliant information, Thanks

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 7: Cistierna - Gradefes, 23 kms

I spent the afternoon in Cistierna planning and booking bus tickets and places to stay on my next Camino. I'll soon be in Mansilla de las Mulas on the Camino Francés, which I'm looking forward to. It's always nice to revisit different places on the Francés! Oversized backpacks, hippie resting areas and jolly Camino families as far as the eye can see. But I won't continue along the Francés. I have bigger fish to fry!

Sorry, but today's stage was the most boring on the Vadiniense until now. I didn't take a single picture. And even if I wanted to take photos I was too busy running from the mosquitos. The river is close, as well as several canals, which I think is a hotbed for those ungodly creatures. I tried to follow the Camino on the paths in the woods for the first kms from Cistierna, but I soon took to the asphalt to get away from the insects. The last part of the stage in to Gradefes was on a dirt road among the fields but the mosquitos stalked me there as well. And there was no bar or café where I could take shelter along the way.

I arrived in Gradefes at noon (32 degrees C), registered at the Ayuntamiento and got the key to the albergue municipal which is located a bit outside town (5 euros). I generally don't like albergues that are too far from the rest of the village; kind of The last house on the left. But I got Guardia Civil on the other side of the street. If teenage thugs are thinking about besieging the albergue tonight, they're gonna have to deal with the police! So I feel pretty safe. And I'm not alone since a Spanish peregrina just showed up. She says she hasn't met a single pilgrim since Potes! (But a lot of day hikers, of course.)

I went to check out the monastery Santa María de Real in the center of Gradefes. The church was open, but looked quite sterile on the inside...



Not sure how or when there are guided visits, but someone had scribbled on a door that the Oficina de Turismo opens at 5 o'clock. Supposedly one has to go there to get organized information about the monastery. As I've got zero other things to do in Gradefes I may visit the Oficina this evening. There are only two bars here, nowhere to buy food, no ethnographic museum, not even a laundromat! I wonder what I can do to spend my time here.

Tomorrow: Last stop! Mansilla de las Mulas.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Wanna make that last bit more interesting?
Try this from Monasterio de San Miguel de Escalada - it includes a Visigothic stunner to start with, then a ruined monastery, then a cave monastery. Why take the short path near the road when you can do more bashing about in the sticks? Last chance!
View attachment 174831

Ok, but how many more kms? I have a bus to catch in Mansilla (I'm not staying the night there). And does it come with mosquitos??

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

BP thank you so much for this wonderful, informative report. I plan to follow this exact route end of Sep/Oct. I had been considering diverting off it due to some reports about various aspects/issues. You have resolved all those issues. Your photos of Riano are beautiful and I hope to do a small hilltop walk in addition there to get better views. I am a keen photographer and your images here are truly inspiring. (Hope I get the light).
I will do shorter stages. I hope to go up in the funicular. Some of the accommodations are closed the first week in October. I will report here. I intend to steer clear of asphalt and seek out the Monasteries towards the end. I look forward to re-reading these reports before I leave. Thanks again.

Wow! Sounds perfect! I wish I could have taken that funicular - maybe next time. Autumn must be wonderful in the forested areas... Please report here and show us the photos!

 

[peregrina2000]

Ok, but how many more kms? I have a bus to catch in Mansilla (I'm not staying the night there). And does it come with mosquitos??

The church of San Miguel de la Escalada is .3 km detour off the route! The question will be whether you arrive at a time it’s open. If you spend the night in Gradefes, you will only be about 11 km from the church, which doesn’t open till 10:30 according to the tourism website of Castilla y León. As you undoubtedly know, Mansilla is a stone’s throw from León and buses run frequently (I see 8 buses for next Thursday for instance).

VN has mentioned the ruined monastery of San Pedro de Eslonza, though, which you will not pass unless you take the route that joins the Francés at Puente Villarente instead of Mansilla. And there seem to be more buses from Puente Villarente into León than from Mansilla, though both are very well connected. VN has also mentioned a cave monastery but I don’t know what she is referring to.

Gronze makes it very clear.

 

[AlanSykes]

The church of San Miguel de la Escalada is .3 km detour off the route!

It is an absolute belter: even if you only get to see the outside it's worth the short detour.

 

[peregrina2000]

It is an absolute belter: even if you only get to see the outside it's worth the short detour.

Usually I learn erudite words from @alansykes. Today I learned some British slang.

 

[VNwalking]

VN has mentioned the ruined monastery of San Pedro de Eslonza, though, which you will not pass unless you take the route that joins the Francés at Puente Villarente instead of Mansilla. And there seem to be more buses from Puente Villarente into León than from Mansilla, though both are very well connected. VN has also mentioned a cave monastery but I don’t know what she is referring to.

This:

Cuevas Menudas | Yacimientos arqueológicos CYL

There is also Lancia, the last holdout in Iberia against the Roman invasion.

Antigua Ciudad Astur-Romana de Lancia

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www.institutoleonesdecultura.es

For anyone on the Frances with a day to spare taking in these four sites would be a superb do-it-yourself (long) loop walk from Mansilla - or even better, from Villarente.

Gronze makes it very clear.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

You

The church of San Miguel de la Escalada is .3 km detour off the route! The question will be whether you arrive at a time it’s open. If you spend the night in Gradefes, you will only be about 11 km from the church, which doesn’t open till 10:30 according to the tourism website of Castilla y León. As you undoubtedly know, Mansilla is a stone’s throw from León and buses run frequently (I see 8 buses for next Thursday for instance).

VN has mentioned the ruined monastery of San Pedro de Eslonza, though, which you will not pass unless you take the route that joins the Francés at Puente Villarente instead of Mansilla. And there seem to be more buses from Puente Villarente into León than from Mansilla, though both are very well connected. VN has also mentioned a cave monastery but I don’t know what she is referring to.

Gronze makes it very clear.

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You're right, I arrived too early. I only saw the outside, as Alan depicted it above. Then I stuck to the official (boring) route.

Surprised to find a spacious café in Valle de Mansilla (200 mtrs off Camino), thus open before 10 in the morning... I thought. Normally they open at 10.30, they said. Gronze said there would be nothing before almost reaching Mansilla de las Mulas!

 

[LTfit]

Curious, what's in store for you after reaching Mansilla?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Curious, what's in store for you after reaching Mansilla?

I need a vacation !! So I will be walking the Invierno to Santiago. Hence the bus I take from Mansilla today, to León, and then to Ponferrada.

 

[LTfit]

I need a vacation !! So I will be walking the Invierno to Santiago. Hence the bus I take from Mansilla today, to León, and then to Ponferrada

You will probably find the Invierno much easier on your body, at least I did last year after having completed the Olvidado.

I'll be curious to hear how many pilgrims are walking the Invierno now. Beginning of last July I only met a handful until A Laxe where you join the Sanabrés. And if you're into unusual stamps be sure to stop in and see David in Lalín. He'll grace your credencial with three (!) and if you no longer have space he will add an extra page.

 

[peregrina2000]

I need a vacation !! So I will be walking the Invierno to Santiago. Hence the bus I take from Mansilla today, to León, and then to Ponferrada.

I hope you will continue to post, BP! The Invierno is familiar to many of us now, so we will enjoy it a lot.

BTW, I know you are a “stick to the official route” kind of guy. But just in case you’re interested in some variety, since this will be your fourth or fifth Invierno — There is a beautiful alternative from Ponferrada to Médulas. Ponferrada - Peñalba de Santiago (albergue) - Montes de Valdueza (monastery albergue) - Médulas. It goes through the area called Valle del Silencio. I have walked to Peñalba three times now and have to say it’s a beautiful walk - not majestic mountains like the Vadiniense, but beautiful. More info here.

But however you get there, please take us along on your Invierno!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 8: Gradefes - Mansilla de las Mulas, 23 kms

Yesterday I dozed off in the afternoon heat in the albergue. Unfortunately I arrived too late to the Oficina de turismo in the church. It would close in 20 minutes (7.30) so I guess a guided tour of the monastery wasn't on the table that late in the evening? I must admit I never asked. I was so disappointed over getting there late.

Through the doorway of the Oficina I could see parts of the inside of the monastery; the courtyard and the pillars. It looked really beautiful. At the same time, the nuns had gathered for vespers with a bunch of villagers in an annex to the church that looked a bit fancier than the part I saw yesterday (see post 66 above). But the gate was closed and they seemed to be in the middle of the ceremony so I didn't want to burst in. By the way, the nun who presided over the whole thing couldn't sing if her life depended on it. I escaped incognito through the portico amidst the coughs, croaks and false notes emanating from the speakers.

There was information in the albergue about a Centro de Día - retirement home - that would prepare take-away dinners to pilgrims. Vanesa the Spanish pilgrim and I went there in the early afternoon. We were shown a back door to the kitchen; the staff had our food ready in minutes. Dinner is 8 euros which Vanesa treated me to in the blink of an eye. Honestly it wasn't that good... Poor Abuela and her friends at the home. But hey, it was food. There is nowhere to buy stuff in Gradefes so we were thankful for what we got.



The Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas was much like the Camino yesterday. Country roads, dirt roads, canals. Since yesterday it had begun to look like the Camino Francés as I remember it before reaching León. I went to the monastery in San Miguel de Escalada but no signs of life early in the morning.



I sneaked off to a café in Valle de Mansilla, 200 mtrs off Camino, which was a good idea since Mesón El Gallo, praised by Gronze, would be closed later. When I passed the dam at the river Esla, I knew I was close to Mansilla de las Mulas.



The last part was a slog on asphalt in heavy traffic and increasing heat. I walked into Mansilla through the old gate Puerta de la Concepción and... the Vadiniense came to an end.



I saw pilgrims scattered in town; some of them moving towards the bus station on their way to new adventures. And that's where I am now, hoping to get on an earlier bus to Ponferrada than I first thought. I need a vacation! So I'll walk the Camino de Invierno, as usual, to Santiago. People will probably throw empty cans and rotten tomatoes at me when they recognize me along the way, but I don't care.

And this completes the Camino Vadiniense. I really liked this Camino. (Except the two last stages that are uninteresting landscape-wise. Although the villagers are super friendly.) I would definitely walk it again, in a slower pace and take time to explore more things in the area. It was a bummer to start out with almost 40 kms the first day because of full albergues: I should have planned it better. And I want to take the funicular in Fuente Dé! I'll certainly be back some day.

Thanks for following! See you next year!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

BP, thanks again for posting, I've really enjoyed the thread. You've certainly given me some food for thought. The biggest problem is that I'm now stuck on whether to do this, or the early part of the Olvidado.... . The photos in your post 39 (day 4) make that section seem unmissable. Mind you, I've seen lots of great photos from the Hospitales, but I had a misty day

Whilst disappointing for you, personally (selfishly) I'm almost glad that there were no particular highlights in the last two days, as if I do walk it I would likely turn off at Cistierna onto the Olvidado, thence to the Sanabres/ Primitivo)/Verde etc.

Incidentally, did you consider that as an option, or did you just want to do the Vadiniense in it's entirety ?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I'm now stuck on whether to do this, or the early part of the Olvidado

Hmm, both are good choices. But of course I would say that the first week on the Olvidado is less impressive than the Vadiniense. The Vadiniense is tougher, also. I would never have walked it as my first Camiño this year. I calculated that I needed to do both the Catalán and part of the Olvidado first in order to build stamina. But then again I am one meek pilgrim. Perhaps others can start right on the Vadiniense.

if I do walk it I would likely turn off at Cistierna onto the Olvidado, thence to the Sanabres/ Primitivo)/Verde etc.

Hm, yes, in my opinion you won't miss much after Cistierna. But there is the Ruta de los monasterios running in the area, as Laurie and VN pointed out in this thread. So there's that if you're really into monasteries.

Incidentally, did you consider that as an option, or did you just want to do the Vadiniense in it's entirety ?

I generally go for entire Caminos. My dissection of the Olvidado into two parts, in the wrong order, was more of an anomaly. But I've met many pilgrims who patch together the Olvidado, Vadiniense, or Salvador so it's really popular! It must be a great way to put several mountain stages together.

 

[peregrina2000]

See you next year!

Oh, no, BP, does this mean you’re not going to let us follow along on the Invierno? How will we know if the teenagers come to torment you in Quiroga???

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Oh, no, BP, does this mean you’re not going to let us follow along on the Invierno? How will we know if the teenagers come to torment you in Quiroga???

No, I won't do a new thread, since it's my vacation! No photos, no writing, using the mobile as little as possible... Sorry! But in case of extraordinary events I will let you know!

 

[unadara]

No, I won't do a new thread, since it's my vacation! No photos, no writing, using the mobile as little as possible... Sorry! But in case of extraordinary events I will let you know!

Thanks BP. Hopefully my slower pace and shorter days will be of interest to some Pilgrims here too. Enjoy your vacation. The Invierno is now on my list (I'd sworn off Caminos until this Years SS/Primitivo re-ignited my interest.)

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino on the Invierno, BP. I totally get it that you just want to walk. (No matter what we might think of that.... )

And well done on these last two. It's been such a joy to follow along. Gracias.