LIVE from the Camino New Hip on an "Old" Camino

[Camino Chrissy]

I'm also looking forward to seeing the new albergue in Oseira.

You will find the new Albergue in Oseira to be exceptionally nice, but I didn't do any laundry there, so can't comment on the stone basin.

 

[AlanSykes]

You will find the new Albergue in Oseira to be exceptionally nice

I seem to be one of the few people who really liked the old albergue at Oseira, a huge and rather beautiful tithe barn. Haven't stayed in the new one (yet - it was still shut for covid last time I walked the Sanabrés, in November 2021), but the 4 or 5 times I slept in the old one (mostly in late November and December) I was always the only person there, and the brother hospitalero (the artist Fray Luis de Oseira, chatty as every Trappist monk I've ever met) put me in the snug little cabin-like room on the left by the entrance.

 

[LTfit]

Day 10 July 5, 2024
Xunqueira de Ambía - Ourense 22.5 km

Last night at least until 19.30, there were only 3 of the in the albergue, the Spanish/Swedish couple I had met while walking and myself. At 19.30 when the hospitalera appeared to stamp our credentials an extremely scruffy man also entered the premises. The hospitalera was reluctant to sign him in but since he had a credential, there was no other option. When he left to go shopping the hospitalera told me to move to the dorm with the couple and that we should call the Guardia Civil if there is a problem. No incidents to report ,

I've been having an awful time sleeping and wake up constantly. By 4 a.m. I'm wide awake. So as not to disturb the others, I always pack up my backpack the night before and sneak out of the dorm by 5.30. I'm usually out the door by 6.15 and today was no different. Once again I had the whole Camino to myself.

After a few ups and downs the rest of the way was one long gradual downhill. How cool would it be on a bike! After 3.7 km in A Pousa (before 7 a.m.) and 8 km there were open cafés. I choose to wait till 15 km. At 19.5 km I finally saw the Peugeot dealership building which was the sign to take a left and follow the Paseo Fluvial into the city (you see the sign right after the turn). The path was almost 2 km long, first dirt then mostly of sand. At one point it becomes a harder surface (improvement?) and I had to cross over to the other side. The river is now on your right. I followed Alan's instructions and took it to the end. The Albergue de Peregrinos was in fact 700 meters from that point.

It was only about 10.00 when I arrived (the albergue opens at 13.00) so I wandered about town and treated myself to my first tostada con tomate y aceite . Simple pleasures.

While sitting at a café across from the albergue Ramón appeared, a pilgrim I met in Lubián and was also in A Gudiña. I hadn't seen him for 2 days since he took the Verín variation but then took a bus this morning to Ourense. Nice to see a friendly face. We shared a washing machine and dryer (second luxury of the day) and I joined him for lunch. I wasn't really hungry but had one of my favorites - pimientos de padrón. There were so many that I have enough for dinner too!

Ourense is quite a lovely city but it's known for its microclimate. It's warm, 35 degrees

The couple arrived later and since then three cyclists from Barcelona.

All is well. Tomorrow to Oseira and it's monastery.


Turn left here

Sign

Plaza Major

Albergue de Peregrinos. Great location! There are many floors and many stairs but there is a lift if necessary.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I seem to be one of the few people who really liked the old albergue at Oseira, a huge and rather beautiful tithe barn.

I love old monasteries and would have been interested in staying in the old one, but never had opportunity. When I'd heard the old albergue was "no longer" and had been replaced with a new building, I was disappointed. At least I got to take a tour of the monastery and go to vespers.

 

[VNwalking]

pimientos de padrón. There were so many that I have enough for dinner too!

That would never happen to me. When if I get around to walking the Sanabrés I'll have to make sure to check out where you got 'too many' pimentos.

Really enjoying your posts, Lee. Sounds like a nice option to enter Ourense, and I hope the leaving is on the nicer route, too. (May you enjoy the monastery!)

 

[LTfit]

I seem to be one of the few people who really liked the old albergue at Oseira, a huge and rather beautiful tithe barn. Haven't stayed in the new one (yet - it was still shut for covid last time I walked the Sanabrés, in November 2021), but the 4 or 5 times I slept in the old one (mostly in late November and December) I was always the only person there, and the brother hospitalero (the artist Fray Luis de Oseira, chatty as every Trappist monk I've ever met) put me in the snug little cabin-like room on the left by the entrance.

I still have the little painting of Jesús that Fray Luis gave out to all the pilgrims taking the tour of the monastery. Does he still do that?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I still have the little painting of Jesús that Fray Luis gave out to all the pilgrims taking the tour of the monastery. Does he still do that?

We assembled in the "store" where they sold beer, honey, etc. to pay for the monastery tour in May 2024. There were about eight of us gathered and unfortunately we were never offered any paintings.

 

[LTfit]

We assembled in the "store" where they sold beer, honey, etc. to pay for the monastery tour in May 2024. There were about eight of us gathered and unfortunately we were never offered any paintings.

This was in 2013.

 

[Wendy Werneth]

I edited my post. He is the editor, not the author.

I wasn't familiar with him by name, but I do know about the encyclopedia. It seems he founded the publishing company that published it. What an honour for you to meet him, and right in front of the house where he was born and grew up!

I wonder if it's strange for him to see that plaque with his own face every day. I always imagined that those types of plaques were erected only after the person had died.

 

[LTfit]

I wonder if it's strange for him to see that plaque with his own face every day. I always imagined that those types of plaques were erected only after the person had died.

I thought the exact same thing!

 

[LTfit]

Day 11 July 6, 2024
Ourense - Cea - Oseira 31 km

The location of the albergue is excellent but not for a restful night. Of course it didn't help that it was Friday night nor that Spain was playing against Germany and won. Across from the albergue there is also a bar. Add this up plus the fact that it was still 29 degrees at 21.00 equals a very disturbed sleep. It was so loud in the street that someone closed the windows in the middle of the night.

Good news was that Alberto and Eva from Barcelona arrived unexpectedly in the afternoon. I heard someone say "Señora Lee!" and there they were. We meet on my day 2 in Tábara and were together in Rionegro for that wonderful meal. For the past week they have been a stage behind me and due to the heat took the bus to Ourense where they will stay for a few days. Our reunion was therefore short.

Determined to leave early, I prepared everything in advance and was out by 5.50. I wanted to do the long incline in the early morning. I felt strong and so I didn't stop for coffee until Cea after 22 km. As the town is famous for its bread I of course had to have a tostada con tomate y aceite, this time served with a whole tomato! The place was hopping! Everyone came in for breakfast. It was an eclectic place and actually looked like a second hand store, every inch covered with paraphernalia.

The last 8.5 km were mainly through a wooded area, paths with large stones which Galicia is famous for. It didn't look like many used the route as I had to crawl a few times under tree branches. It was another climb. My Garmin by now said that the accumulated altitude change was more than 800 meters. A good days work.

The weather has changed considerably. Most of the day was a cool 17-20 degrees and we even got a few sprinkles. Great walking weather. What a change in one day!

The albergue is quite modern and has been build very discreetly behind the monastery so out of sight to visitors. I of course had to see the old one and its stone basin. One other pilgrim - again new - was here when I arrived and about an hour later Ramón strolled in. He had taken the road from Cea rather than following the Camino.

It's now almost 17.00 and no other pilgrims have arrived, just the 3 of us.

The surroundings have changed a bit, the only previous bar has closed and there is now a new restaurant/bar which I assume caters to tourists, definitely not pilgrims with their Menu del Día for €25! They even refuse to make a bocadillo ("I didn't study to do that") and have their diplomas from the University of Santiago hanging on the wall!

Monastery tours are still given but I've done that twice so I'll wait for vespers at 19.15.And the friendly Fray Luis, the painter and quite the talker is now in Palencia.

Will post pictures later (using the bar wifi).

 

[LTfit]

And you keep climbing

Incredible clouds



Cea

 

[LTfit]

The old albergue

Where we washed our clothes


The choir before Vespers

The old and the new

 

[Sue127]

Love the photos

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The surroundings have changed a bit, the only previous bar has closed and there is now a new restaurant/bar which I assume caters to tourists, definitely not pilgrims with their Menu del Día for €25! They even refuse to make a bocadillo ("I didn't study to do that") and have their diplomas from the University of Santiago hanging on the wall!

I really enjoyed that bar. We arrived on a warm, sunny afternoon and had a glass of white wine outside the bar. We made a reservation for dinner at 8:30pm as the owner has only a few tables inside and we knew it would be getting chilly by then so we returned after vespers. We opted for the €25 splurge on dinner and it was wonderful! Each course was special and quite different than what we had usually been eating elsewhere on the Sanabres.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Love the photos

Me, too, and all of her photos bring back my own very recent memories.
Cea was a nice surprise with its upscale looking renovated main street and beautiful town square with the tall tower clock surrounded by many lovely flowers.


We stayed overnight at "Casa Manoso" in town as 22km was enough for me in a day. It is an Old World looking, classy renovated property and our ensuite room also had a sitting area. We had breakfast the next morning at the same quirky, kitchy bar as @LTfit had stopped at. I really liked the clever bottles turned into light fixtures hanging from the ceiling in her picture.

 

[Sue127]

Me, too, and all of her photos bring back my own very recent memories.
Cea was a nice surprise with its upscale looking renovated main street and beautiful town square with the tall tower clock surrounded by many lovely flowers.
View attachment 173987

We stayed overnight at "Casa Manoso" in town as 22km was enough for me in a day. It is an Old World looking, classy renovated property and our ensuite room also had a sitting area. We had breakfast the next morning at the same quirky, kitchy bar as @LTfit had stopped at. I really liked the clever bottles turned into light fixtures hanging from the ceiling in her picture.
View attachment 173986

I, at some stage, want to continue the Mozarabe (I only got as far as Cordoba) and then onto VdP, so am following with interest.

 

[LTfit]

Day 12 July 7, 2024
Oseira - Castro Dozón - Silleda 40+ km

Given the kilometers I was going to cover today I decided to leave earlier than normal. Bad idea. I left at 5.30 but the terrain was quite rocky and steep in sections so it was not ideal even though I had a head lamp. In fact I went much slower due to poor visibility . Oh well.

It was cold this morning - only 8 degrees. It didn't start to warm up until about 9.30 when the sun came out through the mist. Hence very few pictures were taken and the ones I did are about 5 hours apart.

During the 40+ km I walked today there was not one café open, the 2 in Castro Dozón after 12 km were closed. The Taberna/bar in Botos after 22 km closed, the bar along the highway after A Laxe? Guessed right, also closed. It was not until my arrival in Silleda that I sat down to eat and drink something. By this time I needed something stronger than a coffee so I had my traditional after a stage drink: a clara (mix beer with lemon fanta). They served potato chips and nuts with it. I think it took me all of 10 minutes to eat everything up!

After about 2 hours Ramón arrived. The poor thing made a wrong turn taking him in the wrong direction. In the end he walked 30 km, 24 km (or double) to get to Castro Dozón . From there he took a bus to Silleda. He had had enough.

Today I passed 5 pilgrims, a first! The first was a young Spanish guy who had also stayed in Oseira but in the lodging in the monastery ( minimum stay 2 nights, max 7). He had left at 4.30.

As it's Sunday the only place to get a few supplies for tomorrow was a Repsol gas station. Supermarkets don't open on Sundays.

I will turn in soon. Having had no decent rest breaks with coffee made for a difficult day. Tomorrow looks better in that respect.







Potato chips never tasted so good!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

the terrain was quite rocky and steep in sections so it was not ideal even though I had a head lamp. In fact I went much slower due to poor visibility . Oh well.

Leaving Oseira, that rocky steep uphill often in a rather wet stream bed had me going much slower than my usual slow speed as I didn't want to slip and possibly break a limb, even with good visibility. Once it "ironed out" quite a bit later, we stopped for a drink and home-made tortilla filled with veggies on the way to Castro Dozon. I "think" the albergue there may have re-opened, but we'd made a reservation in Botos a couple of months earlier and was happy to end our day there at "A Taberna de Vento Hostel" after walking 21 km. We had a lovely room in their building next door and the dinner was excellent. In fact, they asked us what we'd wanted to eat without any menus, so it was "custom made" with our input. A younger waitress translated for us to the owner lady/cook. They were kind, attentive and treated us very well.
@LTfit, your new hip is totally amazing. I often broke your single stage in half, taking two days!

 

[VNwalking]

So, Lee are you going to make it from there to Santiago in one go? I wouldn't put it past you...moving right along as you are.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

So, Lee are you going to make it from there to Santiago in one go? I wouldn't put it past you...moving right along as you are.

If she ever needs a second new hip she will have super bionic legs and increase her daily kilometers to 50+ total each day!

 

[LTfit]

So, Lee are you going to make it from there to Santiago in one go? I wouldn't put it past you...moving right along as you are.

You'll just have to wait and see

 

[LTfit]

Leaving Oseira, that rocky steep uphill often in a rather wet stream bed had me going much slower than my usual slow speed as I didn't want to slip and possibly break a limb, even with good visibility. Once it "ironed out" quite a bit later, we stopped for a drink and home-made tortilla filled with veggies on the way to Castro Dozon. I "think" the albergue there may have re-opened,

Nope. Closed. It looked like a ghost town when I went through at about 8.30.

but we'd made a reservation in Botos a couple of months earlier and was happy to end our day there at "A Taberna de Vento Hostel" after walking 21 km.

I was hoping for a coffee in Botos (I recognized the place from years ago) but it was closed. In front of the door to the bar section there was a pail and mop and in the entry to the hostal there were key boxes which made it look uninviting.

We had a lovely room in their building next door and the dinner was excellent. In fact, they asked us what we'd wanted to eat without any menus, so it was "custom made" with our input. A younger waitress translated for us to the owner lady/cook. They were kind, attentive and treated us very well.

Glad you had a nice stay there.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

in the entry to the hostal there were key boxes which made it look uninviting.

It seems codes with key boxes are on the rise for private accomodations along the Caminos in more recent years, and I do have mixed feelings about them. On the one-hand, you let yourself in when you arrive, which is often more convenient than waiting around for the owner to show up, but lacks the personal touch of someone to greet you, hopefully with a smile and a few instructions.

 

[LTfit]

Day 13 July 8, 2024
Silleda - Santiago 40+ km

Arrived in Santiago in one piece without complaints . The weather was perfect for walking, cloudy and a cool 19 degrees. The city and Cathedral are very busy, lots of groups arriving in Santiago.

The day flew by, I left by 6.00 and arrived by 14.00 after making a coffee and rest stop in Bandeira after 7 km and in Ponte Ulla after 22 km. What a difference with yesterday! I guess that I was on a roll and although the distance was long, it didn't feel that way at all.

I did the traditional steps after arriving: after paying a visit to the Cathedral I went to the Pilgrims Office for my Compostela, visited the volunteers at the Dutch welcome center then checked into my hostel. In the evening at 19.15 I went to mass then to dinner with Ramón who has shared the Sanabrés with me over the past week. He goes home to Vigo tomorrow and I'm off to Finisterre.

The weather has taken a turn for the worse - it's raining now. I sure hope that I won't have rain during the next 3 days while walking to Finisterre which is on the coast and about 85 km from Santiago.

More details tomorrow. Now going to see if I can get some sleep.


Watching San Fermín during my coffee break


A group of Spanish teenagers who weren't very enthusiastic about walking.

The long downhill into Ponte Ulla. I now know why I didn't remember it from last year, it's because I jog down. Did so again today. It took me exactly 14 minutes to arrive at the bridge.

 

[LTfit]

View from my hostel room window around the corner from the Cathedral. I arrived 3 days early so too late to book San Martín Pinario. I'll be staying there when I come back from Finisterre.

 

[VNwalking]

Why am I not surprised?
Well done, Lee, well done.

The long downhill into Ponte Ulla. I now know why I didn't remember it from last year, it's because I jog down. Did so again today. It took me exactly 14 minutes to arrive at the bridge.

Ummmmm. With your pack? That's a mighty good hip they gave you! So great. (My ankle would be screaming . )

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The long downhill into Ponte Ulla. I now know why I didn't remember it from last year, it's because I jog down. Did so again today. It took me exactly 14 minutes to arrive at the bridge.

I guess I should have jogged zigzagging down that long hill, instead of just walking very fast letting gravity pull me since I injured my knee by the time I was at the bottom...ouch.

 

[Sue127]

Wow, I'm amazed at your stamina and how brilliant your hip is. Your deserve lovely weather for Finisterre

 

[LTfit]

I guess I should have jogged zigzagging down that long hill, instead of just walking very fast letting gravity pull me since I injured my knee by the time I was at the bottom...ouch.

The trick, at least for me, is to bend my knees as I'm sitting. Apparently this takes the load and shock off the knees. When I can I also zigzag.

My experience is that it's harder on the knees walking fast downhill. My leg muscles also appreciate the change in pace. I'm been doing this on downhills for the past few years but of course didn't know if it would be possible with the new hip. So far so good

 

[LTfit]

Why am I not surprised?
Well done, Lee, well done.


Ummmmm. With your pack? That's a mighty good hip they gave you! So great. (My ankle would be screaming . )

My backpack is only 30 liters and quite light. I actually bought it because it remains closer to my body than my previous 36 liter Osprey with a external back. It would sway back and forth when jogging downhill.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

My backpack is only 30 liters and quite light. I actually bought it because it remains closer to my body than my previous 36 liter Osprey with a external back. It would sway back and forth when jogging downhill.

I have a 36 liter Osprey Sirrus with an external back. It is 7 years old, very robust and quite heavy. I've never jogged wearing it, but I have considered replacing it with a lighter weight model; something to consider.

 

[peregrina2000]

Day 13 July 8, 2024
Silleda - Santiago 40+ km

Why am I not surprised that the original idea about shorter stages was not going to make it past day 1! And now you can head out to the coast with those extra days. Just be sure not to find any stray dogs that tempt you with their wagging tail and sweet eyes.

 

[LTfit]

Why am I not surprised that the original idea about shorter stages was not going to make it past day 1! And now you can head out to the coast with those extra days. Just be sure not to find any stray dogs that tempt you with their wagging tail and sweet eyes.

And you know all about that!

 

[LTfit]

Day 14 July 9, 2024
Santiago - Negreira - Vilaserio - Santa Mariña 41.3 km
(Gronze maps, according to my Garmin up till now 44 km)
1,134 meters total ascent

It had rained in the night but it was dry when I left at 6.30. Between Santiago and Negreira, 20 km on, I passed 12 pilgrims, something which has not happened yet just because I haven't seen so many on the Sanabrés. Some must have started really early.

It was quite misty and I had to take out my poncho once due to a constant drizzle but it cleared up by Negreira where I had a long coffee break and did some shopping as there will be no stores until tomorrow afternoon in Cee.

Between Negreira and Santa Mariña I saw no one until right before I arrived in the albergue. Most pilgrims stay in Negreira and those who I have met here in Santa Mariña left Santiago yesterday.

The weather was shitty during the last 15-20 km, 4 hours of straight . At one point you just don't care anymore, everything is wet even though you have a poncho on and your backpack a rain cover (which was useless).

There is quite a group in the albergue now: 2 Dutch woman, 2 Belgian women from Antwerp, a Polish man, 2 French and 4 Spanish woman. Luckily I'm the only one with no one above me in the bunk bed .

Weather forecast is not ideal for the next 2 days but I'll deal with that as it comes.

All is well. No blisters and my hip is behaving well.


6.30 this morning


Yesterday 10% grade downhill, today uphill.



Casa Pepa, Santa Mariña

 

[Camino Chrissy]

At one point you just don't care anymore, everything is wet even though you have a poncho on and your backpack a rain cover (which was useless).

May I ask what brand of poncho do you have? I am surprised your backpack gets wet underneath a poncho, in addition to the cover, which usually at least helps. I line my pack with a very sturdy white trash compactor bag, so no worries, even if my pack gets a bit wet eventually as it is exposed since I use a rain jacket.

 

[LTfit]

May I ask what brand of poncho do you have? I am surprised your backpack gets wet underneath a poncho, in addition to the cover, which usually at least helps. I line my pack with a very sturdy white trash compactor bag, so no worries, even if my pack gets a bit wet eventually as it is exposed since I use a rain jacket.

The poncho I'm using now is of China Bazaar quality. I took it because it's light and compact plus I was afraid that my good one with sleeves would be much too warm in the summer. The poncho was between my backpack and me, not over the pack since I thought my backpack cover would be sufficient.

My Osprey doesn't have its own rain cover so I bought a Decathlon one which has worked in the past. This time not so well and it collected water at the bottom. It's dry now so Im crossing my fingers for tomorrow.

Casa Pepa has a washer and dryer so I threw everything in as my clothes would not have been dry by the morning if I had hand washed them. Shoes are stuffed with newspapers (already changed once) so I'm all set for tomorrow.

 

[VNwalking]

This time not so well and it collected water at the bottom

Grf. No fun. May your weather be much better!

 

[LTfit]

Day 15 July 10, 2024
Santa Mariña - Cee - Corcubión 33+ km

Out the door by 6.15 with backpack cover and poncho on. It started off as a light drizzle but within an hour it turned to rain. Every once in a while it stopped for a minute or two but in the end it rained almost continuously till I entered Cee. The worst part was the long stretch of 12 km after Hospital where the wind picked up and caused all the colorful ponchos to fly about. It was hard to see through my glasses with all the rain so I had to be careful during the rocky ascents and descents.

There were many, many groups today, most had stayed over in Olveiroa where I had my one and only coffee break. I have no idea how many people I passed but it looked like a train at first but then petered out to the occasional one or two.

I reached Cee on the Costa da Morte shortly after noon but the donativo albergue run by volunteers in Corcubión 2 km on only opens at 16.00. Since it was now dry I wandered about town and had another coffee and later on lunch. Unfortunately the mist was thick causing poor visibility for pictures. By 15.30 I was ready to finish the last walk up towards Corcubión. I was still too early but took my chances and knocked on the door. I'm so glad the hospitaleras (2 sisters) let me in because within 30 minutes it started to rain cats and dogs and hasn't let up since!

I'm the only one in the albergue but it was nice to chat with fellow hospitaleras and compare notes. One lives in Madrid and the other in Valencia. They made a delicious lentil dish and salad for dinner and will leave out breakfast fixings for me as they only serve breakfast at 8.00. Although it's only a short hop, skip and jump to Finisterre tomorrow I'm always awake by 5.30 (that darn internal clock).

Few pictures due to the inclement weather.

 

[LTfit]

My walk from Cee to Corcubión

 

[geraldkelly]

Now after completing the stage, I read in Gronze that there is a path along the river. I just followed the arrows and an app I have (the one of Antonio Retamosa and Gerald Kelly). If @wisepilgrim or @geraldkelly know something about this stage please let me know. Oh well. A hot shower and a clara made me feel better.

Hi, and sorry for the delay replying. I haven't been on here much recently.

I presume you're talking about the route from Requejo up to the pass which has been subject to disruption due to AVE works?

There was another discussion a while ago about this and I replied in detail there. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-from-requejo-to-padornelo.85680/post-1235395

 

[LTfit]

Day 16 July 11, 2024
Corcubión - Finisterre - Cabo de Finisterre - Finisterre 16.8 km

Sleepless night due to a relentless mosquito attacking me . As I was the only one in the albergue there was no one else to attack.

After 2 coffees I was off to Finisterre. I flew there in record time then made the traditional walk up to the final mojón (km marker) with 0.00 km. The whole walk was in drizzle and mist. I knew that the sea was on my left and could hear and smell it but see it? No way. It was only when I was close to the beach that it came into view. Unfortunate as it is such a spectacular walk in good weather.

When at the lighthouse a French woman who had walked from home (Saintes!) following the Tours route asked if I could take her picture at the mojón. In 2010 when I first walked to Finisterre there was a French man who had also walked from home and asked me to take his picture. We both arrived in Finisterre on July 25th, the feast day of Santiago or St. James (Patron saint of Spain). His name was...Jacques, you just can't make this sort of thing up.

Due to the poor weather forecast I'll hop on a bus back to Santiago later this morning. I still have a few days to spend in Santiago including my birthday.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Congratulations! Shame it’s finished in the mist, fortunately not your first time there. Really appreciate the effort you’ve put into this thread.
Have a wonderful birthday

 

[chook]

Have thoroughly enjoyed following your progress, whets the appetite for when I leave Zamora in October with my two new knees, many thanks!

 

[LTfit]

Have thoroughly enjoyed following your progress, whets the appetite for when I leave Zamora in October with my two new knees, many thanks!

Good for you! The Sanabrés in October should be lovely

I'll write up a final post from Santiago later today or tomorrow before I leave.

 

[CarolamS]

Another thoroughly enjoyable report. I hope to walk the Sanabrés, starting from Salamanca, towards the end of September. Did you book accommodation ahead? Are there places where it's a good idea to book?

 

[LTfit]

Another thoroughly enjoyable report. I hope to walk the Sanabrés, starting from Salamanca, towards the end of September. Did you book accommodation ahead? Are there places where it's a good idea to book?

I never booked as I always stayed in municipal albergues. There are so few walking that it's really not necessary in the summer or fall, at least in my experience.

The fall is again a wonderful time to walk. We roasted chestnuts the last time I walked the route in the fall.

p.s. there was one exception! If wanting to stay in Puebla de Sanabria you will need to book because the albergue has closed and the town is quite a tourist spot

 

[peregrina2000]

If wanting to stay in Puebla de Sanabria you will need to book because the albergue has closed

Gronze says this is a temporary closure, do you have any more info?

 

[LTfit]

Gronze says this is a temporary closure, do you have any more info?

From what I've heard, it's been closed for a few years, at least a Polish pilgrim said that it was also closed 2 years ago. A pity, I've stayed in Casa Luz twice on previous Caminos.

 

[LTfit]

Hi all,

I'll be closing off this thread by making a few last comments which reflect on how I experienced the last stages of the Plata and the Sanabrés compared to my previous times walking the same route.

Firstly, it's still a wonderful Camino to walk in spite of the changes due to the construction of the AVE. The terrain is quite varied so there is something for everyone. My personal favorite was from Lubián to A Gudiña and not my previous favorite to Lubián due to changes caused by the AVE construction (walking along the N-525 in parts and concrete slabs for trucks I assume).

Secondly, there were fewer pilgrims than in previous years although the time of year was the same in two of the Caminos. We were never more than 7 (in A Gudiña) and that included cyclists. Usually there were about 4-5 walking. The make-up was also different. Except for one Spanish man from Lubián on, I never saw the same pilgrims. Every night I met new pilgrims whom I would never see again, the exception being 2 Catalan women I met in Xunqueira then again in Santiago after I had walked to Finisterre and back.And only once did I see a pilgrim while walking and that was because he left the albergue about an hour before I did.

Whereas in previous years a small group of 4 or 5 pilgrims walked the same stages as I did creating a nice group - NOT a Camino family (I cringe at that term), this year's pilgrims were walking much shorter stages. Was this due to more accommodation choices or just the make-up of those walking? I believe the later. And take this as an observation rather than a judgement or criticism. Ramón, the gentleman who shared stages with me from Lubián to Santiago was disappointed in this respect. I wasn't but that's because I start each Camino without expecting anything more than walking, eating, sleeping and washing my clothes when necessary .

This Camino was essentially a test for my hip and I'm pleased how my body reacted to the stress of walking combined with the varied terrain. I can now look forward to planning a completely new Camino for next year.

Thank you all for joining me along this Camino and happy planning your next one.

Ultreia

 

[JanosB]

Day 10 July 5, 2024
Xunqueira de Ambía - Ourense 22.5 km

Last night at least until 19.30, there were only 3 of the in the albergue, the Spanish/Swedish couple I had met while walking and myself. At 19.30 when the hospitalera appeared to stamp our credentials an extremely scruffy man also entered the premises. The hospitalera was reluctant to sign him in but since he had a credential, there was no other option. When he left to go shopping the hospitalera told me to move to the dorm with the couple and that we should call the Guardia Civil if there is a problem. No incidents to report ,

I've been having an awful time sleeping and wake up constantly. By 4 a.m. I'm wide awake. So as not to disturb the others, I always pack up my backpack the night before and sneak out of the dorm by 5.30. I'm usually out the door by 6.15 and today was no different. Once again I had the whole Camino to myself.

After a few ups and downs the rest of the way was one long gradual downhill. How cool would it be on a bike! After 3.7 km in A Pousa (before 7 a.m.) and 8 km there were open cafés. I choose to wait till 15 km. At 19.5 km I finally saw the Peugeot dealership building which was the sign to take a left and follow the Paseo Fluvial into the city (you see the sign right after the turn). The path was almost 2 km long, first dirt then mostly of sand. At one point it becomes a harder surface (improvement?) and I had to cross over to the other side. The river is now on your right. I followed Alan's instructions and took it to the end. The Albergue de Peregrinos was in fact 700 meters from that point.

It was only about 10.00 when I arrived (the albergue opens at 13.00) so I wandered about town and treated myself to my first tostada con tomate y aceite . Simple pleasures.

While sitting at a café across from the albergue Ramón appeared, a pilgrim I met in Lubián and was also in A Gudiña. I hadn't seen him for 2 days since he took the Verín variation but then took a bus this morning to Ourense. Nice to see a friendly face. We shared a washing machine and dryer (second luxury of the day) and I joined him for lunch. I wasn't really hungry but had one of my favorites - pimientos de padrón. There were so many that I have enough for dinner too!

Ourense is quite a lovely city but it's known for its microclimate. It's warm, 35 degrees

The couple arrived later and since then three cyclists from Barcelona.

All is well. Tomorrow to Oseira and it's monastery.

View attachment 173853View attachment 173854View attachment 173855View attachment 173856
Turn left here
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Sign
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Plaza Major
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Albergue de Peregrinos. Great location! There are many floors and many stairs but there is a lift if necessary.

I'll take it as good advice: "I always pack up my backpack the night before". Thanks!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi @LTfit , I really enjoyed reading your summary of the Sanabres after having walked it this past spring myself. I experienced a couple of differences; maybe useful in addition to your comments for anyone considering this Camino. We only stayed in two municipal albergues; in Requejo there were 6 pilgrims, and in Oseira there were 20ish. Other lodgings are available for anyone wanting to walk occasional shorter stages and the majority were easy to pre-book.

We only encountered a few people while walking the Sanabres except shortly after leaving Puebla de Sanabria, where a group of about 10 passed us up. They walked together, with small daypacks and matching ponchos as it was misting. I assumed they were on a pre-packaged tour and we never saw them again.

I did not walk this Camino before the AVE was built, but I really enjoyed the stages as I have no comparison with the past as you have had.

For me, I was on the N-525 for only one small stretch and didn't mind it all as the scenery was very pretty, and peaceful since the nearby interstate obviously has taken on most of the traffic. I'm not sure why there are varying experiences regarding the N-525.

Good on you for such remarkable distances walked each day with your new hip. I will look forward to your next "Live on the Camino" posts when you decide what your next one will be. You probably have a few ideas up your sleeve already!

 

[Theatregal]

I start each Camino without expecting anything more than walking, eating, sleeping and washing my clothes when necessary

Yes! The bedrock that will carry you far and well

Thank you Lee! I've enjoyed following along with your words & photos - inspiring all along the way to hear that your new hip carried you well!!

 

[JanosB]

Hi all,

I'll be closing off this thread by making a few last comments which reflect on how I experienced the last stages of the Plata and the Sanabrés compared to my previous times walking the same route.

Firstly, it's still a wonderful Camino to walk in spite of the changes due to the construction of the AVE. The terrain is quite varied so there is something for everyone. My personal favorite was from Lubián to A Gudiña and not my previous favorite to Lubián due to changes caused by the AVE construction (walking along the N-525 in parts and concrete slabs for trucks I assume).

Secondly, there were fewer pilgrims than in previous years although the time of year was the same in two of the Caminos. We were never more than 7 (in A Gudiña) and that included cyclists. Usually there were about 4-5 walking. The make-up was also different. Except for one Spanish man from Lubián on, I never saw the same pilgrims. Every night I met new pilgrims whom I would never see again, the exception being 2 Catalan women I met in Xunqueira then again in Santiago after I had walked to Finisterre and back.And only once did I see a pilgrim while walking and that was because he left the albergue about an hour before I did.

Whereas in previous years a small group of 4 or 5 pilgrims walked the same stages as I did creating a nice group - NOT a Camino family (I cringe at that term), this year's pilgrims were walking much shorter stages. Was this due to more accommodation choices or just the make-up of those walking? I believe the later. And take this as an observation rather than a judgement or criticism. Ramón, the gentleman who shared stages with me from Lubián to Santiago was disappointed in this respect. I wasn't but that's because I start each Camino without expecting anything more than walking, eating, sleeping and washing my clothes when necessary .

This Camino was essentially a test for my hip and I'm pleased how my body reacted to the stress of walking combined with the varied terrain. I can now look forward to planning a completely new Camino for next year.

Thank you all for joining me along this Camino and happy planning your next one.

Ultreia

Now I've finished my notes based on your valuable daily reports and enjoyed your excellent pictures. Thanks for your support and wishing you good health and more exiting caminos.

 

[Masou]

Buen camino